Gas Forges

I recently purchased a majestic 2 burner general purpose forge. Unfortunately there were no assembly instructions or start up procedures. I have called them numerous times and emailed many times without response. I was wondering if anyone has a copy of the instructions. If so could someone email me a copy. Thanks

Let say i have the burners from a mr volcano 2 forge. Could I use them in the making of a Firebrick forge? Also are the Firebrick constructed forges worth it for a hobbyist and would that be a down grace from the Volcano 2, the body of this forge suffered fatal damage before it got created.

I finally drug out my forge after a move and started beating on metal again. While my son was working a long piece of stock, he dropped it and it broke part the the coating on the refractory. I know I need to fix it, but my question is do I need to pull out all the coating and recoat the wool, or go back over the top of everything and just put enough coating over the damaged area that it is the same thickness as everywhere else? Second question is does it mater if I put a different refractory coating over the top of the existing? I don't think it would matter, but if they don't bond, I could see if flaking off. Thanks for the wisdom in advance.

I started a forge build today. Picked up a helium tank 12" diameter and about 13" long (after I cut the openings). Spent more time trying to get the pink paint off than cutting the openings. I also picked up a bed frame that's made from channel iron that's just wide enough to hold firebricks. I think that will make excellent sliding doors once I get them welded. I have a 3/4 inch Frosty burner that I built almost a decade ago and never used. I'll finally get to see if this will work inside a forge.

Hi, I'm looking into building a forge and at the moment I find the Atlas burners to be pretty economical. Someone sent me pictures of the 30,000 BTU burner they have, which runs at about ~34-35k according to Charles from Atlas Tool and it seems pretty nice for the price point of $35. There is also another burner on the website that has a centrifugal blower attached to it marketed as a 100k burner, over double the price but still cheaper than the parts I've found to build my own. Unfortunately both don't seem to have a lot of information on them. Would like to know anyone's thoughts on these burners!

I'm looking to make a new propane forge, and while I saw brick pile style forge, I would like some advice for the construction and materials. I saw in another thread the Morgan Thermal Ceramics K26 firebricks, and I was wondering if there is a specific size that I should use, as well as the ideal measurements for the forge. I plan on using two Frosty T burners, as I already have them. I live in the US, so I should have access to the same suppliers as most of you do. Any help would be appreciated, I'm currently at a standstill trying to make a good forge for cheap enough I can afford it.

Hi all, I'm going to keep this really brief as I know this subject has been covered to death I’m building a gas forge, the internal dims of the chamber will be 6” x 6” x 13.5” long. Opening 4” x 4” It will be lined with insulating firebrick within a 4mm steel box I intend on using a single Amal burner fed in through the side of the forge Questions 1. Is there an ideal location for the burner ie towards front or back? 2. I have a load of ceramic wool left over from a job, as well as the 76mm thick IFB is it sensible to back this with a few inches of insulation? 3. I have an option of 4 grades of brick from my sup…

I feel like I've asked this or discussed it before but I can't find it now. I have a 3 burner NA gas forge that I've never used because it's just so big. I also have a single burner which I'll carry back and forth between my main work area and the garage work area depending on weather. I've been wondering though, if I could temporarily close off a portion of the 3-burner cylinder to run as a single or 2 burner forge - so I wouldn't have to move my single burner back and forth between areas. I feel like the easiest solution is to simply get a chunk of firebrick that fits inside, with a hole cut into it for material to pass through, and maybe set a piece of angle iron …

Hi all, I have searched and not found a satisfactory answer to my question. Which is: Am I nuts to think I can build a good propane forge out of a 5 gallon steel drum that originally held turpentine? It is 10.5” in diameter and 13.5” high. it has a bung hole and I can flush it out before cutting, so I’m confident I can do it safely. I guess my question is, is the size and shape conducive to making a forge that I can get up to welding heat. Some background: I’m a woodworker/toolmaker. I’m not making knives. I have an atlas forge and I love it, but the size is limiting I would like to have something like a 5-6” diameter opening after all the insulation is i…

I'm building a two burner gas forge based on a two burner Chili Forge. John Switzer gave it good reviews. T-burners of course. I may be remembering this incorrectly, but I seem to recall an on-off valve for one of his previous gas forges. It's operates similarly the my quick on-off valve on my O-A torch, which I saw on his channel and decided to get one. I'm thinking he cuts off the gas because he's trying to talk and it's noisy. Maybe I'm out to lunch or remembering incorrectly because it doesn't seem to be a common practice to cut the propane for the minute or two one minutes at the anvil. I do like the idea of saving on propane. A 20# tank used to be $1…

due to some issues with air quality and my lungs it has been recommended to me that i stay away from working with coal as much as possible to this end i am looking for advice as to what sized propane fired forge i would need to be able to reliably heat 8 or so inches of inch thick bar stock and what is the smallest practical gas forge for teaching ones self how to make Damascus billets for fun if this can be the same forges great if i can do a paint can sized forge for one and a bigger one with a pass through for the larger work thats fine the biggest problem up here is i have not been able to find any light weight fire bricks but i do have kaowool i made a smalli…

based on color I'd have guessed it was. after it is up to temp, the whole interior is a light yellow. several attempts to forge weld have not been successful. cleaning, fluxing, giving it plenty of soak time, and lightly attempting to set the weld before hitting it hard. most recently thought I had a half inch ring welded, felt nice and solid. when trying to blend the seams, it popped loose. I thought that perhaps I do understand the technique but I'm just not hot enough. I obtained a thermocouple rated for 2375°f. It has an 8 inch probe. I set it at the door with the probe reaching into the interior about 4 inches where it rests on the forge floor. it rea…

To Greg, While I was reading page 125 of Burners 101 your thread disappeared. I am more than wiling to answer your questions, if you will post them again.

After reading on here and watching hours of You Tubes, I finally got my little first attempt at a forge done (see pictures below). My welding leaves a bit to be desired but I’m not any more of a welder than I am a blacksmith at this point…. I fired it up and it didn’t work like the You Tubes. It continually belched fire like one of those Game of Thrones dragons, so it was impossible to get anywhere near the mouth. I tried different amounts of gas and had the best results completely turning off the front burner. Still it took about ten min to make a 1/4” rebar end yellow. it continually belches fire in between periods of blue flames. I don’t know if it needs a vent on…

Hi y'all, I'll start with some context. I'm a newish blacksmith. Taken 60ish hours of classes in forging and metalworking. I'm primarily a furniture maker and am setting up a forge to be able to make custom hardware and tools. I have a $500 grant I received for getting a gas forge setup. I don't have a lot of time to devote to building a forge and probably lack a number of the tools necessary. I'm thinking I would like to buy something pre-built but it seems like most of the forges in my price range are inefficient and/or poorly built or don't get up to welding temps well. I'm considering ordering one of these propane tank forge bodies from eBay. like they hav…

Sometimes, the simple solutions are the best. (Screenshot of a FB video from Brazilian bladesmith Marcelão Lubaczwski.)

I thought everyone here would appreciate this video. It popped up in my feed this morning, I know it has been said the body of the forge is a vessel to hold the woo/refractory/cement etc to better trap heat. This Forge body was inspiring!! And looks so Cool, what an artist. ARMY

Does anybody know the folks at Majestic Forge? I believe the owner’s name is Bryan Horn. I just sold my forge because I was planning to buy one of his but I’m seeing reports on another forum that people are having trouble contacting them. I’m not looking to spam the guy or get into his issues with other customers, I’m just wondering if he’s still doing business.

Good morning all, I have a forge I built with burners based on this design: https://althoffwoodshop.com/blogs/main/forge-build-part-i-building-the-burners?srsltid=AfmBOoqjCx3s6BJB8fp32IsS9slCT3xlkMUHaDDsWM0sLvghsnNGQRGW Originally I had a reducer on the end as the flare. It was a 3/4" to 1" bell reducer that I ground the grooves off on the larger end. This worked very well, but the flame was igniting inside the reducer causing the bell to get red red red hot. After doing some looking and reading, I replaced the reducer with a stainless steel coupler as the nozzle end. I have not ground the grooves down on the flame end of this reducer after seeing Fro…

Hello guys, I'm new here. I'm a beginner blacksmith from Norway. I have built my own first forge, but I'm now considering buying a forge. Unfortunately there are limited options for me where I live. A little back story on why I want to buy a new forge. My current forge is based on isolating bricks. It has a steel shell with 1" of ceramic fiber, followed by isolating bricks. I also use a high-alumina brick as the forge floor. I use a Devil Forge burner (the 80 000 BTU one). Once it's properly heated up, it works fine in my estimation. Mind you, I'm a beginner but it heats steel up to yellow fairly quick. The thing is, it takes forever to warm up. It's probably at leas…

I bought a melting furnace to do bronze and brass castings with and need to rigidize and coat the ceramic insulation before I get stared. I have some colloidal silica, specifically west systems 406, to make rigidizer. Is this appropriate for the task at hand? If so, at what ratio should I mix it with water? PS. If anyone knows where I could get brass for casting in small quantities that would be great as well. Thank you

Hello from Chicago! I've read, but never written in the forums here and I'd really like your experienced opinions: I've been hobby forging for about 3 years, and running my very 1st gas forge, a 2 burner Mr. Volcano, the whole time. I've had no issues except that it limits the shape/size of my projects, and forge-welding has been slow. I'm thinking about "upgrading" to a Diamondback Blacksmith 2 burner forge that has a side door, as well as open ports on the ends. or one of the farrier forges like the Whisper Momma in similar configuration. A coal forge would eliminate both of the issues, but I live in the city and can't use one. Now, the side door should allow me…

I got this crazy idea last night. Yeah, this was after buying 100' of 3/8" A-36 last night. I wanted to make a new forge that would allow me to turn my ribbon burner directionally as needed. In other words, I can have the full length of the burner down the length of whatever is being heated, or turned so only the smaller width of the burner heats only a small section. I have metal sheet cut out 9" wide by 16" long for all 4 sides. I plan to clean and weld those tonight. This little model doesn't have the panels all correct, but it is a functional model. The insides will be covered with insulator (Kaowool or similar) then coated with castable refractory …

I'm picking up a propane forge this summer. Its the last bit I need to do a little shade tree iron work. The projects I want to do are mostly simple 18th century camp accouchements, so S hooks, trivets, fire irons, tent pegs and the like. One of the things that I want to avoid is using mild steel bar stock for everything. I've managed to collect a good pile of wrought iron scrap and would like to use this as raw material. I understand that wrought iron needs to be worked hotter than mild steel and needs to be very hot to weld. So my question is whether a one burner propane stove will put out enough heat to say straighten and draw out a 1/2 inc…

I just built a pair of 1/2" T-Burners from Frosty's plans. 3/4 x 1/2 Tees, 4" x 1/2" pipe, 3/4 reducing coupling as a flare, 0.023 Mig Tips. Initial test of each burner outside the forge was good. Once installed in the forge, the flame is not staying attached. One burner pulses, the other doesn't attach at all. If I blow into the forge, it attaches. I tied to upload a video, not sure if it will work. My best guess is a mixture problem? Too much air or not enough? The Mig tip is approximately 1/2 way into the Tee, as shown. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks VID_20250518_144656023.mp4