Mikey98118

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About Mikey98118

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  1. Aphasia ain't so bad; it only took three months to complete a first sentence after the second stroke
  2. Putting on the brakes A hard flame, is essentially a controlled explosion; it creates a weak force. But the outward push of a gas flame isn’t equal in all directions. The gas/air mixture is being flung forward, so there is a little more shove away from the burner’s end, than in any other direction. All things being equal, the harder the flame is tuned the faster the gas/air mixture will rush forward, and the greater that imbalance will grow. At some point, the out flung mixture will force the flame far enough from the ignition source to snuff it. Atmospheric pressure is a constant force all around the flame. But, create a low pressure area at the burner’s exit (by use of a flame retention nozzle), and atmospheric pressure will press the flame harder against that one area than all others; the difference isn’t much, but it is enough to allow much harder flames to be used, because the kinetic force of the air and gas molecules are also minimal.
  3. Loved the imagery. Too bad people will think its an exaggeration. Imagine that a usually smart friend decided to use air hose fittings on his fuel hose...now imagine being present, when the seals gives way, and several fires start almost at the same time--all over his shop Fortunately, there was a regulator between the fuel cylinder and that hose; they were only little fires...so he still has a shop.
  4. And that is a legitimate view, too It's not the only view though. In more than four decades working steel, with half that time working on ships and work sites, have afforded a very long view. If you're "on the tools" long enough, you see the reasons behind safety rules play out the hard way over and over; its often quite ugly.
  5. I use the regulator for safety, and needle valve for quick control; a regulator will also provide fine control; if you've got lots of time to fiddle... Propane hose is rated for considerably higher than cylinder pressure can climb, without its relief valve engaging; that's all fine and dandy (if your tank is located outside and away from ignition sources). But, are there any cracks or other weak spots in the hose? How about the seals between hose and pipe fittings? If the burner's gas orifice gets plugged from the tar and wax, which can accumulate in the fuel cylinder, your whole system will be exposed to the full pressure in the tank--without a regulator.
  6. Permanent threads on this forum are bound to grow long. Skimming, as Frosty advised, is one answer. Building a "T" burner, following his plans is a quicker path to success at a low cost in money and time
  7. Air swirl is where it all begins The most practical method of maintaining an even temperature in a forge or casting furnace, or mixing fuel gas and air in a burner is swirl. But if that swirl happens through a constriction, such as a reducer fitting, funnel, or "T" fitting that is mounted so that a smaller outlet than its two air inlets is connected to a mixing tube... The power of swirl is joined to the magic of vortical flow. If you add just one more tiny detail to this picture, the benefits become dramatic. The "T" fitting does this automatically, because its two larger air entrances introduce air from opposite sides of a reducing exit. It takes less energy for air to start swirling into a hole than it does to compress, and so rotation is formed early in the process. A Vortex burner employs the impeller blades of a computer fan to create swirl at the air entrance of a burner's funnel opening. 'You can even cut and bend a can lid, into a crude fan shape, and place over a reducer fittings large opening and improve burner performance; trumpet shaped opening? DITTO, for the same reason. EVERY LITTLE TRICK YOU CAN FIND TO START SWIRL AT OR BEFORE THE AIR TRANSITS THROUGH A REDUCER WILL JUMP PERFORMANCE, PERIOD--NO EXCEPTIONS. Air swirl first + reducer shape second = dragster
  8. The weed burner you used has a built in needle valve--not a regulator. The forge opening looks to be upside down. When you have the money, adding some length to your fuel hose would be wise.
  9. I would not follow that advice; it is meant to protect the gauge, encase you run the regulator wide open; who but a mad scientist type (guilty) would do that? On the other hand, the higher the PSI the gauge is intended for the less precise its measurement will be in the lower ranges. It is unlikely you will ever push pass twenty PSI, but is likely that you'll want accuracy at four PSI.
  10. Mikey98118

    Devil forge

    That will work just fine, for this task. Is it a perfect solution? You don't need a perfect solution; quick and dirty will work here
  11. If you slice out the area between the forward and aft holes in that burner, its performance will improve a whole lot; just a thought.
  12. Mikey98118

    Devil forge

    The "ends" of the forge are at the rear and forward openings; until you partially enclose them, or else place movable barriers (ex. brick walls) close to them, you will have a tunnel--not a forge.
  13. Mikey98118

    Devil forge

    The photos strongly indicate that, once the ends are finished, will end up with a very hot forge. The answer to your finish coating (or coatings) is implicit in the question. Install first coat and heat; if you're satisfied with the result; his answers answer the question for you
  14. Okay, let's flip to the other side of the coin, by thinking back toward the beginning of the process (air induction into the burner), from the end of the process: the flame. It's always all about the flame(s). The harder/faster/bigger the flame is the greater its explosive potential; and with that, it's tendency to blow itself off of the burner's ignition zone; snuffing itself out. The only counter-force holding the flame on the burner is the ambient air pressure it is pushing against, to make its getaway; which is negligible--unless there is a low grade vacuum (AKA low pressure area) in the flame nozzle to "glue the flame in place." The lower the mixture pressure within the flame retention nozzle, the stronger the "glue>" Also, the lower flow pressure is in the nozzle the greater its contribution to air induction at the burner entrance. BUT, the flame retention nozzle's low pressure area also serves to prevent flashback into the burner's mixing tube, were it could continue completely through the burner. The mixing tube itself serves best if its overall flow pressure is very low, because the higher pressure of the gas/air mixture into the mixing tube the higher the final pressure in the flame retention nozzle. So, coming now to the beginning. The greater air induction is into the burner, MINUS INCREASED AIR PRESSURE the better. Since air induction can be encouraged in a number of ways (ex. streamlining), but any increase in internal pressures are extremely hard to erase...