Judson Yaggy

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About Judson Yaggy

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    Bristol, Vermont, USA


  • Location
    Bristol, Vermont, USA

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  1. If Alan gets banned I'm walking away from IFI. He is a gem, and his comments have been calm and analytical, in the interest of discussion rather than accusation. I make a fair amount of my income as a jobber metalworker, and the balance as a timber framer/carpenter/project manager for a high end construction company. So I guess you could say I have a foot in both worlds. My response to the hypothetical client in Mr. Newman's op would be to say that the hangers as drawn are a fabrication job, no advanced skill or artistry involved. Perhaps they could be made more economically by a welding shop. I don't own a press with air dies so that first tight bend with the rest of the piece tight behind it would be a PITA. So no thank you. But... to that same client I would pitch the folowing. If you want them to be something your neighbors will envy, or a one-of-a-kind artistic piece, then you have come to the right place. I have unique skills and dedicated machinery, so my design and shop rates start at somewhat more than your auto mechanic's hourly rate but you will get a great widget... This gets the problematic tire kickers out the door fairly quickly but plants the seed in the mind of the client that might actually want something cool (and has the $$ to back up the want). They might be back. A short time talking to a potential client is not wasted time. If it's stressful something else has already gone wrong. Alan, I've met a fair number of subcontractors over the years that have made me wonder how they deserve their hourly rate. My conclusion is that it's a mixture of liability insurance costs, client ignorance, designer/architect hype, and lack of viable competition. The ones that DO deserve their hourly rate are often (but not always) electricians, higher end plumbers, crane operators, and structural weldors. If these particular trades mess up, bad things happen and the job doesn't get done. For better or worse liability, code enforcement and the education needed to meet it drive costs to a minimum level. I'm sure you know all this, but I'm typing for the genaral readership. Steve, how many hours of schooling per year in the 4 year periods you mention? I'm honestly curious, don't thnk I've ever heard how many hours it takes to get Journeyman or Master Electrician. There are 2000 working hours (before overtime) in a standard work year IIRC? A good electrician is well worth the cost in my experiance, it would be interesting to know what the payback time for following that path is. I like that! Seems low thou... (grin)
  2. Yup. 450# South German. I've owned and or worked professionally on 10 or so London patterns over the years, and bought and sold a score more, and 5 years ago bit the bullet and purchased a Fontanini. I will never go back, it's a joy to forge on and the tapering heel is especially handy.
  3. Shame about this story. I've seen some really sweet anvils that have come out of Germany the same way. Buyer beware.
  4. It's in very good shape (not mint but pretty darn good), nice size, collectable name. That was a fair price.
  5. If you have the time, budget and skill, forging what you describe would be an interesting exercise. But there are many reasons commercially available truss plates are cut out of plate or fabricated from flat bar. If you do go down that road keep your inside corners nice and rounded and check your liability insurance.
  6. The ones that matter are from Vermont (grin). Since we are on the subject of geography, did you know that if Vermont was flattened out it would be bigger than Texas? But seriously, if anyone thinks your area has been neglected, host a meet. We have seed money available, and well tested logistic procedures for the asking, and a great support network. I've never counted but I assume the membership roughly follows the population density of the various states.
  7. I'm going to weigh my answer carefully. Geographic center https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunbarton,_New_Hampshire Not too far from our teaching center/frequent meet location in Brentwood, NH. People forget how big Maine is sometimes. And I'm going fishing here, our meets are run by volunteers so if you want to have a meet near your home town, speak up and run one. It's not hard, and very rewarding. We try and move them around New England so no one feels left out, but if no one wants to host a meet then back to Brentwood we go to our semi-permanent location.
  8. Please excuse me if this answer is off base, but in your few posts you come across as a beginner. JHMs are pretty good but not great anvils. My good friend/neighbor and full time farrier has one that I have played around on. Rather than obsessing over rebound, buy one and get to work. Or buy something else and get to work. Whatever it is it will serve you just fine, especially as a beginner. Rebound percentage on anything that is more than crappy cast iron is a marginal measure of quality until you have spent 2 to 3 THOUSAND hours developing the necessary skills to be a marginal blacksmith. Remember that it is generally accepted that it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert in a field of study. That's about 5 years of full time study/work. The other factors besides rebound you should be cultivating (and be as concerned about as anvil rebound) include but are not limited to hammer control, endurance, muscle memory, proper anvil mounting, basic metallurgy, fire management skills, proper vise and file usage, tong making/acquisition, proper use of safety gear, etc. Should I go on? Get all of those skills from practicing on whatever anvil and you could turn out good work on a rock.
  9. Probably junk.
  10. Thank you for the kind response Connor. I hope the OP takes you up on the offer.
  11. I agree. My wife owns a Peter Wright that has a distinct groove worn under the HH on the underside of the heel from wedges, and slotted tools pop up from time to time. Feels like I've seen that shape of working surface from time to time but I can't seem to jar the memory of what it was used for loose.
  12. That would be a cruel thing to do to the poor little dog...
  13. If the face is almost 5" wide you are in the 275 to 300# range. The confirmation, especially the smooth chamfer on the neck under the horn, would make me lean towards P Wright. Hardy holes were available in any size by request, my first Peter Wright was 150# and had a 1.25" hardy hole. I would cut it off that stand, the old girl deserves better. Looks like someone managed to kludge a weld onto a cinder block.
  14. Next meet will probably be in Goshen, CT sometime in September, but don't quote me.