ThomasPowers

OTOH the clay is not important. I've case hardened using thin walled steel pipe filled with powdered carbon donors with wrought iron buried into it, One end was sealed and the other folded over a couple times---semi loosely so it wasn't subject to popping---tossed it in the forge and kept count of the hours at heat.

Somehow I feel that he doesn't have a shirt for my surgery, one rather common for men past a certain age...Good to see you back here and on the Green Side of the Sod!

Anything on the front of the feet under the horn? OLD is probably part of Solid Wrought found on a number of different anvil brands. Where are the pictures???

There are a number of sagas that mention taking a sword from a famous warriors tomb just for it's "special powers". With that I would think you might purposely damage a blade to prevent such thefts rather than preventing supernatural vengeance...example the sword Sköfnungr

Any differences in speed or kwh? What does JET say when you ask them about their product?

Someone ought to tell DeWalt that their equipment is being misrepresented on the web by this person and might cause a lot of folks to be very upset with them...

Ditto on the Bogousness of the "ad". Person that thinks that is a suitable knifemaker's grinder hasn't used one!

We were generally working with nickel silver and use the jeweler's hard solders: soft, intermediate, hard. I've used stay-brite for items not as critical as parts for multi-thousand dollar blades. Getting the right flux is important too and you do know that some brass alloys are very difficult to work with---like some of the bearing brasses and leaded brasses.

It's rather like designing a kitchen. The important bit is the work triangle: Forge to Anvil to Postvise. For general small work you would like the anvil to just be a turn or a turn and a step away from the forge, The post vise can be the same on the other side or if not used as much, another step out. For Larger Work you need to experiment with the size of stock you will be moving through the shop on a regular basis. My basic suggestion is to get some chalk and chalk out the dimensions on a driveway and cut some cardboard to the size of your equipment and then lay them in the chalked outline and move them around while maneuvering a piece of stock to see what works. (I would also suggest not bolting anything down till you have had a chace to actually use the shop a while.) Don't forget to take in account common wind directions and water flows when it rains! (My shop has the main 10'x10' roll up doors along the common wind flow in our valley, ventilation is generally NOT an issue! Helps with cooling too.) I built my shop in two goes (so far!) and have a clean shop and a dirty shop with a roll up door between them.

A press that can't complete it's stroke is a bit like a mechanical bomb with the "boom" parts usually right in your face. Have you looked at building a tire hammer?

Do I need a 16 passenger van or a dump truck or a commuter car or a 4WD? Kinda hard to answer questions like that with no information on what for and how much you need to use it. Kind of annoying to be asked questions that do not have enough information to be answered well. So the basic easy answer that many of us have gone with is: Use Propane!

quote: steel is the most poor of metals today due to recycled metals added in the smelting process" "This is why we can get single crystal turbine blades and aerospace grade metals and metals suitable for implants in human bodies..."

We would hard solder chapes and throats. A local community college jewelry making course is EXCELLENT training for doing such work.

I had a bud vase turner turn up at my smithy once. He wanted to make some curved shaft holders for carbide metal lathe bit inserts. So I stuck some appropriate stock in the forge, heated it up and stuck the end in the vise and told him to bend it to suit himself. He grabbed it and hunkered down on it and overbent it terribly! I told him to just haul up on it till he was happy, which he did. Next weekend he bought an anvil off of me...Since he was using the carbide inserts for the cutters and the springiness (YM) of pretty much all steels is quite similar and he should never be getting to the set point! He didn't need fancy alloys and persnickety heat treats.

My 91# A&H anvil tends to sit next to my 469# Fisher just because its thin heal is so useful for so many things!