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Found 49 results

  1. Getting a Gas Forge

    So I have been using a hand crank coal forge for some time now and have been getting tired of starting and maintaining the fire. I've been looking into buying a gas forge and have looked at Majestic Forge and Diamondback forges. After reading some threads in here I decided magestic was poorly made and couldn't weld easily. I looked at Chile ones too but that is out of my budget. I want to know if any of you have had problems with a diamondback Forge (I want the 2 burner blacksmith model). Or if you think it would be worth my time and money to just make one and buy the burners then any advice on insulation would be great. Also, I want a forge that can do some good welding. I want to try some Damascus in a few months.
  2. Blown propane Forge Question

    Ok so i have looked through this forum for the past two days and i cant find the answer to my question. i am currently planning my first blown propane forge while i am out to sea so i can build it when i return home. I was wondering what diameter of pipe is best used for the mixing pipe that leads into the forge. i have seen people use all the way up to 2.5 in pipe. that seems a little large for me. i think that i will be making the forge out of a 7 gallon or so airtank. i have been thinking of running a dual burner set up mainly for better heat distribution. i would have valves on each individual burner to be able to control them individually. Also is using the precision nozzle like in a venturi burner required for a blown burner or will simply a piece of 1/4in. pipe sufficient. I think i will be building something similar to a peot forge. what is everyone thoughts?
  3. Hey there I need some help with hooking up the burners to my forge. Im new to smithing and this is my first attempt at a forge. My forge has 3 trex burners and my goal is to be able to use them independantly or all together. I have researched how the propane distribution block should look and came up with this. Pics attached. My issue is to go from the distrobution block to the burners i need to use flexible copper tubing and to connect it im using compression fittings, the issue is the compression fittings keep leaking ive tried a hundred times and i just cant get them not to leak propane a bit. Is there a special way to do this? Any help would be great. Thanks
  4. Ladies and gents - I am building a gas forge this winter. Planning to use Michael Porter's basic propane cylinder design. Because it is already piped to my property, I would like to use natural gas. This would eliminate the need for bottles, and for keeping them changed. Is it possible to use natural gas instead of propane with a simple, naturally aspirated forge? Are there any cons to doing so? Do you know of any guides or FAQs about doing so? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  5. T burner

    I have recently follow frosty's T burner plans and have one problem,my burner will be running good with dark and light blue flames it will suddenly go out and I would have to re light it. any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
  6. Burner concept questions

    I was recently looking through instructable and stumbled upon this image and was wondering if it would be a suitable burner for a long and low heat treat/bladesmithing forge? Also here is the link to the instructable. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-BBQ-Burner/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email im mostly wondering if it would be able to get up to temperature or what modifications would be needed. I already own a small home built forge so this is strictly outta curiosity. thanks in advance
  7. Burners

    In my previous post I learned that my oddball burners probably would not get hot enough for a forge so now I am wondering what the cheapest burner design that runs on propane is. My forge is 28"x8"x8", and I would also like to know how many burners I should have in my new forges construction.
  8. Hello all, I am going to start building my forge and I am just finishing ordering everything, I have a few questions about insulation. From what I have read, it seems like using ceramic wool is the easiest way to insulate a gas forge, I know it needs to be replaced once in a while because it wears down. Is it best to have 2" of insulation? And are you supposed to line the wool with refractory cement? Or just use straight wool? I know the stuff is bad for your lungs and I was wondering if it lets particles off in the air while it's burning. I plan on laying fire bricks on the very bottom of my forge. Thanks in advance.
  9. I couldn't find this posted here before, so I thought I'd post it up. From Lewis Razors: He has a build video too, the most interesting step of which is hammering the brass (copper?) tube to narrow the ID sufficiently to hold the mig tip. Cheers.
  10. Hi I have just lit up my small home built gas forge for the first time. It is firebrick lined with refractory cement lined with Metrikote. There are some flaking issues with the latter but that is not my question here. I bought the burner online from what claims to be a blacksmithing school here in the USA who make them to help support their business so I figured it was a safe option. I had lit the burner for a few minutes and it was 'on' and there was blue flame visible through the 'ports' you can see high up near the gas connection and a nice roar but the flame coming out of the business end was almost invisible and did not seem to be generating huge heat. I tried heating some very thin stock and it got hot but nowhere near orange heat. Suddenly, and for no obvious reason I could see, the flame 'switched on' and became a roaring pale blue jet projecting down inside the forge chamber. This brought my stock to red heat in a matter of seconds. I then put in a thicker piece (about 1/2 inch square, some sort of small pry bar) and that was at red heat in very short order. I would love to know what changed and how I can get that flame back, I turned the gas off and then lit it again and I was back at the low heat flame, playing with the propane regulator did not seem to make any difference. The burner itself has no adjustments I can see apart from how far into the chamber the end projects (at the moment the end is probably 3/4 inch inside the firebrick - should it maybe be nearer the inside surface of the forge?) Looking forward to any suggestions, I want that flame back Pictures of the burner and the forge in use attached Thanks Dave
  11. Hey Guys. The Edmonton Blacksmith Shop is looking at selling their forge burners separately. They have put them up on their website to gauge interest to see if they will choose to make them available for purchase. I bought their forge and though I haven't used it much (and know even less about forging) it seems quite capable. It would be nice to have a Canadian option for forge burners for those of us north of the border who would like to make their own forge but don't wish to fiddle with burners. I would encourage anyone interested to check them out so they might make them available. This is not intended as an advertisement and I have no affiliation with this shop. I know I looked a while myself for a burner option in Canada before I just bought my forge. http://edmontonblacksmithshop.com/blacksmithing-tools-and-equipment
  12. New propane forge build.

    Hello, I've made some progress in building my first propane fired forge. The forge body is 8" id (before insulation) and a length of 12" Lined it with 2 layers of 1" 8lb density Kaowool, followed with some Rigidizer and about 3/8" of Satanite. Installed on the forge floor is a 1" hard fire brick. Burner is a 3/4" running around 5-6psi. I used some soft firebrick as a temporary doors at each end. I couldn't wait to fire it up! I am in the process of building a proper stand for it.
  13. Propane torch not staying lit

    I bought a bran new propane torch for 30 bucks. It will be for my gas forge, once I can figure out why it won't stay lit! The torch is hooked up to a PSI regulator, 0-20 PSI. Here is the regulator : https://www.amazon.com/GASPRO-Pressure-Propane-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B01M4SA4PG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1487707210&sr=8-16&keywords=psi+regulator I turn the psi all the way up and light the torch, and it instantly dies. After fooling around, I figured out that covering the air holes on the burner keeps the flame alive, but burns very slowly, obviously.. The moment I move my hand off of the air holes, the flame goes out. What is going on here?! Pictures of the torch :
  14. New gas forge build (pic heavy)

    Well I had everything set up to build this forge and then got side tracked with a forge off of e-bay that was only a few miles away, it ended up blowing out, Link below. and I decided that I would finish the project I had started and one day possibly salvage the other one to have a monster forge!! But for now this little guy is all I really need. So sit back and enjoy some pictures and I'll take you through what I have done so far. Please feel free to offer guidance as this is the first forge I have built. I've just been going off of this page and learning as I go! Step 1, get a shell, I scored this old air tank at St. Vincent for $3 its the same size as a 5 gal propane tank but it had an extra valve and no fear of blowing up from a spark when I cut into it. WIN WIN! I took some 1" square tube and welded it on as feet so Harrison Forge could stand on his own, these will be visible when we move down and he gets flipped over. For my first layer of insulation I used 8# 1" thick 2700 degree Inswool HTZ from HighTempTools. It's doubled up in this photo. I used a K28 kiln brick for a floor. Side note. I layed down a layer of kast-o-lite under the brick to give it a flat surface under it, you can kind of see it on the left side of the brick here. And a packed in a bunch more Inswool, I used 2x 1" pieces, and packed the scraps in around the front and back of the brick.The back side, which I think will become the front because I like the big open hole... Giggity. I had some K24 kiln bricks that I was just going to stack as the doors but then decided to take a little extra time and weld up some brackets to hold them while I had everything out and was in fab-mode. Door's being measured out. I wanted them to stay on the bracket when full open. A top bracket will be added for extra stability later. Now to get my supports measured with my super high tech method of "Calibrated Eye" and prep them for welding on the belt grinder. Now it's time to set them up and weld them in place on the forge. Weld area preped! I measured where the brick would be centered for the door then using a level and soap stone etched a line to guide my holder placement. I did the same on the other side, in the effort to save picture over load it is not shown, but looks remarkably similar. Getting everything lined up. Once in place a quick tack weld to hold it until the other side can also be put in place. With one side tack welded, I moved on to the other and made sure it was all squared away using the first one as a reference point. Now with both support arms in place I can measure exactly where I want my brick holder to be. It's hard to tell in this pic but there is about 1/8" gap between the brick and the front of the forge. I wanted a good enough cap so that when I added the kast-o-lite the brick would still be able to move freely. With the door all tack welded and everything still square I finished up the welds on all fronts. Now time for some Kast-o-lite!! I didn't get any pictures of the mixing with this becuase it ended up being a lot faster than I thought it would. I don't remember if I read it here or saw it on youtube but it stuck with me that someone said you only have 15 minutes once you mix it to get it how you want it before you're times up. They weren't kidding, I'd say 10 is probably closer to it. But it was super easy just mix with water and it feels like that stuff from Nickelodeon Kids, Squand maybe? Anyways I only had a 5# bag from HighTempTools and it ended up being plenty for this little guy. And I have some left over that will probably go to patching up my farriers forge. All in all it's about 1/2"-3/4" thick, I went back and stuffed it around where the bunner lets in just to make sure there was NO unprotected Inswool. I started building this forge because my antique NC tool Farrier forge wasn't able to get up to welding temp and I wanted something with just a little bit more room for stock. But I have read on here many times about how hard flux is on your floor and I knew I wanted a floor I could take out and throw away when it got to laden with flux and such. So I took a K28 Kiln brick and cut it into 3rds (Using the calibrated eye again!) One of those I then cut in half to make up for the total length of my floor. I like this as 1 brick yields 2 full forge floors. And for about $5 a brick is only $2.50 for a new floor. Small price to pay for the sweet satisfaction of a weld well done! With these I can just set them in the forge and when they get ruined swap them out, very quick and easy. Right now my Kast-o-lite is setting up, and I am waiting until tomorrow to do my burn in to let it have a full 24 hour cure time. I know Frosty The Lucky talked about replacements for ITC-100 that were a little more affordable, so I am still looking into what I will coat the inside of the kast-o-lite in. As far as burner I cheated ad also got one from a blacksmith school in seattle. I originally planed on making my own but by the tie I got everything to build it i was around $30 plus time and effort. And a ready to go 150K BTU burner was only $50 so I said "To the Birds!" and just bought one. Big thanks to everyone who contributes on this group, I love learning form everyone here. -Coyote
  15. How to fix my keg furnace?

    I recently finished putting together a new furnace made from an old keg. The top and bottom are solid 2700F refractory and the walls are 2" kaowool with a refractory shell. My burner is this Venturi. I took the furnace up to my brother-in-law's farm to do its first firing for curing and ran into a problem that I hope someone can help me with; you may be able to hear me mentioning in the videos, but for clarity the furnace runs great while I have the lid off but when I put it on the flame chokes out, spraying nothing but propane. I have to dial my PSI down extremely low in order to sustain a flame inside with the lid on and it isn't a sufficient heat source to get me to melting temp in any sort of practical time frame. I expect that the answer is simply to continue to fiddle with it further until I have it dialed in, but are there any obvious issues? This is something I would ask about over at Alloy Avenue, but I still haven't been approved for an account; their registration process is peculiar.
  16. hello everyone , at first this is my first time posting here and i am from the netherlands so my english wont be perfect . i watched a video about making a propane burner for my selfmade foundry ( so i finished the build but it does not work like the one in the video here are some photos's and a video of my burner .: so as you can see the torch does not burn right and it burns inside the supply tube aswell.. i am out of ideas what it can be please help video-1477765585.mp4
  17. So here is what happened: I have recently bought a $130 Devil Forge (I got this one). Now after I ordered it, I realized that this doesn't have a connection kit( no hose, regulator, valve) and I need one. What I was thinking do can do is get a regulator, a hose, and a gasket. Clamp the hose onto the burner using the gasket, then connect the hose to the regulator, regulator to the tank. Since these guys are from Europe it's kinda hard to contact them. So would my idea work? If not, what world work and where can I buy it? Welding supply, propane store? I need to know what will work and where to get what I need to connect the burner to the tank.
  18. Gas forge connector -urgent-

    Hi guys I have recently bought a forge: http://m.ebay.com/itm/252086987885?_mwBanner=1 it doesn't come with a connection kit, which is why I am here. Is there any thing I can buy in the US that will serve as a connector kit, connecting the propane to the regulator, then the hose? Do I have to cut off the top of say a barbecue hose and connect it to the burner with a air tight clamp? I need help because I am so urgent to start working. Thanks! PS links on what to buy is WELL appreciated.
  19. Started working twin burners

    Started working on my forge's twin burners this week. So far, everything is turning out great. I have not tested this design yet, but plan to do so soon. I started off by taking a close look at my TurboTorch tips that I use at work (Acetylene gas). Here's a picture of the TurboTorch tip (A11). I too extra notes on the brass section of the torch tip, where the gas begins to mix with air. The gas flows from the regulator into a small chamber, with a very tiny hole machined in it. This little hole sits just before the air intake, which is proportional to the overall diameter of the tip size. I know this because other air intake holes on smaller and larger TurboTorch tips that I have increase and decrease based on tip size (A5 vs A11 for example). Here's a picture of the air-intake holes. Here's a somewhat poor picture of the little hole inside the tip I'm talking about. Anyways, I started considering how I could make this into a larger burner with propane gas for my forge. After learning a bit about forge burners form various sources (mostly the black hole of the Internet where I lost most of my soul), I took a trip to the hardware store (Ferguson Plumbing Supply where I do most of my day-to-day business for work). I purchased a few 1/4 brass fittings, including a 1/4 to 3/8 90. I took the small 1/4 brass cap which I purchased (hex) and drilled a 1/16th hole dead center in the cap. I took a 12" black nipple (also purchased from Ferguson) and cut off the threads. I then proceeded to drill a lot (like, swiss cheese-lot) into the top of the nipple about 3" down. I tapped some set-screws into the side of the gas pipe to hold my reducing 90 (still to be determined if this is the best way to center the fuel hole in the burner). I slid a small piece of stainless steel pipe (one which fit nearly perfectly over the 3/4 gas nipple) up the pipe and used a screw to set it in place (to control air flow for tuning). This covered some of the holes that I drilled earlier on. Finally, I choose to use a small piece of stainless steel pipe which was flared out at the bottom of my burner. I connected it to the 3/4 gas nipple via a set screw as well. The 1/16 hole in the hex cap as seen through the mostly-completed burner. The first burner, and the soon-to-be burner. I need to test the first one before I make the second. Ok. Tell me what you think. People - I'm not looking for drama. The last few posts I've made here have been met with some ornery little kid crap. If you don't like the way I write, move on people. There's at least a few thousand personalities on this forum. You won't get along with everybody. Moving on, away from the drama, I would like some honest opinions. I've never built a forge or burner before. ________________________________________________________ That's it. Let me know how I'm doing. Be joyful. Be friendly. Live life to it's fullest, and have no regrets. I forgot to take a close up picture of the little holes I drilled in the 3/4" nipple. They are as evenly spaced as I could get them with no drill press (soon I'll have one of those too). Again, I modeled the air-intake after the holes on the turbo torch. This post has been heavily edited by Claytonzeimet. Quotes below were made before the edits.
  20. Building a gas forge

    I've officially started building my first gas forge. Honestly, I've never done something like this. Most of what I know about smithing comes from the black hole known as the Internet. So, I'm reaching out. I'm starting a thread to get input from the community as I run into problems. Here's what I got so far: It's a propane tank with a big hole cut into the top. I made the hole approximately 8" in diameter. I did this to make it easier to insulate the thing, and light it up later on. Notice, I've sanded all the paint and little rust down to bare metal. I plan to use high heat primer and paint on it later on. Please note - the 8" hole is not the forge opening. I plan to mount a hinge somewhere on the top of the forge, and connect a 8" saw blade to it. The saw blade will have a single layer of 1" Kaowool, and 1/4" of Satanite on it. The center of the saw blade will have a 3.5" hole in the center to allow forge gasses to vent out proportionately. The inside of the forge will be lined with 2" of kaowool, and 1/4" to 1/2" of Satanite (whatever feels right when I'm putting it on). I'll also have a sacrificial firebrick floor which will be replaced when needed. I haven't finished building my burners yet, but they are coming. They will be two 300,000 BTU 3/4" propane jet burners with machined orifices (not torch tips). My math says that this thing should be able to get to forge welding heat with little to no problem. I'll also have a small door in the back (hinged on/ stainless) which will only open when an object is passed through it. Questions I have for the community: I'm still not sure where the burner placement should be. Should I go directly on top? I understand some people put the burners at 15 degrees off dead center to provide a swirl of some sort. What is this swirl? Can someone take a photo of it for me so I can better understand what I'm actually trying to accomplish? How do I attach the burners to the forge? I don't have a welder. I'm thinking some short black pipe nipples and corresponding nuts? Just not sure. I'm sure I'm going to come up with lots of more questions in the future. I'll ask on this thread as stuff comes up. Thanks for the help!
  21. Propane tank foundry

    Is it safe to cut into a brand new empty propane tank to make a foundry? It was bought without ever being filled, so am I guaranteed I won't blow up or should I still remove the valve?
  22. Propane Forge, need advice

    Im building a gas fuel/refractory forge in class and i wanted some advice on how much gas/in^3 i need... specifics: 15"x27" 30 gallon drum, insulated 3.5" to form an 8" chamber volumes: drum--4771.17 cu.in. chamber--1181.35 cu.in. the refractory takes up 3590.05 cu.in. and i plan to have an insulated half-lid... how much gas/air do i need in the chamber?
  23. Ok, so me and my parter have made a few knives and are happy with our results so we think we're ready to move onto forge welding and making some demascus. I've got a pretty simple design in my head. I have an old propane tank I can cut the bottom and top out of. Going to cut a hole it, shove a weed burner in it ,fill it with a firebrick/ refractory cement mixture up to the lip and coat the outside with kaowool. I don't like doing things twice so I'd like to do it right and I've heard that most fluxes can tear through basically anything pretty quickly so I've done some research on materials I can line the inside with to protect it. Mostly what I've heard is there's nothing to do accept touch up the cement periodically, but I recently ran into a product from a company called homesaver that's used to line fireplaces. It's called "Flue goo" and I've heard a few smiths say it's suppose to be very resistant to flux. It's about $30 a gallon so I'd like to know if anyone has any experience with it and if so is it worth it? If not is there any other products you suggest that would protect the inside of my forge?
  24. regulator question

    i am about build a propane froge first one . my question is can i use the regulator off of a acetaline bottle set up or do i have to have the adustable one from a propane supply house i. i can get a regulator from harbor frieght for 35 and a hose for 15
  25. I've been using Michael Porter's Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns as plans to build my gas forge and burner. The plans recommend I use a Tweco .030 or .035 inch MIG welding contact tip, 1-1/2-inch long. I have no experience with these parts, and have no idea what the importance is of the length, the taper, etc, and I've been unable to find this part anywhere. The drawings in my plans show a tapered MIG tip (shown in attachment), but I've had difficulty finding anyone who carries any contact tips with tapers. Most parts I've been able to find have a rounded end. Does the overall length of the MIG tip, the inside diameter, and the taper on the end affect performance? If not, I'll just buy one that I can find readily, and not have to go searching for this exact piece.