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About Kozzy

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    Butcher of metal

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    Southern Palouse WA state USA
  1. That's likely a good idea. Many of the larger "farm" stores have pretty good hammers in their shoeing section to choose from and they are not "break the bank" level cost. Even if you go a little wrong in choosing, it's still a useful hammer because there is no such thing as having too many different smithing hammers to choose from
  2. Wow on that video. Expected to do 288 blades a day minimum. Assuming a 10 hour work day not including any breaks, that's 2 minutes and 5 seconds per blade from raw bar through tempering. I know some people are able to go into robotic-concentration mode but my limited attention span would certainly have me wandering off task in short order.
  3. I wouldn't slot it at all. I'd use a dry cutting diamond hole saw (they make them to fit on VS angle grinders) and cut into/mostly through the brick portion. That'd create a nice clean hole and give you a bit more front/back clearance in order to align the hinges in a vertical plane. Cost in the US is about 40 bucks for the bit assuming about 25 mm. (several on amazon) Once you pop out the first brick "plug", you could go deeper with a standard concrete hammer drill--not having to be quite as careful because you are well into the brick by that point and won't mangle the front surface. I'd use hydraulic cement to fill the bulk of the hole and mount the bracket, leaving the cement a bit shy of the face. Hydraulic cement has a VERY short working time so you have to get it right in about 4 minutes. It slightly expands rather than shrinking. Then I'd use a portion of that brick plug to create a fascia which could be epoxied (or a simple tube "glue" for brick) on the face parts to make it virtually disappear if you worked it right. With a little care, the work would be hard to see unless you really look closely. You could even used crumbled brick and a clear epoxy mix to create that front cosmetic fill (light sanding to remove any potential gloss once it's set up). Slots are hard--holes are easy. Basically, find ways to make a hole look pretty instead and you'll save a ton of aggravation.
  4. Yea, hard chrome plating on cylinder rods is really tough stuff--not worth the trouble to deal with. They'd make really nice pins for the horse-shoe pit though Draggin something up from the past which applies to this kind of find: This is how the business cards from the long gone Mac's Surplus in Kirkland WA read 40 years ago "Official member of the society of scroungers and snafflers of real keen junk and neat stuff of inestimable value when use for any purpose except that for which it was originally intended" Bet with some thought you could find several uses as-is if you put some of that Mac's Surplus mojo in action.
  5. Question for those who've dug into the rules deeper. Frosty made a reference to something like a rules link but I don't seem to see it. On some occasions, it has been implied that the 5 days given for the final project is defined as 5 8 hour days rather than being able to work until you drop from exhaustion. Is it actually a specific number of hours rather than 5 days ending on XXX date at 5:00 PM? How are they defining it? How much time between heading home and that clock starting to tick?
  6. Heh..I do have a table top I made from an old workbench I yanked from the barn which has a shotgun blast into it I guess the possibilities are endless.
  7. Can you reference where you got the idea it's more than the cheapest stew-pot steel one can make? Anything beyond that is not my experience with T posts. I do have some very old ones which seem a bit stiffer than the modern ones but that's mostly due to having thicker members than they make now. Just curious also as I have dozens of old T posts and they seem, property wise, as un-complicated a steel as it gets. However, I haven't tossed them in the flames to see how they actually beat.
  8. Distressing can mean a pretty wide range of things to different people. I've seen some situations where people swing heavy chains at a piece of wood to "distress" the surface---or bang it with a hammer and whack it with some chisels. That fake distressing tends to look fake to me but is popular with some of the "trendy" markets. IMHO, the first real step is to think about how the piece of wood would have naturally aged and worn with use. You'll get MUCH more realistic "wear & tear" of you emulate what would have really happened to it over a hundred years rather than just going at the wood randomly. There are a lot of methods to this madness from very light sanding to going at it with a blow torch--it depends on the wood used and just how distressed you are seeking. Then there are some other tricks to toss in the mix--for instance, a bolt hole that's been there for 100 years will have black staining surrounding it from the iron bolt and you can fake that pretty good with dyes..even magic marker if you do it carefully. Anyway...several types of tricks but the point of this ramble is the first step is to consider what the NATURAL wear/use patterns would have been and use that as a clue to the process. It'll look a lot better if you do--less like it came out of some Chinese factory with fake distressing.
  9. Everyone needs tweezers once in a while. They all suck. Start with a quality pair and use some really fine wet/dry sandpaper on a thin block ( like a small piece of glass) with water to hone the important parts so that they actually grab properly. It doesn't take long and it's worth it. VERY sharp pointy end helps a lot also. You can do it with regular honing stones too but I find a really fine grit 600+ (US grit system) sandpaper to work a little better for me and doesn't ruin my good stones. As to those minuscule monsters which feel like a crossbow bolt in your finger tips, I generally use the tape method. Mediocre and I often end up digging anyway. Sometimes, soaking a hand in warm water until you get the wrinkly-finger thing going can improve the "stick out" so you can get a place to grab the tiny ones. Keeping a few of the cheap eye-loupes around is helpful for these and doesn't hurt to have around the house/shop anyway. The kind you pinch in your eye socket are best because they leave your hands free. Heck, the 3 pc set I stole the photo from is only $ 4.95 USD.
  10. Don't dismiss bulk pricing rather than high-grading your pick. You might be able to get a good enough deal that you can grab the goods you want and have enough "margin" in the rest to pass it on to others at a small profit for your handling. Sometimes they just want to move on rather than have the pain of piecing out their memories and will bite on the bigger deal. I know I'd rather do that when the old bones say it's time to stop. Depends on what he actually has, of course.
  11. Thanks. It was beautiful work. Had the simplicity not to over-power the design with the forged details to make it clear that hands actually made each piece.
  12. I like the design. Couple of questions--Is there going to be any finish put on the metal? Just trying to imagine it with a couple of different finishes...such as blackened. Would be curious to see the final product if you are doing a finish. Also..although I'm only very roughly estimating and assuming the frame which the 3/4" forged bars are hanging off of is also 3/4" solid bar---weight calculates to almost 200 lbs. Add a top and you can be increasing that by 20-50+ lbs. Wondering if the perception of that is darned heavy or darned sturdy. I know it's just a perception issue but curious whether heavyweight like that "feels" good to you or if it is a bit surprisingly heavy for a coffee table. I'm not sure how I'd interpret that if I had similar in my house. (yes, that last one was a weird question but I always try and get a feel for perception as that's what clients tend to judge by)
  13. That $ 3.60 shouldn't hurt. It's in the range where you can use it and not really lose, even if you decide to eventually pass it on. Only negative is that it takes a pretty large wad of cash so the buyer's market is a bit smaller than it would be for a lighter anvil--and that only really affects the time it takes to sell. So...you put money in the bank of FE and you'll likely get all that back if you choose to cash it in--plus get to use a great anvil in the meantime. I'd call that a win.
  14. If it was mine and bugging me so much I couldn't stand it (and that'd be a high bar to meet), I'd TIG weld filler with stainless rod, a bit at a time, cooling between those bits. Stainless won't tend to pick up carbon like other rods will so is more forgiving. Since that's not really structural and only fill, you should be able to get a good result without really affecting the jaws much. Finish file the patch. Stainless also tends to be pretty ductile so makes a decent jaw face for something which doesn't need hard jaws. Obviously YMMV
  15. Well dang it...just after looking at this post I happened to run across a craigslist ad for the same old 6-wheelers that were used in the 1968-1970 kid's show "The Banana Splits". Now that darned theme song is an earworm the size of an anaconda. Just to torture the rest of you...