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seagiant

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  1. Hi, What answer??? LOL! Hi, Thank you! The wood void is only on the surface and not all the way thru, so I used it. It is filled with hard wood putty, so should be fine and has a burl look to me. This knife was NOT clay treated to create an Hamon, but was edge quenched. I use WATCO Danish Oil Finish, and put a coat on a day for about 4 days and lightly rub with #0000 steel wool between coats. Thank you!
  2. Hi, Are you Guys still wearing Covid Masks????????? One would wonder? Thanks for ALL the Feed Back on my Knife! Amazing!
  3. Hi, A Buddy, I owe a big favor to... Asked me for a Kitchen Knife, so got on the Forge this week... This is made from a worn out File. I normalized the blade 3 times to shrink the grain and then quenched in warmed Transmission Oil. Edge quenched, and in finishing the blade etched it in PCB Etchant and then Stone Washed the Blade. You can see the Quench/ Hardening Line, if the light is right. Tempered in my little Oven with a PID at 400 degrees for 2 hours. With my Japanese Hardness Files, came out about 59-60 Rc, which is perfect for me. (opinions vary!) Handles are my Farm Cut, Alabama Red Oak, with a light brown leather dye stain, finished with WATCO Oil Finish. Pinned with Nickel Silver Pins... Still applying Oil Finish, and will for a few days... Will finish up with Johnson's Paste Wax. Already sharpened it and the edge came right up and will shave you, easily... Just thought to show what I have been enjoying with this nice cool weather now in Florida!
  4. Hi, Those are nice, make sure you install it correctly on the Workbench... So you can take advantage on all it has to offer! The Swivel Base is highly desirable!!! My Starrett, use it everyday!
  5. Hi, Thanks, it's for a divorced friend, that has to cook his own meals now. These files are pretty good material to forge, as it is good steel and the right size to completely hand forge on the anvil.
  6. Hi, Another Kitchen Knife, forged from a Nicholson File.
  7. Hi Well, I can get a better flat grind after coming off the 2x72 Grinder... With even the small Disk Grinder I have now. A real 1.5 or 2 HP FWD/REV, VFD REAL Disk Grinder, has to be the Bee's Knees!
  8. seagiant changed their profile photo
  9. Hi, That would not be a job for a lazy person. Real Blacksmithing is hard, hot, nasty work,and at the end of the day. Takes dedication to what you are doing! Thanks for the Vid!
  10. Hi, I bought a set of the Japanese Hardness Test File Sets, and... Was impressed in how well they gave me a better idea on what was going on... After Quenching and Tempering. Allowed me to vary and or experiment with Quenching and then Tempering for a certain steel. Admittedly, I only use simple Carbon Steels.
  11. Hi, Get a piece of chalk after removing rust and rub the sides. Will make the lettering stand out better. Opti Visors also help.
  12. Hi, Well, I guess they do! LOL!
  13. Hi, To the OP, if you get the Mr Volcano Forge, you want to set it up with a "Door" front and back to preserve heat and gas consumption. Hard fire bricks are easy to use and durable. I just built myself a small forge and use this idea and it works great. If you go with a jet orifice the Mr. Volcano Burners for $25 is a no brainer and work fantastic and are adjustable to get the atmosphere you want in the Forge. Here is a pic of my small but big enough for me Forge, I can run it and do with both types of burners.
  14. Hi, Do the Mods allow you to call people Trolls on this Forum? I have never called for any unsafe practices on this Forum that I know of? Mod note, upon review there is no one being called a troll, a comment was only made about trolling actions
  15. Hi, Great job there... Good of you to keep the old machinery going. This is my 1945 3 PH Wellsaw. Looks rough, did not paint it, cause I needed it, however... Did completely rebuild the Gear Box, including replacing a broke Gear. Wellsaw, STILL completely supports this Saw with any parts you need!

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