lyuv

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  1. lyuv

    Hofi

    Several days ago I mentioned I know Hofi, and was asked to post about his well being. Several months ago one of his legs was amputated, followed by a long hospitalization and rehabilitation. But it's only one leg, and Hofi is only 84 years young. So no biggie and he's back at the anvil. I visited him today, and disturbed him grinding a batch of several dozens hammers. He also plans to renew the classes. BTW - in November he will host a celebration for the 30th anneversary of the smithy (and smiithing). There will be a large log, and each guest is invited to bring a nail he forged, and stick it in the log.
  2. Countemeasure, correct me if I"m wrong, but seems you have not hit hot iron once. That's perfectly fine, and looking for your first hammer is a good starting point. But planing advanced projects, and striking station, is jumping WAAAY ahead. I have been there not long ago (and I"m not far from it now). Blacksmithing is NOT what it seems before you start. For example, hot steel is much harder than it seems on youtube. There are lots of limitations you need to account for when planning the steps for every little project, ect. I suggest you first get some experience. even few hours, before you procceed planing.
  3. At least here, this type is known a "German hammer". So perhaps in Germany it's knows as a "Hammer". [commercial link removed] I think you"ll find it in any hardware shop, and for only few euros. no need to order from abroad. As to making you"re own - nice, but it may take a long time to get there. NOT a beginer's project.
  4. Too small is not as bad as too big. As we dont know your physical build and capacity, 800gr is generaly OK. But I reccomend that you also get a 1-1.1kg cross peen hammer. At least a cheap one to start with. There is a good chance the 800gr will get too small after you gain some experience. My blacksmithing teacher claimed normaly you should start with the final hammer, which is 1.3kg (or 1.1 for women).
  5. Not all reamers are straight or plain tappers. Here is an example of a speciality reamer. Mine also has a radius thrown in...
  6. Two parts answer, and it too is serious: 1. Those of us that blacksmith for a hobby, could also find a more productive use for their time and money. But the chalange and the joy of making, are my (our?) reward. Same with the chalange of making a reamer. 2. The reamer is of special shape and not available. But it is needed for a project that is "only" for fun. So back to 1.
  7. Thanks all. Laticinno - that book is AMAZING! G-son - First, I have never done this, so my plan is no more than hope. That said, the plan is to turn the reamer on a lathe to the general shape. Cut longitudonal grooves (with a Dremel), leaving several "blades". File the top of those blades at a slight relief angle, except for a narrow strip at the cutting edge. and finaly harden and sharpen with a stone.
  8. I need to make a metal cutting tool (a reamer). So it needs to be as hard as it can be. The question is: should I temper it after quenching? The steels I have for the reamer are O1 and 5160. It's for a one time job, and needs to cut annealed steel. Thanks,
  9. WHAAAAT???? Why did nobody tell me about this before? I have been struggling with crumbling steel (mainly O1) since I started blacsmithing, and especialy bladesmithing. I blamed working too cold (...). I blamed air blasting through the coal. Blamed the hammer Seriously. That piece of information about hot shortness, is of top importance to any blacksmith working with steel. HUGE thank you to JHCC, Thomas and Irondragon. To anyone who tutors novice blacksmiths - don't forget to teach this!
  10. It may be my English, but I"m not sure what you guys mean when you say you got "cottage cheese". Do you mean burnt steel, or fractured? If it's "fractured" - I"m confused. I assumed that as steel gets hotter, it gets softer and more malleable. Hence, less prone to crack under hammering. I always "knew" that hotter = easier to work (up to the burning point, and beside the grain size issue). Is that true only for low carbon, or low alloy?
  11. Tried to forge weld two 1/2" bars. Hammering it, at what I thought was welding temp, the steel started to crack and crumble. How is that possible? Some info: 1. I"m a lousy welder, and poor judge of temp. 2. It's possible I got to burning. The lump on the bottom is a piece that broke off the end of the bar(s), and it looks burnt. BUT - the rest of the bar is just cracked, and that's the issue. It kept fracturing and falling apart. 3. The steel is a car's coil spring. Can it be some sort of steel that cant handle the heat? (at least in a blacksmith shop conditions)
  12. Damascus grips may be nice for a show piece. But I think it's not a good choice for any practical purpose gun - carry or sport. Rust and maintenance where mentioned. Also consider the added weight - which is uncomfortable by itself, AND it's in the wrong location, not helping sight stability or muzzle control. In cold weather, metal will bite a bare hand.
  13. I think the better setup is a high pressure (strong) fan, with low flow rate. (The opposite of a computer fan) You need the pressure to overcome resistance of the fuel, and to keep a constant flow when the resistance changes (as the fuel pieces shift). A bleed valve will help control the flow rate, and also help reduce unwanted load on the fan - It's better to let it blow "free" than to choke it.
  14. Does that mean this steel is not suitable for forging (as forging takes it to higher temperatures)? Thanks for that wealth of info!
  15. I tried this once, and failed. The problem being carbon migration from the core to the clad. Main reasons being: 1. The high heat needed to work the WI 2. The long forging time, due to the need to work the piece very hot. 3. The core being very thin at the final forging - I made a kitchen knife. Take this into consideration. And as Thomas suggested - experiment first.