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Found 256 results

  1. Hello , I've been collecting parts to build my first coal / coke forge to get into blacksmithing as a hobby for now.. all items were preexisting and picked up cheaply.. right now I have $100.00 into everything including a blower ( not shown ) the forge stand is 53" X 37" made of 2" square 1/8" wall tubing... the blue rack is 40" X 20" and will be used to hold the fireplace insert of the same size. the opening of the insert will be closed down in the front to be used as a side draft hood.. I have a brake disc for a firepot but may buy a different one .. I am wondering what thickness steel to use as the floor of the forge ?? is 1/4" thick enough ?? or should it be thicker ?? any thoughts or advice about this set up would be appreciated and well taken.. thanks... JT
  2. So to start off hello everyone, I've been trying to start, but i'm having some worries about how i can build my forge, at the moment i was going to use the box forge that's pinned but i haven't had time to build it, so my father decided to do it but it seems like he went a bit overboard this thing is absurdly large something like 3ft x 3ft and a foot deep and he used what i think is treated wood (I know treated wood had arsenic in it and couldn't be burned im not sure if its still like this today, but is it safe to heat it? aka being the box? ) now in the last few days someone heard i was trying to start blacksmithing and gave me a whole bunch of firebrick he had from a chimney or something, so i'm wondering is the box safe to use, or should i just do something with the firebrick? or line the box with it? sadly i don't have access to many tools or cash or i would have probably just rebuilt it or made something else but im hoping someone can let me know what i should do or at least give me an idea of a direction to head
  3. Good evening ladies and gentlemen! Having read though a few of the previous threads in the gasser subsection I couldn't find information which would improve my understanding of the intricacies of constructing a forge. Ignoring which burner I would construct to heat my forge I was hoping I could list out the materials I would use to construct the forge and learn whether or not the items I intend to buy would work or be a waste of time and money? I aim to build my forge inside of an empty gas canister 500mm in diameter and about 700mm in height. For lining the forge I was going to use a two layer system of ceramic fibre blanket underneath castable refractory cement in order to speed up the heating of the forge and save fuel. I've read in other threads that where people had only used castable refractory it lead to increased heating times and fuel inefficiency while fibre only builds introduced the risks of breathing hazards and damage to the wool from the flame exposure. My only concern is that the fibre that I have singled out (being available by the metre as opposed to buying a whole whopping big roll of the stuff!) has a lower melting temp than my refractory. The temperature limits are 1260degC for the fibre and 1600degC for the cement. Would 25mm of cement be enough to protect the fibre from temperatures in excess of its melting point or would I need to go thicker, increasing heating time but not liquefying my fibre? I'll post links to the products I intended to use before happening upon iforgeiron and prepare myself to be schooled Ceramic: http://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-refractory-castable-grade-1600-refractory-concrete-505-p.asp Fibre: http://shop.vitcas.com/ceramic-fibre-blanket-25mm-vitcas-ceramic-insulation-197-p.asp Rigidiser: http://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-ceramic-fibre-rigidiser-1035-p.asp Many thanks in advance! Seph
  4. Hello, I found this forum through underhill forge. I am interested in trying my hand at some bladsmithing and am currently looking into an affordable class in the lancaster/philly area. If that goes well i would be interested in continuing, but do not have the money or space for a forge of my own. Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a community forge or where you can rental space or time?
  5. Hey, folks. As a newbie who has only built a charcoal forge and box bellows from scrap so far, I've never done much research or looking into values of coal forges and blowers. So, I'm hoping y'all can give me some input on a fair general value of this forge and blower. Heck, or a "I wouldn't buy it because of..." even works. A family member is wanting to buy this set for me, and I want to make sure they aren't getting a bad deal (they won't tell me a price yet, so I was trying to get an idea of general fair-market value to tell them). If I were hunting for tools, I'd always go for as cheap as possible (and I know it depends on location and other variables), but any input just based on these photos on what you consider would be a fair price is appreciated. According to my family member, the blower (Champion No. 40) runs fairly smoothly & the forge table is approximately 24x40 inches. Looks like the counterweight is missing on the blower, and I can't quite tell if the clinker breaker is attached to the rod or not, but otherwise I'll have to wait to see it all in person. Honestly, I'm mainly interested in the blower since I wasn't planning on switching to coal/coke soon, but they're saying it's a package deal only. Thanks for any input.
  6. The following is a quick summery of the 55 Forge. More in depth design and discussion can be found on the site. The original 55 Forge was bottom blast. The fire shown is a little shallow, so if there is a question, just add more fuel. The tuyere was a piece of auto exhaust pipe with 1/4 inch holes to accept 1/4 inch round bar in a X pattern to form a grate. Lots of open room for air to move up and into the bottom of the fire. The next test modification was to put a brake drum into the 55 forge as a fire pot. You can see the cone shape to the ash and the rim of the fire pot. The bricks were added to give the fire more depth for the project at hand. Ash will build up to the top of the tuyere in the bottom blast in a fire or two. There is a T configuration below the bottom of the forge that is not shown. The T section is close to the bottom of the forge and the down pipe is 12 to 18 inches long (what ever you have on hand). Clinker is not really a problem due to the size of the tuyere. Just let the fire idle for a minute or two and the clinker will solid up and can be hooked out. Ash will at times fill the down pipe and need cleaned out. I have run this forge using coal dust or breeze. Once the fuel starts to coke ( a couple of minutes into the fire ) there is very little fuel that falls into the down pipe. The next modification was to make the 55 Forge a side blast forge. Just cut a slice in the side of the wall and add an air pipe. The depth of the slice was to the top of a house brick laid on its side. It was available. The fire shown is a little shallow, so if there is a question, just add more fuel. I like this design as it is so simple to build and works. That is an aluminum clothes dryer vent pipe being used to transfer air from the blower to the forge. With the side blast version the ash and any clinker builds up under the fire. On either 55 forge, the cut edges of the metal as they are sharp. You can roll them over, or cut a 2 inch piece of metal from the parent drum, fold it in half long ways, and place it over the cut edge of the metal pan. The 55 forge was developed so that any one in any third world country could have a forge with little or no cost. The forge runs on solid fuel, coal, coke, wood, charcoal, lumbar, pallets, etc. As has been stated many times before, Fuel does not make the fire hot, Air makes the fire hot. If there is a question about how hot, then add more fuel and more air. It can and has reached welding heat. It has also melted the metal if you do not pay attention to what your doing. ( Do not ask how I know this as I was not paying attention.) The 55 Forge is a great design that is simple and works. It is easily modified to adjust the size of the fire pot, the depth of the fire pot, different tuyere configurations, and the list goes on and on. Folks thought a brake drum was needed, so I tried both a brake drum and rotor. Each has advantages and disadvantages and in the end were not required. It simply adds a level of complexity to the system and overcomplicates simple. The fun part of the 55 Forge is make one, use it, modify it as you wish. When you finish there is another 55 Forge on the other end of the drum as a spare. The label on a drum is NOT accurate, it only means that is what the drum contained just before the label was applied. I found a empty drum at a auto repair shop. The label said 5W30 motor oil with a brand I immediately recognized. Somehow the top of the drum was hooved or domed a bit. When I removed the bung plug from the bung hole there was release of pressure and an overpowering aroma of gasoline and other very volatile materials. I ask the shop manager about the drum and he said "Oh that was the one they used for racing fuel last weekend." ALWAYS choose a drum that you can pronounce what it contained before you brought it home. NEVER use anything that throws off heat or sparks when you open a closed container or drum. If in doubt, have someone else cut the drum in half while you go get a burger and fries for the both of you for lunch. The 55 Forge is just a way to get you started quickly, so you can play in the fire while you research and plan on what your second forge design will look like.
  7. First post. I am just getting into the hobby and am thinking about how to best set up my work space. I know a major concern is ventilation and I have read some of threads about forging indoors and the potential hazards. My question, is it ever be feasible to have a basement set up and would I just be asking for trouble trying to forge indoors? The only reason I am considering this is because I have a well functioning basement fireplace, and I wondered if I could use that to vent gases from a 2-burner propane forge. My basement specs: -Hearth and fireplace, flue in good condition have had roaring fires in winter with no issues -Multiple block glass windows with sections that can be opened for ventilation -Multiple CO detectors in the house, one of which gives a PPM readout -Drafty 1920's construction -Concrete floor and tiled concrete walls -HVAC return air is blocked off, but HVAC constantly blows new air into basement -Have the ability to create positive pressure with blowers motors that pull fresh air through basement windows. My thinking, was to just test it out with a few different venting set ups and see what PPM CO readings I got. Interested in your opinions if the windows and fireplace might make this a feasible option or if it's just a bad idea.
  8. While carving a burner port in an insulating fire brick last night without any power tools, I got a particle embedded in my eye. No I was not wearing safety glasses and just using a hand file. I don't know how it happened exactly. The particle was on my iris and would not flush out no matter how much water I splashed or ran across my eyeball. Fortunately, several hours later it dislodged naturally. Just a word of warning for those that don't think they need safety glasses when using hand tools.
  9. Hello all, I'm currently working on building a gas forge using a helium tank as the shell. I was planning on lining with 2" kaowool, but by my calculations, that leaves me with a larger interior volume than I expected. So I'd likely need two burners. But when I set two inlet ports on the tank, it looks crowded. Am I doing something wrong? The tank is 14" tall and 12" in diameter. About 10" of the height is the full diameter, with 2" on each end forming the end caps, so to speak. Using just the 10" straight section, and assuming a 2" lining, I'm coming up with an inner volume of about 500 cubic inches. Am I correct in thinking I'd need 2 of most types of burners, or maybe a single T-rex? Should I go for 3 inches of lining to further reduce the chamber volume? Many thanks.
  10. I've been reading on techniques for using coal in forges and I read something on a beehive fire style setup. What is this? How do I do it? Do you recommend it?
  11. I have been told that this anvil is more than likely a Trenton Anvil sold by The Bostwick & Braun Company in Toledo, Ohio which was (and is) a large hardware supply house. The stamps on the anvil look like "Z 12" on the left and "A23812" on the right.
  12. Hello guys this is my first time ever writing a forum so go easy on me. However, after searching the internet for hours I cannot find a forum on my particular problem. I am running a homemade forge with a homemade fire pot and clinker breaker. Although I have burned bituminous before, it is hard to come by and I don't particularly care for how smoky and stinky it is! So after searching, I have found a local feed store that carries anthracite for a more than reasonable price of 5$ for 50lbs. I really like how hot and clean the anthracite burns and never seems to burn down as quickly as bituminous. However, I have a problem that occurs every time I run my Forge. It works beautifully for around an hour and I can easily reach welding heat, but after this first hour it is like a light switch is flipped. I can see a bunch of unburned, black coal at the bottom of my firepot and the fire cools down considerably. After about five minutes, my coal bed looks like checkered black and white. If I scoop the cold coal out of the center, there just seems to be more coal around cooling and falling down. I don't understand what the problem is seeing how well it works in the beginning of my fire. Apparently this isn't a common problem as i cant find a forum on it anywhere. It is very frustrating and is ruingin the forging experience for me. Anything would help, and thank you all.
  13. Hi. I built a gas forge from a paint can. A lot of shortcuts were taken to save time and money. Many things were not done quite right according to helpful posts in this subgroup. The forge was lined with a homemade refractory composed of fireclay, grog, perlite, wood ash, and concrete. When it was first built, it could barely weld mild steel. Since it was outside, it eventually rusted through and the refractory collapsed. Even after repairs, it wouldn't weld. Some colleagues wanted to use it, so it looked like time for a new one.
  14. I just built a furnace, I don't even have a fuel picked out yet (post answers pending), and I want to spend as little money as possible until I get into it and know that I'll enjoy it enough to put money into a proper bellows. At the moment, would a vacuum cleaner that blows work as a bellows when connected to a steel pipe? The pipe goes into the base of the furnace so the air is blowing directly onto the coal/charcoal (again, fuel question answers are pending - Coal vs. Charcoal) in the bottom of the furnace. I'm not just using the furnace to heat metals; I'm also using it (with a crucible) to melt soft metals to cast into jewelry.
  15. Here are some pictures of the forge build I'm currently working on! It's a motor shell insulated with ceramic kaowool blanket and coated with refractory cement. I'm just waiting on the cement to dry so I can coat the whole thing in itc-100 and fire it up! I've included a not so great photo of the burner I will be using in it as well. I'd love to explain it but it's one my dad built years ago and hasn't gotten around to showing me how to build yet. Let me know what you think! Thanks for reading! Spencer Dirks
  16. hello everyone , at first this is my first time posting here and i am from the netherlands so my english wont be perfect . i watched a video about making a propane burner for my selfmade foundry ( so i finished the build but it does not work like the one in the video here are some photos's and a video of my burner .: so as you can see the torch does not burn right and it burns inside the supply tube aswell.. i am out of ideas what it can be please help video-1477765585.mp4
  17. I'm looking for some help identifying this forge I recently picked up. Instead of a hand crank, it uses a lever/pump action to move the blower. It's definitely been repaired on top at some point over the years as it looks like the pan probably rusted through. Everything else is in original shape and works great, although the legs are pretty wobbly at this point. Should I restore them and make it usable again or leave it as-is and sell it to someone who needs a decoration? The hand crank mechanism works, ie. it blows a bit of air, but it's a lot more work than turning a hand powered version, even one without a flywheel. Just seems very over complicated and inefficient, which is why I'm wondering if it's not somehow "special." I can't find any identifying marks anywhere except for a 526 and 527 on either side of the tuyere. I hadn't ever seen anything like it and figured it had to be worth something!
  18. Hey ya'll! Its your friendly neighborhood Texan here! I've started the construction of my coal forge! Got a F250 Brake rotor, some scrap sheet steel, and some rebar. sizes: 30"x22" rebar frame It's all going to be welded together today. I'm not sure what to use for the legs... I'm just going to stack some cendar blocks for the time being. Picture: I'll update as I progress.
  19. Well folks today was an interesting day. I recently picked up an old coal forge for 250$ CAD and was pretty excited to fire it up. Today I finally got the chance to do so and about 30 minutes into the session we heard a loud bang and watched a crack form into the cast table. Is there anything I can do to rectify this situation? I'm assuming considering it's cast welding is not an option. Maybe it would be best to just pull off the blower and attempt to recoup as much of my cost as possible! Maybe this is an omen letting me know I should switch to propane. Let me know what you think. Spencer Dirks
  20. fround a few old forges rusting away, blower ( hand crank and electric ) all seems beyond hope but the tues may be salvagable. on the blowers is the name Beaumont & Wood who are in sheffield UK, anyone know of them. think these are from the time of WW2
  21. Hello, I wanted to post this on the forums because I have a lot of questions and I'm sure someone will know the answers. I tried to look up some information up online with no luck. So here you guys go: 1: Is this piece rare and desired by the blacksmithing community? 2: How much would this piece be sold for? 3: What is the history behind this piece if any? Thank you so much for your time and if you want I'd be more than happy to reply to anything said. Mitch
  22. I recently picked up an old rivet forge made by Canedy - Otto Mfg Co, usually known for their drill presses and larger blowers. I don't have a lot of info so I hope some of y'all might be able to help. Well I went to work restoring/refurbishing it as well as making upgrade like repairs in the prossess. Here are some pictures of the forge as I got it. The blower does turn but its not smooth and I worry that with every turn it could break a tooth. It's definitely not clean or lubed. Inside the forge is a brake rotor and tongs. The rotor will come into play later. As you can see, its been neglected for quite a while. We'll start with disassembly and wire brushing. It all started off easy, but then there was one stubborn bolt. I cleaned out and cut the slotted head, but it broke one of my flat head bits. So I cut into the back of the bolt, still to no avail. So finally I cut it off with the angle grinder. With a bit of gentle persuasion I got the extension off. As you can see its in pretty bad shape. I continue disassembly with the legs. The hardware was dirty and rusted. A little brush down with a wire brush and some WD-40 got the bolts out. The blower was attached with two bolts. Those came out without incident. Now I get to really clean it. I started brushing it down and found the gearbox had a separation where the lid goes on, so I opened or up. Here is a before and after showing how it is now compared to how gunked up it was. I cut a layer off the rotor so it'd sit more flush to the bottom if the pot. I also cut the pot to fit the rotor. It is so cracked and decayed that I don't feel bad about cutting it to make room. I prepared the metal for welding. As I welded in sections to stress the metal less I disassembled the legs further, wire brushed them, and painted them with rust converter. Put it all back together (plus some spacers under the pot and some new hardware where needed), grease the gears, and you're done! I'll make another post just for all the finished photos.
  23. Hi guys, I live in Calgary and am about to move into a new house why an awesome garage, but it brings up a few questions. First, I am thinking of building a hood to gather the combusted gasses from both a charcoal brake drum forge and a propane forge. The guy at a bbq shop is suggesting an 8" double walled chimney. The good thing is that it will be pretty close to code (wall penetration and 6 ft above the gutter, about the same height as the peak). He says that because I am not burning wood in a direct vent system a hood is ok. However, on this forum people keep saying 8" might not be enough. I'll post some pics for context. Any informed opinions? Btw, the garage is in a lower area with a hill behind it (fairly protected) and I bought a cheap window fan that I can use to pressurize the garage a bit. The forging area will be tucked on the left side of that garage door, right next to the cinder block wall. There is virtually no overhang (no soffit) as you can see in the pictures. Still looks like over a grand just for the parts, and I need to get a hood custom made by a local sheet metal place.
  24. In one of his latest YouTube videos (seen here), Torbjörn Åhman makes an oil-fired forge using an old burner from a residential furnace. Has anyone here had experience with doing something similar?
  25. after recently been laid off at the machine shop by work that I've decided to take up an interest that's fascinating me since I was a child. Below I have 3-D renderings of the forge I designed this is based after the forge that my great uncle used. It's going to be made from a steel cyclinder that is 21" long, a 1/4" thick, and has a 10" diameter. It has an end that is blocked off with a rectangular hole of an undetermined size that will be able to be covered by a hinged door. The main reason I added this feature is so there isn't a jet of fire being blown out of the open end of the forge. I also equipped the forge with slots that I can put in refractive sheet bricks to be able to close the forge til it comes to working temperatures. I'll be lining it with 2" KAO wool using ITC-100 to make it a more efficient forge. It's going to be a dual burning forge with a valve that can limit it to a single if desired.On the bottom I'm going to make a flat surface using a refractive "clay" so the work piece isn't resting on the wool. I would like to hear your thoughts, opinions, things you would change, and things that you would do to make it better. If you like the design feel free to use the renderings I've attached to make your own. -Jason