Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
All sizes, and types, mechanical, pneumatic, water, trip, etc No hand hammers here.
2,188 topics in this forum
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I’m looking at a 25lb Canadian giant power hammer. And I’m wondering if this size of tool would be sufficient for forge welding Damascus billets, and would it be sufficient for smaller projects like knife making?
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I was looking at buying a commercial hydraulic press and came across an Auction for Older Steam hammers in the 3000 range.. I almost want to buy one, but I don't have a clue as to how much air it would take to make one run.. I used to have a compressor that put out 100cfm at 100psi but it's long gone now.. I was looking at the Erie open frame or so.. What size compressor would I need to drive one of these? Brochure Proof - 4 Pager - FINAL.pdf
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I'm looking for a copy of the setup and adjustment guide for a 90 lb Bull Hammer. I noted several members had a pdf copy available back in 2011. I have a used hammer that I hope to install this summer. The PO had trouble with it smacking the top and went to a Big Blu. From what I have read here, it sounds like it just needs adjustment. Any help would be appreciated Thanks, Walt B
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Can anyone with a Fairbanks "E" 150 lb. power hammer post the dimensions for the top and bottom dies? This would be the combination dies that are "T' shaped. Many Thanks.
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Now, before I show pics, let me give a disclaimer. I was off for a week with nothing to do and I came across a 1/4 horse motor at a scrap yard for 3.50$. I had a broken axle with one good hub, a rim, a bunch of free electrodes for the welder and threaded rod for bolts. So my goal was not really to build a functioning power hammer but to perform an experiment and see if I could make it work. The experiment will continue and see how well it holds up to use. I made almost all of it replaceable. That being said, it works like a charm. I built the table out of 100 year old, real 2x4, barn lumber from a recent barn demo. The surface is reused deck boards. Held togeth…
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Hello Everybody; Just wanted to showcase a reasonably heavy treadle hammer. It started life as a guided helve hammer; but the central column isn't strong enough for that. So after some pondering; I turned it into a treadle hammer. And I specifically didn't choose the guided hammer type; but this type; because I had the option to make the arms really long; so the arc is from the user perspective almost a straight line. the anvil is a train axle; the hammer is a solid bar mild steel (3cm x 8cm x 100cm). I machines the hinges, the axles (30mm), the bearings (machined teflon) all myself on my lathe as practice, I plan to start on a real tire hammer nex…
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Got the Champion No. 0 out of the van and into the shop today to start taking it apart and see what shape it's in. Overall, it looks quite good. I don't have any experience with Babbitt's, so if anyone can comment on the pics, I would appreciate it. I believe they look decent enough to run as is but advice would be great. I'll update this thread as it comes together. I think my first task is to clean and paint.
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I'm in the process of buying a brand spanking new Anyang 88#, picking up in about 3 weeks. I think it comes with flat dies, and I'm buying a set of combo flat/drawing dies along with the hammer. I like all sorts of smithing, decorative, structural, but probably 75% of what I do is bladework, with a preference for pattern welded blades. no swords... yet.... I plan on making lots of hand held spring tools, flatters, fullers, texture etc..., to use with the flat dies, but I'm curious what dedicated (ie dovetail and keyed in) hammer dies others prefer for what type of work, ANY type of work, they do. What other dies are recommended by Y'all? And would you mak…
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Hi guys! First post here and I haven't seen a question placed just this way. If so, please excuse. My question is: What am I giving up, in a home shop setting, going with a quality tire hammer, like Clay Spenser's vs a quality air hammer like a smaller Big Blu? At something close to a 2 1/2 times difference in new price, the cost factor is obvious. What CAN'T I do with the tire hammer that I can do with the Big Blu and in your opinion, is it worth the extra cost in your home shop? Thanks for your replys!
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I am looking for dies for the Common Sense #2 hammer. Any knowledge or referrals of where to obtain would be greatly appreciated.
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Is anybody familiar with the inline treadle hammer produced by the Meyer Machine Tool Company? I've been on the road full time for over a year with a mobile cymbal shop built into a gutted and reinforced cabover truck camper. So far, I've used my 50lb LG to pre-process all of the cymbal blanks I take with me with one round of power hammering each. Then, I have to finish them with hand hammering out on the road. It sure would be nice to take a treadle hammer with me. And, the MMTC hammer has an optional power pack to turn the thing into an air-driven hammer. Anybody know anything about this hammer and its "power pack"? Thanks, Matt
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i have a kuhn reiter 55 kg powerhammer, that have a few problems: when i turn it on, the ram doesn't go up for about 20 min, on a cold day it takes up to an hour. when forging the ram doesn't go all the way up, and takes a few minutes before it goes up again after i stop forging, witch means i only get full power on the first blow. but i can push the ram up with my hands. there are a few air leaks, that might be the cause of the problem, but i don't know. hopefully someone here can help me picture of my hammer:
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JHCC, if you knew how the treadle hammer would hit, would you still have made it? It doesn't seem to hit real hard, though hard to tell from the video. Seems you could do just as much or more with a hand hammer. Littleblacksmith
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I am looking for a complete set of cushions for a 100lb. Bradley Cushioned Helve hammer. Any information regarding the original dimensions of the cushions would be helpful as well. Also, if anyone has had any success making new cushions or having them made, I'd love to hear about it. Thanks, Jason Lonon
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Soooo, may have jumped a little quick but I brought home a project. It's a bare bones LG 50, so bare it's just the frame. Already picked up the counterweight and sourced many parts but the clutch seems unavailable so far and I've put off ordering anything else until I know I can complete it. Main question, had anyone set one up with a tire for the clutch? very open to ideas and thanks for any input
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A Clay Spencer tire hammer to be exact. I make a lot of hooks n such. I’m wondering if I can draw and taper things very small with a tire hammer. Hope this is ok in this section.
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150 lb Beaudry by Barbour Stockwell (who bought Beaudry during the depression) WP_20180924_17_33_45_Pro.mp4
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Just a few picture of my rebuild project. A few pictures may be out of logical order, but you’ll get the idea. Two frames. One good, one not as good. Clean, disassemble, clean again, lube, reassemble in frame two. Figure out how to mount motor. Success and she runs.
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I'd like to introduce you to my hammer, Sancho Pound-za I built it last year, and it has served me well so far, but I feel like I could squeeze a bit more work out of it, hopefully without breaking anything important in the process. there are three ways I can think of to get more work out of it. In order of how good an idea I think they are: -add weight to the ram. Right now the weight of the ram, including dies is about 30lb. The anvil weighs about 400lbs, so I figure I should be good to add 10lbs. I was thinking I could essentially just add a 10lb spacer where the dies clamp on. That way I could remove it if I want a lighter ram weight, like for plannish…
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I picked up a Say Mak 110# that weighs about 2400 pounds total. I have very limited shop space so it will need to be mobile to move around for different projects. The casters I've been looking at have a leveling system that brings them up off the wheels and locks them into place. My question is have you seen hammers as big as these on wheels and do you think the hammering would be too much for the leveling rods to take? I couldn't paste a link to the type of caster but you can google workbench locking feet. I think I can get them rated for more weight. Thanks for any help. v
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I have a chance to buy a big blu 110 power hammer very good shape for $4000 it's like 2 years old, any thoughts thanks in advance
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Original build. The anvil was 2 pieces of c-channel filled with sand and oil capped with a rail track. It was a terrible design. Here is the original video. Now here is the rebuild. Cut out the old anvil. Here is the new anvil. Almost 500 lbs using a forklift tine to add 20 lbs to the tup. getting ready to weld new anvil in Built a new guide so it isnt metal on metal. used a different forklift tine for dies. and here it is done with a video. https://youtu.be/FhEvEEKqdvU
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I'm drooling over the idea of making a powerhammer Little Giant-style. I've come across a site where the author of that site offers plans. Now, there has been 400+ being made from these plans according to him. so I assume he knows what he's talking about. I have a question regarding the anvil post. The author warns about taking shortcuts regarding the anvil. A tube filled with something won't do according to him, as it must be a solid block of steel. Where do you find a three feet long 10 to 12 inch diameter piece of steel? The closest I can get in finding something like that would be in a ship yard. A piece of a large discarded propeller-axle would do nicely,…
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My 150lb Iron Kiss keeps crapping out on me. It will work correctly and the make some top end hits and then just sit at the bottom. Air pressure is fine and I suspect roller valve/s. I am not proficient in preumatics and wondered whether anyone could suggest who I might call to fix this for me. I am in Port Orchard WA.
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Hey guys I was wondering if someone could help me figure out why some of my material is twisting in the power hammer. I finished building a power hammer tire hammer recently and have been making sets of tongs but when drawing out, sometimes the tapers will twist on me. any ideas?
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