Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers

I found this small hydraulic hammer abandoned in a field, can anyone identify it? Is it worth picking up to refurbish?

https://archive.org/details/SearsRoebuckAndCoMachinery1911/mode/2up Page 23 Novelty Iron Works???

I built my first treadle hammer last week and thought I'd share with the class so to speak. Does hit as hard as I'd like but it's better than nothing. Don't mind the crappy welding, if anyone has any thoughts or ways to improve please let me know. It's based off of "Big Dog Forge"s design. Has a 90lb spring, 10 or 12 lb. Sledge head as the hammer and another as the "anvil".

I have access to some 4140 and a2 pieces big enough to machine dies out of. What are your thoughts on these steels? The owner wants 15 cents a lb (scrap pricing).

Opinions please.. Getting ready to spend on the anvil for the tire hammer. Since hot rolled 1018 is cheaper than cold, my question is whether the increased tensile strength, brinell hardness, etc. of cold-rolled is worth the extra cost for the role of this part. Does it matter? It's a spendy chunk of steel and don't want to throw $ away on specs I don't need.

I have a chance of buying a Star 50lb for $1500. It looks great (sorry, no pics) and runs well. Except it doesn't have the correct dies. The top and bottom dies look to be 6" x 3". But they are not aligned directly with each other and only about 3" of each die hit. The top die is towards the center, but the bottom die is somehow shifted to the left. if I cannot get the correct dies, I don't see how the hammer will be worth the money. Anyone have spare dies for this hammer? Yes, I am still working on my Mayer 25lb, but this kind of dropped into my lap yesterday.

I had a bit of a problem today and got a big gotcha from the 250. With power hammer tools you have to be aware of where your tools are and where the hammer is going to push them. Sometimes it is not what you expect. I was punching eyes in some hot cuts today and when edging a tool to knock the punch out, got my right index finger in between the tool handle and hammers anvil. I got a smear of grease and bruised finger, but that could have been much worse. Tool handles should have a decent amount of spring or give, be always aware of where your fingers are, and never put fingers through the loop! Stay safe everybody...

Have a small shop and was considering a treadle hammer that would attach to a wall post and be used on my working anvil (300lb) rather than having its own anvil separately. I was considering a treadle hammer design which could swing up out of the way when not in use to free up the anvil for hand work. I would love to hear ideas and comments from people if this is a good idea, or is it may actually damage the anvil if used in this way, or really if there would be some other downside to this set up Im not seeing. I feel it might be tough to make an anvil base from scrap that would be as large or solid as my current anvil anyway, so it made sense to me in that…

I have been fighting to get some order in the new shop and the power hammer tools have been hard to keep track of. In the old shop I had about 200 nails driven into the wall that they hung from. Here that isn't an option. I have two shelves, two tables, an as yet unused coal forge, and various buckets and milk crates. It can be difficult to find what I am looking for when I need it. Picking up today I found about 30 hacks! I do have a habit of just making more, which doesnt help much with the clutter

I started to build a treadle hammer last week and as the project progressed I decided I would add an electric motor and make it a powered hammer instead. This week as I get closer to completion I've changed my focus again and planning on it being a spring loaded hand hammer. From my photo you can see the pivot point and the spring that pulls the hammer back up after the strike. The angle iron that the spring is hooked on had to be added because the 150 lb door spring wasn't strong enough to lift the hammer with the short lever arm. I plan on attaching some sort of handle to either the arm just above the "hammer" or to the hammer itself so I can control the strikes bet…

I need (want?) a power hammer, and intend to build one. All I could get for it is a 3/4hp motor. My dilema is the configuration: Most power hammers I see, use toggle connection between the hammer and the motor.But a trip mechanism is much simpler and suited to my humble means. Why is the trip hammer so unpopular? Will I be loosing much if I"ll go this way? Is there a simple design that is significantly better?

Does anyone know where I can get dies for a Kerrihart 35lb power hammer, thanks

Hi Guys, Just looking fort some straight up opinions. I have an opportunity to buy a new style LG 50# mechanical hammer for $4500 CAD or potentially a Blu Max 110# for $4000 CAD. Both appear to be in pretty good shape. the blu max is only 7 years old with apparently light use. I already have a 5HP Ingersoll compressor to run the Blu off of and obviously I don't need it for the LG. Just curious to get your thoughts on which to bite on..

Ran across a couple of interesting German videos showing trip hammer work. The first is a silent film from 1963 showing a smith and his helper forging a grub hoe, mainly with water-powered trip hammers. There's some great camera work on this one. The second appears to be the replacement of the anvil block in a belt-driven trip hammer. I don't speak German, so I have no idea what the narrator is saying, but it's an interesting process. Interesting detail: the base of the log is set on what appears to be wooden cribbing stuffed with manure.

Many power hammers shown in use.

I started this recently using scrap materials; tracked excavator hammer bit for the anvil, track excavator C frame welded together for the pillar, and a defunct weigh scale for the base. I may use a hydraulic cylinder for power by shop air, with a guided helve style envisioned. Funds are limited so it may take a while to complete.

For anyone with a newer 250 than mine, how much vertical adjustment does your hammer have ? I am looking at putting a more modern style cross head on mine. It looks like there is plenty of clearance.

Just saw it - Thought there might be interest here - its not mine (dont have one) but if i am violating something feel free to delete this and i apologize in advance

I walked past this hammer at a job today. Its in a old smiths shop that has not seen any work sins the late 70s. It was in un light room and my phone did not get good pics. I did not see any name or markings. You people have any idea of maker or year ?

So I was curious if it would/could possibly cause issues with my hammer running it at a lower RPM than recommended? Issues like not oiling enough or not being able to "pull" enough oil from the oiling system? I'm just curious because I experimented with slowing it down for a brief moment to drive a drift really slow....kinda like "pushing" the drift vs. driving it in. I have enough control as is. I was just curious if I felt the need to slow it down in the future I don't wanna damage anything. Thank you My hammer is a TZ runfa 88lb/40kg

Hey all, Almost five years ago, I acquired a #75 Bradley hammer, and since then I've been using the dies that came with it. The upper die works fine, but the lower keeps deforming on me. I suspect it may be mild steel. Anyway, I decided recently to make a couple sets of dies out of a forklift tine that I have since I've read that they are usually 4340 or 4140. So I chopped it up into sections with my bandsaw, but decided to slice off a thin piece and try heat treating it first, before going to any more trouble. I soaked one sample piece at 1575 F for 30 minutes, then quenched in oil. After it had cooled to room temperature, I tried to break it in a vise, and couldn't…

I did a search and looked through all of the old Hawkeye threads and could not find one like this. Is it a #1? It looks different than Jeremy's restoration with the yoke and anvil size. Also, how well would it move metal? I was thinking about buying it, or a 25lb Little Giant. But after seeing his restoration, I'm thinking I like this better because of its rarity and buying it to use while I build an air hammer. Then restoring it to original condition as a show piece afterward. Thoughts from the experts?

Hey after trying the power hammer pages on Facebook with no luck. I hope someone here got an idea. So I got this self-contained hammer its old and a Danish designed. But the idle valv is missing. I have tried making one but it is not doing a great job. So I need an idea for how to design a new one or improving the one I got. I have attached some pictures and film clip of the hammer and hope someone out there got an idea Mads 20190929_112842.mp4

Dos anyone know where a fella could find something from which to make an anvil suitable for a 40-60 pound power hammer? I live in Mechanicsville, VA and was thinking maybe the shipyards in Norfolk would be a good starting point but most scrap yards I contacted are "Single-Contract Sellers" and can't sell me even so much as an old rusty nail. Any help would be welcomed. Bill

Hypothetical scenario: I'm wondering if a serious flood (aka. submersion) would do any lasting damage to a mechanical power hammer (bradley strap)? My feeling is that it's so greased up it would be fine. The motor, likely not? Anyone experience such a case or have thoughts? Thanks