Dueldor

Ahh ok I will look for him. Yea I can work out square and rectangle stock, but for whatever reason round is just beyond my grasp to get how to make calculations about changing shape. I'll get it just gotta find an explanation that makes sense to me... Thanks Frosty.

*RRRRAAAGGGGHHH* Brrraaaaiiiiinnnnsssss. Sorry letting the zombies out again, Dave I have a question of the length of material you start with. I'm getting ready to make a pair of hammer tongs using the same material and as your tongs are very similiar to what i'm going to make I figured you might be able to help me with cutting off enough. I guesstimated about 10" should make me a decent enough pair of tongs once drawn out and shaped and all. Hopefully you still remember years later what you started with? If not ah well lol.

Hey guys, I realize this thread is only about sic and a half years old, so I apologize for resurrecting the dead lol. However I just stumbled upon this and wanted to share my air gate design as well. it actually diverts some of the air instead of just a blockage also has a choke. this is obviously before i closed it all up lol. it works awesome too!

I want to say I recall reading frosty mentioning that. Too many jumbles of info jammed in this old bucket of mine lol. Really appreciate y'all's patients with me. I will let you all know my progress.

Would you even consider this a good starting point? I'm glad I know now that info was no good. I was going into it assuming that it might not be true anyways, but now I know for sure so thank you, sir! That's good to know that the test blocks don't give you long to evaluate also, I will make sure I'm ready before lighting. Really appreciate all the input, thank you for sharing your wisdom!

Well I'm glad I said something rather than just moving ahead with the build at 3/4 lol. I am totally down with trying a 1/4 burner. I don't know if this is 100% true, but I want to say I read some where that to calculate the holes for the ribbon burner that the surface area of the flame face outlets and the burner inlet tube should be the same. Using this math reducing the burner inlet to 1/4" I would need 16, 1/16" flame face outlets. I like the testing with a 2x2 so I will have to do this and let you all know what my results are. What did you mean by this?

I was honestly just wondering if it would be plausible, but it will be a 1gal can. 1inch of CFI and 1/4" of satanite. By my calculation that gives me a 4" diameter and it's going to be a passthrough so 7-1/2" long. My thoughts and plans on the burner for now is 1-1/2 sq 5" long with 16, 3/16" holes in two rows of five and one of six. Spread over the face and a 1-1/2" form with a 3/4" frosty t. This is all just playing around. My solid fuel forge is just way bigger than I need for most of what I plan to make, and this paint can will be much more manageable in my small (10'x20') shop.

OK fellow metal movers, curious about ribbon burners and size. Has anyone tried to make a ribbon burner for a paint can forge? I have some materials and a consideration to make one using 1-1/2" square tube about 5" long just as an experiment to see if it's possible. I would love to hear thoughts on this endeavor.

Ahh of course area! I should have realized that lol. Thank you!

Hey Frosty, getting ready to put together one of your burners for a paint can forge and I'm reading over your directions. They say that the air port openings should be 2x the diameter of the burner inlet, but the openings on the example are only 1" vs 3/4". Or is it that the total opening should be at least 2x so two 1" openings is 2", more than twice 3/4"?

My fire beast awake and going to sleep. Man I love that forge heart!

Thanks for that buzzkill. I think I'll just do a manual valve to switch with a gauge after the valve so I can see what either tank has. Is there an advantage to having a gauge after the needle valve? Or is it enough just to have the one gauge?

Sorry, 100# tanks not gallon. Thanks for catching that frosty. Still less than what I would have paid for one brand new 40#.

Do propane level sensors work well in this setup? I'm just trying to eliminate the chances of mid project and all of a sudden I have no heat. I got a smokin deal on 2 100gallon tanks for $100 total. I wanted 40s, but that was less than I would have paid for 1 40 so I jumped! That and I tend to overcomplicate things to make them simpler lol. Cause that makes sense right?

Hello, my fellow metal heads! Got an idea I've been bashing around for about a year and a half. I am thinking of using an auto changeover to run two lpg cylinders for my forge. One empties the valve auto switches to the other allowing you to change and recharge without ever loosing pressure. Has anyone else run a setup like this? Do the auto changeovers work? I see a lot of them are output regulated to 11" W.C. which is not even .5 psi. Does anyone have a better way I can set this up than an autochangover? Thanks folks! Dueldor