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Found 37 results

  1. Hello All! New member here and new to forging metal. My ultimate goal is to learn metalworking, being a blacksmith and maybe even become a blade smith. One step at a time. Over the past couple years, read all I could and scanned tons of websites to learn what to do and how to do it. My first attempt at a forge was the 2 bucket forge. Learned a bunch on what to do and what not to do! In the end, the forge ate itself and died a horrible death. Even the crucible I was using did not make it! Trying to use all the metal for green sand casting, only using aluminium and brass currently. So I started work on the second forge. Was able to find 2 old LP Tanks that I cut up to make the top and bottom. Added handles, hinged the top and made the tube for the opening (8" Sakrete form tube with a plywood base). The refractory is the basic mix (Portland cement, perlite, silica sand and fire clay) and has cured for well over 3 weeks. The wheeled cart is a 2x4 frame with a 1/2" plywood bottom filled with a mortar mix. Did use some Sakrete red color on the mortar mix. Going to clean up the edges! Cut two holes for the venturi burners. Went out today and got the 6"x1-5/8" round 1018 steel standoff. Not sure that is the name for what it does. Next is to make the second burner, mount them and paint the forge. Some questions that I would like to get good info about. The 1018 steel standoff, is that a good thing or should it be avoided altogether? The top of the forge is solid, should I make a vent hole in the top? What is the best way to monitor temperature? Where can I get some good tongs and pouring rig? What am I missing? Thanks in advance! Kevlar99
  2. Hello all, Wanted to share my first build with you guys so I can hopefully get it done in a good way the first time. I am still working on getting supplies together. I don't have a bunch of fab equipment, so I am trying to re-purpose this old stainless sink. I am looking to create a really basic forge so I can get to heating steel relatively quickly, both in the sense of a easy build, but also a build that is well insulated. One thing I am still thinking out is the angle of the burner. I know a 10/15 degree offset is recommended. I am going to try the Zoeller sidearm burner, which I know is rated for ~350cu/in, so I will work on get the insulation sized correctly. Any tips or critiques, please send them. Thanks, Mic
  3. So I assume this has been covered 100 times before, but hear me out: I recently built a Frosty T burner. (And it works pretty well) I had planned to make a gas forge with kaowool and a propane tank, but I learned the extent of the dangers of kaowool. (I already knew it was bad but not this bad) I know there are refractory sealants to protect me from the fumes but I don't want to take that risk. So I want to build a gas forge with firebricks. The issue is: how do I build a stable firebrick forge without welding (and with a low budget) I still don't have access to a welder. I've looked around a lot for info on this and I've found nothing. (Loads more time than an hour this time BTW...) If I made a forge would the brick would I need refractory cement to seal it? Do I even need to support the bricks to make a stable forge? And what type of bricks do I use: soft or hard?
  4. There are two types of firebricks: hard and soft. From what I've heard hard firebricks take longer to get hot but are cheaper than soft firebricks. And soft firebricks the opposite. Is it imperative to use soft firebricks? I mean I'm making my first gas forge and I have a budget limit. Getting the amount of soft firebricks I need could cost upwards of 70$ usd. But hard firebrick from like homedepot could cost only 30$ usd. Which do I choose?
  5. I found this youtube video on making a simple burner for a gas forge. I have made a burner to melt aluminum in a foundry before. With most burners (and the one I made) I find that they cost a lot to make or require a lot of up-keep. This one seems almost too simple. What do y'all think? I'm not looking for it to last my whole life but to just get started in gas forges. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=67rxU02fv6o (P.S. I would make quite a few modifications like an air flow regulator and such.) Your boi, Jacob
  6. Nic

    Forced air burner

    Hello.... I have a few questions... I'm in the process of making a forced air burner.... my question is my gas comes in from the side at 90deg to the air pipe... I feel that it would be better if it came in from the same direction as the air does... I've attached a pic of my 1st attempt and then a pic of my next sort of plan..... someone said to me for forced air I should use 1 1/2 in piping for burner tube and air intake.... can anyone give some input... thanks Nic
  7. Hi all iv built a vanturi burner and it has a problem I think. it lights fine and runs fine (no sputtering) but when I open the air vent(Just a thumb screw to open and close the top)I can't open it any more then 3mm or it will blow out when I lowered the pressure to 2-3psi I could open it slightly more but then same results. Can anyone help me? I can't find anyone with this problem maybe it isn't a problem just a very small window of adjustability thanks for the help in advance. (Iv added a drawing of what all the dimensions are.) Sorry forgot to add my gas orifice was 0.6mm then I swapped it for 0.8mm that worked better. do I just need to increase that again to decrease the pressure difference and slow the air intake or am i over thinking it.
  8. My friend recently passed away and his wife is wanting to sell some things. Any idea what to ask for this forge?
  9. Ladies and gents - I am building a gas forge this winter. Planning to use Michael Porter's basic propane cylinder design. Because it is already piped to my property, I would like to use natural gas. This would eliminate the need for bottles, and for keeping them changed. Is it possible to use natural gas instead of propane with a simple, naturally aspirated forge? Are there any cons to doing so? Do you know of any guides or FAQs about doing so? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  10. Forgehermet

    T burner

    I have recently follow frosty's T burner plans and have one problem,my burner will be running good with dark and light blue flames it will suddenly go out and I would have to re light it. any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
  11. Hi I have been using a coal forge for the last while, but coal is not easy to find in my area(at an affordable price) so I'm attempting gas. I did some research and felt good about it and set out building the burner. I failed. Find my efforts attached. Here's my problem. Instead of the short "blowtorch" type flames i get metre plus dull red-orange flames. Any obvious things I'm doing wrong? Or am I not even close. Please help! Thanks!
  12. Hello all, I am going to start building my forge and I am just finishing ordering everything, I have a few questions about insulation. From what I have read, it seems like using ceramic wool is the easiest way to insulate a gas forge, I know it needs to be replaced once in a while because it wears down. Is it best to have 2" of insulation? And are you supposed to line the wool with refractory cement? Or just use straight wool? I know the stuff is bad for your lungs and I was wondering if it lets particles off in the air while it's burning. I plan on laying fire bricks on the very bottom of my forge. Thanks in advance.
  13. Seph

    First Gas Forge

    Good evening ladies and gentlemen! Having read though a few of the previous threads in the gasser subsection I couldn't find information which would improve my understanding of the intricacies of constructing a forge. Ignoring which burner I would construct to heat my forge I was hoping I could list out the materials I would use to construct the forge and learn whether or not the items I intend to buy would work or be a waste of time and money? I aim to build my forge inside of an empty gas canister 500mm in diameter and about 700mm in height. For lining the forge I was going to use a two layer system of ceramic fibre blanket underneath castable refractory cement in order to speed up the heating of the forge and save fuel. I've read in other threads that where people had only used castable refractory it lead to increased heating times and fuel inefficiency while fibre only builds introduced the risks of breathing hazards and damage to the wool from the flame exposure. My only concern is that the fibre that I have singled out (being available by the metre as opposed to buying a whole whopping big roll of the stuff!) has a lower melting temp than my refractory. The temperature limits are 1260degC for the fibre and 1600degC for the cement. Would 25mm of cement be enough to protect the fibre from temperatures in excess of its melting point or would I need to go thicker, increasing heating time but not liquefying my fibre? I'll post links to the products I intended to use before happening upon iforgeiron and prepare myself to be schooled Ceramic: http://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-refractory-castable-grade-1600-refractory-concrete-505-p.asp Fibre: http://shop.vitcas.com/ceramic-fibre-blanket-25mm-vitcas-ceramic-insulation-197-p.asp Rigidiser: http://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-ceramic-fibre-rigidiser-1035-p.asp Many thanks in advance! Seph
  14. I bought a bran new propane torch for 30 bucks. It will be for my gas forge, once I can figure out why it won't stay lit! The torch is hooked up to a PSI regulator, 0-20 PSI. Here is the regulator : https://www.amazon.com/GASPRO-Pressure-Propane-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B01M4SA4PG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1487707210&sr=8-16&keywords=psi+regulator I turn the psi all the way up and light the torch, and it instantly dies. After fooling around, I figured out that covering the air holes on the burner keeps the flame alive, but burns very slowly, obviously.. The moment I move my hand off of the air holes, the flame goes out. What is going on here?! Pictures of the torch :
  15. Hello all, I'm currently working on building a gas forge using a helium tank as the shell. I was planning on lining with 2" kaowool, but by my calculations, that leaves me with a larger interior volume than I expected. So I'd likely need two burners. But when I set two inlet ports on the tank, it looks crowded. Am I doing something wrong? The tank is 14" tall and 12" in diameter. About 10" of the height is the full diameter, with 2" on each end forming the end caps, so to speak. Using just the 10" straight section, and assuming a 2" lining, I'm coming up with an inner volume of about 500 cubic inches. Am I correct in thinking I'd need 2 of most types of burners, or maybe a single T-rex? Should I go for 3 inches of lining to further reduce the chamber volume? Many thanks.
  16. Here are some pictures of the forge build I'm currently working on! It's a motor shell insulated with ceramic kaowool blanket and coated with refractory cement. I'm just waiting on the cement to dry so I can coat the whole thing in itc-100 and fire it up! I've included a not so great photo of the burner I will be using in it as well. I'd love to explain it but it's one my dad built years ago and hasn't gotten around to showing me how to build yet. Let me know what you think! Thanks for reading! Spencer Dirks
  17. So here is what happened: I have recently bought a $130 Devil Forge (I got this one). Now after I ordered it, I realized that this doesn't have a connection kit( no hose, regulator, valve) and I need one. What I was thinking do can do is get a regulator, a hose, and a gasket. Clamp the hose onto the burner using the gasket, then connect the hose to the regulator, regulator to the tank. Since these guys are from Europe it's kinda hard to contact them. So would my idea work? If not, what world work and where can I buy it? Welding supply, propane store? I need to know what will work and where to get what I need to connect the burner to the tank.
  18. Hi guys I have recently bought a forge: http://m.ebay.com/itm/252086987885?_mwBanner=1 it doesn't come with a connection kit, which is why I am here. Is there any thing I can buy in the US that will serve as a connector kit, connecting the propane to the regulator, then the hose? Do I have to cut off the top of say a barbecue hose and connect it to the burner with a air tight clamp? I need help because I am so urgent to start working. Thanks! PS links on what to buy is WELL appreciated.
  19. Hey guys. Sooooo I decided to just go ahead and buy a ready-made forge to speed the learning process along. Got it in the mail today. It seems pretty sturdy, the main tube did get a little bent in transit, but nothing I couldn't mostly fix or deal with. The burner it comes with seems pretty straightforward, not sure what design it's based off of, but it looks serviceable. The major issue I have at the moment is that, while it does come with a regulator and hose for connecting a propane tank, the regulator is designed for some strange European standard and I need two absurdly specific little components to make it compatible. Also, the measurements on the gauge are in Russian, and I don't recognize the symbols. I think I might just end up going downtown tomorrow and buying a Bayou Classic or something close, just because I hate having to change things I don't particularly understand. I already coated the kaowool with some ITC-100, spritzed the wool down with some water first and then mixed and painted it on. Tried to cover any and all exposed wool. Not entirely sure I did it completely right, and I would have liked to add more kaowool, but I'm working with what I have at the moment. A couple pictures: They were also nice enough to include a pre-cut firebrick for the forge floor. I have a couple as well, so I'll probably be able to use those for closing up the back end a bit. I'm very excited, Now I have some very visual progress towards being able to hammer some metal out. I just wish all the provided instructions for the regulator weren't in Russian. Ah well. So, there you have it. I'll probably update this once I can get some gas and a regulator.
  20. I have been reading Michael Porter's great book on burner and forge design. I am going to build his basic 25-gal propane cylinder forge. His basic design calls for a 1/2" burners for forge diameters up to 6", 3/4" burners up to 9" dia, and 1" up to 12" dia. For evenness of heat, would it better to use, for example, two 1/2" burners instead of one 3/4" burner?
  21. Hey there guys, long time lurker but I have a question that I am hoping someone can help me with. i am trying to learn to forge weld and am having tons of difficulty. I think i have come to the conclusion that it infact is my forge not getting hot enough. Here is my set up. cofee can forge fired with a 3/4 inch reil style butner. Orafice is drilled to 1/16th (smallest i could find), ran at 5-10psi. Burner is then helped with ~25psi of air from the back to aid in compustion. I get good heat for forging and shaping but not near enough to weld. Looking at ways to increase the heat output. Im using straight propane not mapp. the borax does melt when its put on something that clmes directly from the forge.
  22. Hello folks, this is my first post on here. To give you a quick background: I don't have much internet access (phone only for now) so excuse me if I've missed other threads with similar specifications. Up to now I've only worked with coal forges, but due to my recent move, it won't be possible to run coal SO I've decided to build a gas forge. I've seen tons of options on here concerning size, shape, and number of burners. Now I don't know exactly what info you need to answer my questions, but I work with mostly round and square stock from 1/2" to 1", and do lots of scroll bending and twisting. With my current forge I am working with up to 12" of material at a time with multiple pieces in the fire because sometimes I have more than one person working in the shop. Here is my plan so far: I have a surplus of 8"x8"x10" refractory blocks. I will be cutting them in half to use as my lining. I also plan to build frosty's T burner plan as the burner(s). My questions are A) how many burners should I run and B ) how big should I build the forge? Thanks in in advance for any input.
  23. Several years ago I stumbled onto gas forges on Youtube. I have always thought it would be fun to take out my frustrations on a red hot piece of steel but decided I needed another hobby like I needed a hole in my head. Flash forward to a couple weeks ago. I stumbled onto 2 empty propane tanks with damaged valves. A friend asked if I wanted some one inch ceramic wool rated at 2300 degrees, and I said yes. So, Armed with this free stuff, I figured it was a sign that I was supposed to make a forge and that is what I started this weekend. Removed the valves, filled them with water several time then one time with dish soap. Got a propane torch and tested if the gas was gone. It was. Watched a few videos and read a lot of stuff Cut the wool to shape, wearing proper protective gear, so I would have two inches Now I am stuck, because a couple places on the net and one video said to use something called hardener. I can't find that. I am also not sure if I should create a floor out of a fire brick. It seems like it would be a good idea. So, here I am. completely and totally new to this blacksmith thing and really excited. In the real world I teach middle school reading to struggling readers, and I manage the family business. The forge will be at the business. Can't burn anything down there. Now I am off to read a lot.
  24. I know this is probably an over-posted topic, but I've been looking for an answer for quite a while and I haven't found it. I've seen several pros and cons lists about coal vs. gas stoves. I've seen a lot of the same information, but also a lot of conflicting information. I'm looking to build a mid-size forge to be my first forge. I am a complete novice at blacksmithy. That being said, I've seen some people who say that coal stoves are the way to go for beginners. According to some, because of the versatility and better heat available with a coal forge, that is where all beginners should start. People also say that the larger surface area and ease of welding are major pros that help beginners. However, some people say that because coal forges burn hotter, it's easier to burn your project, it's harder to replicate results, and controlling the fire and the metal is too much for a beginner to handle. There are also obvious health risks. Proponents of gas stoves claim that the forge itself is much easier to operate, it's easy to reach welding temps, it's cleaner, it's harder to burn your steel, and they don't require maintenance. Opponents say that gas stoves are touchy, they don't get as hot as coal, they restrict the beginner's ability to learn how to use the heat, and that gas is much more expensive. I live in Vermont, and I'm fairly certain that both anthracite and bituminous coal are readily available to me. Propane and MAPP are also available. I don't know, however, which will end up being more expensive. TL;DR- I have 3 questions. As a complete novice, should I work with a Coal or Gas forge? Which type of forge will cost me more to operate? (Ignore costs of making the forge)Just in general, what sort of forge will serve me best? (I plan to bladesmith, and probably construction of pieces with welding, brazing, riveting are in my future..)Thanks All! JNP
  25. Hi, I'm looking to build a 72 inch vertical forge with minimal volume. Does anyone have any advice on design? My basic plan is to use a steel pipe (8 inch diameter) lined with 2 inches of Kaowool. This will provide a 4 inch diameter mouth that runs the length of the pipe, which will give me enough room to hang longer pieces for a heat treat soak. I'm not looking for forging heat, but definitely need to get thicker steel to critical temperature for heat treat. I'm thinking about using a 3-burner system, evenly spaced along the length of the pipe to try to keep my heat even but I'm concerned that I'll end up with nasty hot spots around the burners. Is there a way to even out the heat better? Is 2 inches of Kaowool enough to provide efficient operation? Any and all advice is welcome! Thanks!