Gas Forges

I have a old 100lb propane bottle that I cut in half and I am waiting to make it into a propane forge whats everyone's thoughts

I’m starting to build a gas forge. I want to build a 3 burner. I don’t want to cut down the fire brick, so I have a internal dimension of 9x6 1/2x18 inches. I am also installing a Frosty T burner. Am I on the right path ?

Hello everyone The last couple weeks I have been building a little gas forge. It uses a 1/2" burner I bought here in Australia. I used 9" round pipe and lined it with two layers of ceramic fiber insulation and hardener. The forge chamber is 4 and 1/2 inches across and 8 long. When I tune the burner it works perfectly at 1-30psi. It all looks to be going well when I put the burner in the forge however when I reduce the oxygen with the choke the burner starts sputtering. At lower pressures the huffing sound is longer between huffs. At higher pressure it still does it but much faster. I'm wondering if my chamber is too small and causing backpres…

Im planning for my first propane forge. I plan to buy rather than build, probably a Devil's Forge. After reading everything I could find on the site, and rereading it after I found Lou's thoughtfull consolidation, it seems the fumed silica is the first step, followed by Matrikote and Plistix or something similar. Should i just pitch the ridgidizer that comes with the forge? Thanks

I will soon be moving to Laramie, WY and my new shop will be at 7500 feet above sea level. IIRC at that altitude the partial pressure of Oxygen is only about 70% of that at sea level. I have a modified Sandia type propane forge and I am concerned that at that altitude it will not get hot enough to forge weld. Does anyone have any ideas or thoughts about this and if my fears are justified any suggestions on how to increase the heat of the forge? A blower for supplemental air/oxygen? Different orifices? I'd be leery of trying to use bottled oxygen on the theory that any mistakes could convert my shop and me into little bitty smoking pieces. With my coal forge I c…

I'm upgrading from a brake drum forge to propane. I'm looking at a Chile Forge one burner (Tobasco). I'm just getting started in forging with general small stuff but I would like to forge small knives and do simple heating (1084). Maybe down the road try small damascus billet. Is a single burner going to do it or should I go with a two burner?

I'm trying to find the detailed plans for the Frost "T" burner. I was reading through the forum, and it seems Mr Frost is pretty adamant about not changing his design, and I agree, he's put in the time and effort, I just want to build it. Most of the videos I've seen use 3/4" pipe, but Frost said in another post that to be able to reach forge welding temperatures, you need at least 1.25" pipe. I want to make sure I build it right. The only link I could find here is from 2015, and when I click it says the page has been removed. Someone please help!

I have a nice propane forge that I built a few years back, single burner, pretty standard design. The forge works fine with my 20 pound tank and will use all the propane until empty. I also have a 100 pound tank that will run the forge when full but when the volume drops to about a half tank it won't flow hardly any gas, barely enough to stay lit. I use an acetylene regulator, actually I have two and get the same result with each. It doesn't show any pressure with the big tank even though there is plenty of fuel. The tank valve is wide open and the regulator also wide open. Has anyone else had this problem or use a different regulator setup? I only have the…

Anyone tried or even seen these burners? Just browsed into it and it sparked curiosty and the prices seem ok. Apoloigies if posted before. Also found a build here

Note to mods: I will be making a separate post about the forge seen in these pictures on another thread, and there will be a lot of overlap between the two posts. I decided to make this its own thread because there seems to be interest in small burners, and it's easier to search like this. Tonight I made my first crack at a 3/8" Frosty tee for my ~45 cu. in. two-brick forge. I think there's more gains to be had, but it performed really well off the bat. All pictures taken at 2 psi, with the orifice positioned as shown in the 2nd picture, almost poking into the mixing tube. Parts: 3/8 x 3/8 black iron tee 1/8 NPT …

Hey, so I am firstly I apologise for the slightly panicked introduction. I've read this forum a few times over the years and it has some really great content! I would contribute more if I had any knowledge worth sharing ;-)! Alas I am in a sticky situation. I have a single burner gas forge from Becma in Germany. Very similar to this one, only mine must be a slightly earlier version (as it's a few years old). Only different I can see is the doors are a bit thicker on this new one: I have been running it on a hobby then part time basis, so not extensively. You can definitely forge weld in this forge. I have done so many times with both mild steel …

Hey guys. I was wondering if anyone has figured out a good way to make a DIY static mixer that works well and is cheap. How long should they be? Where should they be connected in the system? My ribbon connections are 2" BIP.... I have two Ribbon Burners that are 6" x 3" with 1/2 " over lap for grabbing the cast... so the possible burner space would end up being 5" x 2" for each... Total of 10" x 2" with both combined.

Hi all, I was hoping I could get some help with my new forge. As you can see in the videos, I am having various issues with the burners not lighting up, sputtering and flaming out. I can run one of them on a very low pressure, but not both of them. The weird thing is that the burners were running more or less fine in my old cylindrical forge (standard 11kg propage gas tank) and I recently decided to build a newer one, because the kaowool insulation was starting to show and it was a health hazard. I also changed the mig tips, but used the same type, 0.8mm. I use the standard Frosty T burner, with 3/4" pipes. I have uploaded some videos on youtube: https://…

Hello. I have a 2 burner diamondback forge that is.. on its way out. Looking to finally just build my own, and was wondering if there are any design aspects or features that people have messed around with that they really like. As well as forge shape/style, etc. My current one is a blacksmith model, so a box forge with a main opening and small ones on the sides. Has anyone ever transitioned from that style to any form of cylindrical forge? Did you miss the box model at all, or was it fine? I should note I mostly work on a smallish scale anyways. Anyone ever use a forge with a foot pedal to open the main door? Worth it or not? Any thoughts or tips are apprec…

I am starting to get tired of the pool of molten scale that sits on the floor of my gas forge. When forgewelding the scale runs off the pieces and collects in the bottom of the forge together with som of the borax it then gets stuck to other pieces I am working on. i scrape out my forge from time to time and replace the bottom firebrick when it gets all too nasty. Do you guys have trouble with this aswell? I am wondering if there is a better solution, like cutting slots in the bottom firebrick for that stuff to collect in so my workpieces aren`t bathing in it or putting ceramic chips or coke in the bottom of the forge instead of firebrick...

I see a youtuber/promoter advocating the purchase of the cheap volcano forges. Does anyone else see quality issues with them or am I alone? Model: Hero Built in the USA. Complete Propane Forge Kit - heats up to 2400°F Stainless Steel Construction | Size: 9.5 x 8.75 x 8.75 KIT INCLUDES: 2lb Satanite Refractory Mortar - for Initial Coating and 8 oz - for future Maintenance 1 inch High Density 2600°F Extreme Heat Ceramic Fiber Blanket One Extreme Heat Magma Firebricks, Propane Hose with 0-20 PSI Regulator, 8 oz Winterized Rigidizer Concentrate

To start, I just want to thank everyone on here who helps out. It's taken me a while to get here, and I have tried my best to read as much on the forum as I can on Frosty's burners. Tonight was the first night trying them out, and they work! There are a few disclaimers I would like to get out of the way. In the video and photos below, reducers are attached to the burners, but I plan to use stainless couplers on my final product (photo of this attached as well). I was dying to test them out, and accept and understand their behavior outside of a forge is going to be different than when they're inside. I deviated from the design by adding the needle valves an…

Just getting started with my first forge, a 2 burner Devil Forge. I currently find myself using a single burner most of the time due to the size of the metal I am working. How much of an impact does that have on forge temperature? Should I make an insert to reduce the volume of the forge when using a single burner? Does it matter? Thanks

Hey everyone, I don't get here often so bear with me if the question is dumb. I'm building my first forge as the firebrick I use now isn't large enough. I'm using an old air compressor tank and have that figured out. My question is with the burner. When installing the burner into the forge I plan to make it adjustable so if I change thickness of wool I can adjust accordingly. My question is how far past the wool should I have the flare (end of burner)? Also I plan to use 2 layers of 1" wool. Is there any benefit to coating the first layer before putting on the 2nd. Here's a pic of the latest knife I've made. It's going to a guy in NJ and he'll use it on his Tuna…

I have a recently built propane tank forge with two 1/2" Frosty T burners. When I fired it up tonight (fifth firing), one of the burners was behaving a little differently than it had before. It was much quieter than the other one and the flame was weird looking, not really staying together. I thought it must be a blockage in the fuel supply, so I detached the propane hose from the top of the burner to see if the orifice had some debris in it, but the MIG tip looked clean (gave it a couple swipes with a torch tip file anyway just in case), and I couldn't notice any obvious fuel restriction on that side of the system. Could it just be that the MIG tip extension in the T…

In short, I've considered my options (I can explain if you want), and I'm planning to make a vertical sword oven using a 100 lb propane tank as the shell. Video 1, Video 2, thread. I don't plan to make it electrically controlled. I want to get swords up to critical temperature for normalizing and the quench. If I can temper them too, that's a bonus. There are some things I want to ask about/confirm. This group suggests 2 inches of kaowool for forges. I assume the same goes for this oven. It would be nice to not have to worry about airborne fibers (I'll wear a respirator if there are), but it would be difficult to apply rigidizer or castable refractory the usual way b…

Hi all, first post here. I'm in the middle of building my first forge setup, and I followed Frosty's T Burner instructions as closely as I possibly could. The burner came together just fine, but I'm seriously struggling trying to understand how to hook up my propane bottle. I got the parts listed in the guide, but also added a needle valve and shutoff ball valve. After looking around a bit, I noticed pictures of people with the rubber hose connected directly to the back of the burner, but my fittings are all wrong for that since I have a flare fitting. (I know basically nothing about plumbing and these fittings, so please go easy) What kind of connector/fitting do I need…

I'm looking for gas burners available in the UK (need in a hurry!). Anyone have recommendations? Adding a pic of the forge. Current burners Not getting up to welding temp (even with doors partly closed). They are from a forge I bought on ebay, but that forge wouldn't get to weld temp either... and now on new forge, still won't. Any recommendations would be great! Cheers in advance.

Here's a quote from Chile Forge webpage warning about the dangers of corrosion from using flux. " Forge accessories Replaceable Ceramic Shelves If you have done forge-welding, we don't need to explain the corrosive nature of flux. To those who are considering trying, a word of warning: Flux can ruin a forge floor in a single session. It is nearly impossible to get off once it's in your forge and it will stick to everything it comes into contact with." I've never seen anybody be careful about using flux in their gas forges what say you?

It’s taken a while, but my forge build is finally complete bar the IR reflective coating. Many thanks to all who gave advice. I started by building a naturally Aspirated ribbon burner on a 3/4” Frosty T-burner mixer. I built the frame for the castable from scrap wood and put shipping tape, the type used to tape boxes shut, on what would become the interior of the form before assembling it, punching holes in each crayon socket and coating it with Crisco (butter flavored, for the curious) before inserting the crayons. This combination worked like a dream as a release agent. I highly recommend it. The mix chamber was built from 2X2 square tubing, 1-1/2 inch s…