Gas Forges

Hey guys, I've been following many discussions about building a gas forge at home. I rigidized my kaowool lining with fumed silica with food coloring added in order to ensure it's fully covered. My next question is how long do I wait for it to settle/dry before I apply a satanite coating?

This thread is intended as a starting point for people wanting to know about what different kinds of naturally aspirated burners available to build or buy. When I first started looking around, it all seemed like too much information in too many different places and I wished I could find some kind of overview of the types of NA burners available. I’ve built a few of these burners myself now, but I’m still fairly new to it. I love to build things myself, either to save money (never really works out that way) or to learn more about things and better understand how and why they work. I’m starting to get my head around the how and why, but THIS IS NOT BURNERS 101. I’m no…

I've made a small gas forge for heat treating, internal volume=900 cu cm (55 cu inches). I've tried it with the burner that came with the propane tank, a Sievert 2941P, length=75mm (2.95"), diameter=28mm 1.1"), orifice seems to be smaller than 1mm (3/64") possibly as small as 0.5mm (1/64"). It takes a little while to get up to heat treating temp, but once there I can crank down the pressure quite a bit. My question is: -How does this Sievert burner compare to, let's say the Ron Reil burner? The recommended operating pressure for the Sievert burner is 2 bar (29psi) and at this pressure is uses 600 grams/h (21 oz/h) of propane. According to what I read on this f…

Purchased a small 1 burner stainless steel forge on line. Work well for me with the exception of the insulation deterioration over time so I built a 1 burner brick forge using the original burner from the first forge. I really like it. The only thing different is the position of the burner. The original burner was almost flush with the insulation on the inside. The burner was a challenge to mount being it's ss so it is currently recessed maybe 3/4" into the brick. I think the brick forge gets much hotter. My dilemma is that when lit it develops a little popping. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

Cause of low propane pressure can be caused by the valves on the top of the bottles themselves, on modern propane bottles they have now fitted safety devices which will detect leaks in your system, if your pipes or connectors have slight leaks the valve on your bottle will only let low pressure out, The remedy is to check your joints with soapy water and look for bubbles, and tighten them,then shut the valve on the top of the bottle, make sure there are no leaks, and this is IMPORTANT that the burners are turned off, then turn the bottle on again then the burner last,hopefully you'll then have full pressure again . Making sure that when you use the forge next, th…

This is mainly a brain dump, apologies. I have all of the steel pipe fittings; 4" 1/2" pipe, 1/2" x 3/4" tee. This is all in the UK standard BSP. I have 0.6mm x M5 mig tips (I can get tips with M6 or M8 thread, but M8 aren't available in 0.6mm) I have several different 1/8" x 1/4" (BSP)pipe nipples. The bore on all of them is much too large - the mig tip falls straight through! The smallest thread I can tap them to is an M8, which makes the wall too thin and breaks them (the nipple on the right). I can only assume that you have MUCH beefier fittings stateside?

After perusing the forum the past couple weeks, I've come to realize I need to change a few things up. I built my forge about 6 years ago on what I thought was sound info. It does what it was intended to do, just need to make it safer. It's made from an old compressor tank that the bottom rotted out. Cut the bottom out at the caps and half way up, cut the top in half and rotate. Lined with 2 1" layers of cera blanket and coated with itc 100 and 296. Floor is a split hard fire brick. It has 2 1-1/4 linear burners of a design I saw somewhere that I loosely copied, but they do work pretty good. I'm gonna reuse the tank but with a cast refractory and …

Hello, i need some advice. I picked up a used home built forge. The issue came when i was lighting it the first time. A minute after i lit it both of my carbon monoxide detectors started going crazy so i immediately shut off the forge and went outside. I've been searching around for tips on tuning one of these forced air burners without much luck. My best guess is that I'm not getting enough air flow/pressure?

Hello All, I just picked up an Empire forge made in Los Angeles I don't know anything about this type of burner. I work with silicone bronze for boat hardware and just kind of dropped into my lap for cheap $. I plugged it in and tried the blower and it worked smoothly with the variable speed knob. I don't know how much propane it will require as far as cubic meters per hour and I don't know how to light it. The only regulators that I have found here in Mexico run around 1 cubic meters/hour no different than a BBQ or turkey fryer. I don't know how to light it and I want to any help would be appreciated Thank you, George

Sorry its been awhile since I was on. Life has been not very friendly to my honby. I made a propane forge for forge welding but I can't get it hot enough. I've been tweaking and adjusting my burners and still nothing. The forge chamber size is 5x5.5x11, I have a double burner set up. 9" long pipe with 0.04 might tips. Burner flame looks good, I have the orange dragons breath out the front. Even blocked off I can't get a piece of 1/4" to welding temp. Any help would be appreciated. oh forge is well insulated with 2" of kaowool. Sealed castolight , and coated with its 100ht Sorry forgot to say the burner is 9" 3/4 pipe down to 3/4:1 reducer with threads…

The need of a small-ish 350 in³ single burner that can forge weld,maintain optimum forging temperatures and travel well sets the parameters for this project, lets see what Mr. Murphy can do to discourage me , shall we? First, you gotta have a flame. finished, more or less, two Frosty burners and fired them off. One is as smooth as the xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and the other is a bit ragged. I suspect that the gas tip is slightly out of alignment and I think I can correct that problem. I used Klutch .035 mig tips as they will work in my machine as well, they are only 3/4" long rather than the 1" twecos . I wish I did not have to use quite so many fittings to get wh…

Here's a stand I made for my single burner Mr. Volcano forge. I picked up a scrap brake disc from a local auto parts store, welded a 1/8th thick precut circle to it. Next was some leftover DOM tube I had as the main stem. Cooling shelf is expanded steel and angle bracket. Top is 3/16th" thick 12"x12" plate (just the right size and I already had on hand). The edges are also 3/16", welded and then ground down for aesthetic reasons. Overbuilt but heavy enough that it won't tip over or rock. Portable too so I can relocate in my garage when I want to fire the forge up!

Maybe there is a thread on this topic in this very large web site. Being spanking new to this site, I can't find that thread. OK guys be gentle, I am completely new to the forging and stock removal methods in knife making. Building a propane forge is out of the realm of possibilities. I have been using a coal forge, a forged steel anvil and a Little Giant 25lb power hammer in my shop for about 2 years. I am setting up a KMG in the shop at present. That being said, I am in the market for a commercially produced 2 burner propane forge. The budget is $500 including shipping. I have looked at the Diamondback and the Majestic. Any recommendations.

So my proforge is in need of a reline, and the burner assembly needs reattached for the 5th time. So this is a $600+ forge, in witch the cheapest reline kit is $120 (I have seen the forge for $1200 and liners for $500). As one can see, mounting said forge in a truck and hauling it all over is detrimental to this design. Whe I asked the manufacturer about how to beef it up so it would service, I was told not to mount it in a truck... ok, you did sell it as a ferriers forge, and 90% of us go to the client.... Anyhow, in the forges defense it has a 2” 3 piece liner (tho I belive their is a one piece liner available) with a custo…

Hello all, I just finished building a 3 burner frosty t forge and every time I try to light it the flame jumps up into the T. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, I got it to run for a little bit but just once. I have one of those regulators like they have on BBQ's I'm not sure if that is correct. I'm using .30 mig tips and a 3/4" - 1" reducer. 20230218_223853.mp4 20230218_223815.mp4

I'm currently using a 1 burner Simon forge lined with a k-wool blanket with coating supplied by the manufacturer and would like to build a brick forge. No need for forge welding. I Forge mostly ornamental. Can my new forge be built without blanket installation. I don't want to deal with the particle issue.

Hello! Long time fan of this forum. This is my first post so I want to start by thanking all of the knowledgeable smiths, the admins, and everyone else who makes this community as great as it is. Thank you! Ok so I am trying to semi-replicate the shape and size of a Chile Cayenne (oval) 2 burner forge. I like what Mikey has to say about the benefits of running an oval forge and since everyone seems to love Chileforge so much I figure that I should try to design my forge to match instead of reinventing the wheel. I understand that I won't have the same burners but the size and shape match what I need so why not? Now I have been known to overcomplicate projects before…

Hey all, I’m at the starting phase of my actual build and wanted to have a thread to both document the process, and hopefully get feedback of the older and wiser, and hopefully get a few questions answered. Not only do I fully acknowledge my own ignorance/inexperience, but I also appreciate constructive feedback (I.e. … I get that some of my ideas may be misguided, but I’d appreciate an explanation or link that explains why/how I’m wrong or what I need to reconsider). Starting off, I believe I have all the materials needed with the exception of a few components for my new burner system. I’m wanting to build a two piece shell-D shape(figure it’ll make repair’s easier …

I bit off a bit more than I can chew and jumped into a double burner hero 2 Mr volcano forge as my first forge. I tend to only use 1 of the burners as I do not do that many projects that reach all the way to the second burner and it saves fuel as well. Should I take the second burner out of the forge when it's not running? If so 2 questions come to mind. 1. Is it safe to have it dangling there as long as the ball valve is off? 2. Do I need to close off that hole that the burner would go into ? Thanks

13_11_17.mp4 Opinions? I just finally finished building this forge. My question is do you think it will forge safely? Venturi style burners connected to 200 psi reinforced plastic tubing, all connections are brass barbed fittings with hose clamps except for the regulator hose which is threaded. Hose wrapped in heat resistant tape. Will the fittings or ambient air be too hot and soften the hose? During forging I will definitely not have the hose close to the forge. It is just coiled in the picture/video.

So burner starts as second image. Nice roaring blue flame but then turns to image one especially if I try to fire up more burners. .030 welding tip as orifice going down to a .023 made no difference. If I increase gas pressure or open the needle valve more the flame "pops" and runs up inside the burner. Any suggestions? Anyone around Calgary or Hanna?

The floor of the Chile forge I received doesn’t seem to have rigidizer on it, but the walls/ceiling of the forge do. Since the ceramic floor tile goes over the floor, covering the exposed wool, do I still need to rigidize that part? So far, everyone has told me I’m good to go but I don’t exactly understand why and want to be sure before I destroy my lungs.

So I have a NC Tool Whisper baby forge and up until today it worked fine. I used it yesterday with no problems. Today I tried to light it up and it took a sec but lit and stayed working for about 2 hours. In the last 20-30 min, it seemed like the gas would cut off/flame would go out for a split second and then re-light. Then it just went out. I check the valves and the whole burner itself and saw no blockages. I was told it was either the tank or the regulator so I got a new tank to test and it still won't work. It seems to light now for about 10 sec and then the flame like blows back and there is a quick flash of fire out the back side of the burner and then the fire die…

Hi everyone, i wanted to ask a question regarding building my first propane forge. My last forge which i built a few years ago was a coke forge which worked great, but i want to take the step towards propane for i have my own propane bottles, gauges, etc. I wanted to ask is it possible to build a propane forge that could be used for tempering also? I would like to build my own hand and a half sword so having a forge long enough to evenly distribute the heat before quenching would be great, but to also have the ability to use the forge as an oven for tempering would be very helpful.. Is it possible to build a forge that can do both, or would it be bett…

A friend of mine recently gifted two of these assemblies to me upon recognizing they were some sort of high heat burner, he acquired them in a storage unit auction so no background on where they may have come from. Our town is home to the largest steel mill west of the Mississippi, it's not uncommon to encounter some amazing pieces of equipment from days gone by collecting dust in barns or garages that were bought or salvaged and brought home by a steel-mill employee. I'm just wondering what they would have been used to heat? The "chimney" shown was with them, and sort of fits on top of them but not very well, it is metal with glaze like smooth coating on its horizo…