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I Forge Iron

Frosty

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About Frosty

  • Rank
    The improbable Curmudgeon

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Interests
    Metal work, people, puns and other bad jokes.

Converted

  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Biography
    Real name's Jerry Frost. I've lived in Alaska for 37 years. Been a hobby smith since I was maybe 10.
  • Interests
    metal working of all kinds leaning towards blacksmithing.
  • Occupation
    Retired equipment operator

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Ooooh, SWEET SCORE John! Did you cut the crack stops across the face? Good move it will help prevent the delamination from progressing farther. I shouldn't have used the term Delamination, that looks like someone actually fractured the face plate. A delamination is the high carbon steel face plate coming unwelded from the anvil's body. While it CAN be repaired, doing it right is not a trivial process and can NOT be done without risk to the anvil. Please don't do any grinding on it, at least until you've used it for a year or so, any steel removed from the face is gone for good and
  2. The street address wasn't helpful? The offer to help you learn to do web searches wasn't helpful? I apologize I won't do it again, I promise. Frosty The Lucky.
  3. I'd think up to around 5/8", most RR spikes 5/8" aren't they? Frosty The Lucky.
  4. I just calls em like I sees em. It's an excellent first off and even if it were the 100th. there'd be room for improvement. Leaves are a matter of practice, you'll find a size and shape that comes easy and you'll be using them all over the place. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Welcome aboard Jack, glad to have you. What do you have in mind to make? We LOVE pics and wouldn't hate a look see at your shop, equipment, tools, projects, kids, pets, etc. Most anything you'd show young children you don't want to have to explain adult stuff to. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. I just searched "Morgan Thermal Ceramics Locations". I had to select Canada on the "Our Locations" page and only got one hit. 1185 Walkers Line Burlington Ontario L7M 1L1 It wasn't a vague suggestion to do a web search, it was a straight up suggestion. You don't expect us to do everything for you do you? If you don't know how to do web searches, ask for help we'll coach you, it's an acquired skill set and must be learned. I missed where someone here told you 2,800 IFBs are no good, in this thread. Are you confusing Morgan, K-26 IFBs with the evaluation of the Uni-cast
  7. I like it, nice yard art. It has me thinking a few LEDs to light up the bottles might be nice. Larger leaves would balance with the branches better to my eye too. All that aside, WELL DONE! Mom'll love it. Frosty
  8. A 0.030 jet is small enough it should be running lean, not rich. I run 0.035 in mine and have to be careful tuning to keep them from running lean. When you trim your mig tips back do you debur them? A torch tip file pushed from the threaded end out works best. Don't overdo it or you can enlarge and or deform the jet. You want it round and smooth so the propane stream emerges in a smooth cone straight down the center of the mixing tube. I don't know what to do about the hose's influence on alignment right now. Maybe as a temporary measure prop it up as close to the burner as practica
  9. A couple things. First the only thing wanting it RIGHT NOW guarantees is making your mistakes permanent more quickly. Old type IFBs ran $13 ea. on the shelf in Anchorage Ak. K-26 are becoming industry standard and are available on the shelf in Anchorage for just under $4 ea. with our club discount, under $6 retail. Old type IFBs have a very short lifespan in a propane forge, their tamp rating is way too low and they can't tolerate the rapid temp changes a propane burner causes. Seriously an IFB lined forge will go from room temp to 2,800f.+ in under 5 minutes. You get to light your old t
  10. A still pic tells me all I usually need to know, they don't move around and such so I can focus on what tells me the story. However a really short video's sound track sometimes fills in details. Your burner is running way rich largely because the gas stream isn't right. The flame is bushy and soft, actually fluttering. You said you've used different size mig tips. What size is this one? About your forge. The only dimensions that matter where burners are concerned is the volume and shape. One well tuned 3/4" burner will bring between 300-350 cu/in to welding temperature. Odd sh
  11. Sure Mike, all you need is a laser powerful (bright) enough to fuse the desired ceramic. MY, you HAVE been away too long or use burners in ways we can't discuss here. NO! Please don't PM me and tell me, I don't want to know! Not having you around to poke fun at has been a hole in the forum. Oh, if a person wanted to sexify a 3D ceramic burner a laser printed glaze flame job would be a start. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Agreed, cracking water electrically is an economic negative. Thermally cracking water is less so. It takes a heat exchanger in the exhaust circuit that can amplify the temperature. The water being cracked controls the final temperature and prevents damage to the system. Recirculating the furnace exhaust through the cracker would save energy as well. While thermal cracking works you don't see anybody doing it so it's not an economic positive. A good example of a thermal amplifying device is the "Vortex Tube." Nifty things. Frosty The Lucky.
  13. Welcome aboard confusing scramble of letters guy, glad to have you. If you'll sign your posts with a name, nick, or something less clunky we won't make one up for you. Also if you put your general location in the header you'll have a chance of hooking up with folk within visiting distance. The reason using HHO or H2 for forge fuel makes brittle steel is called, "hydrogen embrittlement" and is probably why you don't see: foundries, mills, etc. using hydrogen as fuel. It's cheap enough to make if it were a suitable fuel it'd be in use. You can crack water in a heat exchanger on the exhaust
  14. The air hammer bits are for driving, ground rods like Billy suggests or say studs. You don't need ATF and acetone, it's just the best home brew we've run across so far. You can use oil and a solvent, gasoline say. Being VERY CAREFUL of the fumes, acetone produces flammable fumes but not as much as gasoline. Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Being farther from the opening could mean it was getting cleaner air. Exhaust gasses from the opening WILL go up and probably be sucked in by the burner. When you start making changes, make ONE then test. If you make more than one change you'll never know what did what, the vagaries in cause and effect are exponential, 2 changes introduce at least 8 variables. It's a nightmare. Also we'll need to do some talking before I can make good suggestions, the above were guesstimates based on incomplete information and specifics I can't see. Yes, just moving a burner can move the jet o
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