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About Mikey98118

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    Seattle, WA

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  1. My first projects

    A MIG tip that wiggles before being seated by its shoulder jamming against the gas fitting's thread is a sure sign that you need to use some pipe goop to prevent it from leaking...
  2. Bladesmith Forge

    Excellent! Speak write up; we all appreciate seeing both sides of the coin Nothing is better than hearing feedback from owners! Let's hear some negative input to help balance the avalanche of rave reviews.
  3. Home made refractory

    Great work, Monkey Forge! What percentages in the mixture? I hope you'll write about your exploits in the Forges 101 thread so your post can continue to be easily accessed in the coming months.
  4. Length of propane tank forge

    Shorter generally works out better than longer.
  5. Burners 101

    Flame retention nozzles serve three important functions (A) By reducing the pressure in front of the mixing tube they help keep the flame from burning back into the mixing tube from the nozzle, as it acts as an ignition chamber for the flame. (B) By reducing the pressure behind the flame, it enables the surrounding air (or the slightly higher back pressure of the equipment’s internal “atmosphere” to push against the flame’s expansion pressure, creating a balance that helps keep the flame from being blown away from the burner. (C) It has been contended by some that the flame nozzle helps induce air into the mixing tube; possibly because its shape finishes creating a venturi on linear burners. I can’t argue with the reasoning, but I believe the flame is at least contributing to air induction; this is supposition on my part. But linear burners with an (impeller) fan-driven vortex greatly reduce mixing tube pressure without harm; I believe this is because they also support larger diameter flame nozzles, which further reduce pressure in the nozzle area; thus providing some support for the idea of flame induction. I don't mean this pause to interfere with the ongoing burner discussion; I'm just as interested in as others are.
  6. Forges 101

    Pipe or tube can be welded, braze welded, or silver brazed to the shell. Larry Zoeller uses conduit fittings to attach pipe mechanically to the shell.
  7. Forges 101

    Burner Ports Once you build a burner you'll want to install it in your forge or furnace, which brings us to burner ports. Some people just drill a hole in the steel shell and form a hole in the refractory, but this doesn't provide support for the burner or any way to fine-tune its aim, so most of us attach a short length of larger pipe or heavy wall tube to the outside of the shell, and use six thumb screws, in two rows of three screws each, to trap and aim the burner. Now let's discuss control of secondary air and cooling of the burner. Even single combustion wave burners can benefit from external cooling air if the burners penetrate extra thick insulating layers (more than 2") or are the burners are very small 1/4" or less because internal cooling from the cold incoming fuel gas could be overcome during long heats, under these conditions. Most burners have at least primary and secondary flame envelopes, so some builders deliberately leave their burner ports unsealed, because secondary air induction (now powered by the flame) is needed for complete combustion. Unfortunately, this nearly always leads to an overabundance of a good thing, because the flame becomes an even more powerful induction "motor" than a burner's gas stream makes. It takes energy to heat air, so extra secondary air becomes a drag on performance within the equipment; leading to as much as 20% heat reduction. Fortunately, we don't have an if/or choice to make. It is just as easy to control incoming air through the burner port as incoming air through the burner. Simply mount a washer brazed to a short thick tube, drilled and threaded for a thumb screw, on the burner; once the burner is installed, it can be slid up against the portal tube's end to seal the port against heating from chimney effects after shutdown, and slid closer or farther from the post for secondary air control during operation. Is this more work? Obviously, but you should expend the additional effort. Frosty came up with an excellent method of mounting his burners directly of brick or refractory surfaces; he threads a pipe nipple into a floor plate (?); a simple and effective solution.
  8. Length of propane tank forge

    Actually, the better move is to mount one end back on with hinges and a latch; this allows you to place the occasional bulky shape in the forge, and then easily remove it without damage to the forge interior; it also porvidesgenerous access to the forge for repairs.
  9. Sourcing Burner Components in Canada

    Great suggestions! Wouldn't it be dandy if one of you guys started a new thread on where to find stuff outside of the U.S? Once people go through the bother to find where to find something, there would be a thread that others could read. Good chance that such a useful bit of information would become a sticky...
  10. Burners 101

    All the guys came up with good advice to try. I would only add to my first advice, that you want to emplyTweeco "T" series tips, or one of the knock-off series of tips that are tapered and 1-1/2" long. Why? Becuase this will not only give better gas flow, which you may need from a .030" tip but will allow you to move the gas assembly back, so you can try closing the choke plate more. And again, I think your burner only needs tweaking; not any structural change. We see builders of hot burners ringing their hands during fine-tuning the flame all the time; it's trying to the novice, but your very problems are encouraging signs to us old hands.
  11. Hex Forge - idea for your review

    Forget the complicated floor. Use K26 highly insulating and tough firebricks from eBay; they are cheap, and cost very little for shipping because they are super light.
  12. Bladesmith Forge

    One is a little too small and the other is WAY to large. Free used non-refillable Freon and helium cylinders or half mufflers from garages are all great for small forges, while used propane cylinders are the standard large forge all over the world.
  13. My first projects

    Sodium silicate as rigidizer? NO; a thousand times no! Heck no to the max!!! Sodium silicate is only employed on a secondary or tertiary (outer) layers of insulation; it melts at 1900 F; it is heavy, expensive, and caustic. Use colloidal silica (fumed silica in water); it is cheap; use rated for 2300 F; light; and can be ordered from eBay, and ship for very little cost. Colloidal silica is also easy to spritz on ceramic fiber. Sodium silica became popular for gluing Perlite together to create lightweight sigid outside tertiary insulation layers
  14. Burners 101

    To begin with, it is NOT an epic fail; not even kind of poor. You have the fairly rare problem of having built a too hot burner; we simply need to gentle it down some You did a lot of things right and a couple of things not as good as you could. What you haven't done is a single thing wrong. To begin with, I have been suggesting 2"x3/4" reducer fittings on 3/4" linear burners for about 18 years now. You can look up the first time I made that recommendation on a MIG tip upgrade to a Ron Reil burner on his pages. However, don't bother changing that on your burner 'cause you are actually inducing too much air already. What to do now? I have also recommended trying out both .023" MIG tips and .030" tips on 3/4" burners for almost that long; some burners do best with the smaller tip and others need the larger one. Your burner needs an .030" tip at a minimum. I don't like reducers as flame nozzles because they can't be tuned to find just the right amount of overhang for a given burner. However, let's see how yours works with the right MIG tip before we change anything else. Congratulations in advance on a fine burner build. So why do I think your burner has turned out to be such a wild child? You used three ribs to connect your gas assembly to the reducer, and you also aimed them like fins, instead of using a flat bar "U" shaped saddle; this arrangement is creating spin in the incoming air as it enters the reducer, rather than after it enters the reducer. Good job so far!
  15. Burners 101

    I generally prefer fast hard flames out of a burner, But Frosty's "T" burners are an exception to this; with the proper flame nozzle I have seen one of them provide a perfectly hot soft flame. On a practical level, "T" burners provide an excellent flame for positioning top-down on top and mounted at the top of a box forge, where their soft flames can completely combust before impinging on the work.