Tommytaptap

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About Tommytaptap

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    Carmarthen, UK
  1. New Workshop (Finally)

    Whats wrong with a hofi supersidesucker? You could have all of the chimney outside. You can have a proper job then-12" diameter x 3mtrs high for £65 off ebay-galvanised steel spiral ducting is what to type. Someone on here will point you to the hofi style.
  2. African wood

    A big +1 on the use of gloves when working that wood. Don't forget to wear good quality respirator suited to the tasks also-most of the African hardwoods are at the very least irritants-a few much worse for you than that. Cut a small piece, polish it and see what sort of chatoyance if any is present. You may be pleasantly surprised!
  3. Making a Workbench

    That old trick works very well with a sheared off or anyway stubborn machine bolt that's trapped eg engine block bolt. heat her up and twist her out-no problem.
  4. Railroad Steel

    Find out who the owner is and get their permission in writing to take some before removing anything. As far as I know, none of it will be high carbon steel of any note. As steel goes it will all be fairly 'soft.'
  5. How about forge cooking?

    Baked potato with butter, cheese and beans wrapped in h/d tinfoil works a treat. I have a dutch oven for larger meals but it would take up too much room and generally get in the way whereas a small spud is easy to move about. No doubt others will chip (scuse pun) in. Tom.
  6. Origami style crane

    Hi Joel- Very well done you indeed. A superb example of artisanal 'smithing at its best. It looks truly stunning. The two rails it is mounted on are a nice touch. I do hope its well fastened down to prevent it flying away. Can you tell us all the processes you executed to produce the piece? Tom.
  7. help me with anvil id

    You could always fall back on reddening some metal and making some. After a minimum of research after getting your head and fingers around the vagaries and anomalies of this forums workings- smacking some steel into various shapes will be a pleasure- guaranteed.
  8. The Start of My Coal Forge

    Henry Don't know if you've looked at the link supplied by LBS but the company don't ship to the UK which is a shame. However, all is not lost. I have also been looking for a pukka blower and came across this one on Ebay UK. Called a Bahcivan 140.60 theyre on sale in Germany for around £80 incl postage. They are even open to best offers on them! They are made specifically for blacksmith coal forges. They also sell potentiometers to vary the motor speed. Sorry don't know how to bring a link here but check out ebay-just type in bahcivan 140.60 . Tom. ps- managed to attach a picture of it!
  9. The Start of My Coal Forge

    Henry. I too have the same blower as yours. I don't know the technical details but I am given to believe that the motor in it is not one you can alter the speed of. I loosely fitted with one small bolt, a piece of Perspex to the induction grille side of it and that reduces the airflow somewhat by pulling the Perspex towards the grille. That combined with leaving a gap as described gives a much more reasonable flow. Tom.
  10. Hey Frosty- You seem to have lost all interest in your recent posting about a wood burning firegrate. Have you not seen the subsequent replies?
  11. wood fire grate

    Hi Frosty- Over this side of the pond, generally speaking I would, using a multi-fuel burner to burn wood; not use a fire grate at all. A grate holding other fuels like coal, charcoal etc. would need a grate to hold it up, to help circulate air to promote the fire and allow ash to drop through. Using wood of any sort as fuel, it is much better to allow it to sit on a flat solid bed of metal. (perhaps just a few small holes here and there to allow any water to drain through if left outdoors for any length of time) have the sides built up as far as you wish to hold the type of wood you will use. In the same way the a coal forge needs help from forced air to assist the fire-wood does not need anything else but the ambient air around it to burn successfully. In fact it burns better without a grate. There are thousands of ways you can do this and it is fair simply than constructing what you intend. For instance, here is a gas cylinder that has been modified albeit quite extensively but, it could be as simple as just cutting out a large enough hole in the side to accommodate your wood, a hole in the top for a chimney and some legs so as not to burn anything underneath it when in use. The second image is a far simpler affair. I just edited and included a third image which is the one I would go for. In fact, if you were to use a tall bottle, you could have a shelf in it around halfway up, solid steel welded in one, on which could sit your fire and the bottom half could be your 'wood store.' Just have a pull down side door to hold the wood/ash in until you open it to remove the ash!
  12. Show me your anvil stands

    A sure footed, four footed stand with 192lb anvil(make unknown)
  13. Total newbie - where to being with this anvil?

    As for 'borrowing'- permanently on loan is a term I sometimes use to decrease any guilty feeling, not that I ever have any but, just in case.
  14. rusty look

    Any sort of a matt finish to it wouldn't reflect light from it (which causes it to look too fabricated) and would give it a more natural, rusty look. I think.
  15. shop make-over - pic heavy

    A bit of spit an polish on the anvil face plate would add to the authentic 'working smithy' I think, maybe with a hammer and a 'piece' of work in progress lying atop it too. Marvellous array of old tools there, looks like it would take years to catalogue so much. Hope you've got it all secured and insured. Its a lot of valuable stuff there, if it were to be lost.