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Did you check out the "How to make a flatter video"..

Soybean oil does not degrade cotton? What about going rancid before it polymerizes? Does it dry as fast as linenseed oil.. (spelt wrong on purpose with a chuckle)..

Looks pretty good.. Is this a set hammer or flatter? Flatters usually have a larger face than center mass so the distribute the force more evenly across the whole material thus leveling the surface vs forging it. Smoothing as it were.. A set hammer on the other hand has the face centric with the body so it will drive into a corner and isolate the force in creating a shoulder or seam, etc, etc.. it could be used for flatting, but not typically unless the surface is that uneven.. This picture is of a flatter recently forged, if you search or reference on flatter this is more of the image you will see.. In my shop I'd call what you made a set. So languages being what they are.. I'm just checking to see if in deed what you meant was a flatter vs set hammer... Next "how to" video will be on making a set hammer......

Ethan the blacksmith - that is a mighty fine anvil.. I love, love, love having a crown to the face.. How do you like it so far? I don't know the reasoning behind dropping the tail like that.. I keep hoping someone can explain it to me.. Yeah, the point of the main face, got it.. But why not just keep it level with the rest of the face.. Really nice looking anvil.. I often think it might be the French work differently at their anvils.. I do agree from the samples I have seen they are worn the same between them all with the corners still being intact with little chipping.. hardeness of face? or the only other thing is they work differently.. I would love to see a historical time line of this style anvil.. Well really all anvils and MFG's especially in Europe and even into Russia, china and other areas that they made anvils.. Mouse hole started when? Ok, so let me get this straight... You added a horn too? Were they both broken off?

10F outside right now.. At 1023pm 6-8" of frozen snow, sleet..

That is some serious build up.. What did you use for a cap rod on top of the wrought iron? V out to what material? Hardface after adding heel section..

Great video.. Love it. thanks..

I have an old stump from 1847 that is nearly as good as the day it was made.. It has burns around the base of the anvil but was made out of composite wood.. My finger is pointing to the weld line for the face.. Wrought iron with steel face.. nearly 3/4" thick.. there is about 1/8" or little more at the bottom of the dovetails.. Yes, exactly.. These tools were left in for the blades being made and they are quick to change out.. The wedging in of the tool also means that it is solidly mounted just like in a power hammer.. or any dovetail mounted items.. This uses a slim wedge to finish the tightening.. Anytime you use a swage with a shank you will find the item bounces around (welcome to the wonderful world of rebound)... LOL.. With this anvil and tooling it's all work.. Most cutlers anvils are Big.. 300lbs and up.. Also if you guys notice there are no feet... This is supposed to be sunk into a stump or work bench or cast iron holder fairly tightly, pretty much up to the bottom or the numerals.. The taper of the base then will lock the anvil into the stump as dirt, sand, and scale fall in between.. Thus acting as a wedge.. vibration will drive the dirt, dust in tightly.. Frosty: I came up with the same numbers.. I'm pretty happy with it.. Nice but it looks to me like the person did a lot of fixing on that bad boy.. Looks like the heel was knocked off and someone added the tail piece.. Looks pretty good. . Have you filed tested the heel?

Anti freeze???? There are several different variety.. Automotive variety's, Welding varieties.. JHCC, I love that.. I gotta get me a few..

Here is my latest addition to the stable.. W Taylor Cutlers anvil 2-2-12..

Excellent.. Freezing rain, and super cold here today.. 0 by tonight.. Looking forwards to your knife.. The easy way to do it.. Is you start out with large knot.. Open.. then you grab a come-along and a 2 wire pullers or a solid loop.. in other words some way to grab both ends of the knot.. With a good even heat on the knot.. Pull it closed.. This method is by far the fastest and most accurate why I found.. the only problems is the metal has got to be where you want it to start because once you start pulling you'll have a hard time stopping to re position any of the rods..

John3 nice anvil and stand.. Glued joints?

You bet... I've wanted one for awhile so this is a neat addition to the stable.. Yes, it was.. Small CL world.. It is in pretty good shape.. 2 of the holes are filled in.. I'll get the stuff out eventually.. In the last picture you can see the 2 holes that are filled.. More than likely they were worn and then the anvil went into retirement..

I just picked this up today.. Wish I knew where it came from... W. Taylor is what I can make out and 2-2-12 for weight.. 650.00 is what I paid.. Face is is maybe 5/8-3/4" thick.. narrower at the face than at the bottom.. Handling holes under horn, heel and bottom..

I like the jig setup.. Nicely done JHCC.. Very nice indeedie..