edennis

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About edennis

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    Advanced Member

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  • Website URL
    roundhouseblacksmith.com

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  • Location
    Southern Vermont
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Rock Climbing, Running, Drawing, Eating

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  1. I'll look into it. I know very little about tin coating. Thanks!
  2. Thanks for looking into it more. It makes me wonder how fast copper will dissolve to dangerous levels in acidic food (obviously PH dependent somewhat). Obviously i'm not going to can tomatoes in a copper vessel, but what about using a copper ladle to scoop warm tomato soup? It appears that the recommended daily maximum intake is 900 micrograms. I wonder how fast this quantity will accumulate in food?
  3. Thanks for the reply: This is what I've been using from McMaster-Carr: Lead free, but hard to find other information on complete composition. Brushed Weldable Marine-Grade 464 Brass Sheets Yield Strength: 58,000 psi Hardness: Rockwell B80 (Medium) Temper: H01 (1/4 Hard) Heat Treatable: No Specifications Met: ASTM B171 One side of these sheets has a brushed finish with grain lines running in one direction to mask fingerprints. The brushed side comes covered with a protective peel-off film. A lead-free alternative to 485 brass, 464 brass offers good weldability, strength, and wear resistance. It’s widely used for marine hardware, pump and propeller shafts, and rivets. This site: https://elginfasteners.com/resources/materials/material-specifications/naval-brass-464/ is showing the following composition for 464 brass: Hopefully similar to what Mcmaster is selling... Component Wt. % Cu 59 – 62 Fe Max 0.1 Pb Max 0.2 Sn 0.5 – 1 Zn 39.25
  4. Hello, I'm wondering about the safety of using a brass spatula in the kitchen. I generally avoid brass due to its zinc content, but I'm unsure if the temperatures reached during, say, cooking an egg pose a danger in terms of ingesting zinc. Anyone with more knowledge of the "fine" metals? Thanks in advance. -Eric
  5. Thanks for the responses! Not gonna bite on this one, though it's temping if only to save a cool old machine. I believe the asking price was 900 or something around there.
  6. I'm looking for info on this lathe: It's advertised as a "Rockwell hand turret lathe". I'm wondering if these are considered decent machines and what a price point might be for a used one? Thanks for any leads on information. -Eric one more picture:
  7. Any possibility these are going to be republished? I'm guessing no, but figured I'd throw it out there.
  8. I fellow is selling a 25 LG for $2500. He says it's in working condition but needs a little TLC. Here is what he says about it: "In terms of what it need right away: A better clutch spring, the current spring is worn out and when you take your foot off the treadle the hammer keeps running a bit. The long term things it could use is a new pitman arm conversion, and to have the pulley sent to little giant for a rebuild service, it is not really necessary, but it would run a little smoother if that was done. I don't have any other dies, but these are in really good condition. New dies and many replacement parts are available for these hammers from little giant. the sowblock dovetail has had some repairs done that appear to be holding up fine, I am told they were finished 2.5 years ago, and that new Babbitt bearings were also poured at that time. Overall the hammer has good potential, and is currently running, just a little quirky." Trying to decide if I should jump on it. I don't know a ton about what some of these fixes might involve/cost. Thoughts? Thank!
  9. edennis

    Famco 4 price

    Yeah, I know- but good for other stuff
  10. edennis

    Famco 4 price

    Does anyone have advice on if $300 is a fair price for a "Famco 4" arbor press as seen here? Thanks advance!
  11. Thanks for the reply. I believe a different blower model has the mechanical speed control, while mine is strictly electronic. If you scroll down on the specs page for the blower is shows different models having different types of speed control. I'm pretty sure the sig-gen is compatible since someone over on the bladesmithforum has used these exact pieces together- but you never know. It feels like the wiring is incorrect to me, but I can't think of any other configuration to put them in. I'm scared to try hooking the blue/red wires to the AC input as I don't want to fry the blower (hoping I already havn't!). Maybe the sig-gen is busted... but I'm out of ideas at this point.
  12. It's running on it's own 120V AC line- but it has a DC control panel that accepts 0-10vdc for speed control. This is the input that is acting up.
  13. Well, with the blue (low supposedly) connected to "OV" and red (high supposedly) connected to "0-10V" the blower actually does slow down from 10V down to about just under 7V. After that it just turns off... bad blower electronics? bad signal generator? I'm baffled.
  14. woops, the previous post is supposed to read" I tried hooking up the blower and I'm having trouble. I'm wondering if the blower's electronics are shot. The only way I can get the blower to run is in the first configuration. However, it only runs at full blast and the sig-gen dial does nothing until I turn it way down and then the blower cuts out and wont go on again until the power plug is turned on and off again. With the blue wire on "OV" and the red on "0-10v" the motor just starts to run and then cuts out.
  15. I would rather figure it out on my own- but in this case I really know very little about this stuff and a push in the right direction can be really helpful for me to even know where to start looking.first configuration. However, it only runs at full blast and the sig-gen dial does nothing until I turn it way down and then the blower cuts out and wont go on again until the power plug is turned on and off again. With the blue wire on "OV" andthered on "0-10v" the motor just starts to run and then cuts out. Something doesn't seem right. Thoughts?