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I Forge Iron

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  2. Do you have adjustable recoil pads/buffers on the carriage to prevent it from slamming into the rear of the mount? Very cool toy. Since it is rifled do you use shot that will take the rifling? If so, how is the accuracy? "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."
  3. If you have trouble getting up to temperature, drill out the orifice. Not required with a forced air burner. You may also want to investigate a longer mixing chamber.
  4. This is my gas forge. When i started sevenish years ago, this forum taught me anything i needed to know. Thanks a bunch everyone. I have now finished my newest forge. Hopefully it lasts. Roughly 1 1/2" thick cast with 1" wool wrap for added measure. Measures 10" wide on the floor by 8 " tall by 14" deep. I made the ribbon burner as many others have. With my 27 hole (i beleive) at 5/16", it has a 2" opening in which the air and fuel are stuffed. The gas orifice is 1/16". I have yet to fully bring it up to temp.
  5. In Wisconsin there's this dish called Friday Night Casserole which is just Monday through Thursday's leftovers layered in a pyrex with cheese and crushed up ritz and baked until the cheese melts. My favorite art of Lent was not having Friday Night Casserole because we weren't allowed to eat meat on Fridays.
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  7. Correct running pressure has too many variables. What size burner is your forge equipped with? Burner size makes a huge difference in regards to fuel economy as does size of the forge.
  8. "Looks" like a hay budden to me. Other detailed pictures may tell a different story. I wouldn't worry about it and get to work using it. Keep track of the crack or seam, and if it gets worse Then worry about it. In that area it could be safely repaired anyway so no worries in my opinion. Cute kitty. I miss my forge cat Boots who passed a bit ago in november of 2018.
  9. Here is my 3 inch rifled howitzer on a pivot mount. I have a coastal battery of six artillery pieces that overlooks a tiny harbor here on Puget Sound. Too much fun. There is a gun range 50 miles from me, but there is a lot of public land between here and there, so i use public land.
  10. Hay Budden anvils usually had the name on the opposite side from your first picture. Look for remnants of Brooklyn NY and of course Hay Budden or a weight stamp. Another clue is the underside of the base. Here is a picture of our HB.
  11. For me the best blower for a coal/charcoal forge is the old hand cranked blowers from Champion, Buffalo and many others. In your area there should be plenty available.
  12. I’ve seen hinges like those before but I only had one horse shoe so I copied a design I saw on a YouTube video. The hinge was from a old Barn I believe. Once I get more I pan on trying some of those style as they seem a bit better.
  13. Thanks guys. I have been right out straight with it. I have had the NEB crew here 2 saturdays in a row and a local smith has been coming nearly daily and helping since I put the word out. Dick L. has been coming nearly daily and he is super great worker offering guidance when needed like when getting close to close with the manbasket and such. Also it's great being able to bounce ideas and such off someone who has built this type of building as his own shop was built many year ago. The liner was fully installed this past Saturday while the others in the gang sorte
  14. Yesterday
  15. Thanks for the thoughts. I haven’t been able to find a serial number on it, but the shape, location of handling holes, and stamped number 3 under the horn are what lead me to believe it is a Hay Budden. I’ve been trying to get ahold of a copy of AIA so I can learn more about it. Thanks again
  16. If it's the same mine the BOA gets our coal, which was almost clinker free, they have opened a new vein and this last batch we got produces a lot of clinker comparatively. Once they have been mining it a while I hope the vein improves. When using the forge for about an hour today with the new coal, the clinker was about the size of a tennis ball.
  17. Silver does cast easily. It can be harder to reprocess steel practice pieces---which is why my teaching pieces are all things hard to mess up beyond usability.
  18. If the ring is still good then the crack doesn't penetrate much.
  19. Welcome aboard Steve... Knowing where in the world you are located will help, along with pictures of the anvil both sides and the underside of the base. Without that we will only be guessing. The numbers are the stone weight when manufactured 135 pounds.
  20. Wow, I truly had no idea about people using this stuff as decorations. An anvil in the yard... I suppose it could have a Disney type theme going for it. But at a regular house, I have trouble imagining it. Thanks for the info it explains a lot.
  21. Welcome aboard, if you put your location in your profile, you may be surprised how many members are near you and a lot of answers require knowing where in the world you are located. As far as the question, I wouldn't worry about it and just put that beauty to work. I would say the crack is from when the anvil was made and I see the weld seam behind the crack. It has survived all these years. There should be a serial number on the foot under the horn which will give a date range of when it was made.
  22. Lol, if your wife won't mind the linseed oil, turps, and beeswax smoke off coating her oven. Someone may know the temp. I have read it, but basically I've learned by trial and error and no thermometer. The black heat range is a large one. I have refinished quite a bit of old hardware etc. Thus my suggestion to refinish the whole thing. Take your time, at this low temp you cannot hurt it. Learning is priceless. I've done it with a torch, both rosebud and welding tip. It works, but it's a lot harder. The heat is just too localized and that red shows up far more often. It's
  23. Thanks for the suggestions. The red came from after heating them on the forge before bending them. I didn't brush it off prior to applying the finish which I should have. I will try and wire brush it off and then refinish it tomorrow. Do you think putting them in my kitchen oven at 500 degrees would be sufficient for uniform heat? I won't get consistency on the forge. Thanks!
  24. My feathers and wedges was tongue in cheek, but a hammer and chisel does work, like stash said. At least it works on river rock, marble and granite in my area. I'm not a stone mason, but done enough to have a little experience.
  25. Nice. The red is because you did not have a consistent heat when you applied the hot oil. It looks like it was too hot and smoked off. Do you have a forge? The red could be residual rust. A consistent heat may deal with it. A full red, wire brush, then as it cools to a black, oil it. It will smoke off to a grey if too hot and look wet if too cold. It takes a bit of practice to get a uniform finish. You may want to refinish the whole hinge. And before applying the oil, don't hesitate to hand wire brush.
  26. Thanks for the suggestions. I think his "make a jillion leaves" suggestion has more to do with learning hammer control and that sort of thing. He trained under Brian Brazeal and I guess that was a big part of his apprenticeship. Honestly I'm down for anything. I just want to learn, and maybe not have a giant pile of unnecessary stuff lying around when I'm done. I do have quite a bit of metalworking experience with precious/semi-precious metals, as I took classes in that sort of craft. I realize it's a world away from forging iron, since you mostly hammer silver, gold, copper, and such co
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