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About Kozzy

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    Butcher of metal

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    Southern Palouse WA state USA

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  1. Kozzy

    Treadle vice/shear, help ID

    That would be one awesome filing vise. I can't tell from the photo but the gap and strength of the shear section don't seem shoe oriented to me. Maybe one of the farriers here would know better regarding what on shoe production might need to be sheared and if that shear looks like it might work for the stock involved in shoes?
  2. Kozzy

    Treadle vice/shear, help ID

    Yes, there are calking (caulking, corking...they are used interchangeably) vices but those all take a downward hammer hit and are pretty robust. This one is a bit weak in the vertical direction and I don't think it could take any serious pounding--it's more like a quick clamp for some operation than an actual beating-on vise. Still might be for shoeing but it's definitely a vise of a different color. Typical calking vice looks more like this
  3. Kozzy

    Treadle vice/shear, help ID

    That's a neat toy--never seen one built that way. Any chance of a couple of more photos please? Some aspects seem a little light in places for smithing--maybe aimed at a different industry? Any chance the shear would have been for thin wood slats? For some reason this is reminding me of some of the old box making equipment I've seen--for stuff like the old wood fruit crates (the light ones). Might be way off base but there is some brain-wire pointing that way for some reason. Maybe because it's similar in build to a foot stapler for those crates I've seen.
  4. Kozzy

    Electro-chemical etching

    I never got great results with mine. Note that I've only used it to mark 300 series stainless so YMMV. I found that I needed to keep things a bit more "wet" to get consistent etching...and one part would work very well while the next had problems. That was mostly due to poor masking but as you go deeper, fine details tend to get blurred. I found the "black" to be less than robust...rubbing removes it pretty easily. If I was doing cosmetic stuff rather than just simple marking, I'd find a way to blacken other than simply the etch. Not much else I can say except your mask tends to be the weak point on these. I'd focus on tests with something simple--even just a "dot" and you'll find the right tweaks for the etch itself. Then you can move on to a more complex mask and work that whole new set of bugs out...
  5. Kozzy

    Libert Sheer question

    I also saw that there was a current company by the same name in Green bay. Their website seemed so far a different direction that I didn't think they were related. Also found another that recently sold for $ 165 at auction that was in only slightly better shape than yours. Anyway..the reason I am adding is that you should look around for an extension---it attaches to the lower arm of the "C". Most of these were apparently used as circle shears and that extension forms a pivot to make a circle. Having that might add to the value and usefulness to someone. Maybe it's in another junk pile around there somewhere.
  6. Kozzy

    Libert Sheer question

    Well, I did spot one that sold in 2016 for $ 700 bucks...similar model but in excellent working shape. There are also a couple in current equipment auctions of recently closed companies implying that some people still use them in production. It's curious that there are several google images and a few other references but I can't seem to find one single true company reference to Libert. All I could find is a mention in someone else's ad from about the 40's. It seems they would have been big enough to have a mention on *some* internet page...I can always find something on these quests but this one has stymied me so far. There is also a member of this site who got one for $ 250 a while back who might chime in. Not much other info in the post but you might use the search function to take a look.
  7. Kozzy

    Libert Sheer question

    The blades basically "vibrate" (used loosely) up and down to chew their way down a piece of sheet metal and cut it. The C shape, called the throat, sets how far from the edge of the sheet you can cut. It's a good tool for complex shapes that need to be cut into a sheet..and by the looks of it, possibly a fairly thick sheet. Handy tool in the old days but you can do the same job far quicker and way better these days with a plasma cutter in most cases. Value..well, you are into 2 different realms there. Someone might have an idea of how to use the frame for something else like a planishing hammer. Or you might find someone who simply likes old-school stuff. Neither is going to bring much money although you might save a treasure from the scrapper. I'll check out the history part and post more if I find it.
  8. Kozzy

    Sharpening steel

    First off...I'm no expert so take it with a grain of salt... Since a honing steel does not grind away any surface...it only pushes the edge back into proper position and burnishes it a bit...wouldn't that require a hardness that is higher than the knife itself? If softer than the knife, it'd tend to potentially have the knife cut in. IIRC, any texture on the steel is actually so that it increases the pressure per unit area--by having basically micro gaps between the bumps on the steel so the micro bumps can each put pressure on a smaller unit area. When putting the edge on a woodworking cabinet scraper, you use a perfectly smooth and extremely hard round bar to draw out a wire edge-slightly deforming the edge of the scraper under the bar. That often means a good hard-chromed surface so even the shaft of a good quality screwdriver can work. A knife steel is not much different except the knife starts out harder so you aren't drawing as much "edge" under the pressure.
  9. Kozzy

    Vice repair advice and Id please

    Like TP said, you might carefully grind the welds around that mess. That was my first inclination also...but....none of those mounting parts or the spring are sacred. They're all pretty easy to re-make from scratch. You might want to consider sacrificing those when removing the welds in order to better save the body of the vise. If those welds are darned solid and deep, skip the hours of fiddling and just move on to any removal method that gets the job done and better protects the main body. You might also want to try a few careful but strong whacks on the welded parts with a chisel and hammer. It's possible you'll get lucky and the welds themselves will be brittle and crack. I'd spend the 5 minutes to give that a shot if it was mine.
  10. Are those torch marks or did someone run a hard-facing or plain weld bead up and down the sides and grind them down a bit? Looks a little like that to me. Of course it could also be a plasma cut---back in the 70's when my Dad worked for U.S. Steel, that branch had a "point to point" NC plasma cutter that'd do 24"+ thick material. The crew would sometimes cut big stuff (drops from billets) into shapes just to play and see what they could do. My gut wants to torch off that flange on the base plate...but it's not really hurting anything. Just build your stand to insert in that recess. The bad edge...gently round it with a flap wheel in an angle grinder. Don't get too picky or aggressive...just knock enough off that it isn't likely to crumble more and consider it a "feature"--which it actually is. I 'd probably slightly round a section of the good edge too, while leaving the rest fairly sharp just so you have options. If the situation warrants, you can also sometimes get a variable radius when "cleaning" a bad edge which increases options even more One mine, one edge varies from about 1/8" to 3/8" radius over about 8 inches of edge.
  11. Kozzy

    Air powered closer for post vise ideas?

    The problem with an air wrench is that you won't be able to change the direction "hand's free" so it might defeat the purpose of the whole thing. The idea is great for simplicity but might not quite get you where you want to be. Happily spending your money for you, I'd go with an air over hydraulic intensifier--simple construction system where you get hydraulic pressure from an air line (and easily adjustable for pressures via the input air pressure). An example is https://www.bimba.com/Products-and-Cad/Safety--Production/Inch/BoostersIntensifiers/Air-to-Air-to-Hydraulic-Intensifiers/Intensifiers but there are some I see on e-bay at appropriate prices. Then I'd use a hollow hydraulic cylinder over the screw..or over an extension out of the back attached to the screw..similar to this https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-HC0001-Hydraulic-Cylinder-Warranty/dp/B06XKK8YD4 with the hole an appropriate size and a spring return. Fab with that would be easy. Just add a good air foot pedal, backing plate for the cylinder, and you're good to go. It's quite similar to a lathe air collet closer but the hydraulic part shrinks the size down to something appropriate for a vise and gives you the longer stroke needed for a vise. I didn't dig into those links so they are just a rough example. Going with the air over hydraulic intensifier eliminates the "snap" problem both ways. Hydraulic flow is much easier to control and throttle and there are simple throttles available that you could slow the closing operation for good control but free-flow the opening (return line) so it opens faster. And...don't skimp on the foot pedal. Good ones aren't that expensive and are worth it.
  12. That's an interesting point. Is that all the photos? If it is, it is also a bit weird that there is not shot of the face...almost like the seller is hiding that detail. I'd be a little paranoid too if there wasn't face photo: Maybe request one? But you should be able to tell petty easily if the hard face is gone. Tapping will be pretty darned "thuddy". Rebound would tend to feel pretty mediocre. Any chance you can tap a good anvil first just so you know what a good one feel like? Even the 3 I have access to all feel a bit different..with the Vulcan being clearly the worst on rebound. The Kohlswa bounces a hammer back like it's a rubber superball.
  13. That's a useable wreck. Keep reminding yourself that another will come around at the right price and better shape...if you have patience. Don't let buyer's fever take over. Purchase price...That's a tough one on a damaged anvil. I certainly wouldn't ever go over a buck a pound due to the first line above. In some areas of the country, a buck a pound would still be way high. That buck assumes it has a lot of weight (bigger anvils tend to go for higher prices per pound than lightweight ones) and the face is quite usable and with decent rebound. As to being non-symmetrical in weight due to the tail being elsewhere, it just means you need to be more clever with the mounting. It shouldn't be a huge problem for average smithing. YMMV and others might have completely opposite opinions. Broken anvils tend to be like that--often because in some parts of the country, you can find a good anvil on every corner for pocket change (exaggerated, of course).
  14. You said "8" chimney pipe"....although I know not what your plans are, the general consensus here has been that 8" tends to be too small. You might want to search the site on the subject for better input but IIRC, generally 10" is about the minimum and 12" better. I'm assuming a forge hood here so might be far off base.
  15. Kozzy

    XXL coil springs, usefull ?

    Money there waiting to be made. Here's one example but they make nice dogs etc with a little fiddling and some other scrap bits. These would be the grand-daddies of yard art at their size. That's good..makes em harder to steal.