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About basher

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    Bladesmith and Blacksmith.

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    london UK
  • Interests
    Pattern welding , swords and other pointys , Power hammers and all things hot and squishy .

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  1. My latest sword a patternwelded single edged viking with patternwelded fittings. hope you like it. stay safe out there.
  2. thanks for all the kind comments. the blade is a simple san mai construction of bell-clapper wrought iron over 1095 core.
  3. “Far over the misty mountains cold, To dungeons deep and caverns old, We must away, Ere break of day, To claim our long forgotten Gold The latest Seax by Myself and Petr Florianek... My blade but Petr has surpassed himself with the blade carving , handle and sheath ...My fave to date. hope you like it. [
  4. I weld up billets, use collers for wrap around swords where I want the edge material to be able to slide along the core as it stretches instaed of bunching up and somtimes use wire wrapping or shaped tongs. use whatever you have that works for you.
  5. yes they are slagg inclusions , part of using that material. its not perfect and is in fact big ones are the main cause of failed blades for me... I accept small ones a part of the charm of the material as it is part of the material.
  6. hi les, the blade is made from 5 bars of metal. wrought iron at the spine then 2 twists made from 7 layers of steel one twisted clockwise one anticlockwise . Then another layer of wrought iron and random pattern of about 240 layers at the edge. cheers for the kind commen ts all.
  7. This is lhe latest colaberation knife made by myself and Czech bladesmith Petr Florianek. Inspired by saxon swords the 11" blade and handle are made by me and the carving and Sterling silver handle ornamentation is by Petr. Hope you like it.
  8. you will have to be on it they don't come up often and go quick . I would join the British artist blacksmiths facebook page , look at ebay every day gumtree too and facebook marketplace.. hammers do not hang around the last sahinler I bought I speed typed "I'll have it if its in good working order and will pay imediatly" and the seller had over 10 more inquiries in the next 10 minutes . If you umm and err then someone else will own it. I would recommend you look at anyang forging hammers in the Uk sold by Massey forging. ill send you a message with John nicolsons contact details for massey anyang.
  9. could you please explain how a tong help punch is safer than the hafted punch?
  10. If you really want to go down this route have a look at "trip hammers" in reality. they are mostly big and heavy (many hundred pounds in the head) and running from a drive with huge inertia being powered by water. There are much better ways of harnessing a limited Hp and a guided helve spring hammer or tyre hammer would be able to utilise the limited power much more efficiently. the DaVincy hammer is elegant looking , but one has to ask ones self why it was never used during the period when similar technology was in use for almost a thousand years . I am thinking that having a slower moving larger radius with pegs was better as far as friction is concerned and that the seemingly elegant continuous lift of the DaVinci hammer has no real world advantage. I have found it worth my while to take the time and find an actual working model to copy when trying to make complex workshop tools ...even traveling across the atlatic when needed to see rolling mills and presses. saves wasted time space and money in the long run. unless what you want does not exist...then you will have to make it up!
  11. my current forge anvil along with a swage block is on 4 castors no problem at all. not even locking castors....but its a reasonably big anvil and a swage block so has a lot of inertia.
  12. yes thats the one I had ... here is the one I was talking about though.. so definatly a kingshorne.
  13. I believe its an early kingshorne hammer. made in todmorden , Uk made. I had a slightly different version of it a 90lb which is now in sweden . they get around a lot went to Australia. I think one of my students has the same hammer, i'll try and get him to chime in.
  14. I have run a few of my hammers at different speeds through a VFD , and you can most certainly get much finer control from a little slowing down of the hammer or indeed sometimes a little more power from very little speeding it up! I found that on the hammers I tried there was a sweet spot for power and a different slower one for best control. I don't know how your oiler works (vacuum?) but I would monitor the oil consumption and check you are getting a film of oil to the front ram. I have just purchases a VFD for my sahinler 110lb hammer to do just the same thing.
  15. yes is to the question:- "is it possible for the secondary bevel to create drag or hinder the cut in any way" definite yes!