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About Shabumi

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    Nevada City, Ca

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  1. Thanks. I'll keep posting them here as I make them. I can already see that I'm going to need to make some different shaped punches and chisels. I used my whole sculpting arsenal on the bulldog/lioness/circus bear? A large ball punch, a small ball punch and a not as sharp as it could be hot cut. I try to set attainable goals for myself, none of the vague "eat healthier" or "go to the gym more". I figure ~2 a week should be in my grasp as a hobbiest.
  2. Well, I've decided to make a new years resolution to make 100 animal heads this year. Mostly to give me practice forge welding, but the sculpting practice it gives me won't hurt. Here is 1 and 2 for this year (4 and 5 of my total animal head count)
  3. I found this video of Brian Brazeal talking about the Haberman bend. There is even a iforgeiron mention around 5:15 in the vid. Perhaps I missed something in the video, but he thins the outside of the bend to "exceed" it. Wouldn't that weaken the bend by having less material where bent?
  4. Pnut, yup those are the style I was looking at, only bigger. That one looks like they just bent the teeth in, while the one I was looking at had been upset and then bent, which I will try to do to make it stronger. Goose and TP, tie rods or sway bar, hmm, I'll have to look for those when I head down to the local scrap yard, they have a few of my bottle openers already, so I think it will only cost me a 12 pack... Of donuts. I have a pretty good rapor with the guys there, my dad was a backyard mechanic and he frequented it often enough for the workers there to know me by my first name, that and it's a small town and I went to school with most of their kids. That was where I was going to source the 1 inch rebar as well so I'll just shop around while I'm there. Thank you everyone for pointing me in the right direction, I will post progress if/when I remember to. Hopefully soon if the weather cooperates
  5. I searched for log tongs, and I like what I see. The one that looks like it would do the trick would be a 24inch jaw. It starts with 1" stock, a simple enough design, just need to work on my 90°+ bends. It is a "drop forged alloy steel, tempered for strength where the force is applied", which tells me that I should harden and temper, though I was hoping mild steel would work *sigh* and isn't force applied along the whole tool? Alas more questions. The max weight of the one I thought would work was 3000lbs at 15°, 3500 at 30°(I'm guessing this is the angle of the jaws when set in the log). This would most likely be the toughest use this tool would get. The logs are about 10-15ft under water, 30ft from shore. We only need to get them to shore, once they're on the ground he has the equipment to deal with them. We could probably just drop a set of the tongs over a smaller section instead of right at the base to make it easier (work smarter, not harder, right?). I think I'll make it more of a log skidder instead if a lifter, that way he can get a bit more use out of it than just this job. He's always pulling logs around with his quad/side by side/truck, this way he won't have to chain up each log when he does. Now I know rebar gets a bad rap, but would the texture be beneficial for a set of log tongs? They are meant to grab things, and wouldn't more texture give more grip? I only ask because I can get to some 1in rebar locally vs a 2.5 hour 1 way trip to the closest, that I've found, steel supplier
  6. My buddy asked for a large hook that he can use to catch and pull out a few trees in his pond that are too far out to get with his excavator. My first question is, is there already a product out there that is designed for the task already that I can copy? All I've been able to come up with when searching is small dredging hooks meant to pull weeds at the bottom of the pond, or grappling hooks for climbing trees, neither is quite what I was looking for. Question 2: if the grappling hook is what I'm looking for, how large of a hook would I need to pull out a water logged pine that's ~2.5ft diameter at the base and 20-30ft long? Question 3: is there a certain angle for the pointy part of the hook to be to be able to hook and sink in? The trees are deep enough that it would be tough to manually attach them, so hooking them is the best option I see. Question 4: would such a hook need to be hardened, or would it be ok without? Any info that could get me closer to a working tool would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  7. Hahaha, the guy from Alaska calls it an Oregon Mill, while I've only ever heard it called an Alaskan mill. We had a neighbor who rented his out(with him as operator) to locals who had 1-3 trees to mill up, past that it was more cost effective to rent a mobile mill. Ive helped him when he was at home and what kozzy said is correct. SHARP is key, if he was milling soft wood, he'd sharpen his chain every 7th pass, and hard wood every 5th pass. On certain high dollar jobs he sharpened each pass, but that was usually oak burls. I wouldn't be able to tell you what he charged, but he paid a pretty good wage to a teenager helping him, $20 an hour. Worked for him for 3 summers before he passed. My job was to place wedges, stack boards as they were finished, move logs into place, keep an eye out for dangers while he was engrossed in the milling and to keep the customer a safe distance away. Though the last one was mostly to keep them from bothering him mid cut.
  8. Interesting, I was taught to use a single Y shaped stick. Same principle as your method, hold the arms in your hands with the leg away from you, but instead of crossing sticks, you know where the water is when the leg drops down towards the ground
  9. Those are great ideas, I'll have to check out what I can find in the thrift shops when I next visit.
  10. Hahaha. I posted before reading any of the new content in this thread. First off, great looking hammers Conrad, can wait till I'm at the point where I can make one myself. Good on you guys for using leftovers. They are my favorite part of tday dinner, or most meals. Besides the obligatory turkey Sammy the day after, we take the turkey, gravy and veggies and thow them all together in a pie crust for a quick pot pie. Mmm. TP. I'll probably have to shovel tday morning as we will have 15-30 people coming, depending on how late it keeps snowing. Luckily they park they plow right next to our barn when they know it's going to snow in the area, so everyone should be able to make it here without a problem. The snow won't last long, another storm is coming Sunday, and it looks more like a fall rain vs another snow, so I'll be left with red mud soup to slodge around in. Yay!
  11. Just got done bringing the whole shop in under cover. We went from the middle of fire season to the middle of winter in 2 hours. Supposed to snow all of tomorrow and into Thanksgiving morning. They say it'll be 1-2 feet by the time it's done
  12. I currently do most of my work with a gas forge, but this drum works well enough for my experiments. Though it will make metal hot, I doubt the firepot is ideal. I'll work on that after my proof of concept. I'm not using a brake rotor, in fact I'm not sure what it was before I found it. It has 5 holes around the perimeter each about 3/4" in diameter. The open top that you see in the picture was closed with a plate, with what I believe was a cylindrical electric igniter mounted in the center. I had found old soot lining the inside of it when I found it, which is what made me think it'd be a good fire pot. I use it with a hair dryer, blown through dryer ducting with a gate valve on the end, 2.5 inch I think. The gate valve goes into the side of the barrel to the open space below the firepot. The hope is that the gate valve will be enough to control the airflow when the system is put together and I remove the blower entirely
  13. This is another problem I've come across, my thoughts were to put small chains hanging very close together in the door to reduce inflow of outside air while still allowing you to see what's going on in the forge. Having an opening behind the firepot for longer pieces would have to have a workaround as well, as any openings would change the flow of the draw. Also I immagine it would have to ramp up to get max airflow and would be a fuel hog if you had it on a "set and forget" setting instead of constantly adjusting airflow. I had seen Weygers forge early on when I was just starting out and had forgot about it until you mentioned it. Perhaps it planted the seed of the idea without my knowing. I'll need to pull out my copy of CMB and look it up again and see if/how he overcame some of the obstacles.
  14. Just saw your reply. I haven't built it yet as I realized I was spending more time working on a forge that may or may not work, vs spending the time forging. I ended up buying a second hand 1 burner chili forge for $200. So it's on the back burner for now. I have changed the design a bit for when i do get to it. To start, I realized that the long down draft before the chimney was going to have too much "drag" for a naturally drafted chimney. So it will have to be a side or top draft vs bottom draft. Also the washer/dryer frame I have that was to become the forge body was far from air tight, so all the excess air entering would have reduced the amount of draft i would have had. Current build is a 55 gal drum, with the lid set as a shelf 1/3 way up, fire pot set into lid. Still need to clay it to make it air tight, and to get another lid to make the chimney. Fire pot is 6in diameter, 2 3/4in deep with 5, 3/4 in holes in a star pattern around the sides. Works fine for charcoal with a blower, but still wondering how it'll work without one.
  15. It was more muscle memory than anything else, the dojo I was at as a kid made us do 20 minutes of rolling before every class, so I can't not roll like that without forcing it. Now I'm working on making hammer control into muscle memory. Good looking leaf blackegg, reminds me of the madrone trees we have out here.