Charles R. Stevens

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About Charles R. Stevens

  • Rank
    Apprentice Curmudgeon
  • Birthday 10/24/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bradley Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Horses, horse drawn equipment, and blacksmithing.


  • Location
    Bradley, Oklahoma
  • Biography
    J.O.T., father, son and freind
  • Interests
  • Occupation

Recent Profile Visitors

12,138 profile views
  1. Ol' rusty build

    Nope, that's "eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee..."
  2. Hello from Canada!

    Not to discorage you, but you will find forged in fire and man at arms to be very "hollywooded up". On the up side, a coal forge or a propaine forge is a very economical alternitive to a rose bid for heating large stock. Also bending and shaping stock with forge and anvil will save an great amount of grinding. Punching and drifting can also save drilling. The two skills will mesh well, improving your value to yourself as well as futue employers.
  3. Ol' rusty build

    I here " kathunka, kathunka, kathunka... in the near future!
  4. Civil War era blacksmith wagon

    Be carful, a cason and shoring is in order, having it cave in on you would make you an archilogical find in the future. You may also want to review your countries laws concerning such archilogical finds. some contries can get snarky about it. Tho some of us would like a first hand report of the iron work in your local prison, you may not wish to be the one giving it. That said, I have no plan to rat you out. As to lead, iron and stone. If I was affixing an iron fixture to a cave wall 150 years ago, drilling a hole, and inserting or poring led into the hole with the iron fixture would be how I would do it. We still use lead anchors today.
  5. Pre-newbie intro

    Not as of yet...
  6. Ol' rusty build

    Drill and tap the anvil, with 1/2 plate one can use countersunk head 1/2" bolts with Allen or torx heads. as to welding, post heat to 500 and let cool slowly (in ash, lime or vermiculite).
  7. Unknown homemade tool ?

    Smoke man, most of us burn 16" splits. They fit n 18-24" fire box and a good general purpose chainsaw has a 16" bar. Makes measuring easy. The wedge is missing and as pointed out, it isn't a gravity powers tool
  8. Pre-newbie intro

    Welcome to the forum, strait jackets on the right, meds on the left. Keep your hands off my crayons! Certainly learning hands on from an experienced smith will speed your skill development, but like all things in blacksmithing don't let that stop you. We can help you find a suitable anvil. It might not be a london patern. It may very well just be a large hunk of steel. We can help you set up a forge for $20 or less. Find and dress hammers and lay hands on somthing to use as tongs. All up, $100 or less and we can get you forging. We can even coach you as to how to corect your mistakes and how to forge items.
  9. Ol' rusty build

    How wide a stock are you planning on working? How big is the hammer and anvil? Side loading will cause wear and stress. The with of the anvil or hammer is about right. The diagonal sets are usualy profiled to provide two working surfaces look at stormcrow's hammer and the knives he turns out. .
  10. Starting off

    Will, vice grips suck, Chanel locks work better. Welcome abourd Snow. I am working in the Mark III box of dirt forge now. Other forge ideas The first up is the Mark I box of dirt. I acualy prefer the double action bed pump because it is quite and you don't need a valve to control the air for charcoal. Second is a very effecent charcoal design, what is not shown is that 3-4" below the table top is the tuyere and a dug out fire bowl, probably a 4x8 trench. Last is a portable set up a member takes with him. Backpacking around Eastern Europe. He has a handcart for the anvil and tools.
  11. Ol' rusty build

    If you use a 4"+ square of 1/2" and weld the rail head die diagonal you have room for two bolts on the plate and the stock is now worked diagonal and long stuff clears the upright post. A slot and wedges would work as well, but carving it out would he a pita
  12. Trying something new Advice is welcome

    As you can only hand forge about 6" of steel with out a striker or power hammer, I would not have used two tuyere, bit if you wanted a 6x12 hot spot then I would have left out the reduces plugs and gone in from the side. May I make a suggestion that sounds compleatly idiotic? Take thi Use bricks to the other side of your forge table and build a forge. This and some mud will let you experiment in a medium a bit easier to modify than steel. Your basic fire pot will work, infact I have seen demonstration forges at the Saltfork crafts men that use a trench e single 2" tuyere in the center works, or a 3/4" one from the side (from the side you can burn charcoal or coal) the vacuumed is noisy and way to much air. Try a bathroom vent fan and some kind of air gate.
  13. Forge issues

    As I said over on the other post, if you have access to a lathe or a drill press you can wip up a handle likely split. As to the bracket, can you fabricate a new one? You are a blacksmith right?
  14. beginner shop

    Brake drums are a PITA. A wooden box, one of those cheep fake wastubs from wall mart (the one s they want you to put ice in) for 8$ a drain pan, a 55 gallon drum will work. If you realy want to spend the $ on pipe fittings order an 8" into 2" T it will have a 8" opening on one side of the T, a 2" poise to and a 2" coming out the side. Makes a very solid fire pot, just forge an "S" out of 1/2" and use it for a grate down in the bottom. I will see if I can get a picture of Gerald's set up next month at the Saltfork annual pow wow.
  15. Show me your Forge

    Do you have access to a drill press or lathe? Either one will make quick work or the handle issue. It looks like your rivet forge is plenty deep. Adobe will be fine to sculp a nice fire bowl and or trench, even if you don't notch the sides. Cast is touchy to weld, even to braze some times, fish plates are certainly an option or just fabricate a new bracket, your a blacksmith, right?