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About tanglediver

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  1. Well PW104, it looks like it's to the island of misfit anvils for you....don't cry, maybe Santa can find you a home come Christmas time.
  2. It would be easier for you to modify the hand truck Frosty. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Now I am wondering, was this a large crate, as in forklift only size, or was it more of a milk crate size crate?
  3. Crossed Bandaid Brand, my favorite Road Runner ammo!!
  4. A WHOLE CRATE of beer?!?! Kind of a steep price, don't you think? Truth be told, I can't imagine your good fortune. Amazing! I am really happy for you though!
  5. So, here are the feet. They were a just a single leftover piece I cut into three to get just enough. Just need a flame job now, right? Give this thing a hot foot? The paint is actually just XO-Rust Rustoleum. Ez to touch up, ez to cover with any color.
  6. So, the quality and size being their own variables, you're looking at $3.38/ pound. For size, 170 pounds is on the high side of what you might call a "portable" anvil. You could try a ball bearing drop test to gauge quality, this one seems reasonably intact.
  7. That chunk does sound like it has similar proportions to a functional swage block.
  8. Not enough real estate, barely enough for a 1/2" hole and the weld beads.
  9. Nah, they are still open tubes. I am prepping some 3/8" bottom plates for them. I'll have to flip the whole thing upside down and weld the plates on (no I won't, that won't work...). Paint would get wasted. Besides, I didn't want red paint on the floor. Flames would be interesting though.
  10. The rods were Stoody 31 (supposed to be equivalent of 2110) and 1105. With the exception of rod diameter, I used 5/32 and 1/8 respectively, I did what I could to follow the Gunther & Schuler method exactly. http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm I preheated to 400 degrees, ran one layer of 31 rod, then one layer of 1105 rod. That's it, then I covered the entire thing in a wheel barrow full of vermiculite to slow the cooling down. I did this on a 100 degree plus July day, so there was no rapid cooling going on. It was still warm the next day. Once I got back to it, I ran a grind stone over it until only the deepest pits remained. That's a lot of what we call "padding" to burn into a flat surface, the goal being to keep the beads 1/2 overlayed on the previous one to cover the whole surface to a uniform depth. It may be that I ought to throw a layer of 7018 between the base metal and the hard surface rod, I am not sure. I believe I should contact Stoody and bounce it off of someone there.
  11. Agreed. Therein lies the question, "as long as". Who's to say when bits and pieces might let go under energetic work? Well, there is no rush, as I have other anvils which will never see my welder used on them!!