John in Oly, WA

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About John in Oly, WA

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    Olympia, WA

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  1. Nice! That's about the specs of mine. It's a fun build, be sure to post pics on the progress! We love pics!
  2. I agree, nice blade work! What's the blade metal?
  3. First off, I'd start a new thread focused on this forge, rather than tack on to this old thread. Second, I'd close down those two big holes in the ends of the forge, you're losing all your heat.
  4. LBS - Nice output of work! Your rattlesnake made me think of a paper towel holder. Make the tail go straight up a bit taller so the rattle would just stick out the top of the paper towel roll, and maybe bring the head up a little to act as the (whatever the tear off edge stop thing would be called). EJ - those stick welders are "fun" LOL As long as the welds will hold, I figure that's what angle grinders were made for. Me - I just continued work on converting my kiln to digital control.
  5. I hear ya. I've done some multi pass welding to get bigger stuff together with my 135. Then I bought a stick welder for the bigger stuff - now that's a learning experience I'll be working on for some time. And with the little MIG, I thought I was getting pretty good at welding - LOL! That stick welding's just embarrassing.
  6. Thanks! Nice to know. I'll have to do some experimenting.
  7. Hey Das, cool new addition to the shop! Gotta love those new additions to the tool collection! I have a welder like your Lincoln sitting in the background of your photo - a 135Plus. It's nice for the thinner stuff.
  8. A knife I made from an old flat file in high school shop class 40 years ago. Probably wouldn't even be allowed to make one in school these days. Even back then, the shop teacher kept it locked in his office when I wasn't in class.
  9. Thanks Theo. That makes sense. I've just started playing with a home printer and I'm finding that out - the resolution isn't great. It'll work for some things, but for high quality/high resolution, the commercial printers can't be beat.
  10. Lanternnate - How durable is the blackening? I tried something similar using copper sulphate pentahydrate (Root Kill at the orange box store) in water and a copper wire for an anode. It coated the piece with a nice copper shine, but rubbed off very easily.
  11. That is something most people seem to have ignored - that "recycle" is the last resort on the triangular logo. Reduce, reUSE, recycle.
  12. The wheels I picked up on eBay from oregonblademaker. The tracking adjustment is just a door hinge I welded to the top angled square tube. If you look closely at the bottom two pictures - the top most wheel, you'll see a brass knob. That's the tracking adjustment. I drilled a hole in the door hinge for a 5/8" bolt, slid the bolt through and welded the bolt to the door hinge. The tracking wheel slides onto that bolt. Lined up the hinge on the upper square tube and welded the other leaf of the hinge to that. Welded a nut to the bottom side of that square tube and ran a bolt through it to contact the bottom edge of the hanging hinge leaf (actually welded a bit of an extension to that bottom edge of the hinge. Ran a spring onto the bolt before screwing it into the welded on nut just to keep some tension on it to hold it in place. Cast some brass knobs onto all the adjuster bolts just for fun.
  13. Then there's these Milwaukee hook utility knife blades - pack of 100 for about $10-$11 on eBay.
  14. Nice Theo! I'll be tuning in. I'd like to hear more about your 3D printing and casting experiences. Mainly because I just bought a 3D printer kit with the idea of printing and casting parts and pieces and am wondering if PLA works for this or if I need to go to something like that Moldlay wax-like filament. Or are you printing straight to metal?