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About JHCC

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    Grammar Hammer, Master of None
  • Birthday 04/30/1968

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    Northeast Ohio

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  1. Oh, it's an excellent find. Nice shape, good rebound; use it in good health.
  2. Undulations are a sign that the pritchel and hardy holes were punched; another indication of a forged top section.
  3. It's for the sizing of common nails: "In current usage in the United States, a 2d nail is 1 inch long. Each 1d increase is ¼ inch increase in length up to 10d followed by a 12d which is 3¼″ long. A sixteen-penny nail is a ¼ inch longer than 12d, and the remaining sizes, beginning with 20d, are multiples of 10 and are each ½ inch longer than the preceding size." (source)
  4. "Undulations on the Underside" is my new band name.
  5. Getting back to the original subject, there are two issues at play with the weight of the anvil: mass under the hammer, and total mass of the system. Mass under the hammer (as discussed above) is how much anvil material there is directly under the hammer blow. The more you have, the better the rebound. Total mass of the system is the mass of the anvil plus the mass of the stand. This does not affect rebound, but it does affect the stability of the anvil and whether or not you have any energy lost to a moving or rocking anvil. Not all hammer blows are straight down on the sweet spot of the anvil: you get angled blows, blows that curl a scroll around the horn, etc. The more total mass you have in the system (especially if the stand sits flat on the floor and the anvil is rigidly attached to the stand), the more the anvil will resist being moved, and the more energy will go from the hammer blow into distorting your workpiece. To give an example, imagine you're using a baseball bat to hit a watermelon suspended by a string. If the watermelon is in front of a brick wall (high total mass), your bat will smash it to bits (assuming you swing hard enough). If the watermelon is in front of a single end-on brick balanced on top of a broomstick (same mass-under-hammer, but much lower total mass), you'll still do some damage, but not nearly as much.
  6. What is this "air tightness" of which you speak? By the way, the great oven disassembly of 2016 left me with a ton of hex head sheet metal screws, which are coming in very handy.
  7. Go light on the air supply, too. Charcoal doesn't like too much blast.
  8. Yes, that's the inlet. I haven't yet figured out how to attach the blower, but then again, I'm not yet sure what the blower actually will be. I'll probably start off with the same shop vac I was using before, but Lisa just got a new vacuum and I'm all set to modify the old one.
  9. I've made another thread that shows the insides of the gate; see here.
  10. It's pretty rough and ready and leaks a lot, but it does a great job of adjusting the blast.
  11. I made this gate valve for my new JABOD forge and thought folks might like to see how the insides work. It was pretty easy to put together, and all the materials were screws and pallet wood that I had on hand already. Starting with the back board of the forge, I drilled a 2" diameter hole in the middle. I used a big Forstner bit for all the holes, but since the pallet wood was so hard (red oak), I had to hog most of the material from the middle of each hole with a twist bit. The middle layer has two holes spaced 2" apart: one that directs the blast into the tuyere and one that exhausts the excess air. The sliding gate has a 2" x 4" oval. When the gate is all the way in, the oval connects the blower with the tuyere. When it's pulled out, the oval connects the blower with the exhaust vent. Another piece of wood covers the outside and holds the whole thing together. The 2" hole is centered between the tuyere and the exhaust vent. The little metal clip keeps the gate from pulling out, and there's a little block of wood at the end (see top photo) that keeps it from pushing in too far.
  12. Here is the gate valve on the back: When the gate is pushed all the way in, all the air goes into the tuyere. When it's pulled out, the blast vents out of the rectangular slot on the top. It's pretty much infinitely adjustable between those two extremes. The little metal clip keeps the gate from coming out too far. I'll upload some more photos of the forge once I've got the clay in place.
  13. I've been wanting to make a JABOD (Just A Box Of Dirt) forge ever since Charles R. Stevens first posted his original description. It just occurred to me that a sheet metal box salvaged from my oven replacement project would be a good base, so here goes. I started by making a base from an old pallet cut to the proper width: Using the cut-off section for one end: Legs in the other corners (more pallet wood) and a robust diagonal brace: The sheet metal box with the sides built up with some more pallet wood: (This photo shows how I built up the back fairly high and added another piece of oven side to protect the wood, as well as the pipe that I'll be using for the tuyere. The handle for the gate valve is visible on the left.)
  14. Made a gate valve for the JABOD forge WIP.