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About SReynolds

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/26/1970

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  • Location
    Mansfield Ohio Area
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing I guess.....................

    Dodge Ram Trucks (Cummins Diesel)

    Sleeping late


    John Deere Two Cylinders Tractors
  1. Joel OF I have watched a video provided many times. I understand what you mean about locking onto the jig as well as starting the scroll on the anvil. I do use pliers such as yours for many scrolling fixtures. I will have time this week to experiment with the jig. Thanks for the video.
  2. That copper piece appears to me as a drip pan. Lorelei's holder is a cup the base of candle fits into snugly. The wax will pass down candle base and fall to whatever is supporting the scroll. I want the drip pan.
  3. Those are quite nice. What are the two scrolls called at the base, where it is rolled tightly?
  4. Nothing is ignored, rejected nor defensive. I cannot show you what I'm making. I dont have any. The stock cannot be clamped to the jig. There is a 90° bend on it. Supposed to be there. What you see above in a picture is not what I'm making. That was demonstrating the jig isn't going to work for this project w/o modifications. This is a very complex scroll. It has a candle cup and drip pan riveted to the scroll. With a foot on the non scrolled end. There is a short 90° bend on each end. Lorelei Sims makes one. Featured in hwr book. This is similar. But I have added a rivet and a drip pan. Much more complex. The drip pan is 1/2 as thick as the flat stock scroll. When you heat the scroll, the drip pan burns away. Thus another problem to overcome. Again, hers is a candle cup only. No pan. No rivet. Simifies the work. Her cup has a small rivet forged at the base of cup. Be happy to take a picture of her project so you understand what this is. However its a scroll with a candle cup mounted at the top. But who builds candle holders which directs melted wax to run down the fixture onto the surface which it sets? Apparently Lorelei Sims. Mine will have the drip pan. This jig I modified is intended for this task. Not universal for scrolling.
  5. I have not posted nor taken a picture of the desired finished product. I dont have one. Other than the units I have made in past via a bending fork atop anvil. Each end has a very short 90° bend. They are opposite one another. I tested the modified jig at home in my shop and the very short 90° bend slips directly down into the gap and is held there while I scroll the flat stock. Again, I dont employ the entire scroll. If i desire to simply scroll for a common scroll I use the any of the bending forks or one of the home- made jigs with various sized collars to achieve desired size. The purpose? There was not any viable method inwhich to secure the flat stock to the jig.
  6. That is exactly what I want and desire. A crude "hook" or bend on the end. Each end. I dont have to forge it to a precise dimention to use the jig. The bend on the end slips down into the gap just fine. It isn't limited in any way. I'm making candle holders. Only half of the holder is a scroll. The other half is , well , not scrolled.
  7. That is what I do. Weld round stock to a hardie shank!! Love it !!!! Happy I'm not the only one who tackles tasks the easy way ! Need reins for my tongs; weld on round stock!! Gotta love it. And yes, the bottom fullers i have purchased or are in the tool collection at the national historical site are relatively short and yes, rectangular skirt ; The portion that rests atop the anvil face. That was the phrase I'm looking for! I will try another day to forge one with the "RECTANGULAR SKIRT" but need a horizontal bickern now..... I simply wanted to forge some hardie tooling as opposed to fabricate from torch/welder etc. It takes time to figure out all the steps employed in forging hardie tools. Thanks !
  8. You are not looking for the Lancaster Geared No. 1 You'd think I'm quoting Obi Wan but in reality, there isn't such. You are looking for simply the Lancaster.
  9. Pics of the modified scrolling jig. It almost works like it should. Not sure what else can be done but time will tell.
  10. That is exactly how i forge blunt tapers. I have not seen any bottom fullers outside of what is commonly seen. They are as wide as the hardie shank and quite long. About three times long as wide. And rather short.......
  11. It has been posted/presented on this site many a time; right handed/your anvil horn to your left. Left handed/your anvil horn to right. Now I'm reading differently in this thread. I dont subscribe to either method. I do what I desire. Two anvils each opposite one another. I have many suggestions from visitors and they must have good reason for me to change such as; if your anvil horn points south on a Friday, the heel will break off. Until I hear something to the effect, i will operate my blower with dominate hand and point the horn where I feel like.
  12. The block hardie is reference only That is what the work piece looks like when i finished the hardie shank process. Then I hold the work by way of the shank and forge the top into a bottom fuller. I need to try a different method when forging. That of laying it on the side and forging out the sides.
  13. Yes. I think. I don't know..... I'm visualizing laying it on a side. It don't matter at the start as it be square. Then drawing it to widen it, Not make it taller, rather wider. Difficult to explain. It works but looks like a rounded cut-off hardie and bottom fullers dont look like that. The overall width should be as wide as the hardie square shank but three times longer. Like the above picture of the bottom fuller. Wide as the shank. But three times longer. Not taller.....longer. I dont have my bottom fuller to take a pic of.
  14. I use them as well. Quite nice, if you have one that is well cared for. Otherwise they sound like a rock crusher. A friend just bought a 12" 400 for his brake drum forge for 250.00 I thought the idea of a brake drum forge was cost. They are nearly free to build. So a 250.00 blower on a brake drum is akin to .......well....something I'm sure!
  15. I began with 2" x2" x 4" long. I drew the hardie shank and fit that to anvil. Not a challenge. But when I forged the top section; taper it and round the top to form the fuller, the tool is tall and narrow. Not like a fuller which are slender and long. My work looked like the top photo when I began to forge the taper. But i wanted it to look like the bottom photo. How should i have drawn out the top section to provide width? It works fine as is. But looks like a cut-off hardie with a rounded top (as opposed to a knife-like edge) I hope I'm making some sense.......however.....the forum-site will now swap the photos so nothing i have said will make sense. Very strange website.