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About jlpservicesinc

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Rutland, MA
  • Interests
    anvil making, utilitarian tools, hardware, tooling, knife and sword making. Martial arts tools especially Ninjutsu.. Industrial forged items..

    Nin video link.. : https://youtu.be/yfQaqeF9MaA

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  1. Thanks.. I love demonstrating and teaching. it was a ton of fun.. thanks it was fun. More fun than i thought it was going to be. Thanks Les.
  2. Alex, nice and bright.. Is the forge shop a completely different building?
  3. I was able to fit the footage together from this past years Fitchburg forge in.. i used my Action camera (Drift Innovations Ghost S)
  4. Thanks Alex.. Benona, did you cut them out with a bandsaw or grinder and cutoff wheel and then forge?
  5. Bluerooster.. That is a great anvil.. I'd stand it on end and bury it in a stump too. I'm envious.. Nice find. 4" deep would be a good depth and then wedges could be used if needed.
  6. Thanks I had seen the 119 but usually the Fishers are marked on the foot so wasn't sure.. This is the first one i have seen with the inscription just below the face.. I wonder if that was a show room model or something.. Fisher anvil man should be by to help you with info. Thanks You too.
  7. That is cool.. Nice job, I didn't see any weight? My only suggestion is to be gentle with it and try not to hit the face with the hammer. A welcomed treasure for sure.
  8. you don't need a drift to make bottle openers.. it can speed up the process but as long as you have a round punch or a slotting or slitting punch you could just open up the hole to get to the correct size.. The making of and enlarging a hole is a basic skill and one well worth understanding. I in 40+ years of smithing have never made a bottle opener.. LOL..
  9. I love the artist nature of the forge. Looks like it is out of the Victorian age with the graceful curves. Are the pipes that connect to the forge pan just welded into the plate or is the plate threaded as well?
  10. Preheat is ideal, also bead matching for thickness.. In other words proper wet in, bead profile and such. if the metal is 1/2" thick, the bead height should be 1/2" thick.. I'm not explaining very well, but ideally the bead toes need to be the same thickness and width as the parent metal as is the varying sizes.. 1/4 is that thick 1/4" but the 1/2" leg is 1/2".. When welding thicker materials the prep and weld bead layouts need more attention anyhow, On my 500amp mig machine I can cover a pretty large variety of metal thicknesses in one pass, but with a smaller unit multi pass welds need be done.
  11. Hans, that is so cool.. I just looked at your photos again. Nice work and I love the forge setup.
  12. Great work right.. I had been doing some work on the old tent or what have you at a demo.. I got flak in the paper as someone had taken a photo of the table and I had a couple of pairs of vise grips and an electric drill on the table.. Someone made the joke of how much were the vice grips.. Someone I knew of course. And the photo taker heard the whole conversation.
  13. Thomas you could always extend you friends outwards. I'm looking for a few items.. Of course I'd say to document the find but I know how you feel about cameras.