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About Mikey98118

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  1. Burners 101

    Yes, that is true. They can also be tamped into position in a friction fit, and that's where they stay too. I like to cut the tube a little long, and then hand sand it shorter until it runs perfectly in a given burner; this goes much faster than it sounds because the tube has a thin wall. There is a learning curve that gives people anxiety only until they get into doing this once or twice; then how easy it actually calms them right down. I like #400 grit paper and a little spit, combined with a circular motion.
  2. Burners 101

    You have to use hypodermic tube to get inside diameters like 028" very easily; the tube is then pushed into a MIG contact tip with the right size hole, or one that has been drilled out to the hypodermic tube's outside diameter. There are other ways of course, such as brass capillary tube, but they come and go in the marketplace.
  3. pyrometer

    We all just want you to have the information you need; speaking of which I would like to point out that ALL the burner designs recommended in the sticky threads section of this forum will work just dandy in a forge. You don't need to build one of mine to get satisfactory results.
  4. pyrometer

    High yellow should be plenty of heat in the work to suit anyone wanting to weld; that would be about 2300 F. 2500 F is white hot; more than is needed. Note that what color of incandescence you see depends on the light level in your work area; therefore, you need an area lite burning in tthis area before beginning to judge work temperatures by incandescence.
  5. Burners 101

    High EDE, The standard .030" orifice diameter found in contact tips for .023" welding wire is just a little oversize for half-inch burners. So .028" inside diameter tube would be perfect, although .026" tube should work by shortening the tube more than the length used for 028" inside diameter tube. Even the larger tube must be shortened from the standard 1-1/2" long MIG tips; this is needed to reduce friction losses in the smaller tube diameters. The friction I am referring to is caused by gas molecules bumping into each other in the confined spaces of these tube diameters; it has nothing to do with the smoothness of the tube walls. Any roughness of the wall would only add to the friction.
  6. Burners 101

    Added input air in burners Industrial blowers are used in fan-blown burners that are intended to produce positive flame pressure; these are used to overcome backpressure in some kinds of heating equipment and/or burners, such as some ribbon burner designs. A much smaller amount of added air pressure is an easy way to bring weak linear burners up to snuff. How much is about the same amount as an ordinary breath; this can be provided by the average computer fan. Anything beyond this well end up requiring burner changes to bleed off the excess kinetic energy, less the winds generated should blow out the burner's flame. How big a computer fan? Big enough to match the large end of the burner's air opening; doing this will tend to give the right amount of added air; not too large or too small. You can use either standard bladed box type fans or squirrel cage fans for the purpose of pushing air into a reducer fitting or cone-shaped air opening. Avoid fans with impeller blades; they create a completely different effect, which requires special handling and can create a serious hazard if handled improperly.
  7. pyrometer

    Optical pyrometers have many around for many decades and are considered the best way to judge very high temperatures accurately; lots of expense and/or work learning how to use them properly. On the other hand, it generally takes about 2700 F of continual forge temperature to melt steel; if that isn't a fancy enough temperature indicator for someone, perhaps a little overwork and expense would help them appreciate common sense better.
  8. Newbie

    Yes, you need to do some tweaking. I suggest you start with page one and read clear through the Burners 101 thread on this forum. It's all very nice to design your own burner, but it helps out a lot to have some idea what you're doing.
  9. home brew gas forge

    He is a bonehead, but it isn't just insurance companies who are pressing acetylene toward the brink; its production leaves messes that don't sit well with organizations like the EPA. When the last MAPP line switched over to propylene fuel gas in 2008 (it only had a minor percentage of acetylene in it) I heard the bell tolling. I've been around long enough to see enough boneheads get together and shout down the voice of reason repeatedly.
  10. Coops First Forge

    No. The Kast-O-lite refractory constitutes a seal coat for the ceramic insulation (((among other things). It is to keep water content from being trapped as the steam between the seal coat and steel container that you need a weep hole. And yes, the existing threaded hole will probably do just fine.
  11. home brew gas forge

    Dropping down from oxyacetylene to propane and air gave me a lot of hesitation too... twenty-two years ago. Burners have come a long way since them. You need to mentally let go of torch technology and embrace burner technology--or forget forge work. If you don't get your head in the game you'll make a big mistake, like trying to use an acetylene regulator to run propane.
  12. how to determine the size of a burner?

    I love small; all my favorite cars were and are small; the wife and house are too. Anyone who follows my writing knows that I get excited about small burners in small forges. But sometimes we just gotta look up from our obsessions and admit that the other guy's dog is pretty cool too. Ribbon burners aren't my thing, but they are still magic.
  13. how to determine the size of a burner?

    Okay, two bars are about 30 PSI gauge pressure, so .7 to 1 bar more means your burner blows out at about 45 PSI; that doesn't say much for their stability in this forge. On the other hand, fan-blown ribbon burners provide positive pressure; they are also a better design for larger forges. I suggest that this path solves both of your problems while providing the most frugal design for fuel use. Your forge is too large to use off-site anyway, so such fan-blown burners present no downside.
  14. Coops First Forge

    You would do well to leave a small steam and water drain hole (about 1/8") in the bottom of the forge to allow collected moisture to escape through before heating the seal coating. The second "T" photo shows an excellent flame. I think that both your efforts and photo records have been outstanding so far. I don't know why they haven't generated more comments. Would you look to go into your door design more?
  15. Amount of fiber blanket for a 20# propane tank

    Most American tanks have similar sizes; but not all. Foreign built tanks can be very different in sizes and shapes.