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  1. I just got this anvil for our blacksmith school and its a 588lb anvil with 2 separate 2 inch hardy holes. I have read in AIA that some peter wrights do not have any markings and the feet and other characteristics on this anvil fit that of a Peter Wright. I come to you all as a relatively new member for your expertise and to see if this size anvil is common and to learn more. I am hoping to see if you all think this is a good anvil and what your thoughts are. Thank you again.
  2. Dear Gurus, could you please help me identify the pattern of my anvil? My research leads this being south? German the closest, however results I'm comparing with are not consistent. It seems to have similarities with Peddinghaus pattern with these double horns. However this has name of BELGOFER c 1845 / BL1067 P2. One of those rip-offs which were famous to copy Peddinghaus? It's 50 kg anvil. Please disregard the base and an anvil fixture being removed, working to remake it a bit.
  3. Why do so many guys anvil stands look like welded scrap metal, they have no skills, they adopted a red headed step child, or just flat don't about the most used tool in the smithy. No matter what your stand is made of make it nice. I have seen all sorts of ugly terrible way guys fasten their anvils. Seen guys working on a stand that wobbles all over the place. It's were we spend most of our time. It should be the best managed, looked after, efficient, and usable piece of equipment in our smithy. Here are some tips and pics of my stand. So wood, metal, stone, or Kryptonite get a good fastening system in place. Chains with nails, screws, rubber bands, duct tape....come on. There is a better cleaner way. Some nice forged to fit straps, stakes, brackets. I use a set of hold downs forged to fit my anvil. It's clean efficient and compact. Drill and tap your plate, lag bolt, tapcon....ect. Tool racks. It should not look like there is a junk yard around your anvil. I designed and cut my top plate from 1/2" or thicker plate steel. I have holes for hammers, tongs, ect and slots for hardy tools and more. I did this because I have seem many stands with loops and flat bar welded on to flat plate..... it looks sloppy and over time they get bent or broke off because people naturally drop tools into them and the weight crashing down just wares it out over time. 5 years my top plate is still sturdy and solid with no broken or bent tool racks. Now I am not a fan of the stump or wood. I prefer steel. It allows me to get in closet to my anvil so I am not bent over as much, there is storage underneath and having only 3 legs it never wobbles. I work big steel and use my anvil with a bending hardy a lot so Ilike my anvil bolted to the floor. I also like to have space to set tongs, hand tools wire brush on. So I use a swiveling removable tool tray. I just found a pipe and piece of steel that fit inside one another and welded the pipe to my stand, opposite side I stand on. I welded 2 points of contact one at the horn and one at the heel. I can move it to the part I am working at. I like to use expanded metal for these tool trays or shelves because the scale falls thru. I have rubber on my tray because it keeps the tools from making noise because of the vibrations from hammering. Let me know your thoughts, let me see your stands, ask questions, let make these thing better and more functional.
  4. I grabbed a Kanca 50 anvil on sale as I've heard good about their vices before purchase i tested rebound with a 3/8 bearing ball and its good 80-95% at $800 i thought it wouldn't be a bad grab as I've seen no old anvils locally. brought it home and tested it with a small ballpeen starting about 4 inches and light blows there are visible marks in the face (images left large to see) and a 800G hammer was flattening the edges while taking small nicks to the face I'm trying to decide if i should return it and wait for something better or use this it is definitely forged top, 2 pieces and welded together. Base may be cast M.J.Lampert
  5. I have a (what I think to be) Hay Budden anvil. I’m Interested in what it may be worth. It’s been sitting in a 200 year old barn out in Millville, NJ. It’s stamped 170 (I assume Lbs) has an upside down #1 stamp under the horn.(If your looking at the horn straight on it’s under the horn on the right) has a stamp A26296 on base. Bottom of anvil is not flat. Looks like it says Brooklyn where the name would be but I can’t make it out.
  6. Hi Guys, New to the forum but have seen a lot of great advice on here in regards to anvil identification and appraisal as to quality. Im a novice smith (hardly can call myself that really) and its really showing as i want to buy my first anvil (see attached... im hoping to get more photos and i am goingto see it in person soon). Up until this point i have been using just a peice of rail and i think its time to uprgade as it is chipped and rutted as anything else. If it is allowed I would like to put a few questions out there. 1. Would anyone be able to identify the anvil? It has T7 marked on it any other identifying features are missing or rusted out. It has an approximate weight of 150 - 200kg (300 - 400#). 2. The heel of the anvil is chipped as you can kind of glean from the image... the seller think that it was previsouly repaired but had broken out as there is evidence of weld. The horn, cutting face and working face are all very worn it has definitely seen some use but in my inexperieced opinion needs some love. Is there any rule of thumb to determine whether the working face is it too beaten up and needs repairing or from the looks of it does it seeem workable as is? 3. im definitely going to have to repair the heel and have been recommended something similar to the Gunther Method (heat up and fill with good welding rod and grind back). Is this the route that you all would recommend? 3. how much would you all be willing to pay for such an anvil in this condition and this size? As far as im concerned the seller is asking a more than fair price for an anvil that that im reasonably happy to pay. The thing i want to avoid at this point is buying something that doesnt suit my purposes or is going to take more money than expected to fix up or maintain in the long run. I will be hopefully getting more picture and measurements soon... Thanks in advance! 3.
  7. http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/anvils/55-lb-rugged-cast-iron-anvil-69161.html#.UyxAAfldW50 Has anyone used the Central Forge Anvil before? Its within my price range, and close to me. I have heard that they get soft in the middle after a few months. Thanks!
  8. Well it most certainly has been awhile since I have posted anything on here. But i'm going to cut to the chase and ask the question, do I need to worry about what type of welding rods I am going to use to repair the cutting table on my Peter Wright anvil? Also do I need to preheat the cutting table? note I am not going to even touch the face of the anvil, just the cutting table. I will attach some pictures of it to show the extent of the damage to it. the table is very uneven and has a lot of cutting marks and a giant pit in the middle. I have 7014, 6010, and 7018, shall I use these or do I need wrought iron rods? Thank y'all for your time and responses, -Matthew H p.s.: sorry for the bad photos in advance, and for clarification purposes I have almost graduated and obtained my welding certification for all processes, so I am not worried about my welding ability just have some questions. And I thank all of you for your help.
  9. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Got this for $27 last night. I would like to know what the "box" # means, and if it's a good anvil for a brand new bladesmith to start with? At least I hope to be at minimum my own knife maker! Lol. The working surface has a wonderful ring to it. Idk how or what to do for the bounce back test? And there's just a couple minor marks on the working section, and a small chip on the edge
  10. I have this anvil I inherited from my uncle and I'm trying to identify this beast. The anvil has to weigh atleast over 200 pounds and the only identifying mark it has is a "R" on the base of it. I'm also looking to sell and downsize this anvil since I would only be making smaller blades. What would be a good fair price for this as well. Located in Duncan,Oklahoma
  11. Hello everyone, this is my first time posting here. I'm very new to blacksmithing and am looking for some advice on fixing up this old stake anvil. I just recently picked up this old William Foster stake anvil for $100! It was pretty rusted when I got it, I've been trying to clean it up. I soaked it in a vinegar/water solution and scrubbed away with a wire brush and a some coarse steel wool. I got most of the rust off, but now I've gotten through some of the patina down to bare metal in spots. I am hoping to keep as much patina as I can, but there is still rust in some of the deeper pits. I wanted to ask for everyone's advice on how to proceed. From what I've been able to figure out I know William Foster anvils were forged in the early to mid 1800's, and I don;t want to damage it. Which brings up my second question. The face is pretty pitted from the rust, should I sand it and make it a more usable tool again? Or should this be left alone as a collectors piece? I've attached some photos below of how it came to me, and how it's looking now. Thanks in advance for your help! -Russell
  12. Charles McDonald

    First anvil

    My first anvil! Its a 209lbs Wilkinson
  13. I am looking for information on an anvil. It looks very sturdy and someone said it was i good shape. a few markings on it... see photos. My grandson loves forged in fire... but I am not sure if he will ever sling a hammer. Any info will be appreciated.
  14. So basically, I am just beginning blacksmithing and I am making a makeshift anvil. I really don't have enough money to buy a real anvil but I'm trying to make one. I have a big truck spring steel leaf (I don't really know what a thing of spring steel is called. What I'm saying is I have a big thing of thick spring steel). I am going to use it to make the top of a striking anvil, but the steel is a bit small on the width. I want it to have more surface area so I can have a more enjoyable time forging. What I want to do is have a shop weld two plates for me (I don't have a welder) so I can use it. Before I just take it to them, I want to know if spring steel will actually weld to each other. Will the welds stay? I would also like to weld a mild steel elbow onto the steel so I can pin it to a log. Will the mild steel actually weld to it? Thanks! - Brewny BTW - The spring steel is SUPER hard. I tried one normalizing cycle on a plate of it and I still could barely make a dent with my HSS drill bits. Should I use carbide drill bits for spring steel? Also, am I in the right topic? I don't want to get in trouble for being in the wrong one.
  15. I have an Anvil about 200 lbs I think. It’s a Trexton that’s what it looks like. Can anyone tell me what this would be able to be sold for? Thanks!
  16. I got this little peterwright anvil can anyone estimate the age? All I know it’s before 1908 from the stamping. But the horn makes me believe it can be before 1900’s. But I don’t know
  17. Has anyone here ever had their anvil's surface machined, and is it worth getting done? I have a very old anvil with a decent surface but has a bunch of narrow dings that are about 1/16" to 1/8" deep. The hardened top plate is about an inch thick. Would it make work easier for me if I had it machined just below the dings or would it weaken my anvil? Thanks ahead of time.
  18. Trying to date our new Hay Budden anvil. s/n 12639 thanks
  19. i just found a vise 6 inch jaws. opens to 10 1/2 inches where can i go to find information on it i have searched the web and have not seen another one even similar.
  20. Well, I tried the TPAAAT method and had results within 24 hours. Now comes the part where I try and figure out how much to offer and get some help from you folks on what kind of condition this animal is in. I will go back tomorrow with a ruler and a ball bearing and test the rebound, as well as lightly tapping all over the face horn and heel. I did tap the face once and it rang very strongly, sort of like a bell. It seemed very hard. I think it’s cast steel, It weighs around 150 pounds and the only mark I could find on it was sort of indistinct under the heel. I’ve included a photo. At the bottom of the anvil there is an oval shaped indentation and everything else seems like it’s intact just a little bit of wear on the step and face. I also found a swage that looks to be at least 100 pounds and numerous tongs.
  21. Good day everyone, I've found and bought this anvil in august from a retiring blacksmith and have tried doing research on the maker, without success, so I'm wondering if any of you might know a bit more about the history of this anvil. I bought the anvil in Belgium, Antwerp, and it's very similar to an UAT anvil, it weighs 145 kg or 320lbs, it's height is 30cm or 11 13/16'', it's 88.5 cm or 2' 10 27/32" long, it's 16 cm or 6 19/64 " wide, it has a hardy hole and a pritchel hole which are 3 cm or 1 3/16" wide and it has the number 145 for the weight on it's side together with ''LG'' which I think might be the maker. Thank you in advance and kind regards Quinlan.
  22. Hi all, I've been wanting to work with metal for almost for about 5 years now, and my journey in the Air Force has finally given me time to pursue this interest. There is one problem I have run into though. I live in Alaska, and cannot find an anvil anywhere. I have heard of people using railroad rails as a low quality substitute and I am wondering if this is ok to start with. I want to start perfecting scroll work, tool making and repair and possibly blade making. Thanks for your time
  23. I just bought a Fisher anvil. Haven't weighed it yet, but I was told it's about 80 pounds. It has 1882 on it. The top edges have a couple of chipped places, but not bad. I paid $150 for it, any idea if I over paid?
  24. Good morning all, I wondered if anyone could shed any light on this anvil, from my online searches I think I've deduced that it's a mousehole anvil, however I'm stumped as to why there's no hardie or pritchel on the face. I am just negotiating a price with a guy and he's offered me this for £100. I currently have an anvil from Amazon, one of the Chinese 66lb Orions and wondered if it's worth upgrading.
  25. Slowly upgrading my home made anvil from an old craine weight Slowly upgrading my home made anvil from an old craine weight
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