Frosty

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About Frosty

  • Rank
    The improbable Curmudgeon

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Interests
    Metal work, people, puns and other bad jokes.

Converted

  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Biography
    Real name's Jerry Frost. I've lived in Alaska for 37 years. Been a hobby smith since I was maybe 10.
  • Interests
    metal working of all kinds leaning towards blacksmithing.
  • Occupation
    Retired equipment operator

Recent Profile Visitors

56,242 profile views
  1. Frosty

    It followed me home

    How about a bucket of water, you'd trust ME with a bucket of water wouldn't you? Dayton is a fossil finding hot spot, I just Yahood it. Oakes Quarry? The little fossils pic on the website looks to me to have an orthoceres and a coral fan I sort of recognize. The "Nautilus" you found is probably an ammonite, a progenitor. Neat, I'll have to put Dayton on the Talk Deb into it RVing list. Frosty The Lucky.
  2. Frosty

    "Inverted press" modification?

    How well do "bulldozer" forging presses work? You see used log splitters for pretty reasonable up here and heck a new one is a couple few grand. Frosty The Lucky.
  3. Frosty

    the true history of the Tomahawk

    Chalk that straight line up to Thomas. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. Frosty

    Is this wrought iron?

    I don't think I'll sanctify that with a reply. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Frosty

    Diamond stone hand sanding

    Diamond impregnated cutting tools all operate on the same principles be they: rock saws, core barrels, diamond laps, etc. The diamonds don't wear out, they get pulled out of the matrix. For cutting hard strata you need a soft matrix so the diamond stays exposed where soft strata requires a hard matrix of the diamond digs inn and gets popped out. Hardened steel prevents diamond from digging in so the matrix is softer. Unhardened steel on the other hand allows diamonds to dig in more easily and requires a harder matrix to prevent it and popping the diamond out. I can't say for sure, I'm only going on what I'm reading here and what I know from drilling, Dad's rock saws and such. Using a diamond hone (sharpening tool) to form unhardened steel is likely popping the diamond grit out of the nickle matrix and wearing it right out. You can feel it happen in your hand as resistance to movement goes down. If they don't make a diamond tool specifically for grinding unhardened steel you're probably throwing money away. Diamond cutting tools aren't files and don't work like them. A file works like a saw, tooth, relief and kerf. A diamond tool works like a sharpening stone, they abrade not cut. Of course that's just my opinion I could be wrong. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. Frosty

    Brand new at this.

    But fresh cut wood smells so good! Frosty The Lucky.
  7. Frosty

    It followed me home

    Hey, what are friends for Thomas? Frosty The Lucky.
  8. Frosty

    Right or left?

    That's the one. Yes, I've worked with and for Germans my whole life. Dad would hire a German metal spinner and we'd get to listen to how it's REALLY done. Until Dad retrained him so he could actually make a living spinning. Manual (stick) spinning is the ONLY real way to spin you know. In extreme stubborn cases Dad would let them spin one of our bread and butter parts manually as piecework. While Dad spun with scissor tools on the next lathe. The ratio was usually 6:1 if the new guy maintained quality. Once he'd convert a German's opinion they all but idolized him. As I recall they were excellent to great spinners one and all, Dad preferred German spinners when he could hire one. You do a nice rewording of the old adage, "If it's stupid and it works it ain't stupid." I recommend a newcomer NOT permanently Orient the anvil by say burying the stand. Talk about the, "If a little is good a LOT must be better," philosophy taken to silly lengths. Oh go ahead all you guys with buried anvil stands give me grief, I've heard it before. I just prefer to be able to reorient my anvil without having to move the whole shop. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Frosty

    First time

    That forge only has 1" of blanket and no hard refractory is apparent. Bare ceramic blanket is a breathing hazard you really should seal for safety's sake and the durability of the liner. Is 1" enough insulation? That'd give it a 4 3/4" wide interior, adequate for small work, for knives it's cavernous. However, is it enough insulation? A number of members here with years of experience prefer 1" and have good arguments more isn't a significant savings in fuel or increase in temperature. If you'll look at the side of the ammo can where the burner is firing you can see the paint burning. It's not black but you can see the heat discoloration. Just because you have something does NOT mean you HAVE to use it. I can think of a bunch of good uses for ammo cans besides stowing my ammo. MY road emergency kit is in a .50 can in back of my truck seat. There are lots of steel boxes and cans out there if you keep your eyes and mind open. Don't get me wrong, I'm NOT saying don't do it. I just think there are a lot better alternatives available for less money. I know it makes Mike a little crazy but I REALLY like 12" of 10" single wall stainless steel stove pipe for a cylindrical forge. Standard drill bits and hole saw, and SS pop rivets covers the tool kit. The wall brackets make perfect legs. SS is a better IR reflector than steel so the outside of the shell doesn't get as hot meaning an insignificant bit of the heat is reflected back into the forge but touching it won't burn you before you can take your hand away. You can buy virtually everything off the shelf, 12" x 10" dia. pipe, two 12" x 6" bushing reducers, two 6" male caps, two 10" wall brackets. The only real fab you need do is bending a L bracket burner mount to get the orientation you want. Strip the chrome off some hardware hinges for the doors. That's about it, really. Sure it's pretty expensive compared to scrounging a: popcorn tin, piece of pipe or old utility box but it's light weight, strong as can be and effective. Just one of many alternatives IF you don't box yourself in. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. Frosty

    Right or left?

    I'd remember reading that recently if an ex-associate hadn't decided he needed most of my library more than I did. Bad story, never mind. One book I recall was a collection of articles from old blacksmith trade magazines IIRC and they spoke in absolutes. One of my favorites being, "Once you try my method you'll find it superior." or to that effect. As has been discussed, apprentices weren't usually allowed to ask questions, Do it THIS way. PERIOD. A good example of a good or better direction to address the horn would be drawing out the hoop on a bottle opener. When I do it with the horn on my left I have to lean over to have my blows strike into the horn. If I put it to my left I can stand back, relax and strike with a slight angled motion. Call it a sidearm blow, SLIGHTLY sidearm. If I made a lot of openers I'd make a dedicated drift but that's a different thread. Frosty The Lucky.
  11. Frosty

    Noob with first charcoal forge

    It's the best kind. At least till someone buys the gross land down the hill, subdivide and you end up looking in people's back windows. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Frosty

    Brand new at this.

    Welcome aboard J, glad to have you. Another wood worker looks into the abyss! Bwa ha ha ha. You will be assimilated. What's fun is how many wood workers do a lot more blacksmithing than wood working once they start. There are few things that feel as good as using a tool you made with your own hands. Frosty The Lucky.
  13. Frosty

    When to start signing your work

    Garage, yard, rummage, etc. sale punches, chisels, etc. Practice with a Dremel till you have the touchmark you like. Carve a master in a piece of steel then heat and drive the punch into it. Or, carve your touchmark directly into the punch. You'll want to preform the: cold chisel, punch, coil spring, O1, whatever you find for punch stock by grinding it to diameter and flat. If you plan on marking your work hot heat treating the touchmark punch isn't so important but if you want to mark it cold then the punch needs to be heat treated. Hardened and tempered as for a cold chisel. Don't be too surprised if you end up with a collection of not right touchmark punches. It takes practice and experimentation. What you like as a touchmark might not transfer well to your work, the more flat areas it has to imprint the more force it will take. Frosty The Lucky.
  14. Frosty

    Desert sculptures

    I think the south pole sauna is a tradition, I think the Discovery channel featured the icy walk. It's the only kind of bath available, summer or winter. Paved roads and hookups I think Deb just became persuadable. I'll take -20 anytime, I can only take off so many clothes and stay out of jail but I can put on plenty. Out door hot tubing is popular here and most saunas have out side doors close. Snow only feels crunchy for the first few seconds when you roll in it. Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Frosty

    What are these for

    Look again, I went back to make sure I hadn't made that kind of typo. Iron Woodrow asked about cotter pins. My reply was Re. roll pins. Frosty The Lucky.