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About basher

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    Bladesmith and Blacksmith.

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    london UK
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    Pattern welding , swords and other pointys , Power hammers and all things hot and squishy .

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  1. If you really want to go down this route have a look at "trip hammers" in reality. they are mostly big and heavy (many hundred pounds in the head) and running from a drive with huge inertia being powered by water. There are much better ways of harnessing a limited Hp and a guided helve spring hammer or tyre hammer would be able to utilise the limited power much more efficiently. the DaVincy hammer is elegant looking , but one has to ask ones self why it was never used during the period when similar technology was in use for almost a thousand years . I am thinking that having a slower moving larger radius with pegs was better as far as friction is concerned and that the seemingly elegant continuous lift of the DaVinci hammer has no real world advantage. I have found it worth my while to take the time and find an actual working model to copy when trying to make complex workshop tools ...even traveling across the atlatic when needed to see rolling mills and presses. saves wasted time space and money in the long run. unless what you want does not exist...then you will have to make it up!
  2. my current forge anvil along with a swage block is on 4 castors no problem at all. not even locking castors....but its a reasonably big anvil and a swage block so has a lot of inertia.
  3. yes thats the one I had ... here is the one I was talking about though.. so definatly a kingshorne.
  4. I believe its an early kingshorne hammer. made in todmorden , Uk made. I had a slightly different version of it a 90lb which is now in sweden . they get around a lot went to Australia. I think one of my students has the same hammer, i'll try and get him to chime in.
  5. I have run a few of my hammers at different speeds through a VFD , and you can most certainly get much finer control from a little slowing down of the hammer or indeed sometimes a little more power from very little speeding it up! I found that on the hammers I tried there was a sweet spot for power and a different slower one for best control. I don't know how your oiler works (vacuum?) but I would monitor the oil consumption and check you are getting a film of oil to the front ram. I have just purchases a VFD for my sahinler 110lb hammer to do just the same thing.
  6. yes is to the question:- "is it possible for the secondary bevel to create drag or hinder the cut in any way" definite yes!
  7. yes is the answer . the smoother the transition the easier the blade will pass through material.
  8. I would refer anyone who is interested to the book :- The Solid Phase welding of metals By R.F.Tylecote and it's geeky but good , I think I will read it again. (xxxx just looked it up on amazon and its a £170 book! think its available on google books though!) In the process of hammer welding mild steel and wrought iron the material is often taken to a point where the outside of the material melts , from a practical POV this allows the ejection of the iron oxide on the surface. Iron oxide has a slightly higher melting point than iron so the use of a flux can lower its melting point. however even though the material is molten at the surface this is not a necessary state for forge welding (if the surfaces are free of oxide). any liquid will be by definition ejected when you hit the piece with a hammer and it is the solid t solid material that is joining. The material must be solid to transfer force from one piece to the other liquid will flow away from the pressed surfaces. you are looking at 3 main factors when solid state welding heat, pressure and an oxide free surface. In industrial processes such as roll welding it is often pressure that is the main factor , materials are free ox oxide and clean, excessive heat is expensive and under normal circumstances produces oxides. so welding as low as 300C is often done (thousands of PSI) . to an extent the pressure and heat are interchangeable dependant upon the exact application and material limitations (also extreme pressure often momentarily produces heat in the material) However in a blacksmiths shop heat energy is more available than huge tonnage . so we tend to defer to very hot welding using borax or other methods to remove (hopefully) the oxide layer formed when heating. The borax is not an essential part of the process and infact has to be ejected from the joining surfaces or it will cause problems. Its not necessary if you keep material clean and protected from oxygen (welding up the seems or putting in a canister , using argon etc ) then the forge welding can happen at a much lower temp, well within normal forging range , for some materials this is beneficial because of the grain growth problems associated with high temp. A lower Temp also means that more force from the hammer blows is going into putting pressure from one piece of material to another as there is less plastic potentially the welds are stronger..... I am lucky that I have learned numerous ways fo forge welding as a blacksmith in the UK (non borax welding at sparking heat), from Americans using borax at slippery heat and then using borax at a much lower heat ....a few different versions of that over the years . then again in America canister welding with a drop of oil to remove oxygen and same using argon . also seam welding up billets to exclude oxygen and finally my preferred current method. which is " bare back welding" using a reducing atmosphere and no borax..... so I don't look at the subject as a single process. forge welding is a whole bag of tricks all with their own benefits and limitations.... I do love forge welding ...feels like magic...However its is a well understood process in industry and more about being methodical then mysterious! and I guess that there is no need to know why its working if what you are doing works!
  9. I hear what you are saying but it’s simply not the case....and definitions have not a lot to do with it.. no liquid or partial liquid involved. It’s simple solid state fusion . I forge weld at the same temp I forge! . But anyhow. It does not make a lot of difference to the practice of the process.
  10. Not appropriate in that definition either I am afraid . Forge welding is solid state fusion. Thereis no liquid involved apart from flux if you are using that. I looked up liquidious and it means completely liquid;- ‘I forge weld material with a melting point of between 1400C and 1500C at 1200 to 1300 C...Totally solid The solidus is the highest temperature at which an alloy is solid – where melting begins. The liquidus is the temperature at which an alloy is completely melted. At temperatures between the solidus and liquidus the alloy is part solid, part liquid. The difference between the solidus and liquidus is called the melting range. forge welding of carbon steels is way below Solidus. Mild steel will withstand being brought to it’s melting point but does not have to be that hot, to be forge welded.
  11. In most cases this is simply not the true, especially pattern-welding carbon steel where you are welding 2 or 300C below the melting point of the material. It's a solid state fusion no liquid metal at all. directionality is important when using borax for billet welding , work from one end to another with overlapping blows , with a hand hammer , power hammer or press. I hit hard to set patternweld if working by hand .hard quick overlapping blows. On a hammer or press I go a bit more gentle so as not to spread the billet like a pack of cards first hit. you have to think of it like the last bits of toothpaste in a tube of toothpaste.
  12. what is wrong with the moderators here ? someone is looking for a supply of oil? how the xxxx are they supposed to find it if you remove links. I persevere with a presence here because I have a strong passion for the craft and feel like there should be at least a few professionals to offer advise amidst all the noise, most of them left a long time ago..... but xxxx its hard work.
  13. have a look at the exel range , I use their fast , standard and marquenching oil. rape seed oil (canola) also works very well. Commercial link removed.
  14. The log splitter seems to work fine for what its is. smaller bites would make much faster working. I would be a little concerned about the frame flexing but really its soooooo much better than by hand.
  15. yes exactly that. the alldays and onions hammers and pilkingtons work like that, bigger pistons and a simpler valving.