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  1. So I've been meaning to build a forge for a long time. Around ten years. I finally decided to just do it. I'm trying not to spend too much money, but I have an advantage of having a lot of junk to work with. Total I've spent so far is around $10 on a couple 1/8th pipe fittings I didn't have. Those could probably be optimized, but I went with what I could find at local stores on a Saturday. So what I've got so far is the preliminary forge blower, and the skeleton of the main forge body. The blower is made from a 1" ID x 10" piece of pipe that I found in the junk pile. I flared the ends to make a venturi. This was done with an oxy/propane torch and an old clapped out anvil horn. Then I cut some holes in the back flare, with a plasma cutter, to accommodate some 1/8th" fittings for the propane. A small hole was drilled into a coupler and pointed down the pipe. I'm not sure at the moment if the coupler is blocking too much airflow, But all I had access to the time was 2" nipples so a coupler was necessary. But anyway, these fittings are connected to and old oxy/acetylene torch hose and regulator I had laying around, and plumbed to a propane tank. I plan to solder the fittings in place so they don't move, but only after I'm happy with it. The main forge body I built out of an old air tank that has been condemned. It's not suitable as a pressure vessel anymore. I shortened it and am going to use the end cap as a door that swings up. I have an opening cut out so a hole of about 4 1/2" x 2" is open when the door is shut. I'm going to be lining it with refectory wool, and then covering with KAST-O-LITE 30 LI G PLUS, and then coating with a ceramic refectory coating. The entrance will have a firebrick at the base. I'd love to hear some feedback and suggested improvements.
  2. I just got my Toauto 12 KG forge today, Commercial links removed and I have a two main questions It came with a bit of cotton-like material on the underside of the lid, and it is completely blocking the exhaust hole in the top. Is this just shipping protection, or is it supposed to be here? Should I do seasoning of the crucible or the mold to make them last longer or anything? If this has already been answered, sorry. I am a bit new here. Thanks for your help in advance!
  3. Hello everyone, this is my first post on I Forge Iron! Thank you for all the hard work you do both maintaining the site, and responding to questions. It's a relief to a newbie like me to be able to get answers from pros who've been there, rather than guesswork. My question is, are there any gas forges that you would recommend? I don't have any welding experience yet, so I can't make one. I was looking at the Whisper Momma but before I took the plunge, I wanted your input on if there is something better out there, or more suiting, if you're willing. My main focus in blacksmithing will be tool smithing, and general functional blacksmithing rather than artistry/sculpture. Also, I will probably do architectural/artistry work for practice and gifting, but not for public use. What I'd like from a gas forge will probably seem like I'm asking for the moon, but here goes. I'd like a forge that has a clamshell design (not necessary, but seemingly helpful for larger work), or at least a fairly spacious interior that allows for a 7+ inch width, 3+ in height, 5+ in. depth. Basically, enough for small plates (i.e. for coal shovel, smithin' magician), general tools (hammer, tongs) etc. I'd like for the forge to be of a venturi type. I will be working without electricity, so a blown forge and natural gas is a no go. A forge that has enough heat for forgewelding, specifically, hot enough for chain links, basket welds, etc. One that is also safe, reliable, and gas efficient. While not necessary, one that is easy to repair would also be helpful for me. Also, while these don't have to do with picking a forge, they kind of are related safety wise. About how long does it take to cool off once it's shut down? I figured checking hoses, making sure there aren't any leaks, don't tip the propane, stabilize and keep the forge on inflammable materials are all essential practices, but are there any other safety concerns for a gas forge that I should know about? Any particular size of propane tank that you would recommend, and if it isn't too invasive, the typical cost I'd be looking at? I read a couple articles on iforge, about protecting the refractory with stainless steel or kiln shelving. Are there other methods of protecting the refractory from flux, but can still take the heat? Thanks again for your help and your interest, I appreciate it.
  4. Hi, I'm looking to build a 72 inch vertical forge with minimal volume. Does anyone have any advice on design? My basic plan is to use a steel pipe (8 inch diameter) lined with 2 inches of Kaowool. This will provide a 4 inch diameter mouth that runs the length of the pipe, which will give me enough room to hang longer pieces for a heat treat soak. I'm not looking for forging heat, but definitely need to get thicker steel to critical temperature for heat treat. I'm thinking about using a 3-burner system, evenly spaced along the length of the pipe to try to keep my heat even but I'm concerned that I'll end up with nasty hot spots around the burners. Is there a way to even out the heat better? Is 2 inches of Kaowool enough to provide efficient operation? Any and all advice is welcome! Thanks!
  5. I'm new to blacksmithing, and I bought this forge link removed from Amazon for cheap because of that. I have it setup on just a standard 15lb propane tank that you would use for grilling. For smaller projects, it has worked great, I can get my material heated up fairly quickly, and at a temperature I feel is good for working and moving metal. With smaller pieces, such as an old file, rebar, or an old punch, I am able to get it heated up to a nice bright orange when set around 10psi. I would estimate around 2,000-2,200 degrees. However, I discovered some old leaf spring steel in an old shop last week, and decided to try forging a broken back seax knife with it. I can't seem to get my forge to heat it up above 1,600 degrees. It heats to a bright red to cool orange color. I feel like this is too cold, and I may definitely be wrong in that assumption. Or I may be totally overlooking a quality of this steel, as I have never worked with it. Regardless, I am still curious as to how I can get my forge to heat metal more efficiently, and at higher temperatures. Here are some things I have tried. -Covering the back opening of the forge with a layer of insulation, and firebrick. This heat the metal more evenly, as opposed to focusing all the heat directly below the burner, but didn't seem to bring the temperature of my leaf spring up very substantially. -Increasing the PSI. I have toyed with raising the pressure, which heated my material faster, but caused my tank to start icing up and losing pressure. -Testing different amounts of airflow at the intake. I have to admit I have no idea what affect this has on my forge, I have tried many different airflows, but haven't noticed a huge difference, other than the fire seems to "breathe" better with more airflow (fairly obvious). -Being patient. I've tried my hardest to just give it time, but it seems to just reach a certain temperature and just plateau. -Adjusting the height of the burner in the forge. I have read about adjusting the height of the burner, but the design only allows me about a half inch of adjustment, so I am just looking for any suggestions as to better insulate, change my burner characteristics, or anything basic that I have overlooked in my unfamiliarity with blacksmithing as a whole. Thank you all for any responses.
  6. Dari

    Gas furnace

    We made a horn from the half of a 50 l balloon and a 50 cm ceramic fiber lining. What other measures can be taken to improve the characteristics of the horn? Which burner design do you prefer? I also want to learn forging welding, but I don't know how to achieve high temperature and energy.to avoid overspending gas?
  7. Hello All! New member here and new to forging metal. My ultimate goal is to learn metalworking, being a blacksmith and maybe even become a blade smith. One step at a time. Over the past couple years, read all I could and scanned tons of websites to learn what to do and how to do it. My first attempt at a forge was the 2 bucket forge. Learned a bunch on what to do and what not to do! In the end, the forge ate itself and died a horrible death. Even the crucible I was using did not make it! Trying to use all the metal for green sand casting, only using aluminium and brass currently. So I started work on the second forge. Was able to find 2 old LP Tanks that I cut up to make the top and bottom. Added handles, hinged the top and made the tube for the opening (8" Sakrete form tube with a plywood base). The refractory is the basic mix (Portland cement, perlite, silica sand and fire clay) and has cured for well over 3 weeks. The wheeled cart is a 2x4 frame with a 1/2" plywood bottom filled with a mortar mix. Did use some Sakrete red color on the mortar mix. Going to clean up the edges! Cut two holes for the venturi burners. Went out today and got the 6"x1-5/8" round 1018 steel standoff. Not sure that is the name for what it does. Next is to make the second burner, mount them and paint the forge. Some questions that I would like to get good info about. The 1018 steel standoff, is that a good thing or should it be avoided altogether? The top of the forge is solid, should I make a vent hole in the top? What is the best way to monitor temperature? Where can I get some good tongs and pouring rig? What am I missing? Thanks in advance! Kevlar99
  8. Hello all, Wanted to share my first build with you guys so I can hopefully get it done in a good way the first time. I am still working on getting supplies together. I don't have a bunch of fab equipment, so I am trying to re-purpose this old stainless sink. I am looking to create a really basic forge so I can get to heating steel relatively quickly, both in the sense of a easy build, but also a build that is well insulated. One thing I am still thinking out is the angle of the burner. I know a 10/15 degree offset is recommended. I am going to try the Zoeller sidearm burner, which I know is rated for ~350cu/in, so I will work on get the insulation sized correctly. Any tips or critiques, please send them. Thanks, Mic
  9. So I assume this has been covered 100 times before, but hear me out: I recently built a Frosty T burner. (And it works pretty well) I had planned to make a gas forge with kaowool and a propane tank, but I learned the extent of the dangers of kaowool. (I already knew it was bad but not this bad) I know there are refractory sealants to protect me from the fumes but I don't want to take that risk. So I want to build a gas forge with firebricks. The issue is: how do I build a stable firebrick forge without welding (and with a low budget) I still don't have access to a welder. I've looked around a lot for info on this and I've found nothing. (Loads more time than an hour this time BTW...) If I made a forge would the brick would I need refractory cement to seal it? Do I even need to support the bricks to make a stable forge? And what type of bricks do I use: soft or hard?
  10. There are two types of firebricks: hard and soft. From what I've heard hard firebricks take longer to get hot but are cheaper than soft firebricks. And soft firebricks the opposite. Is it imperative to use soft firebricks? I mean I'm making my first gas forge and I have a budget limit. Getting the amount of soft firebricks I need could cost upwards of 70$ usd. But hard firebrick from like homedepot could cost only 30$ usd. Which do I choose?
  11. I found this youtube video on making a simple burner for a gas forge. I have made a burner to melt aluminum in a foundry before. With most burners (and the one I made) I find that they cost a lot to make or require a lot of up-keep. This one seems almost too simple. What do y'all think? I'm not looking for it to last my whole life but to just get started in gas forges. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=67rxU02fv6o (P.S. I would make quite a few modifications like an air flow regulator and such.) Your boi, Jacob
  12. Hello.... I have a few questions... I'm in the process of making a forced air burner.... my question is my gas comes in from the side at 90deg to the air pipe... I feel that it would be better if it came in from the same direction as the air does... I've attached a pic of my 1st attempt and then a pic of my next sort of plan..... someone said to me for forced air I should use 1 1/2 in piping for burner tube and air intake.... can anyone give some input... thanks Nic
  13. Hi all iv built a vanturi burner and it has a problem I think. it lights fine and runs fine (no sputtering) but when I open the air vent(Just a thumb screw to open and close the top)I can't open it any more then 3mm or it will blow out when I lowered the pressure to 2-3psi I could open it slightly more but then same results. Can anyone help me? I can't find anyone with this problem maybe it isn't a problem just a very small window of adjustability thanks for the help in advance. (Iv added a drawing of what all the dimensions are.) Sorry forgot to add my gas orifice was 0.6mm then I swapped it for 0.8mm that worked better. do I just need to increase that again to decrease the pressure difference and slow the air intake or am i over thinking it.
  14. My friend recently passed away and his wife is wanting to sell some things. Any idea what to ask for this forge?
  15. Ladies and gents - I am building a gas forge this winter. Planning to use Michael Porter's basic propane cylinder design. Because it is already piped to my property, I would like to use natural gas. This would eliminate the need for bottles, and for keeping them changed. Is it possible to use natural gas instead of propane with a simple, naturally aspirated forge? Are there any cons to doing so? Do you know of any guides or FAQs about doing so? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  16. I have recently follow frosty's T burner plans and have one problem,my burner will be running good with dark and light blue flames it will suddenly go out and I would have to re light it. any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
  17. Hi I have been using a coal forge for the last while, but coal is not easy to find in my area(at an affordable price) so I'm attempting gas. I did some research and felt good about it and set out building the burner. I failed. Find my efforts attached. Here's my problem. Instead of the short "blowtorch" type flames i get metre plus dull red-orange flames. Any obvious things I'm doing wrong? Or am I not even close. Please help! Thanks!
  18. Hello all, I am going to start building my forge and I am just finishing ordering everything, I have a few questions about insulation. From what I have read, it seems like using ceramic wool is the easiest way to insulate a gas forge, I know it needs to be replaced once in a while because it wears down. Is it best to have 2" of insulation? And are you supposed to line the wool with refractory cement? Or just use straight wool? I know the stuff is bad for your lungs and I was wondering if it lets particles off in the air while it's burning. I plan on laying fire bricks on the very bottom of my forge. Thanks in advance.
  19. Good evening ladies and gentlemen! Having read though a few of the previous threads in the gasser subsection I couldn't find information which would improve my understanding of the intricacies of constructing a forge. Ignoring which burner I would construct to heat my forge I was hoping I could list out the materials I would use to construct the forge and learn whether or not the items I intend to buy would work or be a waste of time and money? I aim to build my forge inside of an empty gas canister 500mm in diameter and about 700mm in height. For lining the forge I was going to use a two layer system of ceramic fibre blanket underneath castable refractory cement in order to speed up the heating of the forge and save fuel. I've read in other threads that where people had only used castable refractory it lead to increased heating times and fuel inefficiency while fibre only builds introduced the risks of breathing hazards and damage to the wool from the flame exposure. My only concern is that the fibre that I have singled out (being available by the metre as opposed to buying a whole whopping big roll of the stuff!) has a lower melting temp than my refractory. The temperature limits are 1260degC for the fibre and 1600degC for the cement. Would 25mm of cement be enough to protect the fibre from temperatures in excess of its melting point or would I need to go thicker, increasing heating time but not liquefying my fibre? I'll post links to the products I intended to use before happening upon iforgeiron and prepare myself to be schooled Ceramic: http://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-refractory-castable-grade-1600-refractory-concrete-505-p.asp Fibre: http://shop.vitcas.com/ceramic-fibre-blanket-25mm-vitcas-ceramic-insulation-197-p.asp Rigidiser: http://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-ceramic-fibre-rigidiser-1035-p.asp Many thanks in advance! Seph
  20. I bought a bran new propane torch for 30 bucks. It will be for my gas forge, once I can figure out why it won't stay lit! The torch is hooked up to a PSI regulator, 0-20 PSI. Here is the regulator : https://www.amazon.com/GASPRO-Pressure-Propane-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B01M4SA4PG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1487707210&sr=8-16&keywords=psi+regulator I turn the psi all the way up and light the torch, and it instantly dies. After fooling around, I figured out that covering the air holes on the burner keeps the flame alive, but burns very slowly, obviously.. The moment I move my hand off of the air holes, the flame goes out. What is going on here?! Pictures of the torch :
  21. Hello all, I'm currently working on building a gas forge using a helium tank as the shell. I was planning on lining with 2" kaowool, but by my calculations, that leaves me with a larger interior volume than I expected. So I'd likely need two burners. But when I set two inlet ports on the tank, it looks crowded. Am I doing something wrong? The tank is 14" tall and 12" in diameter. About 10" of the height is the full diameter, with 2" on each end forming the end caps, so to speak. Using just the 10" straight section, and assuming a 2" lining, I'm coming up with an inner volume of about 500 cubic inches. Am I correct in thinking I'd need 2 of most types of burners, or maybe a single T-rex? Should I go for 3 inches of lining to further reduce the chamber volume? Many thanks.
  22. Here are some pictures of the forge build I'm currently working on! It's a motor shell insulated with ceramic kaowool blanket and coated with refractory cement. I'm just waiting on the cement to dry so I can coat the whole thing in itc-100 and fire it up! I've included a not so great photo of the burner I will be using in it as well. I'd love to explain it but it's one my dad built years ago and hasn't gotten around to showing me how to build yet. Let me know what you think! Thanks for reading! Spencer Dirks
  23. So here is what happened: I have recently bought a $130 Devil Forge (I got this one). Now after I ordered it, I realized that this doesn't have a connection kit( no hose, regulator, valve) and I need one. What I was thinking do can do is get a regulator, a hose, and a gasket. Clamp the hose onto the burner using the gasket, then connect the hose to the regulator, regulator to the tank. Since these guys are from Europe it's kinda hard to contact them. So would my idea work? If not, what world work and where can I buy it? Welding supply, propane store? I need to know what will work and where to get what I need to connect the burner to the tank.
  24. Hi guys I have recently bought a forge: http://m.ebay.com/itm/252086987885?_mwBanner=1 it doesn't come with a connection kit, which is why I am here. Is there any thing I can buy in the US that will serve as a connector kit, connecting the propane to the regulator, then the hose? Do I have to cut off the top of say a barbecue hose and connect it to the burner with a air tight clamp? I need help because I am so urgent to start working. Thanks! PS links on what to buy is WELL appreciated.
  25. Hey guys. Sooooo I decided to just go ahead and buy a ready-made forge to speed the learning process along. Got it in the mail today. It seems pretty sturdy, the main tube did get a little bent in transit, but nothing I couldn't mostly fix or deal with. The burner it comes with seems pretty straightforward, not sure what design it's based off of, but it looks serviceable. The major issue I have at the moment is that, while it does come with a regulator and hose for connecting a propane tank, the regulator is designed for some strange European standard and I need two absurdly specific little components to make it compatible. Also, the measurements on the gauge are in Russian, and I don't recognize the symbols. I think I might just end up going downtown tomorrow and buying a Bayou Classic or something close, just because I hate having to change things I don't particularly understand. I already coated the kaowool with some ITC-100, spritzed the wool down with some water first and then mixed and painted it on. Tried to cover any and all exposed wool. Not entirely sure I did it completely right, and I would have liked to add more kaowool, but I'm working with what I have at the moment. A couple pictures: They were also nice enough to include a pre-cut firebrick for the forge floor. I have a couple as well, so I'll probably be able to use those for closing up the back end a bit. I'm very excited, Now I have some very visual progress towards being able to hammer some metal out. I just wish all the provided instructions for the regulator weren't in Russian. Ah well. So, there you have it. I'll probably update this once I can get some gas and a regulator.
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