Frosty

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About Frosty

  • Rank
    The improbable Curmudgeon
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Interests
    Metal work, people, puns and other bad jokes.

Converted

  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Biography
    Real name's Jerry Frost. I've lived in Alaska for 37 years. Been a hobby smith since I was maybe 10.
  • Interests
    metal working of all kinds leaning towards blacksmithing.
  • Occupation
    Retired equipment operator
  1. Are the trucks and axles there? Rail car axles are typically medium carbon steel modern ones are 4140, regardless they're really nice anvils for power hammers. Too long as they come off the car but a cutoff band saw handles trimming nicely and welding 3 together to make a heavy column is a dandy anvil base. (sow block) The hinge pins and springs in the truck carriages are also excellent steel, good for hammers, top and bottom tools, etc. A rail car would be a supermarket of salvage iron/steel. Congratulations for striking the mother lode! Frosty The Lucky.
  2. Welcome aboard AC, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the Iforge gang live within visiting distance. We need pics of your set up or we're just guessing. Coal isn't terribly hard to light and get a forge worthy fire going but there are different rules of thumb for different coal and forge types. Frosty The Lucky.
  3. You've got it pretty close to right Steven, a turning hammer is no more directional than a flat pein, it just concentrates the same amount of energy in a smaller area so the effect is greater. I draw square or flat tapers with the turning pein all the time and doing it over the horn or a radiused edge moves more efficiently still. Yes, squish or smoosh are acceptable blacksmith terms. Beginners tend to lean towards wonky smoosh. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. Yes he is. You'd be hard pressed to make a better friend. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Powderfinger. I STRONGLY recommend you stop using regulators and hoses not intended for propane. Propane is very chemically reactive and WILL eat the diaphragm and seals in the regulator while it's degrading the hose. If the tank has set long there's no telling what made a nest in the valve. If there's liquid propane in the tank it should be pushing about 200psi at room temperature. I can't say why it wouldn't bleed the full tank pressure past any blockage so it'd give you a strong . . . puff at least when you crack the tank valve. I'd take it to the local propane supply and exchange it for another tank and let them repair or destroy and scrap that one. Propane isn't worth taking chances with it isn't worth saving a few bucks. Same goes for the regulator your using, it's BAD juju stop IT! Frosty The Lucky.
  6. For the same reason not many designs for gun (blown) burner forges are out there, they're really easy to make or just buy. Propane is trickier it doesn't like mixing with air and will in fact self separate if given a chance. Propane is available as LPG so the tank pressure is a good constant making an induction burner reasonably easy. It just takes moderately good shop skills to do right. Frosty The Lucky.
  7. Good grief! Start it low, REALLY low. When you get a little bitty flame lit start turning it up SLOWLY till it's burning correctly. You don't start things at full throttle, not and expect them to work or last anyway. Okay, I didn't read the most current post you have a good point Buzzkill. If so it may be tripping the excessive flow valve in the tank too. Truth is I don't know what you'd use a torch with NO controls for. Frosty The Lucky.
  8. Both shapes have their uses but for the most part it's preference of the user that's the difference. For the most part my hammers have round faces and peins but I have a couple square ones, these work nicely for close work, say dressing a shoulder. However the round faces work much better for texturing and the like. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Welcome aboard Powderfinger, glad to have you. You'll have to tell us the story behind your webhandle sometime. Anyway, if you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised at how many of the Iforge gang live within visiting distance. About your problem. Spend the $20-30 and buy a real high flow/psi propane regulator. Unless it's rated for propane acet regulators tend to get their guts eaten by the highly chemically active propane. Open the tank valve SLOWLY and it won't "usually" trip the excess flow valve. If you're exchanging tanks like I do specify a commercial tank they don't require the "safety" devices the typical home use tanks do. I exchange 20 and 40lb. bottles indiscriminately and have never had the excess flow valve shut it down. My forges have a 1/4 turn ball valve at the forge and another on the tank. My forges are usually multiple burner set ups so the prop is run to a manifold and then to individual burners via 1/8" copper tubing. If I had all my burner valves open and spun the tank valve open quickly it WILL engage the overflow valve. The things are there to prevent folks burning their house down because something cuts or burns the supply hose. A sudden discharge of propane trips the safety valve. Open the burner valves slowly and you're fine. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. Michael: I have to correct you on one of your last statements. This was NOT the result of "ignorance" you know better and took the chance. This is called "Gross Negligence" Negligence means you didn't do what you were supposed to and "Gross" means you knew better. You lucked out, the pain and inconvenience you're undergoing is natures way of paddling your butt so you don't make the same dumb mistake again. You ARE LUCKY you were NOT blinded! The super magnet is a super precaution, keep it in a Baggie so it's easy to clean after use. If you don't have a super magnet available leave your eye protection on till you've washed your hair in the shower! And wash your eyebrows, they're there to catch crap from sliding down your forehead into your eyes. They're evolved to catch and hold crap, wash them out. Before super magnets I used to close my eyes before taking my safety glasses off and getting in the shower. I've had to eyewash myself I don't know how many times right after taking my safety glasses off. My regular trifocals are poly carbonate with side shields, I wear them all the time. The ONLY comments I've heard are from shop guys and yes I like goggles over them when I'd doing "dirty" work. You only have two eyes and they're actually pretty easy to protect but YOU HAVE TO DO IT! Frosty The Lucky.
  11. Welcome to the club Michael, maybe we should hold a poll and see how many of us have had to have stuff dug out of our eyes and the story behind it. My left cornea has a scar the ophthalmologist notes on every exam. I get dilated eye exams 2x year what with the nerve damage and the shingles on that side of my face. A saying of my Father's I got sick ad tired of hearing regularly is as true as any. "Familiarity breeds contempt." It's what makes us think, "awe this'll only take a second." "I don't need a clamp for this little thing." "It's only 12" I don't need to hold on with both hands." (That was almost exactly what I was thinking when I took a dive off a tilt top trailer. It was a tiny excavator ad a big trailer. Shattered my left arm and elbow trying to drive my elbow into Earth. Earth won.) Alan's right. . . .mostly, the only PPE that should be in your drawers is a cup. Really glad your eye hurts from the light. Beats heck out of poking it out. Be careful out there kids. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Steve: Will you PLEASE post a picture of you doing a "common CURTSEY?" Brother you travel in a WAY different crowd. Or should I say tu TU different? I didn't know you were that typo guy! About the faux pas posting another person's picture. In this case it is a courtesy issue but it can end with you in court. Different places and situations different rules. Here it's just not polite but say you'd chosen a pic of a blade in a magazine, posted it here and didn't give credit? You could be found liable for fraud. Sure, we're usually a more easy going bunch but you can't count on everybody cutting you slack, especially if they're paying the bills with their work. This is kind of like a cocktail party of like minded folk who almost never get the chance to shake hands, or curtsey in person. I'm not trying to beat you up about it but it's a real world thing. If you use someone else's work, words, etc. as part of your's you need to give them credit if for nothing more than courtesy. Frosty The Lucky.
  13. Welcome aboard Bernie, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the Iforge gang live within visiting distance. Heck one might even have a set of rolls with square dies. What are the radius of the bends you want to make? If it's close, say 1" or less it's a cut and weld operation but it it's long sat a 24" radius it can be done over a form by slipping a cable through the tubing and winching it over the form. Anchor the form of course. Do it cold, heating it is nothing but headaches leading to failures. And NO don't fill it with sand, that only works with round tubing. Also drawing it with cable works best with round pipe but is reasonably effective bending a large radius in sq. Frosty The Lucky.
  14. Cool, by time I checked you guys had answered the question for me. Natural gas operates at pretty low pressure, especially compared to what we run in a forge. Regardless, without air mixed with the fuel your range flames would be yellow and feathery like an untrimmed candle. As far as I know all gas burning appliances can be converted between Methane and Propane which have much different air fuel ratios so the appliance has to be adjustable. Change jet and adjust the choke does it. Frosty The Lucky.
  15. If it says to fill it to a mark that's what I'd do. My old Buffalo 400 doesn't have instructions on it it just leaks excess oil on the floor. No plastic in mine either but it's a different blower. Frosty The Lucky.