Kozzy

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About Kozzy

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    Butcher of metal

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    Southern Palouse WA state USA
  1. Interesting. I did a little digging because I know absolutely nothing about these so wanted to learn. It appears that many are now made by sintering powdered metals...but Deere mentions forged---and doesn't say what material except "chosen for inner toughness". China is hitting the markets heavy with their offerings. Any way...if you really have tons of the same (from the same maker) and can safely remove chrome it might be worth taking a cleaned sample down to your local big scrap metal buyer. They can use their portable XRF gun to tell you what's actually in the metal and from there you can usually determine the actual grade. Typically, the charge for this seems to be about 50 bucks which might be worth it if you have a continuing reliable source of spindles to use.
  2. The 80 is probably 80 pound rail, which is no longer a standard size. It seems to be just under the standard dimensions of 85 pound rail. However, all the big companies made many rail profiles in many sizes to order so "standard" can be a bit incorrect usage--might have been for a side loading track or something that'd never see heavy engine use. L.V. could have been Lehigh or just about anything. One reference says Lehigh used 76 pound rail as their standard in 1887. LVRR owned/controlled the companies which eventually consolidated into Bethlehem steel and was considered integral to Bethlehem operations.
  3. Rehashing this old thread a bit because I was just reading the same references in "practical blacksmithing" mentioned above. Adding to the mix of opinions from that book there is one reference which says he stopped using sand (uses nothing) and never went back. Another specified "quartz sand". Anyway...the issue got me thinking about sand in today's spectrum of things rather than 100 years ago. You can now get pretty much pure dry glaze powers for ceramic use--so basically really fine powdered clear glass "sand" with no extra herbs and spices in the mix. Looking it up, a small 6.4 oz container is about $ 1.49 USD and it drops from there as volume goes up. There are "cone 5" versions which flow at 2200F (1200 c) and is right in there at the general steel forge-welding temperatures you are shooting for (according to a quick search of this site) People mentioned in other threads about having some problems with moisture in borax fluxes as well as some lining-eating properties of the borax. These glaze powders should not absorb water the way borax does. I'm curious if anyone ever tried the old-school sand, comparing relative to borax. Is borax really giving something that the newer pure sand powders aren't? Borax just the current preference because it's cheap and easy as well as inertial habit? Nothing but following up on curiosity here to see if tech improvements have made "sand" a viable or even positive option again. As a butcher of metals, I don't do enough welding to know the realities of it in more critical welding.
  4. If it's working properly, yes there are times when they are handy. They are finicky and don't make the best welds but once in a while things seem to fall into place and they do pretty good. Does this one have the gas valve or is it only designed for flux core? I had similar in another brand (with a cheapo gas valve built in) before I upgraded to better and found that gas was far better for my purposes. Wish I had kept it because there are times when I need a "utility" welder for small fixits outside the shop. They don't make great welds but sometimes you don't need great welds on "fixits"--just stuff that holds together.
  5. Chinese motors are highly variable in quality. They're cheap as dirt in-country and SOP is often to just pay the cheapest price, test briefly, and use the 50-80% which actually work. The many failures get tossed to the scrappers as simply part of the game. So...Although the one you get might have the best motor ever made, I'd still always plan on needing to replace it when figuring actual machine cost on directly-shipped items.
  6. Another easy source for the rubber is EDPM pond liner, usually able to be purchased by the foot (or less) at most home centers. Makes experimenting pretty cheap. I don't know what style of valve set-up you have done but I'm going to equate this to old metal working shapers and their clappers. The clapper has to positively return to the flat position at the beginning of the stroke or really bad stuff happens. Because of this, the center of mass has to be proportioned beyond the pivot point. In the photo, ignoring the tool holder part, you can see the actual clapper has the hole offset slightly to one side so the mass is always correct to clap it "shut" under gravity. Yes, it's a bit of a weird analogy and might not apply to the way you are doing things...just one way to get positive closure beyond relying on only the air pressure to shut valves.
  7. Looks like you can get a 750 watt silicone pail heater off Amazon for about 70 bucks...with lots of other offerings available too at ranging prices. Thermostats are built in for repeatability. Rated to about 300F at a quick glance. There are other options which go higher but I didn't search. To me, those best follow the KISS principal. Strap it on and ignore it. The only real negative is the time-lag between turning it on and having hot oil.
  8. Marvelous platform to tweak with some additions. Wish I had it at my gate. Imagining one of those tiny yippy dogs that thinks it's a big tough brute of a wolf...
  9. Just clean any loose rust/gunk off the surface and the 1/4" bearing should give you an adequate result. Not perfect to calculate rebound but it'll be enough to tell you whether it's an ASO or not. As TP mentioned earlier, cast iron will make a pretty thuddy thwap sound with virtually nothing you can call "ring" notes involved. Even with a steel plate, something like a Vulcan cast iron is pretty clearly thwap and not ting. (starting to sound like a kid's cartoon show with the sound effects here). Assuming steel at 197 lbs, around here a good "market" price would be on the order of $ 3-3.50 a lb. Steel over cast iron like a Vulcan, more like $ 2. Initial asking price could be much higher if the seller is in the "fishing" stages. Not saying that's what they're "worth"...just that's what people tend to pay and ask in this area. Quite a bit of variation too with a lot of sellers thinking they have solid gold anvils and that "China" stamp actually means Royal Dalton Bone China value.
  10. Be sure and check the spindle stroke. Not all are the same. There are a lot of versions on which the stroke is too short to make it through a 4 x 4 which can be a pain...where another brand will have that 3.5"+ stroke. This is kind of a judgement call but IMHO, worth the hassles or extra few bucks to seek the longer stroke version. The problem with the imports is generally runout. Even a little runout can be devastating to a smaller drill bit in metal. Most of the time, the problem is the cheap Chinese chuck and/or chuck taper mount. Figure on getting a much better quality chuck after-market and you can possibly see a huge improvement from that. The chuck is generally mounted on a taper shank and the quality of those varies also. Good ones are not expensive and should be on the replacement list--although you can buy some good chucks with an integral shank too. Tapers can get confusing in both chuck and spindle so do a little double-checking when buying replacements. Rarely, the internal taper in the press' spindle is the cause of runout. The fix for that is tough and probably not worth going into for a case like this. Sometimes the pulleys are cheap and slightly out of round. That can induce vibrations which cause problems. If you can run the machine you will be getting before you take it home, you can usually feel this problem and avoid the bad ones. Sometimes the same "feel" comes from a belt with a "set" which will work out in use or simply a really bad quality belt which can be easily replaced. You can usually spot belt related problems by belt flapping at the higher speeds. Otherwise, not a whole lot which can go haywire.
  11. Any info on the size so we can guess at the price before the auction? My uninformed guess just from photos and guessing the size is that someone will take a shot at about $250 bucks. Auction fever is biting hard these days.
  12. You can get a nice print for non-wear pieces from a 3-D printer. For example, all the knobs and mounting brackets for things like fans for my printer were printed on the printer itself. They are reasonable quality for that kind of part. However, for a wear part like a printed gear to drive against a metal gear, the standard 3-D printer would not make an adequately strong and wear resistant version. Light load gears, yes. Heavy, no. That's the simple answer but one could go on for pages about certain exceptions and oddball situations.
  13. That type of tool is SOP for back-chipping welds when making aluminum boats. Most of the time they use about a 3" blade on an air tool with a little longer "neck" to reach better. After welding one side of the AL shell seams, you go back and chip a groove on the plate about halfway through the other side to remove oxidation from the first weld and insure full penetration. Then the seams are all welded from that other side to finish the job. The common name for the tool on the "west coast" of the usa is "Meat Axe" for obvious reasons.
  14. You need to gather 2 other pieces of information also---diametral pitch and pressure angle. Pressure angle is likely nothing to worry about in this case so it's probably droppable from the hunt. 14.5 degrees is standard although rarely 20 shows up in things. Measure across the gear to about the mid-point of the teeth. Take the tooth count divided by that measurement and you get the diametral pitch. That's the critical thing to work from on spur gears. There are modern standards for that but sometimes the old guys didn't always follow those and made "weird" sprockets. Standard current DP in the probable range is 24, 20,16,12 or 10. These days, it's always even numbers. Go off the modern standards with DP and you'll likely never find a sprocket to match without a donor to give it up. For example if you count 40 teeth and the sprocket measures 4 inches straight across to halfway up the teeth (plus just a hair), that would be 40/4 = a 10 DP sprocket. Anyway...sounds harder than it is but once you narrow down the DP and tooth count, even Amazon now sells spur gears and you can probably find one to replace it. You might have to face it thinner and bore it to match. All gears which meet will have the same DP---only the tooth count will vary.
  15. Thanks, TP. I'll do some comparing on the handle with other examples to see if it's a replacement or shortened, implying a repair. The most important issue to me was the opinion on wrought. I (believe) I can generally spot it but didn't have an example to show others about what to look for in their junk piles. Now I can get some of the really old guys to keep an eye out and save if they run across any. So many wonderful things scrapped for a few pennies around here.....