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About Kozzy

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    Butcher of metal

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    Southern Palouse WA state USA
  1. Sorry--I forgot to add that the tiles in the first picture are 12" square so the overall length is 16-1/4". And sorry if my earlier response to you sounded snotty at all. That was not my intention. My only intention was to express that a power hammer was unlikely and I was still grasping at straws with no good ideas.
  2. That's an interesting thought. The lump coal that people used in their furnaces around here was quite large and I can see a farmer using that in his shoeing forge and needing to bust the pieces. Explains the lack of any hammer marks on the back of the head too. He said point was a bit mashed and he "resharpened" it a bit before he brought it in.
  3. By "forge" in this case, I mean shoeing forge at the farm. No possible way there was a power hammer (the 80 year old farmer would have remembered that). Also, this particular farmer didn't acquire any of the tools when the only shop in the county with a power hammer went out. He's cleaning out old junk from his Dad's days there and the family has had the farm for 100+ years. I agree that leather punches are generally tubular--but something to pierce leather was the only thing I could thing of that was farm related for such a tool. They ran a lot of mules and did do a lot of basic harness work.
  4. A local farmer when cleaning out his old barn ran across this tool sitting in the old forge. Obviously, it's a piercing tool of some kind--but the back of the head doesn't have any hammer marks or wear. It's not particularly hardened, either: At best a low mid-hard toward soft. That implies to me that it wasn't for piercing metal when forging but you never know. Leather harness punch usually hit with a rawhide mallet? Heck, it might be obvious to someone with more tools in their toybox than me. I'd just like to be able to give a more definitive answer than "pointy thingie which would hurt bad if your Brother decided to test it on you" Thanks
  5. Rehashing this old topic, I've recently seen a bunch of old pipe vices dropped in the local market area which are also of the spring over screw design. That changes my old assertion that this was a re-do and I would now guess it was simply a variant that was tried. I picked up the one below for a song and a dance on a lark. Yes, it has been repaired but that repair is quite sound. Interestingly, the bottom of the jaw casting is designed to insert a post like a post vice would be set up. Obviously cast and not forged, it's not up to being a real post vice but if they are showing up in other areas, might make for a middlin' solution to the current high price of post vices (at least high here). Or--might be a good vice for twisting. I haven't set this one up yet to see if it works or fails. Not sure if the ability to rotate the jaws will be a help or hinderance. For size reference, those tiles are 12" square and it is quite heavy.
  6. In that case, you are forcing a reaction by shoving electrons through the junction (very much like electro-plating). In the presence of oxygen, you end up forming aluminum oxide and some variations on cupric oxides, both of which act as resistors to the current flow---and heat up. Heat is the real thing that causes the freak-out of these electrical connections. The main purpose of that jelly that's required on these connections is to exclude the oxygen from the joint. Without oxygen (in theory), the joint can't form ions which in turn can't react with oxygen and form more resistive by-products. Also, you aren't losing good metal to those by-products which could turn the wires brittle over time. If you put a copper plate and an aluminum plate separated in a kettle of electrolyte---saltwater in this chart's example, they'd act as a battery with a voltage as stated in the chart by using the difference in potentials--in this case, you'd measure somewhere between .36 and .62 volts. Copper potential = -.28 to -.36 V Aluminum potential = -.7 to -.9V Circuit potential = (-.9V) - (-.28V) at the top end = .62 volts. and (-.7V) - (-.36V) at the bottom end = .36V.... The bigger the potential between the two metals, the more that one will corrode over time and exposure. Since graphite is at the far end of the chart, that's why it was used in many of the old school batteries as one electrode (high graphite carbon bar at the center of the old C cell batteries for example). Lots of voltage potential relative to the other plate on the galvanic chart. That standard 1.5V battery you see is simply the galvanic difference between graphite and zinc (only 1.33V with seawater as the electrolyte but a little higher with acid) Similar in a lead-acid battery like used in cars. In that case you have plates (after charging) of lead and lead dioxide which have a voltage potential difference of about 2 volts in an acid electrolyte. 6 of those hooked up on series in the plastic box gives you the 12 volts and change. The difference is the ability to re-charge the dioxide plate while driving so it doesn't just continually eat away the lead (basically re-plating as you drive or have it hooked to a charger)
  7. Ignoring whether the metals join together well and easily, it's all about the galvanic series and medium in which the metals are coupled. On the chart, the metal that is more anodic will tend to be the one which sacrifices to protect the more cathodic---and the potential (voltage) difference comes into play in that the further apart the metals are, the more reactive they tend to be when playing together. You can see why they put sacrificial zincs on steel ships for example. It gets a little more complicated also because surface area can come into play as well as shape but that is only a big deal in more specialized areas. As an example of that, if you suspend a steel part in a stainless steel bucket of salt water, the steel will go south really fast---because the area of stainless around it is so great. If you suspend the same part made from stainless in a steel bucket, the bucket won't rot through as quickly because it's area is so great relative to the stainless.
  8. Second the call for citric acid as the passivation method. We do large stainless fabrications and while most other solutions are nasty and require waste disposal, citric acid generally isn't a big issue. We use the commercial product Citrisurf. It comes in different levels of acidity and varying thicknesses from thin liquid to paste. Not hard to make your own version from even something like "fruit fresh" at the grocery store. For localized passivation and cleaning, nothing beats good old fashioned toxic and nasty "pickling paste". We save that for something like cleaning an individual weld spot on stainless to remove discoloration of the HAZ. Works great and fast for small spots where you wouldn't be dealing with much nasty stuff to clean off after.
  9. Yes, those are mentioned quite positively in a 1918 (iirc) book I have on how to properly run a kitchen. There is some description on how to use the cooker but it's so easy you can guess it for yourself. The way it's glowingly written, you'd think it was as novel, innovative and helpful as a microwave was to many of us a few years back.
  10. I'm talking earlier stuff---the grass hut days so to speak. One might even call it "tribal" living days. Although there were obviously times when there was a flurry of work, average daily hours weren't that high because people didn't use that many resources to get by. For instance, Most on the American continents pre-columbian had extensive free time relative to today's workman. That allows inefficient methods of work such as the moving blocks shown to be viable--
  11. One historical thing that gets poorly translated due to today's standards is work. For much of the world living a subsistence lifestyle in history, it only took about 3 man-hours of labor a day to feed, house, and clothe a family. That actually left a lot of "spare" time to put into other things---like moving blocks inches at a time or the stone fit-ups which people see today as "amazing". Media often plays this up as somehow a magical mystery but it's nothing but having the time to do the work....deadline free. In the modern world, we've been tainted by the notion that it takes 8 to 16 daily man-hours for a family just to get by. Well, depends on the lifestyle you "need", of course but much of that comes from the thought process of modern industrialization---including the fact that most people working are actually contributing about half the "added value" of their output to the company. In the USA, if compensation gains had matched productivity gains from just the 60's to today, the average work week would be about 8 hours. It'd be a bit like being able to semi-retire at 25 years old. I'm just tossing this out as a thought exercise and not some political rant: What amazing things would you be able to accomplish if it only took 3 man hours a day in your household to take care of the essentials? What skills would you have time to master? What would that extra 5 (or more if you include a spouse) work-hours of freedom a day allow you to do? In some ways we have gone backwards from those living happily in grass huts.
  12. A friend does high-end pool cues ($ 5k each range) and swears by doing a CA finish on all his work. Maybe you should re-think that one and instead of change, find better final finishing/application methods. The cues come out like glass and wear like iron. You might also check into some of the musical instrument finishes available from Grizzly. Those tend to be wear resistant and more flexible than the usual home center versions of wood finishes. I personally haven't tried them.
  13. Mohrbach makes a lot of thermoforming presses---for things like shoe soles. There is a youtube video of at least one style and you can take a look to see if it matches. IIRC, they also make pad printing presses (for putting logos on items) and similar "production" presses. There was one offered locally for dirt cheap pricing and I was pondering whether there was enough structure and pressure to be useful for forging but I never got that far..."snoozed and loozed".
  14. Heat Affected Zone, HAZ from welding is actually a common issue. Most people discover the problem when the locally hardened area cracks near the weld, usually in what was good metal. It gets worse on some "farm" repairs where the person doing the work might have poured a little water on after welding so they could get on with the work more quickly. As TP mentioned, you can draw the temper if it's a problem---and I would do that any way at stress points that have already cracked and are being repaired. However, I'd bet that most people just battle the issue a bit and consider the drill bit a bit sacrificial to the hard spot. 6 one way, half a dozen the other. We actually had to go back to gas welding some critical stuff we make rather than TIG welding--the gas heats a bigger area so the metal doesn't self-quench right at the HAZ as much.
  15. Patience & persistence. Those are your best friends. Even if an anvil is dangled in front of you, if it's not right (price or features), have the patience to pass. That can be hard when you are itching for a "real" anvil. As was mentioned earlier, you up the effectiveness of the persistence part if you use the TPAAAT (do look it up). And just so I feel more useful, take note of what the others have said about not getting too hung up on what shape your "anvil" is. Focus instead on what it needs to accomplish and that might open your eyes to a hogshead barrel of other options.