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About jason0012

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  1. Here is a bradley die arrangement. Little Giant is a different dovetail. My top die dovetail is about a half inch wider than the factory. The ends sticking out are the skinny end, the flush are the fat end. Both keys have equal tapers. The dies are cut parallel. You will have to fit them, regardless of the source. The top/ bottom edges need proper contact as well as the taper faces. There is a possibility that you could find factory keys from Cortland Machine. I think Cortland sold the bradley parts and drawings a while back and don't have a number off hand. When they were making hammer parts
  2. Even a soft key can crack the dovetail. You will gain a smidge of crush value with a soft key, but it is pretty minimal. Any deformation of the key in the slot tends to lock it in place immovably. I have seen wavy keys used in hammers that would not behave, they are impossible to remove without destroying the key and/ or the die. A really good solution in my case would be to mill 3/8" off the dovetail and make thicker keys, and some day I might. I made these dies just guessing what size the dovetails should be. After finding a factory set I see how wrong I got the top dovetail. Factory is almo
  3. Er-32 collets. Cat 40 tools fit the nmtb 40 spindle, which is convenient since cnc machines are pretty common now. There are lots of surplus tool holders on the market. I had to fabricate a drawbar as this machine uses an oddball arbor with 7/16 rather than 5/8 threads. They were originally sold with one of each.
  4. I recently came across this funky horizontal mill. Yet another project. I did buy a collet set for it, but have yet to put power to the little guy. It is a " hand miller" in that the x axis is controlled through a rack gear rather than a screw. I have never used one of these and may just convert to screw feed (there are instructions in the manual and on several user groups online) no real question on it though if anyone has experience with one I would be curious to hear thoughts on the rack feed vs screw feed.
  5. It looks stout as anything. Probably a nmtb taper which is a pain, honestly anything other than r-8 is a pain. That is not reason enough to pass on a machine, oddball tapers can be located, it just causes some aggravation. Three phase is actually pretty easy to work around. More than likely it will have wear in the ways and screws but since it is going into home use it would have to be really bad to be a deal killer. It looks like a good starter mill. I am curious what it is- that photo is pretty rough.
  6. Is that the green one that was floating around auctions a while back?
  7. I have that issue with my top die. I need to thin the dovetail, but have managed for more than 20 years with skinny keys. Use spring steel, heat treat the keys and use a close fitting drift to push them. Keep them reasonably close the length of your dies. Soft keys are evil and the cause of every die I have ever oxygen laced out of a sow block. At this point in my life I dont expect to live long enough to waste my time trying to dig a riveted die out of a hammer ever again. Here is a better veiw. My top die keys are about 3/16" at the thick end. The right key is the thick end. The thin en
  8. A hammer just popped up for sale and my wife says I need it. I will probably have to sell some stuff, but how many hammers is apropriate??? I have two running hammers at the moment, and I have two huge foundations available....
  9. Okay, this is not directly a grinder question so it might belong somewhere else, but under grinders was my best guess. Belt grinders chew up a LOT of steel and generate a lot of dust. I would like to minimize the airborne dust as well as the piles on the floor, tables, shelves, ect. I like the booths that I see some folks using- putting the grinders in their own room. To some degree grinding dust, from angle grinders, will just be something that must be tolerated, but a dust collection system would surely help. My current shop has a sort of dust collector, but it is equipped with cloth bags an
  10. I recall him saying he was using O2, but I have had others who worked with Billy as well disagree. It was quite a long time ago and I dont recall the 5th material. They all hardened, and all etched different. Billy was always up to throwing something odd into a billet to see what it would do.
  11. The first photo i found on my phone. I dont have many, but part of Billy's display table.
  12. I wish I had thought to take notes while he was around. I recall this much, 5160, 1095, 52100, and 15n20 were in the mix. The high chromium in 52100 made it touchy.
  13. Find someone with a 100 pound little giant and get measurements. Scale accordingly
  14. I got some factory info on this guy. It is serial no S 208, sold July 3 1920. I am missing the name plate that would have the number, but how many first generation 250 pound little giants could there be in Columbus indiana?
  15. On old hammers with dovetails perpendicular to the frame, later solutions to the key issues were to cut straight dovetails and use a key either side of the die, with opposing tapers. One key locks the die, the other releases it. I dont think this was used on fairbanks hammers, but I don't see why it could not be made to work. This is used in bradley hammers. The long key in this photo is skinney end out and will release the die. The opposite key is fat end out and driven in until the die is tight. Oh and yes I should trim this key...
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