Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'anvil'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • I Forge Iron Forum
    • Keeping You Informed
    • Feedback and Support
  • Blacksmithing
    • Blacksmithing, General Discussion
    • Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
    • Forges
    • Blacksmith Tooling
    • Vises
    • Heat Treating, general discussion
    • Building, Designing a Shop
    • Problem Solving
    • Alchemy, Formulas, Fluxes, etc
    • Metal Sculpture & Carvings
    • Cold Worked Iron and Steel
    • The Business Side of Blacksmithing
    • Smelting, Melting, Foundry, and Casting
    • Member Projects
  • Machinery and power tools
    • Machinery General Discussions
    • Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
    • Presses
    • Grinders, Sanders, etc
    • Drills, Post drills, Mag drills, etc
    • Lathes
    • MIlls, Milling machines, etc
    • Saws, bandsaws, hack saws, etc
    • Shears
  • Bladesmithing
    • Knife Making
    • Knife making Class General Class Discussion
    • Knife Making Classes
    • Axes, Hatchets, Hawks, Choppers, etc
    • Chisels, Gouges, etc
    • Finish and Polish
    • Folding Knives
    • Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
    • Historical Blades
    • Spears, Arrows, Pole arms, Mace/hammer etc.
    • Swordsmithing
  • Non-ferrous metal working
    • General Metal Specific Discussion
    • Aluminum Alloys
    • Copper Alloys
    • Mokume Gane
    • Non-ferrous metal - heat treating
    • Repousse
    • Titanium Alloys
  • Welding / Fabrication
    • Welding/Fab General Discussion
    • Welder's beginers course
  • Misc Discussions
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Everything Else
    • Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
    • Book Reviews
    • Tuesday night blueprints
    • Farriers and Horse stuff
    • Shop Tips n' Tricks
    • Gunsmithing, Muskets, Flintlocks etc
  • Store
    • Shirts, Apparel, Wearable goods
    • Hand Hammers
    • Books, Printed Material
  • Safety
    • Safety discussions
    • Personal Protection Equipment
    • Zinc, galvanized, and coatings
  • Sections
    • In Case of Emergency
    • Prayer List
  • Blacksmith Groups Forum
    • Australia
    • Canada
    • South Africa
    • United Kingdom
    • Ukraine
    • United States
    • Inactive

Categories

  • Pages
  • Articles
  • Blueprints
    • 00 series
    • Original Series
    • 100 Series
    • Uri Hofi Series
  • Lessons in Blacksmithing
  • Miscellaneous
  • Stories
  • The Smithy
  • You Might Be A
    • You might be a Coppersmith if
    • You might be a Tinsmith if
    • You might be a Machinist if
    • You might be a Knifemaker if
    • You might be a farrier if
  • Vulcan's Grill

Categories

  • Books
    • Introductory
  • Newsletters
    • AABA Anvil's Horn
    • New England Blacksmiths Newsletter
  • Trade Journals
    • American Blacksmith and Motor Shop

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Location


Biography


Interests


Occupation

Found 480 results

  1. Hello....I'm new to this forum. Need help identifying the anvil in the attached picture. I went to look at it today but the no so great bounce with a 5/8" ball and ring turned me off. 200# anvil with no maker mark I could see. Face wasnt bad....edges were ok. I'm in NYS. He was at $225.....I was at $200......Thank you for any and all input. I'm wondering if I left a good one behind?
  2. Let me know if this is not the right place. Trying to identify this anvil that was my wifes grandpa's Thanks, Peter
  3. Hi, I'm fairly new to this forum, and after browsing around, decided to make an account on account of anvils. Arguably, the most difficult part of starting out blacksmithing is finding the proper tools, but this applies especially to anvils (as I believe) as they are varied, expensive, difficult to move around, and overall requires a lot of work to acquire a good one. However, I believe I may have found something great 138 miles from me is a 219 pound Peter Wright anvil going for $700. Not exactly the best price ($3.12 a pound) but in my part of California that's pretty much the best you'll get. There are a lot of visible dings and imperfections, and I can't do anything about those because I don't own a welder, much less filler rods. The question for me right now is if I should go the distance and purchase this anvil, clean it up with an angle grinder, and simply call it a day, or should I purchase another option I've heard was good? Here's the pictures. Craigslist link removed
  4. Al's Available

    Fisher #9 1887

    New Member. Thought I'd kill two birds, say hello and give some info on the anvil I ended up with so it's available to anyone who might find it useful. Really appreciate the wealth of knowledge on the site! I haven't had a question yet that I couldn't find a relevant discussion about and being "Rigidizer drying as I type" green there's been a lot. Looking forward to progressing and hopefully being able to contribute. I have every intention of using this little guy as is to it's fullest and would appreciate any input especially in regards to the repairs, (I wouldn't hit that with anything harder than your purse,etc). I don't have any history on the anvil itself. The gentleman I bought it off had a shed full of anvils and chuckled when I asked if he did any blacksmithing himself. Just buys and sells... . Sorry If the picture quality isn't great. I assume it once had a pritchel hole and suffered a pretty substantial failure there and was filled in with the weld? Marked "Fisher" on the front of the base. With a proud "9" above it. on the opposite side "1887" with "3 11" under it. Possibly some well worn markings below that I can't make out. Weighs in at 85 lbs. Stands 9 5/8" tall, 17 3/8" horn to heel, face is 3 1/4"x 11". Foot profile is 9 x 8 1/2 and a 3/4" hardie hole pretty well rounded, might have started 5/8"?. Rebound is at about 75% with the rust still on(1" ball bearing). No ring to speak of as I've read is normal for Fishers, "city anvil". The welds are not as hard as the face which I hope Is a good thing meaning the temper wasn't messed with? Hopefully I uploaded the pictures right. Thanks for looking. Alex
  5. Hello guys, My friend have this Wilkinson's anvil with markings on it but I can't read them all. I see on one side: (disappeared Wilkinson's) Emblem Queen's Dudley And on the other side I think I can read: Patent Solid (R or B)un & En(I or T) ---­­­--- This is the part that I can't read. Does any of you know what it can be written please? Thanks
  6. Cronicninja

    New Mouse Hole Anvil

    Just got this bad boy for 350.00 seems to be in great shape. What say you guys? Has 0 rust on it or its coated in something not sure. Great ring to it. Thinking 1890 ish
  7. Cole green

    hay budden anvil

    I have a 138 pound hay budden anvil that I received when my grand father passed and I am trying to figure out the date it was made the serial number is bellow
  8. I’m don’t want to be a jerk that posts a sentence and a terrible picture and has to have you guys tell me pictures and descriptions help, so I tried my best to help you help me. Picked this guy up over the weekend for $85 in west central Indiana. Plainly you can see it’s been broken and used quite a bit. Any glaring characteristics that will help with identifying it? And what is the next step in getting it ready for use. I’ve seen sandblasting, electrolysis, wire wheel, vinergar, and so on and so forth. I’m just hoping to get a little advice and thank you in advance for taking the time to help. I see a small o and then a 1 (maybe or something else idk) I think, and definitely 22. I was told it was a 130lb anvil. I was looking at the same side of the number and saw a small x but other than those I can’t find any markings yet. And with the part missing I could see it being 1*128 + 2*26 + 2lbs= 182 - 50 lbs(for the broken part) and it being 130lbs. Although I haven’t weighed it I believe it is definitely close to that weight. It does have handling holes on both sides and the bottom. The one picture I messed with the color a little bit to try to get the number to stand out better. While I should have but didn’t put a reference item or measured it I would say from horn to break is around 20”. If it will help greatly I’ll dimension the whole damn thing. I know an anvil doesn’t have to be great to get the job done and I’m happy to have it. In todays market where I’ve been pricing anvils at between $ 4/5 a lb., $85 makes me suspicious even though it’s “broken”. I’m planning on making blades and some tools. So although a hardy hole would be optimal for my first anvil I’m kind of shocked that I found one for so cheap. I did a ping test and while my ears aren’t the best I hit it and definitely hear a ping. Don’t have a ball bearing yet to test a rebound yet but with a hammer I could feel a rebound. I know you shouldn’t grind the face of it but I can’t help but want to clean it up and flatten it out some. Idk if it’s my ocd or what... Thanks dean
  9. All I have are pictures and measurements so far.... your thoughts? 24.5" long X 4.5" wide X 13.25" high / base approx 15.5" X 11.25"
  10. Rookie here, looking to scrape together a small shop piece by piece. I've been looking for anvils in WI and have been put off by the prices. Today, I found one in a broken down shed. I took some bad pictures with my phone. There's an upside down triangle on one side so I assume it's Columbian. It's really really rusty and has a chip out of the bottom corner of the heel. First off, can this be saved? It hasn't been used in decades. It has nice ring and rebound when hit with a wrench (that's all I had on hand). Any idea what I should offer for it? What would be a can't lose price? Does anyone have experience restoring something this bad? Of course, I realize opinions are only that. I don't expect a firm answer and will make the decision on my own. Thanks.
  11. I ran across this anvil but couldn't get a look at it in person due to my work hours.. says its 120 lbs. 25" long... my first thoughts were Trenton or Arm & Hammer, or maybe Hay Budden ?? what does it look like to you ??
  12. Hello, all. I am trying to suss out the origin of my anvil. It weighs 147.5 lbs. and it bears the marking "147". It has the markings "163165" on the base. It also has a marking that I believe says "Brooklyn, NY", and "______ manufacturing CO". I really appreciate any help with this. Thank you.
  13. AfterAntiquity

    260# Fisher Saw Tuners Anvil

    Hey Fellas Long time lurker but first time Posting. Hoping that NJ Anvil Man will chime in. I've always been a picker and an Antiques guy. Tools & Iron have always been my love and I've owned many anvils through the years. Looking to see what the more seasoned veterans think of my most recent find. A marked Fisher Saw Tuners anvil in amazing condition, weighing in at a marked 260#. Thanks for any info.
  14. Scored this Trenton "German forged" anvil today at a yard sale for $40. Just curious on dating/forger info if anyone knows...and why does it have that weird shoehorn looking stub coming off the horn? What was its use?! The bottom is flat(ish) with only a handling hole, and there are no serial numbers to be found so far
  15. so apologies if there is a specific place to post this sort of question but i'm genuinely stumped on this anvil logo. i know that the shape is a double horned south german pattern anvil made in the year 1939.. but i cant quite make out the writing. for now these are the best photo's i have, but will post more as soon as i have them! any help in finding out anything about this would be immensely appreciated!
  16. Joseph Hamden

    Unknown Anvil

    Hey guys, I love the forums and have never posted before. I have recently had back surgery and I just do not need this anvil anymore. I have a smaller railroad anvil that will be enough for my new level of hammering metal into knife shaped objects. So I would like to know more about this anvil before I try to sell it. So any input about the anvil and/or best way to sell it would be awesome. I never weighed it but the anvil and base almost bottomed out by small truck. The dimensions are 36Lx6Wx27H (My son did the measuring lol so +/- 1/2 inch lol.)
  17. Hey new here and what not. I aquired the anvil yesterday and upon further inspection found that the plate was beginning to seprate from the base. Due to its size i was curious if itd still be okay to work on with the crack and Also if it is worth it to repair? It Starts near the front of the anvil and runs about 6 inches down the side. The crack doesnt even come close to the plate until the last inch or so. on the opposite side there is a corresponding crack 5 inches lower the the other one. The face is dead above the crack but fortunately enough theres plenty of room to work around it. I can post photos later when im home but if anyone can shed some light on this id be eternally grateful.
  18. Hi guys Please help me I'm new to the craft an am busy looking for a anvil. I found this one but I hope you can help me make my mind up. Is this anvil to damaged and is that round a "hardy" or what Please give me your thoughts on the anvil. The guy said that the anvil is round about 200 kg (÷- 440 pound) And compared to other anvil of the same weight it's about half the price
  19. Howdy all, I need some help with this anvil. I bought it today and did EXTENSIVE online research, and the only references I could find to it were on this forum (which were vague). I'm looking for any history/insight that any of you might have into the how old this anvil is, who made it, and any other bits of knowledge you might have. On the anvil itself, the words (barely readable) are as follows Lewis Warranted Best Tiedin (Is this a last name? Am I misreading this? NO results on google for tiedin. Doesn't even sound like a legit word to me) Thanks
  20. Ok....so I know this is a very hot topic for many. I personally fall into the "anvils are a gift from God, don't defile them" camp. However...I would like to hear from anyone who has PERSONALLY been involved with or observed an anvil repaired PROPERLY with Robb Gunters method. My main questions are 1) Was the faceplate near the weld noticeably softer than the surrounding steel (logic says it has to be to some degree) 2) Does the Stoody rod blend with the rest of the face (unlike 7018 or other high nickel rods) 3) Were you satisfied with the results of the repair 4) (open to all opinions) When is this repair TRULY necessary. When does an anvil go from tool that should be utilised, to a collectors item the ought not be touched? Here's a pic of the anvil that's leading me down this road. An otherwise beautiful Mousehole missing a valuable chunk of real estate. FYI This is not my first anvil, this is not my only anvil...I technically do not need the hardy to be functional....but it pains me to see something not live up to its potential.
  21. Hello, I just picked up this old double bick anvil in an early 19th century farm/sawmill/flourmill. The anvil is stamped with "E.W" and 210 (252 pounds). It weights 246lbs on my scale. The hardy hole location reminds me of a french anvil. The steel face is about 1/2"-5/8" thick from what I can see. It has a sharp and loud ring.It does have a good saddle in the middle. Do you have any information regarding this brand of anvil or its origin? Thanks for your help!
  22. Hello, I'm Argentinean, I need to identify my anvil. Yunque (Anvil) UAT 60 kG - Serial number 2326 Regards
  23. I recently purchased this 209 pound anvil and (Has 1 3 13 markings on it, though they are fading) looking to hopefully ID a maker? I tried to clean it up, but still didn't see anything that could be clearly defined as a maker's mark. Also can't see the underside without un-mounting it (which I plan to do because the angle steel used to mount it doesn't provide a solid mounting option), but I'm hoping the flat-top helps make a positive ID. Thoughts?
  24. I got this Trenton anvil a few weeks ago. It seems in pretty good shape, with no real damage that I can tell, and no visible repairs that I can note. I'm wondering if this anvil is too old, so that its' face is not a highly tempered face. I have dropped a ball bearing on the face and the rebound is poor 50% (or a bit less?). I have 4 older smaller blacksmith hammers and one of them has pretty good rebound off the face, and all around the face , front to back. The other three smaller hammers have poor rebound everywhere. So I am wondering if this anvil is too old to have a highly tempered face? I ask this because I am not sure what to expect about the face response question/health. The serial seems to be A (lower left leg gone in the divot) 310 (6 seems to be the consensus of the last digit). I do not know how to age this anvil based upon the apparent serial. Hourglass bottom. On the whole the anvil seems in very good shape. W seems as 178 or 173. I think 178. My lbs scale says 174.5. There is another Trenton post, here and that anvil seems to have Columbus USA, or something like that below Trenton. On my anvil I can not make anything out below the Trenton name. Thanks you your help in clarifying these questions.
  25. Good evening All. I've just picked up a John Brooks from a farm auction in East Sussex, United Kingdom. I think its a 123 English Hundredweight? I can not find any online pics like it. I've not got it on a scale yet but I can say, I shouldn't pick it up myself... Any ideas? Thank You in advance for your help!