lyuv

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About lyuv

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    Senior Member

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    Israel

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  1. Is epoxy really needed

    I like epoxy in my handles (hidden tangs). First for keeping moisture out. I found that even a tiny gap will retain enough water to create a major rust issue. Another reason is to strengthen the wood - being pretty, it may not be strong, or the grains may not run straight and lengthwise. The epoxy and the tang greatly strengthen the handle.
  2. She's a leading scientist in a medical research regarding diabetes. I dont see how I can do a theme, as a card holder is very small, and my skills limited. But i"m open to ideas. No worries here. So far I"m painfully not laden with (any) requests. But if there will be, I"ll be honored and happy to provide.
  3. The wife got a promotion, and with it her first business cards. She's very happy and proud about it, so I thought I"ll forge her a desk top business cards holder. I"m looking for design ideas, as currently I"m blank. Thanks,
  4. Am I too slow?

    OH Glenn, WHY did you go there? The only reward I got from my customer (AKA "family") was the aknwolegment that the left opener "looks solid". On the bright side, it's more than the usual "oooh.k.".... There is a common agreement (which I share) that practice is a key to improvement. But I think we need to make a distinction between two types: There is the simple repetition of the same task. The first time I twisted the leaves they faced opposite ways. A mistake I wont repeat the second time. Repetitions obviously do improve performance (as any trained monkey will tell you ). Then there is the more general experience. At least in my eyes, true skill is the ability to handle a new task. This includes not only the basic skills (hammer work, shaping ect.), but also understanding the metal, heat management and planing the process. So I think I should revise my original question, and have the measurment of work time be specific to a "first time". These words should be made the logo of IFI !!! certainly represent EXACTLY what blacksmithing is for me. Thank you ThorsHammer82.
  5. I"m not happy with how long it takes me to make things. My time at the forge totals 50-100 hour, and most things I do - I do for the first time. So experience wise, I"m not a total newbie, but... what? ("advanced beginner"?) I made these 2 bottle openers from 12mm square bar. Total work time 2-1/2 hours. There are several basic blacksmithing operations - drawing, twisting, bending, grinding and of course - leaf making. Work quality - mediocre. How would you evaluate the work time it took? or the time it would take a seasoned blacksmith? BTW - I"m ashamed I"m not creative enough, so I copied design ideas from works published here. Can"t remember who deserves the credit. sorry.
  6. I would be very interested both in hardness testing and in material identification, thou these are very different things. As for hardness testing technology - there is a device that is based on measuring the bounce of a small steel ball off the sample. It's very fast and rasonably accurate. But very expensive. For my needs, a deviation of +/-1 HRC unit is accurate anough.
  7. Coffee and Steel

    This sounds like a very interesting finishing method to explore, and I intend to do so. However, coffee roasting temperature is in the range of 190-250c (the oil smoke is at the higher end). Deep within the tempering zone. So it may be an issue with some steels and applications.
  8. Mini Camping Cleaver

    MastaStan, I realy like your work. I"m a big fan of forged finish and use it alot. However, my blades usualy show the hammer marks on top of some scale and rather smooth blackening. Nothing like the extensive pitted coroded look (in a good way) of your cleaver. Any info on how you got this finish?
  9. Good video. Using the heel of the hammer was new for me. Thanks! I was trained with the anvil edge method. It's non-intuitive, because you start at the back of the tapper, and you need to "guess" how deep to forge as you progress toward the tip. But with very little practice this technique can be mastered. And it has a significant advantage of keeping the un-forged stock off the anvil, so heat is preserved.
  10. The Ghost Dog

    Inovative and impresive as always. I enjoy your work very much.
  11. Should I mill my Anvil?

    I realy dislike to sit a flat hard object on a flat hard surface. You will never get perfect contact, and any tiny warp due to temperature, aging ect. will get things wobling. Why not get something rubbery in between? Like a mat or rubber cement. It will solve your flatness issue, and perhaps also reduce some noise.
  12. Homemade 2x72 Belt Grinder. Check it out!

    If you want a free standing machine, you may want to consider an adjustable hight design like this one. It gives you the option to work standing or sitting. I found that with long grinding sessions, sitting is much easier on the legs and the back. The single leg is less rigid than a "table" costraction, but it's not an actual problem, and it depends on the thickness of the material you use.
  13. Brand new Hofi Hammer

    AHHH, the magic hammer! Your days of hard work and troubles are over. Your hair will grow lush. Will never run out of hot water in the middle of a shower. The wife will take the kids for a long vacation. Good times. I have it for a year now, and had only one death in the family. Praise the Hofi.
  14. Belt tracking problems

    Check this out: http://www.visusa.com/belt_tracking_m01.htm#pt crown height table_mm
  15. Belt tracking problems

    With no crown, there is no way/reason that the belt will stay centered, no matter how aligned and square everything is. If your driving a straight road, and hold your steering wheel fixed straight, the car WILL eventualy stray. You can makeshift a crown by wraping tape on the middle of the driving or tracking wheels (or both!). 1-2mm will do. A VERY nice machine you have there. Kudos.