Frosty

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About Frosty

  • Rank
    The improbable Curmudgeon

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Interests
    Metal work, people, puns and other bad jokes.

Converted

  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Biography
    Real name's Jerry Frost. I've lived in Alaska for 37 years. Been a hobby smith since I was maybe 10.
  • Interests
    metal working of all kinds leaning towards blacksmithing.
  • Occupation
    Retired equipment operator

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  1. Caught again! Frosty The Lucky.
  2. Frosty

    Show me your anvil

    You don't use the step like a bottom swage? For example it's a good place to start a punch even better for a slitter in round stock. OR a good corner to brace in while hot rasping. It's also a good spot to true up pieces. I upset longer stock into the step. The table I don't use and don't let me see you even looking like you want to take a chisel to it. The step itself though is something I use frequently. Frosty The Lucky.
  3. So you're saying we should stop diving at CDC facilities? The rash? Ah, that comes and goes like the cough and swelling don't sweat it. Want try my beer? Made it by hand myself. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. Agreed, between the shell and blanket works well for a flat floor. A cake pan for the bottom of the shell is flat to start. Good good. I wasn't very clear, I meant I couldn't think of anywhere for perlite in this build. 2" of blanket and 1/2" hard liner and makes a nice working volume and plenty of insulation. Adding another layer of insulation won't help performance appreciably but will reduce working space. If the shell under the floor is getting too HOT, indicating significant heat loss. More insulation under the floor might be called for and simply setting the forge on a bed of perlite in a larger pan would do it nicely. I've never tried measuring the temp between inner and outer layers of Kaowool so I don't know if you could replace the outer layer with perlite. I'd be surprised if it wouldn't work, I don't think temps exceed 2,000 f. after the first inch. My first forge was 3/4" Pyramid super and 1" of Kaowool running under a 1" T. It'd easily melt your work if you didn't keep an eye on it and the shell didn't get hot enough to make a melted cheese sandwich, let alone a grilled cheese. The shell got WAY too hot to touch though, not quite boil spit hot. Using cemented perlite for the second layer of insulation out from the flame face can be done but the real question being. Is it worth the extra work? Ah, you're back. Yes I think so. I have no idea if the FAM slows down in the plenum or if it should. I just need it to equalize over the outlets so they're all evenly fed. My only concern is the velocity through the outlets is higher than the FAM's rate of propagation, (flame front) or it'll burn back into the plenum. Then it's game over, you have a flammable FAM all the way up the inducer. THAT'S the critical balance, enough outlets to maintain a consistently lower back pressure so the inducer works while maintaining a high enough outlet velocity it won't burn back. I did all my testing with 2" x 4" burner blocks. Drilled holes screwed it to the plenum and lit it up to see what happened. They only needed to run for 20 seconds max to see if they'd work through useful psi ranges. If you're curious why I ran my first forge with a 1" T, I didn't know what I was doing and that was my first successful NA burner. I made the list of beginner overkill mistakes. Heavy pipe shell and 2x as much burner as it needed. It turned down to a working temps though and worked just fine till I got the T's figured out. Convinced more than one person you could indeed weld in a NA forge and it didn't scale steel up in the forge. It burns way too rich to use indoors, it's actually reduce scale to clean steel it's so rich. AND melt it if you didn't pay attention. I don't use it, haven't for years. It's still there though. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Frosty

    Grinder Identification Help!

    Yo Dood. Did you talk to one of the old timer doods at the axe works? This grinder may have been sitting in a back room for years before someone cleared the space. I'm thinking the large drum is for finish grinding and polishing large faces. Say axe heads so they come out with single straight grind marks. Have you searched it for any ID plates? I'm betting it has a patent on it if not model and serial #. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. Sorry about the slow reply, my memory sucks. I think that's plenty of plenum but I've never built one that size. The thing is to have enough volume for the pressure to equalize over all the burner outlets. I don't understand what you're doing here. Is the perlite between the wool layers, between the wool and kastolite, or what? Why are you using perlite at all? It melts at just under 2,000f so if I understand how you want to make the floor it will fail pretty quickly. In part I can't tell in what order you're building the liner. From the shell in: wool, 2 ea. 1" 1 lb. Then 1/2" Kastolite 30 or equivalent. Lastly, Kiln wash about the thickness of two coats latex paint. I can't think of anywhere to use perlite. If you put it directly behind the hard refractory, Kastolite, it'll melt. The outside of the Kastolite layer is going to get almost as hot as the interior of the forge. Perlite doesn't stand a chance. I know Mike talks about where a person could use it but doesn't recommend it. Jerry
  7. Frosty

    Gas, dope, leaks, and questions

    I'll look him up before I build one. Right now I want to take a closer look at how it's laid out. Is there any significant differences between the one in the book and what you recommend now? Besides hardware like: scd 80 rather than 40, cap rather than reducer, # of intake ports, etc. Does the old design have the same problem with leaks and performance? Frosty The Lucky.
  8. Frosty

    Just a photo.

    Hey, I let my 89 pickup go 2 years ago, had it hauled and crushed that is but it'd lived past it's worth fixing date. made 200k and some. I've taken a number of walks outside in my T shirt, sunny and clear. -3 right now but hit 5 for the high. Walked to the wood sled just off the porch steps that is. For once it was clear for a sky event! Got to watch the eclipse start to finish, beautiful show. Usually it's overcast for anything interesting going on in the sky, be it: meteor shower, aurora, comet, whatever. CLOUDS. I got to enjoy some 100 f. degree weather summer before last and that did it for me for another couple decades. Alexandr: I'm happy to say we rarely get that much snow at one time here and I have a pickup truck with a plow for when we do. Beautiful as it is I don't miss shoveling snow that deep. Even if it is cold, light snow. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Frosty

    Show me your anvil

    Ayup, that's the one, thank you. Always a good watch. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. Frosty

    Gas, dope, leaks, and questions

    I guess I'll have to open up one of the pirated PDFs of your book and start looking more closely. It's just too darned cold in the shop to make one though. Frosty The Lucky.
  11. Frosty

    Looking for advice on my very first gas forge

    You're welcome, we've all been there. You aren't going to find paint THAT high temp either. The openings are just going to show the heat. Lately I've been playing with painting or covering the shell close to the openings with refractory. Mine tend to warp to the point of being a problem. No telling what marketing will tell management to make the guys on the floor do. Just go ahead and burn that paint off. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Frosty

    Video of curing and other questions

    I put the gauge right after the regulator. What I see though is a LOT of pipe tape. If a tiny bit got wiped into the line it may be gumming the gauge up say preventing the needle moving no matter what the diaphragm does. I believe you've discovered why you don't use T tape on gas lines. Did you follow the rules applying it? 1 1/2 clockwise turns starting a couple threads from the end. NO MORE! Been there, got the T shirt. Frosty The Lucky.
  13. Frosty

    Looking for advice on my very first gas forge

    Any metal close to the door will get HOT. Even high heat paint or powder coating will suffer and eventually burn off. This is normal for any propane forge that's been painted near the doors. The real problem is warping but yours is well designed to compensate for normal warpage. The doors have enough room to move and still close reasonably tightly. About a forge looking good. It's a piece of equipment designed to contain an extreme (2,500 f.+) environment not look pretty. It's a tool, all the artistry is invested in it working well rather than looks. I'm a form follows function guy a good tool looks good in my eye BECAUSE it's a GOOD tool. A pretty tool that doesn't work well doesn't look worth picking up. That's just me, I don't dictate taste. Mom my maternal Grandmother used to say, "To each his own said the old lady as she kissed the cow." I'm also not saying tools shouldn't be well kept, they should be cleaned, repaired as needed, dressed and put away. Says the guy who has multiple copies of lots of tools because I can't remember where I put them. <sigh> Anyway, there's nothing wrong with your forge, I don't know why they put "Hammerite" on it, the stuff isn't very heat resistant. Once it burns off I suggest Muffler paint or one of the other HIGH temp paints. No matter how that works out, USE IT, that's what it was designed for and does well. I've never heard a bad word about how they function. Frosty The Lucky.
  14. Frosty

    Getting cement out of a forge

    Call a concrete company and ask about removing it chemically. I just deleted a, frankly too dangerous to post here, method that won't effect the iron at all. But it's just too potentially dangerous to put in the hands of folk who might not be the really careful type. REALLY CAREFUL is the key phrase. Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Frosty

    Grinder Identification Help!

    It doesn't look home built to me, too many stamped pieces. "Vintage Axe Works" makes and restores axes ( I just searched it) and that's their logo on the sticker. Maybe probably surplussed out of their shop? There's a contact link on their site. I'd give them a call, the phone is a LOT more likely to get a response than an email. Frosty The Lucky.