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Mikey98118

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About Mikey98118

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  1. Fine tuning the forge Judging and fine-tuning burner performance completely can only be done while running it in its intended equipment, and only after finish coatings and a front baffle plate or brick wall for an adjustable exhaust opening is added, along with an adjustable secondary air choke being installed on the burner port. These additions are needed in order to raise internal temperatures high enough to better judge flame performance. Sounds backward, doesn't it? But the thing is that the best evaluation only comes in equipment that has been turned into a “radiant oven.” The burner is merely an "engkne" of the forge; if performance only revolved around the burner, most of what we've learned about constructing heating equipment would be "gilding the lily"; it’s not. Clear back while still writing Gas Burners, I raised the temperatures in a five-gallon forge from light orange to lemon yellow, merely by painting its refractory with high-emissive coating it from from the stuff that came out of the jar to colloidal grade particles, by simple water separation. I A few weeks later lemon yellow jumped up to yellow white by stopping all secondary air from entering the burner port; this has been further refined for other burner designs by the addition of a variable secondary air choke on the burner port. It has been stated that good burner performance requires a delicate dance of several factors; ditto for the equipment it heats. Variable baffle walls came afterward, with a change from yellow-white, to straight white heat, all with the same burner design, The less burner you have "under the hood" the more these improvements will do for you.
  2. Rigidizer is of small value on ceramic board, but a good surface coating has a of a lot of value. Plistex is good the board and plenty cheap.
  3. Along the same line, propylene can be purchased in refillable cylinders from welding supply stores for about one-third more than propane in urban areas, and has bout one-third more heat; no, this doesn't equal out, because, this allows the wise to turn burners down lower, reducing the amount of heat wasted out of the exhaust, while depositing more heat on internal equipment surfaces.
  4. The last time I had teachers, I was a fifty year old with an attitude; they were both older women, whom I have nothing but utter respect for.
  5. The site makes a good start. Mostly, imagination is the fastest tool to advance knowledge in flow dynamics, while smoke tests is the surest tool; especially for newbies. Frosty has some knwoledge about it, if we can coax him to go into his methods one more time, for the experimenters among us?
  6. I expect that they are pretty close to the same overall length; can I make them shorter than yours if a work real hard too? Why would I care? If, for what ever reason he wishes to use a Mikey burner, the smart fix is for him to stick them in a side wall near the top, so that it can pass over the work, shorten the height of the forge, and increase its width. It isn't always a question of of "either/ =or" sometimes the bottom line is How we go about having our druthers And about trying to help others to achieve theirs, even if it "ain't the way we would do it."
  7. That is an all too common problem
  8. I agree everything Frosty stated, and will add that his "T" burner would be my first choice in a box forge; not a Mikey burner.
  9. This burner will only heat up more from the chimney effect, by forcing all the hot gases to exit via the burner. Also, this kind of burner probably needs some secondary air to burn completely; maybe not, but probably yes.
  10. #304 versus #316 stainless steel The two most commonly available stainless-steel alloys are #304 and #316. Often you can take your pick between the two in a desired shape and sized part; when you have the choice, #304 parts usually come with polished surfaces, and are a little easier to drill and tap. #316 usually comes with a dull finish and is harder to drill and tap then the #304 alloy, but #16 stainless has 2% Molybdenum in it, and #304 doesn’t: that addition makes the alloy a little harder to work with, but greatly increases its resistant to high heat oxidation. The one part in a burner that benefits from molybdenum is the flame retention nozzle.
  11. For that price you can buy a Chili forge. Hydraulic presses indicates a desire to forge fast. So, you will probably want a very fast heating forge: that means Chile.
  12. Silver brazing fluxes are designed to work at much lower temperatures than hard brazing fluxes; there are even temperature ranges meant for different filler alloys; some are activated at lower temperatures than others. Black silver braze flux is meant for a higher range than most; almost.
  13. Miniature adjustable three-jaw chucks versus collets on rotary tools Mostly, which one is the best choice on a rotary tool depends on its quality. A keyed chuck needs to be pretty high quality to successfully spin an accessory, or drill bit, at high speed. So, what about the key-less chucks (three jaw hand tightened) for rotary tools sold on line and through jewelers supply stores? I bought three of these cheap imports, before giving up; they all froze, and broke during their first attempted use. However, Foredom makes an American manufactured model, which works; but not as smoothly as a collet. Why not? It is machined to about .0001" (one thousandths of an inch) tolerance, and and extends well beyond the the motor shaft. Smooth performance in this instance would probably require .0002" (two ten-thousandths of an inch). Such quality would price them out of the market.
  14. It's never too late...
  15. As far as I could follow the information (twenty years back), the Aussies started playing around with homemade burners before the founding of the Net. Others, including Frosty have been at it over thirty years. I've been at it for twenty years. The result is lots of "better burner" designs. BUT, most forge manufacturers are still using grand pappy's burners; these are the burners that are so very much in need of changing out.
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