edennis

So I just received the original (broken) hydraulic in the mail from the guy I bought the bandsaw from. He said it came with the machine not functioning and he just took it off and used the saw manually. i don't know enough about hydraulics to immediately know what is wrong. There is a single needle valve in the line. The piston easily moved up and down no matter if the needle valve was closed or open. I opened up one port in the cylinder to see how much fluid was inside and some, maybe a couple teaspoons of fluid came out. A small amount of fluid could be seen at the base of the piston as it was raised. I assume one of the following problems is the issue: -The cylinder is leaking and no longer had enough fluid to create pressure. -There is some sort of interior gasket that is allowing fluid between the two chambers (i don't know enough about the inside to know if this is likely) -The needle valve is broken and letting fluid pass easily without resistance. I have all the dimensions of the cylinder in case anyone is interested. Also, how much fluid is SUPPOSED to be inside the cylinder? And how does one go about refilling? Does it need to be forced in or can the fluid enter passively with a funnel? Thanks! Eric

Hmmm, i like it! So many ideas.

Cool, that's superhelpful. I think it's becoming more clear in my mind how this works. Thanks you

Ah! That makes sense. Cool. Well, I should receive the old cylinder soon and if I can't fix that one I at least will have the dimensions for buying a new one. What sort of needle valve is needed to work with the hydraulic (against, forgive my ignorance when it comes to this kind of stuff)? Can you buy ones that both have a micro-adjustment and an on/off lever?

Jeremy, I don't quite follow- where would the sliding weight be on the machine. Is it assuming a working cylinder already in place? Also, the guy I bought it from is going to send me the old cylinder that doesn't work. Maybe I can figure out what's wrong with it?

Thanks for the comments and advice. And thanks for searching the internet for me! swedefiddle- can you go into more detail about how to make one? Where would one get the piston? I don't know all the lingo, but am always up for learning by trying it myself. It would be appreciated. I also found this site which seems to have parts specifically by brand: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Grizzly/ Thanks, Eric

I just bought a used grizzly G9742 horizontal bandsaw. This one: http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9742/parts The problem is, it no longer has the hydraulic cylinder that allows the saw to automatically lower. Buying a new one from Grizzly apparently is almost $200.00!!! Does anyone know of a place to buy cheaper parts that will fit this machine? It would be MUCH appreciated. Best, Eric

Hmmm, food for thought. Thanks for the reply. Eric

So after about a month of use, the high alumina kiln shelf has split into 3 pieces and the molten borax seems to be eating into it. I was under the impression it would be more resistant to both of these issues. Any thoughts or insights? Thanks, Eric

haha, true, true. I'll give it a try. It's just so sensitive, and the problem is that the when I tighten down the hex screw it shifts the arm slightly, so where I align the arm before tightening the screw, and after, are different.

I bought one from an old knife maker who was working in the 70's and 80's. It's great except I really dislike the round end on the tool arms. It means every time I need to change a tool I have to grab the arm with a wrench and tweak it while it's running. Bader sells an "adapter arm" that allows for BIII tools to be used on the B2. It works great. What is the "od bearing change" you are referring to? I'm curious. Same experience here with customer service. They answer any question I ask and I receive shipments from the within 1 or 2 business days. And the still sell parts for the B2 even though they no longer manufacture the machine! That's the best part of all!

I was thinking of maybe mixing some plistix and spreading into the cracks, but I think you are right. I am just going to ignore them for now. Thanks for response.

So, what do you guys think? Normal cracking with expansion or an error in application on my part? Should I worry about it and try to patch it? If so, what's the best method? Or ignore it?

I've used the whisper baby. I really wasn't a fan to be honest. The burner left much to be desired. And getting things in and out of the little port holes was super awkward to say the least- partially because in the one I used there was a lip behind the door that small stuff would fall behind. It might not be too bad with some modifications though.

There is no space between the two. It is completely welding around the opening. The heat is just transferring through. maybe I'll try cutting the top part off and coming up with a new solution. Thanks, Eric