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  1. during the drying process the cast-o-lite started to rub off and feel like sand did i do something wrong
  2. OK everything I just wrote dissapeard, Here is my home made power hammer, I am trying to make a living being an artist blacksmith and bronze foundry, I have also made a Pneumatic planshing hammer
  3. I was a prize idiot... I attempted and succeeded in creating a castable refractory liner for the kaowool in the helium tank forge I'm building. I needed to preserve the space inside for the work and in a hurry...I grabbed the first thing I could find. Wait for it... ...a stack of red Solo cups...(yeah, I know). I have read that diesel or gasoline can dissolve them, but I don't want to make another mistake that's WAY more dangerous. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks all!
  4. I'm new to blacksmithing, and I bought this forge link removed from Amazon for cheap because of that. I have it setup on just a standard 15lb propane tank that you would use for grilling. For smaller projects, it has worked great, I can get my material heated up fairly quickly, and at a temperature I feel is good for working and moving metal. With smaller pieces, such as an old file, rebar, or an old punch, I am able to get it heated up to a nice bright orange when set around 10psi. I would estimate around 2,000-2,200 degrees. However, I discovered some old leaf spring steel in an old shop las
  5. I just bought a Fisher anvil. Haven't weighed it yet, but I was told it's about 80 pounds. It has 1882 on it. The top edges have a couple of chipped places, but not bad. I paid $150 for it, any idea if I over paid?
  6. After a year using a JABOD forge (using charcoal), I decided to solidify make a steel fire pot. I was tired of having to reform the sides because they'd crumble. So, inspired by the fire pot that Charles R. Stevens showed us in a different topic, I made my own. I work mostly on small items (hooks, leaves, etc.), so I wanted a shape that would conserve fuel as much as possible. This is why I added a slope on the wall opposite the tuyere. A slightly more complex shape but the bottom is only 2" by 3", while the top is 5" by 10". Total height is 6". First I made a cardboard mockup t
  7. Hi so im a not so beginner who is looking to upgrade his forge. I had a small forge made out of soft firebricks and it is a bit too small and i would like higher heats with more efficiency. Do any of you have recommendations for how to go on with my next forge? Or if I can get better efficiency with a dual burner design?
  8. So I understand that in a solid fuel forge, the refractory material for the forge lining isn't as important as for a gas forge, however, I've made a mix to line my new side blast JABOD style forge and I'd like some of you guy's opinions and advise on the matter. The mix is 2 parts clay, 2 parts lime and 1 part wood ash. I'm thinking the clay and lime will form a solid and tough structure and the wood ash and lime will help to increase the temperature I can reach without starting the melt the lining. Would this work? Or should I add something else to the mix?
  9. I have recently started making Damascus billets and in some of my research ive heard "you have to have compatible metals". I don't really understand what makes two different steels compatible for forge welding. Mainly I'd like to know what I can use out of my scrap pile (since im a farmer with 4 generations worth of scrap). I have tried an old duck foot shovel, ( basically a hoe for plowing ground ) with a stainless saw blade. These haven't really been working and I'm not sure if it's my ability to forge weld or if it's the materials. Thanks.
  10. Hello everyone, this is my first time posting on this forum, I started forging as a hobby a couple years ago and I am a beginner in the craft. I forged three blades so far, and only the first didn't break in half and actually made it to being an actual knife, but it was very short in comparison to my third blade. The second blade broke when I tried, foolishly, to straighten it in the vise right after quenching. I come to you for advice on why my third blade broke, so here is the detailed process it went through, from forging to tempering : The steel is from a used crop lifter
  11. Hi all! I quickly progressed from coal to gas in a matter of trying coal once. we dont agree. Anyrate. Disclaimer: I am 99% self taught so..I followed the plans laid out by a youtuber i made a gas forge and burners out of an old propane tank and some pipe. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiSgR-IJMyk) I am quite proud of myself i learned how to stick weld also. After a couple of small projects (simple tons, knife and Kukhri) im getting more comfortable really cranking the heat. I have since then got a fire brick to go inside and i stack on the backside of the forge. I am running a 30 psi regu
  12. Hey guys! I've posted and talk about a propane tank enclosed forge me and my dad are building, but now I have some questions about our old brake drum forge we built maybe 4 years ago. It's pretty open, (Check pics) though it holds a decent enough amount of coal. But the problem is that I'm not getting enough heat. It take a long time to heat up the steel, and it's hard to heat up even just a rail road spike to bright orange. So... What can I improve on this forge to fix this? We only have the one pipe at the bottom of the forge for airflow with a little door at the bottom to let out xxxx,
  13. Hello all, I am new to the community and anxious to dive right into some basic metalwork. However, I need a forge first. I've played around with plenty of firepits and hair dryers before, but i'm looking to really get going with a proper forge setup. I live in the country so space and fuel type are quite flexible. My only real constraint is that I want it to be capable of forge welding low carbon steels and maybe even pure iron for when my skills hopefully reach that point. To my knowledge that requires a temperature of around 2700° F. Do you fine folks think I should build o
  14. Hey guys, I am entirely new to this and wanting to build a for out of an air compressor. My original plan was to create a rectangular first, but I have this and thought it would be a good start. I have tried to research if this is a good idea or not, but I would like some input from people who have been doing this for a while. I will not build until the new year, so I have time. Dimensions are 24" long and 6" od. I was thinking 2- 3/4" burners with 1 or 2" fiber blanket. If it's a bad idea, I think it would be a decent quench tank. Thoughts?
  15. Hello IFI, I've been passing through this forum for quite some time and as I just fired my first home built forge I though it time to join. Here's the build out list: Brake Disc, 16x30 metal cart, Buffalo blower, 2 inch piping for tuyere, clay, fire brick, and regular brick. sheet metal. I clayed the entire cart around the disc under the bricks, this leveled things out for the brick mostly, but also added a nice added layer of thermal protection to the cheap cart metal. Fire brick is cut around the disc face, giving me a pot 3.5 inches deep and 7 inches wide. Picked up the blower
  16. Hello all, I'm looking at buying my first forge this week after having taken my first class and absolutely loving it. I've been trying to look into the NC Knifemakers Forge over the Whisper Momma based on some complaints I've seen on the Whisper Momma not getting to forge welding temperature very easily. Does anyone have any experience with this forge? I can't find any previous threads talking about this one. If you have any thoughts let me know! (I'm looking to buy rather than build because I've been buying materials for a few weeks and loved my first forging session and
  17. Hello I am kinda new, and one of the focuses I want to get into is tool making. I have seen lots of info on making pretty much any tool I can think of besides anvils, and was wondering if anyone had info on this topic. More specifically forged anvils, not tooled or cast. I have seen a few small projects mostly from alec Steele for decorative ones, but I want to learn to make useful ones starting small, and working up to larger ones.
  18. Hi all, New to the forums and to smithing. I see a lot of good info here, so I wanted to ask the question. To build or to buy? I've seen a lot of forges online priced $350 and up, that's a big pill for a newbie like me, so I was wondering if it'd be cheaper/smarter to build. I need everything for anvils to hammers and would like to be as economical as possible. So i did some googling, found this site, bummed around Amazon and eBay, and I noticed that buying the materials plus shipping as about the same if not more than buying a pre-made forge. Now, all I looked for was sheet metal, Fi
  19. Hi everyone! Please, I know, before you bash me, this has been asked hundreds of times. The problem I have is that I have ABSOLUTELY no access to any of the 2000C° plus refractory linings. I live on a small island in Portugal, there are no blacksmith, no forges, so no forge related stores. And due to EU regulations, most refractories contain chemicals not really suitable for exportation/importation so any outside shops I find, don't ship them here. I managed to buy a decent amount of ceramic blanket, but I'll be getting my cancer through smoking, so I need to coat it. So I was thinking if
  20. I'm looking for some help identifying this forge I recently picked up. Instead of a hand crank, it uses a lever/pump action to move the blower. It's definitely been repaired on top at some point over the years as it looks like the pan probably rusted through. Everything else is in original shape and works great, although the legs are pretty wobbly at this point. Should I restore them and make it usable again or leave it as-is and sell it to someone who needs a decoration? The hand crank mechanism works, ie. it blows a bit of air, but it's a lot more work than turning a hand powered version, ev
  21. Hello! I have a question about a 4-way directional control valve. I have build a forge press for my smithy, and I’m wondering if there is a power stroke port on my control valve. The system is a 25 ton press, but I don’t feel like I am getting the power that the system is designed for. I’ll attach some pictures. I’m wondering if I have my hoses from the control valve and DA cylinder connected correctly. I installed everything to the manufacturers specifications. Also, regarding the control valve, I have to lift up on the handle to articulate the cylinder downward, and push down on the handle t
  22. Currently working on my new ribbon burner forge build. I put an initial layer of around 1/2 of Kastolite 30 on top of my kawool, after I let it dry to gently rubbed off the crumbly sections to see what was solid. I chose to add another layer since it seemed thin on the forge floor. Should I add another layer on the roof? It seems solid currently, and there's just a few small patches I have to fill in. I've heard that I could potentially cause issues with having two layers of Kastolite? Thanks!
  23. Hello there! New member here, me and my dad are in the middle of building a propane tank forge. So far it is all put together, cut open and ready for refractories. Here's our issue: He have some ceramic wool to line the inside, 1" thick. We know that it is better to do 2", and I think we have enough for 2". We Also have 2 5-gallon buckets of unknown refractory cement (We don't know what kind/brand it is, we just know that it is refractory cement). Our original plan was to line the forge with the wool, and then coat it with the refractory. But as I've been reading and looking around, I've heard
  24. Does anyone have any information about this item or it’s value. I’m sorry for the horrible picture & the tiller the way. It was my grandpa’s. Located in Des Moines, Iowa. I appreciate your help-tyi!
  25. fround a few old forges rusting away, blower ( hand crank and electric ) all seems beyond hope but the tues may be salvagable. on the blowers is the name Beaumont & Wood who are in sheffield UK, anyone know of them. think these are from the time of WW2
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