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About Mikey98118

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  1. I looked at the video; the dragon's breath looks like a lot, but how far down are the two burners turned?
  2. Silicon carbide is made of silicon and carbon. Carbon is not very insulating, and silicon is downright conductive; a poor choice.
  3. Gauges aren't hard to find; try eBay. Your burner's cross pipe is positioned in the right place to make the MIG tip change; I would suggest you do so.
  4. Will a propane cylinder work? Of course it well! Do you need that much forge? Probably not. You will pay and pay for fuel gas; the question is do you want to pay less or more for that fuel? Do you like hot work? Probably you do. How hot do you want that work to get, though? Twice the forge means twice the heat in your shop. So, what do you think; do you have real need of that larger forge? My first forge used a five gallon propane bottle. I built it slick, and put a very slick burner in it; I could rock hard in that forge for about eight hours on a five gallon cylinder of propane run through a 3/4" Mikey burner. Ron Reil had already built his little mini-forge, which I thought was too small. I now make 3/8" Mikey burners that could run his mini-forge for a whole weekend, with change left over for Monday morning. My propane cylinder forge is built and used all over the world. But Ron was more right than I was!!!!
  5. I am not thrilled with corderite kiln shelves; on the other hand 3/8" thick beats 5/8" thick; the thinnest high alumina shelf I can get in Seattle. Life has plenty of trade offs; this isn't a bad one. Rock on...
  6. That looks a little squished down; it it an oval forge? I didn't know they made one of them.
  7. The fact that the idiots asked for water column numbers in conjunction with a 0-30 propane regulator means that they need to have their long noses trimmed back; if they can't mind their own business, by it on line; they don't need your money.
  8. Yes, exactly; that is a very nice example.
  9. Dispenser Needles; a last look MIG contact tips come in several orifice sizes, as do hypodermic needles. Just as heavy wall capillary tube can be made to serve as proper gas jets in small burners by varying short lengths to match output velocities of different orifice diameters, so to can dispenser needles serve the same purpose by varying larger lengths of larger diameters to overcome tolerance changes in those orifices. Also, the longer lengths can be more easily interference-fit in place or bent in a bow to keep them in place, without need for silver brazing. Lengths and diameters will remain a matter of trial an error, because of tolerances; plus or minus .001" of an inch is a lot of difference when the orifice is .023" or less.
  10. BTW, I can't see any dragon'a breath in this photo; what I see is a forge that is wide open along one of its side, and looks pretty well heated up inspite of that error.
  11. Use a two gallon non-refillable Freon or helium cylinder; two 1" layers of ceramic fiber insulation; rigidize them run a thin finish coat of re refractory over them; Add the MIG tip changes to the Riel burner, or build a "T" burner, and enjoy a third more forge heat for half the fuel bill. Or, you can always do what you please instead (after all; it's not my kid).
  12. Frostsy is right. Close down the front opening; use a movable brick wall or drill out a small opening in a high alumina kiln shelf, and leave it able to be placed closer and further away from the forge opening, until you decide how close to leave it permanently. Next, stuff some ceramic fiber between the burner and the burner port, to seal off secondary air from being induced into the forge by the burner flame. Look to see if the exhaust flame turns blue; if not, leave it in place. If you get a blue exhaust flame, take away part of the fiber, bit by bit until it stops. After you have done all that, we can discuss heat regenerative coatings.
  13. Why do I go to such "extremes" of advice in how-to choices? The smaller the burner the narrower your part choices become, do to market forces. Saying you should have "chosen better" in your construction methods or parts, isn't helpful. besides, my old ma use to warn against sneering, and I'm too old now to have my face freeze that way
  14. Various weak battery operated rotary tools, which are worthless for other grinding and sanding work are perfect for use with miniature drills, when combined with collet chucks. Most rotary tools have the same thread on their shafts, which will match up with most miniature collet chucks, but there are no guarantees that yours will. Drill Master rotary tool (from Harbor Freight Tools and other sources) are an excellent low cost tool for cutting capillary tube and drilling with miniature drill bits, just because it is weak: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=rotary+tools Collet chucks: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-Brass-Drill-Chuck-Collet-Bits-0-5-3-2mm-4-3mm-Shank-For-Rotary-Tool/371753943239?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D2220072%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D43e81a640c7b40a290e4908844be458c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D191758029756 Note: Avoid miniature drill chucks other than the collet types; I have yet to try one that worked.
  15. Drilling small deep holes in copper EDM tubes are made of copper with tellurium in it (a “free machining grade” alloy), and half-hard brass EDM tubes are about as easy to drill as it gets. But most MIG contact tips are made of industrially pure copper, and are about as hard to drill deep holes into as it gets; it is famous for gumming up the drill bit, and/or digging to deeply into the bit’s cutting edges; resulting in seizing and snapping off drill bits; the smaller the bit the tougher the problem gets. There are several things you can do to alleviate the problem: (1) It is crucial to use a drop of milk (or Rapid Tap cutting fluid) now and again to ease the drilling action and keep the copper from swelling against the bit from heat gain. (2) Use “peck” drilling in place of long drilling periods; set your quill stop to move down only a few thousandths of an inch at a time). Keep cleaning the drill bit of burrs. Stop if you hear any sudden noise, clean the bit, and use more fluid. (3) Split point cobalt drill bits are better for drilling copper than standard single point drill bits. (4) Or, use a diamond coated flat jewelers file, under a magnifying glass to flatten out the angle of rake in a standard metal drilling bit’s leading edges to neutral, to combat the bit’s inclination to “grab” the leading edges, and snap off. (5) Use bright finished stool steel bits; not black oxide bits, to help keep the bit from binding in the hole. (6) Keep the speed slower and feed pressures higher than normally used in metal drilling. Finally, you are boring an existing hole out to a larger diameter, the less material yoy need to reduce the less likely you are to run into trouble; so spend a little more time purchasing the best match up in a MIG tip or EDM tube, instead of buying quick and working harder to match it up with a capillary tube. Also remember that the bit only has to match up within a few thousandths inch to the capillary tube, and the MIG tip can be finished a few more thousandths with torch tip cleaners.