lyuv

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  1. Phantom - I have a Hofi hammer, and like it very much. Never tried a Haberman, but from the looks of it, seems it has the same main features as the Hofi - stubby head, square face with rounded corners (for fullering), and a short handle. As for the price - Consider that the cost is not realy the price tag, but the differance between that tag and the cheap alternative (assuming you are set on buying something). One thing that style of hammer (or hammering?) gave me, was the ability to increase the hammer weight. If you"re looking for a change, THIS is a good thing too look at.
  2. lyuv

    My turn on the knifemaking TV show

    WELL DONE Jason! I"m very interested in hearing about the making of the show, from the competitor's point of view. Are you free to tell about it and answer questions?
  3. lyuv

    Workpiece losing heat

    It's very important to have the bare minumum contact of workpiece with the anvil. Try to have as much of the red piece as you can, hanging in the air (beyond the anvil's edge), where it will lose less heat. Also - lifting the piece between blows also reduces heat loss. So when you forge a square bar, it's a good practice to turn it every 1-2 blows. Not only for proper shaping, but you earn "air time". As mentioned - fast strong blows introduce heat into the metal. But these come with experience.
  4. OK, I"m confused. I always heard that wrought iron is "delight" to work with. But now I see that: 1. It must be on the verge of burning, so I can easily burn it if I miss a little. 2. If it gets too cold, the work piece will be ruined (welding is not always an option. especialy as the work progresses to it's end). 3. Obviously, if it's hotter, it also cools faster. Hence WI has a shorter forging time for each heat. So WI sounds like a nightmare rather than a delight. Am I wrong?
  5. Yesterday I worked for the first time, what is suppose to be wrought iron. Trying to simply draw a thick bar. Within 30 minuts, it developed many cracks and layers seperations. I failed to forge weld it back, with and without flux. A friend told me the cracking is because I need to work at extra high temperature. Close to burning. Is he right? Any other advice? Is this typical of wrought iron?
  6. Jlpservicesinc - Thank you. I was VERY unhappy with my metal loss ratio. But seeing that even a well seasoned "old crow" has to deal with loss, is a significant confidence boost. Me and my bladesmithing buddy, started logging our works, including material going in, and final weight. The purpose is to help us better plan. So far, the data is just embarrassing.
  7. Jilpserviceinc - I love this knife. Those clean and utilitarian lines are what I strive for. Can you please weight the knife and the chain? This will give us an idea of the upper limit of metal "efficiency" in this type of knife and proccess.
  8. I"m not sure about the constant speed thing, but I AM sure that it's important to control the air - Not by choking the flow, but by bleeding it out. Choking makes the motor run slower. This is missleading. In fact, it strains, consumes more current and heats. If you bleed the excess air out (hence, less air to the forge), the motor has less wear.
  9. I have a side blast forge, shaped like a canal (trench?). The air opening is somewhat above the bottom. Obviously, heat an fire rises. So when a piece of coal is BELOW the opening level, it stops burning. Usually, the it's the smaller pieces that sink. The result is that small bits of coal (about rice size) get accumulated in the forge, and fill it all. Air cant get through, and it's just bad. I can sift and trash it, but it's a waste of good (and expensive) coal. Is there a way to avoid or handle this situation?
  10. I have a variation of it - the air hose has a variable opening ("throtle"?) near me. When it's open, it bleeds air out of the system. That's how I regulate air flow to the forge (in addition to a variable speed control). So, at a certain opening, and speed setting, I have an "idle" working. But when I block the opening with my hand, there is a boost of air. Sort of your "dead man switch". I can block the opening when the iron is in the fire ("boost" mode). I can leave it there on "idle" burn. I can set the intensity of the "idle" and the "boost" as I wish.
  11. I"m an engineer in my 50's. Over analizing is my thing (too?), so I have been where you"re now, and I can only advise you to pick a hammer and go forge a blade. The short experience will teach you WAY more that reading and analizing. At least regarding this issue. You already recognized the wide range of parameters and values (and interactions) involved. Formulating it, to a remotely reasonable accuracy, is futile.
  12. So, I"m the OP from 2 months ago. I was looking for an idea, and got plenty. Most where simple and elegant. But did I listen or think? NO. I had to be an ass and go for an unnecessarily elaborate design. Not suited for my equipment and skill. Anyway, this is it. It's functional. It took alot of work, but is does not make me proud.
  13. I plan to make a san-mai knife, with wrought iron clad. How do you suggest I finish/treat it for good aesthetics?
  14. Both knives you"ve made are hunting/fighting. I DO see the appeal of that type, but I think that after a while, these tend to collect dust in the drawer. So I suggest your next blade will be for the kitchen. Beside being an actualy usfull tool, it can be a little give back to the wife (if she's into cooking).