Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc

Friend of mine who is a local blacksmith found this 5x5 square stock for me at a junkyard and it's about 4ft. Long. I bought it off him for 10 bucks and has alot more rebound than my railroad track and I was wondering what would be the best way to mount this? Upright like a post anvil?or horizontal? and weld some legs to it? I asked him and he said it's really personal preference but he is not sure. He has never used a post anvil or anything like what is pictured as an anvil and he didn't want to really tell me anything wrong. So I'm asking

I wanted a stand that would offer maxium stability while at the same time offering flotation on softer footing.. I had a design change and is when I made it into the blackwidow.. it has accesory shoes for additions like a foot hammer, tong rack, extra stakes basically a 2" receiver with lock down bolts.. The part that touches the ground is concave so it only touches on the outer edge all the way around.. it is height adjustable by slipping in wood or steel plates depending on what a person has an hand..

Just got this anvil from my dad to use. Need to anchor it to something. the picture is a bit bad the shadowing makes the face look akward from this pic but its actually very clean / flat

I picked up this Factory made Anvil stand a couple days ago and I should have it in my possession on Monday. Its base is 14" X 15", the top is 11 1/2" X 12 1/2", its 14 3/4" tall and 3/4" thick with reinforced corners.. it last had a 250 lb. Fisher on it and is almost a perfect fit for my 290 lb. Peter Wright... JT

This is where it stands so far. The anvil is a slim 15 pounds, while the stand, with hollow legs at present, weighs 73 pounds. I have lots of space around it for tool hangers, etc., but that can happen later.

Hello, Just starting out in blacksmithing. Putting things together. Got a hold a a couple forklift tines, and a section of .5 wall steel pipe. Trying to figure out how to hold the tine in the upright position inside the pipe section. I am in the process of cutting the tine so I am left with a 2"x5"x25" section to use as a post anvils for knife making. The pipe section is 5.75id x 18" tall, no base yet. Any suggestion on how to go about mounting this anvil for use? Weld steel plate to bottom of pipe? attach to concrete floor? or use something in-between floor and anvil base, like wood? Not sure how high to make the top of the post anvil? I would li…

Hi all Just brought this home the other day and looking forward to wiring off the paint and rust to see what it is. I would say the weight is around 180lb. Any suggestions? Tom.

Hello. I'm new. I've done a ton of reading on here, elsewhere, watched youtube videos, etc. My NCtool 77lb anvil arrives shortly, and I want to build a stand for it. I'm considering strapping the 4x4's vertically to make the stand....but a little background. I live in a neighborhood where I like my neighbors and don't want to tick them off too much. What can I do to best deaden the sound as much as possible? Some sort of rubber pad under the anvil, then secure it to the 4x4's firmly? Is there another simpler stand I should attempt to make with 4x4's? Thank you

my good old stump finally outlived its usefulness as it was slightly too high and wobbeled so i decided to make a new stand out of 1/4 plate. I went with a european style sand filled box with a small modification ( i added a through hole in the base on 1 side just the right size to fit my floor jack so i can pick it up and move it when i need to. ). Ive only forged on it once so far but i seem to be getting more hit outa my peddinghaus than i used to and it dosent wiggle anymore. Enjoy

Hope this is posted in the correct place! Since I'm waiting on parts for the rest of the projects I have started, I decided to throw a anvil stand together for Mr duddly! Had a old piece of 1 1/4 plate I found buried wile bull dozing, it's been hanging around my shop for Years. Pretty glad I kept the rusty slab. There was a fair amount of cussing getting it cut. Ran out of acetylene with 4" left. Being me I couldn't just wait. Way to big to fit in my band saw or is it???? Lol

Hello all! For your consideration, here is the the blueprint for my Rail Road Track anvil. I am posting this here, one to help find any mistakes in the blueprint and two just in case someone is looking for an idea. Now, before we get back into which way is the proper way to mount a rail, I have two pieces of rail this is for my horizontal mount. The vertical mount design is coming soon.Notes: The 3x4 and 4x4 will be glued together like a butcher block before the 2x4 and 3x4 crowns are added The staggering of 3x4 and 4x4 allow for more surface contact with each board. The 8 lag bolts are to bolt the four 6" 3x4's to the top and bottom This desi…

Will welding a stand to an anvil cause any issues to the anvil? Picked up these 2 Peter Wrights and the smaller 130lb. is welded to the stand. Plan on using the 152lb. until I find a larger shop anvil but couldn't pass the pair for the price. The welded anvil is much quieter and I'll leave it welded, adding a brace or 2, if its not an issue otherwise I'll cut it off. Never used any other stand than a stump and chain so this is beyond my limited experience. Doesn't seem like it would be an issue but I don't know, I do like how quiet it is though.

Finally got the chance to pick up the 1" plates for my new RR Rail Anvil stand and finished putting it together this afternoon. I'll probably add some hammer holsters but for now its ready to go. I cut the bottom plate into the large upright to transfer some of the hammer blow as was suggested and also put a layer of silicone under the plate to reduce the ringing and help save my ears (again as was suggested). Unfortunately I did not receive the track plate that I was suppose to get so I just made some steel clasps and bolted them in to hold the rail in place. Not sure what I will do with the top plate yet but doe now it adds weight to the whole unit. I also drilled …

Hey everybody! I recently aquired my first anvil it's a 104 pound beauty with a little bit of cold chisel damage on the face. Rebound is good and ring is minimal due to its cast iron construction which is fantastic due to my close proximity to neighbours. I've been told that this anvil is a fisher but I've had trouble finding any defining markings. There are some on the side but they're pretty illegible. I apologize for the lack of better pictures I'm posting from the break room at work which unfortunately is not blacksmith related lol. I'll post better pictures later. If anybody has some insight as to what make this is it would be greatly appreciated! I also was won…

I recently finished my RR track anvil just curious what would make the best base and it still be movable around my garage ?

So after my post about R.R. Rail anvils and reading even more about using the rail as a post anvil I decided to go with the post method and now need to build a stand. I set out this morning to design a stand. The first picture (below) is my concept #1 which would require drilling the flange of the rail for mounting. This would be a more permanent set up. After a rather lengthy brainstorming session with our very own king of chill Frosty I worked out a second design with the words "why do it if you don't need too" still in my ear. This one is much simpler to build and allows for a quick change rotation of the rail itself so that both ends can be modified for different a…

So I have a 183# Peter Wright that I am in the tedious process of restoring and am in need of anvil stand advice. I do not have a supply of hardwood logs here in Atlanta and really don't have the money to build one out of 6x6 posts or out of steel. I do have several 21" diameter (layed flat) cable spools. I could build them up to the 31" I need with 2x4s. What do y'all think? Will that hold for awhile until I am able to get a proper base?

I, recently, bought a striking anvil (13 1/2" long, 4 7/8" wide, and 1 7/8" thick with a 1" by 1" tool hole) and am trying to come up with an idea for a base upon which to mount the anvil face. I contacted a local steel company and told them I was looking for a 16" long, 7" wide, and 4" thick piece of steel. They must have misunderstood my material wants. They gave me a price of $580.08. Anybody have any ideas? I can arrange for a 1" by 1" hole to be put in the base. I'm looking for something sturdy, something I can weld the top piece to the base, and can weld on some legs. Suggestions sought.

I got this 2" x 20" x 20" block a while ago and just finished up a stand for it tonight. Made from scrap wood and old bed frame angle iron. The next step is to put some different radiuses into one of the edges so I can stand it up and use it as a die anvil. Eventually I'd like to make a few different sized holes through the face for drifting and some shapes in the other edges too. I guess I need to invest in an angle grinder now...

Anyone have a photo, current or historical of what a swage block stand most likely would have looked like in a busy 1930's era shop? I know that there would have been a lot of variation--looking for ideas. This is just basic research so I can build something for the Local Ag museum to hold the swage block they have in a manner to help explain it's use. I'd like to be "authentic" to the era portrayed if that is even an issue. Not sure whether that means a good stump or fancier stand designed to match the block's size. The shop was a fairly busy larger welding/fabrication/smith shop active from the teens to the 70's, although the later years were mostly tractor repai…

Finally got my chainsaw out and whittled an anvil stand for my little Trenton. It's a chunk from a maple log that's been lying out side my shop for a while. Long enough to develop a bit of spalting. Just have to bolt the anvil down and I'm... well, finish the forge press, and I'm...uh tune the forge burner, and then I'm rea... tweak the forge stand and THEN I'm ready to go! Unless I've forgotten something?

For anyone one who remembers I was going to use an I-beam for an anvil but then found a giant pin from some sort of heavy machinery. I have finally finished making the stand and I wanted to show it off because I worked hard on it and it took me a while to drill out the hole for it.

Ok.. was going to make an anvil stand and wanted to double check my logic, before I made this... Steel Square 8 x 8 x .25 thickness. 2 x ---> 5/8 Inch Thick plates. Top/Bottom. Should these plates be thicker? (will be bolted into the ground) The anvil weight will be right around 250 pounds. I was going to place support gussets under the plate on the anvil side. The support column should I fill this with sand..or keep it hollow..thought I read this somewhere.

I am just wondering if you like a clean anvil stand or if you prefer rings or some other form of hanging tools and hammers on your anvil stand i made a new stand for my main anvil and am tring to deside if I want tool holders on it. stand is 1/4" plate and filled with 3 70lb bags of ram packed S mortar (dry). like the clean lines and look with no tools hanging on it, but don't like the tools on the floor around it. Thoughts?? On another note Dick with Reflinghaus gives me a hard time about having the only new reflinghaus he has seen that someone took all the factory paint off of. I think it looks better naked.

I haven't heard that one before but folk have all kinds of reasons to explain why their preferred method is best. I know a number of farriers and the ones with the worst joints are the ones with the worst hammering techniques regardless of the stands. Farriers tend to work fast you don't want the horse standing there waiting while you fool around, an impatient horse can retire you with one jerk of a leg. You want to get in and out without rushing. Holding the hammer in a hard grip will cause joint damage with time, more certainly than laying your thumb on the handle. A loose grip that lets the hammer rebound off the anvil without jolting you takes care of most joint …