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About jason0012

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  1. I am thinking iron pipe outside, parallel to the low pressure, with a branch through the wall where the forges will be. It should T off the line before the low pressure, and inside the wall have a shut off and regulator for each branch, then the forge hoses will tie into the regulator on the inside. Am I missing anything?
  2. The latest with my hammer is an upgrade to the clutch. There is virtually no literature on the 250 so I am not sure how common it is, but the clutch tod runs inside the frame. It connects to the treadle by means of an arm on the underside of the frame. Adjusting clutch throw requires getting both arms inside the frame, with wrenches, from underneath. The parts are ancient and well worn and I hate to have turn a 7-9000 pound machine on its side for adjustment. So I added an external rod. The funny thing is, it looks mighty similar to a normal little giant clutch rod. A lot of its funky behavior settled down with this modification.
  3. I had a dozen items on ebay. Sold two today and funds were put on hold. Pending delivery? I am no longer on ebay as a result- and they were really not helpfull. Is there a better sales site?
  4. Trip hammers just got displaced by better technology, like 8 tracks or beta max. They work , and worked steadily for centuries, but a steam or mechanical hammer is more versatile. Just ad the modern preference for air hammers pushed mechanical hammers out. I always wanted to get to see some good info on them. I have hunted for, and come up short, into on commercially produced trip hammers. Pratt and Whitney built them at one time. That was probably pre civil war. I have seen a few (very few) photos of them
  5. I have always run my forges from bottled gas supplies through a propane rated hose. Now I am looking at permanent installation in my shop with a 1000 gallon tank outside. It is currently plumbed for the hvac only. I am going to need to run a branch line to run the forges, either copper or iron pipe from what I can tell code is indifferent. What I am a bit fuzzy on is the connection between the hard line and forge. Am I ok using the rubber hose, or is there something better? ( more legal) I se absolutely no mention of hose at all in the code aside from the metal flex hose used for residential appliances.
  6. I would pick the little giant. The blue is an air hog. A 5hp compressor may not be enough. Little giants did not originally have a break on the flywheel. Many of us have added them to gain control for tooling. A 50 pound lg is kind of small but will do a lot of work. It will run on a motor as small as a 1 1/2 hp, though bigger is better. My experience with utility hammers like the blue is that they run well if ( big IF) you can feed them an absolute crazy amount of air. They have awsome control- far beyond self contained hammers, but getting there costs a lot of input power. The ka75 is one I often forget about. I wouldn't mind having one myself come to think of it...
  7. I have been fighting to get some order in the new shop and the power hammer tools have been hard to keep track of. In the old shop I had about 200 nails driven into the wall that they hung from. Here that isn't an option. I have two shelves, two tables, an as yet unused coal forge, and various buckets and milk crates. It can be difficult to find what I am looking for when I need it. Picking up today I found about 30 hacks! I do have a habit of just making more, which doesnt help much with the clutter
  8. For anyone with a newer 250 than mine, how much vertical adjustment does your hammer have ? I am looking at putting a more modern style cross head on mine. It looks like there is plenty of clearance.
  9. 3 1/2 inch is pretty big to sledge out by hand. I guess it's possible (?) But that sounds like an awful lot of work. If you could locate someone with a press it would be well worth buming some time in someone else's shop. For stock that size my 250 pound could do it, but I dont like working that big under the 100. It is really kind of big for even the 250. A press works big stuff more effectively. The easiest approach might be to lathe down your taper and weld on a hardy shank
  10. I have wondered how much overlap there is here. NOMMA membership has been on my to do list for quite a while.
  11. My die block is in. 4x9x15 4140. Now to cut 5 inch blocks out of it
  12. I am tempted to add a cross head with vertical adjustment, just not sure if there is room. I would love to convert to a rear clutch, but a 3 1/4 shaft is pretty big. I would feel a lot better to have new Babbitt anyway.
  13. Odd, the video posted yesterday, now it looks like its gone. 20190404_100021.mp4
  14. This video is from the first time I powered the hammer. The clutch was locked up from many years of storage, but it gives a fair sense of the hammers operation. Video did not work
  15. It was the first year. They figured out that it needed the hight adjustment about 1921 I think. Sidd apologised for the lack of info on this one since there apparently are very few like it. That is one reason I have been trying to post as much as I can about it. It is an oddball. For example, it stalls completely if it gets grease or oil in the clutch cone. It wont move at all, I can stand on the treadle with both feet and the clutch just spins not moving anything. Clean it out and it runs fine. No telling what sort of material the lining is, i would assume leather or composition belting. It doesnt look any different from other little giant clutches.