Mikey98118

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About Mikey98118

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  1. Yes, or your can simply heat up the whole forge; it works either way.
  2. You are correct, if they are white metals, or aluminum alloys. Probably, brass would be a problem. A heat treat oven would probably work well enough.
  3. A camp fire is supposed to give a good deal lower heat than possible, by using a large slow flame; this is the exact opposite of what is needed in a forge, If you could get the flame heat up enough to do much work with this burner, then its metal parts would last fast. It is hard to arrive at a desired designation by starting out in the wrong direction. The sooner you give up and start again with some other design the sooner you can cut your losses. Sorry, but it's time for someone to give you an honest "NO."
  4. Watched your flame video; it reminded me of one of my favorite sayings, on a very bad health day. "I need to jack up my wig and run a whole new me under it."
  5. Take the burner out of the forge, and learn to tune it in the open. When you don't know how to solve a problem, simplify it FIRST.
  6. It takes a lot of looking to find anything new at a reasonable price. If you don't look, we can't find...
  7. Us oldsters should look up from daily concerns, and point out the magic when we see it
  8. It was just the logical next step. The magic moment of discovery was and remains yours. Whether you logically lay out the steps for others to follow, or not, is a separate thing. Nothing can change a timeless moment; no thief can steal it; it can't be taxed to death; keep it bright in your memory, and let other such moments join it
  9. Ditto to what Frosty said. Zircon bricks...YUMMY!!!
  10. Speaking for the first photo; it shows a very good flame. Your methods seem sound. I would suggest the further step of painting the refractory with one of the several re-emissive coatings (Plistix would be my first choice) you can buy from Glenn.
  11. Expert opinions are best provided by experts. Mostly, what the Web is filled with is sales pitches.
  12. I love to here about new refractory products, but I need some kind of thread to follow...
  13. The photos show a much better build than your description sounded like. The "floor bricks" might be a good idea to drop. Most hard clay bricks are heat sinks. Old style soft bricks rapidly turn into rubble at forge heats. Morgan K26 bricks (coated), a high alumina kiln shelf, or Kast-0-lite 30 refractory all make adequate floors.
  14. Better, but you still have far to go. After shortening the MIG tip, did you use a set of Torch tip cleaners, to clean all burrs from the Tip orifice? What size orifice does the MIG tip have? Because the pipe reducer you are using looks out of axial alignment, you may need to use this burner without a flame retention nozzle; in that case, you will need to finish tuning the burner with it mounted in the heating equipment. How do I know this so? It looks out of alignment; this view is backed up by the flame, which is being forced out of alignment as a result. Look into each question, one at a time; you'll get there.
  15. Ideally, about 1/2" hard refractory thick on the floor. The Plistix well do as much as the Kast-O-lite as a heat cheild, wall the hard refractory well do much to support the layer of Plistix. You want to use these materials together to get the most use from them both.