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No, on the oil pump there are 3 ports.. 2 inlets and 1 bypass.. Typically the 1 inlet is used and the fuel oil is circulated within the pump and fed to the nozzle only.. Only 1 line is used.. with a bypass setup, the main inlet and bypass port are used and 2 lines are used.. An intake line which put oil to the nozzle and the bypass line which returns unused fuel back to the tank.. (much like modern fuel injection used in cars and such) Because the fuel is returned to the tank instead of circulated within the pump itself like with the 1 intake line setup, there is a much h

Frosty. It was full, then emptied, then came back up.. It all happened when I switched from single inlet to bypass.. With the single inlet the flow was a lot less.. With the bypass it flows a lot more fuel.. If it was air trapped then bleeding it would be a thing, but there was no air leaks to begin with.. I've never seen it before.. But then again, I've never had a setup like this. the best explanation I can come up with is was pointed out before of the pump is sucking vs pressurized.. It's about 1/2" from the top now, ran it for 2 hrs. Apple duck.. That was funny..

I love the fact you took your hammer to work with you.. That shows dedication.. I often toted a piece I was working on around with me to stare at and think about the process..

very nice.

Dave, thanks for all your help.. Not sure.. I haven't actually taken the filter apart.. I usually do that kind of thing to see whats inside, but not this time.. I unscrewed the bowl and turned the filter to see if it would loosen and then put it all back together. Sadly I just found a waterblock one for 5.00 cheaper.. Go figure.. It is interesting how the filter was full when it was just normal, then over about 2 hours it went down to the level I questioned and then today after 3 hrs it creeped up just just below the upper cap.. I got nothing.. LOL.. We

Ok so today the filter filled up all within about 1/4" from the top.. I wasn't concerned with the filter flow,, I matched all the components for what I thought with research should work.. Was more of a "Why" moment.. so there is the updated stack, got some of the sheet metal work installed. I ran it for 4 hrs today while I worked on it.. Still have the new brain to install.. Tomorrow I'll see about finishing the burner shroud and then look at getting the after burner split into 2, 12" diameter connection points for the vent hose I ordered..

Filter specs: Goldenrod® general purpose fuel tank filter for farm, construction, and industrial applications For use with common fuels including regular and unleaded gasoline, diesel fuel, gasohol, ethanol, and various fuel oils; related additives including methyl, ethyl, and isopropyl alcohol; and biodiesel blends up to 20% Replaceable element removes microscopic particles of contaminants (rust, sand, dirt, scale, and lint) as small as 10 microns See-Thru translucent polymer bowl allows for visual monitoring of fuel flow, is alcohol and impact resistant, and

Which is why I was thinking the ID of the line might be on the smallish size.. Going up to 3/8" will increase flow rate.. Nice thing is, it's easy enough to try it's just time.. Unthread a few fittings, put in the new fittings, Solder up the new fittings for pickup tube install, cut new hose to length and there you have it. Easy peasy.. I ordered the ducting pipe today installed the double wall pipe for the chimney.. I installed an elbow at the bottom so I can pivot it down near the heater for moving it around. I also dug out the panels to look at getting the sheet meta

Dave F. comment got me thinking about pressure vs vacuum.. And it made complete sense with Dave's help.. Pressure can fill the filter full but vacuum has to create enough negative pressure before it will suck.. It's interesting to me because I would think that once there is enough vacuum that the fluid would remain at that height, if there is enough supply volume. (hence why I think the line is a little to small).. The fuel is not syphoning out of the filter when not in use.. Even when full, it just goes down bit by bit eventually ending up at that exact level each time.

that is a great question.. I'd say at least 50 times. Think Damascus . With how thick you started out you will have plenty of metal thickness. The key is not to burn it.. Burning it will do more damage then 100 welding attempts I think and the problem is one might not even notice till they go for heat treatment or get to the grinding stage..

Here is a little video.. Old Crew.. Your skill set, sets you apart.. Lotta hard work to get there though.. Warmer weather folks certainly do take a hit when it becomes unseasonal.. Last year we had a few days that were -14F and I was out there working at 730am.. it's the snow that makes my work miserable. The heater is just temporay till I can resume work in the shop.. Of course spring is here.. Why didn't I think about this at the beginning of winter.. duh.. IF this works as well as it seems it will, I will be making a portable oil burner heater too..

Just about done with the heater.. Started to make the afterburner.. Brain should be in tomorrow. I also ordered some insulated pipe so that will free up how close to an object it can be. the fuel filter won't fill up.. It stays at the same height.. does this mean the supply line is to small? I'm using 1/4" ID but can step up to 3/8" pretty easy.

here's one with me in the demo shop with doors fully opened.. Was forging a 5lbs wrought iron hammer.. Here is from yesterday and does not include windchill.. Was 0F when I got up out doing horses was fun.

Drill, tap and bolt could be an option.. Just faster to weld it.. the arms are going to slide out from under the heater and be about 3ft long.. Just a little support for when the plenum is on.. Maybe help to extend it another 3 ft past the rest..

Broken foot vs Liza chasing it around.. LOL..