Charles R. Stevens

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About Charles R. Stevens

  • Rank
    Apprentice Curmudgeon
  • Birthday 10/24/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bradley Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Horses, horse drawn equipment, and blacksmithing.


  • Location
    Bradley, Oklahoma
  • Biography
    J.O.T., father, son and freind
  • Interests
  • Occupation

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  1. Consider hooking up with the Saltfork Craftsmen, they are the states artistic blacksmith assosiation. Good peaple in general.
  2. best wishes and a knee bent. For both you and the Mrs.
  3. Inspiration is why I started this thread
  4. So those whe came before us used a tool very much like what we call a rivet header, that is a thick bar with a series of graduated holes punched in it, and one end forged down to make a confortable handle. So you used tie bolster to back up our punch and kept it from mushrooming against the anvil. Larger holes were simple bars bent into a ring or U. Most bottom tools whe acualy handled to tops held by an apprentice. Now for us, not great because we work alone, a peice of 1/2 plate 3-4" square is relitively easy to make a square hole in, and weld to a corasponding drop of heavy wall tubing, walla portable hardy hole, sleeper plates from the rail way have 7/8" holes, and can de bolted to a stump to provide the same, if you don't have a see to a drill press, one can use a peice of heavy wall square tubing with the right inside mesuments, te next size up tubing can be welded on to make a coller. This is best in exes in a stump, but some have welded them to the side of their "anvils" look at an armorers bench, it may have several workstations, anvil on one end, mabe a bolster plate on the other. Some times you see a block anvil with a chisel wedged into the stump as a hot cut and a heavy round bar bent over and stuck into a hole in the stump as a horn. (I like L shaped bicks with a round taper on one leg and square taper on the other) depending wich end is up, you have a square or round bick (no welder needed, just a forge, anvil, hammer and file...
  5. Several ways to reduce the air, one forge I have is regulated buy moving the hair drier back from the tuyere, so their is about a 2" gap, and the needed air just hits the hole. Another uses a inflatable bed/pool inflator with a 3/4 inch valve. Originally it was in line, but increased the noise level, now their is a T and the valve exhausts exse. The tird uses a manual two stage bed inflator, esentualy a box bellows. Keep working at it, heck 4 kids blowing into pipe will bring charcoal to forging temp, not real hard. Mic your on the wher side of the Arcadias, forge fuel should be easy, plenty of small wood being cut off or right of ways by the hyway department and utilities, not to mention building scrap. 2x4 funks make fine charcoal, the ash is light and blows away. No accumulation .you might have to build a proper indirect heat kiln to keep the neighbors from calling EQ on you tho. The direct methods generate a lot of smoke.
  6. Many more knowlagable smiths recommending mounting rail on end, I built this anvil to inspire new smiths like you to look at what they can acquire economically where they are that will make a functional anvil.
  7. Charcoal and side blast forges just go to gether, that and less air... You will find that a 3/4"-1" side blast tuyere (2/4" gas pipe is about 7/8") works very well, it's not complicated. A hair dryer is to much air, even a pancake fan from an old PC is usualy over kill, so some method of regulation is nessisary. I just use a T and a valve to waste extra air.
  8. Either way you have to get the steel into the center of the fire. Use your google foo and look at comer tail pots, centaur forge and such lists the dementions for pots they sell. Typically a pot is about half as deap as it is wide. So a 8" fire ball needs to be about 4" deap
  9. I have a pro forge, it could benifit from a kiln wash and it is not very durable as a truck or trailer mounted unit. Buy an extra side port stainless bar and an extra door handl. Otherwise not a bad forge for heating 4 shoes at a time. but you can build one for much, much less, and a one burner unit of 1/2 the footprint. Would do 90% of what a hobiest needs.
  10. Their is a question of liability and personal safty, so the owner and moderators tend to do just that. We also have a master electrician or two lurking around as well. But the truth is that single phase 110/120 and 220/240 isn't exactly rocket science (bet we have one of those lurking around as well) but one needs to do your research as shock and fire hazards are a real risk. Properly grounding a metal housing is a real good idea, as a short to the case, even with a path to ground threw you is not likely to trip a standard breaker, make sure you do not combine or cross the common and the ground, as this will get you bit. As to 12vdc motors, some will run on 120vac, as will some 120vac will run on 12vdc. Not all by any case, but one will find that most hair driers will, tho its against the odds, it sure isn't a blanket statement. The same goes for reastats and electric motors, some will work some won't, some will last a long time some won't, some will over heat the reastat, some won't. So, that said either learn about basic AC wiring or consult a compitent electrition.
  11. Honestly take time to look at what others have done, repurposed mower decks, 5 gallon buckets, wooden boxes, 55 gallon drums, a hole dug in the yard, old sinks... lots of ways to scrounge up the parts to get started, then if you want somthing fancier, you now have a tool to make the tools and parts you need.
  12. dont use too light a material, my first set wanted to hang open (luan door skin) had to glue a washer to the back of all 5
  13. Inertube material works well, it has a bit of stretch but not enugh to wory about. Viton isn't supper flammable myou will cut the thicker strip that goes against the rim off (reserve for valves), this will give you a peice the size of the OD of the tube and a bit over 3 times that length. Readily addapted to constitina bellows
  14. You can always cut down the barrel, cut the back third off, cut off the front lip and an inch or two of barrel and press the two to gether. Insulate and now you have a forge and a heat treat oven. Bonus you won't freeze bottles as fast, burning threw money so fast and have the DEA showing up thinking you have a meth lab do to having a dozen 20# cans (don't ask))
  15. Nope, it should look like this...