Jump to content
I Forge Iron

jason0012

Members
  • Posts

    402
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    kentucky

Recent Profile Visitors

8,075 profile views
  1. I have wondered what was the factory color on Bradley’s? Were they originally green? Mine had the vestiges of by black over. A stubborn red lead primer, but it was an 1897 model and colors might have changed.
  2. My spring is ok but I would like to have a fresh one in the hammer. Does anyone know where Clifton got his oversized springs made? I will probably make different arms for it. If nothing else I can get one from little giant…
  3. My notes from paleys shop have the twisting machine at 15 hp. Sadly I did not get good pictures or drawings. He had so many wonderful toys…
  4. I used 5/8 B-7 grade all thread for my 100 pound hammer. Cut 18” long I get two out of each stick of all thread (bought from Mc master carr) This is epoxied into 3/4 inch holes in the concrete. For my 250 I used 3/4”. The B-7 grade is equivilent to grade 8 bolts. I don’t know if ordinary all thread would be a problem, but the added cost of B-7 is pretty minimal compared to the aggravation of digging a broken bolt out.
  5. Good hammers but rarely up for sale. Look at what is on line for sale for and then add a bit. Tom Trozak built some of the best utility hammers made in recent years. It is really a shame that things did not work out for him getting them into larger production.
  6. I like the cut out in the front plate. This green hammer looks to have suffered far less abuse than mine.
  7. I had a 25#little giant quite a few years ago. I had 2x3” flat does that seemed a tad small, and 1 1/4”x4” crowned dies that were more effective when drawing out. A hammer that size has pretty limited power so a big die can rob some forging force, but small dies make using tools difficult. My 100# has 3x8” combo does and the 250 has 4 1/2”x9” dies. Bigger is better as it gives you more space, but has to fit the hammer. For a 30#, a 2 inch 3-4” would be my first try. If it seems small go up to a 2 1/2x4 or so- if you have room. If you want to draw faster make some skinny dies that are 1” or3/4” wide with a generous radius. Sometimes you have to pull a few tricks to get what you need out of a small hammer
  8. I think an E was a 150 pound, but can't guarantee that is correct
  9. I dont know if it helps any, but this little blade was a piece of Billy's steel he left at my shop.
  10. Here is a bradley die arrangement. Little Giant is a different dovetail. My top die dovetail is about a half inch wider than the factory. The ends sticking out are the skinny end, the flush are the fat end. Both keys have equal tapers. The dies are cut parallel. You will have to fit them, regardless of the source. The top/ bottom edges need proper contact as well as the taper faces. There is a possibility that you could find factory keys from Cortland Machine. I think Cortland sold the bradley parts and drawings a while back and don't have a number off hand. When they were making hammer parts they were not particularly helpfull.
  11. Even a soft key can crack the dovetail. You will gain a smidge of crush value with a soft key, but it is pretty minimal. Any deformation of the key in the slot tends to lock it in place immovably. I have seen wavy keys used in hammers that would not behave, they are impossible to remove without destroying the key and/ or the die. A really good solution in my case would be to mill 3/8" off the dovetail and make thicker keys, and some day I might. I made these dies just guessing what size the dovetails should be. After finding a factory set I see how wrong I got the top dovetail. Factory is almost a half inch narrower
  12. Er-32 collets. Cat 40 tools fit the nmtb 40 spindle, which is convenient since cnc machines are pretty common now. There are lots of surplus tool holders on the market. I had to fabricate a drawbar as this machine uses an oddball arbor with 7/16 rather than 5/8 threads. They were originally sold with one of each.
  13. I recently came across this funky horizontal mill. Yet another project. I did buy a collet set for it, but have yet to put power to the little guy. It is a " hand miller" in that the x axis is controlled through a rack gear rather than a screw. I have never used one of these and may just convert to screw feed (there are instructions in the manual and on several user groups online) no real question on it though if anyone has experience with one I would be curious to hear thoughts on the rack feed vs screw feed.
  14. It looks stout as anything. Probably a nmtb taper which is a pain, honestly anything other than r-8 is a pain. That is not reason enough to pass on a machine, oddball tapers can be located, it just causes some aggravation. Three phase is actually pretty easy to work around. More than likely it will have wear in the ways and screws but since it is going into home use it would have to be really bad to be a deal killer. It looks like a good starter mill. I am curious what it is- that photo is pretty rough.
  15. Is that the green one that was floating around auctions a while back?
×
×
  • Create New...