Kozzy

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About Kozzy

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    Butcher of metal

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    Southern Palouse WA state USA

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  1. Kozzy

    What is it?

    Not a dehorner--at least not anything like the several in our Ag museum here. I'm voting root cutter also...mostly because I sure could have used it for that several times to save a ton of hassle. It'd be the cat's meow for people who commercially transplant large trees in the good old days before those hydraulic lifters mounted on trucks/tractors.
  2. Kozzy

    Buy a shear?

    Ok, that's different than needing absolute perfection like if you were making squares for a chessboard. What I'd experiment with is one of the chinese straight shears. An example can be found on [commercial link removed] for a little over 200 bucks. Searching might get you better pricing or a slightly bigger unit. Even if it turns out to not be completely suitable, it's still a useful tool. I've sheared 10 gauge (.105") stainless with mine as well as 1/8" MS flat bar--takes some effort but it's not hard. There will be some curl to whatever is sheared off. Doesn't handle curved cuts well but it sounds like you aren't wanting to do curves anyway. It's not a nice beverly but it's a cheap way to start shearing. Reading back to the original post....you want to make 1/16" square stock from sheet? That's REALLY hard. That gets into some tough shearing and slitting which is very hard to control. We slit 18 gauge down to 3/8 and even that is darned tough to control. Why not start with wire and roll it into a square profile? The device for that is called a turk's head. Just something to look into.
  3. Kozzy

    Buy a shear?

    You are only going to get close with a bench shear...not very square or flat. What you need is a stomp shear or squaring shear (various names) but while those would do the 1/16, you'd be hard pressed to shear the 1/8. Then you jump in size to mechanical squaring shears which get into a whole lot more money. There are some other routes in there also...such as the shear attachment on an iron worker and some less common shear types. So...the real question is how square and accurate and how flat does the final result have to be? It might be that a simple chinese bench shear is enough for your tolerance needs...or it might not even be close. Still too many unanswered questions to give much advice. Note that many of the bench shears also smear the edge a bit. You can reduce that by tweaking adjustments but any shear requires a specific clearance between the top and bottom blades so causes a bit of a smeared shear line.
  4. Kozzy

    Fair Price for Vise?

    That's about what a good 4-1/2" would be around here..but the range is pretty wide. I picked up a pretty rusty 4-1/2" at auction the other day for $ 70--scabbed mounting bracket, a bit overly rusty, but the screw and jaws are not beat. Be sure you see a close-up of the threads on the screw to make sure it's not overly worn--even if the rest looks "perfect", it's the threads that count.
  5. Kozzy

    Anvil issues.

    Common practice on many chinese cast products. I have a cast well hand-pump from (big cheap tool supplier not harbor freight) that had a ton of skips and holes in the casting just slathered over with bondo and hidden under paint. The products were so bad that the supplier pulled the product from their site shortly after it became available. Because it was just decorative for my use I didn't return it--I had the option for money back but they wouldn't supply another. Wife wanted her planter box decoration. These were being sold as usable pumps. Doing the same on an anvil isn't just skuzzy..it's downright scam. However, the profits still tend to outweigh the costs. There was a place near me that got the rejects from HF--basically HF would check a few in the box and reject the whole pallet-load if something like 10% failed from their random testing. This place would sort out the working ones to sell on a secondary market. They had thousands of boxes--truckloads--mountains--of rejected crap. FYI, the things that seemed to have a high failure rate were air tools in general and those portable air tanks. Must have been over a thousand of those air tanks when this place sold out at auction when they retired. The air tools were usually rebuilt by these people, taking several bad ones to re-assemble as one working version. Just a reminder of 2 things NEVER to buy at HF, no matter how tempting. Pricing that seems too good to be true usually is.
  6. Kozzy

    Crazy pricing on D2 and other steels

    As an example of how this sometimes happens....round bar usually comes in either random 12' or random 20' in the USA when you are buying commercial quantities. Say you need 8' bars for your process and buy 20's...that leaves you a 4 foot drop. No use for your process and scrap value on something like that is the effectively same as old rusty fence posts. It means you can sell the drop for just about any price and make money. I am ignoring shipping costs here as well as packaging but that's basically what often happens. In my plant it is a common "issue" on several diameters of round bar. We have a lot of T304 stainless shorts that end up being scrapped because of this...or given away. Check my garden and you'll find all stainless steel plant stakes because it was only a small scrap value and we'd already priced the drops into the final product costs.
  7. Kozzy

    Angle grinder

    2 things to add to what those above have said-- If you buy a new grinder, spring another 10 bucks to get a second wrench and nut for it. For some reason, grinder wrenches and nuts seem to have little legs and wander off....right when you are needing to use the thing. It's really cheap backup and since you have that backup, you'll probably never need it (part of Murphy's law). I use both threaded and unthreaded discs and the swap is when the nut gets misplaced for me. The wrench is stolen by the underpants gnomes nor matter how careful I am. Second is to spring for good quality wheels and flap discs rather than thinking cheap saves you money. Better quality abrasives are soooooooo much nicer to use than the cheap stuff (especially the cheap china-made stuff) and the extra cost is well worth it. Oh..on a side note a question to all: Everything makita I own has had the cord and cord boot become brittle and crumble in only a couple of years time. Is it just the tool-gods frowning on me or is this a problem others have also? My milwaukee, bosch, dewalt, and other brands haven't had the same problem...only the makita.
  8. Kozzy

    Bellows table for $65?

    What is that leather and those hundred phillips screws hiding? Could be covering some severe damage. That being said, if I had $ 65 not doing anything and it was the size it appears to be (the photo makes it hard to judge true size), I'd probably spring for it with the idea of restoring. As to immediate resale value...IMO it's a bit too jacked up to be shabby chic at this point. Most decorator items need a little less of the bad damage this one shows to be desirable. You might flip it for a small profit in the right market but it's no big money maker.
  9. Kozzy

    Info request about a Kinsley I&M vise

    Very interesting version of a "calking vice". Look that up in google images and you'll see other versions--although this one is a similar style, it's meant for a different use. Have you tried the site http://toolarchives.com/node/3409 which has a n old ad of a similar vice by them as well as the company history? I didn't read well enough--the folsom locking vice is for shoing.
  10. My first guess was tire spoon also...but it seemed too short. Model T spoons were flat and 10" long. However...it seems to match the rare photo of tire spoons for older bicycles pretty well in size and shape. The only reasonable photo of a closely matching vintage spoon I could find on the 'net was not able to be swiped easily so I couldn't post it. Those were almost the same shape but about 6.75" long.
  11. Kozzy

    Mystry file

    It's got me a bit confused as to the cut. I just pulled one out of the new bin of files that was exactly the opposite of yours, no cut on the spine but cut everywhere else as expected. I did find one partial reference that wasn't enough of a "sure thing" to post--same style file, implied it had safe sides, used in piano work--such as when you re-key and need to file the notch/cutout in the white keys to length in order to clear the black keys. There wasn't enough info to confirm the file was the same as yours but I can see that being a reasonable use for one that is safe in the sides and only cut on the spine.
  12. I bought a "lot" of files at an auction yesterday and was sorting a pile big enough that I never have to worry about loaning and not getting it returned. I ran into one oddball that I don't remember seeing before. It's a single cut with an "X" pattern overlay. I assume those act as some sort of chip breaker but I wanted to see if anyone had more information---designed for gummy materials that would make larger rolling chips? Some other benefit? Just a hokey sales "feature"? File is also marked with the brand Atkins and "Silver Steel". Found a site listing major USA file manufacturers and a little history plus when they closed that might be interesting to some http://americanmadefiles.blogspot.com/2014/02/ This site implies the file is pre-1966 "Silver steel" is a bit fluffy on internet searches but one reference from a blade blog post says "Silver steel or high-carbon bright steel gets its name from its appearance. It is a very-high carbon steel. It is defined under the steel specification standards BS-1407. It is a 1%-carbon tool steel which can be ground to close tolerances. Usually the range of carbon is in the range 1.10% - 1.20%. It also contains trace elements of 0.35% Mn (range 0.30–0.40%), 0.40% Cr (range 0.4–0.5%), 0.30% Si (range 0.1–0.3%), and also sometimes sulfur (max 0.035%) and phosphorus (max 0.035%). Silver steel is sometimes used for making straight razors, due to its ability to produce and hold a micro-fine edge." However, apparently old Atkins saw blade literature touts it as much more magical as far as steels go. Anyway...the question is more about any benefits to the odd cross-hatching. Just tossed in the rest for general info in case anyone else was interested (or had too much time on their hands).
  13. Kozzy

    Can I save my new punch?

    I unfortunately phrased it wrong...the SELLER taught you how NOT to make a punch. Sorry if I implied otherwise. Whether it can be repaired is probably an unknown as the material seems to be other than that which was claimed--or possibly just the HT he did on it. I would have fallen for it too--looks like a useful and interesting style that I will likely be trying on the lathe with a known material. Poor wording on my part...I'll blame it on the 2 hour drive to and from that auction. Yea, that's the ticket.
  14. Kozzy

    Mystry file

    Dang it...I know I've seen that file style and use before and it's buried in the rusty recesses of my brain. I'm going to be stewing and trying to remember to the point where it drives me crazy. Seems to be filed (no pun) in the same bent-brain cabinet as babbitt scrapers of old...
  15. Kozzy

    Can I save my new punch?

    It's a wonderful punch. It taught you many good lessons about all things except how to make and use a proper punch. If it wasn't too costly, I'd put it somewhere prominent as a reminder. If it was expensive, you can try and "repair" it...and maybe learn some more lessons in life, or maybe learn how to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear on this one Ya never know. I know that sounds snarky but We've all been there and done that. Most have to learn it several times over at the HF tool store buying junk that is priced just too tempting to pass up. Heck...today I spent $ 350 at an auction on a ton of questionable untested stuff...we'll see if it (re)teaches a life lesson or actually turns out to be that rare time when whims and "auction fever" pay off.