VaughnT

Members
  • Content count

    3,299
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

1 Follower

About VaughnT

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/15/2010

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Northwest SC
  • Interests
    Shooting, reading, woodworking, more reading, metal working, photography, etc.

Recent Profile Visitors

13,011 profile views
  1. Very nice design. I'm always looking for unique ways to incorporate different techniques into a project just to keep things fresh. The last fork I made, i used tenoned lugs like you did and it's holding up very well. No looseness at all, and I've used it to bend about 100 5/8" railroad spikes into hooks. I wouldn't worry at all about a peened tenon working loose over the ages. Initially, I just peened them to hold everything in place while I welded them permanently, but the things are rock solid and I've never seen the need to weld them. I need a fork for some smaller stock, so you can expect your notion to be borrowed! Thank you for the inspiring design!
  2. I've seen them in all kinds of shapes, and a lot of them are complex carvings that must have taken some real time to make. I don't think they serve a purpose other than decoration. Those guys were master builders and I just can't see the spires needing many tie rods holding the sides in.
  3. You can print out the image on regular typing paper and size it whatever size you like. Then use spray-on adhesive to lock it to the metal of your choice. A Star-in-Circle design is probably the best just from a safety standpoint. And pretty easy to do if you use a drill to get rid of most of the triangle before you take a cold chisel and file to clean things up. Getting a pin soldered onto the back wouldn't be too hard, but think about..... again.... you gotta think about what kids will do with a pin. Of course, a small magnet presents a chocking hazard, or could end up in an ear or nose if it doesn't get lost in the first five minutes.
  4. A cold chisel and wire wheel on your bench grinder will go a long way. You can even carve in their initials if you like. Some time back, I made up this "badge" for Star Trek fan. All done cold. All you have to do is clean up the edges with a file to round them off nicely. It's "life size" was was meant to also work as a scraper for one of those ferro rods campers like to use for starting fires. Very thin steel, similar to a saw blade, because you don't need much weight. While I drilled a hole in it, he opted to use a neodymiam magnet to hold it on his shirt in true Star Trek style. Just remember that kids and sharp points don't go together. Even though this isn't sharp, I can see some eyes getting poked with the thing! If I can help further, just holler.
  5. Got a couple of anniversary dishes forged, textured and carved. Always fun when someone wants to use my work as part of their anniversary celebration!
  6. Use some old pallets to make a surround that looks "distressed" if that fits in with your motif. It's a whole lot cheaper than getting a new wife.
  7. Actually lost track of one of the very first wall hooks I made. This was back in the day when I was trying to be "artistic" but didn't have a lick of sense. Turns out, I had nailed it to the wall beside the bathroom to hang a candle holder for when the power goes out. Dark hallway, shadows, never actually using that candle holder when the power goes out..... I totally forgot it was there until a few weeks back when I turned the hallway light on to better search for something else I had misplaced. Imagine my surprise!
  8. Even better, in my opinion..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3rjjpuhCLI I'd love to get one of those 'rattle stones'. I have a friend over there and she hasn't been able to find one for me. Really makes you appreciate how much our ancestors had to go through to get us where we are today!
  9. Bubba, I'm far from being an educated welder, so it's entirely likely that your way is the better way. I used the rods I had and that I'm familiar with. I've tried some thinner 6013 rods once or twice and it was an absolute nightmare experience. I can't seem to figure out what settings to put on the welder to get that stuff to run right, so I stick with what I know. Porosity? Probably. Could be my technique, the rods, the settings on the welder, or a combination of all three. Getting those three things to line up right..... that's the hard part! Got the adjustable square all painted and looking good. The Super Stump got flipped and I spent a few minutes going over the working face with the angle grinder. I'm going to need to weld up the big stamp down in the bottom of the depression, but she's looking pretty good with the 60-grit finish.
  10. I don't get to do a lot of welding, so I'm always happy when I project comes along. In this case, I filled an old nitrogen tank with sand, oil and scraps of steel to make a nice heavy dishing stump. No idea how much it weighs right now, but I'm betting it's every bit of 300 pounds, if not more. The base plate is 1/8" mild steel I had cut just a hair undersize. The OD of the tank was about 9.125", so I figured having that little lip would give me a nice clean surface between the plate and the freshly cut end of the tank. I wasn't disappointed. Using 1/8" 7018 with my machine set around 116 amps, I went around the perimeter as good as I could manage. Short bead, then go to the opposite side and run another short bead. Once it was tied down at four points, it was just a matter of filling it in. I still have to grind all the beads down so the stump will sit nicely on the floor, and I might have to do some fill-in work if I see any problems. Overall, though, I think it's water-tight and I won't have to worry about the oil eventually leaking out! Interestingly, I noted that whenever I get into long beads like this, I seem to be better going from right to left rather than left to right. No idea why that is, but.... Oh, and to get warmed up a little bit, I tacked together this neat little adjust able angle contraption I picked up. It comes as a kit and all the pieces are laser-cut. All you have to do is tack it at a few points and then bolt the two pieces together. When I saw it, I thought it would come in very handy when I'm building things, acting as something of a third-hand. Clamp one side to the table and the other side to whatever I need held. Being adjustable, I can swing it to any angle and then lock it tight.
  11. I've never understood wrapping feet of chain around an anvil. It doesn't mute the ring because the horn and the heel are the parts that ring. If you put a small magnet on the underside of those parts, the ring dies quickly and the anvil is bearable to be around. Tons of chain will add weight and keep people from considering the theft of your anvil..... for a few minutes. Said chain also gets in the way when you're bending over the edge of the anvil. I just made three brackets for a customer and bent all three of them over the far edge. The 4" leg going down the side of the anvil would have hit on a lot of the chain wraps I see people doing - and I've got a pretty big anvil. Does it look good? Honestly, I don't think so. While I agree that it's a subjective thing, I think it's far more attractive to use finely crafted spikes, staples, fences or other methods that actually showcase your abilities. Even if nobody but you ever sees it, you get to look at it every day and be inspired. Of all the ways to keep an anvil on the stump, chromed or galvanized chain, with store-bought bolts and such, is about as garish as it gets. I understand beginners have to start somewhere, but I encourage folks to think outside the box, try new and interesting things, and dress it up to the best of your ability. If you start with shiny chain and bolts, plan to do something better after you've got some forging time under your belt. It's those little details that make a tremendous difference.
  12. I do like the idea of doing the combo stand with your vise. Kovko Kova4 has a similar set up on his youtube channel and it looks pretty handy. Since you already have a "proper" anvil and are just using this one as a traveler or odd-job type anvil, I'd go with as minimal a base as you can get. As Thomas pointed out, the flat base is great on a flat concrete floor, but anything that's even a little uneven will cause aggravating instability. I like that you're going for something other than the bucket of cement. Classing up your stand will be a good way to showcase your artistic side to anyone that sees the thing, and you never know how that will impact their thinking of you. Even if nobody ever sees it, just having good-looking equipment in your shop is motivating and invigorating. It's good for the soul.
  13. The Tractor Supply near me sells 7014 rods for a few bucks cheaper than their 7018 rods, so I picked some up test. I don't know why they worked so much better than the 7018s I normally use, but they were pretty dang dreamy. I'm just a hobby welder on the best of days, but those 14's made me look almost competent!
  14. Worst case scenario, you can pretty much be sure that it'd have enough power to press thin sheet metal. You could set up some dies to help make acanthus leaves, rosettes and such things. It's not much, but it might be a whole lot better than trying to do them all by hand.