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About lyuv

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  1. When I was young, blacksmithing tools were considered junk, and were free. But nobody wanted them. Now these are sold as antiques for decoration, and priced acordingly. No bargains any more. Phats - Assuming you"re only starting, I suggest you limit yourself to the bare necessities. Anvil you already got. Buy cheap cross peen hammer at a hardware store. Perhaps a ball peen too. One per of tongs, and make some more. Quick-and-dirty will do. Make a chisel and your done.
  2. Thank guys. I"m not sure I used the right term. I mean something like this: It's a good point about power control. So I thought to add a spring that pulls down on the hammer (like in the picture), and a pedal that controls the tention of that spring. So I can increase the striking force with that pedal. However, I d not see anyone doing that, so there may be a bug in my logic.
  3. If your goal is to ease the load on your arm, you need to gain some advantage. Mechanical, energetic or ergonomic. And I see none. You need to move the same mass and your arm provides all the energy. The differance is the path, that seems less natural - further from the body, and arched away. Another differance - more force downward and less upward. I have no idea if this is better or worst. I think you can gain advantage by increasing the swing length. Hence, less force/strain (but for a longer time). The device will also enable you to "hammer" with your weak hand. Another point - Any moving mass that is not the hammer itself (the angle iron, the arm ect) , is wasting your energy. You need to accelerate it, and gain very little of it's momentum into the forging itself. Do try to minimize that excess mass and/or it's distance from the pivot point.
  4. I need (want?) a power hammer, and intend to build one. All I could get for it is a 3/4hp motor. My dilema is the configuration: Most power hammers I see, use toggle connection between the hammer and the motor.But a trip mechanism is much simpler and suited to my humble means. Why is the trip hammer so unpopular? Will I be loosing much if I"ll go this way? Is there a simple design that is significantly better?
  5. I asume the problem is COMITING you and the client to the deal. Perhaps there are ways around that comitment. Like: 1. If the grate may fit other clients, you can make it first (or several), and then price it. Let the client decide if he wants it. 2. Make part of it, so you get better estimation of the work ahead. Then price it and see if the client agrees. Worst case - you lost some work. Perhaps it's reusable.
  6. As for kitchen utensils. and specificly knives - over use and time (few weeks), the metal will get a layer of "patina" - sort of oxidation that will protect it from the "bad oxidation" - red rust. At first it looks like dark and unsightly spots. Dont rub them off. Wash the knife gently and oil between uses. the darkness will grow (hehe...) and you"ll get a protective layer, so you dont need the oil any more.
  7. Some AWSOME dragons where presented on the forum, so I wanted to try my hands at one (in other words - got jealous...). In addition, the wife asked for a buissiness cards holder. So the plan was a fierce dragon, with a long sneak like body, coiled to form a cavity for the cards. Never made dragon scales, so I made a scrap test piece. Then made the head (also a first). When a kid thought it was a donkey, I realized change of plan was in order. The test piece was recovered, welded to the head, and a more "lay back" dragon emerged. It does hold cards - on it's feet, against it's calves. However, the wife sais "it's too nice to take to the office". Whatever that means...
  8. lyuv


    Several days ago I mentioned I know Hofi, and was asked to post about his well being. Several months ago one of his legs was amputated, followed by a long hospitalization and rehabilitation. But it's only one leg, and Hofi is only 84 years young. So no biggie and he's back at the anvil. I visited him today, and disturbed him grinding a batch of several dozens hammers. He also plans to renew the classes. BTW - in November he will host a celebration for the 30th anneversary of the smithy (and smiithing). There will be a large log, and each guest is invited to bring a nail he forged, and stick it in the log.
  9. Countemeasure, correct me if I"m wrong, but seems you have not hit hot iron once. That's perfectly fine, and looking for your first hammer is a good starting point. But planing advanced projects, and striking station, is jumping WAAAY ahead. I have been there not long ago (and I"m not far from it now). Blacksmithing is NOT what it seems before you start. For example, hot steel is much harder than it seems on youtube. There are lots of limitations you need to account for when planning the steps for every little project, ect. I suggest you first get some experience. even few hours, before you procceed planing.
  10. At least here, this type is known a "German hammer". So perhaps in Germany it's knows as a "Hammer". [commercial link removed] I think you"ll find it in any hardware shop, and for only few euros. no need to order from abroad. As to making you"re own - nice, but it may take a long time to get there. NOT a beginer's project.
  11. Too small is not as bad as too big. As we dont know your physical build and capacity, 800gr is generaly OK. But I reccomend that you also get a 1-1.1kg cross peen hammer. At least a cheap one to start with. There is a good chance the 800gr will get too small after you gain some experience. My blacksmithing teacher claimed normaly you should start with the final hammer, which is 1.3kg (or 1.1 for women).
  12. Not all reamers are straight or plain tappers. Here is an example of a speciality reamer. Mine also has a radius thrown in...
  13. Two parts answer, and it too is serious: 1. Those of us that blacksmith for a hobby, could also find a more productive use for their time and money. But the chalange and the joy of making, are my (our?) reward. Same with the chalange of making a reamer. 2. The reamer is of special shape and not available. But it is needed for a project that is "only" for fun. So back to 1.
  14. Thanks all. Laticinno - that book is AMAZING! G-son - First, I have never done this, so my plan is no more than hope. That said, the plan is to turn the reamer on a lathe to the general shape. Cut longitudonal grooves (with a Dremel), leaving several "blades". File the top of those blades at a slight relief angle, except for a narrow strip at the cutting edge. and finaly harden and sharpen with a stone.
  15. I need to make a metal cutting tool (a reamer). So it needs to be as hard as it can be. The question is: should I temper it after quenching? The steels I have for the reamer are O1 and 5160. It's for a one time job, and needs to cut annealed steel. Thanks,