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I Forge Iron


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About Glenn

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    . State of Confusion


  • Location
    . State of Confusion

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  1. Thank you for the kind words. The site is set up to be helpful as we want you to succeed. Thank the moderators for keeping things running smoothly. Figure out what you want to do and how large a forge or heat source you need for those projects. Run the costs so you will have something to compare against.
  2. Just because it is on Youtube does not mean it is good or even correct information.
  3. If the vise it tight, there most likely is a reason. Look for any signs of wear or debris being wiped off the parts. Measure the tightness zones and try to relate that to the problem. See if you can find any misalignments or bent parts. Keep everything lubricated, to avoid damage, until you can find the cause.
  4. Maybe related: When ever you weld, always attach the negative as close to the work as is practicable. If you attach the negative to a metal work table the arc will jump from the negative lead to the table, from the table to the vise, from the base of the vise to the screw, from the screw to the jaw, and from the jaw to the work being clamped. That is an electric arc at each point, which may cause pitting. Weld on a project resting on the metal table. When your finished, the project is stuck to the table by the electrical arc jumping from the table to the project. Ask a mechan
  5. When time to quit, I rake the fire out and let it die while I clean up for the end of the day. Then I scoop everything that WAS hot up and put it into a 5 gallon bucket of water. Remember to empty the ash dump. I sleep well at night knowing that everything that was hot is now covered by 2 inches of water. Next day, give the contents of the bucket a swirl with your hand and the coal and coke will rise to the top so you and pick it up and out. The ash, clinker, etc will sink to the bottom. Pour the water into another bucket for reuse, and dispose of the ash, clinker, etc. Lay the coa
  6. It may be a heat number and purchase date. If you have metal with heat numbers or documentation, put it on BOTH ends of the metal. Be sure to replace the information when you cut the end off for a project.
  7. Nothing is perfect the first time. It is good as a learning tool in order to make the next one better, and so on and so on, until you have enough practice and knowledge to make one that you like. Use that one for a while and then make improvements. I followed the instruction on how to make a guillotine fuller exactly. Two weeks of light use and it was unusable, as in destroyed. Knowing where the weak points were in the design, and knowing how the things was used, version #2 was built and 3 days later it was on to version #3. Much stronger (read overkill strong) and with modification
  8. We need more information. Are you going to make horse shoes, do ornamental ironwork, industrial blacksmithing, farm blacksmithing, general blacksmithing, make knives, etc. What is your budget? If you are just starting A collection of improvised anvils, Anvils: A beginner buyers guide, The new price standard for anvils, List of makers currently producing anvils, and other topics should give you some answers.
  9. While you are working on the those anvil hours, look up and apply a little TPAAAT to the project. You have time. (grin).
  10. She is on the list.
  11. There is plenty of usable face on the anvil. Leave the holes alone while you use the anvil for a year (2000 hours). By then you will have time to find someone that is competent enough to properly repair anvils and decide if the anvil actually needs to be repaired.
  12. The post has been in the archive since 2005.
  13. A roll of surveyor's plastic flagging tape (1 inch x 150 feet) takes up very little space in the glove box of a car or backpack. Tied between two points it be easily noticed as a warning or a locator signal.
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