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  2. Hi all, I'm new to this forum and just came across an old hornless anvil in the house i bought in Pennsylvania. USA. If anyone could give me an idea of what brand or era this anvil is i'd appreciate it. It hasnt been wire brushed yet and dont see any marking anywhere on it. Thanks, Bob weight is 125.6 lbs top is appox 5" wide 12 1/14" long and 9 1/2" height.
  3. Cut in two but not in half: cut one piece the correct height for your forging (probably wrist height when standing straight with you arm hanging at your side). Leaving the other piece with the wedge end you can use as tooling.
  4. Ditto Buzz. Any propane that doesn't burn in the forge will burn as dragon's breath and you will NOT smell the odorant. If you smell propane the fittings are leaking a little dish soap in water and applied to fittings will show you which one(s). Check everything including the regulator at the tank while under pressure. Flare fittings can have issues if you don't flare the right amount of tubing, too long is more a problem than a LITTLE to short. I recommend gas rated thread paste over tape. It does the same job but can't release particles that interfere or block gas jets down line. If a little paste gets pushed out of the threads it just sits there, it's sticky. I don't put thread dope (paste) on the mig tip it's IN the burner, any leakage can't go anywhere but in the fire so it's no hazard and too insignificant to effect burner efficiency. Make sense? Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Hi guys, I have a hydraulic breaker chisel I want to make into an anvil. It is 3 foot 3 inches long, is 4 and a half inches in diameter and weighs around 300 pounds. I have been thinking I could cut it in half and make 2 separate anvils or keep it whole and use as 1 large post anvil. Any suggestions or ideas on how best I could utilize this hunk of steel would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Today
  7. If you're smelling the stuff they put in propane then you need to check all your connections/fittings/valves for leaks. If everything is sealed up tight you should not notice the smell when the forge is running - at least that's been my experience. Even with fairly rich mixtures I've not noticed the smell with a leak free setup. If you have checked everything and have no leaks you may have a more sensitive sniffer than I have. To put it another way, maybe I don't smell as good as you do.
  8. Fair point. Especially when the animator is trying to sell something.
  9. As compared to firing a 7000 grain ball from my falconette? Fun to measure powder "by the handful".
  10. Crushed glass has been used and is easily sourced and worked with. (Dirt Daubers nests, rice straw ash, back when working real wrought iron; it's higher temperature tolerance allowed many different silica containing compounds to be used. One of the nice thing about borax is being able to remove it from the piece with boiling water, rather than chipping it off like glass.)
  11. As it is an animation you could portray the gas molecules any way the animator wanted.
  12. JF looks to be an owner's stamp to me. Nothing visible above the weight stamp?
  13. Ten minutes is a rough limit; I consulted on a project using cut nails as rivets to build a small viking faering. (They were having trouble annealing them; I sorted that out and went on to introduce some more "traditional" tools that worked better than modern ones for what they were doing.)
  14. Hi all, I have several thousand cut nails (2 1/2 inch long flooring nails) that I use for hands-on demonstrating. I have done the twisted nail and loop on a keychain, the twisted fairy spoon on a keychain, the finger ring, and the small hook with hole. What are some other forging ideas for these nails? I need projects that can be finished within a 10 minute time frame per individual. And I'm looking to give the participants more choices in projects Thanks, Dave
  15. quenching is supposed to make it hard, that is why we temper after to bring it where its wanted
  16. That is nice. I'd like that on my tombstone
  17. I'd like to thank you for your patience, and hopefully you can rejoin this wonderful adventure into gaining precious skills. Good News! In the meantime quite a few things happened, I finally emptied my propane tank after the crappy weather went away (seeing as I work outside). I have returned my return&trade-tank and actually bought one, since I have caught bug and wish to proceed while minding cost a bit. This one is mine for the next 10 years, didn't cost anything compared to the loan-tank I had and now only have to pay per refill / what I use. Not only that, but I've also started a new job and was preparing my wedding (only one more month to go!), so you can understand it took a while before I could reply. Now, back to the burner: With the previous tank, I couldn't open my valve all the way and produce a clean air-flow, since I couldn't open the pressure regulator on the tank. Having this new tank means I can finally use my new pressure regulator. As advised by Mikey, it's a good idea to add a needle valve. I do not have my needle valve just yet, but it's in the works.
  18. 2" truck axel and tolls used to forge the positive positive welded to flat bar and left cold. a 2" block of mild steel was headed up and the positive was hammered into the block forming g the negative. copper disc placed on the lower hammer die and the open die is placed over the top of it. This is done because the disc can hop around which when the hammer comes down can mess it up by double stamping or even just flat smashing the copper cause its half in and half out of the die. copper discs forged in the open die and then cleaned up with a wire wheel.
  19. About 1650 parts. Took me about 50 hrs just to break the material down using my bandsaw and chop saw. 4 types of pickets: straight, single and double baskets, double twist 14 diffrent pattern scrolls forged using my scroll forms totaling over 650. 18 hand forged formed scrolls. And about 700 hours.
  20. Satin hammered black powder coating. And every where you see what looks like a washer an open die forged copper flower will be riveted.
  21. Yes, as you see. Very irregular, too. If you look at the animation above, the gas particles are represented as moving very regularly and smoothly. I suspect that this attempt’s irregularity created a lot of turbulence in the tube that did a good job mixing up the gas, but at the cost of increasing friction.
  22. Hello so my local Scrap yard is a frequent place I go to And one of the employees about months ago told me they had anvil at that time the owner was not willing to sell well yesterday I got this for 150 bucks I figured it be a lot better to get my hammer control down on this that it would be on my hay budden or Columbian’s and most will probably tell me a paid too much but locally I could resell around 300 once I fix the edges . I’m pretty sure it’s all right iron it’s got about 80% rebound and weight originally was 177 currently and currently without the hill is 157 it has warranted and what looks like to you FTS them printed on it as well as JF i’ve tried doing some research and I can’t find anything on it
  23. Right you are Frosty. I can't ever seem to leave well enough alone, which is why my old Harley chopper spends as much time on the lift as it does the road, if not more. The huffing is the friction I was worried about undoubtedly, slowing the stream down. That was with solid "baffles" no? Wonder what would happen with, say, a fine metal kitchen strainer cut and shaped into a spiral that fit inside the mixing tube?
  24. Hello; Quenched in mineral fast oil; which makes it WAY too hard for a hammer (around HRC 64); cleaned up both faces; then heated up the drift to bright red; and let it sit untill both clean side were going to purples - I was aiming for HRC50 - 55 . Checking for cracks is always good, I found a couple in the tip. I always grind a piece clean with coarse grits; Then I dunk it in cooling liquid (water with oil), then warm it up slowly. Cracks will become visible due to the boiling black goo :-) I've always found this method somewhat "improvised"; does anyone have a better way to check for cracks ?
  25. If there are manufacturers markings, it would be on the long side in the center, not under the horn or heel. Add a few more closeup pictures? It looks like an old mousehole I once had, but better shape. Mine lost part of the faceplate. The feet design, with the sharp edges, looks antebellum, as mentioned. Are all 4 feet intact? As for price , he is your friend. Give him a 6 pack of beer, and tell him you owe him one.
  26. Mr. George, I forgot to add that silica sand is not expensive. Especially at a building supply store. Two fifty pound bags of the sand should last a very long time. SLAG.
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