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  2. How To Plan The Perfect Camp Cookout Camping is always an exciting adventure, however, with poor planning, camping will end up being a nightmare. Here’s a list of essential camping items you need to carry with yourself to make your camping experience memorable. Sufficient water supplies Be sure to carry enough water. If you do not have enough water, you will be thirsty and unable to cook. Water is the most essential part of camping. A camp without water will turn into a nightmare. Sufficient Food supplies If you are camping at a site where cooking food is not possible, it is important to carry food with you. Rice, onions, and other vegetables will help you cook any food you gather such as wild meat, fish or berries. Coffee sachets and tea-bags Instant coffee and tea-bags make for the perfect beverage while camping. You could also bring fruit juice powders that are water-based for your kids so that they also gain extra energy as they proceed into the day. Portable Cooler If you are camping for an extended period of time, it is a must to carry a portable cooler with you. Having a cooler opens the option to store your fruits and vegetables. If you do not have a cooler, your food will be spoilt and so will your camping experience. Portable Charcoal Burner Portable Charcoal Burners make outdoor cooking and camping experience easier and better. Hibachi portable charcoal-burner by Venyn is a single electric burner that provides you hot coals for your fires and hookah. You do not need to learn any complex methods to start your fires if you have a Hibachi charcoal burner. Starting a fire might be the hardest step when it comes to outdoor cooking and it could cause a lot of stress. Having a charcoal burner, such as the Hibachi from Venyn can help you relieve stress as it comes in handy in such situations. This Portable Charcoal Burner also doubles as a BBQ pit for the meat that you catch during your camp. Pot, Skillets, and saucepans It is hard to cook without the right vessels. Be sure to carry pots, skillets, and saucepans so that you have the right vessel to cook in. Having the right vessels make for seamless cooking. Culinary Tools And Utensils Bringing culinary tools and utensils such as spatula, knives, can openers, spoons, and forks will result in a better camping experience. The better your eating experience, the better your camping experience will be. Portable Camp Stoves The idea of making your own portable camp stove seems adventures, however, it is not always the easiest to pull off if you are a beginner camper. Carrying a portable camp stove can help you cook without having to worry about any unnecessary obstacles. Having great food will increase your overall camping experience. Trash bags Last but not least, be sure to carry trash bags with you. Cleaning up is an important part of camping as it preserves the campsite for campers who come after you. Carrying trash bags with you helps make this process simpler.
  3. Alright, since the link got removed (didnt read the post about eBay links) I'll try screenshots of just the axe. I think it is really interesting because aside from a 16th century corner chisel ive never seen 90 angle blades on a tool. No idea what it may have been used for.
  4. Today
  5. Well done. littleblacksmith, those are some nice tongs. Well done.
  6. Not that I can't weld - I just didn't feel like it. I used 18 and 12 inch pieces of Unistrut and 3/8" and 1/2" nuts & bolts with the right angle brackets and plates. I did cheat and tack in an 8-32 nut for the tracking adjuster. I was going to epoxy a 1/4-20 t-nut into the hole but I ran out of epoxy and the 8-32 gives a finer adjustment. Motor is a 3/4 horse washing machine motor. 2 speeds - 1140 and 1750 rpm. With a 6" drive wheel I calculated the belt speed at about 2200 fpm on low, 3400 on high. Spring is from the same washing machine. For the jackshaft I drilled out a couple of the angle brackets and put 3/4" OD 1/2" ID bushings in them. Turned the drive wheel myself. The others are 3" longboard wheels with abec 9 bearings on M8 bolts. Total out-of-pocket cost was about $40 for the switches and wheels - had everything else laying around from other projects. I still need to enclose the motor better. The little crate is just a frame to hang some filter material on. Eventually I'll make a platen, too. Thanks for looking - Jim IMG_0949.MOV
  7. Found this on eBay, I dont have any plans on buying it but its definitely intriguing. Maybe a custom mortising axe? ebay link removed
  8. The difference of one drill size up on the intakes of the 1/4” burners. The nozzle with the most scale has the larger intakes.
  9. Build a HOT table to put beside the forge. Anything hot goes on the HOT table. Anything coming off the hot table goes into a bucket of water, then into your BARE hand to be placed on a work table usually on the other side of the anvil. If the object is still steaming and hissing when it comes out of the water, consider another dip before you put it into your bare hand. (grin) This way there are NO surprises and no one gets burned. Someone can pick up a warm piece of metal but nothing you did not hold in your bare hand first. If tongs, hammers, etc are put on the hot table, they go into the water, and then into your bare hand. Rules are rules.
  10. Finished up a few crosses and a hook today. The railroad spike was found by a friend of mine. In Northern Michigan, narrow gauge rails where used in the logging industry from the late 1800's until maybe into the 1910's. I believe the spike is wrought iron and was certainly hand made.
  11. Sorry for not being on for a while but man I have been busy making knives a lot of knives. My skill has improved a great deal in the past few years and I hate to say it but my Little Thumper is worn out and I am doing an upgrade on the little guy this winter he has served me well but the wood construction was not sturdy enough to take all that pounding. But I have a design in mind and when I get it done I will share it with everyone.
  12. Look for a barrel that contained a known substance that does not cause problems.
  13. Back around 1987 I checked a book out from the local library. It was a really good book on blacksmithing, though I did not really know enough to understand it at the time. It described a forge, hood and chimney built from old water heater shells, with a really good description of fire management, evaluating scrap, and making blacksmith tools with a whole chapter on punching and drifting. I do not recall the author or title, and it was a rebound book so it was just a shiny grey binding. The author was from the southwest somewhere, and talked about learning from mexican smiths. He had a Spanish sounding name that I do not recall. It is not much to go on, but I would love to find a copy of it, or at least know what this book library has no records from before 2012 ( I already checked)
  14. Here is the dumb move. Do not do this! I shudder to realise, in this picture my finger is against the sow... A tool like this is much safer
  15. LBS. Nice work.. it's funny how your tongs and my tongs look like twins.. is it magic.. I think not.. there is a reason why tongs take on this shape.. Anyhow, wonderful work. sorry if I sound like a jerk.. I am just stoked about the geometry of your tongs.. This overall ratio is what I found up to a certain size. these are chain makers tongs but anyhow, it's just funny.
  16. hello. so I just watched the video on the tin hammer. A tin hammer is pretty small.. But, yes it is punched in a similar way. One thing I wanted to make note of.. Is the thickness of the slug that was removed from the hole.. this is a lot of wasted material.. As mentioned earlier the slug will be very thin when the slug is knocked out.. JHCC.. that is kinda it, but this will make a nearly straight hole thru for the eye.. it does push the material back in, but it also does not address the eye shape.. Both address pushing the sides back in.. As a side note watching videos like this just spurs me on to make my own.
  17. Never ever put your hand between the TUP and lower die without the machine being shut down and a safety device in place, unless you are willing to lose it.
  18. Welcome to IFI... Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST It will help you get the best out of the forum with suggestions like editing your profile to show your location, how to do the best search, among others. No problem with opening old threads, it gives new folks a chance to look at them. However the builder of this hammer hasn't been on since Aug. 2017 so I doubt he will see the complement.
  19. Ok that's good to know Haha well not irreversible what would be a better material to use in replace if bricks? I've seen some using a type of wool and a some kind of hardened paste...also would a proper regular better control the richness of the flame? As of now its straight off the tank which makes sense why it's so fuel rich
  20. Really nice looking hammer. Do you have a photo of the punch/punches used?
  21. Nice work. Looks like you hit it right on the head.. The eye geometry looks smack on.. Well done.. It really is amazing how the metal seems to just want to go back into position and there it is a perfect hammer eye shape.. What was your finial punch size?
  22. I did not sift out the aggregate. We made a form out of blue Styrofoam covered in packing tape. Then mixed up kastolite to ram into this form along the bottom and up the walls. This created a hollow inner which we put a piece of rigidized ceramic blanket. That was then top coated with more kastolite. This makes a hollow block with blanket inside.
  23. I’m surprised, been told I will put hair on your chest ,Bear oil does have many uses still applicable today: it makes an excellent leather conditioner, it can be substituted for lard in nearly any recipe especially for pastries, it makes a great lamp oil (smokeless), can be used as a lubricant for metal (including firearms), it can be used to make soaps, and it can be used to treat skin issues such as: dry skin, chapped skin and as a salve alone or as a base, and makes great pemmican!
  24. This morning went to the scrap yard and steel yard to pick up some steel for a couple forges I’ll be making and selling at an upcoming blacksmithing event. Then headed to the forge after lunch and got some tongs done that will also be sold at the upcoming conference. Lot more to do.
  25. I used the method described, punching with a round punch and flattening the sides when I made this cross pein. I liked it. There’s a picture of it next to old one I took as inspiration.
  26. Dang pnut, you mention of a place to put hot steel to cool made me think about a place to put smaller chunks of cold steel, yet to be forged. Most of my smaller (<12") goes into a bucket, which I need to dump and dig through from time to time. Some of which could be on the shelf under the forge, ready to grab, and go. I think I'll add the shelf after all.
  27. You'll be just fine. The yellow tape is good stuff. Read the roll for the instructions. I think it was two wraps(in the correct direction) while being mindful to stay off the last thread to avoid having any tape make it's way into the plumbing. You do not need to spot tight any of these fittings. If you tighten iron pipes into brass fitting too tight, you can crack the brass. Do not tape the flare fittings. You also don't need to tape the mix tube threads. If you are concerned about leaks, you can pump the system up with air and use bubbles to check for leaks. If you are wanting less strain on burners, hard mount that manifold somewhere convenient to access the valves and then run from there to the burners with a longer copper line. The only fitting you would have to replace is that short flare connection. This would require a flaring tool though. This also makes it so you don't have to mount the burners in the forge in alignment with the rigidly secured gas jets.
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