Mikey98118

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About Mikey98118

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  1. Once again, this burner brings up the growing problem of poor quality threaded pipe fittings; I don't know where the answer lies, but I think we need to start looking for one.
  2. So, you were serious about some of these old forge designs being reworked into something worthwhile? Come to think of it, that is a reasonable possibility. What is wrong with most of them is too many minus factors; a change of burners would probably turn most of them around. Better refractories would be a big help too...
  3. How did we get from there's no such thing as the perfect burner, or forge, to there's no such thing as a bad burner, or of forge
  4. Well, no single burner, or forge, is best for all purposes. Choice is good.
  5. The stepped nozzle on a 3/4" Mikey burner is made from 1-1/4" schedule #40 stainless steel pipe, which fits easily enough into the 1" schedule #40 black pipe, which is used as a spacer ring between it and the 3/4" schedule #40 black pipe mixing tube. Stainless steel pipe is thicker and much cheaper than the nearest available stainless steel tubing, and makes an easier fit to the other parts. I would suggest you just stick this burner into your forge as is, rather than trying to cut the nozzle shorter; it isn't worth further effort to cut such a short term temporary part. It is temporary because flame nozzles in heating equipment must be considered consumables, and short term because it is mild steel, which will oxidize away quite rapidly in a forge. Stainless steel pipe can be ordered cut to size from onlinmetals.com, which is where and how I buy mine these days, since Seattle is no longer the steel center it was forty years ago. Simply down load a free pirated copy of Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, & Kilns. Then you can pick up this kind of information the easy way; there is a lot more things you need to know in it, then just how to build Mikey burners.
  6. The last photo is getting close; try shortening the amount of overhang on the flame nozzle.
  7. Your problem may turn out to be something else, but until your choke allows air flow to become predictable, we cannot get to any other cause.
  8. Hey, blues: First, that is a strong flame; not a weak one. Many guys would use such a flame in a forge, and never look back, but it needs work. Go back three or four pages and you will find a similar flame, that just needed a little adjustment in the burner to run properly. I would begin by reversing the direction that the choke opens from. It needs to open up from the rear of the burner. Having English as a second language isn't that much of a handicap. The biggest hurdle in dealing with metal work is understanding the technical terms; that places you in the middle of the class curve, along with most Americans today, because they are not taught anything about those terms unless they grow up in a trade. You at least are not surprised or dismayed by your language difficulties. Most of my fellows are surprised, and quite frustrated with theirs. I don't mean having to deal with concepts like square of the distance, or terms like perpendicular, but obvious things like I.D. (inside diameter), or the names of different types of thread. Things that many guys assume are beneath them. But anyone who takes that tack will run aground when trying to deal with sales clerks at a welding supply, or hardware store. The sum of the area of all three air openings was what the quote was about. Now please do me a favor and forget all about that figure; it is misleading, because it is beside the point. If you follow my directions on ANY of my burner designs, you will far exceed the figure in question. I brought it up a long time ago, with the intention of laying it to rest, as a consideration. What is happening now is just the opposite of what I intended!!! Both the width and length of air openings on a Mikey burner are figured to get the best possible flame characteristics from a given burner size; that goes far beyond a minimum area in the air openings; it's all about fast flow and sufficient swirl of incoming air. So, here is Mikey's rule of thumb for burner design: Forget minimums; go for maximums. Its a lot easier to rein in a wild running burner, then to perk up a weak one.
  9. Unfortunately, the only source of Mikey burners is Chile Forge; they started with the 1" burner size to run their oval forges, and did originally intended to build other burner sizes too. But I think they got sidetracked by forge sales, and never did get around to building the other burners. This particular burner series is much better suited to mass production than to single builds, since the air openings can be cut and beveled by high pressure water jet. After the book came out, prices on rotary tools and their accessories plummeted, making them the obvious choice for individuals to cut out air openings and do the beveling with, but since that fact isn't in the original text, it tends to get lost in the shuffle, making the burner much harder to construct. Also I haven't used pipe fittings to construct these burners in years. Tubing is harder to obtain at the beginning of burner construction, but ends up needing far less work overall. For instance, seven set screws for the flame nozzle changes to a single screw, when using tube. The art students I wrote the book for, can now choose between several easier to build burners that were not available them. Everything changes over time.
  10. It isn't surprising that no matter how much we know, there is always more to learn. What is surprising is that becoming expert at something can become a trap. Add a dollop of willfulness about what we "know", and the trap springs shut! What is known about burners should be held in an open palm, for all to see, and think about. I learn other people's truths here; they allow me to progress in directions I would never explore alone.
  11. "T" burners are Frosty's design, and lots of people are building them, including the smaller sizes. So I will lay back and let Frosty and the gang comment on how to reconfigure and adjust this very worthwhile burner style. I have been waiting to see some lively discussions on where to find parts for smaller "T" burners, and possible trade-offs to build 1/2" and 3/8" burner sizes, on this thread. And don't forget that "T" burners have there own thread, if you can't find what you need here. Still, design issues go right to the heart of what this thread is for.
  12. What constitute "easy to build" is different on miniature burners. the primary concern in larger burners is developing a really hot flame; tuning is a minor detail.The major problem with building a 3/8" or smaller burner, is that, starting at 1/2" sizes and increasingly as the sizes reduce, burners become touchier about construction details and tuning--every burner design does--while greater flame heat is almost a given. In miniature burners, an easy to construct design must include a large choice of key parts to choose from, and the maximum possible parts do be tuned. A tube burner gives the maximum amount of parts control, but It is not an easy design to construct. But wait; tuning is a pain in the six, so why would we want to complicate it further? Because not being able to fine tune a miniature burner, often means it won't run at all. After all the trouble put into its construction, a pain in the six beats out a totally busted six, every time! Linear burners are the easiest design for building in miniature sizes, because what is added to the mixing tube or pipe is only a reducer fitting, which probably has the largest amount of part choices of any pipe fitting; it is also the easiest fitting to make changes in by grinding. Linear is the smoothest burning turbulent burner design in the first place, and can now be made with all the controls of a tube burner. Choke control is usually absent, or at best crude on old linear burners. The ability to move the gas jet's distance to the mixing tube orifice has been absent in the past. A gas tube that is threaded into a saddle mounted on the reducer, allows both improvements, and with very fine tuning of them. A drilled saddle on a reducer fitting can be mounted so that the gas tube and jet, are easily positioned axially true at the same time.
  13. What is a 1/8” IP thread? 1/8” IP or IPS (iron pipe, or iron pipe standard) thread dies and taps are used to make lamp rod thread (1/8-27) on the outside of 1/8” pipe (designated size; actual outside diameter of 1/8” pipe is .405”). This is parallel thread, and is not to be confused with the tapered 1/8” NPT (national pipe thread). Tapered thread is used on the ends of pipe nipples to mount your gas tight fitting or needle valve to. Be sure to use an "S" letter drill bit; not an "R" bit, which is recommended for tapered pipe thread; not for parallel lamp thread.
  14. Oil has a lot more stored energy per given volume than propane; a fact that has caused many a guy to build an oil fired casting furnace. Others have been entranced by the lure of 'free' used motor and vegetable oil. But a higher energy fuel doesn't translate to higher flame temperatures; just giant carbon loaded flames shooting out of the furnace, in a barely controlled fashion. And using free oil has turned out to be like free fire wood; a great sounding idea that doesn't work out all that great in the end. Bottom line: there's still no free lunch.
  15. Chapter 2 is meant to be a resource, where the reader can go to get back up information before deciding what fittings or hose to use, or why the burners are built the way they are; not something to be waded through with dogged determination There are people selling good burners: Chile Forge builds Mikey burners, but only in one size. Hybrid Burners.com sells very good burners in a variety of sizes. Larry Zoeller Forge sells his "Z" burners, and also kits for them; they have a good reputation. There are probably others, but I don't know who they are. I do know there are lots of people seller bad burners out there. Yes, that is sadly true. All of the well known commercial forge brands refuse to update their technology; it's enough to make a guy think they're just in it for the money...the only one of them with high customer satisfaction is Diamondback. I figure the others are trusting in the general ignorance of their customer base to get by. With companies like Chili Forge coming on line, I think their number well be up pretty soon.