lyuv

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  1. lyuv

    Making Camp Knife from Leaf Spring

    Before you sweat some more, check how much steel you have. I don't think it's enough. If the final width is 1", which is what you have, and the final thickness is 1/8", than you"ll have a length of only 3". Not including a tang. You also need to add a generous extra for losses to grinding, shaping, scale ect.
  2. It's a proccess I perfected through many repetitions. It's lengthy, painfull and requires you to sacrifie piece of your soul. However, due to it's vile nature, I can't provide detailed description. I"l only say that it involves the usual pleges (blood, first born ect.), bitter disappointment, old and new swear words (tears optional), calling for dark forces, some more tears and finaly - draging yourself to the shop to buy new steel (and lose some more self respect). Gibson - Thanks. It's about 2-2.2mm in the middle section. Sly - I Use coal forge, which makes it hard to judge exact temp and maintain uniform temp. Thomas - The pipe is a great idea. Will try that next time.
  3. OK. I think the point I was trying to make, was quickly lost to an extremely educated discussion on heat treating. But the point was not the heat treat itself, but the new way I found to fail - If a blade has a dish/crater banged into it (even very slighy), it's WAY harder to straighten. Jim - Yes. Wood mallet would be better. That's one lesson. I did normalize again after the first warp, but as the blade is only 2mm, it bent again in the quench. Frosty - For the pressure points I used the coins in the picture with the clamp. Far from ideal, but I did use that exact set up on more chalenging patient without fail. But I do intend to make a proper device. Sly - Thanks, but I have enough Mistake-Cleavers... Anyway, took the opurtunity for another leason, and broke the blade some more, to see check on the grains. it's O1 steel. Heated only for the heat treatment. At one time, It seemed the center got a LITTLE hotter than that non-magnetized temp. and only for few seconds, Well, the picture tells that this "little" diversion had a BIG impact. I find this very educational. BTW, this is what it should have looked like (the second attempt)
  4. I think it hardly matters now WHY it's brittle. It is what it is. All you can do is deal with it. A secondary bevel, with greater angle, is one way.
  5. lyuv

    Kitchen knife issues

    In fact - you WANT patina. It's an oxidation layer that helps prottect against the "bad" oxidation - the red one. Patina will evolve on it's own over time, and is also caused by some types of food like onion, garlic and mustard. I like to accelerate patina by rubbing my blades with cut onion or mustard. Clean your knife with soft material to keep the patina.
  6. Broke a blade while attempting to streighten a slight bend (from quenching), using the 3 points method, and under heat. It should have worked. But I kept bending and bending more, but it would not take. Until it broke. Only when I looked at the cross section, the mistery was solved: It was crescent shaped, which means the blade was dished rather than flat. So it had stractural strength and resisted bending. But why dished? I have ground it flat. Mental playback... Before quenching, I heated to normalize, and a bend appeared. So I placed the red hot blade on the anvil. Belly up, and tapped it with the hammer. THERE - I hammered on the center, and that dished it. Probably causing the bend in the quench, and preventing me from un-bending.
  7. I"m fantasizing about such a hammer for some time, and this looks like a design I can actualy make. Thanks for sharing. A little suggestion: seems the top horizonal beam is there "only" to keep the hammer vertical. If so, this is a light duty job, that can be done by a light weight beam (aluminum or wood). A heavy beam "steals" momentum and energy.
  8. I do envy you. As much as I like blacksmithing, I like introducing it to others. Alas, there are no others. At first, I thought MOST men will want to experience blacksmithing, and especialy bladesmithing. Then I corrected that to "many" men. Now I can't find any among my friends and colleagues. Even my own flesh and blood prefer to stay home with their computers. Every now and then, a kid "strays" into the shop, and gets excited about hammering hot iron. but that lasts no more than an hour. You"re must be doing something right.
  9. Hi all, I was asking and whining here about issues I had with a WI san-mai (thanks guys). Here is the conclusion: First mistake (and chalange) was having a 30mm stack, with only 4mm core. That's only 13% of the billt's thickness. The 6cm billet was strechet out to 23cm, so the core was reduced to only 0.8mm. It was a great chalange, and probably lots of luck, to keep the core centered all along the edge. Through the proccess, the core lost most of it's carbon to carbon migration. To the point it would not harden. So I was left with a nice looking KSO. Next time - thicker core and nickel liner. Will appreciate any input or comment (Sorry. I"m a lousy photographer too)
  10. lyuv

    Did I lose all my carbon?

    Thanks all, Templehound - you are correct about the source of the steel. I had good success with it in other blades, including san-mai, but never with such high temp or thin core. Seems I got to the limit., that so far I only knew about as a theoretical issue. Yes, I lost (one more) blade, but learned a valuable lesson. BTW - I never thought this would be easy, but the opposite. Every work I did so far (mostly knives) was first of it's kind. I like the research and the challenge. In this case, working with wrought iron was a first. The motivation for making the blade was to overcome the difficulty, and not to have a knife. I still dont know what to do with it if I"ll get it done :-).
  11. lyuv

    Did I lose all my carbon?

    Laticcino, The normalizing I asked about was for this blade. Only now I got to do the normalizing (and quenching). I kept my phone by the forge, and followed your instructions to the letter. My appologies for not responding. I got upset by the hardening thing (and other issues like delamination), and forgot to thank you. My bad. I did etch the blade to see the layers. And to be absolutly sure, I ground 1/2cm off the edge, and filed across all the edge. All soft. Also - A delaminarion exposed the core at a point, and I tested there too. I did harden that steel before, but can't be absolutly sure about the temp. I use a magnet and soak at the non-magnetic temo for several minutes. But I cant tell how high above that point I am. It IS possible I"m too close, and dropping too much before the quench. BTW, the blade is for a kitchen knife. the thickest point will be 3mm, tappering down to 1-1.5mm. And the clad should be seen on most of it. So I need the core to be very thin.
  12. I forged a san-mai blade with 1.25% carbon steel core (125sc), and wrought iron clad. After quenching, the core is soft. Tried twice - oil and water. Forging time was about 3-4 hours, and at very high temperature. The core started at 4mm thickness, and got down to about 1mm. Is it likely I lost more than half the carbon to carbon migration? Any other explenation/solution? I hesitate to just keep quenching, because I hear it's bad for the grain structure.
  13. I"m forging a blade with high carbon (pure carbon) core and wrough iron clad. Because of the WI, I have to work at very high temperature, which is bad for HC. As far as I know, it creates large grains. Is there a way to reduce the grain size?
  14. It depends on the construction of the forge. I get this kind of coal as left over in my forge (side blast), and I hate it. The small particles block the air pasage between the larger pieces. And as I crank the blower up, I get a geyser of burning coal (looks cool thou). In a bottom blast this did not occur. I suggest you just go ahead and try. Frankly, I have so much to do, an so little time, that I would never consider the extra work of treating the coal dust.