• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About jason0012

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

7,166 profile views
  1. Kerrihard. Ah the days when sears carried good stuff...
  2. Harbor freight has nippers for something like $12. Heavier and cheaper than farriers nippers, since I first saw them I thought they would make great intro level tongs.
  3. A very important textbook, full of good solutions...
  4. Back around 1987 I checked a book out from the local library. It was a really good book on blacksmithing, though I did not really know enough to understand it at the time. It described a forge, hood and chimney built from old water heater shells, with a really good description of fire management, evaluating scrap, and making blacksmith tools with a whole chapter on punching and drifting. I do not recall the author or title, and it was a rebound book so it was just a shiny grey binding. The author was from the southwest somewhere, and talked about learning from mexican smiths. He had a Spanish sounding name that I do not recall. It is not much to go on, but I would love to find a copy of it, or at least know what this book was...my library has no records from before 2012 ( I already checked)
  5. Here is the dumb move. Do not do this! I shudder to realise, in this picture my finger is against the sow... A tool like this is much safer
  6. I had a bit of a problem today and got a big gotcha from the 250. With power hammer tools you have to be aware of where your tools are and where the hammer is going to push them. Sometimes it is not what you expect. I was punching eyes in some hot cuts today and when edging a tool to knock the punch out, got my right index finger in between the tool handle and hammers anvil. I got a smear of grease and bruised finger, but that could have been much worse. Tool handles should have a decent amount of spring or give, be always aware of where your fingers are, and never put fingers through the loop! Stay safe everybody...
  7. I am thinking iron pipe outside, parallel to the low pressure, with a branch through the wall where the forges will be. It should T off the line before the low pressure, and inside the wall have a shut off and regulator for each branch, then the forge hoses will tie into the regulator on the inside. Am I missing anything?
  8. The latest with my hammer is an upgrade to the clutch. There is virtually no literature on the 250 so I am not sure how common it is, but the clutch tod runs inside the frame. It connects to the treadle by means of an arm on the underside of the frame. Adjusting clutch throw requires getting both arms inside the frame, with wrenches, from underneath. The parts are ancient and well worn and I hate to have turn a 7-9000 pound machine on its side for adjustment. So I added an external rod. The funny thing is, it looks mighty similar to a normal little giant clutch rod. A lot of its funky behavior settled down with this modification.
  9. I had a dozen items on ebay. Sold two today and funds were put on hold. Pending delivery? I am no longer on ebay as a result- and they were really not helpfull. Is there a better sales site?
  10. Trip hammers just got displaced by better technology, like 8 tracks or beta max. They work , and worked steadily for centuries, but a steam or mechanical hammer is more versatile. Just ad the modern preference for air hammers pushed mechanical hammers out. I always wanted to get to see some good info on them. I have hunted for, and come up short, into on commercially produced trip hammers. Pratt and Whitney built them at one time. That was probably pre civil war. I have seen a few (very few) photos of them
  11. I have always run my forges from bottled gas supplies through a propane rated hose. Now I am looking at permanent installation in my shop with a 1000 gallon tank outside. It is currently plumbed for the hvac only. I am going to need to run a branch line to run the forges, either copper or iron pipe from what I can tell code is indifferent. What I am a bit fuzzy on is the connection between the hard line and forge. Am I ok using the rubber hose, or is there something better? ( more legal) I se absolutely no mention of hose at all in the code aside from the metal flex hose used for residential appliances.
  12. I would pick the little giant. The blue is an air hog. A 5hp compressor may not be enough. Little giants did not originally have a break on the flywheel. Many of us have added them to gain control for tooling. A 50 pound lg is kind of small but will do a lot of work. It will run on a motor as small as a 1 1/2 hp, though bigger is better. My experience with utility hammers like the blue is that they run well if ( big IF) you can feed them an absolute crazy amount of air. They have awsome control- far beyond self contained hammers, but getting there costs a lot of input power. The ka75 is one I often forget about. I wouldn't mind having one myself come to think of it...
  13. I have been fighting to get some order in the new shop and the power hammer tools have been hard to keep track of. In the old shop I had about 200 nails driven into the wall that they hung from. Here that isn't an option. I have two shelves, two tables, an as yet unused coal forge, and various buckets and milk crates. It can be difficult to find what I am looking for when I need it. Picking up today I found about 30 hacks! I do have a habit of just making more, which doesnt help much with the clutter
  14. For anyone with a newer 250 than mine, how much vertical adjustment does your hammer have ? I am looking at putting a more modern style cross head on mine. It looks like there is plenty of clearance.
  15. 3 1/2 inch is pretty big to sledge out by hand. I guess it's possible (?) But that sounds like an awful lot of work. If you could locate someone with a press it would be well worth buming some time in someone else's shop. For stock that size my 250 pound could do it, but I dont like working that big under the 100. It is really kind of big for even the 250. A press works big stuff more effectively. The easiest approach might be to lathe down your taper and weld on a hardy shank