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About basher

  • Rank
    Bladesmith and Blacksmith.
  • Birthday 06/25/1971

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  • Gender
  • Location
    london UK
  • Interests
    Pattern welding , swords and other pointys , Power hammers and all things hot and squishy .
  1. They are great grinders, available here (in the UK) as loser grinders made in germany under licence over here they cost megga bucks.. I have 1 and have adapted a bunch of other grinders for the longer belts. I see them on US ebay quite a bit.
  2. I ended up with a beaver. one cheaper kind of bridge port knock off . I am very happy with it . it is worth remembering that the mill is only about half the cost . the tooling is just as much if not more than the machine.
  3. I have a b2 and know a couple of smiths withe them. Theuy have advantages and didagvantaged over the newer model. the round mounting means you can get a littel inventive with the tracking but lacks thye indexing that a swuare arm does. They are great tools and with the od bearing change will last indefinatly. I have boufght a few things from Bader over the years and their service is second to none. even when dealing with them from the UK.
  4. It is quite normal for a blade to saber with a nose dive if quenched into oil. it can be a hard thing to predict though. I often harde sword blades in rectangular section and then grind in the bevel after HT. or pre curve the blade a little to take acount of the nose dive. I have managed to get saber out by holding the blade edge down in two vices and aplying pressure with a fly press, all of this done at Tempering temperature, I would not advise it though its literaly a make or break fix. The only easy way to deal with it is to grind the blade straight.
  5. It will totaly depend upon the spec of the press, in general 12 tonns is about the minimum that is really much use for forging. Unless you are punching and the ram is fast under load. I have a friend who had a very similar press to that and it was not much cop. they are also oftern spring return which makes the ram return very slow.
  6. well looking around I see that this is exactly what you did......How did it go?
  7. W2 can have a varying manganese content, some of it is very shallow hardening , some more like 1095 (still pretty shallow hardening). This has worked a few times on UK W2 and on Don Hansens lower manganese W2 from the USA. 3 decending normalisations at 830C,800C and then 750C (more of a sub critical anneal). Then harden from 770C with a 10 min soak. into water around 40C for a count of 3 seconds and then strait into pre heated OIL at 80C untill blade has cooled to oil temp . temper imediatly. There is still a risk of the blade cracking with an interupted quench but I have god good results with water then oil. Some people seem to do OK into straight water either as an interupted water quench , into and out of then into the water again or just with a hard core full unterupted water quench. If you harden into water in any way then you risk the dreaded cracks..but can get some much more interesting Hamon... Some W2 wil get a nice Hamon into a faster quenching oil, but the edge needs to be a lot thinner to get this material to harden to any depth. I have got some good results quenching from 770Cwith my UK fast quenching oil (much slower than parks50) at 120C (Hot oil is very very dangerous and this temp may not be safe with some quenching oils). OIl givs a very slight reverse Sori as well (at least the way I do it.). I would definatly make a small tanto sized blade as a test blade before doing your bigger blades. photograph your clay'd blade before you quench so you can compare Hamon and clay lines as well as any sori changes Good luck.
  8. I do block the ram but find that the spring assemblies on the hammers I have are so heavy that a crain is still needed to lift them into position, it could be done without a crane if it was a two man job (just , with leavers) .
  9. I am reading this with great interest, the amal gas air mixers I use supply a short choke mixer for use in ring burners, my imediat thoughts were that this would cross over to ribbon burners as well. I have had one sittingaround for a year waiting for time to have a play. are these burners quieter than your non ribbon burners? I am becoming more and more fed up of losing my voice over the roar of gas forges.
  10. I can easily get single blows from all of my air hammers, none of them are as trixy as the massey , I had the pleasure of meeting a lovely 300 massey last thursday, quite the tool. when In perfect tune I can also get single blow from my spring hammers, but to get them doing it nicly requires a lot of fiddling and they go out of tune easily. I almost never use a single blow though . I have an air brain when I am working ( as the term has been coined) , A lot of people I know do. I will often have multiple sized things in the fire at once, I multy task all the time, grind during heat up . I have timers on for heat treat and will have 4 or 5 things on the go. I still have mechanicals , I have a goliath (60lb spring hammer, called Athelstan) that has been my companion for 15 years and I doubt Ill let that one go. but for me the instant versatility of the air hammer means all my work goes under them. I do not consider that the constant blow rate is a down side, or rater I thought the variable blow rate of my mechanicals was a down side and found the constant blow of the air hammer to be a bonus. I found , and find that ajusting the pitman on a spring hammer to be a royal pain, and way beyond the relm of minor ajustment, for my hammers it involves an overhead crane, or awkwardly placed engine hoist . blocks and swearing....
  11. I think that I am finally getting some of whats being discusses here . I have seen youtube videos of german smiths running 200lb+ federhammers and punching with very slow strokes. none of my mechanicals have had the weight to do this very well (my 90lb kingshorn bow spring hammer has a huge range of travel and gets close). However I can do a great job of replicating this with 2 of my air hammers one with speed controle and one with variable pressure/vaccuum, although the variable vaccuum still runs at the same bpm. However in reality I would use a press for this job. I think that the versitility that you are claiming for mechanical hammers is such a specific versitility that it creats a bit of a dichotomy. I do not believe that a lot of people would consider that having to re-ajust and retool a hammer to achieve a possibly larger overall range of distinct specific and limited use is infact more versitile. At least for most of us. Having run power hammers for 22 years now ,I am constantly impresses by the diferent ways people use and run them, I have certainly learned a lot over the last 15 years from people who are much more varied (or indeed specific) in their hammer uses. and the tool has changed for me from a machine for bashing out tapers to somthing much more versitile. there is a lor more to learn still.
  12. I have had lots of hammers, mechanical and air and there are only a couple of reasons i would chose a mechanical over air. one is economy, economy of power consumption, you get a lot more hit per HP whith a mechanical, If you have single phaze or limited ampage then they can be the only answer, I had a 60 lb goliath running on 1hp (they run better on 5 though) The other is economy of purchase they are often a lot cheaper. If you ad to that economy of repair, and I would include "easy to understand for a layperson" within that..... I have a place (very limited) for the soft slow blow in my work but have become much more fond of the soft fast blow of an air hammer. the soft slow blow slows you down when forging to a fine forged finish under the hammer. I would love a fast spring hammer (400bpm) as there is an obvious advantage in that for a limited mumber of jobs. Otherwise in use, I prefer my air hammers. Forging 5mm stock, fullering it with a tall fuller and all in the same minute (i work a lot of stuff in the fire at once) working 60mm square damascus billets. I run my pilkington on a VFD and can ajust the speed, this changes the blow power dramaytically but can give a wonderfull slow paced hit. I use the start up exhaust on my Alldays and onions 200WT (this exhausts the drive piston to air, lowering the air and vaccuum pressure) to vary the ram lift at a given height and can hot cut 10lb billets of damascus material to leave a 1 to 2mm flap for folding (as gentle as a lamb) and at the pull of the leaver turn the machine into a monster. I have used similar sized Nazel to do forge welding of multy bar billets that were stacks 1mm wide by 60mm high, I would not be able to pull that off on a similar sized mechanical hammer. My two main hammers are sahinla and I do almost all my smaller and finish work on them. If I were to give advice it would be to get a power hammer and get to know it. They are all amazing tools especialy when you know them well. If I could only have one hammer it would definatly be an air hammer,
  13. A decent belt grinder would be top of my list, its the mainstay of knife making (even if you forge the blades). They are very versitile and come in handy for all sorts of work.
  14. I run a 1" burner forge capable of getting 15kg billets of damascus to welding heat, I am always bemused as to why so many people seem to go overkill with multiple burners etc. simple is often best.
  15. Sanderson Iron, thanks for posting about that lovely hammer. I will dig up some pictures of the brakes on my Goliaths.