Frosty

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About Frosty

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Interests
    Metal work, people, puns and other bad jokes.

Converted

  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Biography
    Real name's Jerry Frost. I've lived in Alaska for 37 years. Been a hobby smith since I was maybe 10.
  • Interests
    metal working of all kinds leaning towards blacksmithing.
  • Occupation
    Retired equipment operator
  1. I Googled, "C 360 malleability" and got nothing about bending directly by looking at the link headers. Reading some of the links I recognized and selected I'm linking this page as all I need to know. Bear in mind I've been working metal all my life and what I need to know might not be what YOU need to know, people working a shop that does this kind of thing should already know what C 360 requires but if not print this page and it should do. https://alloys.copper.org/alloy/C36000?referrer=facetedsearch Free machining means it's alloyed to let cutters make clean cuts with a minimum of special effort. The lead in the alloy prevents copper alloys from snagging and tearing under the cutter. Otherwise you have to use a cutter with a specially dressed edge to prevent rally gnarley rough cuts. This page says 1/2 hard bends fair. So if they have a powerful press brake and can bend it all the way in ONE movement it should be fine. It'll be hard as the dickens after the bend so trying to make the bend in two breakdowns will probably break it. ONE hard push should be fine. To be sure, print the page or copy the link and give it to the shop foreman or lead man on the job. If they work a lot of non ferrous they already know or can interpret the info correctly. Better than I can but I do know enough to look and from this info look deeper if necessary. Be careful with this stuff it contains lead so heating it will take care and proper ventilation. 800f to anneal and you can let it air cool, water stopping the anneal is more to let you go right back to work and not have to wait. YOU should NOT have to worry about annealing, the shop should be able to do it as part of the job. Knowing these things and how to do the job with the material at hand is why you're sending it to a professional job shop. However, it's good to have a handle on what to expect, if they break it it's THEIR dime, NOT yours. Make them do it right or give your money back if they screw it up. This is a really straight forward job. Frosty The Lucky.
  2. Gote: Glad you joined the discussion actively. I don't believe either of us were talking about how it should be done, just some basic principles. Everybody has to work to their strengths and defend their weaknesses to be successful no matter what the challenge. I'm partially disabled, got a wonky left eye and am not in nearly as good shape as I used to be so the way I work at the anvil is different. No secrets there, everybody's different. We used non backsmithing examples to describe how we stand at the anvil but just as examples of how balance works. I used the example I understood best because it was an ongoing topic on the mats. Believe me if you've ever practiced: judo, jujitsu, aikido, karate you know how essential maintaining control of your center is. I probably could have thought of a better description but stuck with what I knew best. The basic principle is where you place your center of balance and why. You can't be wobbling around, I like my feet a bit farther than shoulder width in a close front stance and address the anvil at a slight angle. But that's where I'm comfortable. If I'm doing heavier work I step back slightly and lean into the blows more but if I'm plannishing for a smooth texture I'll step in a little closer and use a lighter more controlled series of blows. I can't imagine using a back stance at the anvil, even if I were really pulling on a cheater bending a back stance wouldn't enter my imagination. Heck, this is the first time I've thought about it except to correct a student. Stability and controlling power is what a stance is about. I was more twitting Jenifer about smacking herself in the head. While I've never done that one I've scared myself pretty badly a couple times. Karate mat time is good for something other than protecting yourself in a fight, it makes effectively avoiding things coming at your face at high velocity reflexive. Luck comes into it too. Better still, don't miss and hit the anvil! It took me a couple read throughs to get what you meant by "flip" technique. I don't know if there is a "right" name for it, I call it "cracking the whip" or "rolling it." Every joint is a force multiplier so taking advantage of all the force that doesn't cost more muscle makes sense. I called the grip a "fencer's grip" because I modified the grip I learned in my one 30 min fencing lesson to a hammer. It takes more practice to learn good control but the advantages in power and isolating your joints form impact damage make the extra learning well worth the effort. Oh, the "Fencer's grip" also makes adjusting for reasonable differences in anvil height pretty reflexive. Sorry about getting off on such a side track about handling horses, I have some really REALLY good memories about horses and horse people. By now I'm sure you folk know what happens when I get off topic. I'm blaming the tree! That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Getting off on a bear trail is just John's grizzly sense of humor. Frosty The Lucky.
  3. Yes, my current shop forge is WAY too large and it's fragile, I've only ever lit all four burners a couple times. First to test it, in use only when my shop was crowded with guys making the 18" x 18" x 6" chamber roomy enough a bunch of beginners could work in the fire without hopelessly tangling their work. I've needed that much fire maybe twice in it's 15+ years. The other serious trip hazard is my first T burner forge and it's better than 21. It's double lined, 1" 8lb. Kaowool and 3/4" Pyramid Super, air set plastic refractory. It's ID is about 6.5" dia. X 12" and was heated by my first really successful 1" T. It was perfectly functional for a cylindrical forge and the Pyramid Super is an obsolete(sigh) phosphate bonded, high phosphate refractory with designed for a ammonia atmosphere at 4,200f working temp. With both ends wide open I had trouble turning that big gun burner down enough to keep from melting projects, especially thin sections. The old pipe forge isn't a bad forge it's just far from good. The shell is 10.5" Dia, x 5/16" wall structural casing. The insulation is too thin by half and the burner is 2x what should be in it. On the good side the flame face is literally bullet proof, I did so much welding in it I didn't have to flux welds just roll them on the floor once it was hot. The spilled flux was in a puddle about 1.5" wide I don't know how deep that ran front to back. You could just dip some up like it was honey and drizzle it on the weld joint. I made a rake and little scoop to clean it our when it started getting in the way but flux had zero effect on the refractory. The burner was like I say hard to turn down so it didn't just melt projects. That was a fun feature though, folk at the time were living with the myth you couldn't weld in a gasser, of course theirs were running so lean to get heat the stock scaled hopelessly before they got to welding heat. At a couple friendly hammer ins if whoever was taking it for a test drive got to talking and not watching his steel I'd casually reach around and turn up the psi to about 6 - 7lbs. At 6lbs. that burner would melt cold 1/2" sq. stock in about 30 seconds. On a couple occasions I couldn't have scripted it better. The fellow is expounding on how BS it is any gas forge will weld and anybody making the claim was a fraud. I'm standing next to the fellow but I'm not a bad guy, I'm not trying to sell forges I'm just a misguided newby who doesn't know any better. I interrupt him asking if he's watching his steel. He actually Bahed and just reached around almost behind him and drew it from the forge without looking. Probably 3" was a boiling puddle on the forge floor and what was still attached hit the open air in a spray of sizzling hissing sparks. The spray of sparks burned a number of us standing too close. Like I say, I don't use that old forge, it's not insulated well enough to use a 3/4" T and a 1" T is just too much so it sits gathering dust. Far from perfect but it still works. Oh and it's heavy, really HEAVY. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. That one's almost all sweet spot. The length and shape of the horn and the hole in the side makes me think it's a chain maker's anvil. There would be tooling inserted in the receiver hole in the side if that were the case. Whatever the intended purpose it is a specialized tool but perfectly suitable for general blacksmithing. Like Das says, take a ball bearing and maybe a light ball pein hammer and do a rebound test. If you're not familiar the test is to measure how hard the face is which is an indication of how well it'll return energy to the work when you hammer against it. Simply brush loose dirt and grit off the face then drop the bearing observe how far back it bounces (rebounds) and guesstimate as a percentage. In general, less than 50% and it's a stinker, above 75% and it's pretty good, break 90% and she's a gem. I see you just responded to Das so forget the bearing and go with the ball pein. It'd probably work better anyway the surface roughness the face looks to have would probably send a bearing ball somewhere to hide forever. At $1.00/lb. anything above say 60% rebound and it's a darned good deal, if and when you find something you like better this old lady has antique value as she sits, bet you could double your money without too much trouble. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Aspects of your concept anvil exist though, I believe they were specialized anvils. Pics of one with the face and table forming similar angles as your asymmetrical heal was just posted recently in an ID the anvil request. I think your fuller section is redundant I use the horn for a fuller more than anything else, compensating for the taper's effect on the work is easy, just reverse directions frequently. I think lengthening and extending the taper of the horn would be more useful. The horn on my Soderfors is more conical than most and I find I like that aspect when using it like a mandrel cone. If anything I think I might like a true cone but have never had a chance to give one a try. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. It went pretty well Mark. As always there is a LOT going on the last weekend of June so attendance wasn't great but more people stopped and asked questions and I got to talk almost enough. Weather was very nice, light overcast and temps in the mid 60s with a light breeze. Dry cool and pleasant. The iron pour was it's usual success a number of guys cast swage blocks, I'm really looking forward to seeing how they turn out. Sean couldn't make it this year so things got slow around my anvil while I took breaks. All in all I think it went pretty well. How was your weekend? Jer
  7. Brother I don't know how you get most places. I do have to say you're willingness to share the interesting bits of some of those places is pretty darned cool. Just because a forge was bad in it's youth doesn't mean it's worthless does it? I mean really, I think a couple are already serving life sentences I don't want to crush the dream of them finding useful employment and maybe moving out. Frosty The Lucky.
  8. Laundry borax isn't as aggressive as you'd like for welding chromium or nickle steels. If you have a welding supply store locally check the cans of welding/brazing flux. It's typically anhydrous borax, boric acid and sometimes something proprietary you have to look on the MSDS to get a hint of. Or, better still if you can order sal amoniac but use good, VERY good ventilation it can be darned toxic to breath. Well, yeah it's something you did wrong but you can fix that and we'll help. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Thanks Joe. Pull the jet back till the end is about where the yellow mark is now and see what that does. Being off center messes up the stream of propane and induction but having 3 set screws should let you aim it straight down the bore. This adjustment takes really REALLY small turns of the set screws. Just apply enough loosening force to the screw at the widest gap till it moves at ALL. Then just put a little tightening force on the other 2. Check and repeat as needed. It's like the final centering adjustment of a 4 jaw lathe chuck, half a turn on the wrench and it was screwed up, start over. It took me forever to learn to do that. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. Oh don't be silly John, you just give the Kodiak brown pants bear your fish and quietly leave them to enjoy the snack. Always carry a change of clothes and baby wipes when in the bush. Best toilet paper on Earth baby wipes! Frosty The Lucky.
  11. Michael: The profile looks good but you'll have better results if you keep the scale brushed off while forging so it doesn't leave such deep pitting. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Thank you Jenifer, coming from a pro means a lot. You've hit it on the head, I wasn't speaking to the professionals as much as to the beginners and hobbyists. Your position on stance is right and not something beginners think about I'm glad you brought it up. It reminds me of the beginner asking why I do something a certain way and I have to actually think about it so I can explain it. I've been assuming stance as necessary so long I don't think about it and am afraid didn't consider folk might not do it automatically. When teaching I refer to addressing the anvil and draw heavily on my martial arts training from so long ago. I never thought of applying terminology for the 3 basic positions. We called them a: "Front " = neutral, "Forward" = aggressive and "Back" = retreating. and you're absolutely right about stance and power. I'll have to examine my stances and the plane of rotation of my swing and see if I need to change something: my opinion of safer, my description of how I address the anvil, the way I address the anvil. I've never been a pro but I used to be fast and good at the anvil, a start to finish leaf finial coat hook with twist in under 6 minutes while maintaining a patter to the audience, describing what I was doing, why, what was going to happen, answer questions, tell jokes and generally perform good theater. Thinking back on the days before the accident I did stand more aggressively at the anvil, keeping my center of mass farther forward over my center of support. My balance was better too. A good number of the most experienced smiths in our club are farriers and you can see a full gamut of form. One of our guys works almost directly over the anvil and his swing almost looks like he's trying to punch the hammer into the work. When he demos for meetings one of his longer "regular" talks is about how to lean the anvil away from you so the hammer impacts flush with the face and (waait - forrr - iiiiitt!) missed blows do NOT smack him between the eyes. He also lives with debilitating wrist, elbow and shoulder damage and is having to retire from farrier work but hopes to be able to continue smithing on a slower easier score. The other two who demonstrate pretty regularly, depends on their apt book you know. They have much better stances, far less aggressive though still forward and they roll the blow down their arms, snappy rather than HARD blows. Their handles are the typical narrow whippy farrier handles and they hammer fast. Time is money it's a fact of the farrier's life who has bills to pay and likes to eat. It's just how it is. Shoeing a horse is a different universe. Horses don't really like having their hooves messed with, especially if you're not their people, if you don't feed, water, brush, talk to, love on, ride them, clean their stall, are generally not of their herd, you're suspect. A farrier must possess a level of clinical detachment, they aren't going to be there long enough to win the horses trust and affection by the herd bonding effects. A farrier has to radiate a love of horses, respect their superior size, weight and strength but not take any, ANY guff. It's actually pretty cool once you get the hang of it. You ain't lived till you've stepped in front of a panicked run away horse, grabbed a loose rein when they shied from running you down, turned their lunge into a circle, given them that deep confident whoa, you KNOW they're going to obay because YOU - SAID - SO, then shush and calm them down. Knowing how to touch a panicked horse to calm them and how they'll just decide you are okay and the bond is on. Ever see someone breath into a horse's nostril? Goes a long way to calming a panicked or spooky horse. Give them your scent AND lower their blood oxy level. Pretty sneaky eh? About two maybe three summers ago I was garage saling, it was Colony Days in Palmer so garage sales hot. Anyway, I was driving back towards the Glenn Hwy. and here comes a spooked and panicking horse in carriage traps skidding around the corner off the Glenn. I let off the throttle and eyeball the lay of the farm fields. The fencing on the right is secure it's not going that way and up ahead a little the road is on a fill section about 3' high. I have my funnel, with the Saturn Vue in the right lane the horse is going to run down the oncoming lane so as it approaches and slows down because it's road is narrowing I open the door, step out in front of it, take the reign and give it my best WHOA down there. We do a couple circles till she can stop running and start dancing as I'm shushing and calming her down. By time the police cruiser in hot pursuit approaches I had her standing and I motion them to slow down and stop back away from us. (It REALLY helps having flagged traffic as part of my regular job for 30 years,) By time one of the officers walked up I had her calm her breathing and heart rate slowing down and I was hand currying the dripping sweat off her. Like with dogs, grooming is a bonding technique. A true Kodak moment, more than 45 years since I'd caught a run away, a severe brain injury, no time to think and I still had it. (Hey, don't mention lucky and ruin my moment of glory!) GEEZE I LOVE reliving that couple minutes and to ice the cake I got to give police officers orders and instructions before I hopped in my vehicle and bidding them adieu. Heh heh heh, follow directions and you boys can handle this till help arrives. Even if you have the touch and manner to earn the limited cooperation a horse is going to give a good farrier, they are only going to stand there so long. You REALLY want to be in and out in what, 30-45 mins? It's been decades since I watched the farrier shoe our horses so I don't remember times very well. Still you don't want to be messing around longer than necessary. A good job of: cleaning, trimming, filing 4 hooves is hard to do very fast and do right. Hot fitting and nailing goes reasonably fast. That leaves making the and adjusting shoes the one place you can realistically get faster so farriers tend to be furiously fast at the anvil. Am I close Jenifer? It's only been 45 years or so since I watched farriers very often. Anyway, farriers address the anvil in an aggressive stance and go fast. It's part of the job. But they address the horses in a slightly more aggressive than neutral stance. You have to be Alpha but not threatening, it's a trick and done right a joy to watch. Boy did I get side tracked but you brought back memories and give me things to think about. Here's hoping I wasn't too far off the mark. Frosty The Lucky.
  13. That's not a bad looking flame Joe. Can I call you Joe? A LITTLE rich but not bad at all but I LIKE my burners to run a LITTLE rich it makes a lot of things much easier. You just need good ventilation. Do you have a pic looking straight in the intake port so we can get a look at the jet position? Without being able to see what you have the following is speculation but maybe worth a thought. I can see a couple ways to move the jet position back if it's practical behind the intake ports is probably beyond the point of no returns. The first method I can see is change the brass fittings you're using to make up to the contact tip, if you can lose one of the final fittings between the gas pipe and the mig tip it'll move the jet back significantly. If that isn't possible a longer pipe nipple than you're using for the gas feel sleeve will allow a lot more adjustment range. Don't change so many things at the same time or you'll never really know what did what. How does it work in a forge? Frosty The Lucky.
  14. I've found keeping my elbows indexed into or as close to my hips as possible and keeping the strike zone on my center line has a number of advantages. 1 it means my blows are generally much more accurate. Fewer mistakes less reworking, less tired, good control. At this angle the plane of rotation is centered just outside your shoulders for men, women it might be closer to over the shoulder, I don't know how your elbow rests in relation to your hips. The rim of the plane of rotation is the impact point of the hammer head on my center line or nose to belly button. A missed blow on this plane will have the hammer head passing over the joint of your shoulder and past your head. That depends on where you miss, miss across your center line (inside) and the hammer will pass outside your shoulder, farther from your head. If you miss outside your center line it's coming back closer to your head. Just keeping your elbows on your sides and your aim point on the far side of your center line makes missed blows a LOT safer. Please note I did NOT say "SAFE" there are so many variables that can effect the rebound direction of a missed blow making it "safe" would mean "No hammering for YOU!" Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Good thought Mike, so all those old gas forges are just waiting for the right job to leap to the rescue. Cool, I thought they were mostly just trip hazards I needed to build a bench they could hide under. BOY am I relieved! Frosty The Lucky.