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About ThomasPowers

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    Senior Moment Member; Master Curmudgeon
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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Central NM/El Paso TX Area, USA
  • Interests
    Iron Smelting


  • Location
    Central NM
  • Interests
    Iron smelting
  • Occupation
    bit herder
  1. Well you want the height to be the correct height for YOU and what YOU are doing; perhaps reading over the *many* threads on proper anvil height could help you explore this in depth. Do you have access to welding? If so think about making a three legged support for your chunk of pipe as floors seldom are perfectly flat. As for suspending it: Weld a bottom cover onto the pipe, place the fork lift tine in it wedge it in an good upright position with some scrap metal and fill with sand. (sand will help dampen noise) Now if you don't have access to welding or prefer wood working it's quite easy to design an anvil holder/stand built up from 2x or 4x4 stock either glued up or lagged or through bolted; or a combination of methods. Several folks have posted nice examples you might want to search on that as well.
  2. Arm and Hammer anvils are known for them
  3. OK are there undulations on the underside of the heel?
  4. The base may have been cast with the top forged. Are their any numbers on the front of the foot below the horn? If so what and on which side?
  5. Funny many of the tools that can be found at my place predate the building of the house by 100 or more years, (some 200 years). So it could be an old tool that made to move to the "new" place. Also you seem to be having a dichotomy between hand forged and commercial/factory made when factories often employed large numbers of blacksmiths to forge items---by hand. I think it's real wrought iron. The sloppy weld is probably hand made and might be a repair---my 1897 Sears Roebuck catalog has a motto in it to the effect of "Every Farmer His Own Blacksmith" which does not indicate that they would be *good* blacksmiths... I've found a lot of wrought iron used in "cheap" repairs to farm items during the great depression as folks used whatever they could mine from their scrap piles.
  6. When you hammer in a bevel, the side you are hammering on gets longer while the back remains much the same length; so the blade curves away from the bevel side. This is a problem for many people; luckily it can be easily dealt with by several methods: one is to pre bend it the other way---towards the bevel side so that when you hammer out the bevel it straightens; the second way is to take the hot blade and set it bevel side up on the anvil and tap the edge so that the back moves down till it touches the anvils face---you wouldn't think this would work but it does! (best done multiple times as you work the bevel that one major time at the very end!) Of course you can do a combination of both methods...
  7. I kludged together a holder for my hot chisel Saturday and used rivets made from nails; had some nice 20 penny nails from a truckload of dunnage block firewood. I would stick the wood blocks in the postvise and then use a crowbar to pull the nails out and throw them in a kitty litter bucket. Makes great cheap rivets, just cut to size, insert and hammer the other head into existence. (Old SCA armour making trick...)
  8. Incised twist towel racks come to mind...
  9. I recommended "Zen Flesh, Zen Bones" to my apprentice and now he goes around praising my "grandmotherly kindness" towards him...
  10. Charcoal needs a deep fire, combine that with the fact that all the charcoal on top of the forge will end up burning; but only that in the stack over the tuyere will actually contribute to heating your metal and you can see that that forge is very inefficient for charcoal. Look up the Tim Lively washtub forge for an example of how to adjust it to use less charcoal to provide more heat. A hair dryer will put out way more air than you need; how are you wasting air to keep the flow down?
  11. Look into the Tim Lively washtub forge.
  12. two items with a smithing focus: Hofi uses tank penetrators (pre DU) to make punches and drifts from and I have the penetrator nose cone from a Ballistic Missile that I use as a cone mandrel (Fellow showed up at Quad-State with a flatbed load of ones that had failed Q/A...) Also an old cord driven dental drill for knife work.
  13. Yes; use just the right amount of air at the right pressure.
  14. I've got to quibble a bit: I know the price of every anvil I've bought since 1980 and I don't think a "collector" is interested in profit; a dealer is interested in resale...A collector tends to hoard...
  15. The biggest problem most folks have using charcoal is that they are trying to use it just like coal and it ain't! Tweak your forge for charcoal and it will work a lot better than just trying to load charcoal in a coal forge!