Judson Yaggy

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About Judson Yaggy

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    Bristol, Vermont, USA


  • Location
    Bristol, Vermont, USA

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  1. Some shop time, but a lot more time on installs the last few weeks. Shop work was some polished stainless mounts for a custom shower rod and some handles. Then some pics of the spiral stair rail I showed parts of earlier. And some hinges, both real and "fake" for a high end hidden refrigerator I also built the timber trusses and hardware for this same kitchen last year.
  2. I'll be there. Bob is fun stuff and even thou I'm not a knife maker I always learn something from him. You coming up for it Dale? You (or any other travelers) are welcome to stop by my place for a visit before or after.
  3. 475# Soho Peter Wright is my guess. Good score!
  4. Steve is a great guy, always willing to teach, talk, trade tips. I was really bummed to hear bout this and I hope this very worthy go fund me campaign is a success. He does production work, selling mostly thru wholesale craft shows. Harder to do an efficient production run of product in coke. Doubly so if you are training an employee to do it.
  5. Goat milking stanchion? Not a lot of history of the Spanish Inquisition around Ithaca so my other guess is probably way off.
  6. Hi everyone, NEB has a new (and long overdue!) website. More photos, more listings of local events, and yes the power hammer info is still there! http://www.newenglandblacksmiths.org
  7. 100# industrial hammer is probably going to weigh north of 3,000#. And I agree with Marc's assessment of leaf vs coil springs.
  8. Thomas, the discussion is on treadle hammers not power hammers.
  9. Center number in English hundredweight marks are only 0,1,2,3. They wouldn't have used a 9. I've seen a few very old anvils over the years with side exit retrofitted pritchel, if the smith really needed one he added it in. Definitely not a French pattern.
  10. ID will be a crapshoot due to the age of the anvil, that's an older one. Figure 1800 +/- 30 years. Probably English make and in good shape for the age, prichel probably a later add on.
  11. Here is a good place to start. http://www.alaforge.org/files/Tire_Hammer_Tools.pdf
  12. Fisher vises went up to size #6, which was an 8" wide jaw. The #4 is a 6". They were cast iron with steel bits embedded in the jaws, much the same was as Fisher made anvils. The jaws on the OP's have a different profile than mine do, and along with the coloration that makes me think they have been repaired. Still worth getting, they are great vises!
  13. If you really want to drop cycle times, go with an induction forge/furnace. Tim, is this an actual production line and proposed changes and not just a school project? If so please let us know what the final product is so I can avoid driving one. Expecting those kinds of thru-put increases (and asking simplistic questions about same on a non-manufacturing forum) screams "short cut" to me.
  14. 1/8"r to 1/4"r for that size work.
  15. That is a sweet anvil and an even sweeter wife! I'm going to go against the above advise here and recommend putting a small radius on those sharp corners. It's not just wrought iron that hates sharp corners, steel hates a sharp corner too. A perfectly square inside corner will start a crack in steel. An inside corner with a small radius subjected to stress will crack sooner rather than later. A large radius will crack later rather than sooner. The sharper anvil edge will be more likely to peel off or smoosh a sliver of the work piece's shoulder, leading to a cold shut, which is a blacksmith's term for a mechanically caused inclusion and will lead to a stress riser, which will lead to a crack. All of the old blacksmithing text books and most of the new ones cover proper radii for anvils. This is also covered in chapter one of most modern high tech closed die forging texts. Every professional modern ornamental smith's anvil I've ever seen has a variety of radii on their anvils, and on power hammer dies, and on swages, fullers, power hammer tools, etc etc. Mildly rounded corners also help protect the anvil from chipping if (when) you miss a blow. They also give a clean, finished appearance to your work, not that chopped up look you get from repeatedly trying to set a shoulder on a sharp edge. You can read between the lines of the general guidelines and figure out what radius works for the size of work you do and the size of shoulder you put into you work pieces. As to one or both sides I find that in architectural metalwork there are a lot of double shoulders in the same piece so it is more efficient to have the same radius on both sides of the anvil. YMMV. Drop me a PM sometime for directions and come on down to my shop, I'll show you the radii I ground onto my also purchased new anvil.