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I Forge Iron

Shabumi

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About Shabumi

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    Male
  • Location
    Nevada City, Ca

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  1. Been away for too long, but I did mess with a bit of the viking knitting I did a while ago. Also got to show the young doxies where their bones come from
  2. Living in California, I have access to some of those too
  3. That's the plan, though which herbs to use? I have some sage smudges drying, as well as as much fresh chocolate mint, rosemary, thyme, catsmint, horehound, mullein, lemonbalm, fennel and feverfew as I'd want. The lavender hasn't started blooming yet, but I can add that when it is. Also coming soon will be dill weed, oregano, basil, fresh coriander and chives. That doesn't count all the non fragrant herbs available to me. I had read in an old Italian manuscript (I think it had medico or medici in the title) that the "hot" herbs shouldn't be used, and mint was listed as "hot", but I can't seem to find it again to double check. I can't remember if it mentioned if dried or fresh herbs were used or if you stuff the beak with loose threshs or use a satchel. I am fudging on the details I did remember, like I should have used Heather oil to permeate the mask, but I don't think the Heather I know would let me press her for oil so I used BLO instead. I wish I could find the manuscript again, it was an interesting read. It also had a preventative for the plague that was made with mercury, cobalt and liver of sulphur mixed with herbs into a paste and added to your morning tea
  4. I'm sorry to hear of your loss. Abby was a special one indeed. May her calming joy wash over you with each memory
  5. not too difficult, I used some extra bailing wire to give it a try. I like it
  6. Got the mask all put together, its not as flexible as the paper version so it doesn't fit as well, but not too bad for a first try at a mask, eh? There's a lot i'd do differently next time, like start collaring from the tip vs the opening, as well as changes to the template to make it easier to work in metal, but I'm proud of the effort i put in and the result that came out. Also tried out the viking weave in what passes for bailing wire these days to see how it would come out. I like how it went from a not so nice looking weave to halfway decent just by drawing it through the draw plates. Also shown are my draw plates and my sophisticated drawing method of hanging the chain from a nail in an overhead beam and using my whole body weight to draw it through. Went from 6 inches of ~1 inch round to 11 inches of 1/2 inch round. I want to see how it will look if i draw it through smaller holes at forging heat.
  7. Thank you, I was forgetting this part. I will try again when I have some time and see if I can get the last chance to work. If not I may just go for the steel sheet version that's been brass brushed instead
  8. today i had a day where nothing seemed to go right, it might have had something to do with me working too hard on the first 90+ degree day we had yesterday. No heat stroke, but it felt like i was close, which is why i took it easy today and was able to get a bit of shop time in. i had enough .01" brass left for 3 tries at making the tip of the raven/plague mask i am working on, and i made a sheet steel rivet-less trial 2 days ago with little trouble, but the brass didn't want to cooperate. the first try i chiseled the fold lines all the way through with out thinking, and the second time i was much more careful and got it all folded together, but on the 2nd hit when riveting it fell apart on me. any suggestions for improvement? perhaps my design is to difficult for this thin of brass, am i just too heavy handed or should i just go with the sheet steel and brass bush it (after i clean it up)? I'm showing a picture of the 2nd failed brass piece, the steel piece that is should look like and the riveting anvil i made from a tooth off an unknown farm implement and a 25 lb counter weight off an old homemade sawmill that has had more salvaged from it than is left on it. I drew a rough profile of the tooth as you cant see it in the picture. the tooth fits right up to the last rivet in the tip of the beak, but only just, so that may have been my problem as well. it worked fine on the test rivet i did on a random piece a few days ago, it didnt even shift as i hammered the head on the bailing wire test rivet like i was expecting it to.
  9. Sorry I haven't been able to do much more than lurk for a while. Wow, everyone has been doing some great stuff. The weather's been nice so I've been too busy to do much in the shop, but with a few spare minutes a day for the last few weeks I've managed to put together a paper template, cut out the pieces from some older scrap steel siding. No galvy that I've seen, and it was rusting through in places, but I put it through a burn pile just to be safe. BLO blackened a piece to see if I liked the contrast from the black and brass, which I do, and am nearing a dry run to be sure it will all fit together. So far the holes line up *fingers crossed*. Next on the list is to make the tip of the beak out of some spare brass sheet I had from a class last year and to make the ~100 brass rivets out of a bunch of 1/4 inch long pieces of 16 gauge brass wire to put it together. I also need to get some "cooling" herbs to stuff in the beak to protect me from the miasma. Oh and I found out with a bit of web-fu on sizing rivets that the diameter of the rivet shank should be somewhere between the thickness of the thickest piece in the grip and 3x the grip (grip= total thickness of the pieces being riveted together) I hadn't seen it mentioned yet on IFI so I figured I'd throw it out there. Hmm, I'll post a picture when I figure out how, I reduced the size to 278kb and it still won't load.
  10. That's wonderful news. Glad to hear your doing better
  11. Thanks. I appreciate the support. It might be a few days for the next instalment. I've got something bigger planned, I just have to get the template right with paper before I put it on metal.
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