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Found 18 results

  1. I found this 5” square stock that’s about 16” long at the scrap yard for $40 I was trying to figure out how to anchor it. I am going in between setting it in concrete or making a wooden stand and welding on some angle iron to secure it. any suggestions would be a great help!
  2. I took a couple of hours this afternoon to built a stand for my railroad track anvil. It is my first one I’ve ever built so it’s not top notch but it hasn’t fallen apart yet and it works pretty well. What do u guys think?
  3. I took a couple of hours this afternoon to built a stand for my railroad track anvil. It is my first one I’ve ever built so it’s not top notch but it hasn’t fallen apart yet and it works pretty well. What do u guys think?
  4. I am new at this and wanted to add forging capabilities to my metal shop so I decided to start small and work my way up from a soup can forge. Any and all recommendations are appreciated and if I am doing something wrong I always like to know. The soup can is lined with some kao-wool I got from a local pottery store, they did not stock any refractories, rigidizers, or products like plistix or itc 100 however the gentleman kindly advised me of a mix of fireclay with sodium silicate and water. My main concern was stopping the degradation of the kaowool which is evidently a heath problem. I don't have a lot of pictures of the building of the first forge because it was actually really quick and I also think I combined multiple plans. I used a short fatter soup can and drilled 2 holes in the side for mounting to a piece of stock that I had bent a 90 degree bend into and a slightly larger hole than the half inch nipple I use to hold the burner at about 2 o'clock when looking into the can. I lined the inside with 1 inch of kaowool on the bottom and sides using the seam of the side to allow the burner to come into the chamber tucked into the cloth. After I had the can bolted to the stand and the liner in place I mixed the clay, sodium silicate and water to a chocolate milk consistency and poured onto the fabric in a very thin layer which was aided by the thin viscosity of the mix. I took my mappro torch and with the lightest flame setting and dried the surface of the clay then put the torch in the burner port and heated it up to essentially what you hopefully see in my picture. To avoid flames coming out the mouth of the can I have to run the torch on its pretty much lowest setting but It still will get a nail glowing hot in a minute or less. My conclusion from this little can forge is I love working with it but I wanted to be able to work larger stock. So I got working on another project the box forge I added some extra features I thought I would like but I didn't know how to account for the difference in volumes of chambers. I made the case out of 20 and 18 gauge sheet, made a door, handmade the crude hinges and made a base with a white firebrick which I later changed to the lighter style. I have problems with losing too much heat and am pretty sure I would need to upgrade to a real burner setup. Any advice on next steps would be greatly appreciated P.s. that hunk of ash will possibly be my anvil stand
  5. I was recently perusing my 14th edition copy of Machinery's Handbook (dated 1953) and came across the following quote in the chapter on mounting anvils (when discussing mounting anvils on cast iron or hardwood stands): "An anvil should not be strapped rigidly to its foundation, as this checks the vibration which tends to keep the face free from scales, and renders a high-grade wrought-iron anvil little better than one made of cast iron. When a wooden block is used under the anvil, it is necessary to drive in a few spikes to keep the anvil in place, but these should be so placed that they do not bear upon or bind against the corners" Thought that was interesting as it pretty much goes directly against conventional modern wisdom regarding anvil mounting on stands. Of course they also advocate getting an anvil of 300# for machine blacksmithing "if of this weight or heavier, it will not move around while in use or need to be strapped to its block". I guess if you are lucky enough to have a shop anvil of that kind of weight you are all set. Lots of good stuff in this book, still being published in it's 30th edition. You can freely download a copy an older version than I have in hardcover (1914 edition) from Google Books here: http://www.woodworkslibrary.com/repository/machinery_handbook_for_machine_shop_and_drafting_room_1914.pdf which has the same section as well as info on making tongs, heat treating...
  6. my good old stump finally outlived its usefulness as it was slightly too high and wobbeled so i decided to make a new stand out of 1/4 plate. I went with a european style sand filled box with a small modification ( i added a through hole in the base on 1 side just the right size to fit my floor jack so i can pick it up and move it when i need to. ). Ive only forged on it once so far but i seem to be getting more hit outa my peddinghaus than i used to and it dosent wiggle anymore. Enjoy
  7. Hi, I'm a total beginner building up my tools. I've just acquired my first anvil: A 100lbs John Brooks, and now it needs a stand to mount it on. The stand is no biggie - I have lots of ideas for that. I also have a 100 lb piece of steel plate (approx 2" thick x 10" x 18") - it's construction steel, probably 44W or 50W. I'm wondering if I should use that plate in my anvil stand. So the plate would sit on top of the anvil stand, and the anvil would sit on top of the plate. I'd metal-strap the anvil down to the stand (pulling it tight against the plate). In my head, I'm 50/50 on whether this would help or not. The anvil does ring less when it's sitting on the plate, compared to sitting on my concrete floor. Part B of this question is: If using the steel plate on the anvil stand is not helpful, might it be useful on it's own for something? Should I build a separate stand for it? It is, at the moment, extremely flat with very sharp edges. At a minimum, I could see myself using it as a surface to hot-cut against. I realize it'll get beaten up - I don't have any other use for it, and I got it specifically to act as an anvil. Thanks in advance!
  8. Got a little time today to start a stand for my new anvil. Plan on using this both inside and out so incorporated in some legs that are adjustable so can get it close to level wherever it decides to rest. Didn't have much time today so this is a work in progress. Started out with a 1" steel plate for the base. The legs are made from 2-1/2" x 1/4" square tube. The feet are made from 4" SCH 80 pipe that have 1-1/8" Grade 8 bolts for the adjustment. The bolts are welded to a piece of 1/2" plate with the nut concealed up inside of the 2-1/2" tube, The 4" pipe has a 1/2" plate welded with a 1-17/16" hole punched into it and then welded to one end of the 4" pipe with a nut welded on the top side. There is enough bolt so there is 4" of adjustment so the stand can be used for different height anvils to get the correct working height. The lowest setting I have it would be about 31" where 33" is about the perfect height for me. Still have to come up with a attachment system that will work for the Fisher and the Fawcett anvils I have. There will be a hole through the 1" plate that will be inline with the pritchell hole and the hardy hole. Only got about 3 hours into it today so will post some pictures when it receives more attention. Plan on leaving drilling holes in the plate for hammers and other tools. The anvil that is setting on there in the picture is an 80lb Fisher and though I didn't weigh the stand, I'm guessing it is a little more than the weight of the Fisher.
  9. Tonight I went out to get some pizza for me and the missus. I stopped at one of our favorite local eateries where I know the owner and people working there. He comes out of the kitchen and says, "Oh, there you are, we need to talk." Now the last time someone said that to me I was in big trouble. But I know I couldn't be this time, I thought. A little background here might be in order. I have had, with out a doubt, the busiest summer blacksmithing I've ever had. I made a mistake. I made something someone really liked. A camp tripod. Next thing I knew I was making a bunch of them. Then I made someone else a cowboy cook set. Next thing I knew I was making a bunch of them. THEN, I made someone a campfire grate out of expanded metal with folding legs. Next think I knew I was making a bunch of them. I made extras of everything just in case. I can't keep the durn things in stock. Now I'm a hobby guy. I just do it for the fun of it. I never wanted this to be a business. On the other hand I'm having a dandy time doing it. Ok back to the story. So I go into the back room with him into the office and he shows me a chafing dish and rack that's used to hold them. He wants a chafing dish rack with grape leaves and a bunch of grapes in each corner. Ok I understand, it will be hefty, one 1" x 1/8" flat bar. Square riveted corners. Legs of course. Two on each side. And a small tray to set the burners on. All of this seems easy enough. I've not done anything like this before but I'll sure getter done. I think I have the basic layout figured out. I could use help with the artistic elements. I've never done grape leaves and grapes. There are some things I can't do. I can't weld. I don't have a welder. But I rivet pretty well. I could even do copper rivets. I had thought that would be a nice accent color against the black iron. I've read the forum and I believe the easiest way for me to do the leaves is to use 14 ga. mild steel for the leaves. And I'm thinking about raising or dishing or chasing what ever the term is the grape bunches. This needs to look good but not be so heavy it can't be lifted by a normal person. I have seen the welded grape bunches and using forged grapes or ball bearings welded into bunches may be somewhat on the heavy side. I suppose I should also mention this is for Festival Fairbanks, in two weeks. Erp. :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink:
  10. Purchased a 45kg/100 lb. Vulcan Anvil. Looks good and great size for the newbie. Needs the blue removed and then I can see what is underneath. Read about electrolysis for cleaning, interesting. For a Stand, I will be making one similar to Daniel.85's 2x12 stand, a great design.
  11. I recently acquired a fisher #4 vise(6-1/4" jaws, 120lbs) and built a new home for it. I used 3/4" thick plate for the top and bottom, 12x12 & 12x18, the legs are 3x4x1/4" tube filled with sand, all that comes to about 230lbs and right about 350lbs with the vise. Cutting the legs on the Grizz. "Milling" 1/2" Holes Marking holes for the top plate. This is my first big welding project(big for me anyway) my little mig is a little under powered so I did 3 passes, seemed to hold up well and I didn't think my welds were too terrible. "Mind the puddle not the spark" is what I had to keep telling myself. I would have used the stick welder but I have to get a new cord for it. Just over 50lbs of sand. The paint is a walnut color, it was still a bit wet and in the sunlight its more brown but in the shop its a nice dark brown not quite black, goes well with the old tools. The leg had a crappy plate welded to it already so I made a better one. Though I was too much of a noob to remember when I drilled all the holes, these were supposed to line up with threaded holes in the base but I accidently drilled them 1/2" instead of 27/64". These pins hold it really well since there was a lot of down force on the leg anyway after bolting the vise to the top plate. HEAVY and ready to anchor to the floor! There are 3 holes to use for anchoring, 2 in front and 1 you cant see that is in between the 2 back legs. I wanted a stand that would protect the screws as well, this seems to work.
  12. This is an anvil that is in the weld shop at one of the power plants I do Fire Protection work at. I'd just like to know: 1- Is it a Fisher? it didn't have the Fisher name as far as I could tell.(If not, then what is it?) 2- Is the 220 on the one foot the weight 3- An idea of the manufacture date 4- Any other info http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38053-weight-maybe/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38052-marking-under-horn/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38051-logo/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38050-anvil-and-stand/
  13. Hey guys, I'm new and in need of advice. I'd like to build an anvil stump since a cliff carroll is out of my price range at the moment. The hangup is I have to haul the anvil and stand in and out of my truck several times a day, and I'm a bit of a little person, so weight is a real issue. Any lower weight designs out there? If it helps I have a 100lb dovetail Scott
  14. Here is the stump build for the anvil I made in another thread: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/31084-my-first-anvil-build-looking-for-advice/ It's not quite done, but I was able to get most of it done in a couple weeknights with the help of some awesome, old chainsaws i inherited from my Grandfather. Here is approximately what it will look like. On the near side I carved a foot hole so I can stand really close and try to save my already bad back. And the far side was left uncut so I can drill some holes for tool holders. These are the two saws I used and the only two power tools used to make the stump. The big boy is a late 1950s McCulloch 35A, which needed a minor rebuild and was used to chop the three sides. The smaller one is a McCulloch Mini Mac and I used that for all the detail work. Here is a closeup of my foot hole design, it also shows how I carved three "legs" into the base. With those legs, the stump sits perfectly flat on the ground, no rocking whatsoever. Its pretty stout. Sweet litterbox in the background, huh? I have seen a few posts of people using routers mounted on sleighs to flatten their anvil stumps, I went with the less sophisticated route, it also only took about 30 minutes start to finish and it is almost perfectly flat. Here is basically how I did it: First cut the base to a tripod so it sits flat on the ground, make sure it is where you want it because after you level the face, any adjustments to the feet will throw off the level. Next get a straight edge or level and lay it across the face at various places/angles. In each placement mark the pivot point of the straight edge. That is the high spot. I just put a squiggle with a sharpie to mark all the high spots. Knock down all the high spots until the face is flat. Then proceed to leveling (you can do this the same time as the flattening step). I lay the chainsaw down as flat as I can and slide it across the face as depicted below, using very quick passes, maybe 2-3 seconds to skim across the whole thing. This brings down one side or the other, but keeps the whole thing flat. It takes a lot of passes, but at 3 seconds a piece you can do 20 passes in a minute (which is enough to take off probably 1/4-1/2 inch across the whole face). Repeat the whole process until you get it as flat and as level as you want. No building frames, sleds, etc. Just start up the chainsaw and have a straight edge and sharpie on hand. I'll post some more pictures as I finish the last details. The key to working with a chainsaw for shaping, which I'm sure everyone would learn very quickly is never to stop moving the chainsaw, if you do it bites in and cuts a deep slot. Don't even use the weight of the chainsaw, maybe only 1/4-1/2 the weight, it is amazing how quickly it will skim the surface down if you aren't careful. One question, anyone have recommendations for preserving the wood? It is still pretty wet and I don't want to let it crack too badly. I was thinking about just coating the whole thing with boiled linseed oil or a nice wood stain.
  15. Just finished up one of my first projects, put together a drinking horn stand as a Christmas present for a friend of mine. Made out of 1/4" mild steel and finished with beeswax. Fairly simple but very fun to make, also looks really nice sitting on the shelf when not in use. :D
  16. Hi all, Just thought I'd share some photos of the anvil stand that I finished today. I started this project about 3 weeks ago, but got called away on a work trip. This weekend I finally managed to finish it off. Here it is: The top is a 12" x 15" x 1 1/2" steel plate. I got it from a local steel fabricator for cheap. It was originally a long strip, 48" long by 12" wide, but they cut it into 3 pieces for $25. So one day I can build two more anvil stands with the other two pieces. The legs are 2" x 5" rectangular tube with 1/4" wall thickness. The angle of the legs (~9 degrees) is such that all vertical force applied at the top of the stand is transmitted directly down into the floor. If the legs were angled out more, then vertical forces would try to spread the legs apart, giving the stand some springiness. Using wide pipe stock, and keeping the leg angle so that the tops of the legs vertically overlap with the leg bottoms, eliminates the springiness. The feet are 7 1/2" long pieces of 3" x 1/2" strap. I put holes in the feet in case one day I want to permanently fix the stand in my shop. The welding was done using a 120V Lincoln Electric Migpak 140 with 0.035" flux core wire. Taking some cues from forum topics and chat discussions here on IFI, I didn't bolt the anvil to the stand. The 1" x 1/4" steel straps keep it from rotating or walking during hammering. So far it seems the anvil is heavy enough that it does not need to be bolted down. If it turns out it does need to, then it will be an easy modification. Thanks in particular to TechnicusJoe for fruitful discussions. Last night when I seated the anvil inside the straps, I found that it rocked back and forth unacceptably. The anvil base was not perfectly flat. So I flipped over the anvil, and using another piece of plate as a flat reference, I ground down the base to make it flat. About 30 minutes of careful grinding eliminated the rocking motion completely. To make the fit even more snug, I cut a piece of rubber floor mat and put it between the anvil and the stand. This anvil (a 217# Wilkinsons) does not have a very loud ring to begin with, but the rubber seemed to make it a bit quieter nonetheless. Thanks for looking. Comments and criticisms welcomed! All the best Markus
  17. The Peddinghaus I got is SO NICE and SO NEW I decided it needed it's own custom dedicated brand new stand, so I have been taking evenings and fabricating one. Kept it s the horn protrudes over the edge for extra free space when bending big things around it, plus extra stability over the 2 legs, Added a little tray for holding things like punches, lube can, chisels and rivets and stuff, with a hammer ring and a bending fork/tool holder out the other end. I would have liked to use something more substantial then 1/4" plate but that's what I had, hence the gusset, and figured I would ridgidize the whole thing with gussets all over. I want to add more tooling rings, and some made special for specific tools. I need to add some wood or perhaps some G10 slabs under the anvil to cushion things and also adjust the height perfectly, then figure out how I want to anchor it to the stand so as to be easily removed for transport, I want to do something cool and mechanical.
  18. Imounted my 200lb peter wright today, the log has been drying for a year and a half, i sunk it two and a half feet deep and fastened the anvil down with 4 rr spikes (1 on each corner) I got to use it and wow! It makes a hughr differance I have used it befor but I have never mounted an anvil on a buried stump and i dont think i will ever mount 1 out of the ground if i can swing it.
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