All Activity

This stream auto-updates   

  1. Past hour
  2. LBS, you are too hard on yourself. That is a lovely diamond twist to embellish your centre punch. Well done!
  3. Ha Ha, yes, a battle for the frog. I keep the name shifty lizards for the cuter-looking ones I make from real shifting spanners. Can't think of a name for these angry guys. I won't bother making any more though, as I don't have any more of those useless self adjusting doodads, and I'm flat out keeping up to the demand for standard shifties.
  4. Is there a German wikipedia? You could run it through google translate and search for anvils and see what pops up.
  5. And I would finish up in the middle of the North Atlantic.
  6. Today
  7. I feel your frustration. Dont rush, things will turn up. I was lucky enough to score a nice chunk of train rail in the beginning. Made a decent burner after reading Ron Reils website over and over. I wish i would've found IFI at the beginning, so you're already off to a good start. Be careful what you bite into, this trade will consume you. Btw, there's the IBA conference June 2nd-4th coming up. Little closer and sooner than the quad state
  8. It's not a bad spread of tongs but you're missing a couple really useful ones. Flats and side bits are good general use tongs. Check out Centaur or one of the other suppliers and see what they offer for a beginner set. I feel they have a good handle on what a person is going to use most when starting out. Regardless I try to start folk off using stock long enough they don't need tongs, 2' - 3' is usually more than enough, 5' is a little much unless it's a long project. Your grip on the stock is never as good as it is in your hands, everything you put between you and the work costs you sensitivity and control. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Uh huh. You really think surface grinding 0.03125" will do any good? Want to bet? I can see in the pic that face is well more than that far out of plane and a surface grinder makes planes. It will grind to the lowest point before it CAN take your 0.03125" and clean the face. More anvils have been ruined by experienced machinists than Gen. Sherman was supposed to have. It's your anvil, do to it what you wish. I have nothing else to say, you know too much already.
  10. Not always but I have my curmudgeon status to maintain you know. . . . So there! Frosty The Lucky.
  11. If you only have 1/32" of rust hot iron and a hammer will take care of it just fine. ONLY taking 1/32" off with a grinder is a LOT harder than you think without a surface grinder and using a surface grinder almost assures you'll take too much off. Electrolysis is NOT plating though the process is the same. All you need is a plastic tub you can completely submerge the anvil in. An electrolyte, baking soda works fine and a trickle charger. The new chargers that automatically shut off when the battery is charged don't work you need a manual controlled one. The anvil needs to be off the bottom so electrolyte can circulate under it freely. I like driving a few nails up through a piece of plywood. Attach the positive pole (anode) to a sacrificial piece of steel and hang it in the solution, connect the negative pole (Cathode) to the anvil one of the nails is a good spot. Reduction occurs at the Cathode. The bubbles will be free oxygen and hydrogen. Turn it on and keep an eye on it the rust will be reduced to clean iron faster than one would think. Any rust you pick, chip or brush off will leave pits, holes, etc. where it was. You can reduce the rust chemically too but it leaves you with a hazmat to dispose of. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. For some reason people see "grind" and think angle grinder, but I was talking about a surface grinder run by a machinist who regularly works on anvils. I've actually had great success removing deep scratches using a flap disc followed by a unitized wheel and then a deburring wheel. Frequently the vises I restore have an "anvil" portion that winds up with light chisel and hammer marks....unless they're very deep I'll run 60, 80, 120 grit flap discs over it, then a unitized wheel and then the deburring wheel on a grinder and it's nearly a mirror finish. As I said in my first post, I grabbed this because a friend picked it up, and I know a couple of people looking for decent anvils....figured one of them would really appreciate it. I think it's really cool, but my anvil budget is pretty much blown after buying a new 330lb Refflinghaus a few weeks ago.
  13. LMAO! You're not always grumpy, you are funny too! J/K on the grumpy comment, lol
  14. I'm a fan of a large table too without going overboard, more is better. A swing gate for the ash dump can be a hassle, clinker ash, etc. will make it hard to open and close after a while. I used an exhaust stack flap cap. They clamp to the pipe just get the right size and aim the counter weight towards where you stand so you can reach under with something, tongs, hammer, piece of stock, etc. and flip it open if necessary. The other good thing about a flap cap ash dump is when you get a coal smoke explosion it'll open the ash dump rather than flow coals out of the fire pot. If you put a bucket with a few inches of water in it under the dump you don't even have to think about hot coals doing you a mischief. Nice job. Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Careful what you tug on! It's summer I'm not wearing a coat! Give a shout when you want, we'll be around. Frosty The Lucky.
  16. A lot of long time professional smiths ruin anvils rarely their own but that happens now and then too. The only thing I'd touch with a grinder are the two sharp protruding spots on the edge. It's rusted enough electrolysis is a good bet for removing the gross rust. It's deep enough to be worth the effort. The face is just fine to forge on, hot steel and a hammer will go a long way towards smoothing out the dents and putting a shine on her. The torch cut in the heal and damage to the hardy is a tough one. Welding up the torch cut is more than likely to damage the heat treat in the HAZ and that's a B-A-D thing. A flap sander is designed to FOLLOW contours NOT smooth them out and they suck for chasing scratches. Taking one to an anvil face is a BAD thing it won't solve the problems while removing years of life. If a person actually needs a polished face to work on make a bottom tool, eg. hardy, fuller, swage, etc. Of course if your thing is making them LOOK the way you think they should and utility isn't important it's your anvil. Frosty The Lucky.
  17. Thanks Frosty, I haven't been here but a couple of days, but, you already have my respect as I have been reading much of what you've written. I will probably tug on your coat-tails once I learn enough to half-way ask a decent question, but, I'm a long ways from there yet, lol.
  18. Welcome aboard guys, glad to have you! I don't know if two guys in the same town introducing themselves on the same day has happened on Iforge before. Could be wrong but it's the first time I've seen it happen. Cool, VERY cool. Frosty The Lucky.
  19. I do a fair amount of restoration work on metal and it takes a bit of effort to remove a 32nd deep scratch/nick with a flap disc on metal much softer than an anvil face, so I have a hard time imagining taking that much off an anvil with a wire wheel. Still, I wasn't talking about an angle grinder at all, I was talking about a surface grinder, run by somebody who does repair work on anvils regularly. I don't know much, but I know enough not to use an angle grinder on an anvil :-)
  20. Naw, use the outboard to power a line shop. Big circular tank and an undershot water wheel. You'll be a public attraction in no time, admission can buy you a larger outboard and the show can really get underway. That or just put a big grindstone on it and the tank of water will keep the motor cool and stone wet. The elec motor has potential, you can drive a pair of 2" x 72" belt grinders. I'll bet you'd be the only Iforge member with tu tu x 27" grinders. NOW we're talking FAME! Frosty The Lucky.
  21. saw

    Bengriswold made some really good points. For the most part I use a tooth bladed Makita saw, which is not a true cold cut saw nor is the Rage. I couldn't go back to an abrasive chop saw. It cuts quicker, cleaner and cooler than an abrasive and if you take care of your blades they take care of you. I do cut plenty of sucker rod with mine but for coil spring, which is a pain to cut with any chop saw, I use the HB portable bandsaw. Although I've cut 3" round bar with my saw I usually try to do most of my heavy cutting with the torch, i.e. Forklift tines. Also, if you ask around, there might be someone to sharpen that blade for you. I found a guy through the shop I buy my blades from and he charges $15 a resharpening.
  22. Hello, I will be joining OkAbana in the morning. I'm hoping you guys are still around, so holler if you are. I would really like to learn what I can from people in my area instead of learning bad habits on my own. I am as new as you can get. I am just now gathering parts to make my first forge and have no tools yet, but, when I get my mind on a mission, I will get it all going. I hope you meet you guys and everyone else I can.
  23. Like Arkie said, looks good! I'm a big believer in table space, you can never have enough flat space to lay tools and forget where you put them. Also, I see some kegs in the back ground, I think they make the best slack tubs!
  24. saw

    I own a few DeWalt Saws and the the product line, so my first response is buy the DeWalt locally, try it, if not what you wanted take it back. I use a tooth blade on my DeWalt, it cuts mild steel smooth, square, and clean; may not once the blade gets dull but with my volume it will take a while. Buying local allows an easy return if it isn't what you wanted !
  25. On another note. Topically... I didn't find the pitting to be that bad on the face of the anvil. Mostly on the sides and bottom. But still What is the difference in takin' 1/32 off 1/2 inch hard plate still supported by 100# iron? I am not too familiar or set up at all to do electro-plating but it might be worth looking up to see what that would cost and might accomplish. Thanks for the tip!
  26. LBS, that look really good! Tools like center puches are constantly used but I, nor many other smiths, think the embellish them. Nice thinking. Got to take a break from repairing a windmill today to do a little traditional blacksmith work on a modern tool. Straightened out a part for my neighbors plow that was getting re-disked. Largest piece of steel I've hammered on, 3/4"x 6"x not sure how long. It was bent along the entire length.
  27. Nice job on your Capstone! Did you end up getting a forge out of the deal or did your money go into the materials for the bench!
  1. Load more activity