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I Forge Iron


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  1. On the plus side, that same rigidizer will do a lot to support the layer of Plistix smeared over the ceramic wool insulation. Afterward it will continue to lengthen the working lifetime of the insulation, against heat fatigue.
  2. As to whether stainless steel braided armor hose will help with heating problems; not much. Critter protection; yes. Protection against being cut by doors slamming closed on it; yes. Limited protection against hot parts being dropped on it; yes.
  3. The thing is; in our thirties we think we're just hitting our peak. In our forties we think maybe we should behave just a little. In our fifties, we don't wanna think about it anymore. In our sixties, the doctors tell us "you should have behaved yourself a whole lot more." In our seventies we are asking were did everybody go? In our eighties nearly all of us have joined the rest. So, by the time must of us are paying attention, we've been dead for quite a while
  4. In fact the rigidizer does help a lot with this concern. What happens with ceramic fiber wool insulation is that, once it heats up to incandescence, the fiber strands start to break here and there, becoming air born; it is not good to breath in crystalized fibers. The rigidizer locks all those loose strands together, greatly reducing airborn fiber production. But a finishing coat seals those fibers in--period. So, the danger is on a sliding scale, depending on all these factors. However, us old guys have a very different perspective on risks than you youngsters do
  5. A third advantage about all the spherical voids that those silica bubbles leave behind in cast refractory, is that they provide innumerable stopping points for cracks. Before silica bubbles and alumina bubbles started being included in refractory, fractures were a big problem in forges, because of the fast heating and cooling cycles; this is not true of glass or ceramic furnaces. And no longer a problem with Kast-O-lite 30, and other cast refractory that have the voids built in
  6. Yup Most of us here on IFI suggest Kast-O-lite 30 or a high alumina kiln shelf for the forge floor; either one will end up about 1/2" thick, and serve the purpose. The Kastolite provides better insulation than a kiln shelf. The kiln shelf provides a smooth flat surface to rest any internal baffle wall on; either one needs Plistix 900, or one of the other finish coatings to help reflect heat back into the forge interior from internal surfaces. You also want to use Plistix to cover the rest of the internal surfaces. Goods is correct; you don't want to lose any more internal height in that forge, or atmospheric circulation will suffer. Lose the brick.
  7. Just remember that, once you plugged those two holes directly in the flame path, the flames now will revolve around the inside of the forge, and corkscrew their way out of one or both ends of the forge; this is good. However, you must remember to leave some room for exhuast gases to exit out at least one end of your forge. This is why we recommend that people use firebricks to create baffle walls about one inch away from the opening. I also recomend using Plistix 900 to create a flame face on the forge's inner surfaces. It pays for itself in increased efficiency, while increasing the life of the ceramic wool insulation; and win win kind of deal No, it isn't necessary to do every little improvement right away; but, keep them in mind.
  8. Actually, I think they should upgrade their forge design, and sell them in the $400 to $500 range. That is where the market is short of good choices. I only know of one forge in that price range, that is even acceptable.
  9. The ad is from TrueGether. And Mister Volcano only started selling through Amazon.com in recent months; they never were an exclusive source.
  10. Sorry, Lee. I did not pay attention. What I did was into Mister Volcano in the Google search engine, and the site that popped up was different; but they do seem to still be selling the two burner forges for $135.
  11. Oh, now he's getting pretty salty with the Frosty
  12. Good morning Frosty. I posted to you earlier, but must have forget to hit send. Anyway, have you looked at Ron Riel's web pages lately? It will put a smile in your day. Now, if only the rest of us could get our ducks in a row
  13. I assume this question is for me. Any firebrick will do. You don't need insulating firebrick for internal baffle walls, anymore than with external baffle walls. As to red brick; I don't know of any red firebrick.
  14. Morning Frosty. Speaking of time, I looked up Ron Reil's web pages yesterday, for the first time in years. What a change! In a mere twenty -five years (where do they go?) he has transitioned from a very sick fifty something, into a keen and happy old man. You should have a look; it will make you smile. Now, if we could just get our own ducks in a row...
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