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  2. It shows signs on being punched on the underside of the heel, so it should be post 1830.
  3. Looks pretty nice from where I'm sitting, and a killer deal to boot. The stamped weight 1-2-5 translates to 173# starting weight, give or take a bit. I never heard of the mfg, but there were a lot of them around in the 19th century. I wouldn't be concerned about the delam.I'm wondering if the pritchel hole is original (punched) or added later (drilled). Anyway, use it in good health. Steve
  4. Slag we call that type of door a storm door. I have not seen a commercial building with one. Usually houses do.. My idea as its is a 8" frame it will allow for reskinning with some pink foam and a layer of metal over it once installed. It is currently only a cored door with a 90min fire rating.
  5. How do you calculate volume of a cube in square inches? Wouldn't square inches be area and cubic inches be volume? I figure you either know something I don't (entirely possible/likely) or it was a typo. Just trying to clear it up for those who come after. If you plan to do long twists or something similar, you may need to be able to heat 15 inches of steel at the same time. Otherwise it's pretty much a waste of space and fuel. Assuming you will be using a hand hammer, you will be hard pressed to work more than about 6 inches of hot steel before it cools to the point where it need
  6. Ah, shoot, I just read my reply and was embarrassed by my 8-mile round trip. Wow a WHOLE 4 miles to town? Ah, how terrible. Actually, just a typo... it’s an 80-mile round trip. Yes, I do make the drive as required, but especially now with the Covid spike, I’m personally less comfortable spending a lot of time chatting with people I don’t know. It is nearly impossible to gain the insights online, and even difficult over the phone. In person is best I agree, but just not practical for me at this time. Other readers may feel differently. It may be that many retailers carry Morgan prod
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  8. Rasps are generally not the same alloy as a machinist file since wood and hooves are not nearly as hard as steel is. I talked with the metals guy at Nicholson file, and although he would not give me the exact alloy they used, he said that treating a machinist file like W1 for heat treating was a good bet. He said their machinist files are a higher grade of steel than the wood files and rasps due to the above statement.
  9. If it were my money (which it's not...) I would start by finding a big chunk of steel to hammer on. Take some small percentage of that $1200 and use it on other things you may need to get started. Fuel, hand tools, supplies for building a forge, etc. Put the rest in your preferred hidey (sp?) hole and add to it every once in a while. Take several months learning hammer control and basic techniques on your improvised anvil and keep an eye out for a suitable shop anvil (used or new). I spent my first 6-8 months working on some ~3" round chunk of hardened steel I found at the scrap yard.
  10. You can get an Anvil Brand Legend 120# anvil for $715, and JHM makes some good anvils. I have one of their 125# Journeyman anvils that I got from a retired farrier. It is kind of a cross between a farrier pattern, and a smithing pattern in my eyes. I loaned it to a friend who used it to make "Damascus" billets for knives, and he remarked that it was a good anvil to work on. They are cast ductile iron, and the one I have still looks new. As for size, everything I have done so far could have been done on the JHM easily, but my main anvil is a 260# Fisher. Why? A few reasons, but namely it
  11. Thomas: Also being in several high risk groups we have been using the Walmart pickup service and it has been working pretty well. It is something of a hassle to select and shop on line but when you get there you just call in to the number on the sign and tell them your name and that you are in bay #X and in a few minutes they bring it out (while masked) and put it in the back of your car. Very little human contact and risk. In fact, I am going in to do a pick up in about 15 minutes. I've also been using curb side pickup for other stores when I can. "By hammer and hand all arts d
  12. If you have the ability to harden them; then annealing makes the work go much faster and easier---you don't have to worry about getting them too hot grinding for instance.
  13. A 125# anvil and then adding a "striking anvil", when you need to go large and use sledges, would make a nice shop setup. (search on striking anvil for examples.) I don't think any climbing equipment I know of can't be made on a 125# anvil.
  14. In cold climates double doors are usually used to retain the heat. The outer door and frame could be made of wood. That would protect the aluminum door from the wet, and weather. SLAG.
  15. The Holland #125 or the smaller Hoffman would both be excellent anvils for most single-person work. If you're planning to work a lot with strikers, then you may need a larger anvil. Holland also does offer a 190lb in a London-ish pattern, but it costs $1200 before shipping. Their 140lb London pattern is another option.
  16. Frosty, I have an aluminum one on the back door and it has eaten the concrete.. LIterally eaten it. It does wet so think maybe that has something to do with it.. So, yes I am concerned.. And yes attached to the concrete or attached to the steel frame. Ideally it is a low R value door so having it seal well would be at least a step up. Do you remember what you ended up using for the Brush seal?
  17. Hi Thomas, Thank you. I will try both methods. One end of the file was already heated to non magnetic, so I will cut the rasp in two parts. One I will anneal the other one I will draw to the final temper. I have a 3x21 belt grinder, which is mostly used for woodworking, with grits starting from 40. I will give it a try. The annealed part I will do with hand files. Maybe I find some time tomorrow to do the rough shaping with the angle grinder. For the further documentation and questions I will start a thread in the knife making section. Greetings Tim
  18. Thank you everyone for the responses. I know $1600 is a ton of money to spend on a new hobby. I was thinking I would spend $1000 or less which is still a lot, but I came across this one locally. I wish I had more information on the used one but all I have is the picture. Assuming the anvil checks out what is the most I should pay for it? Or, If I bumped the limit up to $1200 including shipping what new anvil would everyone recommend? I like the Holland and Hoffman anvils but they don't offer one in the 150-200# range.
  19. Yeah, even DI doesn't specify Morgan for any of the refractories they carry or use. The office guys I talk to are both really into fire and we hit it off pretty well. . . in PERSON. I brought in the rubbed, IFB I'd been buying there, it really shocked them. And once AGAIN I described what king of temps my propane forge reached and to illustrate I showed them the vitrified 3,000f hard split fire brick I was using as the forge floor. The IFB I'd been buying until then was only rated to 1,200f. what they have to withstand as the outer / insulating liner in boilers. Certainly NOT the close to 2,8
  20. If it ever got loose I imagine it would eventually die by it's own hand, cutting its power cord or becoming unplugged.
  21. I assume you're referring to attaching it to the concrete. Yes? Aren't they intended for concrete contact? If you can't find out or it isn't how about giving that part of the floor an early double or triple coat of epoxy concrete finish? Do they even make stainless concrete screws? Give them a little dollop of diaelectric grease when you drive them. Use rubber seal screws? Heck, if it's too much work to get them to last, buy a couple replacements up front, thresholds are wear items anyway. I wish I had a good answer but its something I've never thought about. I didn't install
  22. I see a lot of 2600ºF-rated insulating fire brick carried by many sources, but few specify Morgan. What I was really after was some experience or advice regarding other manufacturers, and if one 2600 brick is basically as good as another. I did finally this comment regarding K-26 and specifying Morgan Thermal Ceramics on page 37 of the Forges 101 thread. That seems to suggest that perhaps not all K26 IFBs are created equal. And yes, for the record, in my small town, when I call around and ask for Insulating Fire Brick, I find that they either don't know the manufacturer, or they tel
  23. As I recall "Practical Blacksmithing" Richardson mentioned removing most of the bad threads and casting a Babbitt internal sleeve using the screw covered with a release agent as a mandrel. RF: this is an international forum here on the world wide web and so asking "where to get something" without telling at least what country you are in might get you answers from Finland or Australia.
  24. I am with P-nut on this. $1600 is a lot of money. I would not be hesitant with info here either. There are a lot of people here who know a lot about anvils, i am not one of them, the more info you give to them the better they can determine if it is worth the money.
  25. So what is the high number? Also gauges are usually labeled as to what they show. (psi, bar, inches of wc, etc.)
  26. How do you install a threshold on z steel commercial door? The thresholds that I have seen are aluminum and aluminum and concrete do not play nicely together. Do I put plastic under it? Stainless screws? Updated photo.
  27. Well were were going to the store yesterday for our weekly food run and I was going to pick up a can of silver spray paint to finish off the barbwire basket icicles; but when we got there, there was a full parking lot and a line outside. Both of us being in high risk groups we turned around and drove back home.
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