Tommytaptap

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About Tommytaptap

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    Carmarthen, UK
  1. A sure footed, four footed stand with 192lb anvil(make unknown)
  2. As for 'borrowing'- permanently on loan is a term I sometimes use to decrease any guilty feeling, not that I ever have any but, just in case.
  3. Any sort of a matt finish to it wouldn't reflect light from it (which causes it to look too fabricated) and would give it a more natural, rusty look. I think.
  4. A bit of spit an polish on the anvil face plate would add to the authentic 'working smithy' I think, maybe with a hammer and a 'piece' of work in progress lying atop it too. Marvellous array of old tools there, looks like it would take years to catalogue so much. Hope you've got it all secured and insured. Its a lot of valuable stuff there, if it were to be lost.
  5. But you might need a huge gearwheel from a large vehicle, such as an abandoned tank.
  6. WOW! Now THAT IS a fireplace! Maybe a JCB to put the logs on? And-we're gonna need bigger tongs! Thanks for posting Kevin. I wonder how many hours went into the making of that superb screen? It looks like it is a working fireplace-the chimney must be a massive stack too.
  7. They're not vises, they're works of real art! A few people on here could very easily make them into something really special. Reminds me of two people getting married-ie. at the altar. Tom.
  8. In my experience, I have found that the most superior and long lasting finish for a cleaned anvil i.e. showing no rust- is to rub it all over with a bar/bars of beeswax and then gently heat that with a gas blow lamp flame until the wax melts and fills all the voids.(apart from the face which I just wipe with an oily rag.) Once its cooled and dried for a few days,it's a great finish. I did several pieces with it over a year ago and still no signs of oxidisation and the parts are not at all sticky to the touch. Here is a mild steel ladle that had the treatment last spring.
  9. Thanks, Thomas. I stand corrected on the weight markings-it being an American made anvil. It'll be interesting to see how old she is too.
  10. The name stamped into it looks like Hay Budden, made in Brooklyn New York. They stopped making anvils in 1920's so its an old girl. I think the weight markings show its should be around 226lb. The figure (1) = 112ib(or one hundredweight) (4) = 112lbs(or four quarters) and (2) = 2lbs. It will be slightly lighter no doubt, due to its age, losing some metal in oxidisation and general use along its travels. Just use this fine old tool as it is-do not attempt any repairs-it will be ruined. Others will chirp in too on this.
  11. Sometimes, re-engaging brain when carrying out a repetitive hand action is beyond us. Peening over the end of a mild steel rivet onto the body of a padlock with an engineering hammer whilst the spare hands' index finger is still examining previous attempts brings an extreme instantaneous pain to remind you but by then, its far too late! The upside was there are only so many stitches you can fit onto an index finger-throb throb!!
  12. Its rebar Jim but not as we know it! A genuine rustic, period, handcrafted, piece of history-hand forged, worked and finished. A fine addition to the blacksmiths formidable arsenal, maintaining the greatest tradition in crafting tools. Well done missourikid-keep on forging.
  13. Hi. Very sad to read this terrible bad news. Hope the firefighter is okay and that nobody else was injured. Looks like he will bounce back from this though-hopefully. Me, I prefer coke to propane every time. Good luck Steve.
  14. Nice anvil Nthn. I have a similar one of around the same age but weighs somewhat more(around 190lb.). Mine has a depression along and across the sweetest/strongest part of around 1/16th inch. I marked its rough limits across the face with a silver streak welders marking pencil and renew the mark periodically to remind me where not to try to hit my work too much. I am hoping in this way that I won't make it any deeper(I know it won't level it out- I dont have 100 years left in me he he!) I tend to do lighter work on the swayed area and heavier work(not too heavy) outside that area. Works fine for me. My advice would be to do some good research on stands. Wood is good but metal is better. Some go for 4 legs, others swear by 3. Mine came with a quality made 4 leg and suits me fine. They do say a 3 is best for steadiness i.e. non wobbling but, if it is knocked sideways by something heavy it can tip over-not good! The base of my anvil is around 12" by 10" but the feet of the stand are at 27" by 25"-steady as a rock from all angles. All your anvil needs is a good old wire wheeling on drill or grinder around the whole body apart from the face. Just give the face a good hand wire brushing, some light 240 grit hand sanding, another brush and plenty of oil on it all over everywhere-wire brush it in to it. From then on just an oily cloth wipeover weekly and leave the cloth over the face when not in use is all you'll need.
  15. Bug

    Put three hands on it and call it a tick tock!