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  2. I think you're making a whole lot more work with too high a probability of failure with the screws. I like the straws idea and if Grant said it worked you can take it to the bank. Frosty The Lucky.
  3. I don't know which solder or the correct technique to use. I'd have to read some and probably call the local welding supply and ask. The guys at the local welding supplies and I know each other well, I've sent them to their books more than once. Then I tell them what works and doesn't. It's a lifelong learning curve. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. I didn't learn about leaving the key in chucks the hard way, it was drummed into our heads from the first day of metal shop 1 and Dad would say unkind things to anyone who left the key in a chuck at all. Anyone interested can probably find a "Fatalgram" about someone getting hit by a key or wrapped up in a chuck. I still have all my appendages and sensors, they make life soooo much easier. My left eye and ear are only about 35%, TBI nerve damage but they still work. It's a serious PITA to get a drilled hole lined back up on a bit once it's been moved. It's common to want to look at the hole you just drilled, rarely makes sense to do so but it's a natural urge. Done it too many times to be able to claim being a quick study myself. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Hey all! Been fairly quiet lately but wanted to post a reminder for my California friends and neighbors that CBA Spring Conference is once again at hand, and will be in Vista (just north of San Diego) at the Antique Gas and Steam Engine Museum! Check out the website for up to date details and registration infos. Cheaper registration cutoff is presently April 10th, so strike while the iron is hot! (Shameless, I'm sorry >.>) Demonstrator list as of this posting: Daniel Miller Brett Moten Monica Coyne Tony Swatton Gary Brown Jay Burnham-Kidwell Helmut Hillenkamp There's a wide variety of projects slated for the education barn under the tutelage/lash of various guest instructors. This is a coal forge zone, so read up a bit beforehand if you haven't had much time playing with them yet, they will show you how to do it but it makes it so much easier for you to learn if you do some homework beforehand! The food is great and plentiful, I suggest adding the meal plan (so much easier...). The museum itself is really cool to check out too, they have hundreds of old steam powered machines on the grounds and a vintage lineshaft powering tools in the barn off a really old kerosene (if memory serves) engine (fingers crossed that it's still in working order! :-D ). The power hammers are a lot of fun sound off if you will be attending! I'll be flying an IFI T-shirt at least once, might figure out another insignia at some point, TBD. hope to see some of you there!
  6. Thanks Andres I KNEW it was easy! I just couldn't remember how. Frosty The Lucky.
  7. Today
  8. Really fancy tools like those on that book cover were often (although not always) for aristocratic hobbyists. Louis XVI of France liked to make watches, for example, and one of the Russian nobles in War and Peace is described doing decorative turning on a lathe.
  9. Here is a pair I forged out of 1/2" square. I only had the tools I carry on my farrier's rig. So I kinda had to McGuiver these. The rivet was a horse shoe, apparently I should have used another shoe to make a bolster, and forged the rivet head before riveting the tongs together... A little over confident I guess. The reins and the bits look decent though. The boss area is sad... Since I was making scrolling tongs I was hesitant to take a normal bite to set the jaws and the boss like I would with a normal flat jawed tongs. I hate using 1/2" square too, much prefer 5/8-3/4" round, and a power hammer, or even 3/8" x 1" flat. I kinda muddled along with only the tools on hand. I had to use my creaser to trim the rivet, and the tongs off the end of the bar. My normal bosses are much better, really ;-) The anvil's face is 13 1/2" long for a good idea of scale. But they feel pretty good, and should work fine...
  10. Make a Handle Shape you like, Punch a square hole the correct size. Made to fit!! Neil
  11. I go to HF for soapstone crayons, cutoff discs, and earplugs. Being on their mailing list, I get regular coupons for "free with any purchase" items, which means I am slowly acquiring a sufficiently large collection of tape measures that I will always have one ready to hand.
  12. Good Morning, Jay You have started the School of Hard Knocks. You will learn what works and what doesn't work, hopefully. Hammer Handle Holes are oval and Hour Glass shape. This way your Handle won't twist and it can be wedged into the Head properly. Loose Heads are not wanted!! The Little Blacksmith showed you some pictures of his Brian Brazeal style, Handle punch, it is not a Hammer. The Handle is allowed to be loose in the Head, This minimizes the vibration of the Blow to your Elbow. You now have a hole through your piece. Now make a Handle Drift. A Hammer Handle Drift will take you from round to Oval. Make the Drift from a piece of car axle, or similar. Work from both sides, this will create the Hour-Glass shape. By starting out making your own Hammer, you will realize the value!! Prices of other Hammers will become worth-while. Enjoy the Journey. Neil
  13. They easy way to do it is: -Click on your current pic or name here in the thread itself. That will take you to the Profile page. -Look on the top left, where your picture is, you should see a small grey square icon. By clicking that, you change you porofile pic.
  14. Mitch, one day at work I needed an 18mm crows foot line wrench to replace a power steering line on a vehicle. The " reputable" tool dealer didn't have one on the truck. ( and I had one at home! ) but it was a rush job so I went to harbor freight. They Had crows foot line wrenches. But no 18mm! They skipped it and only had off the wall sizes when that One is common. Ugh! I bought both metric and sae sets. I was despirate. Nothing worked so I ground the closest size under with a 3inch cut off wheel to fit and got the job done. Moral of the story is sure, some tools at harbor freight are great while others will only get you by if they can be modified to work with knowledge or some just don't do the job right. It takes knowledge or experience to know that too. But you know that since you are learning and doing your research. Good luck on your build. Sorry I can't help on that one with zero experience with gas forges. Just tossing out some experiences and hope it helps. I'll keep watching tho.
  15. Thanks for the welcome fellas. So right now I'm researching a good belt sander for knife making. And a drill press.
  16. This is personal preference, but I prefer my hammers shorter, but that isn't anything you cant still change. I would have cut it at about 4 1/4" long, which would give you about a 3.5lb hammer. Or you could go the route of upsetting what you have, but if you are fine with that length, than that's all that matters! I believe this is what NickOHH is suggesting, but I recommend using a v bit punch, the style Brian Brazeal uses. I will include some pictures of some punches of this style, just to try and give you an idea. They are a very efficient way of punching, and are the most efficient punch for punching stock of that size, or at least from my experience. Here is a thread that I started of me going through the "evolution of tool making" building up to making my first hammer, or at least my first hammer that I directed. The most important part of this tool, other than the structure, because obviously if you have poor structure, than it may not hold up to constant sledge hits from a beginner striker. Like I was saying, the second most important thing is the grind of the punch tip. If it isn't ground properly, either it wont punch a plug, or it wont be as efficient as it could be with the "correct" grind. Here is just some other tools used in the hammer making process. here is some tools that i made for the hammer making process, which can be seen along with others in the thread I included above. Hope this all helps a little, it looks like you are off to a good start, which is to start! Littleblacksmith
  17. Does anyone have access to either a Silver No.3. Or Buffalo Forge 66? im looking for details on missing parts so I can make something up similar to complete my latest drills.
  18. These are what I have for my postdrills
  19. All interesting reading. Especially "check the source of the source"
  20. Well than, I will be looking foreword to that! On Friday, the day before the event, I decided to spend the day at the shop rather than school, and sometime during the day I started playing with some 3/8" square, and made a pretty nice plant hanger from it. I really liked it, and so did Stan Bryant, and so he traded me the pair of tongs to the right of the 5 1/2lb straight peen hammer. I was a bit surprised that the tongs he made weren't a little nicer. As he said "I just make **** hammers, I cant do **** like that" I must say, he is quite they guy to hang with. Littleblacksmith
  21. You dont have a national electrical code? Wow. I'm sort of speechless at that.
  22. Hulled some brush, broke a wheelbarrow, Lit the forge and made a couple letter openers. The first one i don't like, but it allowed me to make the second one better. My block brush came today, and I have to say, those things eat scale. They're great. I finally found a blower replacement, and that came a few days ago, and so am working on getting that hooked up. Littleblacksmith
  23. Wow. Takes my breath away.
  24. Beautiful. I look forward to the day I can do Damascus...
  25. That is hilarious! Creative marketing at its best.
  26. One thing I've picked up along the way that's very handy is a 65 year old industrial arts textbook on Metalworking. Very handy when you want to solder stuff but are not quite sure of the "how"---- also filing, drilling, tapping, etc and so on. IIRC it cost me US$1 at a yard sale...There was still metalshop in middle school when I went through but it lacked a "drill sergeant" instructor. Actually I've picked up several of the old versions,"Farm Shop Practice", "General Metals", "Sheet Metal Worker's Handy Book", "Welder's Guide"...In my experience anything pre-1960 will have useful information as a given. Post that date you need to check them out more carefully. Note that the *really* old ones can be "interesting" when it comes to safety---hardening using cyanide for instance and should be approached with caution so that you can pass such information to your grandkids and great grandkids!
  27. Frosty I agree. I enjoy improvising, when it is appropriate. I assumed from the start the solder I was using was incorrect, but it's all I had, and I wanted the opinions of the people who have far more experience than I on the subject. I also did read through a lot of what I could get my hands on regarding soldering the guards on. That's where the small bit of knowledge I have on this subject came from. That's why this great archive of info is here, after all. I was just looking for specific answers regarding this specific situation. I meant no disrespect.
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