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  2. @ThomasPowers, the owner gave me the 2" face thing. So I see---that's something built into the mold, not added later. Got it. I've looked at some images on the intertubes to get a sense of the maker. I doubt I'd buy this anvil as it's really big (for me) and he wants serious dough. I'm just curious as to who made it, etc.
  3. I'VE got v dies on my press none on my hammer i like breaking down bigger material like truck springs with the press then going to the hammer to work the smaller stock if that helps aid your decision.
  4. (Blush) you all are too kind. Thx. Indeed a good time was had by all. It was a pleasure to break bread and burn coal with you,John, and the forge is open whenever you're in the area. I never told you- the hold down was a chunk of buggy wheel axle. Once I had my way with the wheel, that was all that was left. 1 1/4"round steel with a 90 degree bend in it, and I had a lightbulb moment. I usually go for that above all my other hold downs. Steve In 37 years of marriage, my wife has never seen my upper lip.
  5. T.P., The crack was in the log base. It was three eighth inch. I used more than one rod. The surgeon told my ex that my crack was beyond repair. SLAG.
  6. Today
  7. He looks like a kelso rooster. But that's just a guess. Pnut
  8. Slag;just how large a crack did you have in yourself that they used that method to close it?
  9. Vinne Barbarino, the anvil surfing Boston Terrier. He is a little more comfortable on my new shop sized anvil
  10. L.C.L. means "less than a car load". I had to look it up. (I love the internet). SLAG Thank you Marc1, you are a fountain of information.
  11. SLAG, Suggests, yet, another method to accomplish tightening the stump to close the cracks gap and prevent further crack widening or other checking. Get a half or three quarter-drive drill. Also, look for a "bell hangers drill bit", you can get these at a large non-big box store, or on the internet. (they are handy for many other purposes too). Those bits can be two feet long or way longer. Drill a hole all the way through the wood stand, at its widest diameter. Get some threaded rod and put it into and through the hole. Place a piece of metal onto both ends, and then install a large washer. (or just use a large washer). Thread nuts on both ends of the rod. Tighten the whole assembly, to draw the wood and crack together. (somewhat, as it is not necessary to completely close the stump's gap) Place another nut on each end to contact the other nuts. The doubled nuts discourage loosening of the first nuts due to hammering on the anvil. (doubling the nuts serves as a locking means). The whole assembly can be further tightened, from time to time), as the wood dries and shrinks. This method forgoes the use of a forge to accomplish the job. Does this method work. Sure thing. It has worked for me. In other words; there are many ways to "skin a cat". Cheers, SLAG.
  12. I am 16 and have been hammering for a little bit more than 3 years. The more you make, the better you will get. You may or may not make money but you will certainly be learning. If you make a few buck to buy a tool or metal then great. If you don't make money just consider your small loss to be tuition. There are very few hobbies that you stand a chance at making anything back - but smithing is one of them.
  13. If that 150 is in KGs then it should weigh around 330 pounds U.S. Oops just noticed the title.
  14. My thinking on dressing the heavily scarred horn was that the horn on this particular anvil is heavy and has more girth than many designs, almost more of a taper than an appendage off the body. It was a gamble and I’m sure I traded some strength for aesthetics. Hopefully not too much, and I promise to report back after the anvil sees some use. Thank you, I do value advice and feedback from experienced craftsmen.
  15. Welcome aboard from a southern long distance neighbor.
  16. I'LL let ya's know how long the steel on a ribbon burner will last without refractory i'm doing a test now.I built mine out of a 2'' pipe coupler and a 1/4 plate welded to it with 25 1/4 holes drilled in it so far so good.I have been running it everyday since i built it at forging temp on 5 psi for 3 to 4 hours a day for the last four days no problems so far .The only thing i do to protect the plate is run the fan for 3o mins to protect the burner from the residual heat after i shut er down. I check the burner every 10 mins with a heat gun when its running and it gets between 125 to 300 deg were it sticks out the forge so about 2'' from the tip.I checked the bottom of the burner in the forge with a mirror to see if the holes were ovaled or showing sighns of burning out so far nothing actually the remnants of the the drilling are still around the edges of the holes.
  17. Well the face is not 2"; that's just a casting thing they did. What you really need to know is the results of the ring and rebound tests. May have to unclamp it to get a good ring result though. If it passes those tests it's a good anvil no matter who made it or when. If it fails those tests then it's not a good anvil no matter who made it or when it was made. (Anvils can go through structure fires and lose their heat treat which can be expensive and tricky to have re-done.) That is; if you are buying it to use!
  18. Anyone have any thoughts about the maker of this anvil? I know I don't have enough to be sure (and there's no way to get more info as of now), so I'll accept wild guesses and pure speculation if that's all ya got. This is CL local, seller says it's German (though he may mean German-style?) made in the 1940s, and cast steel with 2" face. He doesn't know the brand. I can add images of the face that he's put up, but there aren't any pictures of the bottom that I can get to easily. The face looks---fantastic, she says as a newbie amateur whose knowledge of anvils are primarily from Road Runner cartoons. I keep returning to the post on CL, though I think this is about 200# more than I was thinking of getting in an anvil. But I kinda like it. If it was mine, I think I'd name it Conan (as in barbarian not as in late-night-show host). Or maybe Sechs Bieren (Six Beers), which is how many I would have to drink while I sit down to recover from moving the thing. Any insight appreciated.
  19. I'd worry more about the horn falling off as the steel is the tough part. I didn't see anything on the face that needed cleaning, of course I only have close to 4 decades of smithing experience; but it's your anvil you can do what you want with it.
  20. Another way to "budget" for such a sale is to keep little projects around to work on when a major project is heating/cooling/etc. I like to have at least two projects in the forge; an important one and a less important one. However over a year the pile of "trinkets" builds up for the sale and you don't feel like you have just done production work for a week to get ready.
  21. I haven't cut a hole in it yet. I have it measured for the fireplace pan but I'm still looking into other options. I've been thinking about cutting the legs shorter and just using bricks to contain the clay. That way I can modify it later if I want to without a twenty four inche hole In the middle of the table. I'm going to try the bricks this weekend probably. Setting a box made from 1x 10's on top of the table is another option. Pnut
  22. 1) Name: Dan 2) Location: Rochester, NY 3) What type blacksmithing do you do, what do you make: Mostly tools (hammers, knives, axes, chisels...) 4) How and when did you get started in blacksmithing: Did a little smithing when studying for my MFA in glass at RIT back in the mid 80's (metals minor), but had no instruction. Took a long hiatus, unfortunately, and got back into it around 5 years ago. 5) What object or thing did you use as your first anvil: Unless you count the concrete floor I used as a kid to straighten nails (good early smithing practice), the first anvil I used was a 300+# London pattern at RIT. Didn't know how good I had it. First anvil I owned was a modified rail track anvil I got from my father in law and used for minor non-ferrous metal work. 6) Tell us about your first forge, hole in the ground, camp fire, brake drum, stacked bricks: The first official forge I used was the old natural gas Johnson monster at RIT. I made my first forge (which I still use) from parts left over from my glass equipment (also self constructed). It was, and still is, a forced air/natural gas forge made from a cut down 11 gal compressed air tank. 7) Who assisted you or encouraged you in the craft: My brother took a knife class from Bill Moran at RIT and got me excited about the possibility of picking this up as a hobby. I have been lucky enough to take classes and watch demonstrations from lots of excellent teachers, really too many to list. 8) What event changed your attitude about blacksmithing: Attending a hammer-in at Ashokan. 9) What tool has changed or made your life easier in the shop: Tough call. Probably my treadle hammer, so far, though the used baby 33# Anyang will likely pass that once I get better with the power hammer. 10) What advice would you give those starting out in blacksmithing: Look for classes, join a local chapter, get some direct instruction, it will flatten the learning curve enormously. 11) What advice would you give those already involved in blacksmithing; Teach the beginners what you have learned. Keep an open mind for alternate solutions. Seal your refractory blanket!!! 12) What are some of the interesting things that have happened to you in your life as a blacksmith: Attending hammer-ins, SOFA, Mid-Atlantic Blade, and an ABANA conference. Participating in a smelt overnight at Ashokan. Touring Albert Paley's studio. Teaching the Buffalo Sabres team some blacksmithing at the Arc and Flame school.
  23. Most groups I've been associated with will let you attend meetings a couple of times before paying to join. It can be a big help seeing other smith's set ups and finding out what you like/dislike about them before you build your own. Some groups even have forges available for folks to use after meetings. Helps to avoid the "I don't know anything about this; so I designed a new and improved way to do it and it doesn't work right, y'all need to fix it for me!" (And Yes, we do seem to get a number of such posts here over time...)
  24. A problem with using a solid steel or cast iron block for a ribbon burner is heat transfer. As the furnace interior warms up, heat is transferred through the hot faces on the inside of the furnace to the exterior faces where it is dissipated to the environment. Refractory materials in general slow this transfer of heat such that: 1. Enough heat is kept inside the furnace to allow it to reach forging temperatures. 2. Only a small amount of heat travels through the hot face wall to the furnace's exterior and this small amount of heat can be easily dissipated by the surrounding air; keeping the exterior of the furnace relatively cool. Now replace a section of the hot face wall with a modestly sized ribbon burner block. This block is going to absorb heat, this heat is going to travel through the block until it reaches the plenum on the other side. The biggest thing cooling the ribbon burner is the flow of air through the block into the furnace. With a refractory the flow of heat through the ribbon burner can be offset by the air flow. However, steel and cast iron have much better heat transfer than refractory and this means the air flow alone will not be enough to keep the plenum side of the burner below the ignition temperature of the propane/air mixture on the plenum side. The result will be a detonation and fire on the wrong side of the burner. How do I know this? My first ribbon burner forge experienced a fire on the wrong side of the burner when operated incorrectly (by me). The burner in question was made out of a hard refractory cement The forge was being being run very hot to do some forging welding for about half an hour. When the welding was done I turned down the air/gas flow to reach a normal hot working temperature. About five minutes later I heard a loud boom and then had fire coming out of places it shouldn't have. No one was hurt and but the blower fan was trashed from the detonation. The problem was the heat stored in the burner's refractory during the high temperature run. As long as the higher temperature was balanced by high air flow things were fine, but with high temperature and low air you get fire in the wrong place. My new ribbon burner has a water block build into the plenum side of the burner to prevent this. Steve
  25. You all have convinced me - I've asked my brother if we can go scrounge around the various scrapyards and dumps this Saturday. I have a few ideas for a JABOD set up, and also keeping an eye out for a conveniently shaped piece of scrap (like that food service prep bay you mentioned Pnut). I also looked into the Mid Atlantic Smiths Association - seems like a place with some resources, but probably wouldn't pay a fee until I'm 'up and at it,' so to speak. Also Frosty, thank you so much for the mention of the Morgan ceramics. I looked those up and they look -phenomenally- more well equipped for forging, and the price is still pretty reasonable. Am looking at other peoples set ups. Any other suggestions or tips that come to mind would of course be appreciated. Those are the weight I got my cross/ball peens respectively. My brother (who is a carpenter, so I'm in good hands with a set of background eyes) suggested those weights. I also looked up the Mastermyr chest, and that... is friggin' cool. Awesome that we would find Would be cool to replicate it someday as a project perhaps. That's one thing I'm realizing the more I dig into this - Blacksmithing was (and still is, albeit in more industrial forms) a major factor in the path of civilization. It's also a fascinating lens to look at history through as well.
  26. They can be really loud but you get an awesome anvil in return in my opinion, i am saving up myself for this anvil and hope to get it in the near future, you can deaden the ring so that isn't really a problem just bolt it down tight to a stand or stick some magnets under the heel and you're almost not able to hear it ring anymore. the 120KG is my personal favourite because it has a relatively narow face which i am quite a fan of I don't really know any anvil makers where you live that still produce anvils, but in my region Peddinghaus (or Riggid as its called now) and Refflinghaus are definitely in the top of the makers.
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