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I Forge Iron

rdennett

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About rdennett

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    Austin, TX

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  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Biography
    Occasional amateur blacksmith
  • Interests
    blacksmithing
  • Occupation
    Computer Programmer

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  1. A lot of articles on blacksmithing emphasize the importance of rebound when determining the quality of an anvil. I believe the idea is that this somehow makes the metal move more easily by resisting the force of the hammer blow from the underside. Please correct me if I am wrong about that. Given that we are hitting hot metal which has next to no rebound, I am not quite sure I see the point. It seems to me that mass under the hammer and securely fastening makes more difference. That said, I am not a professional smith and have only a tiny fraction of the experience of some of those here. Can you please enlighten me? Thanks, Rob
  2. Black powder. To be clear, this isn't a project I am currently working on, it's just something on my bucket list. I am familiar with The Colonial Gunsmith, first seeing it in the early 80s, and where I first fell in love with blacksmithing. I finally got ahold of Foxfire 5, but haven't heard about that issue of Anvil. My question is how you would handle welding a barrel without a striker or power hammer. Does that article cover it? By the way, I would never get my face near a barrel that hadn't been proofed. Thanks, Rob
  3. If you had to make a forge welded tube a la Wallace Gusler for a rifle barrel, by yourself and without a power hammer, how would you do it? The bit I can't figure out is how to insert a mandrel and make a weld without losing the heat. Also, does anyone know if there is a scarf and what it looks like? Thanks, Rob
  4. I was looking up prices for new 1018 5/8" square bar from some local suppliers and was shocked to see the price was around $3/lb.. Is this typical? Thanks, Rob
  5. What kind of breaker did you need? Also, if time is not an issue, can you weld thicker steel with multiple passes with one of these on 110v? Thx
  6. I would use 220 if I could, but you're missing the point. I want to know what one of these 110 stick (NOT fcaw) machines CAN do. I see that my link to Amazon is gone, but for those who are trying to figure out what I have in mind, think Everlast 140ST. That one is 110 only, iirc, and comes with TIG accessories, but there are similar dual voltage welders which just come with a stinger and not a TIG torch.
  7. Great success! I found rice coal and only used one dryer. Unfortunately, now it’s a little too hot... Got to put a choke on it. thanks for all your help!
  8. Sorry, that’s IGBT. Think [Commercial link removed] I have also been setting up a forge at a local maker space, and 110v is all I have to work with there. Thanks, Rob
  9. While I have a Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 welder, I don’t have anywhere to plug it in. Lately, I have been toying with the idea of purchasing one of those little IBGT dual voltage stick welders with an eye to running it off 110V. I am not a professional welder (obviously), but I would occasionally like to lay down a bead or two. If I use 2# of rod in a year, I would be amazed. That said, what can I do with one of these, particularly off a 20A breaker? Can I use multiple passes to weld even thicker bits of steel albeit at a much slower rate? What if I upgrade to a 30A breaker? Thanks, Rob
  10. I have read that thread a few times, albeit not lately. I mostly based my design off of Torbjorn Ahmen's:. I will have another look at the JABOD thread. Thx, Rob
  11. The pipe is 1-1/4 black pipe I think, a bit bigger than a quarter. I picked it up from the junkyard. Thx It’s got about two inches of coal on it, but I will add some more bricks and get it a little higher. thx
  12. Indeed I did try to burn the steel. A good orange as you can see from the pics is all I could get.
  13. I originally used only one hair dryer. The blast seemed far too anemic, hence the second one.
  14. This is the Tractor Supply stuff. Coal pieces are about the size of a charcoal briquette. Too coarse? Thanks, Rob
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