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About lyuv

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  1. I"m fantasizing about such a hammer for some time, and this looks like a design I can actualy make. Thanks for sharing. A little suggestion: seems the top horizonal beam is there "only" to keep the hammer vertical. If so, this is a light duty job, that can be done by a light weight beam (aluminum or wood). A heavy beam "steals" momentum and energy.
  2. I do envy you. As much as I like blacksmithing, I like introducing it to others. Alas, there are no others. At first, I thought MOST men will want to experience blacksmithing, and especialy bladesmithing. Then I corrected that to "many" men. Now I can't find any among my friends and colleagues. Even my own flesh and blood prefer to stay home with their computers. Every now and then, a kid "strays" into the shop, and gets excited about hammering hot iron. but that lasts no more than an hour. You"re must be doing something right.
  3. Hi all, I was asking and whining here about issues I had with a WI san-mai (thanks guys). Here is the conclusion: First mistake (and chalange) was having a 30mm stack, with only 4mm core. That's only 13% of the billt's thickness. The 6cm billet was strechet out to 23cm, so the core was reduced to only 0.8mm. It was a great chalange, and probably lots of luck, to keep the core centered all along the edge. Through the proccess, the core lost most of it's carbon to carbon migration. To the point it would not harden. So I was left with a nice looking KSO. Next time - thicker core and nickel liner. Will appreciate any input or comment (Sorry. I"m a lousy photographer too)
  4. lyuv

    Did I lose all my carbon?

    Thanks all, Templehound - you are correct about the source of the steel. I had good success with it in other blades, including san-mai, but never with such high temp or thin core. Seems I got to the limit., that so far I only knew about as a theoretical issue. Yes, I lost (one more) blade, but learned a valuable lesson. BTW - I never thought this would be easy, but the opposite. Every work I did so far (mostly knives) was first of it's kind. I like the research and the challenge. In this case, working with wrought iron was a first. The motivation for making the blade was to overcome the difficulty, and not to have a knife. I still dont know what to do with it if I"ll get it done :-).
  5. lyuv

    Did I lose all my carbon?

    Laticcino, The normalizing I asked about was for this blade. Only now I got to do the normalizing (and quenching). I kept my phone by the forge, and followed your instructions to the letter. My appologies for not responding. I got upset by the hardening thing (and other issues like delamination), and forgot to thank you. My bad. I did etch the blade to see the layers. And to be absolutly sure, I ground 1/2cm off the edge, and filed across all the edge. All soft. Also - A delaminarion exposed the core at a point, and I tested there too. I did harden that steel before, but can't be absolutly sure about the temp. I use a magnet and soak at the non-magnetic temo for several minutes. But I cant tell how high above that point I am. It IS possible I"m too close, and dropping too much before the quench. BTW, the blade is for a kitchen knife. the thickest point will be 3mm, tappering down to 1-1.5mm. And the clad should be seen on most of it. So I need the core to be very thin.
  6. I forged a san-mai blade with 1.25% carbon steel core (125sc), and wrought iron clad. After quenching, the core is soft. Tried twice - oil and water. Forging time was about 3-4 hours, and at very high temperature. The core started at 4mm thickness, and got down to about 1mm. Is it likely I lost more than half the carbon to carbon migration? Any other explenation/solution? I hesitate to just keep quenching, because I hear it's bad for the grain structure.
  7. I"m forging a blade with high carbon (pure carbon) core and wrough iron clad. Because of the WI, I have to work at very high temperature, which is bad for HC. As far as I know, it creates large grains. Is there a way to reduce the grain size?
  8. It depends on the construction of the forge. I get this kind of coal as left over in my forge (side blast), and I hate it. The small particles block the air pasage between the larger pieces. And as I crank the blower up, I get a geyser of burning coal (looks cool thou). In a bottom blast this did not occur. I suggest you just go ahead and try. Frankly, I have so much to do, an so little time, that I would never consider the extra work of treating the coal dust.
  9. Phantom - I have a Hofi hammer, and like it very much. Never tried a Haberman, but from the looks of it, seems it has the same main features as the Hofi - stubby head, square face with rounded corners (for fullering), and a short handle. As for the price - Consider that the cost is not realy the price tag, but the differance between that tag and the cheap alternative (assuming you are set on buying something). One thing that style of hammer (or hammering?) gave me, was the ability to increase the hammer weight. If you"re looking for a change, THIS is a good thing too look at.
  10. lyuv

    My turn on the knifemaking TV show

    WELL DONE Jason! I"m very interested in hearing about the making of the show, from the competitor's point of view. Are you free to tell about it and answer questions?
  11. lyuv

    Workpiece losing heat

    It's very important to have the bare minumum contact of workpiece with the anvil. Try to have as much of the red piece as you can, hanging in the air (beyond the anvil's edge), where it will lose less heat. Also - lifting the piece between blows also reduces heat loss. So when you forge a square bar, it's a good practice to turn it every 1-2 blows. Not only for proper shaping, but you earn "air time". As mentioned - fast strong blows introduce heat into the metal. But these come with experience.
  12. OK, I"m confused. I always heard that wrought iron is "delight" to work with. But now I see that: 1. It must be on the verge of burning, so I can easily burn it if I miss a little. 2. If it gets too cold, the work piece will be ruined (welding is not always an option. especialy as the work progresses to it's end). 3. Obviously, if it's hotter, it also cools faster. Hence WI has a shorter forging time for each heat. So WI sounds like a nightmare rather than a delight. Am I wrong?
  13. Yesterday I worked for the first time, what is suppose to be wrought iron. Trying to simply draw a thick bar. Within 30 minuts, it developed many cracks and layers seperations. I failed to forge weld it back, with and without flux. A friend told me the cracking is because I need to work at extra high temperature. Close to burning. Is he right? Any other advice? Is this typical of wrought iron?
  14. Jlpservicesinc - Thank you. I was VERY unhappy with my metal loss ratio. But seeing that even a well seasoned "old crow" has to deal with loss, is a significant confidence boost. Me and my bladesmithing buddy, started logging our works, including material going in, and final weight. The purpose is to help us better plan. So far, the data is just embarrassing.
  15. Jilpserviceinc - I love this knife. Those clean and utilitarian lines are what I strive for. Can you please weight the knife and the chain? This will give us an idea of the upper limit of metal "efficiency" in this type of knife and proccess.