• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About ThomasPowers

  • Rank
    Senior Moment Member; Master Curmudgeon

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Central NM/El Paso TX Area, USA
  • Interests
    Iron Smelting


  • Location
    Central NM
  • Interests
    Iron smelting
  • Occupation
    bit herder
  1. I'd more likely suggest hot rolled as it's cheaper...
  2. I didn't say it was out of range just way heavy for me! I swing a 1500gm hammer in the shop but not as fast, as long and without the moment arm effects of a blade in combat.
  3. Beautiful work but way heavy for me.
  4. Why a square shell? Tubular is easier to line with kaowool. Not know what you plan to make using it makes it hard to suggest a shell. However if you lived in the USA I would suggest going to a "Party Store" and asking about empty Helium tanks--the light gauge sheetmetal ones not the welding tanks, all the places I know toss them out. They come in several sizes. Getting started you probably want a smaller one than the larger. Shoot I have a couple in the shed right now; stop by and pick one up! (I tend to grab them whenever I see them at the scrapyard or in a dumpster.)
  5. How many years of use would it take to remove 1/32"? That's what you are removing from the anvil. Now what happens if the next 8 owners all take 1/32" off? Your 1/2" face plate is now 1/2 it's thickness + what use wear it had. It's your anvil and you can do what you want with it; we just like people to wait until they understand smithing before they do irreversible changes to their equipment (Not totally irreversible, I know a smith who when he was just getting started had his anvil milled FLAT and sharp edged and ended up not having enough faceplate left to use. Now he paid good money for the anvil and paid more good money to have it destroyed and then kept it unused for 20 years until we had an anvil repair day. A professional Welder spent over 5 hours building up a usable face on it using industrial welding equipment; luckily for free though he donated for the consumables. If we had warned him in time he not only would have saved the money spent destroying and repairing his anvil he would have had 20 years of using it!)
  6. I'm guessing that brake drum forge is only mentioned on this site several hundred times. This was a test to see if you could take a term and do your own research rather rely on other people. As for metal casting it's not certified, it's trained. I got my training at an out of hours brass casting class held at a local university's fine arts department. Anyplace local with a community college that offers jewelry making classes? (This is especially useful for folks that want to make knives as they offer training in working non-ferrous metals). Red hot steel, if you drop it heads toward the center of the earth. Molten metal can splash or worse hit water and create a steam explosion flinging molten metal for yards!
  7. I use plain borax from a grocery store and mix in some roach powder that is 99% boric acid (generally I use around 3 borax to 1 boric acid)
  8. Ranchmanben; was that piece heat treated any originally? (what was the carbon content of it, I've run across a lot of old implement steel that ranged from 1050 to 1080---back before some of the weird new alloys were used.)
  9. How are you going about looking for info/stuff? If you've only used the internet I wouldn't be surprised.
  10. Use it and see! I'd check it for hardness/brittleness first though.
  11. Piling has been known since Roman times and so I was being a bit loose with terminology; Mea Maxima Culpa!
  12. And everyone means EVERYONE; last anvil I found was owned by a lady in my church in her 90's; not who you might guess would have one!
  13. however if you will be working a lot of RR spikes the modern ones are 9/16" IIRC
  14. I have an anvil missing the entire heel but with a good face and decent horn. I paid US$40 for it to a farrier. Paying top used price for a badly damaged anvil is not a good deal IMNSHO! Now that hornless one I'd snatch up and rebuild into a medieval looking anvil for medieval demo's! Might try refacing it the old way. Doesn't look like the remaining face plate is thick enough to do much work on it.
  15. Pretty easily: there are two main methods: heat the face to critical leaving the rest of the body lagging in temp and quench the entire anvil. Or Heat the entire anvil to critical and quench only the face---harder to control.