Charles R. Stevens

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About Charles R. Stevens

  • Rank
    Apprentice Curmudgeon

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bradley Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Horses, horse drawn equipment, and blacksmithing.

Converted

  • Location
    Bradley, Oklahoma
  • Biography
    J.O.T., father, son and freind
  • Interests
    horses
  • Occupation
    farrier

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  1. Don’t forget about the ball pein hammers, Glenn. Another gem are the long needle nose pliers that can be quickly modified to make a sevisable set of light tongs.
  2. Rail is 80point plus steal vs 60 point for spring, your doing a lot of work just to be going backwards. Know if you have a block of mild steel it might be worth the work, if you have the skills and tools to do it right. That includes preheating to 500f and spacing the plate so you can reach in to weld the plate from center out and not just around the edges. Then comes heat treat. Which depending on the size can get real complicated. TJWatts used two IBC tanks on forklifts and a pressure washer
  3. If you put the available subsoil in a jar (about a 1/4 full) and add water (about 2/3full) and give it a shake, you can see what proportion of clay, sand and wilt you have in the dirt. The sand will be on the bottom, the silt in the middle and the clay on the bottom. From there you can decide if you need to add anything to make better mud pies
  4. 30% clay, 50% sand. The remainder can be sand or silt. So do a jar test to see what you have to add. If you add dead grass or straw (about 1-1/2” long) it is best to let it Age a few days before you use it. The addition of wood ash will stabilize the clay (keep it from turning back to mud) and seems to help to keep coal Slag from sticking if you use coal at some point.
  5. I would suggest coming up with a cover of some kind if your leaving it outside of plan on making repairs. A good adobe mix will make for a more durable structure, especially the addition of fresh dried horse or cow manure.
  6. Dang, Pnut we might just displace the dreaded brake drum forge yet...
  7. Punt, I was trying to divert from the image of you peeing on your hands... Good to see your byline, Master Slag.
  8. There are two kinds of men TP, those who wash their hands before they go pee and those who wash them after... been the former most of my life!
  9. My experience says 4-5”. You want the center of the fireball at the level of the hearth, so with a 6-8” fire ball... Yes sir schedule 40. That gives you a 7/8” ID, if you use schedule 80 step up to 1” as the ID is almost 1”. I do have some big pressure stuff around here that is 2” OD and 3/4” ID if you want to get serous!
  10. So if you like the idea of a hole, start buy digging a 16” (knee) deep hole, perhaps make it a step. So now form the forge from the spoil from the hole. I use a Double Quick III bed inflating pump ($20) and an 8” schedule 20, 3/4” pipe nipple. So we start buy building up about half your spoil in a flat tiled pile, lay your pipe down so it ends 2” of center and laying facing to one side viewed from standing or siting in your hole. Now dig a 1” deep trench in front of the pipe 4” long. Now begin building up another 4” of dirt. So you have a 4” wide and 8” long trench with the opens end facing you and your pipe in one side (a 5deg or so down word angle is ideal) now take the remaining spoil and build two mounds on each side of the trench at least 4” high. This helps contain the charcoal over the metal your heating. Mad to using wood, taller side walls will slow this but a second fire just to generate embers is better, and just transfer them with a small shovel. this guy has a nice setup. this guy makes charcoal These illustrations May help
  11. When things get straitened out I need to get with TP about a piece of soap stone. It’s is more heat resistant than brick
  12. Yes but it’s probably better as trading material your basically going to fill the grill all the way up with dirt. You will only have a small bowl or trench not a big honking one. The rest will be working surface. Charcoal likes a 6-8” fireball. And my experience lends me to make trenches about 4” wide and about a foot long angle down at about a 45degree angle with a 3/4” schedule 40 pipe tuyere angled down about 5 degrees at one side and about an inch up from the bottom. Then extend a hill on each side of the trench to contain the fuel mound above the hearth this will give you the ability to heat a 1” bar 6” long
  13. Sandy has informed me that it is not acceptable to wear a plague doctors mask on my trips to the grocery store. The head straps are easier on ones ears.