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Gas Forges

  1. When I watch instruction videos on how to create your own forge more than a few point out that the burner shouldn't be mounted exactly vertically, but rather at an angle at around 2 o'clock. But when I see professional forges for sale the burners are mounted exactly vertical (or at least on the vast majority, if not all I've seen). The DIY folks argues that attaching them at an angle helps circulate the heat, which - at least to me - makes a certain kind of sense. But then why are they attached vertically on the professional equipment? Does it make no practical difference? Regards.

    • 7 replies
    • 1.5k views
  2. Started by Different kinds,

    I might make a forge out of an old popcorn holder(see picture) and I am wondering if I would lose too much heat if I took out the bottom of the can so that I could stick longer pieces of metal in it. I will put ceramic wool and maybe refractory cement.

    • 14 replies
    • 2.3k views
  3. Started by whitewill1412,

    In just about every video I watch, the steel is very yellow when taken out of the forge. Mine is never that color. It is more orange. Am I doing something wrong? Is it my forge? Does the color just look different in a video? I'm using a propane forge

    • 59 replies
    • 6.2k views
  4. Started by Absinthe,

    This is a 2 burner gas forge from vevor. They include a 30psi regulator on a rubber hose to connect from a propane tank to a central yoke that feeds the two burners all directly vertical to the forge body itself. When I place the tank a reasonable distance from the forge it does stretch the hose laterally away from it, but I always feel like it is getting heated, especially since baffling the back and front... The dragon tends to breathe in its general direction. I do have a ceiling but would need a longer hose in order to hang it up. If I buy a longer hose does the steel braided one offer any benefit? I am outside so I have considered it as a deterrent to cri…

    • 2 replies
    • 1.4k views
  5. I have a Vevor 2 burner propane forge. At this point the choke sleeves, and burner pipes no longer have paint on them, after using it a couple hours I can see flames in the choke vent holes, and the pipes themselves glow dark red. I assume neither of these things is a positive. At one point only one pipe was red, I tried turning off the ball valve and it eventually cooled off then I turned it back on. Suggestions? I would prefer not to die. Just for clarification, this doesn't happen immediately, but after I have been using it a while. Probably nature's way to telling me that I have been working at it too long and it is time to go inside. But I am not su…

    • 56 replies
    • 11.8k views
  6. If I add this extra layer of insulation in the bottom of the forge will it be good or bad?

    • 5 replies
    • 1.3k views
  7. Started by Toby_H,

    Hi all, I’ve recently begun black smithing as a project for school and have been using the “One Brick Forge” method outlined in Wayne Godard’s book. It really isn’t cutting it for me and I’ve tried several ways to improve it so I’ve decided I’m going to buy a forge online. I’m wondering if anyone has suggestions for a good propane forge for medium sized knife making that’s sub $150. Thanks!

    • 12 replies
    • 4k views
  8. Started by ymber,

    I'm getting around to building a new forge and I've got a notion to build one that can hold precise target temperatures so it can double as a heat treat furnace. I want to use a PID controller with an S type thermocouple on the input and a modulating valve on the gas line connected to the controller output. I'm not very familiar with PID controllers but looking at most of the existing solutions for this, people are using solenoid valves connected to the controller through a solid state relay. I don't like that solution because it doesn't allow for throttling the gas, only turning it off completely so oscillation around the target temperature is quite high and you have to …

    • 13 replies
    • 3.8k views
  9. Started by Donnie,

    How long will a 20lb. propane bottle run a small forge. By small, I mean something that would be no larger than to heat 3/8" stock or smaller. I've only used coal/coke. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

    • 15 replies
    • 10.4k views
  10. Started by TheCowBear,

    I've been attempting to blacksmith for a couple years now and this is the forge I started with: It had these burners: I have since built this: After reading a decent portion of the burners 101 topic I think the burners I have will work ok for the new forge, but I was wondering 1) how to make them more efficient and 2) the best way to mount them without having access to a welder? I haven't found much on the forum about physically mounting burners just about angles and depths, but not ways to attach them. That might be a failure of my search skills, so sorry if that is the case and this specific question has been answered a billion times. …

  11. Started by eseemann,

    So according to the Amazon page for this "Double Flame Jet Turbo Torch Head High Output 17060 BTU+propane MAPP MAP Pro Handheld Torch", Amazon number B0BQLMKFR3 either is someone just using ChatGPT to make a random description OR this is from Krypton. DOUBLE FLAMES: Powerful Double Turbo Flame, heat up to 2372°F (1300°C).High output of 17,060 BTU/hr, consumption rate is 367.6 g/hr (5.0 KW), powerful enough to weld large diameter copper pipes. 17K BTU assumes that it is about 8.5K BTU per pipe. That is more than a Bernzomatic TS8000 from a one pound propane can. I have to wonder if you can safely get that much gas out of a one pound can using hand held torch. 1 Li…

  12. So im planning on building a forge. Tye dimensions imma be running are 24 in long with 22 in roughly inside work area 8x8 inside dimension, so 12 in overall hight and width running 2 in insulation. Wondering what i should run for burner sizes, 1/2 or 3/4 inch, running 3 burners spaced even through the square box im makeing custon may go 10 inches wide too just a possibility due to the pokers i make can get wide at times if i run out of heat wile pounding. And also was thinking bout doing 3/8 or half inch plate for the outer shell of the forge itself would that be heavy enough with the insulation. thanks for listening to my jabber jaw

  13. Started by emmafvsmith,

    I recently out together a forge from burncraft, who make nice quality burners but the insulation was a bit lacking inside the forge. I added satanite on top of the ceramic wool lining, but am concerned that the top of the forge seems to be getting very hot, especially where the burner meets the forge body. As you can see in one of the pictures, it's even begun glowing red. Inside the burner is flush with the ceramic wool. Do I need to add another layer of insulation to the top of the forge? I've read that the burner should perhaps be set back a bit into the insulation to help prevent this exact problem, but wanted to ask advice first.

    • 17 replies
    • 3.7k views
  14. Started by Swamp_Rat,

    First time poster here. I’ve been forging for about 2 years now and I feel the thing that’s holding me back a lot is not being able to get to forge welding temps. my current forge is a 20lb propane tank made slightly oblong with 2” of ceramic fiber covered with kast o lite 30 and brushed with itc-100 and has a Mr volcano burner in it. I do have fire brick doors on the front and back and 3 bricks to build up the floor and take up space. I used to run at about 5 psi but increased to 8 and noticed a big change in heat. I’ve went to 12-14 to try and forge weld but no luck! Any help or advice would be so greatly appreciated, I work in the metal fab industry so m…

  15. Started by Mikey98118,

    To the guy who asked for answers to his questions about his forge, today: I was busy replying to your questions when I lost your email to me. Please try again.

  16. Started by Adair,

    Hello all, A friend is trying to set up a workstation for his shop program. He was given this forge and a small forge chamber lined with refractory brick. He asked me for help getting this burner assembly set up. I've built a few naturally aspirated burners, but I don't know where to start with this thing. The orifice is machined integrally with the threaded brass insert at the supply end of the burner, so there is currently no adjustment of that component. Currently, when set up with a regulator at 20 psi there is a large amount of unburned fuel (blue flame). I intend to add a variable pressure regulator. It has an 1/8" gas line and ball valve. T…

    • 18 replies
    • 2.1k views
  17. Started by Zacl79,

    Hi all, long time lurker/reader of this forum. Some great information in here. It's been invaluable in my forge design/build. I have finally completed my forge build, dried it and fired it up to heat some steel. Inner forge dimensions 7"Wx16"Lx4.5"H - 500cub inches. Floor and roof have 3" kaowool (rigidized) and then 1/4" refractory cement. Sides are 2.5" insulation bricks. Have two 1" venturi burners, 0.03" mig tips. 12" burner tubes. Flare (Stainless) are set back into the roof by around 1". I dont known what pressure I'm running at, but it gets hot and fast.I had this up to around 1100C in about 4mins. And that was measuring with thermocou…

    • 10 replies
    • 1.8k views
  18. I'm building a venturi burner using this guy's design here, and I've been able to do everything else in the design except drill in the jet hole that blows the propane into the venturi itself. His design calls for a #57 drill bit, which I can't seem to find any in stock at Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Sears, or even Lowe's (all of the tool shops within easy driving distance of me). When I looked up the thickness of a #57 drill bit (to see if maybe I could just use something close in size) I found that a #57 drill bit is 0.043" and the smallest bit that I have is 1/16, or 0.0625" Do you think .0195" is a big enough difference to affect the venturi's operation? I can maybe s…

    • 29 replies
    • 18.9k views
  19. I’m working on building my first forge. I am building it out of 1/16” plate steel with 2” of kawool and 1” of Kast-O-Lite 30 Refractory. Inside diameter of the forge will be 8”x12”x6”(WxLxH). I have done a lot of research on burners and am thinking of going with a ribbon burner. With that being said, I think one of the Greatest debates I seen is Venturi or Ribbon burners? Can someone help me with the pros and cons of both other than fuel efficiency? Is one better than the other for heat treating? Do you get better temps with one versus the other? What is the downside to them other than the power connections? I have the means and methods to build either…

    • 9 replies
    • 8.2k views
  20. Started by FloridaMan Forge,

    I spent yesterday, and the first part of today, forging with no issues. Now I can't get her to roar no matter how much psi I put to her. I increased/decreased air, moved the nozzle closer/further, & hooked up a full tank, but nothing works. Any ideas? 20231226_114852.mp4

    • 12 replies
    • 2k views
  21. Started by hbmasa,

    This is my vevor forge gas intake. I had it suggested the forge needs more gas. If i drill this input hole bigger will it have the same effect as getting a bigger mig tips? I know, go slow.

  22. Started by Campbell Iron,

    Hi, I'm new here, but not to forging. I need to acquire a new hi pressure LP regulator for my gas forge because the old one developed a leak after a propane distributor overfilled my tank. I notice that everyone suggests a 0-30psi or 0-60psi regulator but the ones of those that I have purchased always leak and It appears to be difficult to find a regulator locally. I found a Tractor Supply in the vicinity that has a 0-20psi one... will that work sufficiently? If not, can someone supply me with a link to a listing for a higher quality regulator and/or hose than you may find on Amazon. If Amazon is the best option, please say so. The welding ga…

    • 4 replies
    • 1.5k views
  23. Started by Hefty,

    Hi All, Can anyone in the US confirm that Mr Volcano burners are still available for individual purchase? I'm looking on the US and AUS Amazon sites and I can't find the burners by themselves. They aren't even offered on the Mr Volcano website?! I'm still seeing people refer to them as a great deal at the current price (and I'd love to drop a Christmas hint to the wife) but I can't find them anywhere! Any help greatly appreciated! Jono.

    • 16 replies
    • 1.9k views
  24. Started by Dixon,

    Hello folks, I've always been a coal guy and have never used any sort of gas forge. However, I picked one up at a yard sale for next to nothing several years ago and it's been in storage ever since. After many years without a shop, I finally have a space for it so I've started trying to figure the thing out. I haven't put much time into researching it yet but a quick search turned up nothing. I'm hoping someone here might be familiar with it. Any opinions, advice, and/or information are much appreciated. It's marked "Art Anderson's Pioneer Iron Works, Lolo, MT". The tag shows a phone number which is no longer in service, and I haven't found any other number associate…

  25. Started by Pigsticker,

    Hello all and happy thanksgiving.This is specific question. Im filling in a new double burner forge (hexagon) w kastolite and metrakote. I got 60% done last weekband set the forge in a cooler w 2" of water. I went to check on it yesterday and kinda tried to lift it up by the inside of the forge and i could feel the kaowool had increased in size thicker than it was after rigidizing. Is this reswell normal. In about 3 days ill take forge outta cooler and lay new mixed kastolite upon arrival. 1) Should i remove the forge from humidity box before i recoat or should i just go on top of the wettest kastolite i can keep it inside the forge already. 2) My last question is is the …

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