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  3. Smoggy, Thanks but I'm not on Facebook, I have found the post but can't contact him as i'm not a member.
  4. I just had to repost this one because it made my morning coffee squirt out my nose...
  5. Aspects of your concept anvil exist though, I believe they were specialized anvils. Pics of one with the face and table forming similar angles as your asymmetrical heal was just posted recently in an ID the anvil request. I think your fuller section is redundant I use the horn for a fuller more than anything else, compensating for the taper's effect on the work is easy, just reverse directions frequently. I think lengthening and extending the taper of the horn would be more useful. The horn on my Soderfors is more conical than most and I find I like that aspect when using it like a mandrel cone. If anything I think I might like a true cone but have never had a chance to give one a try. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. It went pretty well Mark. As always there is a LOT going on the last weekend of June so attendance wasn't great but more people stopped and asked questions and I got to talk almost enough. Weather was very nice, light overcast and temps in the mid 60s with a light breeze. Dry cool and pleasant. The iron pour was it's usual success a number of guys cast swage blocks, I'm really looking forward to seeing how they turn out. Sean couldn't make it this year so things got slow around my anvil while I took breaks. All in all I think it went pretty well. How was your weekend? Jer
  7. Brother I don't know how you get most places. I do have to say you're willingness to share the interesting bits of some of those places is pretty darned cool. Just because a forge was bad in it's youth doesn't mean it's worthless does it? I mean really, I think a couple are already serving life sentences I don't want to crush the dream of them finding useful employment and maybe moving out. Frosty The Lucky.
  8. Good to see you as well. Work has taken over my life. Havent had much time to do much, but make sawdust. Think ill give that little anvil a try as a fishing sinker tomorrow. Come on it cant be completely useless lol!!! Wait untill you all see what followed me 900 miles to get home. Yall wont believe it. Will post tomorrow but i can tell ya it was worth driving for 3 days.
  9. Laundry borax isn't as aggressive as you'd like for welding chromium or nickle steels. If you have a welding supply store locally check the cans of welding/brazing flux. It's typically anhydrous borax, boric acid and sometimes something proprietary you have to look on the MSDS to get a hint of. Or, better still if you can order sal amoniac but use good, VERY good ventilation it can be darned toxic to breath. Well, yeah it's something you did wrong but you can fix that and we'll help. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. How did we get from there's no such thing as the perfect burner, or forge, to there's no such thing as a bad burner, or of forge
  11. Glenn ... I admire you patience in the analysis of the above exchange, but I am afraid there is only one conclusion from it. The first sentence in the first reply was out of line and rude. The rest is only a consequence of that single sentence. A provocative reply is no excuse for poor behaviour, agreed. But a provocative reply uncalled for from a long standing member has also no excuse. Considering this is not the first time I see this happening and considering the little time I spend here, the chances of me seeing this happening more than once should be zero. I believe that those that have experience and knowledge to share, and are generous enough to answer, take into consideration in their replies that 1) We do not know the poster and assumptions are the mother of all stuff ups. 2) Courtesy does not cost much and is not a sign of weakness. Nuff said. M
  12. I wanted to share what I thought would be an interesting change to a London pattern anvil for general forging. -The heel is asymmetric; this would allow it to be used like a normal tapered heel with the advantage of having one 90 degree corner of the square heel. It also features some obtuse angles and a hardy hole closer to the center of mass. -The section between the face and the table is a fuller; it could be useful for bending and drawing. When I made this picture, I had no specific measurements in mind. It is just there to give you an idea of what I what thinking. Does this anvil basically exist? Are the modifications actually bad? Or is it in fact a good idea?
  13. Thanks Joe. Pull the jet back till the end is about where the yellow mark is now and see what that does. Being off center messes up the stream of propane and induction but having 3 set screws should let you aim it straight down the bore. This adjustment takes really REALLY small turns of the set screws. Just apply enough loosening force to the screw at the widest gap till it moves at ALL. Then just put a little tightening force on the other 2. Check and repeat as needed. It's like the final centering adjustment of a 4 jaw lathe chuck, half a turn on the wrench and it was screwed up, start over. It took me forever to learn to do that. Frosty The Lucky.
  14. How did the art on fire show go?
  15. I can't help myself. Dan Frechette posted a video a while back in which he tried to explain the complex body movement involved in hammer striking. I think it is worth adding to the discussion. https://youtu.be/2Q9at4zPvdk He looks completely ridiculous as he over exaggerates the movement. At one point he explains that his wife looked out from the house and saw him in the shop. She thought he was going mad and dancing.
  16. Oh don't be silly John, you just give the Kodiak brown pants bear your fish and quietly leave them to enjoy the snack. Always carry a change of clothes and baby wipes when in the bush. Best toilet paper on Earth baby wipes! Frosty The Lucky.
  17. Wow, for that price they could have gotten a brand new, cast steel 240 pound anvil. I think that many people don't realize they are still being made.
  18. In three weeks I'll be going on my yearly "guys only" camping trip that includes about 25 guys so I decided to make 25 different bottle openers as gifts. I figured it would be fun to offer them and would be great practice. I hit the forge today and grabbed two pieces of steel that had been previously mashed when friends stopped by and wanted to see what blacksmithing was like. Both pieces of steel already had some serious shaping (mostly not aesthetically pleasing) so I challenged myself to figure out how to turn them into bottle openers. The first was challening as it as it was already drawn out a lot so I tried to get creative. It was a bent up piece of rebar so I decided to keep it tough and purposely put hammer marks i to it and left the rebar markings on the final inch of the handle. The next started ugly but turned into a pretty straightforward bottle opener. It was made from some slightly mangled 5/8 square stock. It's actually going to be challenging to make 25 distinctly unique bottle openers. I think that, by the fourth or fifth, they will end up turning out nearly the same but with small changes. Here are both.
  19. Thanks for all the ideas guys! I was on a cruise to Bermuda (not a cruise type of guy..) and have been digital free and so I couldn't check IFI. The main problem I have with mounting that monster is that, when the lever arms are manipulated, the cutting head of the bolt cutter swivels. It only stays centered in one place if you move both arms equally. The arcing of that head will make accuracy near impossible. Notownkid, I received those cutters from my cousin who is a fireman. They were decommissioned by his fire department. Lou
  20. I bet there is a patent for it somewhere; it looks like a "new and improved, best thing since sliced bread" type of thing.
  21. I thought that was a brown pants moment... Stance: with beginners I generally have to get them to step up to the anvil they seem to think they should work standing at the far end of the tongs and leaned over like a sideways U and just using their wrist to move the hammer. I tell them that it doesn't matter where the hand holding the tongs is. (Well it does but not hour 1) It can be behind their back even. They need to step up to the anvil and raise their hammer up shoulder level and make a good long swing. I then teach them how to hold their tongs pressing their hip to stabilize them and the workpiece especially when they are hammering the piece back towards them. I demonstrate what they are doing and what they should be doing so they can see it from the side.
  22. This thread was locked while we formulated a response. CMS This guy asked a simple question and the first response he got was snarky and rude. Original post TJ Smith Have a small Grizzly mill. It does fine with small end mills in brass but tends to chatter with anything close to 1/4 inch. Anybody got some hint or tweaks to tune it up and stop the chatter? First response Yeah. Buy a better mill and take a class or two. Did you sharpen your cutters for steel. There is a significant difference in the edge angles for cutting copper alloys as compared to steel. End mills are notorious for chattering if you aren't using it correctly. How deep are the cuts? How fast are you feeding it and how fast is the cutter turning? Why are you using a mill? Your question is so general it's unanswerable say I asked, "My car is running rough, what's wrong?" Second response #1 is quality end mills designed for the material you are cutting. They are not cheap but are worth the cost. The offerings from Grizzly are variable and tend to run toward the low end of quality (although many of their router bits are quite good). Calculate correct feeds/speeds and try to follow that...even if you have to "time" the speed as you are turning the feed-handles by counting in your head..."One Mississippi..2 Mississippi" until you get a feel for it. Those small mills and mill/drills are not rigid enough to do more than very light cuts in steel. AL not so bad but steel will tend to chatter easily. Climb milling is probably not going to happen without getting a quite picky with the set-up and operation. Coolant/lube can make a huge difference in many situations. As Frosty said, there is not enough info provided to say much more than those generics. CMS Then when he responds to it, upset at the way his post was responded to, he's told his attitude's the one that's wrong. TJ Smith second post and reply Frosty dumbest answers I have ever got. Buy a new mill. DUH not gonna happen. Didn't know I had to sharpen end mills for steel. Could have suggested that. Why am I using a mill. TO make a guard slot. DUH. If you can't give a decent answer xxxx up.Thanks Kozzy and gun doc for some answers that help. Next response I would normally consider end mills and slot drills as consumables and as they are only a few $ ( or here a few pounds ) am happy to buy a replacement when needed. yes there are different cutting angles for different materials. worn spindle bearings, incorrect feed and speed, coolant, loose slide ways and much more can cause chatter. and TJ Smith, if you know it all why bother asking for help ———————————— Let us review TJ Smith Have a small Grizzly mill. It does fine with small end mills in brass but tends to chatter with anything close to 1/4 inch. Anybody got some hint or tweaks to tune it up and stop the chatter? 4 posts with suggestions, hints, or tweeks. TJ Smith seems to take objection to “Buy a better mill and take a class or two” and replies “Frosty dumbest answers I have ever got. Buy a new mill. DUH not gonna happen." When ask “Did you sharpen your cutters for steel?” TJ Smith's reply was “Didn't know I had to sharpen end mills for steel.” —————————————— CMS Then when he responds to it, upset at the way his post was responded to, he's told his attitude's the one that's wrong. Sorry I can not find that sentence in order to quote it. Closest I can come is “Mr Smith, I am sure there are other forums that would better suit your inquiries, no less your demeanor. “ Milling forums, or machining forums would indeed have more information than a blacksmithing forum on the operation of a mill. As to his demeanor, you can decide after you read the entire thread. CMS Then a moderator reinforces the behavior and continues to be rude. This happens more often than I care to see on this forum, The Moderator posted TJ Smith Frosty dumbest answers I have ever got. Mod with this attitude don't expect any more from, anyone. TJ Smith Why am I using a mill. TO make a guard slot. DUH. Mod 'Duh' is just plane rude TJ Smith If you can't give a decent answer xxxx up. Mod now ya really blew it Admin note: Inappropriate language is not allowed on the site, and was X'ed out —————————— CMS I have met several people who have left the forum, or were banned because of peoples attitudes. No one has been banned because of someone elses attitude. People do get banned for not following the site rules, cussing, personal attacks, etc, but only after being warned. CMS No one forces anyone to post in a thread, yet some here feel compelled to throw their 2c. in even if its just rude as xxxx, or counter productive to the conversation. That's now how the blacksmith community in my area works. That's not how I thought it was supposed to work here. We encourage discussions, always have, but they must be kept civil, G rated, use appropriate language for a family forum, and NOT be a personal attack against others. This does not have anything to do with blacksmithing. It does however make the site a polite environment where ladies, gentlemen, and children can gather to learn about the craft. CMS We want people to get into the craft, for what ever reason, and encourage their passion within the bounds of their means and safety. We don't tell them to throw their tools out and buy something else. or make 5000 S hooks before you even look at making a knife shaped object. IFI encourages people to enjoy the craft safely, to learn, and to take that knowledge to the forge. They are encourages to ask questions. It is sometimes suggested they read what has been already been posted on the subject in the forum. This is in response to the many times the same question that has been ask before by others. This is in reference to electrically driven tools, line belt tools, etc. not the hand tools or tooling a beginning blacksmith would be using. If people have tools with little or no tolerances, it will be extremely difficult to produce a quality product. If they were skilled in the use of a loose or no tolerance machines, they may be able to overcome some of the limitations. For instance anyone can buy a power hammer, several pounds to several CWT in size. They MUST learn how to use the hammer safely, how to maintain the hammer, and learn how to keep it in running order. CMS As to making 5000 S hooks before you even look at making a knife shaped object, Can your first project be a knife, certainly. We suggested that you learn hammer control, fire control, and how the metal moves, read basic blacksmithing or metal working, then make your knife or what ever project you want to make. Knowing basic blacksmithing makes the job easier, faster, and safer. CMS thank you for your concerns. I hope this has answered your question.
  23. (or non-existent) I remember reading about the US exporting petroleum coke to China where it was processed into blocks for home heating as well as other energy uses. Unfortunately it's been called dirtier than coal; but is not tracked like coal is.
  24. And the time you caught a charging brown bear was a Kodiak moment!
  25. No markings that I can find.
  26. worked some on restoring a cross cut saw, and got some pattern welded steel billets welded up, tomorrow I will forge weld them solid. The chain will be along the spine, and the chainsaw chain along the edge, if all goes as planned of course. Littleblacksmith
  27. Michael: The profile looks good but you'll have better results if you keep the scale brushed off while forging so it doesn't leave such deep pitting. Frosty The Lucky.
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