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About VaughnT

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Northwest SC
  • Interests
    Shooting, reading, woodworking, more reading, metal working, photography, etc.

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  1. VaughnT

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Had to do some emergency surgery on my reclining chair. Dang thing broke right at the dogleg in the bar, so you can imagine how fun that was to try and get into position for a simple tack. Looks like the bar was cracked a little, maybe straight from the factory, and the crack just kept growing until critical mass was hit. Finished up another dish before working on the recliner. I love the "night sky" finish on these things. The pebbled texture is nice, but the dark colors really make the whole thing pop, in my estimation.
  2. VaughnT

    Perun Anvils???

    Perun is a top-shelf maker of blacksmithing kit. As Marc1 notes, Poland, Hungary, Russia, Estonia.... these places still have a very strong blacksmith presence and the people still appreciate hand-forged ironwork. Perun is a supplier of tooling to this market and wouldn't live long in that environment if they weren't making good stuff that you could rely on. That said, it'd be very expensive to get one over here to the US.
  3. Al, good info! No harm meant with my earlier comments. I appreciate the solid knowledge you're sharing, wood or metal! Got three complete tap sets in the mail the other day. Minty fresh, never used Taper, Plug and Bottom for all three! I'm still hunting for an old-school set of the 1/2-12BSW, but there's no hurry. The hunt is half the fun -- even if it's for something I'll probably never use! Already got a small project in mind that'll require my 3/8-16 tap and die. Not sure it'll work, but I'm sure it'll be fun to try.
  4. VaughnT

    XXL coil springs, usefull ?

    I would love to have a few dozen of those big springs. Right off the bat, they make great stools! Seriously, folks love those heavy industrial springs for stools. They're rigid, they look cool, they have some heft to them.... Figure out way to mount a nice seat and you could sell them pretty quickly to boutique interior decorator types. For me, I'd use one for in the shop just so I'd have a nice place to sit and take a break. I'd do a test piece to see what kind of quench medium they like. If you can get them for free.... they'd be great for smaller hammers if you like making those kinds of things. Of course, it's all about being able to heat-treat them properly so they'll perform like you want. They might be a water-quench steel since they're mass-produced and a lot of companies are going that route because it's easier to clean up. Hard to say, though. Definitely think about bar stools and foot rests. Furniture that has an "industrial" look is pretty popular and demands a very high price.
  5. It is supposed to be about taps and dies -- hence the title of the thread. The funny part is that a moderator just hit me with a "demerit" for spamming, yet here are all these people spamming away, cluttering up a thread with nonsensical comments that have absolutely nothing to do with the subject matter being discussed. This is the kind of stuff that makes the search function here even less functional. Since you all want to talk about woodworking on an ironworking forum, let's at least try to keep it within the of the subject being discussed in the thread. Here's a very nice video on making wooden threads -- with information I'd never heard before. Love the bubbles! If you want to talk about tenons in wood furniture, please feel free to do so in another thread. If you're curious about how far back in time someone's magazine collection goes... again, feel free to start a line of discussion around magazine subscriptions.
  6. VaughnT

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Another rosette finished. I wasn't sure where I was going with this, so I decided to keep it simple. Just 2" square, they're a great size for a whole slew of projects! The blanks are better than an 1/8" thick I'm sure. Maybe .130" -- I forgot to measure them when I was in the shop. The nice thing about all that metal is that you can really work it to create a lot of depth to the pieces.
  7. VaughnT

    What did you do in the shop today?

    I've had the world's worst luck with acquiring a fly press. Twice someone has said they had one they'd part with for a decent price... and then they simply stop communicating. Even went so far as to email with a company in England that sells used fly presses and has that right in the name of their website. A few emails back and forth... and then nothing. I'm looking to spend two grand with the guy, and he just drops off the radar. One might almost think I'm being given a sign from above!
  8. Very nice work, Grumpy. Looking at those openers, my very first thought was that they looked like neck ties. It was only all this talk about weapons that made me see them as possible blades, and even then my first reaction was "Cool, those would be great Kiradashi for woodworkers!" Either way you cut it, that's some nice work and you could market them to cabinet makers or businessmen.
  9. VaughnT

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Oooh, how I wish I had a fly press! That will hopefully happen early next year. Until then....
  10. VaughnT

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Thank you. Found some pics of the blanks as they come from Rich. Very neat and clean, and perfectly matched to the next. Thank you. I had thought to just use the chased lines as guides for making deeper lines when the part was hot, but thought I'd keep this one as simple as possible. Doing the chasing while cold makes it a lot easier to handle things, placing the lines exactly where I want them without worrying about double-stamping, missing the mark, etc. I found that chasing a deep groove at the base of the little leaf made them a lot easier to bend when hot, and made the overall curl far more natural because you didn't have a flat start in things. I was almost worried I might snap them off if I worked them to a black heat, so I kept things nice and toasty!
  11. VaughnT

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Thank you. I had these cut for me by Rich Baker over at Plank-n-Ingot. As I understand it, they're plasma cut. I tried to cut some out by hand, but it was so time-consuming! I'd have had to charge $200 for each rosette, and I'd likely have gone insane before I was done with the second one! :O Thank you. They're very fun to make.
  12. VaughnT

    It followed me home

    You can most definitely buy brand new A33, flutagon, today. Brent Bailey uses it regularly and just posted a video on youtube where he gives the contact info for a guy selling it by the foot for folks that want to try it, but can't afford a full stick of it. My score for the day..... a gorgeous vintage tap-n-die set. Just look at that magnificent color case hardening! How could you not want something like this in your life? That 1/2-12 die isn't a misprint. That's a very old thread style called the British Whitworth Standard (BSW) and is claimed to be the first standardized thread type. The set is missing one key set screw that I hope to replace soon. And then I have to start hunting down sets of taps to go with them. While I have the taper taps for all of them, I'd really like to get the plug and bottom taps to complete things. I'll likely never ever need them, but sure as not, I'll have something come up where they'll be needed if I don't have them on hand!
  13. Thank you for the very kind words, horse. Compare this beautiful machining and color case hardening to what is produced today...... And, honestly, you can get vintage gear for as cheap or cheaper than you can buy new stuff. When I was looking, I found plenty of brand new sets in garish plastic cases, undoubtedly made in some factory overseas. They often had a larger selection of taps and dies in the kits, but they also had a complete lack of soul. They looked cheap and chintzy, especially in those ugly injection-molded cases. I wish you well on your journey down this particular rabbit hole. How do you tell which dies are for chasing and which are for cutting new? If it's not the outer perimeter style, what then gives it away? How do you use the tapered taps to "make multiple size threads"?? I'm missing something there. If you drill the hole to the size proper for the thread you need, what's the benefit of a tapered tap? Even in a punched hole, there's only so much you can do because the threaded hole will always end up with an hourglass cross-section. As such, I'd think it's a pretty weak joint since the bolt is only hanging on a very thin thread right at the waist of the hourglass.
  14. I've lately gotten on a threading kick. Of course, I've never needed much in the way of threading gear since I could likely find a bolt and nut, or use a rivet instead. As such, my collection of taps, dies and wrenches is lacking. Watching a vid from Adam Booth, he noted that round dies are for creating new threads while the octagonal dies are only supposed to be used for chasing existing threads to clean up damaged areas. I had never heard of this before and it got me wondering about what else I might not know. On the vintage set that I just picked up, all the dies are stampled "1/32" in addition to the expected numbers. Why? What is this denoting? One set that I passed on was interesting because I recall Peter Ross using something similar in a video. These tapered taps are supposedly for blacksmiths because it allowed you to thread a nut even though the whole might not have been punched perfectly to size. You thread down from one side, then flip the blank over and thread in from the other side. I don't totally understand what's happening, but it did get me wondering. Were tapered taps commonly used back in the day? How rare were drills that punching the hole was the best option... yet they could make such nice tapered taps? Or were the tapered taps used for something else entirely? Whether I'd ever use something like this or not, I love the designs of the old kit. The inlet wood, soaked through with ages of oil, grease and grime... the sweeping lines on the tap handles, often with color case hardening still swirling around them.... it's hard trying to NOT collect the blasted things! So where do you stand on taps and dies? What sizes do you find most practical? Got a favorite thread pitch? For most of what I do, 1/4-20 and 3/8-16 will cover me just fine. I don't see a lot of need for the larger sizes, but there have been a few instance where I wished I had a 1/2" or 5/8" die.