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About rdennett

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    Junior Member

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  • Location
    Austin, TX


  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Biography
    Occasional amateur blacksmith
  • Interests
  • Occupation
    Computer Programmer

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  1. What kind of breaker did you need? Also, if time is not an issue, can you weld thicker steel with multiple passes with one of these on 110v? Thx
  2. I would use 220 if I could, but you're missing the point. I want to know what one of these 110 stick (NOT fcaw) machines CAN do. I see that my link to Amazon is gone, but for those who are trying to figure out what I have in mind, think Everlast 140ST. That one is 110 only, iirc, and comes with TIG accessories, but there are similar dual voltage welders which just come with a stinger and not a TIG torch.
  3. Great success! I found rice coal and only used one dryer. Unfortunately, now it’s a little too hot... Got to put a choke on it. thanks for all your help!
  4. Sorry, that’s IGBT. Think [Commercial link removed] I have also been setting up a forge at a local maker space, and 110v is all I have to work with there. Thanks, Rob
  5. While I have a Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 welder, I don’t have anywhere to plug it in. Lately, I have been toying with the idea of purchasing one of those little IBGT dual voltage stick welders with an eye to running it off 110V. I am not a professional welder (obviously), but I would occasionally like to lay down a bead or two. If I use 2# of rod in a year, I would be amazed. That said, what can I do with one of these, particularly off a 20A breaker? Can I use multiple passes to weld even thicker bits of steel albeit at a much slower rate? What if I upgrade to a 30A breaker? Thanks, Rob
  6. I have read that thread a few times, albeit not lately. I mostly based my design off of Torbjorn Ahmen's:. I will have another look at the JABOD thread. Thx, Rob
  7. The pipe is 1-1/4 black pipe I think, a bit bigger than a quarter. I picked it up from the junkyard. Thx It’s got about two inches of coal on it, but I will add some more bricks and get it a little higher. thx
  8. Indeed I did try to burn the steel. A good orange as you can see from the pics is all I could get.
  9. I originally used only one hair dryer. The blast seemed far too anemic, hence the second one.
  10. This is the Tractor Supply stuff. Coal pieces are about the size of a charcoal briquette. Too coarse? Thanks, Rob
  11. I am finishing up a JABOD forge using anthracite in lieu of coke (can't beat the price and coke and bituminous are hard to come by), but while I can easily get steel to a good orange heat, that's as hot as it seems to get. On the plus side, I don't burn up the steel, but I do want to be able to forge weld in this thing. What variables are responsible for achieving welding heat in general? I am using 2 hair driers in a Y plumbing fitting for air blast, the cavity where the coal goes is about 6" deep (15 cm) and it's bottom is about 2" below the tuyere. The coal is piled up about 2-3" above the point where it's level with the top of the sand. Is the air too weak, the fire too shallow, the coal too coarse or what? Thanks, Rob Pic 3 hair driers pic 5 tuyere pipe with quarter for scale last pics show about as hot as it’ll get material is 5/8” mild steel
  12. I discovered that Tractor Supply only stocks it seasonally and the local Centaur has closed down. Is there a more consistent source of coal or coke around here? I currently have some bituminous coal and some coke (~25 lbs. each), but I am trying to set up a forge at a Makerspace and don't want to tap into my own supplies if I don't have to. I used to see this stuff advertised on Craigslist a lot, but not lately. I will go to charcoal if I have to, but I would rather use coal. Propane isn't in the budget (not the fuel, but the forge). Thanks, Rob
  13. For solid fuel forge, either coal, charcoal or wood, how do you tell where the boundaries are for the oxidizing, neutral and reducing layers? I assume that they move around as you work or add fuel or adjust the air blast, but is there a test to check at any given time? Thanks, Rob
  14. I got a hair drier (one where I could turn the coils off) for $4 at Goodwill and a lamp dimmer from Lowes (like This) for about $12 and it works great. My tuyere fits the dryer nozzle and I use duct tape to seal it. Rob
  15. I forged a small striker steel for a friend and I had a great deal of trouble getting it to make any sort of sparks. It was forged from an old file I bought at a flea market, then quenched in water and tempered to dark blue. The flint certainly made marks on the striking face, but I only got a spark twice out of about a hundred tries. I tried striking a spark both before and after tempering it. I had made one for my self a long time ago and it works fine but this was pretty much a bust. Thanks for any help, Rob