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I Forge Iron


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About Olorin

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Prince George, British Columbia, Canada
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, chasing and repousse, writing, drawing, designing, quantum mechanics, theoretical physics, martial arts/ weaponry.

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  1. What is the best 'clay' to use when making a hamon? I am using a high temp. furnace cement putty, but it makes a lot of bubbles when it cures and gives my blades an inconsistent pattern. I follow the directions on the tub of clay to apply, but it still does some weird stuff (cooling in random places where the clay comes off making a spotty pattern that doesn't look very good). Anyone know of something better to use? Thanks!
  2. Huh, I was kind of on the fence on wether or not rr spikes were high carbon or not, I didn't think so but I had heard otherwise from other people. Also good to know!
  3. Thanks for all the tips! My questions have been answered! I'll keep an eye out for W1/2 and the 10x series or low Mn/Cr steel. And I'll be sure to post in a more specific area next time, I didn't realize the term "shallow hardening" wasn't universal with blacksmiths, that's good to know!
  4. Any chance anyone has a list of shallow hardening steels? I can't seem to find one online. Are there any others besides the 10X series of metal? Thanks!
  5. OK, I got a larger tank so I could quench potentially larger projects such as swords (if and when I get to that and I actually have a larger short sword in progress that will require a larger tank than what I had previously available), I typically have access to a decent amount of oil so it was more financially feasible to just use that than to buy more, I am aware of the dangerous of toxic chemicals and take precautions in the moment to deal with them (though they aren't perfect they work for what I do). And sorry for thanking you for advice, I tend to be polite to people when talking to them
  6. Fair enough. I'll invest in a good respirator. Thanks!
  7. True, but I am in a well ventilated area (outside) and keep my head back and away from the smoke. I should be fine, and it is easier and cheaper to fill a 100 lb. propane tank with motor oil than Parks 50! Thank you for your concern!
  8. JHCC, yeah it is rather curvy, but I manage to get it unbent and straight. Thomas powers, what steel would you recommend for doing a Hamon?
  9. Our school used motor oil for quenching, but it very well may be. And I have heard of many people using motor oil as a quenchant.
  10. Sounds good! I've got an old 100 lb propane tank that I've cleaned out and a few gallons of old motor oil that I was gonna fill it with for longer stuff. I'll cut the top off it tomorrow and get it set up. Thanks for the tips!
  11. Bob Brandl, oh I never thought about angle iron, I'll have to try it. I've done a few practice blades and most of them have cracked or broken, but that's more likely than not because I am quenching with water. I am in the process of getting an oil quench tank as well but I'm not quite there yet. Also, the steel is a piece of railroad tie, any good for a water quench? One of these if my description was a little vague.
  12. Steve thanks that helps a lot! Buzzkill, yeah I was thinking about the three pin method. I'll have to put something together for next time. Thanks!
  13. I have a knife I have been working on and just did a clay heat treat, but alas the blade warped and I didn't notice before it cooled down too much for me to do anything about it. I then heated it to critical temp. or just below it and left it to cool in the forge. Does anyone have any tips for softening a differentially hardened blade so that it won't crack in the next quench? A simple list of steps on annealing and normalizing to get the best result would be appreciated. PS. I used the search function on the forum but couldn't find anything specific. And I searched on Google but d
  14. Olorin


    I apologize. I didn't mean to start anything, debate was not my intention. I was unaware that taking discarded rail road clips was illegal, but I will keep that in mind for future. Although I have never seen anyone come along the tracks to pick up the discarded materials, I will keep that in mind. I believe I am finished with this thread. Thank you for all your help, I appreciate it. (Also, I have only been on this thread a little while and only come on when I have a question that needs answering and don't go much into other topics as my questions are usually rather specific. I was unaware of
  15. Olorin


    I never would have tried quenching it if I had seen cracks all over it, I checked before applying clay to make sure, but I think it may have been the breaking off of the "clay" and cooling at random points on the blade hardening in random spots that caused the structure to lose strength and crack. I could be wrong though, I'm not a metallurgist. I did also make the mistake of thinking the blade had cooled enough to cool it the rest of the way in water (a mistake I will not make again. I just didn't think it through). Frosty: It is true that it would be easier to buy known knife st
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