ThomasPowers

If you have the ability to harden them; then annealing makes the work go much faster and easier---you don't have to worry about getting them too hot grinding for instance.

A 125# anvil and then adding a "striking anvil", when you need to go large and use sledges, would make a nice shop setup. (search on striking anvil for examples.) I don't think any climbing equipment I know of can't be made on a 125# anvil.

As I recall "Practical Blacksmithing" Richardson mentioned removing most of the bad threads and casting a Babbitt internal sleeve using the screw covered with a release agent as a mandrel. RF: this is an international forum here on the world wide web and so asking "where to get something" without telling at least what country you are in might get you answers from Finland or Australia.

So what is the high number? Also gauges are usually labeled as to what they show. (psi, bar, inches of wc, etc.)

Well were were going to the store yesterday for our weekly food run and I was going to pick up a can of silver spray paint to finish off the barbwire basket icicles; but when we got there, there was a full parking lot and a line outside. Both of us being in high risk groups we turned around and drove back home.

If you are using files to work files/rasps then you do need to anneal it to make it soft enough to file. If you are using a grinder you can just draw to the final temper temperature and grind from there making sure to keep the blade cool while working it. The no annealing method is good for people who don't have the capability to do a full heat treat; as tempering can be done with a standard kitchen oven. Heating above the critical temperature for hardening requires a forge or high temp furnace. I first ran across the just drawing to final tempering temp and grinding in "The Last Whole

Sounds like you need a hacksaw and a vise. Hacksaw to trim the stock to working size and a vise to help remove twists. I once made a nice little 1/4" sq stock fire rake for my travelling forge, until my wife decided that it was perfect for her to work the house's wood stove...I generally make then so I can hang them from the rim of the forge to keep them handy! Part of it being harder is the very light anvil, an 80# block of steel will work a lot better than a small chunk of rail, You have a nice anvil stand that will work with a larger improvised anvil!

I once got a 410# Trenton from a fellow who was tired of moving it as he was young and still in his wandering phase. He wasn't smithing but "might" someday. I traded him a 125# Peter Wright, a postvise screw and screwbox and US$100 boot; so I had about $200 in the deal. Starting out; a 100# anvil will generally work fine. A "real shop" is OK with a 150-175# anvil and over 200# were anvils usually used "industrially" with daylong use with strikers. Now if I had a chance to pick that one up at a decent price and it passed the ball bearing and ring tests I'd jump on it! The upsetting blo

Out here in the desert you don't need much of a finish as it's so dry. Just letting it rust slightly and then wire brush lightly will make a finish that can then be topped up by oil or wax. Of course if you live on the ocean shore that won't suffice!

Don't forget to mention how the deep nasal Covid-19 test is reminiscent of the ancient Egyptian mummifiers removing the brains through the nose with copper hooks!

OK what does the gauge go to?

A low miles coil spring from a car or truck will provide enough *good* steel for learning bladesmithing for a long time! Cut along a diameter to get a bunch of "(" pieces all the same alloy so you can learn how it forges and heat treats. A place that does lowers or lifts on vehicles will usually have a massive scrap pile of them. It's especially good if you can get ones that came directly from the dealership to the Lift/Lower shop as they won't have any fatigue cracks in them like 187K miles ones may have. I like an old paper yellow pages to find iron and steel dealers to ask if they se

Eating cooked eggs not in their shell and left out at room temperature for 8 hours is not generally suggested!

In Northern climes it can be more sublimation rather than evaporation.

You want the hot gasses to spend as much time in the forge as possible to transfer heat so putting them closer to the doors is contraindicated.