Mikey98118

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About Mikey98118

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  1. Just because there is a welding supply store in your town doesn’t mean that they will have the MIG tips you need in stock, or that they will bother to sell you one or two of them, even if they do. Your sale is hardly worth their paperwork. You can buy MIG tips as few as five or ten at a time online for less money than they will cost at your local welding supply store, and chances are that the shipping charge won’t amount to more than the gas and time you may waste receiving a rotten experience, while trying to buy them locally: Radnor and Tweco Model 14T (tapered) MIG contact tips are available through eBay and Amazon.com, often with free shipping.
  2. Mberghorn said, "I misspoke yesterday, by the way. The jet tip I have in my burners now is a .035 Tweco tip. I'm not sure where I saw that size recommended but I'm sure it was from an out-of-date page. I ordered the .023 tips this morning and I'll be swapping them out whenever they get here. In the mean time, I'm off to research the "Z" burner and the "Mikey" burner!!" In that case, dropping down to the .030" tip might help you burner's performance.
  3. Silver brazing capillary tube While there are a variety of sources for capillary tube, the easiest way to find any particular orifice size you need, still remains blunt end dispenser needles; all of which are stainless steel. Most easily available capillary and hypodermic tubes, are stainless steel; Stainless steels require the use of brazing alloys that contain 50% or higher silver content (the higher the better), and flux that is rated for use with stainless steel; most of these are black flux. I recommend Harris white flux for use on thin wall stainless tubing, rather than black flux, which is likely to be too aggressive. Just before brazing, use fine grit sandpaper to break up surface oxide, and to scratch up the tube’s smooth surface, wherever you want the silver braze alloy to adhere. Equally as important is to keep the flux well away from areas you don’t want the filler alloy to overrun, like the end of the capillary tube. Harris white flux for stainless steel (#348-SSWF7POP): https://www.amazon.com/J-W-Harris-348-SSWF7POP-Brazing-Paste%252c/dp/B00PB9WJZ4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467760440&sr=8-2&keywords=harris+stainless+steel+flux Rio Grande 65% silver content brazing alloy #3101100, which is excellent and inexpensive; it is especially recommended for small pieces, such as stainless needles and capillary tube: https://www.riogrande.com/Product/silver-wire-solder-20-ga/101100 It is best to push an oversize length of tube into the tip, add flux to the tube, and draw it back into the hole, leaving excess tubing protruding from the end of the gas jet; and then cut, sand, and deburr the tube to fit, after brazing. Brass or copper EDM tubing can also be used to provide the right size gas orifices, by combining them with MIG contact tip holders of other sizes. Heavy wall nickel and stainless steel capillary tubing can be hard to find in desired orifice sizes, but are still available from Small Parts, which is now owned by Amazon.com: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=srs%3D3041233011%26search-alias%3Dspecialty-aps&field-keywords=capillary+tube If you have the choice, I recommend heavy wall capillary tube (AKA gauge tubes) over thin wall hypodermic tube, if you can find them in the orifice diameters desired (as they are far less inclined to be partially dissolved by the flux, should you be a little too slow with your braze work): http://ziggystubesandwires.com/Capillary-Tubing Various heavy wall stainless steel capillary tubes are also available from: https://microgroup.com/store/fractional-stainless-tubing.html 1/16” (.0625”) O.D. in various inside diameters are available from Lab Express: https://www.labemco.com/capillary-tubing.html Stainless heavy all capillary tube is available from Rapid Tube: http://cadenceinc.com/catalog/product-group/type-316-ss-capillary-tubing-cut-to-length/ Stainless thin wall hypodermic capillary tubing are available in various orifice sizes from Rapid Tube & Wire: http://cadenceinc.com/catalog/product-group/type-316-stainless-steel-tubing/ Various diameters of stainless steel cleaning wire are also available from Rapid Tube & Wire: http://cadenceinc.com/catalog/product-group/304-stainless-steel-wire/
  4. I have preferred orifice sizes for my burner designs, and others have different preferences for theirs; its all good. Making gas jets from capillary tube & MIG contact tips Employing reusable dispensers needles in Luer lock adapters as gas jets on small burner are pretty straight forward, and the small amount of care needed to cut them to length and clean out internal burrs afterward are the same as are needed for heavy wall capillary tube. I recommend using a Tweco plain series 14 MIG contact tip, for .052” welding wire (which actually has a .064” orifice), to closely match with the outside diameter of heavy wall stainless steel capillary tube, which mostly comes in 1/16”, .0625”, or .064” outside diameters. You can choose to swage the capillary tube in place within a MIG tip; or you can employ a series 14T (tapered) MIG tip, if you are going to silver braze the capillary tube in place. These tips are 1/4” diameter and 1-1/2” long (excluding their threaded portion); their thread is 1/4-28. Miller also makes a series of contact tips that are 1/4” diameter by 1-1/2” long (excluding their threaded portion, which is also is 1/4-28), but they are not tapered. Because stainless steel capillary tube comes in vary limited diameters, other heavy wall brass or even copper tubing, normally employed as electronic discharge machining (EDM) tubes, are also used as gas jets. Even thin wall hypodermic can be used, so long as both its inside and outside diameters are listed; it is available as dispenser needles, and as 3’ to 5’ lengths. MIG contact tips come in limited diameters, as do capillary and hypodemic tubing. You must begin your search with a tube with the desired orifice size (inside diameter). Next, you try to find a MIG tip with as close a match to its outside diameter as possible. If the tip’s diameter is within .0005” oversize to the tip, it is easily swaged down to trap the tube in it. You merely have to drill a 1/4” diameter hole in a short piece of 1/2” x 1” bar. Begin by scribing a line on the 1” face of the bar, somewhere near its center, using a combination square. Then scribe a second line from it, over the a 1/2” face. Use the square to find the center of the line on the 1/2” face, scribe a cross mark, and center punch it; drill the 1/4” hole completely through the bar. Use a thin cutoff disc to cut completely through the bar at the first line, and clean off all burrs. Place the desired length of capillary tube into the MIG tip, and place them within your new swaging die; Hit its top sharply with a hammer. Cut off the excess tube within a 1/8” beyond the die, and hand sand it back even with the tip’s face. Then clean out any internal burrs, with torch tip cleaners. If the MIG tip’s orifice is too small for the capillary tube to fit in, Use torch tip cleaners to enlarge it a few thousandths of an inch. You will find one round file in the kit to be small enough to push back and forth within the MIG tip, while turning it slowly. Every few minutes, you need to check the hole against the capillary tube, as it gradually enlarges. The new orifice will not be parallel, but end up slightly tapered; probably by less than one thousandths of an inch all around the periphery of the capillary tube. If, you are committed to silver brazing you tube in place, continue filing until it will slide into the tip to its desired length; its end will stop against the wall of the tapered MIG tip’s orifice; helping to stop the filler alloy from plugging up the capillary tube. If you would rather avoid silver brazing, stop 3/16” short of the desired length, and cutoff the capillary tube 5/16” overlong. Place the tube in the MIG tip, and screw the tip into place in the burner, or within a part that will end up in the burner (or within a threaded hole in a block of steel; whatever). Tap the whole assembly against a metal surface, or tap a hammer against the excess tube, until it comes within 1/8” of the MIG tip’s front face. Use a circular motion on very fine sandpaper (at least #300 grit or finer) to reduce it down to even with the tip’s face; use the torch tip cleaners to remove the tube’s internal burr. Wire gauge drill bits can be hand spun in a pin vice to enlarge holes in MIG tips to within a couple of thousandths of an inch of your capillary tube, so that hand filing an available MIG tip orifice to the right inside diameter never needs to become tedious. It is important for the MIG contact tip in most burner sizes to be tapered for proper air flow from the air intakes as it passes by the gas jet on its way into the mixing tube, or the mixing area in tube burners. How important? How small is you burner? The smaller the burner the more important it becomes.
  5. Well; I guess I'll have to get back with the publisher! In the meantime, anyone can download a pirated PDF of the book for zero dollars.
  6. I think you have done well; also your flame position looks especially promising.
  7. ALL aluminum alloys lose their tempering at about 400 F; so over a short period of time it will not only become a funky overweight tool; iy will also bevome a weak one. Around its exhhaust openings, where forges with steel shells sometimes turn red, it will already have melted and run like water, since aluminum alloys turn liquid at 1200 F.
  8. I deal with Zoro; they are pretty good. But Supplyhouse.com is a pleasant surprise; thanks for that. If you read closely on his site, Larry said that his "Z" burner was hotter burning then his modified side-arm burner. It only takes changing out one fitting for another. Most burners nowadays employ MIG contact tips as gas jets; they are cheap, powerful and easily found; but, as with most things, they have irritating practical limits, which will sometimes force anyone who pursues maximum performance to go through some extra effort. The smallest contact tips are made for 023" welding wire; they have .031" orifice diameters, and are the best available tips for 1/2" burners. But .028" or .029" orifices would be better; you can only achieve that small an orifice by inserting a one inch long piece of capillary tube in the tip. For 3/4" burners, you have to choose between .023" and .030" MIG tips; one a little too small, and the other a little too large. I normally suggest purchasing the smaller tip, and enlarging it three or four thousandths of an inch with a set of torch tip cleaners. However, when used in a listless burner, the undersized tip can be just what the doctor ordered. Learning how to "tweak" burner performance is just as valuable as building the right burner design exactly according to the inventor's instructions.
  9. I've seen a lot of guys get discouraged when they where only an adjustment or small detail short of complete success. Keep going, and win it all.
  10. Many of us have been using copper MIG contact tips for gas jets for nearly twenty years, but they only come in a limited number of orifices; none of them tiny enough for gas jets on burners smaller than 1/2”. Capillary tubes of one kind or another become necessary for such jets. Hypodermic tubes will work, but vary in orifice size between manufacturers, and are too easily bent in their smaller sizes. Heavy wall stainless steel tubes don’t come in a large enough variety of orifice diameters. Half-hard brass EDM tubing also don’t come in enough variety of orifice diameters, but unlike stainless steel, half-hard brass is easily drilled; easily enough for an undersized orifice in brass EDM tube to be enlarged by hand, employing small numbered bits (AKA wire gauge drill bits) in a hand held pin vise (recommended), or pin vise drill (not so much). Millimeter size EDM tubes can be employed, since you are resizing their orifices, anyway. The nearest size MIG contact tip can served to silver braze the capillary tube into, by carefully drilling the tips orifice a few thousandths of an inch larger to match the outside diameter of the EDM tube; or by swaging the soft copper tip down a few thousandths on an inch to grip around an undersized outside diameter.
  11. First, please remember that your burner isn't doing bad as is. Sometimes it only takes a small change to get everything you are looking for from a particular burner design, so hang in there. You asked "Is that the optimal setting, 1/16" ahead of the point the burner will take?" Generally, yes. You want to run the flame nozzle back and forth to establish where the best amount of overhang is for the hottest flame, without destabilizing it; usually there is only 1/16" difference between best steady flame, and an unstable flame. I don't try to measure the difference; I just use a hex wrench in one of the set screws as a handle, as I run the nozzle back and forth on a lit burner, and then tighten it in place when satisfied. Why not give a particular amount of overhang? These torches are hand crafted products; no two are precisely alike. I have been building them for years, and no two of mine are exactly alike. The first thing off with this burner's flame is the amount of secondary flames showing; they are too large for this design. Secondly, there is white showing in the primary flame; it should only show a blue color. I can't see which size burner it is, but if it is the 3/4" version, you will find that the MIG contact tip chart on page 22 shows two different tip sizes for it, instead of recommending a particular tip; the .023" tip, and the .030" tip. One tip is a touch small, and the other is a touch large. In the book I recommend increasing the orifice diameter of the smaller tip a few thousandths of an inch with a set of torch tip cleaners, to reach an orifice size between the two of them. But, using the smaller tip to jump performance on a burner that just isn't coming up to scratch is also a smart move
  12. Start by removing the completely worthless pipe from the reducer's large opening; the only thing it can do there, is to restrict air flow. Then, replace the reducer fitting with with a larger one. If that other pipe is 3/4" size, than you would need a 2" x 3/4" reducer. While you have the cross pipe out, you can....oh wait. Why not just look up how to build a proper version of that burner design on Ron Reil's burner pages on the web?
  13. Sorry for the slow reply, 3/4" is the call-out size of the pipe. The rule of thumb is nine times the inside diameter of the pipe (or tube). The nominal inside diameter of a 3/4" schedule #40 pipe, ends up being 7/8" because pipe sizes were set back in the eighteen hundreds, before the age of steel dawned; back when pipe walls had to be thick. On the other hand, the difference of 1-1/8" shouldn't be that bad. Have you shortened the amount of over hang of your flame nozzle beyond the end of the mixing tube down to the minimum the burner will take, and then moved it back forward 1/16" for flame stability? I looked as carefully as I could at the area of the air openings, and did not see any bevels on their rear and forward edges; did I just miss seeing them?
  14. First forges I would suggest that you start with a mini-forge made from a non-refillable helium or Freon cylinder, Commonly used for building a knife maker's forge. These are two-gallon size containers. You could make a half-muffler oval forge, or a "D" shaped forge in this size range, but there is much less information available about constructing them, and so the Freon or helium cylinder forge is usually recommended to newbies. You can find a pretty complete account of how Ron Reil built his mini-forge on Ron Reil's Burner pages. You can find step by step instructions on how to build a a five gallon forge by downloading a pirated copy of Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, & Kilns, and simply down size the instructions to build a two gallon cylinder and a smaller burner. This will give you plenty of information to read while you're finding and prepping your first forge shell. Free Freon cylinders are available from HVAC dealers, and helium cylinders from party stores. You will want two 3/8" or one 1/2" burner to heat such a forge; Choose a Frosty "T" burner, a Zoeller "Z" burner, a Mikey burner, or a Reil burner with the MIG tip update. Forget using an angle grinder for cutting and grinding on the forge. Rotary tools are now available at reasonable prices, and are better suited to working on small parts. What about a two-brick, or a coffee-can forge instead? I only recommend them for people who want to build and fix hand tools, or as introductory forges for people with cold feet and no commitment beyond cutting costs to the bone. Since free insulation in the form of ceramic fiber scraps can be glued together with with fumed silica in water that is spritzed from a used cleaner bottle, I don't think the savings will be much. Unless you want to occasionally use your burner as a hand torch, the canister mount torches employed by some in two-brick and coffee-can forges are an economic mirage. By spending $20 on a 0 -20 PSI variable regulator, and borrowing your barbecue grill's five gallon propane cylinder, you can outstrip the false economy of fuel canisters in a single morning's use.
  15. You got most of the burner's details right. Unfortunately the mixing area; that section between the forward end of the air openings and the end of the tube, looks to be considerably shorter than the recommended nine times the inside diameter of the tube. Still, the burner would probably work okay in a forge. Or you could cut the mixing tube section down the the next smaller burner, with 1-1/4" of overlap to trap the smaller tube in, secure the smaller tube in place with set screws through the larger tube, and bevel the rear edge of the mixing tube, so as to prevent flow problems from occurring, and end up with all the performance you are hoping for.