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  1. I'm trying to design a new forge since my first one is a pile of bricks from menards that barely heats to 2200 degrees F. After reading this forum for hours, I'm coming close to my design. Hoping to get some advice before I build anything. Plus maybe someone else can use what I do wrong in the future. The shape kind of takes after video removed dur to advertising by alec steele, but with 1 burner and significantly smaller. The burner is a Mikey style 3/4 Venturi Burner from his book. Its as advanced and tuned as we were able to get it. I planned on having it pointing at one of the sides of the inside of the dome to get the swirl. I know where to find the post about how deep to put it. The forge is a bottom with a dome shape on top, with 12 gauge steel. It would have 2, 1" ceramic blanket layers (with the rigidizer), followed up by 1/2in Kastolite 30 (With kiln wash). All with a kiln shelf floor. I was thinking to build it in 2 parts, the top and bottom. Then have the arch sitting on either kastolite or blanket to seal the gaps. For ease of construction. The limiting factors I've found are that I only have 1 burner, and I've already purchased 10lbs of kastolite so I'm trying not to need more Is there anything wrong with my design? Do you have any advice with the way im building it? Should I make it longer? Its at 261 In^3 with 10 inches length. So according to the 300in^3 per burner I could add a little. I haven't thought about what I should do for any sort of forge doors. We have firebrick but I've read that it sucks in heat. Will it provide enough heat with this setup? I want to make this forge as nice as I can, so it can last a long time and provide what I need.
  2. So... My kid saw this online and said she wanted one. It took me a while, but I finally was able to make something I didn’t hate. Question: How would you go about cleaning this thing up? There is weld splatter, forge scale, and all sorts of other “dirty” stuff that probably doesn’t belong in a little girls bedroom or on something kids will handle. I don’t have a sand blasting cabinet and the idea of hand sanding or going over all of the little parts on this with a dremmel does not sound happy. Can you sand blast without a cabinet?
  3. Hi all! I quickly progressed from coal to gas in a matter of trying coal once. we dont agree. Anyrate. Disclaimer: I am 99% self taught so..I followed the plans laid out by a youtuber i made a gas forge and burners out of an old propane tank and some pipe. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiSgR-IJMyk) I am quite proud of myself i learned how to stick weld also. After a couple of small projects (simple tons, knife and Kukhri) im getting more comfortable really cranking the heat. I have since then got a fire brick to go inside and i stack on the backside of the forge. I am running a 30 psi regulator. Being said when i light the forge i steadly increase the gas, when i hear popping i increase it more. At one point just recently i was unable to increase my gas flow and i kept hearing the popping. A couple questions: What do i need to do to stop this? get a higher regulator? I assume my forge was too hot? I also assume if i continue to let the popping happen that is bad? Thanks in advance.
  4. I'm new to blacksmithing, and I bought this forge link removed from Amazon for cheap because of that. I have it setup on just a standard 15lb propane tank that you would use for grilling. For smaller projects, it has worked great, I can get my material heated up fairly quickly, and at a temperature I feel is good for working and moving metal. With smaller pieces, such as an old file, rebar, or an old punch, I am able to get it heated up to a nice bright orange when set around 10psi. I would estimate around 2,000-2,200 degrees. However, I discovered some old leaf spring steel in an old shop last week, and decided to try forging a broken back seax knife with it. I can't seem to get my forge to heat it up above 1,600 degrees. It heats to a bright red to cool orange color. I feel like this is too cold, and I may definitely be wrong in that assumption. Or I may be totally overlooking a quality of this steel, as I have never worked with it. Regardless, I am still curious as to how I can get my forge to heat metal more efficiently, and at higher temperatures. Here are some things I have tried. -Covering the back opening of the forge with a layer of insulation, and firebrick. This heat the metal more evenly, as opposed to focusing all the heat directly below the burner, but didn't seem to bring the temperature of my leaf spring up very substantially. -Increasing the PSI. I have toyed with raising the pressure, which heated my material faster, but caused my tank to start icing up and losing pressure. -Testing different amounts of airflow at the intake. I have to admit I have no idea what affect this has on my forge, I have tried many different airflows, but haven't noticed a huge difference, other than the fire seems to "breathe" better with more airflow (fairly obvious). -Being patient. I've tried my hardest to just give it time, but it seems to just reach a certain temperature and just plateau. -Adjusting the height of the burner in the forge. I have read about adjusting the height of the burner, but the design only allows me about a half inch of adjustment, so I am just looking for any suggestions as to better insulate, change my burner characteristics, or anything basic that I have overlooked in my unfamiliarity with blacksmithing as a whole. Thank you all for any responses.
  5. Hey there, I'm new here. Like many others, I too bought an anvil and need help identifying it. It may (or may not) have a little bit of history in it that could be interesting (or not). I am located in Germany and the anvil i bought is definitely British. The shape is a classic "london pattern", just like a Brooks with a relatively thick heel. I'm pretty sure it's cast steel since the only hole is from the bottom straight up and the ring is fairly high pitch and long lasting. The only markings i could find are stamped on the opposite side of where you would normally expect the makers mark. They read as follows: RH 1 1/4 cwt 1945 -> So far I found out that the cwt is the weight (around 63.5kg) and 1945 is the manufacture date. The broad arrow denotes it was owned by the British military. No idea what RH means. I could not find a manufacturer with those initials. Maybe it means Royal Hussars but no idea if those even used anvils; and then the question of who manufactured it would remain. Would be interesting to find out where it was made, who made it and how it ended up here, especially because of the manufacturing date.
  6. Hey guys! Found this anvil here in São Paulo, Brazil and need help identifying it. I know it weights around 200 Kg and that's all... Can you help me?
  7. Hey again! It's been a long time since I've been on here. I posted a while ago asking for help with a brake drum forge that wasn't getting hot enough. Or I wasn't using right. I got a lot of good help and advice, but I quickly learned it wasn't quite built right, so of course I go on a hiatus. Now with all this time on my hands due to Covid-19, I went out and started building a shop with a chimney so I could stop adding smoke damage to the porch roof. I disassembled the old forge and grabbed a 55 gallon barrel. I cut a door out of it, a chimney hole in the top and a big hole in the bottom. I set the brake drum into the hole on the inside. One of the things I learned is that I needed a grate in my tuyere pipe to help keep it clear (Who woulda thunk?) So I made one out of two 1 1/2" x 2" strips of steel "slotted" together to make a tall "X" that I just slid into the pipe. So, I went out today and lit it up, and started working on a simple J-hook. Not long into it though, I needed to completely reset the fire to get it hot again. I had to do this many times. It took me 2 1/2 hours to make half of a J-hook out of 3/8" x 3/8" stock. I might not be doing it right, I might need to adjust it, but I'm done messing with the bottom blast design. So I am thinking about drilling a hole in the side of the barrel and just shoving a pipe in to make a side blast forge. Would that work better? The way I see it is then the pipe isn't really getting clogged, because it isn't moving down into the airflow. So with this, is it better to have the pipe blowing directly into the fire, or is it better to off-set it to circle the air around the fire? Also, here are pictures of it. I need to make a proper bracket for the blower still. Also, the bottom wall of the barrel is 6" tall. Is that perhaps too tall? I can get more pictures if it would help. Thank you guys so much for your help! Em... Apparently it's not uploading the photos on the phone, I'll have to get on the computer.
  8. Hey all! I just made an account in hopes to learn more from everyone here and to share/HOPEFULLY get a real estimated Production date on my anvil. It is 230 pounds J. R. Lindsay Pittsburgh with a Number 1 stamped on the left side of the foot. It’s measurements are 12.5 inches tall, 5 inches wide, and 29.25 inches long. I believe the Pritchett hole is 1/2 and the hardy is 1 1/4 It has a 3/4 inch steel face and appears to be forged by hand due to hammer blows throughout the sides, heel and horn. The horn is also crooked. Any information would be greatly appreciated! Baker EDIT: VOLUME WARNING FOR VIDEO. SHE RINGS LIKE A CHURCH BELL IMG_2138.MP4
  9. Hey guys! I've posted and talk about a propane tank enclosed forge me and my dad are building, but now I have some questions about our old brake drum forge we built maybe 4 years ago. It's pretty open, (Check pics) though it holds a decent enough amount of coal. But the problem is that I'm not getting enough heat. It take a long time to heat up the steel, and it's hard to heat up even just a rail road spike to bright orange. So... What can I improve on this forge to fix this? We only have the one pipe at the bottom of the forge for airflow with a little door at the bottom to let out xxxx, and I am using a little electric squirrel cage blower as a bellows. I think it might be possible that the air is hitting the metal, so it cools it off rather then just blowing the fire. I also am getting a lot of small coke and small clinkers down the pipe, but I think just welding a grate over it would fix it. What do you think? What would help? Do I need more airflow, and the airflow spread out more rather then just the one spot? Also, we don't have an anvil but we do have this big 150-200 lb. steel block that's perfect, it just doesn't have a horn. Though, I'm thinking I can just turn a cone on the lathe out of 3"-4" steel bar and weld it on. Would that work do you think?
  10. I purchased an atlas prototype v4 forge a few months back and no matter what I do, I cannot seem to get this thing to heat up to a welding heat. If I block it up too much with fire brick, the burner sputters, if I leave it open enough for a consistent flame, I reach an orange heat at best. This is the second burner they sent me after the first one would not consistently keep a flame and would constantly fail sending a flame out of the pressure reader thing. Does Atlas make bad forges and I was dumb enough to buy one? or am I likely doing something wrong? I run the burner off a typical 20lb propane tank.
  11. Hello everyone out there. I have been looking around this site on and off for a while now. I am relatively new to forging and trying to get a forge up and going. I tried a coffee can forge with a Walmart special propane torch. It does not get hot enough to even get the metal workable. So I have decided to make a coal forge out of a old propane grill. I have been seeing a lot about JABOD forges and I am thinking that is the way I wan to go. What should I know about making one. And any other suggestions or tips I should know. Any help is greatly appreciative. I am mainly looking to make knives. May move up to bigger stuff later.
  12. Hi there everyone, just kicking off with the blacksmithing trade hoping to get into it. Slowly collecting tools, made a coal forge the other day. Luckily I picked up this anvil for $150 which has some major damage. Not too sure on how to restore the hardy holes. No idea what's going on with the rivet either. I've been told from about hard facing with a welder and also milling, forming lump of steel to weld on the break. Not too sure yet. From tip of horn to break 650mm Anvil face width 150mm Height 350mm Horn length 300mm Any advice, tips, tricks and info would be greatly much appreciated. Cheers guys.
  13. Jizzle69


    I first tested my burner with a low pressure bbq regulator and was having the exact problem people said I would whistling, chirping, and back burning in the tube. Got my high pressure regulator today got it all hooked up and I'm having trouble lighting it. I got it lit a couple times but at a way low pressure and with the the shut off valve cracked barely once again since it was barely open having same issue along with it got fairly hot not red or anything but I burnt my finger. I'm confused and trying to not get discouraged but its frustrating
  14. I'm a young kid (15) looking to get into blacksmithing. The issue is that I lack the instruction to do so, as well as a forge. I'm wondering if there is anyone in South West Washington or the greater Pacific Northwest that would be willing to help me out. I have most of the materials to fabricate a forge using a 20 lb propane bottle following Wayne Coe's instructions (excluding the burner (requires welding) and burner parts), however, I'm severely limited by my tools, lacking both a welder, and a plasma cutter as well as a shop of any sort. If there is any way in which someone would be willing to lend me a hand and help me fabricate a forge (I will of course pay for materials costs as well as time) that would be greatly appreciated. General advice or apprenticing of any shape is of course more than welcome. I'm happy to pay in cash or barter (my families owns a creamery) for any services that could be provided, whichever is preferable. My apologies if this is in the wrong directory I'm still very new to the forum. Thanks, -Will
  15. Hey guys, first time poster, sorry if in wrong category. I've bough this small anvil for 15€ but I can't figure out how to secure it as it has a spike on the base. I've done some research and found nothing like it, any help will be appreciated.
  16. Hey everyone my name is Dallas. I am from Southeast Texas and no I am not named after the Cowboys. Yesterday I built my first forge out of an old grill a roommate said I could have and some bricks from Home Depot. I have been wanting do do this craft for several years and didn’t know how or where to start. So I thought the best way to learn is to fail so don’t hold back when correcting me. Thank you for your time and I look forward to any input so that I can forge properly and safely. Thanks Dallas
  17. So, I bought a forge. It's lined with ceramic wool and no refractory (I believe) is that okay?
  18. Believe it or not, my very first attempt at hand making some Damascus didn’t work perfectly. So here I am looking for someone to help me through this! So I’m using a single burner propane forge, one side is blocked off by a half inch thick metal plate and the other side is slightly contained by some red house bricks. (I’m wondering if that’s my problem over all) 1.) Had a buddy weld together together a few pieces of 1080 and 15n20 2.) Got things to roughly 1600 degrees, and applied 20 mule team borax to the sides with the edges. 3.) Back in the forge to what I would honestly call roughly 2000 degrees. (In the daylight of sunset, the forge and stock were almost entirely white) 4.) Over to the anvil with some relatively firm blows. Turning it over a time or two. Didn’t really know what to expect or feel particularly sure of anything going on, so I repeated the process without borax. After I ground one of the edges, it’s basically entirely delaminated. Hoestly delamination is probably the wrong phrase because it was never laminated in the first place. If anyone had any quick tips or fixes it would be awesome! I know how much knowledge is on here and I’ve learned a ton from all of you already!
  19. Hi all! I am just getting into the trade. Like, I have had a couple basic lessons and have made a bad leaf and helped make a bottle opener. Really new! I am working on setting up a little shop. I have an ASO (8 inch rail section that I need to mount) and a small forge (Whitlox Mini-Forge), a few hammers and one set of tongs. If there are any smiths that I can meet in the Beaverton/Forest Grove area, I would love to make some connections. I am in the mode of consuming as much media and watching blacksmithing as much as I can while I get a space setup to actually forge in. Looking forward to learning from and hopefully meeting some of you! **also, looking for an anvil.....**
  20. Alright im new to forges ive only bult one, it was a solid fuel forge made from plaster and sand, to say the least it was cool and fun but i want more power. I want to create a propane furnace that can either be slightly mobile or permanent in my back yard. I have a cement platform and the space to do it and my budget its around 300$. From what ive read the best way to do it is with a combination of kalewool or some insalating fiber and refractory cement, my question is can you guys post pictures of your forges and or give me a run down on how you did yours. My trouble is shaping the outside and inners because you have to line the wool with the cement, also how effectives firebrick in terms of durability and insulation
  21. so apologies if there is a specific place to post this sort of question but i'm genuinely stumped on this anvil logo. i know that the shape is a double horned south german pattern anvil made in the year 1939.. but i cant quite make out the writing. for now these are the best photo's i have, but will post more as soon as i have them! any help in finding out anything about this would be immensely appreciated!
  22. Hello, I am starting to blacksmith. I currently have a hole in the ground that I want to do a side-blast coke forge with. I need coke though. I don't know where I can get some locally here in Utah. I saw that there is a place down in Spanish Fork. Christensen Brothers. They are a little far from me as I live in Tooele. I was wondering if any of you have found suppliers in Salt Lake City or thereabouts. Any help would be much appreciated.
  23. Hi all. I'm new around here, and just starting to get into smithing as a hobby. I've got an old length of railroad metal I've been using but recently found this listing on EBay and was wondering if it's worth going for. I plan to be mostly working small things (simple jewelry, small knives) if that helps.
  24. I notice the attempt to rapair on the square side, it shows somebody welded a square piece of steel probably to replace a broken end and a missing hardy hole.
  25. HI there im a second year welding student and my teacher is having me go out and ask blacksmiths some questions. 1. Whats your name and where are you from? 2. How did you become a Blacksmith? 3. What do you like most about your job? 4. What do you dislike about your job? 5. What do you do on a day to day basis at work? 6. Do you have any welding background? 7. What advice would you give to a beginner welder? thank you!
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