Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc

Stand is 5 pieces of walnut countertop (scrap leftover from a remodel) glued/bolted together. We got the top true so the anvil sits doesn't rock, but the bottom is pretty jagged. We lack the tools to plane it smooth, so planning on using 1/2" T nuts and feet designed to level pool tables, which should have the added bonus of allowing it to be more portable and sit evenly wherever it is. Anyone have any experience with a similar set up?

I have described this stand on a few threads but I wanted to show a sketch to visually describe how my anvil stand is made. It is a sand filled stand but designed so the anvil won't sink into it with use.

I just lost a maple tree. It varies in diameter, should I pick the largest diameter section an 18 " diameter or the next useable one which is 12" diameter . My anvil is 93 # and the base is 9" x 7"?

I got a second anvil that seems to allow me to move metal more easily than my main anvil. I plan to sell one of the two once I decide which is better. My question is, they are on different bases/stands. The second anvil is on a solid hardwood stump. The first is on a stand I made with 4x4s. Could the stand have a large effect on the effectiveness of the anvil, or is it kind of a moot point? The hardwood stand is more dense.

I've pretty much decided to do a sandbox stand for my new 288 lb anvil and I'm trying to think of the easiest way to make the box and it popped into my head that I could use an outdoor trash can, fill it with sand, and be done. I haven't seen this done before which makes me wonder if there's a reason for that since it seems like such a quick and easy solution.

Pictured below is the wooden stand I made for my 30 kg Acciaio anvil. Two 2x12x10’s were cut to make eight panels 24 1/4” long. This will raise the anvil face 30 ½” above the floor as best suited for a person my size. Two pieces of 2x6 were also cut to 24 ½” in length. These 2x6 pieces are needed to form the center laminate. Eight 2x12 sections plus the two side-by-side 2x6’s makes nine laminates. It is easier to center the anvil on the block and properly space the lag bolts with an odd number of laminates. I used two pieces of 2x6 rather than buy a 2x12x8 for this one 24 ½” section. Layout and drill four 5/8” matching holes in each of the eight 2x12 panels. Layo…

Hello; Quick question; I've been using 60 mm square tube with 3 mm walls; But I've also seen round tube; H-beams, U-beams, angle iron, 20 mm thick iron; 30mm solid iron ... So what would be best suited ? For an anvil tripod stand welded together. greetings, Bart

In thinking about anvil stands, it seems like the mass of the anvil stand would only add to the effective mass of the anvil if it is solidly supporting/attached to/backing up the anvil. For instance, If you set a 66# cheap steel anvil on top of a 300# anvil, it might work like a striking plate on a 300# (or 366#) anvil, but if you put the same 66# anvil on top of a 300# box of sand, or a 300# spring contraption, it might work just like a 66# anvil. Added weight in the stand that isn't as nearly stiff as the anvil might help with stability and ringing, etc, but wouldn't necessarily add to the anvil mass at the instant of impact. Or another way to think of it--if…

This custom tripod stand has 3" round sch40 legs sand packed, welded and weighs in just under 100lbs. Also, has 3" wheel kit and handle for easy mobility around the shop.

I am building my second anvil stand, first one was out of 2x12's, works fine but want to work on my welding. Material is stuff I found in the shop at work. Legs are schedule 40 2 1/2" pipe and the base is 1/2" piece of plate 12" x 14". I just tacked welded the legs on for now, to get an idea of positioning. It also pointed out the fact that i need to do a better job of positioning the legs before putting them on. Was going to add some cross braces and fill the pipe with sand or something. The anvil i am going to put on it is a Kanka 110 lb. Have a couple of bigger anvils but wanted to test my build skills on the smaller one. I am going to put silicon between a…

Hi all I have a question about the wood for my anvil stand. I made a stand (not quite finished yet) out of the largest peices of wood I could find locally (100mm x 200mm sleepers). They're kinda roughly glues together (sleepers weren't flat and I lack the proper tooling to make them flat, but it's pretty xxxx strong) I was listening to "The Forgecast" in the truck and they said that the one wood to not make your stand out of is pine, due to the fire hazard of the sap and oils. The sleepers I used commercial link removed were advertised as "Scandanavian Softwood", now just listed as softwood, so there's a good chance they are pine if not spruce. The w…

I'm in the process of designing an anvil stand. Nothing ground breaking I know. Trying to blend different ideas and thinking of some of my own. I have 2 anvils, 3 actually but 2 big ones are part of this story. A 250 lb Fisher and a 325 lb HB. I live in the suburbs in Los Angeles so I don't have distance between neighbors or even my main living quarters for that matter. I initially picked the Fisher because of its quietessnes while still great rebound. I went to a purchase a slightly bigger, better condition Fisher recently because why not upgrade?? Upon arriving, the Fisher was sold the night before. Feeling horrible about the situation, the sell…

Here is my building of anvilstand. I will need to forge smaller pieces of those c clamps that are used for beam holding, I do not know how they are called. And here is comparison between old stump and now anvil stand. I lost width but I get height.

i am a totally beginner and would like some help building a metal anvil stand

This is my first anvil, I had been using a rail anvil that you can see in my other posts, it worked great for what it was but I was ready to upgrade. This is my 110lb Vulcan and stand that I made today, let me know what you think. Start with 2, 2x12x12 untreated boards and cut 6, 23.5in pieces. There is a small piece left at the end of each board I use on each side of the base of the stand. All cut, you can see the matching grain of the two boards, after this pic I arrange them so that they alternate. Pre-drill and screw each board down to the previous, 4 screws per board. Level out with a belt sander. Trace the base and cut footings on the bandsaw …

I could use some thoughts/advice/experience surrounding the suggested angle on legs placed on a 3-legged metal anvil stand. I like to get my thoughts and measurements down in a simple CAD drawing before fab so attached are a number of photos to get my point across. I am questioning the benefit of a 3-legged metal stand vs. a simple T-shaped stand (see photo). In my mind the simple T-stand is easier in the design, cutting and fabrication and offers less obstruction. Regardless of the type, the question of leg placement becomes important. I included top-down photos of each proposed stand to get an idea of where the legs rest in relation to the anvil. On a tri…

To start, I'd like to apologize if this question has already been addressed before as I attempted to look for a similar topic/comment that answered it but couldn't find one. Anyway, if have several 20 ft lengths of telephone/utility poles (whichever you prefer calling them) left over after building my smithy. (Well, it's more of a small pole barn at the moment, but I'm planning to add 4.5ft cobble "half" walls as wind breaks... eventually. I digress) I've used 6ft sections of utility poles as anvil stands before with 3ft buried in the ground... but that was in florida, where rocks and clay didn't exist. I can't remember where I read/heard it from, but 2/3 feet of tel…

I just scored two pieces of 4" x 8" steel I-beam from a demo job near my home, and I'm thinking of making a stand for my anvil. Before I start cutting, I made a couple of scale models, most of which were pretty awful. This one strikes me as the best so far, but I'd appreciate some critique. As this sits, it would be 22"tall, 30" side-to-side, and 8" front-to-back. I've shown the addition of a couple of feet to increase the depth under the heel, but these should probably be a little bigger than shown. This is the stand by itself: And this is with a mockup of the anvil's footprint: And this is the stock with which I'll be working: Thoughts?

These 2 pictures are a anvil and forge stand designed to scale. The one with the blue thing is the anvil stand with a piece of railroad track on top of it with a total height of 30.5 inches (my knuckles). The blue thing you see in the picture represents a piece of square tubing that i intend to use as a hardy hole. The legs on the anvil stand are 2x6s and the base is 2x4s. The forge stands legs are 2 2x4s on each side and the base has 2x4s underneath 2x6s. I am pretty limited on space as shown in the last picture. I can step out of the workspace but the stand have to stay in. Does anybody have any advise either on the designs or other possible designs? Anything new must …

Still a work in progress. I am laminating first the "core" from scrap wood I have got lying over, fir and pine mostly. Then some hand planing and routing the end grain flat happened, then I tried to put the anvil on the core and it's exactly the size of the base. I think it can do with being a little wider and longer yet to make it more stable, though it feels pretty stable now. So, the plan is one more layer of lamination on all sides with some nicer wood, might still use pine, just better quality / more uniform size, rather than this puzzle it currently is. I also want to use the router so I can sink the foot of the anvil a bit into the stand. The…

My anvil came with a heavy duty 1/4" angle iron stand, but it was a bit too low for me and I just didn't really like it much anyways. So I decided to make a better looking stand and raised the anvil up a touch. 2"x6"s are all glued and screwed together, then strapped and wedged. Forged a staple and a hooked threaded rod to tie down the anvil, and laid down some clear silicone prior to bolting it down. Much better sound, I'm sure the neighbors will appreciate it.

the original stump of my anvil was too big in diameter. uncomfortable to move and above all it did not allow me to be as near to the anvil as I like except by placing the anvil itself on the edge of it rather than in the center. so I decided to put it aside for now and use the old stump of my "ASO". I took two pieces of pallet frame and cut them copying the shape of the base of the anvil obtaining two stop blocks which I nailed to the center of the new stump. now I can move it more easily and can get closer to the anvil when I forge. it is perfectly stable and the anvil cannot move at all. if you are interested here is the link to the video: https://youtu.be/NHkdosG3-…

This is my first post and have learned alot from all of the knowledge on here, thank you all very much. I picked up this #100 trenton a few months ago and slapped it on a stump stand that quickly turned to crap due to the stump being very old. A decent portion of the once flat bottom chunked and chipped off until it rocked and rolled, rendering itself rather useless. Over the weekend I made up this stand with a good friend from 2x12. I'm a fabricator by trade so i made the hammer rack and other pieces at work. I'm going to need to to a little reengineering of the hammer rack as the hammers just fall thru which is why the hammers are in the 2x12 offsets where I was pl…

Hey everyone, this is my first post as I’m trying to learn enough through experience first so I have some real questions. I just received my new custom built anvil stand and I just wanted to share it. As I’m sure everyone knows, finding a good anvil stand and anvil is the first conundrum of blacksmithing. I’ve used an ASO till now on the garage floor, and I’ve also used my buddies NC anvil on his stand. Wasn’t thrilled with it and didn’t want to buy one for 500 that didn’t seem that great either. I stumbled across someone on Etsy that had a listing for custom stands. They had no sales, and you know how Etsy is, so I was skeptical. I sent a message asking some questions…

Hi everyone. I'm hoping for advice on my rr track anvil stand on how to quit it down and how to set up the stand. I have a 6 foot log and I'm thinking of sinking it maybe 2 feet into the mud/clay soil but that's as far as I got. Any help would be appreciated