Gas Forges

Hi, we have purchased a devil forge gas furnace, all set up and gas lights no problem. However when we open the choke the flames carry on, we cant get it to go to the single high powered flame the video. We have checked all connections, pipes and watched the set up video man times.

Hello everybody! I'd like to start of with a brief introduction since it's my first post; I've been lurking for a while and I really appreciate all the effort you guys put in to be able to have such a great and informative forum. I'm a male in my thirties located and from Finland. I've been interested in blacksmithing since my childhood and I finally bought my first forge a couple of years ago, It's an old 2-burner firebrick gas forge that I picked up for about 200€ (included in the deal was a brand new torch that I'm now planning of using in my build). So I'm quite new to the craft and haven't been able to forge as much as I would have liked, but now I'm trying my b…

Hi Everyone, I have made a second forge out of a 20lb propane cylinder. It has 4" or ceramic wool, 1" of Kast-o-light and then I coated it with ITC 100. It has 2, 5 1/2" openings on either end. the back side has f full door that covers the hole, and on the front it has a half door. both are made out of 1/4" plate. I currently have a 3/4" naturally aspairated burner in it that I kind of cobbled together from multiple designs. I think I got all the bad quality of all the designs so I am going to replace the burner with a Frost-T type. The question I have is should i just use a single 3/4" burner as a replacement or would dual 1/2" burners be better.…

My new forge arrived with the puff cut to shape and a bag of refractory cement. How much will i lose without the special puff and kastolite 3. I still am going to coat in metrakote. Is it hotter under flame or between the two. About 6" apart. Thanks guys and gals

Hi everyone, I have only worked with NA burners so far, some bought, some built, but I had an idea today that I'm curious about. This is NOT something I actually plan to build and test, I'm just wondering if it would work and I thought I'd put the idea here where more experienced people could politely tell me why it's a stoopid idea Could you make a blown burner by pointing a gas orifice at the intake of a centrifugal blower (IE an electric version of a traditional blacksmith's hand-cranked burner)? Problems I foresee: -You'd have to be able to eliminate the possibility of gas getting to the brushes of the motor and igniting. -You'd need to use a…

It has been a while since i have been regularly active here on ifi, if yiu care ill catch you up. If you just want to check out the build feel free to skip ahead. "Cue flash back music" ~~~~~~~~~ I had just barely started my journey in to blacksmithing (maybe about a year deep) when I was stopped in my tracks, and forced to forge a new path forward. Two years ago i was told i would be loosing my workshop space. I tore down my forge, and started looking for a property. My wife and I found a home to buy and fix up to make our own. We're talking full remodel of living spaces in the home. But, the property came with a workshop. In need of much repair its self,…

So after a number of years without one, I'm finally getting around to building a new forge. I'm doing a number of things differently this go around (different from how my last one was- not different from many other people's designs). My old forge was a Brick monster - two layers of brick thick, with a cast tubular chamber... Impossible to move, and took forever to heat, but stayed hot for a long time. This time I'm going much lighter in construction- steel body, ceramic wool insulation + coatings. This is the main forge casing and test fitting the insulation to confirm my mental planed size is what I end up with. I still need to build the runn…

Hi all, First of all, I'm writing from France, I'm not a native English writer, sorry for the errors, I'll do my best to be clear, don't hesitate to ask for explanations. I forge maybe 5 hours a month, mostly knives blades. My propane forge is made with an old propane tank (13kg, very common here). If I remember well, insulation is made with 75mm (around 3 inches ) of kaowool and JM28 bricks plus around 20mm (3/4") layer of hardbrick at the bottom. The burner is a 3/4" pipe with a 1mm mig nozzle. This forge is in a distant workshop witch explains why I can't use it more. Now I'd like to build a smaller portable forge to be able to forge at home…

Hello all, Had my first experience with a bit too much borax flux and its effect on soft ceramic firebrick the other day. What do you guys use as a liner/tray material to keep this from happening? I had planned to split a heavy duty firebrick into 1/2" slabs and use that on the floor of the forge, but the diamond masonry blade quickly gave up. Ive got a small bucket of Rutland refractory cement; Do you think a nice thick coat of that would resist how borax flux?

I bought a CastMaster Elite 2 burner. Hooked it up to a brand new 40gal propane tank but I cannot tell if it is working properly because I can smell propane when it's on and there are no instructions for the air intakes (how open should they be?) And for how to adjust the burners in side(should they be as low as possible?) Should the propane be on full? It has a regular to dial in but I don't know how to tell when it is working properly....

I am an amateur knife maker and am looking to get in to a little bit of forging. I have made a bucket forge at home but am having trouble finding the right torch for the job. The torch is to fit in to the base of the bucket which is about 25mm wide and 50mm deep. Any advise on which torches would give me the best heat for forging wold be greatly appreciated as so far i am seeing torches that can achieve 1200 c but from what I have read I need to go as high as 1700. Many Thanks Duncan

With the advent of these inexpensive Mr Volcano forges ($68 at present), is it worth it to try to build one? I currently use a JABOD forge using coke for fuel. I would continue to use that, but coke is hard to come by in central Texas and is rather expensive. Coal is cheaper, but I live in the burbs and I don't want to piss off the neighbors with smoke from green coal. I can get lump charcoal for $27 for 34lbs, but I don't like it as much because of fire fleas and the fact that it doesn't go out by itself at the end of the day, waisting any unburned fuel. Propane is easy to get, practically 24 hours a day, but I have not taken the plunge since propane forges are much…

Hi, Before I retired, found a piece of steel pipe at work and decided to make a small knife making, and or small tool making forge. Aim was to conserve fuel, but yet have a full working forge. I use firebrick for doors and put in 2 1" layer K-Wool and a coating of Satinite. Forge pipe is split and can be separated for Wool install. Made a Blown Burner and also use a Mr. Volcano Burner. Turned out pretty good for what I need and happy with the outcome!

I'm building a forge, and have already bought a single burner. I'm planning on using the core of a large hot water heater. The diameter is roughly 43cm wide (without the insulation.) With insulation it'll be around 30cm. I'll probably make it around 30cm long as well (I have well over a meter of length available). Is this too much for a single burner to handle? Burner is the basic Devil's Forge DFP burner. I was also wondering whether or not something like 2 layers of 2" insulation is too much for a forge, haven't seen or heard anyone mention it anywhere. Cheers

Me again, Asking more questions (sorry) I'm building a small forge - some where around 150 cu in (2.5 Litres). I'm struggling to line it with castable as the entrance is really small - I can barely get my hand in. Is there any major disadvantage to casting a large flat 1/2" thick floor (over 2" of Kaowool) for an upper shell to sit on? This would make it a D shaped forge, easily replaceable floor, and I'd be able to cast the upper easily. I'll draw an awful picture if that doesn't make sense

I fired up my 3/4" T-Burner for the first time yesterday, and there were some issues. First there was some sputtering/popping at random. I ran the burner between 2 and 10 PSI and it persisted. This I figure this is either my mig tip needing adjustment, or my regulator being old... it had sat out in the elements for a couple of years. I figured I would at least give it a shot before buying another one. What really concerned me, however, was that the brass fittings all the way up to the valve hot VERY hot, too hot to touch. This was after only 5-10 minutes of operation, in the exact position shown. This can't be normal, right? What could be causing this? I'm eag…

Since we only work a few inches at a time, I am looking at designing wide body, but narrow depth forges. We see similar in the ferrier forges with the wide side opening, but rarely are those side doors ever used by other designs. When they are used, they do not block off the unused opening area to get that reflectance back to the forge. So thought about the following smaller forge designs to keep from getting heat where it is not needed, without loosing all that reflected energy. Just a few volumes I'm considering, and will be building multiple shells for a table top adjustable forge. I'll be keeping the burner entry as it's own entity as a 2" high wal…

Hi, Thought I would put this up a Commercial Made SS Burner for $25! Made a Mini Mongo, but did not like it, saw this and was amazed at the price! Just used it and is pretty neat, you can adjust the needle valve and Air Choke to get a neutral flame or heat. Goosneck is threaded 1/8" NPT so any needle valve can be used.

At what temperature would a small gas forge get up too. Thankyou in Advance

Hey everyone, I am a beginner blacksmith, I have forged a few things like knives etc. with others guidance. I have recently taken a more serious interest in blacksmithing and am planning to build myself a propane forge. I have done a ton of research online on this forum, others, as well as youtube and more. I am pretty sure that I know what I want to do, but I wanted to post my plan here in case any of you have suggestions on how to do it better, or tips and tricks for some aspect or otherwise have some advice. Before I get into my plan I am going to tell you all what I am planning to be blacksmithing. I plan on just doing a variety of simple projects to get st…

I know there are forums on popping forged already, but none of them I’ve seen exactly describe the issue I’m having. My forge is a ribbon burner 2”x4”x14 1/4”, an interior size of about 3”x18”; when using the forge it lights up and runs beautifully, but after a minute or two it pops loudly and the flame goes out. I can’t think of any reasons it would be doing this, there are no cracks in the burner, the pipes are brand new, the refractory is solid. Does anyone have any ideas? I’ll post the video if it will let me. IMG_2207.mov

So I've been meaning to build a forge for a long time. Around ten years. I finally decided to just do it. I'm trying not to spend too much money, but I have an advantage of having a lot of junk to work with. Total I've spent so far is around $10 on a couple 1/8th pipe fittings I didn't have. Those could probably be optimized, but I went with what I could find at local stores on a Saturday. So what I've got so far is the preliminary forge blower, and the skeleton of the main forge body. The blower is made from a 1" ID x 10" piece of pipe that I found in the junk pile. I flared the ends to make a venturi. This was done with an oxy/propane torch and an old clapped out a…

Hello, my fellow metal heads! Got an idea I've been bashing around for about a year and a half. I am thinking of using an auto changeover to run two lpg cylinders for my forge. One empties the valve auto switches to the other allowing you to change and recharge without ever loosing pressure. Has anyone else run a setup like this? Do the auto changeovers work? I see a lot of them are output regulated to 11" W.C. which is not even .5 psi. Does anyone have a better way I can set this up than an autochangover? Thanks folks! Dueldor

Cheap Devil Forge test fire. Looks like a decent flame to me? Open to comments.

I have got a 12” piece of carbon steel pipe that’s about 3 foot long I also have an entire roll full box of 2” insuwool they were both free from work I am wanting to build a 2 burner forge is the pipe going to be too big to use am I going to waste a lot of propane. I realize I will have to shorten the pipe which I am prepared to do. I just need to know how long of a piece I should cut off it