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About basher

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  • Location
    london UK
  • Interests
    Pattern welding , swords and other pointys , Power hammers and all things hot and squishy .

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  1. I think the 9" grinder is one of the most usefull metal working tools...they need guards and apropriat PPE and need to be used carefully but I use mine on a daily basis I have one set up for cutting and one for grinding and one with a cup wheel for hogging. like a power hammer they are potentially dangerous but also like a power hammer they can do a lot of work and be used with precision.
  2. I am afraid that I no longer have records for the 2 spring manufacturers I used one in St Ives and one in NE London. both were prompt and did good work. there are lots of them around though I would just do a search...
  3. I kill em all....I have had makita and bosh and dewalt give good service but they all die. going for a pro model over a cheapy makes them much nicer to use but they still die! I treat them as a consumable.
  4. the oonly time I have seen brassy dust is when my hammer threw an oil cup and wore out a bronze bearing.....but it was not a small amount.
  5. I use these knives in the kitchen as well as a lot of other carbon steel knives and some stainless steel clad and stainless steel knives and in use they are just fine. You have to clean them and dry them (imediatly) and an acasional wipe down with 10000 grit micro mesh brings the pattern back. I much prefer carbon steel kitchen knives and have tried some high end stainless steel ones and find they do not sharpen as easily or get as sharp as the carbon steel knives. but they do require no care and can be thrown in a dishwasher! With damascus kitchen knives the trick seems to be having a bolder pattern that is easier to clean back and get contrast so these fit the bill. the things that will not work in the kitchen so well are the 1000 layer knives with fine pattern. I get a lot of good feed back from customers and I think people like the relationship that comes with having to put a little attention and care into somthing.
  6. I had promised myself more "development" time this year and have been playing with some patterns . One I really wanted to visit is the feather is my take on it. Trying to make feather that looks like a feather (amoungst other stuff!) somthing a little bigger with silver ferrule and some offshutes ying tang feather! and a bit of zebra! its been fun!
  7. I have been playing with patterns...I took an iron jewelry class with Janos Gabor Varga earlier this year ( a great class) and it got me thinking about some patterns...a bit of experimentation and a few mistakes later this came along! Helter skelter pattern... what do you recon?
  8. Hi temperature and low temperature salts are a standard modern way of heat treating. Using the high temperature salts at austenising Temp (800C up to 1050 for some stainless steels) and then quenching into low temperature salts (often preheated to 200+ centegrade) . the low temp salts can also be used for tempering or banite formation. there is very little oxidisation and internal circulation gives a very even heating....however there are associated dangers with liquid salts.....liquids at high temp being a lot more dangerous than the solids we are so used to dealing with.
  9. I am interested in trying one. . I have used the greaseless finishing compound and did not find it useful...However it should be noted that the people I now who use these are generally making soft clad blades (san Mai) and only usint these to finiah..and I think there is a world of difference when grinding these blades as opposed to full carbon steel. with my bladesmithing school I get through 1000+ belts a year ...I would love a more eco or economic alternative!
  10. Hi frosty, I have had a few mechanical hammers break springs (3 to date two 60's and a 150lb) in each case there was not a simple break but the spring broke into multiple pieces some shards much smaller than your guards. holes. I had the hemmer springs wrapped in leather and there was no problem or risk at all...all the shards were contained. I have seen similar spring wraps done with with fire hose .
  11. thats the idea, damascus is great I still love making it even 25 years after my first billet.
  12. This is the latest collaboration sword from myself Petr Florianek . We wanted to make another fantasy sword yet at the same time keeping a firm grip on reality. This a very much a “real” sword but also a dragon slaying hero’s sword! The sword blade takes inspiration from early Saxon blades, marrying that history into Tolkien’s middle earth and the world of the Rohirrim horse lords. The blade was made by myself and the handle and scabbard are Petr’s work. The blade takes inspiration from early Saxon patternwelded blades and has a lenticular section giving it the heft and strength needed when fighting dragons! It is important for me that anything I make has a functional reality to it. A reality based upon the imagined purpose of the object . This is the sword of a mighty horselord hero with the pride and fate of his people behind him. A sword for battling a dragon. Bryneleoma has a patternwelded blade 3 core bars twisted anticlockwise, clockwise and anticlockwise, the core bars are wrapped in a high layer damascus edge . The bold core pattern contrasting the fine layers of the edge. In Petr’s words… I wanted to make a truly heroic sword and when given Owen’s mighty blade, I had enough inspiration to get the feel of it. The blade is hefty and long so I immediately started to picture a mounted warrior; a hero on a horse, a proto knight if you will. The inspiration for this sword is firmly set in Tolkien’s Middle Earth, in the world of the Rohirrim horse lord. The motives for ornamentation are simple – he dragon on the pommel as the most powerful enemy but also a symbol to ward off evil. On the handle a series of knots representing fate being spun by higher beings. The knot on the guard symbolises oath, the oath of the horse lord bound to his people as their protector. An oath from sword to swordsman, the guard of the sword being there to protect its heroic master. I love doing these pieces with Petr, and always look forward to getting the finished piece. He has a way of bringing a blade to life.....
  13. thats a nice hammer...I have found that it is much easier to weld wrought iron to steel in a gas forge than in a coke or coal forge, it's something I do quite regularly welding at steel temp. As an aside My first forging hammer was made like this and I eventually beat the face off of it. there was a curved nail holding the steel onto the wrought body and it must have been used to hold the pieces together during welding. I put it somewhere "safe" about 20 years ago so I wouldn't lose it.......maybe I'll find it one day.
  14. I used to wonder what they are for but over the years I have found mine quite usefull. Mine has a dish in it and I have in the past made 1000"s of candle sconses, I use the V and large half round swages for sorge welding sword tips into . and closing bird mouth welsa. The other half rounds are great for supporting round stock that needs forge welding or cleaning up. I have modified the edges of some of the half round swages to use for turning the swaged handles of little blacksmiths knives I make. I have mine mounted high it makes it much easier to work.
  15. I have gad good results grinding surfaces clean at 36 grit then applying wd40 and immediately welding around the billet (MIG). then soaking at welding head and heavy forging under press and power hammer , the important thing is to increase the weld surface area a lot at least double it. i forge strait to finished knife thickness as thick billets will tend to crack the core. Ive also used argon and oil and weld is easier.