Mikey98118

Members
  • Content Count

    4,041
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Mikey98118

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Seattle, WA

Recent Profile Visitors

7,918 profile views
  1. Gas system maintenance Threaded parts seldom seal gas tight; especially when exposed to full cylinder pressures, in the case of most cylinder-mount propane torches. The common fix is to use gas rated Teflon tape, but such tape is meant for relatively low pressures encountered in household natural gas lines. So, Teflon tape is not likely to work well on lines without a pressure regulator installed. Even then, they must be turned in the right direction to avoid unraveling during installation, and the tape must be kept away from the last two pipe threads to avoid Teflon shreds from migrating into the gas line; inevitably plugging up the gas jet. A surer method is to apply gas rated gasket sealant on the threads of the male connection (kept away from the last two threads on the fitting’s end). If you disassemble the fitting later, be sure to thoroughly clean all traces of the sealant from threads first thing, lest some end up inside the gas line. You can also employ gas rated thread sealant (AKA Thread-locker). Always clean the gas system before assembly: Teflon shreds are not the only junk that can enter your gas system. Burrs from cutting, grinding, sanding and threading operations must be thoroughly cleaned from the work pieces, and all lines and hoses cleaned out with compressed air, to avoid debris from accumulating in the small gas orifice of a burner. Debris could have collected in the fuel hose from the gas cylinder, if you rent cylinders from an exchange system, from junk in the hose, if you leave it off for a long time. Insects and spiders are attracted to fuel hoses, because of their stench of fuel vapor. Propane can leave a buildup of tar and wax in a burner's gas orifices; especially from really poor quality fuel. The wrong kind of hose fuel will rot out over time; only use propane rated hose. Pressure test the gas system before use: Use liquid detergent in water to pressure test all joints on any gas assembly, starting at the fuel cylinder, and checking every joint including those in the burner. Some burner designs can tolerate minor leaks in the gas jet parts, by drawing them into the mixing tube along with incoming air; other designs will backfire from the smallest gas leak. Caution: Normally the gas pressure within a burner is a little less than line pressure, due to its open gas orifice. But a plugged orifice will allow full line pressure to accumulate in all parts; without a pressure regulator (such as with cylinder mount torches) that will reach full fuel cylinder pressure; this can be well over 150 PSI. The very small orifice sizes used in small air/fuel torches are given to clogging from impurities found in propane fuel. Keep a set of torch tip cleaners on hand to clean out clogged gas orifices immediately.
  2. The man stated that he had cleaned out "all lines." Furthermore that this is a recent problem. Taking him at his word, burrs in the jet orifice would be out. Add to this that the cutting off of flow is both severe and discontinuous, and debris in the lines is a reasonable guess. Debris could have collected in the fuel hose. from the gas cylinder, if he uses an exchange system, from rusting from an old enough cylinder, from junk in the hose, if he left it off for a long time. Then we come to imported junk regulators that may never have been cleaned and inspected...he could even have a buildup of tar and wax in his burner's gas orifices from really poor quality fuel. The wrong kind of hose will rot out over time. Very old hose finally starts disintegrating. The wrong kind of plumbing tape, or tape that isn't wrapped properly will shed threads into the gas system. Does my thinking still seem to you? Cause I think the odds are with me.
  3. First, deliberately reduce gas pressure, just to see what happens. The video indicates debris coming through the gas jets, in my mind.
  4. I would be more interested in these nozzles used in other burners, such as "T" in 3/4" sizes; the reason being that mixture flow speeds of various burner designs vary widely.
  5. #304 versus #316 stainless steel The two most commonly available stainless steel alloys are #304 and #316. Often you can take your pick between the two in a desired shape and sized part; when you have the choice, #304 parts usually come with polished surfaces, and are a little easier to drill and tap. #316 usually come with a dull finish and is harder to drill and thread then the #304 alloy, but #16 stainless has 2% Molybdenum in it, and #304 doesn’t: that addition makes the alloy a little harder to work with, but greatly increases its resistant to high heat oxidation. The one part in a burner that benefits from molybdenum is the flame retention nozzle.
  6. AngryDaddyBird, I'm glad to see this build posted here again, and would like to see the burner discussed in Burners 101, as it is one of the few commercial burners that interests me
  7. Do you mean Seattle {Pottery Supply?
  8. There are permanent threads on construction of various burners. All you have to do is read them.
  9. If you want an answer, you'll need to flesh out your question quite a bit more.
  10. That is one of those personal preference decision; there is no cut and dried answer.
  11. That is generally not the best idea, because most burners need a LITTLE secondary air, to burn their fuel completely. There are various ways to limit an over abundance of secondary air, but no convenient way to make up a dearth of it.
  12. Do they still have warm glass classes?
  13. Yes, the burner spacing, and planned tank length, look good. The last video shows both burners running in the ball part, but not running the same. The furthest flame from view might be a little bit reducing; or it might not. Neutral is burner range--not an exact point on that range. The two burners seem to have landed at each end of that range. What to do? "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Finish building the forge, and then look for "dragons breath"; if there is no exhaust flame, without simply turning the gas pressure way up high, then "no harm, no foul." Let the kid wave hi in the next video. We're all curious
  14. Try just running one of those burners, or cut them way back, for a tart. Then start including more insulating hard refractory between the inside of those reducers that you use for burner portals, and the flame.