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About basher

  • Rank
    Bladesmith and Blacksmith.
  • Birthday 06/25/1971

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  • Gender
  • Location
    london UK
  • Interests
    Pattern welding , swords and other pointys , Power hammers and all things hot and squishy .
  1. There are numerous ways you can achieve this shape, the method you sujest will work but neesd some specialist tooling to support the barbs. there would also be a couple of ways to forge weld it together. Doing it small enough is the challenge, I woiuld start bigger and then scale down once you have a method that works.
  2. Benton, you would be most welcome.
  3. I try and do as much as I can with power tools and I have a lot of them, multiple power hammers, multiple grinders, lathe , milling machine etc. I will turn to hand tools if the job is specific to them or if the power tools lack the precision . However I am quite good at making the power tools work beyond where other people turn to hand tools. I love hand forging but always bulk the work out under the power hammer (I love power hammers!)....I hate hand sanding and now do almost none just a blending 3 or 4 minutes after sharpening and before the etch!
  4. pretty much the only maintenance I have had to do on any of my grinders is change bearings on contact wheels , motors. the only other thing I can think of is reflattening or replacing plattens. bearings often last a decade or so of hard work somtimes longer.
  5. I would add my recomendation of Lee sauder. I spent a week with him and would highly recomend it , I had 40 or so smelts under my belt when I visited him and learned a lot about all sorts of stuff. other places to look:- iron smelters of the world facebook page, daily smelts going on all over the world. bloomers and buttons on bladesmiths forum (huge amount of great info on smelting) there is a smelting festival planned in ireland for late august next year. lots of european smelters , holland , luxemberg spain and Germany to name a few I know of. I would be happy to help with any UK based info feel free to email me at [email protected] I run a once a year smelting class but its this week....smelted today and on monday making iron and then steel....going to be a busy week.
  6. Thanks for the kind words, I'll get more Vids done when time allows. Cheers Owen
  7. a Half hour "How to" Video . Forging a Blacksmiths Knife.
  8. Here are the oficial Alldays foundation spec:- [ it is a deep foundation and is probably optimal. I have a "proper" foundation for my 200 alldays and I dont regret it (30 man days in the instilation!). I run 3 100wt hammers mounted on sleepers (so non optimal) and I am verry happy with them for me they do not need more.
  9. Nice hammer. I have the foundation recomendations and blueprints etc that came with my Alldays 100 weight. I can email pictures of them to you if you want.(I only just got the 100 but run a 200 alldays and a 100 Pilkington (Old alldays). I am going to raise the 100 weight on new bought oak sleepers. A layer of sleepers and 50mm board on top brings the hammer to a good working height for me.. For a one piece hammer like this ther is not the need for a seperate concrete block. I put a cast block in for my 200 but that has a seperate base. I have seen people waste an awfull lot of money putting weird steel bases under hammers. There would be no problem with a high strength concrete., or making a thin steel boz and filling it wioth concrete..... I am going with wood for mine, I may cut the floor around the hammer to isolate it from the rest of the pad. I would love to see how you have the belt drive done as the gear on gear noise of these hammers makes thewm noisy. I would add a spring or two to the back of the treddle as I find the weight only return on an alldays a little slow. Email me at [email protected] if you want me to photograph the info I have on the 100.
  10. Its a hard one, I oficialy have enough stuff but the off button is hard to find.....
  11. I have thought about this , make sure that your motor controle valve allows for the continuation of the flow of oil around the motor circuit as the motor tries to stop but the inertia of the large weights involved keep pumping oil, very easy to have a situation where huge pressures are generated.
  12. My latest Kitchen knife . Inspired by seaxes, bowies, Khyber knives and Criollo Knives (Gaucho's knife) and yatagahn . I have always been fascinated by these large "gentlemans companion knives" that form a part of so many cultures attire over so long a time. Equally at home in the kitchen or on adventures in the dim distant past, or for that matter a (slightly steam punk) dystopian future..... ] 13.5 long 2.5" wide blade , Patternwelding in the saxon style . Wearing walnut sterling silver and a little copper. The knife weighs 15oz .This one will have a sheath..N european type with fittings of silver or copper?
  13. Jarn Hond (Iron Hand) This single handed Norse sword is patternwelded from 4 bars of steel, 3 twisted bars of 7 layers twisted clockwise, anticlockwise and then clockwise again. The 700 layer edge shows subtle patterning in contrast to the twists. My favorite patternwelding has elements that can be seen from a distance and then subtle patterning in the steel that draw you in, bling bling , wait a minute whats going on there! Material for blade and fittings is 15n20 and EN42J (1080ish) The guard is made from patternwelded steel, forged and heavily etched to emulate striped inlay, and is the bit I'm super stoked about .I have tried this a few times over the years and this was the first time I got the scale of the stripes rite without messing with them. I simply do not have the patients for wire inlay work so this is my in the style of could have been done like this version of inlay! The blade is 31 ¾ inches long, 5mm thick at the guard, and 1 3/4 inches wide. The sword is 38.5 inches long over all. Point of balance is 5 inches into the blade. The sword weighs 2lb and 10oz. The fittings have given this sword its name “Iron Hand”. The handle is leather over wood. I deeply etched the fittings so there is a textual diference as well as colour and depth. All steel blade with bold and fine pattern. close up of the Tip
  14. I started with mechanical, still have a soft spot for them and thing they are elegant tools (often quite beautifull too!) but I prefer air hammers. much better to work with more versatile. If you have power supply issues you get more hit for your HP from a mechanical. apart from that its (self contained) air all the way for me.
  15. O1 would not be my first choice for a punch I would mach ratherr use en9 eny time. The reason I would not want O1 is its tendancy to air harden. the potential that It may do that if the end gets too hot and cools rapidly, with the risk of shattering. I have found that all hot tools need some reworking, somtimes every heat (when punching deep holes with a thin punch). H13 is a good steel but needs specialist HT. I also Like En45 as its quite red hard and has a high hardening temp (900C) so is less likly to harden on you when cooling the punch off. I then to draw the temper on the struck end y striking tools to a dull (visible in a darkned room) red , more of a sub critical anneal. I repeat this when ever I have to dress them to prevent work hardening. I have hersd good things about the s series steels that farriers use for punches but have no personal experience with them.