Olorin

I see, understandable! Thank you for your help.

I didn’t test it outside the forge, something I regretted after putting it in; I had meant to but I got excited to finally be done. I was looking at a variable speed motor on Amazon that might do the trick, what’s the optimal flow rate for a ribbon burner forge of this size would you say? For air and gas flow

Latticino it is not fully cured, I was unaware that would cause a problem. I have a section to choke down the air flow a little more and I have a better regulator to attach to the forge, so I’ll try that when I get a chance. Thanks and by not fully cured I mean heat cured just to be clear! If I get a blower with a variable speed to reduce the amount of air going through and reduce the PSI of the propane do you think that would help?

Ok, no need to be rude about it I’m still new to making forges. I’ll keep that in mind and start again.

I know there are forums on popping forged already, but none of them I’ve seen exactly describe the issue I’m having. My forge is a ribbon burner 2”x4”x14 1/4”, an interior size of about 3”x18”; when using the forge it lights up and runs beautifully, but after a minute or two it pops loudly and the flame goes out. I can’t think of any reasons it would be doing this, there are no cracks in the burner, the pipes are brand new, the refractory is solid. Does anyone have any ideas? I’ll post the video if it will let me. IMG_2207.mov

What is the best 'clay' to use when making a hamon? I am using a high temp. furnace cement putty, but it makes a lot of bubbles when it cures and gives my blades an inconsistent pattern. I follow the directions on the tub of clay to apply, but it still does some weird stuff (cooling in random places where the clay comes off making a spotty pattern that doesn't look very good). Anyone know of something better to use? Thanks!

Huh, I was kind of on the fence on wether or not rr spikes were high carbon or not, I didn't think so but I had heard otherwise from other people. Also good to know!

Thanks for all the tips! My questions have been answered! I'll keep an eye out for W1/2 and the 10x series or low Mn/Cr steel. And I'll be sure to post in a more specific area next time, I didn't realize the term "shallow hardening" wasn't universal with blacksmiths, that's good to know!

Any chance anyone has a list of shallow hardening steels? I can't seem to find one online. Are there any others besides the 10X series of metal? Thanks!

OK, I got a larger tank so I could quench potentially larger projects such as swords (if and when I get to that and I actually have a larger short sword in progress that will require a larger tank than what I had previously available), I typically have access to a decent amount of oil so it was more financially feasible to just use that than to buy more, I am aware of the dangerous of toxic chemicals and take precautions in the moment to deal with them (though they aren't perfect they work for what I do). And sorry for thanking you for advice, I tend to be polite to people when talking to them online, but I'll make sure not to thank you anymore. I will no longer be monitoring this post, I learned what I needed. Çiao!

Fair enough. I'll invest in a good respirator. Thanks!

True, but I am in a well ventilated area (outside) and keep my head back and away from the smoke. I should be fine, and it is easier and cheaper to fill a 100 lb. propane tank with motor oil than Parks 50! Thank you for your concern!

JHCC, yeah it is rather curvy, but I manage to get it unbent and straight. Thomas powers, what steel would you recommend for doing a Hamon?

Our school used motor oil for quenching, but it very well may be. And I have heard of many people using motor oil as a quenchant.

Sounds good! I've got an old 100 lb propane tank that I've cleaned out and a few gallons of old motor oil that I was gonna fill it with for longer stuff. I'll cut the top off it tomorrow and get it set up. Thanks for the tips!