Tommytaptap

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About Tommytaptap

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    Carmarthen, UK
  1. wood fire grate

    Hi Frosty- Over this side of the pond, generally speaking I would, using a multi-fuel burner to burn wood; not use a fire grate at all. A grate holding other fuels like coal, charcoal etc. would need a grate to hold it up, to help circulate air to promote the fire and allow ash to drop through. Using wood of any sort as fuel, it is much better to allow it to sit on a flat solid bed of metal. (perhaps just a few small holes here and there to allow any water to drain through if left outdoors for any length of time) have the sides built up as far as you wish to hold the type of wood you will use. In the same way the a coal forge needs help from forced air to assist the fire-wood does not need anything else but the ambient air around it to burn successfully. In fact it burns better without a grate. There are thousands of ways you can do this and it is fair simply than constructing what you intend. For instance, here is a gas cylinder that has been modified albeit quite extensively but, it could be as simple as just cutting out a large enough hole in the side to accommodate your wood, a hole in the top for a chimney and some legs so as not to burn anything underneath it when in use. The second image is a far simpler affair. I just edited and included a third image which is the one I would go for. In fact, if you were to use a tall bottle, you could have a shelf in it around halfway up, solid steel welded in one, on which could sit your fire and the bottom half could be your 'wood store.' Just have a pull down side door to hold the wood/ash in until you open it to remove the ash!
  2. Show me your anvil stands

    A sure footed, four footed stand with 192lb anvil(make unknown)
  3. Total newbie - where to being with this anvil?

    As for 'borrowing'- permanently on loan is a term I sometimes use to decrease any guilty feeling, not that I ever have any but, just in case.
  4. rusty look

    Any sort of a matt finish to it wouldn't reflect light from it (which causes it to look too fabricated) and would give it a more natural, rusty look. I think.
  5. shop make-over - pic heavy

    A bit of spit an polish on the anvil face plate would add to the authentic 'working smithy' I think, maybe with a hammer and a 'piece' of work in progress lying atop it too. Marvellous array of old tools there, looks like it would take years to catalogue so much. Hope you've got it all secured and insured. Its a lot of valuable stuff there, if it were to be lost.
  6. High tech anvils

    But you might need a huge gearwheel from a large vehicle, such as an abandoned tank.
  7. large fireplace screen

    WOW! Now THAT IS a fireplace! Maybe a JCB to put the logs on? And-we're gonna need bigger tongs! Thanks for posting Kevin. I wonder how many hours went into the making of that superb screen? It looks like it is a working fireplace-the chimney must be a massive stack too.
  8. whats the purpose of this type vise ?

    They're not vises, they're works of real art! A few people on here could very easily make them into something really special. Reminds me of two people getting married-ie. at the altar. Tom.
  9. gave the trenton a vinegar bath

    In my experience, I have found that the most superior and long lasting finish for a cleaned anvil i.e. showing no rust- is to rub it all over with a bar/bars of beeswax and then gently heat that with a gas blow lamp flame until the wax melts and fills all the voids.(apart from the face which I just wipe with an oily rag.) Once its cooled and dried for a few days,it's a great finish. I did several pieces with it over a year ago and still no signs of oxidisation and the parts are not at all sticky to the touch. Here is a mild steel ladle that had the treatment last spring.
  10. Unknown anvil

    Thanks, Thomas. I stand corrected on the weight markings-it being an American made anvil. It'll be interesting to see how old she is too.
  11. Unknown anvil

    The name stamped into it looks like Hay Budden, made in Brooklyn New York. They stopped making anvils in 1920's so its an old girl. I think the weight markings show its should be around 226lb. The figure (1) = 112ib(or one hundredweight) (4) = 112lbs(or four quarters) and (2) = 2lbs. It will be slightly lighter no doubt, due to its age, losing some metal in oxidisation and general use along its travels. Just use this fine old tool as it is-do not attempt any repairs-it will be ruined. Others will chirp in too on this.
  12. Whats your worst injury?

    Sometimes, re-engaging brain when carrying out a repetitive hand action is beyond us. Peening over the end of a mild steel rivet onto the body of a padlock with an engineering hammer whilst the spare hands' index finger is still examining previous attempts brings an extreme instantaneous pain to remind you but by then, its far too late! The upside was there are only so many stitches you can fit onto an index finger-throb throb!!
  13. oil drum forges

    Its rebar Jim but not as we know it! A genuine rustic, period, handcrafted, piece of history-hand forged, worked and finished. A fine addition to the blacksmiths formidable arsenal, maintaining the greatest tradition in crafting tools. Well done missourikid-keep on forging.
  14. Forge Destroyed by Fire

    Hi. Very sad to read this terrible bad news. Hope the firefighter is okay and that nobody else was injured. Looks like he will bounce back from this though-hopefully. Me, I prefer coke to propane every time. Good luck Steve.
  15. Finally managed to get an Anvil

    Nice anvil Nthn. I have a similar one of around the same age but weighs somewhat more(around 190lb.). Mine has a depression along and across the sweetest/strongest part of around 1/16th inch. I marked its rough limits across the face with a silver streak welders marking pencil and renew the mark periodically to remind me where not to try to hit my work too much. I am hoping in this way that I won't make it any deeper(I know it won't level it out- I dont have 100 years left in me he he!) I tend to do lighter work on the swayed area and heavier work(not too heavy) outside that area. Works fine for me. My advice would be to do some good research on stands. Wood is good but metal is better. Some go for 4 legs, others swear by 3. Mine came with a quality made 4 leg and suits me fine. They do say a 3 is best for steadiness i.e. non wobbling but, if it is knocked sideways by something heavy it can tip over-not good! The base of my anvil is around 12" by 10" but the feet of the stand are at 27" by 25"-steady as a rock from all angles. All your anvil needs is a good old wire wheeling on drill or grinder around the whole body apart from the face. Just give the face a good hand wire brushing, some light 240 grit hand sanding, another brush and plenty of oil on it all over everywhere-wire brush it in to it. From then on just an oily cloth wipeover weekly and leave the cloth over the face when not in use is all you'll need.