lyuv

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  1. WHAAAAT???? Why did nobody tell me about this before? I have been struggling with crumbling steel (mainly O1) since I started blacsmithing, and especialy bladesmithing. I blamed working too cold (...). I blamed air blasting through the coal. Blamed the hammer Seriously. That piece of information about hot shortness, is of top importance to any blacksmith working with steel. HUGE thank you to JHCC, Thomas and Irondragon. To anyone who tutors novice blacksmiths - don't forget to teach this!
  2. It may be my English, but I"m not sure what you guys mean when you say you got "cottage cheese". Do you mean burnt steel, or fractured? If it's "fractured" - I"m confused. I assumed that as steel gets hotter, it gets softer and more malleable. Hence, less prone to crack under hammering. I always "knew" that hotter = easier to work (up to the burning point, and beside the grain size issue). Is that true only for low carbon, or low alloy?
  3. Tried to forge weld two 1/2" bars. Hammering it, at what I thought was welding temp, the steel started to crack and crumble. How is that possible? Some info: 1. I"m a lousy welder, and poor judge of temp. 2. It's possible I got to burning. The lump on the bottom is a piece that broke off the end of the bar(s), and it looks burnt. BUT - the rest of the bar is just cracked, and that's the issue. It kept fracturing and falling apart. 3. The steel is a car's coil spring. Can it be some sort of steel that cant handle the heat? (at least in a blacksmith shop conditions)
  4. Damascus grips may be nice for a show piece. But I think it's not a good choice for any practical purpose gun - carry or sport. Rust and maintenance where mentioned. Also consider the added weight - which is uncomfortable by itself, AND it's in the wrong location, not helping sight stability or muzzle control. In cold weather, metal will bite a bare hand.
  5. I think the better setup is a high pressure (strong) fan, with low flow rate. (The opposite of a computer fan) You need the pressure to overcome resistance of the fuel, and to keep a constant flow when the resistance changes (as the fuel pieces shift). A bleed valve will help control the flow rate, and also help reduce unwanted load on the fan - It's better to let it blow "free" than to choke it.
  6. Does that mean this steel is not suitable for forging (as forging takes it to higher temperatures)? Thanks for that wealth of info!
  7. I tried this once, and failed. The problem being carbon migration from the core to the clad. Main reasons being: 1. The high heat needed to work the WI 2. The long forging time, due to the need to work the piece very hot. 3. The core being very thin at the final forging - I made a kitchen knife. Take this into consideration. And as Thomas suggested - experiment first.
  8. Before you sweat some more, check how much steel you have. I don't think it's enough. If the final width is 1", which is what you have, and the final thickness is 1/8", than you"ll have a length of only 3". Not including a tang. You also need to add a generous extra for losses to grinding, shaping, scale ect.
  9. It's a proccess I perfected through many repetitions. It's lengthy, painfull and requires you to sacrifie piece of your soul. However, due to it's vile nature, I can't provide detailed description. I"l only say that it involves the usual pleges (blood, first born ect.), bitter disappointment, old and new swear words (tears optional), calling for dark forces, some more tears and finaly - draging yourself to the shop to buy new steel (and lose some more self respect). Gibson - Thanks. It's about 2-2.2mm in the middle section. Sly - I Use coal forge, which makes it hard to judge exact temp and maintain uniform temp. Thomas - The pipe is a great idea. Will try that next time.
  10. OK. I think the point I was trying to make, was quickly lost to an extremely educated discussion on heat treating. But the point was not the heat treat itself, but the new way I found to fail - If a blade has a dish/crater banged into it (even very slighy), it's WAY harder to straighten. Jim - Yes. Wood mallet would be better. That's one lesson. I did normalize again after the first warp, but as the blade is only 2mm, it bent again in the quench. Frosty - For the pressure points I used the coins in the picture with the clamp. Far from ideal, but I did use that exact set up on more chalenging patient without fail. But I do intend to make a proper device. Sly - Thanks, but I have enough Mistake-Cleavers... Anyway, took the opurtunity for another leason, and broke the blade some more, to see check on the grains. it's O1 steel. Heated only for the heat treatment. At one time, It seemed the center got a LITTLE hotter than that non-magnetized temp. and only for few seconds, Well, the picture tells that this "little" diversion had a BIG impact. I find this very educational. BTW, this is what it should have looked like (the second attempt)
  11. I think it hardly matters now WHY it's brittle. It is what it is. All you can do is deal with it. A secondary bevel, with greater angle, is one way.
  12. In fact - you WANT patina. It's an oxidation layer that helps prottect against the "bad" oxidation - the red one. Patina will evolve on it's own over time, and is also caused by some types of food like onion, garlic and mustard. I like to accelerate patina by rubbing my blades with cut onion or mustard. Clean your knife with soft material to keep the patina.
  13. Broke a blade while attempting to streighten a slight bend (from quenching), using the 3 points method, and under heat. It should have worked. But I kept bending and bending more, but it would not take. Until it broke. Only when I looked at the cross section, the mistery was solved: It was crescent shaped, which means the blade was dished rather than flat. So it had stractural strength and resisted bending. But why dished? I have ground it flat. Mental playback... Before quenching, I heated to normalize, and a bend appeared. So I placed the red hot blade on the anvil. Belly up, and tapped it with the hammer. THERE - I hammered on the center, and that dished it. Probably causing the bend in the quench, and preventing me from un-bending.
  14. I"m fantasizing about such a hammer for some time, and this looks like a design I can actualy make. Thanks for sharing. A little suggestion: seems the top horizonal beam is there "only" to keep the hammer vertical. If so, this is a light duty job, that can be done by a light weight beam (aluminum or wood). A heavy beam "steals" momentum and energy.