• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Mikey98118

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Seattle, WA

Recent Profile Visitors

7,659 profile views
  1. I would not go so far as to say "little or go good," but it certainly is not optimal
  2. Three is the magic number To answer your question, Jbradshaw: Only if you want to "play it safe." I originally went for larger air openings then I needed, to play it safe. Since then, the group has discovered that more spin is better than unused extra opening space, BUT, if you under estimate how much opening is needed, you will end up needing to do some extra work to enlarge them. To get back to your question, yes, you can end up with wider rib widths--without sacrificing any of the total air opening space by reducing down from four ribs to three; a win-win situation.
  3. I don't think a forge, or any other kind of hot work equipment--including jewelry torches--has any business running inside a house, or inside an attached garage. Sometimes "the little woman" just happens to be UTTERLY RIGHT!!!
  4. Have you looked at the ribbon burner thread? That is the place to ask questions about ribbon burners.
  5. I reduced the number of openings to increase swirl as the air comes into the burner, with the side benefit that the total amount of rib widths will increase for the same amount of of opening. Unfortunately, two openings will reduce swirl; not good.
  6. That is completely normal. You should put it deeper into the forge, leaving only about 1'' inside of its inner wall (hot face). It should then become yellow hot.
  7. Some questions have answers that are either right or wrong; others come down to a person's druthers
  8. In the Forges 101 thread we discuss various kinds of gas forges, including brick pile forges--hint hint
  9. There are updated versions of both kinds of burners. My changes are distributed all over this thread; sorry for the inconvenience. Frosty has just given a concise update to his burners, all in one place.
  10. You are quite right about reading flame temperature being a hard task; actually, it is a very expensive nut to crack; not one I was willing to pay for, either My point is that we don't want to forget that they aren't the same nut. Is this just nit picking? Nearly twenty years back a student sent a model showing his idea of one of my early burner designs, for evaluation; it was hilarious, being about 23" long. I cut it down to a reasonable length without changing its flame, and sent it back to him...BUT he had taught me a valuable lesson as too; namely that all of us were tuning our burners to neutral flames and ignoring hotter possible flames--just because!!! They are called Hybrid burners now. So, I'm not saying anything about your method, just reminding us all--including me--not to overlook the obvious again
  11. I started out by using galvanized pipe for the choke sleeve, since its inside diameters tend to be just a little larger than black iron pipe, and once the galvanizing is burned off, grinding is reduced to power sanding. But stainless steel tube could be purchased with large enough inside diameters, so that even sanding wasn't needed, and its small price was offset by the fact that it had good appearance. Since my burners called for buying S.S. tubing for their flame retention nozzles anyway...
  12. Well, maybe. But you are reading forge temperatures, which is not as straight forward to deal with as burner flame temperatures.
  13. Titanium readily reacts with oxygen at 2190 °F in air, so be sure to keep the forge atmosphere reducing.
  14. "T" burners seem to work just fine in ribbon burner forges. I hate to turn away costumers, but if I were planning to build a ribbon burner forge, I would be haunting their pages to pick up all the background available