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  1. I have this anvil I inherited from my uncle and I'm trying to identify this beast. The anvil has to weigh atleast over 200 pounds and the only identifying mark it has is a "R" on the base of it. I'm also looking to sell and downsize this anvil since I would only be making smaller blades. What would be a good fair price for this as well. Located in Duncan,Oklahoma
  2. Hello everyone, this is my first time posting here. I'm very new to blacksmithing and am looking for some advice on fixing up this old stake anvil. I just recently picked up this old William Foster stake anvil for $100! It was pretty rusted when I got it, I've been trying to clean it up. I soaked it in a vinegar/water solution and scrubbed away with a wire brush and a some coarse steel wool. I got most of the rust off, but now I've gotten through some of the patina down to bare metal in spots. I am hoping to keep as much patina as I can, but there is still rust in some of the deeper pits. I wanted to ask for everyone's advice on how to proceed. From what I've been able to figure out I know William Foster anvils were forged in the early to mid 1800's, and I don;t want to damage it. Which brings up my second question. The face is pretty pitted from the rust, should I sand it and make it a more usable tool again? Or should this be left alone as a collectors piece? I've attached some photos below of how it came to me, and how it's looking now. Thanks in advance for your help! -Russell
  3. Charles McDonald

    First anvil

    My first anvil! Its a 209lbs Wilkinson
  4. I am looking for information on an anvil. It looks very sturdy and someone said it was i good shape. a few markings on it... see photos. My grandson loves forged in fire... but I am not sure if he will ever sling a hammer. Any info will be appreciated.
  5. So basically, I am just beginning blacksmithing and I am making a makeshift anvil. I really don't have enough money to buy a real anvil but I'm trying to make one. I have a big truck spring steel leaf (I don't really know what a thing of spring steel is called. What I'm saying is I have a big thing of thick spring steel). I am going to use it to make the top of a striking anvil, but the steel is a bit small on the width. I want it to have more surface area so I can have a more enjoyable time forging. What I want to do is have a shop weld two plates for me (I don't have a welder) so I can use it. Before I just take it to them, I want to know if spring steel will actually weld to each other. Will the welds stay? I would also like to weld a mild steel elbow onto the steel so I can pin it to a log. Will the mild steel actually weld to it? Thanks! - Brewny BTW - The spring steel is SUPER hard. I tried one normalizing cycle on a plate of it and I still could barely make a dent with my HSS drill bits. Should I use carbide drill bits for spring steel? Also, am I in the right topic? I don't want to get in trouble for being in the wrong one.
  6. I have an Anvil about 200 lbs I think. It’s a Trexton that’s what it looks like. Can anyone tell me what this would be able to be sold for? Thanks!
  7. I got this little peterwright anvil can anyone estimate the age? All I know it’s before 1908 from the stamping. But the horn makes me believe it can be before 1900’s. But I don’t know
  8. Has anyone here ever had their anvil's surface machined, and is it worth getting done? I have a very old anvil with a decent surface but has a bunch of narrow dings that are about 1/16" to 1/8" deep. The hardened top plate is about an inch thick. Would it make work easier for me if I had it machined just below the dings or would it weaken my anvil? Thanks ahead of time.
  9. Trying to date our new Hay Budden anvil. s/n 12639 thanks
  10. i just found a vise 6 inch jaws. opens to 10 1/2 inches where can i go to find information on it i have searched the web and have not seen another one even similar.
  11. Well, I tried the TPAAAT method and had results within 24 hours. Now comes the part where I try and figure out how much to offer and get some help from you folks on what kind of condition this animal is in. I will go back tomorrow with a ruler and a ball bearing and test the rebound, as well as lightly tapping all over the face horn and heel. I did tap the face once and it rang very strongly, sort of like a bell. It seemed very hard. I think it’s cast steel, It weighs around 150 pounds and the only mark I could find on it was sort of indistinct under the heel. I’ve included a photo. At the bottom of the anvil there is an oval shaped indentation and everything else seems like it’s intact just a little bit of wear on the step and face. I also found a swage that looks to be at least 100 pounds and numerous tongs.
  12. Good day everyone, I've found and bought this anvil in august from a retiring blacksmith and have tried doing research on the maker, without success, so I'm wondering if any of you might know a bit more about the history of this anvil. I bought the anvil in Belgium, Antwerp, and it's very similar to an UAT anvil, it weighs 145 kg or 320lbs, it's height is 30cm or 11 13/16'', it's 88.5 cm or 2' 10 27/32" long, it's 16 cm or 6 19/64 " wide, it has a hardy hole and a pritchel hole which are 3 cm or 1 3/16" wide and it has the number 145 for the weight on it's side together with ''LG'' which I think might be the maker. Thank you in advance and kind regards Quinlan.
  13. Hi all, I've been wanting to work with metal for almost for about 5 years now, and my journey in the Air Force has finally given me time to pursue this interest. There is one problem I have run into though. I live in Alaska, and cannot find an anvil anywhere. I have heard of people using railroad rails as a low quality substitute and I am wondering if this is ok to start with. I want to start perfecting scroll work, tool making and repair and possibly blade making. Thanks for your time
  14. I just bought a Fisher anvil. Haven't weighed it yet, but I was told it's about 80 pounds. It has 1882 on it. The top edges have a couple of chipped places, but not bad. I paid $150 for it, any idea if I over paid?
  15. Good morning all, I wondered if anyone could shed any light on this anvil, from my online searches I think I've deduced that it's a mousehole anvil, however I'm stumped as to why there's no hardie or pritchel on the face. I am just negotiating a price with a guy and he's offered me this for £100. I currently have an anvil from Amazon, one of the Chinese 66lb Orions and wondered if it's worth upgrading.
  16. Slowly upgrading my home made anvil from an old craine weight Slowly upgrading my home made anvil from an old craine weight
  17. I've been offered an anvil with the markings Lincoln E 50, it seems like it's cast and 50 most likely refers to 50kg. I'd like to know if these are good anvils, since I haven't been able to find anything about Lincoln anvils. Thanks for your time.
  18. Hello, I'm new here out of curiosity about an anvil I picked up. A knowledgable friend says it's a Columbian so I'm just looking for second opinions and more info. I would guess it weighs about 30 or 40 lbs. I found a few pictures of similar looking anvils but none with the "S" mark on the side opposite the triangle C mark. So I'm wondering - is it a "real" anvil (as opposed to a cast iron shape) and if so, what types of work was it meant for? It's next to a 10" wide woodworking vise in one of the pictures for size reference. Thanks
  19. Why do so many guys anvil stands look like welded scrap metal, they have no skills, they adopted a red headed step child, or just flat don't about the most used tool in the smithy. No matter what your stand is made of make it nice. I have seen all sorts of ugly terrible way guys fasten their anvils. Seen guys working on a stand that wobbles all over the place. It's were we spend most of our time. It should be the best managed, looked after, efficient, and usable piece of equipment in our smithy. Here are some tips and pics of my stand. So wood, metal, stone, or Kryptonite get a good fastening system in place. Chains with nails, screws, rubber bands, duct tape....come on. There is a better cleaner way. Some nice forged to fit straps, stakes, brackets. I use a set of hold downs forged to fit my anvil. It's clean efficient and compact. Drill and tap your plate, lag bolt, tapcon....ect. Tool racks. It should not look like there is a junk yard around your anvil. I designed and cut my top plate from 1/2" or thicker plate steel. I have holes for hammers, tongs, ect and slots for hardy tools and more. I did this because I have seem many stands with loops and flat bar welded on to flat plate..... it looks sloppy and over time they get bent or broke off because people naturally drop tools into them and the weight crashing down just wares it out over time. 5 years my top plate is still sturdy and solid with no broken or bent tool racks. Now I am not a fan of the stump or wood. I prefer steel. It allows me to get in closet to my anvil so I am not bent over as much, there is storage underneath and having only 3 legs it never wobbles. I work big steel and use my anvil with a bending hardy a lot so Ilike my anvil bolted to the floor. I also like to have space to set tongs, hand tools wire brush on. So I use a swiveling removable tool tray. I just found a pipe and piece of steel that fit inside one another and welded the pipe to my stand, opposite side I stand on. I welded 2 points of contact one at the horn and one at the heel. I can move it to the part I am working at. I like to use expanded metal for these tool trays or shelves because the scale falls thru. I have rubber on my tray because it keeps the tools from making noise because of the vibrations from hammering. Let me know your thoughts, let me see your stands, ask questions, let make these thing better and more functional.
  20. Looking for some help. Bought this anvil with the back cracked off. It has markings but I can't seem to figure out who made it. There is a large M on it, and I can see "son & s" but can't make out the rest any ideas, thanks for the help!
  21. the original stump of my anvil was too big in diameter. uncomfortable to move and above all it did not allow me to be as near to the anvil as I like except by placing the anvil itself on the edge of it rather than in the center. so I decided to put it aside for now and use the old stump of my "ASO". I took two pieces of pallet frame and cut them copying the shape of the base of the anvil obtaining two stop blocks which I nailed to the center of the new stump. now I can move it more easily and can get closer to the anvil when I forge. it is perfectly stable and the anvil cannot move at all. if you are interested here is the link to the video: https://youtu.be/NHkdosG3-ZQ
  22. Hello everyone! My wife’s grandpa gave me some free goodies that he’s been holding on to for years. The coolest is this little anvil. It looks like it’s gotten a couple little repairs and might have a mild steel body with a hardened steel top plate, but I’m not entirely sure. The logo is really worn down, but after a ton of research I found it is a second generation Arm and Hammer (2nd gen as in 2nd logo design). There are remnants of numbers stamped below the logo, but its hard to make them out. From what I can tell, it looks like a 2 and a 6, but this definitely weighs more than 26 pounds. I looked for any other identification marks, but I see no remnants of a serial number on the feet or body, and on the underside theres a square hole like a holding hole, not the normal oval indentation that is associated with the Arm & Hammer brand. Since this was passed to me from family, I'm trying to gather as much info on it so I can relay it back to my wife's grandpa. I'm working on setting it up for my work area so i can start using it too of course, but just trying to gather the history behind it. With that said, knowing it's an Arm & Hammer, I'm looking for the rough year it may have been made, what I might be looking at for weight (i also have a 66 pound cast steel anvil, and this a&h one is definitely heavier), (we only have a glass scale at home, so i dont really want to risk setting it on there to measure it), and roughly what the value would be on it if it was purchased outright. Again this was given to me for free, so my curiosity needs to know :P. Thanks in advance! Side View: Front feet: Logo:
  23. Hey everyone, long time creeper first time poster. Just looking for some help IDing this old anvil. It was in my dads shop (he’s a disel mechanic) for about 20 year and he doesn’t remember where it came from. Mostly used it to beat on stuff, but I think it may have been softened in the past Its got a good ring to it and about 60% rebound, but it also slightly deforms when you drop a 1inch ball bearing. Just looking for as much info as I can find. Was also considering taking it to a professional heat treating place to see if it can be rehardened.
  24. Hey there, I'm new here. Like many others, I too bought an anvil and need help identifying it. It may (or may not) have a little bit of history in it that could be interesting (or not). I am located in Germany and the anvil i bought is definitely British. The shape is a classic "london pattern", just like a Brooks with a relatively thick heel. I'm pretty sure it's cast steel since the only hole is from the bottom straight up and the ring is fairly high pitch and long lasting. The only markings i could find are stamped on the opposite side of where you would normally expect the makers mark. They read as follows: RH 1 1/4 cwt 1945 -> So far I found out that the cwt is the weight (around 63.5kg) and 1945 is the manufacture date. The broad arrow denotes it was owned by the British military. No idea what RH means. I could not find a manufacturer with those initials. Maybe it means Royal Hussars but no idea if those even used anvils; and then the question of who manufactured it would remain. Would be interesting to find out where it was made, who made it and how it ended up here, especially because of the manufacturing date.
  25. Hey guys! Found this anvil here in São Paulo, Brazil and need help identifying it. I know it weights around 200 Kg and that's all... Can you help me?
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