Judson Yaggy

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Judson Yaggy

  • Rank
    Sarcastic Member (you can type anything in this box)

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Bristol, Vermont, USA


  • Location
    Bristol, Vermont, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

15,509 profile views
  1. Up the speed some and figure out how to get it to dwell with the tup up. A little slow for a 100# mechanichal. Probably an easy fix, swap out a pulley somewhere. Good job with the mass, nice to see nothing jumping around or the camera shaking on impact.
  2. Mass of the anvil matters greatly. Static load resistance to deflection, what h beams are engineered for, is different than resisting or returning the dynamic energy of an impact. Concrete and steel react differently to the really exciting live loads we have here and don't couple well in a forging hammer.
  3. Same is optimal, close is good enough. The closer you are the less wobble the whole thing will have. Many antique mechanicals had no provision for counterweight, they relied on over engineered adjacent parts or expected frequent replacements or just figured that if you bought a budget hammer you got what you paid for. If you can't figure out how to build in a counterweight, at least bolt the hammer down to a solid concrete slab.
  4. I disagree. I've spent the last 25 years alternating between timber framing and blacksmithing, and have never seen a historic or modern drill bit that looks like that. In addition, if you twisted that into a beam it would get stuck so hard you would never get it back.
  5. Swaping out both pulleys for A belts could be cheaper than mixing and matching vx pulleys and bushings. No need to keep original diameters as long as drive and driven diameters yeild your desired RPM (as long as they fit in the frame and guards and the motor can handle it). Some pulley bores and diameters are cheaper than others. YMMV, good luck John.
  6. My littlest hammer is a #1 that I rebuilt. What is it that you want to know?
  7. It does not show in POTP. Part of why I said it's rare. Closest spring and frame casting style shown there (but not a perfect match) is the Iron Store Giant, made in Minnesota. Front end looks pretty crisp, the pitman especially. Possibly could be "new" replacement parts, perhaps even the crank plate with another foundry's name. Hard to say for sure untill someone else posts pics of another one! If you are a full time pro you already know to stay on top of the oil and viscosity with local conditions. If you are a weekend warrior, any oil will likely be fine on any Iowa winter day you happen to feel like working. It doesn't often get cold enough there to worry. FYI there are some pics of an Iron Store on one of the facebook powerhammer groups right now. Different spring shape.
  8. That's a really rare hammer! Blacker anvils less so but still somewhat uncommon, I've seen perhaps 6 in the last 25 years. But that hammer is unique. Mechanical power hammer lube is generally a personal preference thing as long as you lube it every time you use it. 30w non-detergent, way oil, bar and chain oil, ATF, whatever as long as you use a good bit on every point every time you fire it up. That includes on the slides/ram guides. Optimal guard on a mechanical is a heavy wire mesh or expanded metal surround of all the moving parts, and a flexible heavy duty containment on the springs themselves, think fire hose or big truck radiator hose cut to length and slipped over the springs. The mesh lets you poke the buisness end of an oiler thru the guard to reach the lube points. Sometimes you see a sheet metal guard that's hinged and latched so it can be opened to lube. That's optimal, lots of folks "get away" with less.
  9. Highly variable. Depends a huge amount on the weather, and to a lesser extent the health, size and location of the tree, and if you are running a vacuum pump. Really rough average is 15 galons of sap per tap, then it takes between 35 and 45 gallons of sap to boil down to 1 galon of syrup, depending on the sugar content of the sap. But it's worth it!
  10. You bought Justin's anvil! Best buy there. Enjoy!
  11. Look into Fabrika isolation pads. Extreme price warning here in case you have a delicate heart.
  12. Run of pick up tongs. 2 heats per to get to this point, 2 more heats required to finish. Starting stock 5" of 5/8" round, power hammer required. Some of these will be forging competition prizes at the New England Blacksmiths' meet next weekend. Be there or be a rectangular thing!
  13. I must respectfully disagree with the consensus. At my steel yard hot rolled (hr) is A36. Cold rolled (cr) is still 1018, or so they claim. Slightly different chemistry, and cr forges somewhat more easily. I'm not far from the border with Canada and most of our steel is still imported from there despite the tarrifs so this may be a regional thing. It will also forgeweld easier becasuse of the cleanliness of the surface (no mill scale). A pile of hr widgets stacked up in the gas forge for texturing stay seperate pieces, while the same widgets of cr will start sticking to each other after a while, unintentional forge welds. Intentional forge welds may be acomplished at lower temps with cr as long as it's the material's first pass thru the forge. May be splitting hairs here, I buy hr whenever possible due to the lower price as noted above. But some sections, especialy sheet, plate, and small bar are more common in cr, and it welds very well. Just my observations from forging every day. Kozzy, descaled hot rolled available commercially would be great! Please keep us in the loop!
  14. With a repair, less than $200. I own 2 #4s, in very good and near mint condition, and I paid $200 and $300 respectively. That said, I've seen them sell at big conferences for between $1k and $2k. There is a #5 that hasn't sold for over a year on Ebay for something like $2500. So there is your bracket!