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About Kozzy

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    Butcher of metal

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    Southern Palouse WA state USA

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  1. Probably carbide because those tend to be lower cost tools...but some of that kind of thing also use Stellite inserts. Stellite has variations in the mix so can be better optimized for applications than straight carbides. It tends to be a little less fragile than carbide also so can be better for tools receiving concussive blows. Color is a dark gray but not quite as dark as most carbide.
  2. Building on this a little...how laminar does the flow through the openings have to be in a ribbon burner? The O.P. was thinking about a slice of perforated steel---but because I happen to have diamond rock saw blades around anyway, it got me thinking (dangerous, I know) If one were to take a piece of cut-to-size kiln shelf and do a series of groves with a diamond saw on one side roughly 1/4" apart, followed buy a series on the other side perpendicular to the first--deep enough that they just barely cross into each other at the mid point...that leaves one with an effectively perforated piece of high temperature alumina with roughly 3/32" squarish holes on 1/4" centers (depending on blade and spacing). At issue is whether holes like that will create burn problems or not due to turbulence or the grooves on the exit side or whether that might actually be of some benefit. Sorry--just something that crossed my mind which might make a longer lasting burner front plate..or one that can be replaced more easily (make 2 since you are already doing the saw set-ups and likely have extra material to begin with). I estimate total time to be about an hour which is far less as well as far less fiddly than casting. But again, it's tooling I already have anyway. Of course the above is a bit oversimplified because you have to consider sealing it into the mount too...
  3. TP beat me to it. You want a tumbling action and too much RPM gets in the way of that--way too much and the stuff basically sticks to the outside via centrifugal force and a bit too much and the media and parts are being thrown rather than truly tumbling--sometimes resulting in damage if parts whack each other in the process. On the other end of the scale, too little rpm and the media/parts slide down the side and you get flat spots but no real cleaning action. A nice rolling "wave" is what you want. The actual speed depends on lots of outside factors including just how full the chamber is but my guess is that you are looking at somewhere between 45 and 60 RPM based on what I see there...and "guess" is the operative word here. That implies your 1/2 horse should normally be plenty once it's geared down. Our tumbler has an octagonal drum about 24" in diameter and runs at about 60 rpm with fine ceramic polishing media. Parts aren't delicate at all so can take a bit of "throwing" and fine media tends to cushion a bit better than coarse. Noise is always a problem..they just aint quite so you might consider some minor ways to help with that--cushioning in the right places for instance. I normally use a large vibratory tumbler in my personal shop and the noise of that makes it downright unpleasant to be around.
  4. Since bucking bar came up...a little photo just to remind you that your job could be worse...
  5. I got myself what seems so far to be one of those near miracle anvils. It was cast in a lot of 12 by a company that normally makes the super hard and tough bits for concrete crushers and such. It's effectively a proprietary stainless steel so doesn't really rust sitting out in the weather, 80+ % rebound (a hair low but not an issue in use), 280 lbs, with all the bells and whistles one might want in a german-ish pattern anvil. I've only slipped once with a 12 pound sledge and hit the face full force...and it didn't leave the slightest mark. And they weren't profitable...so 12 was all they made to the best of my knowledge. If you do a search for Shultz anvil on this site, that thread has a link to a very long thread elsewhere which shows full development of the pattern design and casting with feedback from other smiths as the pattern was developed. Not sure how this one ended up for sale (none of the others seem to) but glad I was able to snatch it when it showed up.
  6. Definitely don't abuse a set of bench shears by doing hot cuts with them. A nice large set like that is worth more than most post vises so you'd never want to abuse them. Build a hot cut specific version as C.R. Stevens mentioned if you really need the tool. Typically those were not designed for a hardy hole but for a stake plate in a sheet metal shop. Was just reading a copy of an early PEXTO catalog this morning and they also sold a special holder--basically a large iron ball with square holes in a special bench clamp so that you could have the bench shears held at any angle that suited you.
  7. Kozzy

    Large I Beam

    I'm in the camp of the dragon above. Sometimes it's better to cut one's losses and move on rather than chase what will be 50 expensive rabbits down that hole. If the cylinder and pump are toast, this thing is basically a poor scrap choice to start a project from....like trying to restore a car just because you already have a partial frame in the scrap pile. Sometimes it's better to take your licks at the beginning rather than dig that hole deeper. Obviously YMMV because all we have with which to judge is a photo and some comments.
  8. City/Suburbia/country? That might affect what to make along with whether this school is sitting in Redmond WA a mile from the Microsoft campus vs a place that isn't littered with kids carrying thousand dollar cell phones. Been pondering this because it is an interesting quest. Horse, leaf, and dragon (simplified) keychains would probably sell. Horseshoe hearts--though the material to start with costs a little more. Any way to put (cold stamp?) initials on simple twist keychains on site? Kids might go for that custom touch. If you have a welder, there was a snowman welded up from nuts posted last year (iirc) on this site that would be a really good one to make up. Some sort of horseshoe based stocking holder? The problem is, I am getting old. All the things I can think of were uncommon treasures 40 years ago but with the advent of dollar store level chinese goods, people can get more junk than they ever need. There are few "treasures" these days. In 1975 I made "icicle" tree ornaments by taking a piece of flat cut tapered acrylic, heating, and twisting. Sold almost 100 at the Jr. High Christmas bazaar. Now such things are pennies each from the big box store.
  9. You'll get half the people claiming all sorts of near-magical benefits, and the other half (including me) who consider it hokum on hammers. You simply need to decide which camp you are in and apply for your membership card so you can officially and authoritatively dismiss the guys with the other membership card.
  10. You might try looking at mortising cutters. Though most are for "thicker" cuts than a tang, there are some finer sizes available when you dig a bit.
  11. I have a similar but smaller HF parts washer. I bit the bullet and emptied my wallet for 5 gallons of Ozzy Juice fluid. I really like the fact that it's non-flammable and not nasty to work with. Hate the cost. My washer rarely gets used, maybe once every couple of months-- that stuff has sat in there almost 5 years now and hardly any has evaporated with the lid down. It has loosened some of the crappy HF paint and I just chalked that up to it being HF paint. The pump was already killed by the previous fluid or just being a HF product (can't even remember what that first fluid was--likely a petroleum-based degreaser) so I can't say whether the Ozzy Juice was pump-compatible.
  12. Not your area but I'm also in one where post vises don't come up that often, especially ones above 4-1/2". In this area (Eastern WA), that size would probably sell fairly quickly at around $ 175-$ 200, take a while if getting toward $ 250, and sit for a long time but possibly still sell a bit higher assuming the screw is not just good but excellent. Those are high prices (especially relative to other areas) and people with patience can find them cheaper...but there are enough impatient buyers to generally support those higher prices if the piece is well advertised. Obviously YMMV.
  13. Just curious--the photo appears to show pretty heavy wear making the surface wavy..or is that just the image...or original to the piece? Though it won't really affect use, it might affect perception and therefore pricing. Possibly a wipe down with something that reduces the look of the waves (maybe just a lightly oiled rag) could reduce that perception a bit by evening out the surface coloration. Pricing is going to be hard on that one because it's one of those things where the right buyer might covet it at high prices where 99% of others might only buy one if the price is so good you simply can't pass. My guess is that you'll have to decide what it's worth to *you* and then just take offers..and if one comes in above your own value, take it. It's just standard operating procedure that the minute you sell it, someone will come up and tell you they would have paid twice as much. That's one of the immutable laws of selling stuff.
  14. Replacement would be my guess too. Probably had an ACME threaded rod and nut left from something else that was going in the scrap bin and got salvaged. The most common might be certain types of turnbuckles --does the nut bear any signs that it might have come from such a thing?
  15. As artfist said, this is NOT the same thing as a woodworking "shaper". It's a handy tool to have around but rarely used these days because they are too slow and take some thought to set up. That being said, don't pass up one of the small units if you run across one at scrap prices. There are some things they really shine at...especially making ugly stock into something flat and usable. Once you start "dreaming" of set-ups, all sorts of stuff begin to come to mind. The machinist brains of 100+ years ago were even cutting things like curved dovetails with them. Mine is a veeeery old Giddings & Lewis traversing head shaper. It mostly collects dust but there is nothing like the slow clacking of the clapper as it creeps across work to make for a relaxing afternoon. This one but motorized.