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I Forge Iron

Charles R. Stevens

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About Charles R. Stevens

  • Rank
    Apprentice Curmudgeon

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bradley Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Horses, horse drawn equipment, and blacksmithing.

Converted

  • Location
    Bradley, Oklahoma
  • Biography
    J.O.T., father, son and freind
  • Interests
    horses
  • Occupation
    farrier

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  1. I like the rule of three. give them three reasons why it’s the nice thing to do. give them three reasons why it’s there job and then if all else fails, three reasons why your lawyer will be contacting them... very rare is the time I have to resort to more than two reasons why it’s nice and only once have I had to resort to the last step...
  2. Actually I am welding hardy shanks on them and forging the ends down to form one square and one round bick.
  3. I use the 12” long flats myself, I just do so vertically for straitening. I do have a selection of slices for smaller anvils, this one would make a nice double bick for a jeweler
  4. So cut the smaller tank in half, making a 7” by 10.5”. Flip it cut end down and put the burner in the end, cut a pair of hatches. Repeat and trade the second to a buddy... 7” is more than enugh, moving back and forth you can heat almost a foot to critical. 4-6” of hot steel is plenty for most forging
  5. Otherwise you waste 1/2 to 2/3 your fuel heating empty space, or worse more steel than you can forge.
  6. For efficiency I suggest one general forge for forging and one for heat treating blade lengths over 8-10”. So that would be a single burner forge capable of heating a 6” working length and then a two or even three burner for long blades .
  7. Don’t forget the oatmeal porage, as it’s an intricate part of sealing up a riveted pot...
  8. C clamp and heat As the corners are rounded don’t worry about upsetting the corners and your on the right track going long and curing to length (that’s how most of us do it) use the draw bar as an anvil/form after your initial bend over the side of your anvil and squaring it up (drive down on the head to help form the corner) a slight radius won’t hurt in this application. Another option is simply to drill a hole top to bottom, Fuller and round up to fit and rivit.
  9. Building anvils can quickly run you into more cost in time and consumables (welding rod/wire, gas, abrasives, heat treat etc..) especially when your starting out and don’t really understand what makes a a good anvil. For centuries a smallish hunk of wrought was an anvil, and after thousands of hours of use the top actually mushroomed over making it wider at the top. Unless you heat treat 9018 isn’t going to be much harder than A36 or 1018 anyway.
  10. Other than cutting track plates up for stock, the only use except holding track to sleepers I have found is as small hardy tool plates. As always make sure you acquire track steel leagaly.
  11. I saw that residential code has gone to grounding to the reenforcing steel in the foundation. Of corse wether the locals adopt it is any ones guess and wether that covers commercial as well.
  12. My oldest directed a stream of hard well water on a 10 mile fence will standing in the puddle from cleaning out the stick tanks....
  13. We got part of that storm our selves, the sort answer is it depends on what kind of dirt is in your box. Hugh clay content is going to crack and spalled put as the matrix isn’t trying enough it’s unlikely the steam will reach high enough pressure to explode and send shrapnel everywhere. Damp is ok, the first Just a box of dirt was clay about the consistency of modeling clay when I lit it,
  14. These are my thoughts on the witloxs design is that it is more efficient as a coal forge than a charcoal forge. The fact that it uses wood, being thus converted to coals (hot charcoal) is great but it’s just so inefficient of fuel use. The bottom blast even in the Tim Lively design is less efficient with charcoal, requiring a deeper fire. Yes I have used one. Moving the tuyere to one side and level with or slightly above the bottom makes happier charcoal forges. Further the lively design is trying to both forge and heat treat blades. A dedicated forge for forging and another (or the
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