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I Forge Iron

Mikey98118

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  1. Accessories kits Some tools come with a few accessories included, but not necessarily of decent quality. Most genuine bargains on accessories consist of a lot of one particular item, like stones, drums, or discs. By the time you acquire everything you need this way, their cost will be substantial. Typically, accessory kits have a lot of stuff you can’t use to work steel with, and very little of what you want. The Popoman Rotary Tool Accessories Kit is a 313-piece bonanza of mostly relevant parts for cutting, grinding, sanding, and drilling steel. The Populo kit contains 305 part
  2. Balancing accessories I have yet to find an accessories kit that doesn’t include a little blue or green oblong silicon carbide dressing stone; they are used to balance aluminum oxide grinding stones, wheels, and cutting discs, to keep your rotary tool from suffering degradation from excessive vibration. Cheap tools are as likely as not to have spindles, which were machined out of true with the tool’s axis; add unbalanced accessories to that, and bent mandrels and flung accessories are the next trouble that will rapidly be served up. A few light touches with a dressing stone on your access
  3. "Gas pressure management, has little to do with gas pressure, and in your case, everything to do with reducing the gaping holes at both ends of that forge. Furthermore, when you act on the very good advice about adding rigidizer and a refractory coating, closing down those openings will become even more necessary.
  4. Small burner sizes Naturally aspirated burners have large turn-down ranges. So, it seems a wide selection of burner sizes isn’t needed. But heat management is about more than how well fuel burns. The reason burners, whenever possible, are aimed on a tangent, is to cause their combustion gasses to swirl around equipment interiors; creating a longer distance from burner flame to exhaust opening. A long exhaust path increases the amount of "hang time” for energy to be deposited on equipment interiors. That seems obvious doesn't it? What isn't so clear is that most of the increased
  5. Yes, the flames up much improved. As to the pulsing problem, back-pressure has two aspects; one of them is the flames strength (push power). So, turning down the burner to avoid too much back-pressure will become counterproductive if the flame becomes too feeble. Turn UP your gas pressure; lets hear those flames roar.
  6. What color was it at the right temp?
  7. The video that you added show one definite problem, and a second likely problem. You definitely have some kind of blockage in your gas system; most likely in the MIG tip, but we've seen these blockages come from as far away as the fuel hose (that is rare). The likely problem is that you also need to increase gas pressure. While you have the gas tubes and MIG tips out for cleaning, how about a photo, and description of part sizes? Once you resolve your immediate problems, you will be left with a design problem, unless we can address it at the same time. Look; you have built a nice pair of
  8. Only if you're serious about a first class burner. Second class can be pretty nice too. There is a whole wide range of burners, and burner kits for sale out there. How about a little more information on your desires and limits, so we can fine tune an answer that suits you.
  9. No; those burner are not working well outside the forge. You have weak heavily reducing flames in both. First, try closing the choke plates; this kind of burner has a sweet spot that is likely to be a lot narrower opening than you'd expect. How come such a thing? Moving the choke plate closer will actually increase swirl in the incoming air. The hole point of those reducers is to add swirl; not to act as some kind of "air scoop" For maximum benifit, you will probably also need to make some changes in your gas orifices. So, how about laying some more information on us, so we can help with
  10. You are probably aware that hot-work and lumber don't go well together. I have found that plastic base paint on the woodwork, can is that problem.
  11. I think that is a one (and sometimes a two) man operation; things happen. Patience is sometimes needed... I only know of two businesses that sell first class burners; other one is Chile Forge, and they only sell 1" size first class burners.
  12. If you tie two of those top bricks together, you can use a hole saw to drill perfect half holes into them. Afterward you can place the burner through the whole they form, and increase forge heat.
  13. Turn the gas pressure way up, and try again.
  14. Yes; the central opening. In appreciation for your practical concerns: There could be a simpler fix. One thing the soft copper MIG tip does easily is bend. If you find that your flame is off center, bend the tip, a little bit at a time, until it straightens out. As you pointed out, fixing the problem can leave you worse off then living with it. Hope this is a case of two wrongs canceling each other out
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