jlpservicesinc

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About jlpservicesinc

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  • Website URL
    https://goo.gl/photos/jNR8MRdz5TSU3Nm47

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Rutland, MA
  • Interests
    anvil making, utilitarian tools, hardware, tooling, knife and sword making. Martial arts tools especially Ninjutsu.. Industrial forged items..

    Nin video link.. : https://youtu.be/yfQaqeF9MaA

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  1. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Mudman love the bracket.. JHCC.. Well done.. Judson is a great guy... I love you are making the rounds to all the smiths.. You are on a journeymans journey of sorts.. Very cool.. You will have a museum of sorts with items forged from many.. Very cool.. He had heat in his shop right..
  2. jlpservicesinc

    Flat twist Blacksmith basket..

    Thanks.. I"m very happy with it also.. It was tough.. Technically the most difficult forging I have done in a very long time.. It helped me pull up many things long lost forgotten.. Very, very comfortable..
  3. Mudman. The idea with any of the baskets is they look tricky.. The only tricky thing about this one is getting the disk centered so it looks even when the handle is still or if turned.. All the rest is very easy.. Even the forge welds from a welding skills aspect are pretty easy.. The lap weld is the only tough one newer smiths will have when the handle and shaft get placed together and this is just a simple drop weld.. The spacer is very easy to do and as long as the heat is brought up slowly so everything the (disk and 1 rod) then it is retained and held in place for the weld vs having to position it which for everyone is the largest difficulty for a weld. Once this 1 rod and disk is welded you can move the disk some to where it belongs and then weld the opposite side from the first weld.. Then everything is held and easy to do. All of the videos work with information or skill set from a previous video.. They may seem random but they are not.. They always run from easier to more difficult with building blocks.. Many get confused and think we are making an object or item.. ( making a bolt, or tongs, or a handle).. Truth is we are making a skill set applicable every where.. Thanks 1forgeur
  4. jlpservicesinc

    Show me your anvil stands

    Anvil I like it.. Do you tighten the rods/nuts once the anvil is placed into the recess? Thus pinching it between the 2 halves?
  5. This is video #2 in the Blacksmith Twist or Basket handle series..
  6. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    That is cool.. Thanks for the info.. For shoeing I use a stall jack that is maybe 36" tall.. For real forging it's only 31.. I find this give me full range of motion with the hammer... I'm a little curiours of your firepot design? You run coal or charcoal? I thought I saw charcoal in another picture..
  7. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Charles, how is the new forge working out? Love the stand.. Why lower? and how much compared to the traditional knuckle height.. Just curious nothing more..
  8. jlpservicesinc

    Started Power Hammer Project

    Looking forwards to more progress.. Thanks for posting back..
  9. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Personally I do exactly what you are doing.. I sneak up on it very slowly.. the immediate area just behind the horn and a smidge (widest flat bar I will work is the distance) from the hardie hole gets about a 3/16" radius.. But this also gets snuck up on.. It just gets there quicker and I start with just over 1/8" radius right away.. (of course a project will come in and I'll goof it by a cold shut so this helps me move a little faster) I'm very conservative as I know what radius has to be where, but I hate to make a mistake and take to much which is easy to do with a grinder.. I have hand diamond flat sharpeners I use for removing the corners. the Peddinghaus was hard enough the file would skate. I suggest taking the time but the area that is needed right away to be done I'm a little more likely to remove it quicker.. The rest of the corners can take awhile to get where I like them.. It's been nearing 2 years I am still applying radius to areas of the anvil I find I am using more.. .
  10. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Second Anvils suggestion.. They work great and offer an amazing savings in gas/O2 if left going.. Or the time in striking and adjusting the flame again.. (sure it only takes a second or 2 but this time adds up)..
  11. Take advise from many, use this information to figure out "who to" listen to more often.. Experience can weed out a lot of advise as good or bad.. But don't set it in stone till you have tried it at least 3 times with 10 or more being even better.. Don't settle on this as the only information there is.. Keep looking.. Don't take on to large of project or skill set starting out.. it can become overwhelming.. Success breeds success..
  12. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    If you look at the edge of the anvil there is a chamfer.. i would just round off the high spots on both corners of the chamfers.. i would not round it out completely or I should say I would not remove any more material than needed to make the chamfers less sharp.. If the anvil did not come with the chamfer than it would have been easier to just round the corners up and adjust in use.. But for some reason the peddinghaus had chamfers also and it meant having to round out as that sharp little step in the chamfer can cause problems vs a nice rounded corner..
  13. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Nice work.. Are you loving the new anvil? I do see you have not dressed your corners.. They were beveled at the factory but may I suggest you round them off some..
  14. jlpservicesinc

    Show me your shop!

    just bolting down the anvil properly will eliminate nearly all the ring.. Ring is vibration and anvils vibrate a lot like a big tuning fork.. I've tried lag bolts in the past and they always loosened on me.. I used some 8" ones once and they also loosened.. I then switched over to the mountings I had shown somewhere else.. While most call it overkill I found it to be the best way..
  15. jlpservicesinc

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Howdy Doug. It's 2000.00 for a 275lbs anvil.. The Holland is a little more money for a larger anvil... I specialize in colonial hardware and such and find I prefer a narrower face.. Ideally the larger Refflinghaus is what will be in the shop.. The 275 is plenty hard, has great rebound if you believe in such things (95-98% rebound) and so far has been wonderful.. Would I recommend it to others... For sure.. But because of the work I do the wider face makes the flat section of the heel needed for the work.. I love a double horn anvil.. What I dislike about it is the width of the face and the edges at the face to horn which is typical of the northern German style of anvil.. I prefer a southern style.. Thanks.. I get more and more social media contacts and traffic.. I feel badly because I have 5-8 conversation going on at 1 time.. I then get contacted on another platform and the person brings something up and I can not for the life of me remember who said what or who is who.. Without a face to face.. its so hard to keep it all straight..