Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Charles R. Stevens

Members
  • Content Count

    8,714
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Charles R. Stevens

  • Rank
    Apprentice Curmudgeon

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bradley Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Horses, horse drawn equipment, and blacksmithing.

Converted

  • Location
    Bradley, Oklahoma
  • Biography
    J.O.T., father, son and freind
  • Interests
    horses
  • Occupation
    farrier

Recent Profile Visitors

17,602 profile views
  1. To clarify, the valve and air supply are inline and the tuyere is 90 deg.
  2. I have melted hard fire brick and burnt the bottom out of the MK III with an electric bed pump. My working forge uses a “T” and a valve the air enters at 90 deg, and vents out the open valve. try substituting wood ash for the lime, and jar test your clay soil. My original experiments were with Oklahoma red clay strate from the bottom of post holes I was digging. A good Adobe mix of 1 pat clay to two parts sand works well, the addition of the ash helps with the tendency for slag to stick to the clay.
  3. I like the rule of three. give them three reasons why it’s the nice thing to do. give them three reasons why it’s there job and then if all else fails, three reasons why your lawyer will be contacting them... very rare is the time I have to resort to more than two reasons why it’s nice and only once have I had to resort to the last step...
  4. Actually I am welding hardy shanks on them and forging the ends down to form one square and one round bick.
  5. I use the 12” long flats myself, I just do so vertically for straitening. I do have a selection of slices for smaller anvils, this one would make a nice double bick for a jeweler
  6. So cut the smaller tank in half, making a 7” by 10.5”. Flip it cut end down and put the burner in the end, cut a pair of hatches. Repeat and trade the second to a buddy... 7” is more than enugh, moving back and forth you can heat almost a foot to critical. 4-6” of hot steel is plenty for most forging
  7. Otherwise you waste 1/2 to 2/3 your fuel heating empty space, or worse more steel than you can forge.
  8. For efficiency I suggest one general forge for forging and one for heat treating blade lengths over 8-10”. So that would be a single burner forge capable of heating a 6” working length and then a two or even three burner for long blades .
  9. Don’t forget the oatmeal porage, as it’s an intricate part of sealing up a riveted pot...
  10. C clamp and heat As the corners are rounded don’t worry about upsetting the corners and your on the right track going long and curing to length (that’s how most of us do it) use the draw bar as an anvil/form after your initial bend over the side of your anvil and squaring it up (drive down on the head to help form the corner) a slight radius won’t hurt in this application. Another option is simply to drill a hole top to bottom, Fuller and round up to fit and rivit.
  11. Building anvils can quickly run you into more cost in time and consumables (welding rod/wire, gas, abrasives, heat treat etc..) especially when your starting out and don’t really understand what makes a a good anvil. For centuries a smallish hunk of wrought was an anvil, and after thousands of hours of use the top actually mushroomed over making it wider at the top. Unless you heat treat 9018 isn’t going to be much harder than A36 or 1018 anyway.
  12. Other than cutting track plates up for stock, the only use except holding track to sleepers I have found is as small hardy tool plates. As always make sure you acquire track steel leagaly.
  13. I saw that residential code has gone to grounding to the reenforcing steel in the foundation. Of corse wether the locals adopt it is any ones guess and wether that covers commercial as well.
  14. My oldest directed a stream of hard well water on a 10 mile fence will standing in the puddle from cleaning out the stick tanks....
×
×
  • Create New...