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About VaughnT

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/15/2010

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  • Location
    Northwest SC
  • Interests
    Shooting, reading, woodworking, more reading, metal working, photography, etc.

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  1. Always wanted to make something on a genuine viking anvil stone......
  2. I see this all the time.... and I lay a good bit of the blame at the feet of experienced smiths that always say the newbies should make their own tongs because it's such a great learning experience. I usually don't even comment on those posts anymore. I figure if someone can't bother researching on their own, and "expert" smiths are going to counsel making tools when the person can't even make a decent s-hook, well, who am I to get in the middle of that mess? Seems to me folks are terrified of offending anyone and will offer kudos and other positive affirmations instead of calling a spade a spade. I can't count the number of times I've seen someone post a picture of absolute garbage.... and everyone in the audience applauds, cheering them on, telling them how good it is for their level of experience, etc. Any excuse to not come across as saying something even remotely "impolite". And that stuff stays on the internet forever. Other people do research and see that junk is applauded and even expected, and that posting pictures of the mangled mess will get them all kinds of pats on the back. So, the cycle repeats, building and building.
  3. Take that handle to the wire wheel on your bench grinder and give it a thorough going over to even out the surface and remove any polyurethane coating that might be on it. Then paint the bare wood with some boiled linseed oil that's been thinned down a lot with paint thinner or mineral spirits. This will allow the oil to soak into the wood real easy and makes for a fast-drying finish that looks incredibly good with forged iron tools. All of my tools get the thinned BLO treatment, and they look like tools you'd expect in a smith's shop!
  4. LIkewise, friend. That is a truly stellar design! I don't know what's better, the joint or how you spooned the hooks so they won't rub on a jacket lining! Really impressive all the way around!
  5. Finished her and have her twin still to be put together. A single rivet ties everything tight.
  6. I would definitely use the ammo can as a quench tank. The sealing lid is great for containing the oil. I use a small one and it's never failed me yet. The biggest problem with all these "I can use this" forges is that they greatly limit your design. Why bother with an automatic limiter right from the outset? Why make a forge that can only be used for knife blades when you know, sure as the sun rises, that you're going to be interested in doing other stuff. Your wife/girlfriend is going to ask you to make something. You'll get the idea to make your mom something nice for christmas. It's just going to happen. Get used to the notion because you can't escape it. With some sheet metal and self-tapping screws, you can easily make a shell that's big enough to give you plenty of room for a scroll of decent size. No welding needed. Then you line it with some koawool, paint that with the refractory, install a nice T-Rex burner..... easy as pie.
  7. Tried my hand at some vertical up last night. It didn't go anything like what you see in the videos you see on the internet! Laying flat on the table wasn't so bad, but still far from what I'd like to see. Both are with 1/8 7018 and the machine set at 125. The vertical up is one 1/8" wall angle iron and 3/4" square bar. I was having a heck of a time with the rod sticking as I first tried to strike the arc. Real bear of a time getting everything just right, and on the V-up, as soon as the arc got started halfway decent, the metal was running like a river. I tried pointing the rod upwards to push the puddle ahead a bit, but, well, you can see how masterful my work came out. I was kind of proud that I managed to make a right turn and continue the bead to the end. Aggravating no matter which direction I look at it. But, I've got a grinder and some new disks that will get it looking halfway respectable.
  8. Reverse-twisting jig for 3/4" bar. The one upright slides freely so you can adjust for different projects.
  9. Stopped by the Ace hardware and picked up two dozen more nails. Now I'll be able to keep pace with all you guys!
  10. I would dearly love to have some of those! I've been looking for just such a thing to make into a traveling anvil. Personally, I would have stood the hammer on end like a Mjolnir and used the big face much like a Popov anvil you see here at the 23:09 mark - The face is domed, but it's like a squished ball with a flat spot in the middle. Very practical design and it has the look that's just perfect for doing demos where folks expect you to be doing it the "old fashioned way".
  11. One thing I noticed is that you're flattening the area where you put the holes. This is good for punching the hole through, but also detracts a hair from the possibilities. I've been forging in a divot with a 1/2" round-nose punch, then doing the through-hole for the screw. With the divot there, you get a bit more visual interest in the piece and a dome-head screw looks really nice in them. Even with a phillips-head screw, it sits below the surface in a way that makes it look like a knot or bud. Of course, I throw all the screws in the fire and darken them first. Bronze would look great by itself, standing out a bit from the waxed steel. Also, since Australia doesn't have the big nails, it might be better to save at least one so you have a before-n-after type set up. It'd make a really neat storyboard to show folks how much you can get out of a single nail. You might consider making your own "nails" by upsetting the end of a 13" piece of 3/8" stock. As you're already doing things to the pointed end, it might be nice to do a flower-bud on the head of the nail. I'll forge one out later today and post some pics. They're easy as snot to make and go really good if you're going to do leaves on the other end.
  12. I had the same problem till I stopped in at an Ace Hardware. They didn't have the 12" in stock, but they were happy to order the non-galvy "bright finish" for me. And when I showed them what I was doing with them..... they said they'd order a bunch just to keep them in stock for me! I use their 6", 8", 10" and 12" bright finish nails for making hooks. The 12" version gives you plenty of room to play with, but sometimes you just want the hook to look like the nail it began life as.
  13. That's actually the type of cut-off I learned on. The idea was that the lugs, as you note, keep you from dinging the cutting area but also serves to keep your metal from flying around because you accidentally cut too far. They work great because you can set the depth to whatever you like and know you'll always have just the right amount of meat left to twist the bar free.
  14. Great photos, JHCC. Those boots look like you definitely don't want to get kicked by the guy wearing them!!