Mikey98118

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About Mikey98118

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  1. I have not encountered any of these problems. But I also never encountered cracking in high alumina kiln shelves after long storage. It occurs to me that I have simply been blessed in where I buy my materials; Seattle Pottery Supply. On the other hand, zirconium silicate based refractory over Morgan's K26 insulating firebricks are what I plan to use for forge floors from now on, anyway. I looked for something superior to high alumina kiln shelves for the last eighteen years; I think this is it.
  2. I think you would still end up with a better forge, by finishing the one you started.
  3. When this much time passes without an update, it usually means that the builder has run into a snag, or is disappointed in his/her result. But, we can't help you, if you won't get back to us.
  4. I couldn't remember where I originally saw the data, but ran across it again on another site: http://www.traditionaloven.com/building/refractory/k26-ifb/convert-cu-ft-lite-brick-k26-to-pound-lb-of-lite-brick-k26.html I have also hefted my bricks, and they are very lite. SWMBO has never allowed a scale in our home, so that's the best I can do
  5. Morgan'S 26oo F insulating brick is available in small quantities on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X2600+insulating+bricks.TRS0&_nkw=2600+insulating+bricks&_sacat=0
  6. In the shipyards, we used water cooled torches for straightening deck and haul plate through shrinkage.
  7. You're right. My apologies to both Square Nail and blacksmith-450 for that completely senior moment
  8. If you can still find it, burn ointment that is based on tannic acid, works like a miracle cure.
  9. Frosty, You didn't overlook these bricks. Morgan has just recently come up with a completely unique 2600 insulating brick, that is only 40 pounds per cubic foot; it is at least as insulating as the 2300 insulating foam clay bricks, but is tough enough to withstand thermal cycling. Next week I will be using the zirconium silicate and a 5% binder coating on the brick, using both Veegum & and bentonite, to see how well it works as a flame coating. I expect that placing directly on one side of the brick; both materials should be synergistic in increasing thermal and mechanical strength. Yes, I've already bought the brick; it's good stuff
  10. Most of the attractive nuisance building schemes where being warned against on home casting news groups eighteen years ago; yet a fresh generation of self proclaimed 'innovators' are still featuring them on YouTube. Ain't ignorance such bliss?
  11. But you will be; welcome to the hot seat; none of us ever intended to end up here, but we're always glad to see a fellow traveler
  12. Morgan brand 2600 reasonably tough and highly insulating firebricks can be coated with zirconium silicate and 5% bentonite clay; this completely changes everything. Morgan 2600 bricks are avalable on eBay, in a variety of thicknesses, down to 1/2"; so it's not too late to keep you 2300 bricks from being ruined. With a little added work you can have your cake, and eat it too.
  13. Zirconium silicate (with 5% bentonite clay as binder) will beat any brand of furnace cement all hollow, and can be found, for a lot less money, at most potter's supply stores. Move the hand torch--without the tube-- close to the burner opening, These modifications will allow your son to pound on some steel for a short while, before your present refractory fails. The Burners 101, and Forges 101 threads will give allow the direction needed to make good decisions on what kind of burner and forge you want to build for him. DO NOT neglect to read up on "T" burners. Good luck helping your boy. Spoiler: Morgan brand 2600 F highly insulating and reasonably tough fire bricks ( cheap from eBay) can be hardened against flame impingement with the coating above, and then cemented together. Any worn out hole saw (or a carbide encrusted hole saw from Harbor Freight Tools), makes a good fast built forge. Choosing a simple 1/2" "T" will set you up best for mounting the burner on a small brick forge. " burner will go vary well in such a forge
  14. Square Mail, Thanks for including building instructions. I look forward to lots of smiths choosing to build your version of Mongo burners. As I never felt that the original Mongo burners were worth looking into, the joke is on me
  15. I don't foresee a lot of call for them, or much of anything else (other than observatory equipment) at such a high altitude The Denver area has a large enough population that high altitude naturally aspirated burners matter there. I would suppose, that burners for ridiculously high altitude could be covered with fan- blown models; the problem of lower heat output could be overcome with polypropylene fuel?