Frosty

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About Frosty

  • Rank
    The improbable Curmudgeon

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Interests
    Metal work, people, puns and other bad jokes.

Converted

  • Location
    Meadow Lakes Alaska
  • Biography
    Real name's Jerry Frost. I've lived in Alaska for 37 years. Been a hobby smith since I was maybe 10.
  • Interests
    metal working of all kinds leaning towards blacksmithing.
  • Occupation
    Retired equipment operator

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Have you searched out the patent drawings? That's just a reed valve. Does it work satisfactorily? Frosty The Lucky.
  2. Shady cool concrete on a hot day, delicious. Now how about tossing me some of your breakfast? Frosty The Lucky.
  3. No. Wasp waste is a venturi, a decrease in diameter followed by a widened one. I meant to say your sleeve mount is an adjustable "step" flare as described by Mike, where the thread protector I put on Ts is a fixed step flare. The effect on induction is as you describe for said reason, just not a wasp waste. I've never owned nor had the use of a pyro so if I'm curious beyond perceived color I put a 1" cube of cold steel in the forge and time it till color equalizes. I found using long bars wasn't consistent as different parts of the bar were in different temp zones. However in a ribbon burner forge this may not be an issue. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. I love your ghosty things CGL. Clean simple and very expressive. Well done. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Looks to be in pretty good shape, congrats. Just one thing; that's not what's meant by knuckle height, Michael. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. It'd be helpful if you put your general location in the header, you never know how many members live within visiting distance. Lots of smiths are willing to help someone learn, especially in exchange for cleanup, lawns, etc. Lots of us old geezers appreciate a teen around to help out, say ride along to the salvage yard or steel supplier to help load, tiedown, unload stack. Good way to get rides to meetings, shop time and a share of the scrounge or purchased stock. Frosty The Lucky.
  7. While the banister is always worth looking at the OP is from Dec. 2017. Frosty The Lucky.
  8. If I'm not mistaken "flow check valves" are internal to smaller propane tanks to prevent blow out leaks like a cut hose. While they can be inconvenient they aren't onerous to work around feeding a forge burner or four. If you open the draw gradually they aren't a problem, I've run my 4 burner shop forge from a 20lb. tank with a flow check valve, without problem. Just not for very long before it started to freeze up. I've been doing inherently dangerous things since I can remember I just do them carefully. I was metal spinning when I was 10 or 11 I'm a firm believer in safety and am a frequent clarion on IFI. Warnings and precautions can be taken too far though they desensitize the people who need a warning. Unfortunately the boy's been crying wolf so long they ignore him and warnings. A couple casters I know dewax with steam. No, they don't use a steam cleaner but they introduce water into the burnout kiln. Neither of them know each other, one lives here in the Mat Su Valley, the other on the east coast but there is a lot of similarity in their methods. About the only thing I remember about one method was to soak the mold before putting it in the kiln. I think another method was to put a pan of water in the kiln but I'm really fuzzy on that one. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Frosty

    Vise won't open

    No need to repeat your own post if nobody responds, if you make a habit of being impatient it'll irritate admin and the curmudgeons. Is there an ID plate on it? A name? If so look them up online and contact the maker. If not, estimate the size of the bolt, hit the hardware store bolt bin and buy a couple few as close as you can estimate. Go to a REAL hardware store, not a big box, real hardware stores have a better selection and might have replacement parts that'll work on your vise. You can ask the counter guy at a real hardware store and have a chance of him/er knowing the answer or where to look it up, they have order books galore. A counter guy at a big box isn't likely to know much of anything but how to ring you up. Another pointer is providing folk enough information to be able to give you meaningful answers. Bolt, isn't much info at all but you don't know what if anything special it's called. Next time you have this kind of problem take a picture so we have a better chance. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. There you go, it's a step nozzle/flare(?) I don't recall the name Mike. It acts in the same manner as a flare by increasing the area of the cross section in the mixing tube. Lengthening it increases the length of the flare and lowers pressure in the tube. This increases how much combustion air is drawn leaning the flame down. Nothing odd about it, this is how Mike fine tunes his burners. It also allows you to vary the forge atmosphere in real time. The T burner isn't designed to be tuned in real time, it's a variable I deleted from the basic design to keep it as simple as possible. Once a T is tuned that's it across it's psi range. It's been KISSed. Frosty The Lucky.
  11. Don't sweat it, nobody's born knowing this stuff and we're learning all the time. That IS a real anvil, put it to work but keep your eyes open for something more effective. Whatever you use to beat against is by definition an anvil. The London pattern is just a fairly recent shape and not the most common around the world. Please don't get locked into thinking The London Pattern is the Real anvil. The device we screwed into the top of: Penetrometer Rod, casing or drill rod to drive a split spoon sampler is the anvil and the automatic hammer we drove it with weighs 350 lbs. or 140 lbs. You don't drive a split spoon with the 350 or they crush and you have to pull everything to finish the hole. I was an exploration driller, drilling test holes for bridges and foundations. I only bring this up as an example of a 30 lb anvil being struck with a 350 lb hammer. The hammer delivers the energy the anvil receives it. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Oh Bo! Do you know how much I love a good straight line? Are you torturing me on purpose or is it just happenstance? Do you have any idea how hard it is to type while biting my tongue this hard? Frosty The Lucky.
  13. Glad you delurked good to see you posting. I had to look a few times but that has to be a shadow or something pattern to make it look like the anvil has sagging skin. It's too grainy to see much. She's seen some use though most of the wear is at the hardy hole sort of like small square stock was being bent in it. One edge has been radiused nicely and I can see very little edge damage. It looks like it sat in a garden too many years. In general it's a gracile anvil, long thin heel and thin waist similar to my Soderfors. I don't see any obvious forge marks so if I had to guess from these pics I'd say it's cast. It isn't cast iron though, I'd put a few bucks on that, the damage to the hardy hole doesn't look like iron, it looks like steel. The horn is still sharp and iron anvils tend to have blunt horns or they break under use. Were I looking for an anvil I'd give serious thought to making the drive unless it's crazy far say >4 hrs one way. Let us know what you do and find out. If you go take a ball bearing with you and give it a rebound test. Brush as much crud off it as you can, drop the bearing and estimate how far back it bounces as a %. This is just an eyeball test for now and it's going to bounce dead because of the rust and dirt but it's an indication. You might be better off using a SMALL ball pein hammer and tapping a pattern across the face listening for sudden changes in tone. It'll sound pretty dead for the dirt and rust but sudden tone changes will tell the story. Expect rebound and tone to change gradually as you work from the center towards the heel, the thinner section will have a lower rebound and different tone. Frosty The Lucky.
  14. Not so odd really, sliding the nozzle in or out is how Mike fine tunes his burners. Even slight changes in induction change the fuel air ratio. You get it pretty close with the regulator and air valve but it takes finer control to get the FAM just right Hmmmm? Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Come ON man, that's not a crate of beer, it's an Alaskan 12 pack. I like the hand truck, I'd even clear a spot in the shop for it to live. Frosty The Lucky.