Simian

AEB-L stainless kitchen knife. Oak Burl handle, G10 liners, Titanium pins.

Stunning.

Hmmm... fired it up at the weekend, and after about an hour it had burnt back into the plenum. Dang. Blocked two of the central holes and had a go today - seems to be runnning hotter, and managed an hour (at lower pressure than before)without any issues. Will try to give it a longer burn at teh weekend.

I really struggle to think of things that aren't the typical Blacksmith "stuff" What about one of these? (not mine, Pic from the internet)

Bosh

Why-O-why didn't you give me that advice earlier? The weight of the block/burner cracked the casting on the first firing. The whole thing was proof of concept, and I didn't expect it to work, so no real tragedy...

I've read most of that thread prior to building mine So. my holes are about 8mm (5/16") and it will run from practically zero PSI all the way up to 30+. This is with a 1/2" Amal burner in a tiny forge (by design, about 130cu in). The Amal is epic, and can be adjusted from a rich to lean flame in seconds. Pics or it didn't happen! (it's only on the anvil for testing, and this is seconds after lighting) And after about 10 mins - it really is that bright, it's not just the camera - Zircon coating. It's whisper quiet, and uses tiny amounts of propane - I haven't even managed to get my bottle to frost up yet, which was a huge problem on my Devils Forge.

Thanks Buzzkill. I've been following some of your posts on NARBS - super helpful My holes are quite large, and it's a very small forge, so there may well be room for improvement.

so... Normal? Thanks for the speedy reply Frosty - You're a treasure!

Hallo All. I've been playing with a 1/2" NARB recently, all was going well. Forge-welds Ahoy! Yesterday, I shut the forge off for maybe 20-30 mins. When I came to restart it, the NARB block appeared to have taken on enough heat that the propane was igniting in the mixer tube/plenum, and after only a few mins, the plenum was glowing. Totally cool today, and started up with no issues. I can understand why this happened, (I think, normally, the gas/air flow cools the block). But, I ask for the collective knowledge; Is this a normal problem with Ribbon burners? Is this a design issue unique to my forge? The burner is on the side of the forge, firing across the side wall, so also some chimney effect. the block and liner is made of 1600 c alumina refractory (As much as I tried, I couldn't source kast-o-lite) Any help appreciated

Thanks, your comments are much appreciated That's a sheet of 1095 at the bottom. To stop it all warping and splaying out everywhere, I sandwiched it between two sheets of stainless. no borax, only a mist of WD40 before it went in the forge. I ended up with WAAAY more steel than this needed. Mainly, Pappy was Happy

Hey All. I envy you guys in the states - if we want to carry a knife in the UK it has to be under 3" and non-locking. But, it gives me the want to try making one! So this is my first attempt at a slip joint, and it's a 80th birthday present for my Dad. From this; Some of my own damascus (80 layer!) for the blade and spring (old handsaws and 1095), 1.6mm brass liners and stainless pins (with a bushing). To this, with Rosewood scales & Stainless bolts. (another nod to the future owner - My Mum's name is Rose); It's not perfect. I did my best to get the steel flat without a surface grinder, but the liners ended up a tiny bit out of parallel so it *just* bites as it closes and doesn't snap shut The walk and talk from halfway to fully open is good, but I also fudged the closed position, so the spring is a fraction below the liners (flush at open and half). I learned a lot, and number two should be a vast improvement. Critique welcome.

I've only just realised there is a separate section for folding knives here - I don't have a lot of spare time to view the forum. Beautiful work as ever! I've recently found some interesting youtube videos too...

I'm sorry to say that that burner won't even get a forge that size warm. I have a devils forge with 2 DFP burners, it's about 5"x5" and 16" long. 2 burners will get this hot, but it's not great. That's a huge forge, what are you planning? I'm relatively new to this (only a few years) and have learnt that smaller is better when it comes to forges - build the smallest forge you can realistically use. Also, put your location in your profile, it helps everyone with specific advice.

gimme a shout if you want me to pick one up and send it on - I suspect it wouldn't end up much cheaper tbh (but I don't know how much they are for you in the US?) Whoa... Whut? There's me planning some Kaowool and a steel shell and you throw that into the mix? I now have MUCH reading to do on that... Buzzkill The thickness at the openings was indeed for strength, and I considered doing exactly what you described (the rear on mine is half closed anyway). due to the way I formed the... er... former, it would have been hard to achieve. Looking back, I wish I had tried harder on that. We'll see. Making another liner wouldn't be too hard if I think it's needed. I also have a load of Colloidal silica and Zirconia silicate for a DIY IR coating. I'll hopefully get the insulation and shell done at the weekend, but for now, the liner is curing Thanks again for all the help/pointers guys.