Steve Shimanek

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About Steve Shimanek

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    American Samoa
  • Interests
    toolmaking, blades, blacksmithing

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  1. So maybe TIG weld on a mild steel handle after preheat, stick it in the forge, then into some vermiculite for a slow cool, then reharden the chisel tip?
  2. I forged out a bent handle chisel from O1 stock, but had cracks at the point where the handle met the chisel body, which I gas welded with ER70s rod. The cracking continued to be a problem, but I thought i had it whipped until I was trying to rivet the end of the tang on the handle, and the whole handle fell off. i want to save the work I did; any advice on welding on a tang? I have gas, stick, and TIG equipment available.
  3. Elementary Forge Practice by Robert H. Harcourt, Stanford University Press 1917, reprinted by Lindsay Publications.
  4. I found this book while cruising Ebay for blacksmith stuff; it seemed like it might have some useful information, so i bought it. It was designed as a trade school reference in 1917, so it is a bit dated in many respects, but the projects and the drawings are well worth while and still relevant. The book was about $10 with $5 shipping, came quickly, and is in trade paperback format. 144 pages; I cruised through the whole thing last night. I recommend this for beginners and experienced smiths alike as an excellent addition to any blacksmiths' library.
  5. I got a chuckle from "any decent spring shop should be able to help" such thing around here. Do you see a problem with the geometry of my machine in progress? The problem with Northern Tool is that they use Fedex for ground delivery in the mainland US and apparently Fedex is not consistently able to then transfer to the USPS. Somehow what should have been 2 to 3 weeks by air turned into 3 months by ship. I do buy from them every now and then anyway. I haven't bought my valving yet, but have spec'd the parts from McMaster-Carr. I can dig up the part numbers if anyone wants to review the list i came up with.
  6. I ordered a shop air kit from Northern Priority Mail 3 months got misdirected and ended up on ocean mail, finally got it about a week ago. The compressor is installed and wired already. I still need to get my valving, but the project is still alive.
  7. It has been hitting in the 90s and doing anything means sweating buckets here.
  8. Finally back to making some headway on this project; I wired up the compressor, had a flexible hose made, and ordered some air hose from Northern....also took apart the cylinder, reamed out the end cap port, cleaned, resembled and primed it. When funds permit, I still need to order the valves.
  9. The Color Guard of the Salt River Pima Maricopa Indian community used black berets with the SF crossed arrow insignia as their badge; all were former military, some of them were SF and arrows are definitely associated with American Indians. I was an honorary member as a retired officer and from an associated community. My take on the stolen valor issue is that as long as someone is not falsely posing as something they are not, the wearing of non specialized insignia is not really an issue. Special qualification badges not earned are another issue, one that is frowned upon. Some presumably well intentioned persons have berated people innocently wearing a shirt or hat with a service insignia as stolen valor, going way overboard. I like the anvil unit patch; a t shirt with that will be cool.It won't be long before it will be available through civilian sources that sell militaria.
  10. Impressive build; I see no excess movement, unlike a lot of home built machines. That was a sizable piece you were hitting on, so it looks like it hits well. How big of a gap is there between the tup and anvil? You might just adjust the turnbuckle out a little to get a harder hit.
  11. This is as clean as it has been since i made it
  12. burnt? grain looks large; you didn't quench it, or forge too cold? No idea unless you specify all of your process.