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I Forge Iron


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About jason0012

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  1. If you are more geared twords fabricating work anyway, have the scrolls plasma cut from plate and weld up with flat bar to build a tube in the scroll shape. You likely are already equipped for this.
  2. I have tried renting shop space a few times. Moving a blacksmith shop is an awful and traumatic endeavor. Unless you expect to move shortly it would be advisable to buy rather than rent. I rented a large farm shop for a few months, and only got half moved in when the owner started changing locks on me. I tried to rent several times from artist co-ops, and after four of them strongly sugest you not even consider them. Of three of them who declined my lease based on fire hazards, one burned to the ground, and two have blacksmiths working there now. One doubled the rent every time I spoke to them
  3. Picked up the jack today. I got sidetracked on assembly but it needs to come together tomorrow as real work is looming. I dont expect much from it, but do hope it will be up to punching holes.
  4. Rotary converters are super easy to build, and if its wired right can give true 3 phase which means full power. That doesn't help much though if you just don't have enough power though. If it means you can get it runing although having to run to the neighbors I think I would be inclined to do so just because part time access to tools is more productive than no access. I have loaned out loads of tools over the years and sometimes things go wrong and I regret it, lose tools and materials ect. For every time things did not work out, there were the times it saved someone's butt, or worked out well
  5. There is good reason I avoided them. I never felt it was even possible to get a decent edge on such a blade. I was thinking of the scalloped sort of edge some chefs knives are inflicted with. Like it or not I actually have one and it baffles me how one would touch up the edge on such a knife, not that it is really important.
  6. In a recent conversation I was asked about serrated edges. I own only one knife with serrations, a Shun bread knife. I generally try to steer clear of them since I have no great idea how to set up/sharpen such an edge. Does anyone here have good tricks for a serrated edge? My only idea is to do a profile dressing to a hard wheel, and honing I am just at a loss. I will admit, I have not experimented with this.
  7. Here are a pair of tracing from when I worked in a shop that flamecut arms fro 1 inch for a 25, and 1 1/4 for a 50. For the clevis, we would weld tabs of 2x5/8 with pin holes to the end. Pin to pin should be 14" i think for a 50. These were the easiest arms i have ever fabricated.
  8. Welding is for tomorrow. I ran the saw for 10+ hours today. I figure if the jack is garbage, this can be adapted to a 2-3"×8 cylinder and run off electric.
  9. I have a good start on collecting parts for a Batson press, but the big build projects for this year are all either finished or pushed back to January. The idea hit me recently, after moving my bearing press out of my work area. I am looking at putting a frame together for a 12 ton jack. If I cant make it work for forging perhaps I can build shear dies for it and use it to cut stock... I got side tracked today cutting material for such a press
  10. I am curious why you need 90 tons. A 12-16 ton press will move a lot of steel. Log splitters really are the budget way to go. 18-24 tons in a pre-built system for under $1000 is a pretty good start, and enough power to work some decently large stuff.
  11. You might look into a rolling mill. Google "Hughe McDonald rolling mill", he was an austrailian fellow who designed and published plans for a roll forging machine specifically for damascus. Briefly Kayne and sons built and sold the machine but there was some sort of legal scuffle over it and the whole thing kind of fizzled.
  12. I am looking at upgrading my shop anvils. I currently have a peter wright and a vulcan. Both are fair anvils and have served well, but I have wanted a Nimba anvil since I first saw them. Then I stumbled on the Rat Hole anvil and now the Holland. I am looking at the 400# versions of whichever and am sore tempted to just get one of each, but they are a good chunk of $ so getting all three, at least at the same time is unlikely. I was saving for an upgrade when I bought my bigger power hammer. 2021 will be the anvil year hopefully. So anyone owning any of these or an anvil i don't know about have
  13. My driving pulley is just a hair under 12 inches. The driven pulley (on the hammer) is 14". It would be ideal for the driving pulley to be bigger than the driven. This helps keep the belt moving, rather than hanging stationary on a moving pulley. When i tried the direct drive I went through a few pulleys from 3 1/2- 5 inch diameter. None worked for long without eating up belts. Sadley, flat pulleys are not terribly easy to find so the one i am using was a compromise.
  14. Does anyone here know who clifton got to make his custom oversized springs? I swear I used to have contact info but just can't find it.
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