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Bic White out correction markers.. They have liquid in them and you shake them which stirs the paint.. Then you push down which activates (opens) the tip and you squeeze the tube.. Pretty accurate.. This mark sticks around for a heat or 2 depending on how hot the steel gets the hotter the less it sticks around.. Only problem is it has to be applied cold or at least this is how I do it.. I also use brass which will rub off to form a mark if needed to mark while hot or cold. Accurate and easy to see when the metal is hot.. Who ever makes the current brass rulers in the USA its a worn product even brand new.. A brass ruler was a product that would get used up as its sharp edge would be scratched onto the measured length thus creating the mark.. Who every copied an old one which was worn never accounted for how it was used.. Then there are silver or gold artistry pencils.. Prismacolor Verithin Colored Pencils, Metallic Silver is one such brand.. I use the Marcal ones but these are not water resistant.. Never tried the Prismacolor ones.. but will next.. Sharpies also come in silver.. These leave a pretty thick line though and are good for general marking vs precision.. And for the greatest accuracy. a carbide tipped scribe..

I just used a coulpe of smallish cold chisels to raise a lip then filed the lip off once I was deep enough in and hardened them.. Drawn to a bronze.. These are hot use only so will last my life time and then some.. Sometimes today I want to make another one as I can do better now with the initials making them cleaner but more than likely never will.. This has stamped 1000's of items..

Also to add, Unless it's cold short.. And then its dealt with the same way..:)

I use 2 differentsized makers mark.. same design one just bigger than the other.. If you are making your own. The best thing to do is make the female mold from the first stamp.. this way you can make them more quickly next go around.. Just shape to fill the mold and drive it home....

Part of the fun for myself is figuring out how to make it workable. Dont give up.. coal and time experimenting can be fun... Besides it for me is a crucial learning time.. I've never really learned anything that is easy...

Ben, great hammer.. Please don't tell me your going to put this on a shelf somewhere.. I'm a firm believer in using quality tools... I love you can also see the hardening line (hamon) in the hammer faces.. Did your Dad really like the hammer as well? He does nice work.. Do you engrave also? That is something I always wanted to get into but I'm more of a Cow in the china shop looking for that last bit of grain spilled on the floor.. Das, nice stamp.. Your going to start marking your work? Have you been?

Aus, if you are working with wrought iron then you just have to adapt to the beast you are working.. Or move onto another project.. Anytime you are working it.. You are mechanically refining it.. Watching how you forge it becomes more important vs steel which doesn't care if you are actually twisting the metal while forging it.. This is a common problem I see with many people.. They don't even realize they are doing it..

very nice.. Congrats.. This past weekend there was an auction for a passed away smith .. 200kg southern german went for 2100.00.. I would have bid on it had the hardie hole not been 1.5".. I refuse to by an anvil with a hole larger than 1" now.. Though my 368 HB has 1.375"..

Love to see any and all.. Pictures and the million words thing.. I"ve been loving all the different takes on items being made here so lots of great inspirations..

Thomas.. Dude you gotta show some pictures.. Maybe others would want to steal your idea.. Hint, hint.. Motomike, I'm gonna use your design if that is ok.. I like how you offset the eyes also.. Good work is good work and thanks for showing it.. There have been so many people on here that their work just gets better and better.. It's amazing to see and watch as you guys grow.. It's awesome..

I agree totally.. Hammers, tongs, teaching. is where the money is at locally.. Well within 300 miles.. We have a few companies here that supply the same items you mention.. It then becomes a fabrication/welding shop vs blacksmithing and combining the 2 can be lucrative for some.. I really have no interest forseeable future.. This coming year the shop will be up for sure so at that point there will be many options.. The farrier business is booming with just more and more expansion all the time.. Doesn't leave much time for anything else.. I certainly don't have the drive I did 20 years ago.. I still like to make "Trade" smith items and well the knives and swords as well as other neat items might be another anvenue.. But whos to say.. In the USA there are still a few upper classmen doing exactly the small shop thing and doing ok.. The potential for that kind of thing is gone for me now.. Had I stuck with it back in 2004 as my business was expanding with works in Boston and other major cities in art type things could have paid off.. It wasn't meant to be and the here and now is all there is.. Have a great day.. Getting cold here.. 28F right now.. Last demo of the year this coming weekend.. Hope for warmer weather..

Nice Motomike.. I'd be happy to have a bracket like that to hang my sledges on.. Well done and I like the design..

Turn the piece as you work.. this will keep the piece even without the bending and having to straighten it.. Nice job and his sledge handling from what I could see is good.. Well done..

Work at making the transition from straight to the taper crisp with no washing out between the 2.. if you mark the bar for the taper.. Start your taper at the mark.. Nice work and great to see you coming along.

it will loosen up with use.. I end up tig welding extra material to any hardie tool I make as you lose a little when making them.. I like the tool to sit snuggly and the bolt or wedge method works very well.. The wedge method being the best.. I can't wait to get the new shop up as then I'll be making a ton of tooling. Enough for 5 work stations.. Fun, fun, fun..