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Found 501 results

  1. Why do so many guys anvil stands look like welded scrap metal, they have no skills, they adopted a red headed step child, or just flat don't about the most used tool in the smithy. No matter what your stand is made of make it nice. I have seen all sorts of ugly terrible way guys fasten their anvils. Seen guys working on a stand that wobbles all over the place. It's were we spend most of our time. It should be the best managed, looked after, efficient, and usable piece of equipment in our smithy. Here are some tips and pics of my stand. So wood, metal, stone, or Kryptonite get a good fastening system in place. Chains with nails, screws, rubber bands, duct tape....come on. There is a better cleaner way. Some nice forged to fit straps, stakes, brackets. I use a set of hold downs forged to fit my anvil. It's clean efficient and compact. Drill and tap your plate, lag bolt, tapcon....ect. Tool racks. It should not look like there is a junk yard around your anvil. I designed and cut my top plate from 1/2" or thicker plate steel. I have holes for hammers, tongs, ect and slots for hardy tools and more. I did this because I have seem many stands with loops and flat bar welded on to flat plate..... it looks sloppy and over time they get bent or broke off because people naturally drop tools into them and the weight crashing down just wares it out over time. 5 years my top plate is still sturdy and solid with no broken or bent tool racks. Now I am not a fan of the stump or wood. I prefer steel. It allows me to get in closet to my anvil so I am not bent over as much, there is storage underneath and having only 3 legs it never wobbles. I work big steel and use my anvil with a bending hardy a lot so Ilike my anvil bolted to the floor. I also like to have space to set tongs, hand tools wire brush on. So I use a swiveling removable tool tray. I just found a pipe and piece of steel that fit inside one another and welded the pipe to my stand, opposite side I stand on. I welded 2 points of contact one at the horn and one at the heel. I can move it to the part I am working at. I like to use expanded metal for these tool trays or shelves because the scale falls thru. I have rubber on my tray because it keeps the tools from making noise because of the vibrations from hammering. Let me know your thoughts, let me see your stands, ask questions, let make these thing better and more functional.
  2. Can any one tell me how old A Hay Budden is? the serial number is A22,749. it is stamped 1 0 2 under the name. is this the weight? how much do you pay for a real nice anvil?? steve
  3. So I just ran across this anvil in an antique shop for $150 (Veterans Day Sale) and it is actual 35 pounds, but it looks like the top is welded on. I was planning on purchasing a farriers anvil next year but I figured this might be worth it? I unfortunately have not looked into anvils much because I didn’t plan on buying one soon and the sale ends in 2 hours. So is this worth it, or let it pass? (200 is normal price that they are asking) sorry if this is the wrong place to ask.
  4. Dos anyone know where a fella could find something from which to make an anvil suitable for a 40-60 pound power hammer? I live in Mechanicsville, VA and was thinking maybe the shipyards in Norfolk would be a good starting point but most scrap yards I contacted are "Single-Contract Sellers" and can't sell me even so much as an old rusty nail. Any help would be welcomed. Bill
  5. Can anyone help identify or roughly date this anvil? Sorry for the poor pictures with vegetation, I only had a few seconds to grab a couple of pictures so these were the best I could do. Location is the South West of England so I assume it is from a UK maker? From the way the pritchel hole breaks out of the side I assume it was drilled? I’ve not seen one in that part of an anvil before. The face is approximately 14” x 5.75”, the horn is approximately 7” long and the pritchel hole is 1” in diameter. The anvil is too corroded to see any markings. Not much to go in but hopefully someone may have an idea of maker and age?
  6. Hello I am kinda new, and one of the focuses I want to get into is tool making. I have seen lots of info on making pretty much any tool I can think of besides anvils, and was wondering if anyone had info on this topic. More specifically forged anvils, not tooled or cast. I have seen a few small projects mostly from alec Steele for decorative ones, but I want to learn to make useful ones starting small, and working up to larger ones.
  7. I recently purchased a Belknap anvil, 110lbs. I was hesitant to buy it because I couldn't find much info on their anvils. Fortunately it has turned out to be a pretty good anvil. I was wondering if anybody had any info on Belknap anvil, especially a date for the anvil's year of manufacturing. I did what research I could and found a 1917 catalog from Belknap but found the markings on my anvil to be different from the catalog and the company's logo in later years. Anyways, I appreciate any info.
  8. Hello, new to the group trying to get into blacksmithing, i am a welder by trade. I have picked up two anvils one is a 63lb arm and hammer the other is i think a Columbus 97lb. I would like to know more about them. Say when they were made,if they are any good, any and all information you can give me would be appreciated.
  9. I just got back from working in Wyoming. I visited my buddy that I got my soderfors anvil from and I walked away with this little guy. It is trunkated, it weighs 45.6 lbs, the face is 3 inches wide, from the shelf to the Hardy hole it is 7 inches, the Hardy hole was 3/4 inch, it's 7 1/2 inches tall with a foot print of 7 inches by 6 3/4 inches. It has a slight hourglass shaped indention on the bottom. What looks like a thin hardend steel plate is really just the edge that has been curled down from use. It looks to be welded at the waist. It has about 80 percent rebound on the face, it rings good until you test the horn then there's hardly any ring and it looks like the horn has a large fracture running through it. I can't find any dicernable makers marks or weight. I havn't done any spark testing on it yet to check if it's wrought iron, cast iron or cast steel. The only history I have on it is that he picked it up at a ranch estate sale. My buddy was going to use it as is until he had two massive strokes that left him unable to work. So he just gave the little guy to me. I was going to clean up the trunkated area and use it for edge packing on knives, small forging items or maybe just as a conversation piece. I find it amazing that the Vikings used similar sized anvils for most of their forgings. Maybe I'll try it out as a small travel anvil. Enjoy and forge on :-)
  10. Just got this bad boy for 350.00 seems to be in great shape. What say you guys? Has 0 rust on it or its coated in something not sure. Great ring to it. Thinking 1890 ish
  11. I don't have much information on the anvil, it does say made in Sweden and has a star above the words, but I can't make out any other inscriptions. I've heard there isn't a bad Swedish anvil, but I'd like to know what exactly it is.
  12. Hi I’m new to this blacksmith and new to this forum. This is my first real anvil anvil and I’m just curious about what exactly it is. I know is a Columbian and it’s 75lbs. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  13. Hello, I received this anvil and would like to know more about who made it, it’s age, the concave bottom and how the maker got it to ring like it does! Someone told me to drop a ball bearing on face in different places and see what kind of rebound it has.. It bounces almost back up to my hand! Maybe 85-90% of the way. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Kacy8261
  14. This afternoon I encountered the largest anvil of my young life. We showed up to Carson Park in Eau Claire, WI for the Independence Day celebration. My mom told me there was a forge I should see. Grandpa mentioned the lights in the coal forge to make it seem hot and I lowered my expectations. This is what I found. I was focused on family, so I did not get a brand/maker's mark etc. There was an 800 on the foot (bottom right) which I believe indicated weight in pounds. My 5'4" bride for scale. The hardy is over an inch wide; the pritchel is about 1/2". We found the sign humorous.
  15. Hi there everyone, just kicking off with the blacksmithing trade hoping to get into it. Slowly collecting tools, made a coal forge the other day. Luckily I picked up this anvil for $150 which has some major damage. Not too sure on how to restore the hardy holes. No idea what's going on with the rivet either. I've been told from about hard facing with a welder and also milling, forming lump of steel to weld on the break. Not too sure yet. From tip of horn to break 650mm Anvil face width 150mm Height 350mm Horn length 300mm Any advice, tips, tricks and info would be greatly much appreciated. Cheers guys.
  16. Recently joned the forum, and figured I would start posting. Attached are pictures of an ACME Anvil I saw for sale on Craigslist recently. There are quite a few numbers stamped at the foot of the base, see picture. It appears to be stamped '120' on the left. Perhaps the right side is a serial number? (A38215 ??). For ACME anvils, is the 120 indicating pounds, or is that marking the stone weight? (which would make it 168 lbs). In the picture of the side, is the top plate delaminating, or is the top plate seam just visible? They are asking $600 - which seems a little steep given the condition. I was considering offering $350 for it (about $2/lb.), but that is well below the asking price. Is this anvil worth buying for my first anvil? If so, any thoughts on a fair price? Thanks, Matt O'Driscoll Virginia
  17. njanvilman, any data in AIA on Arm and Hammer 93# Serial: 27689 ?
  18. Hi all, I just came across and bought an Arm and Hammer anvil. I'm a major noob but from reading what people are saying about this brand, I'm pretty excited. The serial number stamped on the foot is 37117. Would anyone know roughly when it might have been made? (I don't have the AIA book) It is also stamped with "99" under the logo; is that a reference to the weight? The seller said it was around 100 lbs. Thanks in advance!
  19. Hello all. Picked this one up today and need help with an ID. I don't see any markings on front or back, but it's been painted. Both feet have numbers. I assume the 85 is a weight--it feels right when I lift it. Each foot has a 3 on the far right as you look at it. Same serial number on each foot. Thanks in advance.......Mike
  20. On YouTube a guy made a sand filled anvil stand that weighed around 100 pounds is this advisable, thanks link here- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qn80WsvJc94&t=325s
  21. Howdy! I'm new to the sport, and my dad just revealed he had this awesome Trenton 135lb farriers anvil. It had been sitting out open to the weather (but not in the weather) for probably the last 15 years- covered in a layer of greenish moss and rust. We immediately got it indoors, and I took a wire brush to the moss/rust coat. Took steel wool to the face. I'm trying to figure out how to remove all the rust, so I can get it properly dry and coated in oil/wax and keep it from rusting further. Long term, I will need to store this in my dad's barn, which isn't completely enclosed. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I believe this anvil was made in 1911, and has been passed down. I really don't want to ruin it!
  22. Hi, I was wondering if anyone could help me identify whether this anvil is cast or forged? Also if there has been a plate welded onto the top? I was plan on cleaning up the bumps on the face after buying it as it is fairly flat overall but don't know if it's worth it with if it's cast iron. Fairly new to this but I thought the texture on the top looked cast but then it seemed to have handling holes in the sides so I just don't know. I can try listening for a ring and looking at rebound but it's an hour and a half away to pick up so id rather know before hand. Thanks for any help. Iv attached some pictures for reference!
  23. Hey guys, I’m trying to decide on my next anvil it’s a toss up of a perfect shape S&S 387lbs no sideshelf north German or a holland north German style with a side shelf 466 lbs. I’m really torn between the two. The s&s is lighter but older and has no side shelf but has the cool old factor going for it. I also think it’s going to increase in value and I think a used holland will depreciate. I’m thinking down the road for my family when I’m gone. This will be my dream worker anvil. Anyway, do Any of you guys that don’t have a side shelf wish that you did? Also you guys with a side shelf can you tell me the best advantages of having one? Any help as always is greatly appreciated.
  24. All, I have recently purchased this anvil at an auction for my son who has been using various other devices as anvils. The anvil was a surprise buy and the house did not have any information on the anvil; however, from what I can tell with my limited exp, it looks a lot like a Trenton. I have attached a picture of the Anvil and the markings from the base. Thanks for your time and input, Ken...