Glenn

Have you contacted James Johnson Anyang USA distributor with photos and ask his advice?

Are people going to pay more because of the brand of anvil you use ? Are they going to pay more if you take an extra heat or two while at the forge ? Or are they purchasing a product that you are proud enough to sign with your touchmark ?

You may want to consider this before you decide on your anvil height. Anvil height, how can you tell if it is the right height

This is one place tongs can be used. Make a pig tail and a couple of wraps, heat a section of stock, then grab the spiral with the tongs or pliers and use the existing spiral as a form to bend the heated stock. The resulting spiral is tight and uniform. Only bend the stock when it is hot, soft and pliable.

A good place to look for improvised anvils at little or no cost is A collection of improvised anvils If you are looking for a London pattern anvil then The new standard for anvils The gas forge sections will give you a bunch of good information. Burners 101 and Forges 101 As you already have a forge look into the Frosty T burner T Burner Illustrated Directions As to tools, you need something to hit with, something it hit on, and something to hit. Yes it is that simple. Look up and use TPAAAT. You will need to look up the Indiana Blacksmith Assoc. and go to the meetings. You will learn more than you can ever imagine in just a few hours.

Before you do anything, build a platform that increases YOUR height in relation to the anvil and try it out for say 40 hours of hammer time. Digging a hold for the legs is an easy fix. You can always adjust the depth of the hole. Best to be sure that is what you want before you start cutting.

Easiest way to lower an anvil is to stand on a platform. If the anvil is adjusted often, build a box, fill it with sand, and then add or subtract sand between the base of the box and the bottom of the anvil. Usually one fellow working with one anvil sets the anvil at a convenient height for them. Depending on the project it may need to be adjusted for that project, and then returned to the original height. If they make those projects on a regular basis, then two different anvil stands will solve the problem or two different anvils. Jymm Hoffman (PA) used wooden clogs, with horse shoes nailed to the bottom as ware plates, when in his blacksmith shop.

Thibeau made an adjustable anvil from a heavy piece of metal and jacks. Worked well for him.

We tried that on IForgeIron and it was not used as much as we had hoped, and was dropped.

Looks similar to a plastic kitchen tool the wife used to break up hamburger in the skillet.

Build a HOT table to put beside the forge. Anything hot goes on the HOT table. Anything coming off the hot table goes into a bucket of water, then into your BARE hand to be placed on a work table usually on the other side of the anvil. If the object is still steaming and hissing when it comes out of the water, consider another dip before you put it into your bare hand. (grin) This way there are NO surprises and no one gets burned. Someone can pick up a warm piece of metal but nothing you did not hold in your bare hand first. If tongs, hammers, etc are put on the hot table, they go into the water, and then into your bare hand. Rules are rules.

Look for a barrel that contained a known substance that does not cause problems.

Tool handles should be long enough to keep you safe and still have control of the tool.

Have you tried Philip Simmons Artist-Blacksmith Guild of South Carolina, or North Carolina Chapter of ABANA? Also try any blacksmithing group in your area. They will know where to get coal.

The lay out on the floor is a good idea. That way you can draw a perfect circle. Mark the length of the circle segment and practice to find where and how long you want the twist to be. Clamp the segment in a vise. The metal is small enough to try twisting the metal cold. Make 10 segments and then choose which 4 match.