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  2. who is this wayne you speak of? And to answer your question...well I don't know. I guess it makes a lot more sense to just build a better forge, and hook up a proper burner to the one I have. Then my son and I can both play at the same time.
  3. I went to my local auto paint dealer and they gave me a two solution process for preparing the metal. One was used to remove finger print oil and other oils. The solutions were mixed with water, and I had to dry them immediately after washing off the solutions. The times I did this I was lucky to have very low humidity. Even taking lots a care to scrub all the surfaces really well to remove all the oils and never touching the metal without gloves on, I still found little spots of rust that had grown when I just clear coated the bare metal. That was many years ago, and when I went to the auto paint dealer recently, they gave me one spray can to use. No washing or two solutions. Good luck.
  4. Today
  5. Nice job Michael! I've seen a few forged soap stone holders and that looks handy. Short pieces of soap stone disappear so easily and they don't do so well in store bought holders. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. Greetings JT, Are you aware that by.pulling the pin it will allow the rear jaw to pivot. A real handy feature. Yep looks like a Prentiss. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim
  7. Well I ended up getting this old 7" swivel jaw bench vise today at a small local on line auction for $211.00 its at least 200 lbs. and 31" long closed and 13" tall.. its a monster looking vise in person.. it has no makers mark that can be seen... G-ManBart told me it looks like a Prentiss vise.. thanks for all the info Bart !!
  8. Their are copeing strategies and skills that help, medication is just one tool. Medication will give you a bit of breathing space in witch to learn to apply those skills. Learning to muscle threw the distractions and noise is difficult to say the least. But ic can be done. Insure that your doctor sets you up with a cognitive therapist who can help you learn those skills.
  9. Good Morning and welcome, Trying to figure out what forge to buy/build. The reality is, you are wondering what kind of Forge for your "FIRST FORGE". Forget the cost, after using "A" Forge, you will want one a little larger or a little smaller. The reality is, you will end up with a few concoctions, before you are satisfied. You can make a Forge with 9 Fire-Bricks, that will work just as good as anything else, except, you won't be satisfied with the simplicity of it. You will build or purchase another, a little more sophisticated. Bottom line, Enjoy the Journey!! Take care of your ears, eyes and body!! None can be replaced!! Keep your smile on your face, no where else. Good, Cheap, Fast!! Pick two!! Picking three is impossible!! Neil
  10. 10 minuets in the forge an save you 20 min with the file
  11. Electric or gas? If electric be careful, last I knew 6hp motors only existed in Craftsman brand fantasy shop vacs.
  12. @Frosty never thought of it that way. I have to exert myself to get the simplest things done. In the past, any attempt to multitask has lead to the hamsters escaping from the cage and running away. I'm going to keep my little anvil. It's my first after all!
  13. I was thinking a "Clinker Buster" but missing the wooden handle.
  14. After etching in the acid, neutralize in boiling baking soda, then wait until the next day to clean/polish it. as always peace and love billyO
  15. 311 I will post some photos of a Maine made Fisher tomorrow. They generally had a better finish, and usually had the weight stamped in on the upper left side, right where all of the chipping is. Use the anvil for a while. I think you will find it needs no other work. The steel faceplate is only about 1/4" thick, and you do not want to reduce this more than it already is from years of work. I am sure a nice pine log under the anvil will work fine. If the log is inside, I am sure that it will last. And so what if you have to replace it every decade? Cut the log and mount the anvil. Just strip the bark off. Any checking will add character. It will shrink, but should not ever warp out of level. Use a turnbuckle as part of the holddown, so if need be, it will be easy to tighten it up.
  16. Done and done and thanks!
  17. Welcome to the forum. None of us will remember where you are located ten minutes from now. You can go to your profile and add your location and may be surprised how many of the IFI gang are close to you. If you read the forges 101 and burners 101 threads you might decide to build your own. I did (although I had a kiln burner) and everyone here was a tremendous help. Good luck on your quest.
  18. Njanvil, is there any way to tell if it was made in Maine? The guy I got it from believed it was made before the move to NJ. Thanks for reassuring me about the dull tone! I was also told the cutting face and horn were covered in harder steel, and there are seams that support this idea. You said work with what I have, so I'm assuming the cuts and dings on the cutting face and horn are no concern either? I prefer old things with character, so grinding just to make it pretty isn't something I want to do either. Oh! One last thing I've been pondering, the mounting of this sexy beast. I'm going with wood, but my question is do soft woods absorb my hammer strikes more than hard? Am I losing anything using soft wood? I've got some pretty big pine trees, but my land is scarce in larger hard wood. Should I wait for the wood to dry, or mount it wet? Was figuring the wet wood will really lock in whatever I use for fasteners, but was also thinking it may warp slightly when it dries which could ruin the flat and level fit.
  19. Yesterday
  20. This was a demo by Kirk McNeil of Freedom Forge in Santa Cruz, at a Hammer In at Roaring Camp this past weekend. A soapstone holder out of 3/8 square stock. Of course, what was provided was 3/8 round Stainless, so it took a little longer than expected. About 6 inches long with the soapstone. The collar took 3 tries, one just because the little bit flew off into nowhere (at least no where I could find it) as it was being cut off the parent bar. Collar slides to lock the jaws. Others did the collars in brass or copper wire. Final fitting of the stone holder bits was helped when another smith made an iron blank the size of a soapstone for the final fit.
  21. With a longer handle, I'd try to dig up some goat-head roots we have around here.
  22. Have you looked at Diamondback Forges, Economy Models, Blacksmith Model, and a more open Artist Model, and a Knife Makers Model, they also have one and two burner models.. Built rugged, decent price, simple, and easy to replace the lining because it has hinges built in that allows a full open position of the front and top for lining replacement. At least give them a look see. The owner s a little hard to get in touch with but if you like his stuff, he is dead on fast on deliveries. I too am a novice at blacksmithing, I didn't want to attempt to build a Forge because of my OCD,ADD and I start more projects than finish. I decided the fastest way for me was to buy a completed unit. Good Luck,
  23. Self aligning Pillow Blocks... ($$$), nice ! Just a quick thought, why not cut a plate, 1/4"thick, and use it to reinforce the tube wall, mounting platform, under the pillow blocks; you could mount it inside of the tube. I can't believe the thin wall of the tube will hold up, just me so of course I over build everything, just thinking out loud, not meant to tell you what to do or go against anyone plans. Good Luck with the new parts.
  24. You're around 2 hours away from me. Honestly not all that bad considering how this is my first post on here haha.
  25. did you do a notch and break test? or just a file test? Some of the steels just don't get as hard as a true 5160 or 52100 so the file feels sticky.. But it is still hard.. If you do a notch and break test it will for sure show you the error of the ways.. Also some of the springs are decarbed on the outside so there is less likely hood of a spring failure from fracturing.. Flatten out 5", notch every half inch, take a full yellow heat at the end and have your last notch just before transition temperature (1500F or less) then harden the whole 5".. give it a file test, and then snap off each segment and look to see if there is a nice clean, small grain in the broken off part.. You'll notice that at the high heat sections 2400 down to about 1800 the grain gets smaller with the lower temps.. Post back results.
  26. How do you get a bottle open with them then, if you don't handle them?
  27. I'm up the road in the Marion Area
  28. My wife ordered me the step pulleys and i have ordered new pillow blocks. The new one are self aligning Mel
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