Prokopto

okay called ESAB and they told me what the size and pitch of the threads are.

This is sure shaping up to be some great mystery or perhaps it's a high-holy secret.

The connector (the part that screws on to the mixer body) is a Victor 4-um-1 if that helps

Does anyone know what size thread dies I need for a size 100 Victor brazing tip? I broke my favorite rosebud off at the swage nut and wanted to rethread the stem to fix it. My Kindle completely messed up my last post. I went back and edited the copy but didn't notice that "threads" had been split into "the ads" *sigh* So I'm posting this again so the title is accurately reflective of my question. Please don't ban me or put me in iforgeiron timeout. Bill

Great suggestion thanks

awesome suggestions friends I will give that a try.

Glen, I'm after a 45-60 pound hammer so I'm assuming the recommended ratio is 10:1 so I guess I need something 450-600 pounds. I'd be willing to laminate some 1" plate in strips to get to that weight as well but one solid piece is preferred. Bill

Thank you pnut. I should also add that I really want to avoid “new steel” prices.

Dos anyone know where a fella could find something from which to make an anvil suitable for a 40-60 pound power hammer? I live in Mechanicsville, VA and was thinking maybe the shipyards in Norfolk would be a good starting point but most scrap yards I contacted are "Single-Contract Sellers" and can't sell me even so much as an old rusty nail. Any help would be welcomed. Bill

Indeed, I gave him an old hook from the same wagon that was 5/8" wrought iron and he rearranged his office so that it could hang from a wall stud and still be behind his desk. Actually, I bent the sections along the flat plane by dropping them hot across the anvil horn which I hear is called an inertia bend.

You're hooked now.... :-)

thanks

Does anyone know if the different components of the fire pot originally had any sort of dope or sealant between all the connections? There is the fire pot, the ring that has the sockets for the clinker breaker, and the tuyere pipe. It all fits quite snugly but I was wondering if those connections were originally sealed with something.

sweet I have some mild steel that will work. thanks

thanks. yes, he first tuyere cover I made for my buffco rivet forge was 1/4" stainless and it flaked away after two years and got thin especially where I'd drilled it... this last one has not so indeed it must be hit and miss. The issue with the stainless in the rivet forge is that sometimes I see it glowing red so I know it is sinking heat away from my work. Still I can forge weld in it just fine so it must not matter as much as I think.