jason0012

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About jason0012

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  1. jason0012

    Re bar??

    I am in the process of upping my shops tong collection, which has dwindled the last few years. I use spring steel for tongs, but getting frustrated with recycling for them recently looked up new stock from Alro. To be fair, I have never bought 3/4 inch round 4140 new before but the price I was quoted was about 10 times what I expected. I mentioned this to another Smith, who suggested re bar. Now I had an initial unpleasant response to this suggestion which long story short resulted in me at home with a formidable peice of rebar in the forge. I did a hardness test and found that it was rendered glass hard in a water quench. What really baffles me is the papers all have it listed as a pretty crappy steel. .30% carbon is its max, but I get heat treat results like 5160???? What is up with this? An oddball run of concrete bar or am I missing something?
  2. My 250 moved twice standing up. It was the choice of pros moving it to do so. Now, I only hauled it around 22 miles, but that should not be an issue with stability. Beware, mine scaled over 7000 and I dont think that is uncommon. Best of luck with the move, awsome machine, you will enjoy it.
  3. If it is just for the beaudry, and you dont have a motor, just find a single phase 10 hp. A 1p should be ok. My experience with converters has been mixed. I built three in my shop with no problems or complaints. At work, we use a mix of static converters ( will make you wish you had shelled out for a single phase motor) and vfd drives. Vfds cost about the same as a magnetic starter and probably the most reliable off the shelf solution. An air hammer like a beche or nazel has a full load at starting which seems to cause issues with some converters. I always sized my rotary converters 1 to 1 to the driven motor without issue. The one in the picture is a 7.5 hp I put together for the 250.
  4. In the future I can see replacing the door with an old fire screen that has been hanging around for far too long. I like the idea of hinging in the middle. The gaurd has to be opened to lube the hammer so I do get up close with it a couple times a day- at its age the spring isn't the only part I am watching for failure. I have seen far more failures in little giant arms than springs. Of the dozen or so spring incidents I have witnessed probably 2/3 left the spring intact. I was 30 feet away from a 100 pound that threw its spring once. I think it hit three walls and the ceiling before it came to rest. The scale of these parts leaves me preferring to have them in a cage. Most of my break parts are ready, I will likely try to get them together next week. I am getting more comfortable with this hammer. Forging some h-13 this morning and really appreciating that extra push it has.
  5. A hammer that small shouldn't be much of an issue. Go wide rather than deep. One foot deep by four feet square ought to be more than enough. If you have a concrete floor a wood pad and anchors into the floor would be enough. A wooden pad would likely be adequate. Those little hammers usually need the foundation to get them to a good working height rather than to absorb impact. A 16 kg is pretty small and air hammers dont wobble and bounce as much as mechanical hammers.
  6. Finally got a front on the hammers gaurd. I still have some work to do on the break and need a latch on the gaurd door, but feel much better with the arms and spring covered( even if they are fun to watch)
  7. I had the Indiana blacksmiths over Saturday, and was talked into doing some forging on the 250. Low end control is not the best and it is a tad hairy when things get down to 3/8-5/16. I am getting more comfortable with it though rounding is still awful slow. I came out with about 7 pairs of tong blanks. It does eat up that 3/4 round.
  8. My grandfather was an insurance agent. I pestered him for years about getting insurance, but he was tremendously evasive, and gave the impression that I was un insurable.
  9. I have been considering offering some classes at my shop. I am concerned about the potential issues that could arise from inviting the untrained public into a place as hazardous as a blacksmith shop. So for those of you that teach, what sort of insurance do you carry to cover the unforeseen? Am I just being paranoid?
  10. Clifton's break seemed overly complicated to me, until I started looking for ponts to attach a spring. It makes sense now. I got the posts on the hammer today. Just a bit of assembly to go.
  11. Probably meant to be feet, tabs, or shims under feet. ASTM codes are a pia but it looks pretty near 4130 from what I see. All the sites I found on Google want like $80 for a composition break down and I am not that curious. I could go look it up, but I am in for the night and dont feel like hiking back to the shop to look it up. If you dont have a composition by morning I will find it for you. Alloy aside, it really shouldn't matter. For an anvil you just need the mass. I would put them together with some big dowel pins then drill and tap the sides for threaded clamps and not bother with welding. That or use them as is for anvils and fond something else for a power hammer
  12. As for making axes, the bigger hammer will have more stroke/daylight. That is precisely what is needed for operations like punching and drifting eyes.
  13. I made a new knuckle, and replaced the t bolt. I still need to do the other side but the old one was kind of iffy. It was a 1 1/2 inch wrought iron bolt, cleft welded to a 1 1/4 steel pin. The pin was worn quite badly. The new arm would not seat correctly in the ram. I found a ridge of nearly 1/4 inch raised in the seat holding the arm out. After some grinding it is where it should be and looking better...
  14. I collected parts for my treadle hammer for 5-6 years, then built it in a day. I realized after the fact that I had really over thought the whole thing a lot.