• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About basher

  • Rank
    Bladesmith and Blacksmith.
  • Birthday 06/25/1971

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • Skype

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    london UK
  • Interests
    Pattern welding , swords and other pointys , Power hammers and all things hot and squishy .
  1. Its a hard one, I oficialy have enough stuff but the off button is hard to find.....
  2. I have thought about this , make sure that your motor controle valve allows for the continuation of the flow of oil around the motor circuit as the motor tries to stop but the inertia of the large weights involved keep pumping oil, very easy to have a situation where huge pressures are generated.
  3. My latest Kitchen knife . Inspired by seaxes, bowies, Khyber knives and Criollo Knives (Gaucho's knife) and yatagahn . I have always been fascinated by these large "gentlemans companion knives" that form a part of so many cultures attire over so long a time. Equally at home in the kitchen or on adventures in the dim distant past, or for that matter a (slightly steam punk) dystopian future..... ] 13.5 long 2.5" wide blade , Patternwelding in the saxon style . Wearing walnut sterling silver and a little copper. The knife weighs 15oz .This one will have a sheath..N european type with fittings of silver or copper?
  4. Jarn Hond (Iron Hand) This single handed Norse sword is patternwelded from 4 bars of steel, 3 twisted bars of 7 layers twisted clockwise, anticlockwise and then clockwise again. The 700 layer edge shows subtle patterning in contrast to the twists. My favorite patternwelding has elements that can be seen from a distance and then subtle patterning in the steel that draw you in, bling bling , wait a minute whats going on there! Material for blade and fittings is 15n20 and EN42J (1080ish) The guard is made from patternwelded steel, forged and heavily etched to emulate striped inlay, and is the bit I'm super stoked about .I have tried this a few times over the years and this was the first time I got the scale of the stripes rite without messing with them. I simply do not have the patients for wire inlay work so this is my in the style of could have been done like this version of inlay! The blade is 31 ¾ inches long, 5mm thick at the guard, and 1 3/4 inches wide. The sword is 38.5 inches long over all. Point of balance is 5 inches into the blade. The sword weighs 2lb and 10oz. The fittings have given this sword its name “Iron Hand”. The handle is leather over wood. I deeply etched the fittings so there is a textual diference as well as colour and depth. All steel blade with bold and fine pattern. close up of the Tip
  5. I started with mechanical, still have a soft spot for them and thing they are elegant tools (often quite beautifull too!) but I prefer air hammers. much better to work with more versatile. If you have power supply issues you get more hit for your HP from a mechanical. apart from that its (self contained) air all the way for me.
  6. O1 would not be my first choice for a punch I would mach ratherr use en9 eny time. The reason I would not want O1 is its tendancy to air harden. the potential that It may do that if the end gets too hot and cools rapidly, with the risk of shattering. I have found that all hot tools need some reworking, somtimes every heat (when punching deep holes with a thin punch). H13 is a good steel but needs specialist HT. I also Like En45 as its quite red hard and has a high hardening temp (900C) so is less likly to harden on you when cooling the punch off. I then to draw the temper on the struck end y striking tools to a dull (visible in a darkned room) red , more of a sub critical anneal. I repeat this when ever I have to dress them to prevent work hardening. I have hersd good things about the s series steels that farriers use for punches but have no personal experience with them.
  7. I dont think its all that odd, I doubt its straight water. But spring temper temps are way way higher than most of us go. and tempering in the 400 to 600 C range makes sense. I temper crossbow prods at 430C. In this state the behave elasicly within their elastic limit and can be altered by bending them beyond that. you are tempering all the way up untill subcritical anneal (high temp temper of martensite) up in the 700C's for normal carbon steels. A lot of spring alteration is done post HT. I also know of one person killed from straightening a spring under a hydraulic what industry does in a repeated and knowledgable way is not the same as having a go in the shop.
  8. tis true, there is some peeking out though....I wanted to try a few leather wrapped handled for seax as Petr has done some for me and I liked them. I am spoilt for burl wood and this was what I had cut in the right size.
  9. Here is the latest seax I have finished:- This is a 5 bar seax blade. It is constructed from vintage wrought iron, then 2 layers of 7 layer alternating twist and another layer of wrought iron and 700 layer random pattern Damascus at the edge. The blade is handled in elm and Lether and copper and sheathed in leather. The sheath has an ajustable strap to alter the angle of the dangle.
  10. Tis a dragon slayer......I love the freedom of a hero piece (and 3.5 lb is not outside of the relms of a viking sword of this scale)
  11. FYRDRACASLAGA (Fire Dragon Slayer) By Owen Bush and Petr florianek. A Dwarf made hero’s sword for slaying fire dragons. In our discussions and musings, Petr and myself tend to think of our work as that of the Dark Elves (from the Nordic heritage) or Dwarves (from the world of JRR Tolkien) Working magic and craftsmanship together with the raw stuff of nature, these mythical artisans forge the weapons of legend for the gods and for mortal heros. The sword blade is made by myself and the handle, sheath and fittings are made by Petr Fliorianek (Gullinbursti) The sword blade is forged with eleven bars of steel, 3 fine twisted layers and 4 pin stripes along with two bold twisted star bars and high layer random pattern at the edge. The pattern plays with the juxtaposition between bold pattern and the finer flowing patterns of the edge. The stars patterns are set like jewels to catch a dragons eye…..come closer….come closer….. The blade has a shallow lenticular section. The guard and pommel are made in bronze (tin bronze) the style is dwarven. The pommel shows ancestor rage face and the guard has dragons to ward off evil. Runes of the pommel ferrule say ‘OWEN’ and ‘GULLI’, short for the Nordic Mythical Golden Boar Gullinbursti which is Petr’s avatar. Runes of the guard ferrule say ‘FYRDRACASLAGA’ (Fire dragon slayer) This is repeated on the strap on the scabbard. The scabbard is linden (lime wood). It is wool lined and covered in linen and then leather. There are bronze dragon heads and wrought iron fittings The rondell on the scabbard is Elk antler with a wyrm carving, there is a single garnet for its eye. The sword weighs 3lb 6oz and the point of balance is 14cm into the blade. Blade is 76.5 cm long and 6.5 cm wide at the hilt. Sword overall length is is 92cm. The sword feels powerful and purposeful. I am proud of this one Petr has (once again ) done a wonderfull , using his mastery at bring this mythical blade to life. I hope you like it.
  12. I would be much more interested in hearing about your stats from the same forge with a different burner. I have switched from blown burners to Venturi burners a few years ago, I find them better and simpler to use. The company who makes the burners (Amal) has a gas air mixer made for ribbon burners, I have one but have not devoted the time to playing with it yet or figuring out the burner. I am always interested in saving money,( it's not unusual for me to have 5 forges running at the same time here) but find convenience/ease of use to be my priority .
  13. Here is the latest blade I have made its a comission , going onward to Petr Florianek to do some handle and sheath magic on... The construction is as follows. Wrought iron on the spine then 2 bars of alternate twist and straight. These bars are made up of 7 layers 4 of which are actually 40 layer’s. Its a subtle twist pattern. There is another layer of wrought iron and then that is tooth welded with 360 layers of steel at the edge. the blade is a tad under 20" The Tip The Blade close up closer up
  14. the weight is 1 lb 15 Oz, 9.5 inches along the edge. Thanks for all the kind words
  15. Here is the latest Axe I have finished. I started it last year whilst working along side of a student who made a dane axe from riggers shackles. A damascus Dane axe, low layern Body folded and punched and then a high layer edge . Materials 15n20 and en42J... The material follows the shape of th eye and although the axe is folded I completly forge welded it and re punched through the material. The higher layer edge is wrapped over the lower layer core material. I wanted tight subtle pattern in the edge and a bold body.