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jason0012

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About jason0012

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  1. My driving pulley is just a hair under 12 inches. The driven pulley (on the hammer) is 14". It would be ideal for the driving pulley to be bigger than the driven. This helps keep the belt moving, rather than hanging stationary on a moving pulley. When i tried the direct drive I went through a few pulleys from 3 1/2- 5 inch diameter. None worked for long without eating up belts. Sadley, flat pulleys are not terribly easy to find so the one i am using was a compromise.
  2. Does anyone here know who clifton got to make his custom oversized springs? I swear I used to have contact info but just can't find it.
  3. I have really good control at low speeds and fair single blow control now. It does have a tendency to collect oil on the flywheel which makes the break slip, but i likely need to replace the wood block.there are two points of adjustment. The split sleeve is the one that gets moved outside of special circumstances. It is a smooth (more or less, it is 120 yrs old) shift held in a split sleeve, the big lever is part of the clamp screw that catches it. On top of this, the eccentric is adjustable. You can see two nuts in this picture. This hammer is adjustable from 0-5 inches stroke. It runs best a
  4. A bradley is an awsome hammer. Mine is a 75/100 pound upright helve Franken hammer- ( assembled from the parts of several machines at whatever factory it used to belong to) Space between the dies is the limitation of these hammers. Adjusting on the fly is not too hard, but gets annoying. I have punched hammer heads on this hammer and worked down stock as big as 5 inch round. I can hit a piece 8 inches tall but it is at its limit. The normal slap of this hammer is 4-4.5 inch, with 1.5 inch opening i can easily hit a piece 5 inches tall then die to die on the next stroke which I think is probabl
  5. The heat on the factory system is a result of the belt stopping on the small pulley. When it sits stationary, it gets hot. By switching to a larger drive pulley the belt remains in motion with more contact on the driving pulley. You may have the wrong composition of belt. These systems are tough on belts in a way that static pulleys won't be. I run what the farm supply calls "bailer belt", or "tobacco belt", which is a canvas/rubber belt, spliced with alligator lacing. A friend of mine runs a quite large Beaudry on a canvass belt. All of these were meant to run on leather belting, which was al
  6. Adhesive? You gooped up your belt? Clean everything. Both pulleys, idler and belt. Try acetone or denatured alchol. If that fails make up a new belt. In my experience it all works best when a clean belt is running on clean pulleys. Belts will heat, it happens, but should not be enough to be an issue. I never got my bradley to run right on the factory set up with the teeny motor pulley directly on the motor. Switching to a jackstand made a world of difference. Slack belt systems work best when the driving pulley is near the same size or bigger than the driven pulley.
  7. no, and no idea who they might be- that is why I asked.
  8. Getting proportions right is giving me a hard time, the cardboard template has helped. There just is not enough material in the 1/2 inch. I may try square stock next.
  9. I have found the article from anvil magazine on Bob Patrick, and can post it. Would that violate any rules?
  10. One of my earliest blades had a red cedar handle. It is currently in use as a patch knife and has held up ok. I was 13(?) When I made that knife so it has seen 32 years of use or thereabouts. The blade has more issues i am embarrassed about than the handle. It is just bare cedar, but has a fair application of skin oils, sweat, and dirt
  11. I have a 13 inch craftsman atlas that was given to me by a neighbor over 20 years ago. It is a nice lathe with lots of tooling, but in the new shop I really was ready for bigger. Back in March I got a call out of the blue from a neighbor about a barn find lathe, would I be interested, 20200729_122013.mp4 20200729_122013.mp4 he needed the space. So I now have this cool Lodge and Davis 18 inch swing monster. Now to make some new tooling....
  12. Bob was the Smith i have seen do this without a mandrel. My process, power hammer or hand, is as follows. Coil your skelp of 3/8×3/4 or so around a 1 inch or so mandrel. Coil the whole thing. Taper the ends so they lie nice and square. Starting at one end, weld first with an end bump and then across the face in a bottom swage or v block. I use the v block a lot. Rotate as you hammer in the direction of the coil. (So it twist tighter as you turn) by the time a 1 inch id coil is reduced to solid seams, it will be reduced enough to clean up to a .40-50 cal. Bob was quite specific, if you can sti
  13. I recently saw a post about a process for forging a hammer from round stock. This is the easiest I have yet found. The original post was on Facebook from a European smith. He was using 12mm material. I started with 5/8. My first attempt was just too big. The next two were in 1/2". My recent attempts in 5/8 have worked out quite nicely. Square might be easier. I found that having a template to work to, at the anvil, helps a lot.
  14. That is an ok price. In my opinion little giants are getting a bit out of hand on price. I would think $4-5000 for a 100 would be more reasonable. It looks like it is in good shape and is a good production hammer. You wont regret having it and it should be able to earn back 6500 pretty quick.
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