Wide narrow depth forges

[Candidquality]

Since we only work  a few inches at a time, I am looking at designing wide body, but narrow depth forges.  We see similar in the ferrier forges with the wide side opening, but rarely are those side doors ever used by other designs.  When they are used, they do not block off the unused opening area to get that reflectance back to the forge.  So thought about the following smaller forge designs to keep from getting heat where it is not needed,  without loosing all that reflected energy.  

 

Just a few volumes I'm considering, and will be building multiple shells for a table top adjustable forge.  I'll be keeping the burner entry as it's own entity as a 2" high wall with burner or ribbon angled up to swirl and keep from having that oxidizing hot spot, so could easily switch between designs based on needs at the time.  

 

 

[Candidquality]

Here is an example for 10 inch wide by 3 inches deep. 5 inch high at the peak.  Gives 136 cubic inches. the doors can be closer to the openings, which would keep in more heat, but by being wider, would allow for more ventilation to keep from stopping the NA burner.   At least that's part of the thought.   This is with a half inch burner, so should get to welding heat?

 

[Mikey98118]

Yery good design work. However, you should consider a straight and parallel tunnel for your flame retention area. Otherwise, you are likely to end up getting back fires into the burner's mixing tube. Also, you would be better off raising the angle of the burner, and tunnel so that the flame is sure to miss impinging on the work, but more importantly to assure that there is no chimney effect after shutdown. Yes, a 1/2" should get this forge to welding heat. Yes, the exhaust opening's width is a plus, and I would suggest movable bricks for your baffle wall, rather than any forge door on this design.

    Thank you for posting such a fine drawing

[Candidquality]

Actually that area inside the block has the same area for the entrance and exit.  It is not a flare, and not intended to hold the flame inside the brick.  Simply flattened to make use of the area available in a 3" wall height.   Hopefully all the flame stays inside the forge away from my burner.  I am sure I can angle it more since nothing is stopping me from having a larger burner entrance block.  

 Was also considering ribbon burner with the jets at an angle from the surface of 45 degrees or more.  I can play with those rather quickly as well.  I have a decent supply of 1/16th inch thick paper good to 2350F, so a quick splash of plistex and I could test for a few hours if needed.  Just need to buy a set of leather punches to pop in the holes.    

 

I get the better angle idea, this was a rough draft first time I have put my thoughts into paper.  And as to the paper, this is actually output from my software.  Reminded me of the old blueprints we used to have.  Can make oodles more as they really do convey the idea without worry about dimensions.  

[Mikey98118]

Understood, and agreed with

[Candidquality]

Have a set of punches on the way to be here Wednesday.  Going to play with my paper and plistex 900 to really see what nozzles I can have fun with before converting to the hard refractory.   Can just roll a tube and tape in place for tests.  Have 30+ punch designs on the way, so if anyone comes up with a fun design to test, will be happy to play and toss it into the front of the burner.  

 

 

Printed nozzles down to 1/4.  They are so cute.  Used the id of the nominal schedule 40 black pipe for easier comparison, but no real reason to limit there. 

I don't think I mentioned these will be dispenser nozzles.  So many fun sizes to play with.  Grabbed some 19 gage stainless as those are one of the common sizes used, but also grabbed a 10 pack assortment from 14 to 27 gage .  Have oodles of others to test, and only takes seconds to switch out.