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About Frosty

  • Rank
    The improbable Curmudgeon

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Interests
    Metal work, people, puns and other bad jokes.


  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Biography
    Real name's Jerry Frost. I've lived in Alaska for 37 years. Been a hobby smith since I was maybe 10.
  • Interests
    metal working of all kinds leaning towards blacksmithing.
  • Occupation
    Retired equipment operator
  1. Eric: The diameter of the outlet holes isn't too important, Grant Sarver used straws. I would make the change but I'd need to test for the right number and I have a really stable naturally aspirated design now. It ain't broke I'm leavin it be. Crayons are a good diameter, cheap and easy to remove. Air fuel velocity is strictly a function of volume passing through the total area of the outlets in an amount of time. For the purposes of discussion I'll use water pumps. A 2" dia. outlet on a "trash pump" will deliver about 200gl/minute. If you wished to put 200gl./min through a 1" outlet it would have to move 4x as fast and take IIRC 8x the pressure. This why a pumper fire truck delivering through a hose and nozzle can kill people, literally tear them apart. With a gun burner you can adjust the flow rate & velocity by adjusting the blower. It's no different in a gun supplied ribbon than any other gun burner. The baffle I referred to is the one in the plenum of John's ribbon. It's "Plenum" made up of a piece of sq. steel tubing with one side cut off and the ends capped. The fuel/air is supplied through a pipe nipple or coupler welded to the plenum. Then the plenum is embedded into a castable refractory nozzle block, the outlets are made with crayons as cores. The difuser I was referring to in John's burner is a metal barrier welded on the inside of the plenum in front of the coupler. This is to prevent the air fuel from being blown directly into the outlet holes in front of it making the pressure more uniform in the whole volume of the plenum. My thinking is he has it too close to the inlet so it takes a stronger blower to force the flow past it. The one ribbon burner I made with the inlet in line with the outlets has it's difuser closer to the outlet holes in the ribbon block and stretching about 2" along the plenum. The flames it produces are reasonably even but I didn't experiment with it further after I tried mounting the inlet at 90* to the outlet nozzles. Those have no difuser at all and the difference in flame length is insignificant. The multiple outlet burners I made are different from John's in detail only. I used his basic design and construction methods with minor adaptations. Frosty The Lucky.
  2. Wooden mallet on a wood block will bend, straighten adjust hot steel without damaging the surface texture. I make my shop mallets from yard sale baseball bats. An unmodified bat is another perfect adjusting tool commonly called a "Whocker". Frosty The Lucky.
  3. Welcome aboard, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header yu might be surprised how many Iforge folk live within visiting distance. Just scale John's burners down to suit your needs. You don't need a blower with a high static pressure if you move the diffuser farther from the pipe inlet into the plenum. I made the NARB because I couldn't see a good reason for needing such high pressure and experimented using wood for the burner blocks till I found the balance that works. The balance you need to run low static pressure ribbon burners is enough outlets to let the air fuel flow easily but not so many the velocity of the air fuel drops below it's rate of propagation. The flame front moves faster than the air fuel and it burns back into the plenum. Anyway, you can scale a gun (blown) burner easily enough, use a smaller blower if necessary. Please keep us in the loop on your build I'll be watching and maybe of some help. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. Welcome aboard Boedie, glad to have you. Blow driers can be found at garage, yard, etc. sales for a couple bucks. Don't worry too much about blocking the flow it actually lowers the work the motor has to do, won't hurt a thing. Even a $2.00 yard sale blow drier puts out WAY too much air for a charcoal forge for most work. When you're looking for something the internet is only just so useful. The yellow pages and phone are a lot better hunting things down. If your best guess at who to call doesn't find someone who carries The Stuff! they'll probably know someone who does. Talking to people is a valuable skill. We love pictures. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Dom: It's called a "kick in the butt!" You are spending more time and effort justifying why you won't decide than it'd take to find a menial job and earn enough to buy the spiffyist forge made. You are right about one thing though, to quote you. "Blacksmiths can be doers or fretters or whatever they want to be. As long as they are passionate about it, I don't give a dime about the rest." I don't know anybody who'll give a dime for a passionate ditherer. Your choice, it's a free country. I'll leave you alone now unless you decide to do something. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. I have to agree, you are too modest by half. There's no doubt that's the best hatchet in the world, I've never seen finer. The only thing better than using a tool you made with your own hands is using one your Grandfather made with his own hands. The toy box is a dazzler. You have a couple lucky grandkids. Will you adopt me please? Frosty The Lucky.
  7. Afraid that link won't load for me either. Frosty The Lucky.
  8. Welcome aboard, glad to have you. That's a great touch mark, I wouldn't change it a bit. Nice anvil, have you radiused an edge? You need at least one edge radiused so you can set a shoulder without a sharp inner corner making a stress riser. Going to buy or build your forge? Frosty The Lucky.
  9. You're certainly right Mike. Choosing good enough is okay but it should never be an excuse to settle. I'm not sure how I'm going to go about it but you showed me pics of a T using a bell reducer flare that was making a near ideal flame. I'd have to be an idiot not to recognize when I'm wrong. Sometimes though we run across people with little or no shop skills and a T might be within their grasp. It sure as heck doesn't make it THE burner, just one that will get them working. A LOT of what I say is to simplify things to get them up and going. Once they're operational there is all the time in the world to perfect their skills and knowledge. I just wish there was a better off the shelf something than a plumbing T to make the things with. I'd jump on something as easy to adapt that was as or more efficient. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. Thanks for the still shots. I was cranky I'd just had to download over 100meg to see about 45 seconds of a dog doing not much interesting. Deb my wife is a trainer and we both get stuff from folk with questions. So, please don't think you shouldn't post videos to Iforge, they're just not helpful in some cases. The audio said a lot though. J is right, the mig tip is crooked, is the brass fitting loose? Recently I had to start using 1/4" flare couplers rather than my preference of 1/8" FPT - 1/4" flare fittings because the new batch has too large an ID to thread 1/4"-28 for mig tips. What I've discovered is the 1/4" flare fitting has an unthreaded lag before it hits the hex "nut". A 1"x3/4" T fitting is pretty darned thin where we're drilling and threading it. So thin the brass flare fitting moves when being tapped for the mig tip. I helped a club member make a T burner last Tuesday and he's having trouble tuning it too. I think there are two things going on here. #1 your jet isn't straight. #2 it's certainly too long as it is but you need to straighten it to tune it. Next time you remove it try putting a 3/8" flat washer between the fitting and the T and check if it's a little straighter. Mike has made me look at examples of T burners using bell reducers for a flare that are mking a near ideal flame and velocity. Just tune it with the flare you choose. I withdraw my statement about bell reducers being wrong. I was wrong. I apologize for being short in my last reply, not your fault. Frosty The Lucky.
  11. Dom: You've painted yourself into the corner of fussing over endless details till you just aren't going to get it done. Do YOU want to spend the money for a forge built by someone else? Having other people do for you costs. In more than money. Are you seriously asking US if it's a good option to buy and ship bricks across an international border? By now you SHOULD know what Mike and I think. Unfortunately you've convinced yourself building a forge is an insurmountable task. I'm not self help guru, watch Doctor Phil or something. Buying a forge for 4x what you could build one for is up to you. If you're so sure you just can't do it yourself YOU have left YOURSELF no choice. Honest, a few hundred bucks one way or the other for a piece of equipment you're going to use for a couple decades is truly insignificant. However convincing yourself you just can NOT overcome such minor problems will last you a lifetime. Blacksmiths are doers, not fretters. If you gotta fret over something fret about how far to draw a temper on a chisel or something usefull. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Oh come on Thomas, he said EVERYthing, not things. A 1D universe would be pretty boring. However, having a good sit down with Einstein would be a treat, I take exception with his statement that he "can't believe God would play dice with the universe." I've wanted to ask him why not? What's more Godlike than tossing a die at the beginning of the multiverses and watching the results. Heck he might even have something bet on the outcome. Frosty The Lucky.
  13. Doesn't anybody here have a Thread File? You only need to know the TPI, each thread file has 8 different TPI each. SAE or Metric are common tools. The problems found trying to chase threads using: triangular, half round, jewelery, etc. files are no issue with a thread file. #1 The teeth cut threads at the correct angle. #2 The right TPI is available. #3. It takes almost no skill to use so you don't need years of practice with files and precision work to make the threads right. I have two of Dad's thread files and the one I bought when I moved to Alaska. A quick websearch gets lots of hits, these are images. Cut it loose, draw file the remaining weld bead flush with the top of the threads and chase the threads with the Thread file. Do NOT grind anything first, the abrasives that are left in the parent stock will dull your files. Frosty The Lucky.
  14. The Billhook part wasn't that much a joke, I'd give it a try you may have stumbled onto your signature blade. As a hobbyist I've always thought it'd be nice to stumble onto something I liked making and sold well enough to help pay the way. Put it in the black was pure fantasy of course, I didn't want to work THAT hard. When you make a blade that doesn't turn out like you wanted, see what it's good for. Just because you had something else in mind doesn't mean the miss isn't a bull's eye on a different target. Ah heck Will. I appreciate the thought but there are a lot of wiser people post here every day and I'm not the only one saying that little thing. I've been hearing that since I can remember. "One thing at a time Butch," Dad said so often I got sick of hearing it. Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Naw, it's not a Kukri alright it should do for a bill hook though. Better luck next time. The problems you describe are basic blacksmithing and why I recommend a person learn blacksmithing before tackling bladesmithing. If your only aim is bladesmithing then learn with blade steels otherwise learn on things other than blades till you've developed proficiency at the anvil. It's always going to be harder climbing more than one learning curve. Frosty The Lucky.