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Judson Yaggy

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About Judson Yaggy

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    www.birdseyebuilding.com

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    Bristol, Vermont, USA

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  • Location
    Bristol, Vermont, USA

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  1. The raffle is live, you can buy tickets through the Abana site commercial link removed
  2. Hinge on the bottom after a design in the Hammer's Blow (ABANA publication). Rolled barrel. One piece forged corner pintles and forge welded barrels. Big barn door hinges, 4 foot long. Forge welded. The ring pull is also a latch, it rotates. Barn is new construction but traditional timber frame, all wooden joinery. Entry door hardware on a 1806 English style timber frame barn that I restored and rebuilt a few years ago. Forge welded faux hinges on a clad refrigerator door. The same functioning hinges were on all the other cabinetry so w
  3. I'm glad the contact worked out. Mark is one of the most knowledgeable air hammer guys in the world. Did he give you that great drawing or did you find it elsewhere?
  4. Definitely canceled. Big bummer, JLP and I were supposed to be some of the demonstrators and as much time as we put into our demos it pales when compared to the time and effort donated by the organizing committee. They will still be holding the large items raffle to help offset some of the losses from the cancelation. They are raffling a Big Blu power hammer, a BAM box full of forged tools from the best smiths in the country, and a large anvil.
  5. Careful measurements, by that I mean machine shop grade, will tell you the size of your dies and dovetails. Once you have good dimensions of both the male and female parts then you can see if other more modern dies will work. But once you have good numbers it might be just as easy to get a local machine shop to make new dies to your specifications. There are few if no Beche owners on this mostly American forum, and only a few Nazel owners. Nazels were originally designed by and the manufacturing licensed from Beche, and I don't know if Beche and Nazel dies were ever interchangeable, b
  6. It's just another arrow in the quiver. I use it especially on one off or limited run tooling. That saves me both material cost and time needed to produce the tool. As an architectural smith I often make a tool for one job and then never use it again, and making that tool involves welding and machining more often than not. Doing it in an easy to work steel saves a tremendous amount of time, and then superquench gives it a shot in the arm. Taking a mild steel tool from being able to survive a few heats to a few dozen is very valuable to me.
  7. Jet Dry or similar dishwasher finishers are acceptable substitutes for the Shaklee.
  8. Looked like 60? Some glare on the tube made it hard to tell. I assume the ball comes with the tube and is calibrated?
  9. Yup! I've tuned rubber on my lathe after freezing solid. Work fast.
  10. Up here near Canada I use ATF in the cold season and 30W non-detergent in the summer. You can probably skip the cold weather option! Whatever you use, use a lot. Mechanicals were intended to be drippy, it helps flush out any crud that gets in.
  11. We should probably move this to the power hammer section. The lowest of the linkage arms, the toggles that connect to the tup, should be close to horizontal at rest. Yours are out of spec. No hammer can ever get to truly horizontal but the closer the better. Upping the tension will pull those arms closer to ideal. If that doesn't do it, the rubber may be tired. I know I would be after almost 100 years! The rubber is the spring, if tightening doesn't change anything then the spring is worn out. There are threads here on IFI and other places about replacing rubber on Bradleys. A
  12. Old Crew, can you show us a picture of the linkages square from the front side of the hammer? I have a Kayne&Roach which has a very similar linkage, perhaps I could help out with spring tension if I could see the positions of the arms. Jennifer, you can adjust spring tension on these, the nuts on the outside of the rubbers can be cranked down to increase compression. I would make the drive belt nice and tight, no slip obviously. Then I would adjust slack belt tension so the hammer just barely cranks over with your foot off the treadle. Then tighten the brake band till tha
  13. I make a lot of tongs, both for sale and for prizes when I run the New England Blacksmiths forging competitions. It really does make a noticeable, functional difference to have tongs matched to your handedness. 95% of what I make are right handed, the remaining fall into the scrolling tongs or power hammer tongs categories as noted above. Power hammer tongs in particular get used in either or both hands at the same time. Once in a blue moon someone asks for leftie tongs and I actually find them more challenging to make well as my muscle memory is so used to cranking out righties!
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