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About jason0012

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  1. V dies are problematic on small hammers like a 25-50 pound little giant because of the die size and stroke of these machines. They can be made to work, it is just really inconvenient. As for the original question, a small power hammer is pretty versatile and can do a wide variety of stuff. A press is good for bigger stock, and that is assuming you arent looking at a big power hammer. Over 200 pounds and the hammer kind of catches up to the press, but that is a pretty big machine for a hobby level shop.
  2. Look up kentucky forge council. They meet in bowling green- not too far from you. If you are on a tight budget, try a grizzly grinder (2x72). It is one of the best deals on grinders ( not the best grinder , but a good start). A power hammer is a pretty big leap from hand forging, and no small investment in space, time and money. Get comfortable forging by hand, then add power tools. You will get a better idea what you need that way I would agree. It is pretty easy to spend $1000+ on belts.
  3. I wish I had scrounged a conveyor drive from the cookie plant. They were usually toast when they got replaced though. I was thinking 1/2-3/4 hp at around 60-80 rpm at the drum. I have a few 1/4 hp, then jump up to 1.5 and bigger and that seems a tad more torque than needed.
  4. I have wire brushed my work for years, and I do absolutely HATE wire wheeling viney twisty stuff ( and that is the bulk of my forge work) I briefly tried pickling, but dont like the chemicals involved and had rust issues when things weren't neutralized properly. I would love to have a shot blast machine, but the cost and space arent really practical, so I am looking at a tumbler. I have this old condemned 100 pound propane cylinder, that looks like a good start, and the remains of my old crane, a whole lot of pillow block bearings, but all my motors seem a tad large. I have a 1.5 hp that would be ok I guess, the other candidate is a 1/2 hp that is a 3600 rpm. I dont really want to have to slow things down that much. Has anybody here built one of these? What kind of speed/hp would you recommend?
  5. Oh, if anyone else is baffled by 12 inch duct- Maynards has it. At the moment on sale for $94 for 5-5 ft sections
  6. jason0012

    Gas supply

    In my new shop there is a crazy air manifold that goes everywhere. I have two air fittings every 4 feet through the whole building. For some reason the guy I bought the place from, removed the foot or so that connects to the air compressor ( but not the two compressors???) I do not have any air tools and so getting air up and running is pretty low priority. What I do need is propane supply to the three forges in my forging area. My propane supply line ends 15 feet from the forging area. My idea was to disconnect the air manifold on this side of the building and tie it in to the propane. The air line is 3/4inch black pipe 38 inches above the floor. I am unfamiliar with code on such things and was hoping someone here might know if this is legal. An issue is that my flue will pass just inches above this pipe ( for the coal forge). My easy solution would be to drop the pipe to the floor, but it occurred to me that it may be preferred to run outside the wall.
  7. Did it load? My browser just shows a black screen with a spinning arrow like it didnt load.
  8. Had some of the local smiths over last night and Steve King drew a few pieces of two inch stock for some nails to be headed at a public demo. The 250 made really quick work of it. 20190731_192744.mp4
  9. I learned something new about the clutch on my hammer today. First heat of the day had me in a panic that the hammer just would not run. Clutch was tuning and trying, but failing to catch the hammer. I had oiled the hell out of it like I always thought you supposed too. It turns out, these oddball lined clutches dont like oil. After cleaning it off it is back to running. Not a good start to the day though
  10. jason0012

    Re bar??

    I am in the process of upping my shops tong collection, which has dwindled the last few years. I use spring steel for tongs, but getting frustrated with recycling for them recently looked up new stock from Alro. To be fair, I have never bought 3/4 inch round 4140 new before but the price I was quoted was about 10 times what I expected. I mentioned this to another Smith, who suggested re bar. Now I had an initial unpleasant response to this suggestion which long story short resulted in me at home with a formidable peice of rebar in the forge. I did a hardness test and found that it was rendered glass hard in a water quench. What really baffles me is the papers all have it listed as a pretty crappy steel. .30% carbon is its max, but I get heat treat results like 5160???? What is up with this? An oddball run of concrete bar or am I missing something?
  11. My 250 moved twice standing up. It was the choice of pros moving it to do so. Now, I only hauled it around 22 miles, but that should not be an issue with stability. Beware, mine scaled over 7000 and I dont think that is uncommon. Best of luck with the move, awsome machine, you will enjoy it.
  12. If it is just for the beaudry, and you dont have a motor, just find a single phase 10 hp. A 1p should be ok. My experience with converters has been mixed. I built three in my shop with no problems or complaints. At work, we use a mix of static converters ( will make you wish you had shelled out for a single phase motor) and vfd drives. Vfds cost about the same as a magnetic starter and probably the most reliable off the shelf solution. An air hammer like a beche or nazel has a full load at starting which seems to cause issues with some converters. I always sized my rotary converters 1 to 1 to the driven motor without issue. The one in the picture is a 7.5 hp I put together for the 250.
  13. In the future I can see replacing the door with an old fire screen that has been hanging around for far too long. I like the idea of hinging in the middle. The gaurd has to be opened to lube the hammer so I do get up close with it a couple times a day- at its age the spring isn't the only part I am watching for failure. I have seen far more failures in little giant arms than springs. Of the dozen or so spring incidents I have witnessed probably 2/3 left the spring intact. I was 30 feet away from a 100 pound that threw its spring once. I think it hit three walls and the ceiling before it came to rest. The scale of these parts leaves me preferring to have them in a cage. Most of my break parts are ready, I will likely try to get them together next week. I am getting more comfortable with this hammer. Forging some h-13 this morning and really appreciating that extra push it has.
  14. A hammer that small shouldn't be much of an issue. Go wide rather than deep. One foot deep by four feet square ought to be more than enough. If you have a concrete floor a wood pad and anchors into the floor would be enough. A wooden pad would likely be adequate. Those little hammers usually need the foundation to get them to a good working height rather than to absorb impact. A 16 kg is pretty small and air hammers dont wobble and bounce as much as mechanical hammers.
  15. Finally got a front on the hammers gaurd. I still have some work to do on the break and need a latch on the gaurd door, but feel much better with the arms and spring covered( even if they are fun to watch)