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  2. If it is attached to the trailer I would call it a draw bar, if attached to the towing vehicle I would call it a tow bar. Alan
  3. A bit of Diesel poured into a metal can and applied with a paint brush works wonders on rust. A dab of Diesel and a little elbow grease with a brass brush will clean it up. Learned this trick from my boss when I worked at the museum cleaning old hand tools. Just beware: Diesel is hazardous and you only need a cupful to make it work.
  4. There's another aspect about the 1/32" estimation. Let's assume for the purposes of discussion it's an accurate depth. The problem is it's 0.03125" to the Top of the pits and if you don't know, the rust at the bottom of the pits is usually deeper. So, you grind 0.03125" to the top of the face, then grind ANOTHER 0.03125" of sound steel to reach the bottom of the visible pitting. Now you have to grind through the rust at the bottom of the pit, at least ANOTHER 0.03125" usually more. Okay, lets assume it's a lucky day and say 0.09375" (3/32") cleans the pits out completely. What about the rest of the face? It's not flat even if it was before getting tossed in the wet, corrosion doesn't happen at an even rate. So more metal has to be removed from the high spots to treat the low spots. You have to remove more than the apparent depth of rust to actually clean the face with a grinder of whatever kind. Around 3x the apparent depth of rust is a conservative amount of material to remove to clean the rust off is a fair rule of thumb. Taking 1/8" off 1/2" inch face is a significant loss. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. The OP's pics look like the rare and highly sought after platypus anvil! Surprised the owner isn't asking more! LOL
  6. Here is a different question, and possible answers: Why in the world would a knife maker's forge need three burners? Possible answers: It's really for use on swords by the worlds fastest blacksmith; wow, they must really be weak burners; like oversize cars, their only purpose is to allow the manufacturer to charge more money for a poor product
  7. Just a suggestion: Why don't you use it as is for a few months - up to a year even - and then if you still think it needs modification you'll have a good handle on exactly how you'd like it to be different. Deep pits can show up on your work, but if they are shallow as you indicate then you hammer marks are more likely to be noticeable than anything the pits will introduce to your work. I have a Peter Wright whose face looked similar to your pictured anvil when I got it. After cleaning it up I found the pits weren't nearly as bad as I thought. I mostly make blades, but I haven't noticed any real problems that I can attribute to the pitting in the face of the anvil.
  8. If you can get it, 1/4" high alumina tile will act as armor against physical abuse of the ceramic fiberboard, and will protect it from direct impact from the flame, and help even out temperature shrinkage in the board; the fuel use it takes over straight board, will be minimal. Or, you can go with a tough heat resistant coating, which will protect from everything but physical impact. Remember that such a coating doesn't prevent you from adding the tile later on.
  9. She is on the list Frosty.
  10. Mixing tube length One of the first burner design principles I learned was called "the nine diameters rule of thumb," which stated that the length of a mixing tube, in a linear burner, should equal nine times the inside diameter of the mixing tube. Later on I incorporated that principle to include the area forward of the air intakes to the end of rest of the tube, on my jet ejector style tube burners (AKA Mikey burners). Generally, this rule of thumb works out well, but like any rule of thumb, it can be bent somewhat to suit particular needs. Nine times the diameter can be lengthened to ten, to smooth out a rough working burner, or shortened to seven diameters to deliberately shorten the length of the flames in burners mounted within a forge, if its flame is too close to the work pieces. I would go with eight diameters on a "T" burner, just as Frosty recommends. Nine diameters works best on a Mikey burner, or a typical linear burner, and fourteen diameters on a Vortex burner. Different designs have different needs. One rule of thumb is that it is much easier to shorten a mixing tube, than to stretch one. Consider rules of thumb as ballpark figures for beginners; something that is wise to adhere to, at least until you know enough to experiment intelligently; and when might that be? Not until you thoroughly understand what you are looking at, when you view your burner's flame. After eighteen years, I'm well along, but still learning...
  11. Today
  12. Frosty, She is on my list.. I hope things go well and a speedy recovery. Jim
  13. I'll be praying for you all.
  14. As to length, I would go for an eight times the diameter on a "T" burner, just as Frosty recommends Nine diameters works best on a Mikey burner, or a typical linear burner, and fourteen diameters on a Vortex burner. Different designs have different needs. One rule of thumb is that it is much easier to shorten a mixing tube, than to stretch one
  15. I get what your saying but Nothing last forever especially if you want to hone the tool. Why sharpen a knife? every time that is done it removed metal that can't come back. eventually there will be no usable knife. The idea is not to forget about it and make it more usable, I don't really want to add pit marks to my work. I guess if this thing survives 8 owners someone will have to reface it with welds, but honestly that seems like it could go even worse if not heat treated right. The idea for me is to take care of it. With the tools I'm using 1/32 would take me quite a while to do. I'm just looking to get a smooth top. so what is enough face plate?
  16. this one just sold here at a small local on-line auction yesterday for $81.62 after tax's and fees .. probably should have bid on it but passed...
  17. Thanks for some ideas. I think this is an excellent project we can all experiment with. Let's see some results! Good thing the local high school has a CNC plasma cutter, and that the shop teacher owes me a favor...
  18. Thomas, I didn't know that non-refillable helium cylenders came in more than one size. Could you provide any more information on this, please?
  19. If you don't have a party store near, go to any mechanic shop/garage that does air conditioning work and ask if they would save and let you have an empty freon tank. If you put your location in your profile you might be surprised how many IFI members are close to you and would give you a tank. Shoot I have three of them in my shop right now.
  20. I'm asking for help from the gang again. This time my mother in law Margie is in the hospital with stroke symptoms though the first tests haven't found stroke evidence. Deb and I are waiting by the phone and saying our prayers. If you could add her to the list please. Frosty.
  21. If it were me while doing modifications, I would set the top edge of the rotor flush with the table top, to eliminate the step up and seal up the cooling fins with fire clay..
  22. Thank you very much! Yes, I wanted a good sized table for the coal and I was considering welding some extra metal on the end and putting holes in it for tongs when I develop the ability to handle those. For now, I'll leave my metal at a decent size to manipulate it by hand! Will definitely consider using the kegs for a slack tub. Thanks so much for the advice. Thank you, Frosty. I will definitely consider changing the ash gate's design to a flap cap as per your advice! Coal smoke explosion sounds alittle it a common occurrence? It is odd that I haven't come across it during my research into utilizing coal as a fuel source. Thanks again! I will definitely consider your advice and use a thicker piece of steel. Thank you very much!
  23. I have been using a diesel home heating burner and found that I had to use a conical reducer to concentrate thw fuel and air into a smaller stream as not all of the air got mixed through the flame and that unused oxygen caused problems with burning the steel. I used a 4"to3" mild steel one at the start but it burnt away after some use so I have changed it for a 304 stainless one I think the nozzle could be a bit smaller yet in the outlet, I still find the work a bit prone to scale and the flame is tricky to get the chemistry right but it has lots of heat and mine uses about one and a half litres an hour so its cheap to run and its just push the button simple start. I found the radiated heat from the forge interior cooks the auto restart sensor so remove that, my set up is very crude and takes ages to heat up to welding temp (about an hour) and I am currently improving my forge to a gas one
  24. Tow bar.
  25. I can identify the problem as being the 10 inch wheel. I see no visible damage. There are no tears, bumps or holes in the rubber. The bore looks ok and there isnt any build up on the hub anymore, but still it vibrates terribly. The dial indicator shows no out of round or wobble. Could the rubber have embedded with metal shavings I cant see? It does look somewhat worn, after less than 2 months, but not to a point where it looks ragged. From the begining both wheels seemed very soft. I wonder if it may be possible to replace the rubber tires? Is there an ideal durometer for contact wheels? Is there a good product for this? My next step will be to turn an arbor for the lathe and see if I can sand the face a smidge and smooth things out. Then to build a balancer...
  26. I quite like my collins hammer, had it about 6 months, no issues with the quality of it.
  27. or any mild steel you can get that is not plated or galvanized. 'in rust we trust' is wise to remember
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