Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc

I got the anvil stand done to day. I think it turned out nice. It's 26" tall x 12', and it still has a nice rebound with the sand, ( I was not sure how that would work out ) There is no rocking at all, and I can move it around with the D-rings. The plan is to put it in the shop and leave it there, my forge is on wheels so I can move it as needed.

I Well round one, stand 10 me 0... nice and flat on one side,not so much on the other..I need to step back and think...

My old anvil stump rotted away! I decided to replace it with one made of treated yellow pine. I hope that this one may last as long as I'll need one! I built it in two stacked tiers of closely spaced stringers. The bottom tier has stringers running perpendicular to the long axis of my anvil. The next tier is built with the stringers running parallel to the long axis of my anvil. I used treated two X eights for the stand and pre drilled for nails. I used 5" galvanized ring shank spikes to join with. The finished stand is 14 3/4" tall and 22" X 16" overall. I bought two 16' lengths but had 11 feet leftover. The stand is now in use and is much better than the old st…

Made some progress on the anvil stand last night, hope to finish it up tonight and start on my post vise mount. This is for my 155 lb. Hay Budden anvil. Used a 1" thick piece of steel for the plate, 2" x 4" x 1/4" for the legs, & 1/4" plate for the feet. Set the legs at 15 degrees off vertical. Had to preheat the plate to get good burn in. Was shooting for the top of the anvil to be around 32" high, kind of missed on that one, but it's a little over 30" and is still slightly higher than my knuckles, so it should be all good. Going to coat the stand contact area with Sikaflex 11FC polyurethane adhesive. Still have to finish the front clamping de…

Forbidden thus new thread Again! If you ask two blacksmiths... but it really depends on the anvil, your work habits your location your..... If you have a heavy anvil you do not need to tie it down. My 250 pound anonymous north Swedish type stands rock solid on its stump. My 80 pound Kohlsva London pattern is tied down. I have used four 6" square section nails and one result is a very obvious silencing of the ring. For both anvils, I have made sure that there is a thigh fit between all four corners of the anvil feet and the stump. Anvil undersides are not perfectly flat so this is important. Not only for stability but also for dampening of sound. Both stumps have been cut…

Hi, I was looking around the forums to make a new anvil stand since I out-grew my other one. I cam across a sandbox anvil stand which I am thinking is perfect. The only problem is that I am a little confused on gow it works, and how to make one. Does the anvil just sit on sand? Also, if I am going to make one I don't have a welder so it will have to be a basic design. I was thinking of making the box out of plywood connected by angle iron, but I don't know how the inside of the stand works with the sand and what the anvil stands on. Can someone please help me out on how o make one, and if you have any pictures of sandbox stands that can help me understand how they work,…

Hi, I have a cast iron anvil stand with a fine crack that runs for about 8 or 10 inches from the bottom up towards a corner, but not into the corner. Would it be possible to silver solder the cracked stand? I looked at some other posts on here and saw other methods with mixed reviews. Thanks

This is my attempt at not being forbidden. I will try to get pics of the stand. The anvil and stand combined should weigh between 1100 and 1300 pounds.

Hi everyone, I was wandering what is your favorite kind of stands for your anvils. I know there is multiple choice out there and want to know what make it your favorite. Big log, stomp, 3 legged, 4 legged, a little bit bury in the dirt, on top of the dirt, on top of concrete, hand made from construction lumbers... etc etc... I'm not fixed right now on one to use for my anvil so that's why i want to know what you guys like.

The timbers are 4x6 oak that a friend planned for me, I'm leaving it unpainted for future modifications.

Wanted to share an anvil stand I built for a Hay Budden 162# I found recently (for 300$). I looked at a lot of pictures of others stands and incorporated various details. The wheels are solid rubber from Harbor Freight (6$ each) and they slide into the tubing feet. I showed in the pics how the wheels can be placed inside (so I can take the stand through my 36" basement door) or outside for more stable carting. The anvil is secured to the stand with corner angle iron with a nut tacked to it and a short bolt (excuse the paint on the anvil - I got a tad carried away spray painting). I also bedded it in a layer of silicone calk. The bottom shelf is spaced 1 1/4" square to ho…

HI guys, What style of stand would you use for a portable anvil for use at shows etc? I won't be doing really heavy work on this anvil so I don't need the stand to be quite as heavy duty as my main shop anvil. A tripod style steel stand like the one seen here would be the easiest to make: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/28676-anvil-stands/?do=findComment Though I wonder if something like this wooden stand would "look" better. - I would find this more difficult to manufacture but they look a lot nicer. Which is something I think the general public pick up on. I'd be using my 100b fisher so I want to make use of the lugs for bolting the anvil down, I want the anvil to…

I wanted to start this new thread under this topic as I am kind of changing the subject. For all the men that gave me such good advice on buying my first anvil and what to look for I thank you. But for the last two weeks it's been sitting on the floor and I have been using it there but it needed a real stand of it's own. When I bought the anvil it came with the "stump" that he probably had been sitting on for the last 10 years or longer. it was too low at 18" and the top wasn't level. I have spent the last two weeks looking at options and I just got lost in the confusion as to what to do. So yesterday I had this idea or raising the stump I had and leveling and squar…

So, I have a nice 304# HB coming over from the U.S. in the next couple of months. I'm pondering over what sort of stand to prepare for its arrival. I know the height of the anvil, so I can make a stand to suit. It's no problem to find a hefty gum stump, set it in the ground and anchor the anvil down with steel straps, chain or bolts, but maybe there is a better way. I have read in this forum that Hay Budden anvils have a strident ring, so perhaps there are ways of reducing the ring for the sake of ear protection. (I don't have near neighbours so that's not a problem.)I've got to say I prefer the dull thud of hammer on anvil than an ear-piercing peal of bells. It will be a…

I really like the way this turned out. 3 ft of RR track and some oak boards from a salvaged pallet.

Hey guys, I'll include a pic if I can figure out how, but I made my stand to be rather light out of 2x12's, and I'm wondering if y'all think 4 lag screws with chain tightening the anvil down will take the stress. My concern is that lag bolts will pull out of the 2x12 over time, I was going to tighten it pretty good with a air wrench. Also I want to put a layer of silicon to deaden the noise. I wish I had put bolts and washer in before I glued and screwed the xxxx out of it. Hindsight is always 20/20.... My other idea is to glue and screw 4x4's to the sides running lengthwise with the anvil. And run washers and bolts through that. Just wanted some second opinions. Thanks!

One method preparing an anvil stump. The following outlines the process of how I have prepared anvil stumps to provide flat parallel faces at each end of the stump. Tools needed: Router with 3/4" router bit. Carpenter's Level Shims (wedge/shingle type) Level work surface ( a floor ) Dry Wall Screws and screwdriver 1 x 2 wood furring strip scraps Section of tree trunk (Stump) For the sake of clarity I will use: " 1 x 2 Way to mean the 1 x 2"s screwed to the stump. (a level surface on which the router rails slide) " 1 x 2" Rail to mean the 1 x 2's screwed to the routed base First shim and wedgie the tree "Stump" bas…

Picked this anvil up for $250 including the stand, 6 nice pairs of tongs, a cross pien hammer and 4 steak turners. A former co-worker saw it and asked the customer if she would sell it and he gave me her number after she said yes. I told her $1 a pound would be a "family" price, and that most anvils like this go from $2-4 a pound. She talked it over with her sons and decided $250 was my price. I'm looking forward to forging on it this weekend. I believe it has slightly better rebound than my 150# Fisher and equal to my 300# Fisher. Hopefully bedding it in some caulk helps the ring. I'm spoiled with my Fishers quiet thwack. Here is her husband some years back…

Not sure if I should have placed this is the 'Anvils' forum, but that seems more about reviews of anvil types. Anyway, I want to know how critical is the height at which the anvil is set. I imagine that it would change depending on the stature of the person using it. I have read numerous times that the face of the anvil should be level with the knuckles of the clenched fist of the person standing beside it. Sounds reasonable enough, but is that 100% cast iron certain or open to adjustment?? The reason I ask is that the anvil I use mostly for demos is set on a 2ft diameter hardwood stump about 18 inches into in the ground. It was originally set up by a bloke a bit smaller …

I've been searching different anvil bases and trying to decide which is better. Steel or Wood? I've seen some real nice 3 leg and a few 4 leg steel. Some tree stumps and some laminated 2x12's. Is one any better than the other or is it more personal preference. I have the ability to fabricate out of wood or steel. Just wondering if one is superior to the other and for what reason. Thanks

Ok so I have been researching making a 3 legged metal stand for one of my anvils. My first question is about transference of weight as in making the stand heavier yet still quiet and have the weight actually be useful. The few things I have researched Fill the posts with sand/oil to help deaden the noise. Proper angle for the legs and stand height are all things I have accounted for. So I have a 2"x12"x12" piece of steel that I wanted to incorporate. However it has a 1/4" bow to it so in order to lay the anvil directly on top of that I need to grind it down some how. I was thinking of making this the bottom of a foot tall sand box basically so from the groun…

Hey guys, I'm new and in need of advice. I'd like to build an anvil stump since a cliff carroll is out of my price range at the moment. The hangup is I have to haul the anvil and stand in and out of my truck several times a day, and I'm a bit of a little person, so weight is a real issue. Any lower weight designs out there? If it helps I have a 100lb dovetail Scott

I would like to make a steel anvil stand from some square tube from my scrap pile. I have plenty of 6" x 6" x 1/4" steel tube and plenty of 3" x 4" x 1/4" steel tube. I don't know if I should do a post style bolted to the shop floor or do the tripod style. What is the best choice of material(s) to fill the tube(s) with to dampen sound (oil, oil/sand, compressed air?). Below is a pic of the 2 anvils (160# peter wright and a 120# WBB)

Same stand Although not finished , as in holders for tools mounted around the edges or ends, this stand works. Top deck is 3/4 drop from steel company with 2x2x1/4 legs. Legs are filled with sand and oil, that is installed through sunken flush plugs under the anvil. Only two bolts hold the anvil steadily when tightened on the angle-iron clamps. Noise: on the nose and body...very little : on the heel...a bit loud but acceptable Vibration: yes because it is not yet mounted into concrete there is NO cushioning between anvil base and mounting unit Anvil: Kohlswa 125ish, a little low for some, 28 inch tall to top Future: hooks for the bicycle chain strap,…

DISCLAIMER: I am new to blacksmithing but not new to "mechanical things" or "fabrication"... I have been reading for weeks on internet forums and looking at many images of anvil stands and have come to conclusion there is no definitive answer what constitutes a "proper anvil stand"... I have seen single pipe columns and single vertical 'I" beams , and three legged and four legged welded steel and traditional wood "stumps" and laminated 2x4 and 4x4 and large (300 lb) concrete stands and various indescribable concepts.... I have a 100lb anvil and have fabricated a 4 legged stand and am having trouble leveling stand.. Ahhh!!! Everyone will say the "one leg to lon…