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Found 264 results

  1. Hello all, new to this forum and I was hoping I could get some advice. I am really interested in Smithing and I would like to pick up this hobby, and I have some questions. I am going to start building my forge. I was thinking about welding two 20 pound propane tanks together. I plan on making knives and small swords/machetes and the likes. I plan on lining it with 2 inches of kaowool with firebrick on the bottom and adding a door and all that. It is going to be a propane forge. My first question is will this forge need 2 burners? Or just one? I know there are different kinds of burners. Am I going overkill on size? Should I just use one 20 pound tank? What size anvil should I be looking for? And I am aware that a belt grinder is the best tool for grinding the blades, but I'm trying to save money because I'm buying a pistol soon. Would a bench grinder suffice if I use a softer stone? Sorry for all of the questions I just want to do things right.
  2. New here. I'm looking for advise on fixing this up. The fan is free but the crank is locked up, I know ill have to t take it apart. Anyone have suggestions on what to do or where to start?
  3. I am repairin a masonry supported coal forge . A hole burned through the side of the cast iron firepot was patched with Rutland Furnace cement and a 3/8 steel plate set up in front of the patched hole. Seems to be holding up okay. But there are some gaps between the firepot and the supporting masonry ranging from an inch to two inches wide. These gaps ae presently covered by some a few loose steel plates. The plates shift around, coal falls throught the gaps, and are a very poor fix. I would appreciate suggestions on repairing these gaps . Thanks
  4. Hi guys, I'm new to the site. This is my first post. I'm very interested in making my first forge. I've watched a few videos. The one that intrigues me most is this one I was told that the refractory material he used for the insulation wasn't very good as the sodium silicates melting point is around 1900 degrees, any ideas on stuff that I should be able to pick up at a local hardware store? There is also a Menards close by so I can go there as well. Any ideas on the burner that he made as well? I can get most of the parts for it, just not sure where he got the adapter from for the blowtorch valve to thread on to the hose that runs in to the 20lb tank. I would like to keep the forge fairly simple and fairly light on the wallet as this will not be a full time gig for me like I'm sure it is for a lot of you guys. Thanks in advanced. GrizzlyAdamz
  5. Someone drug this by the shop the other day to ask if they could use it as a forge. I'm guessing some kind of annealing or tempering furnace. Or, is it a farrier forge for horseshoes? Looks like it runs on acetylene and Ox. I did a little searching but couldn't find anything.
  6. First post. I am just getting into the hobby and am thinking about how to best set up my work space. I know a major concern is ventilation and I have read some of threads about forging indoors and the potential hazards. My question, is it ever be feasible to have a basement set up and would I just be asking for trouble trying to forge indoors? The only reason I am considering this is because I have a well functioning basement fireplace, and I wondered if I could use that to vent gases from a 2-burner propane forge. My basement specs: -Hearth and fireplace, flue in good condition have had roaring fires in winter with no issues -Multiple block glass windows with sections that can be opened for ventilation -Multiple CO detectors in the house, one of which gives a PPM readout -Drafty 1920's construction -Concrete floor and tiled concrete walls -HVAC return air is blocked off, but HVAC constantly blows new air into basement -Have the ability to create positive pressure with blowers motors that pull fresh air through basement windows. My thinking, was to just test it out with a few different venting set ups and see what PPM CO readings I got. Interested in your opinions if the windows and fireplace might make this a feasible option or if it's just a bad idea.
  7. Hey guys, It's been a little while since I've been on here but I have questions. I have a half round horse rasp that I can see the letters A and R inside a picture of a horseshoe and underneath says made in U.S.A. I was wondering who makes this horse rasp? Second question is how can I save this image because I want to forge a knife from it. Thank you very much, ACforge
  8. Hand Cranked Forge Blower Build Here are the pictures of my Hand Cranked Forge Blower Build, made using a Mole Hand Grinder found on the internet (which has a 1 to 10 gear ratio), some old side pannels off a PC, a few small rivets, some protective steel corners that came with a kitchen worktop and some 12mm Aluminium angle iron. Here are the picture's of the grinder on its own. The back piece with the right angled brackets. Starting to rivet together the fan blade using 12mm aluminium angle iron. Cutting the brackets to size and drilling the holes for the rivets. After riveting the first part of the fan case together. I then ran out of rivets but decided to continue using cardboard to check everything would work alright. The rivets I needed arrived and so the rest of the fan surround went on as well as the bolts to hold the front panel on. Here is the fan blades and mounting disk, its not perfectly balanced so does 'wobble' abit but it should be fine for the amount I will be using it. And here is the 'almost' finished blower. I ran a line of bathroom chalk around the joins on the inside of the case to cover any small gaps and the bolts hold the front on tight. I don't own a hole saw large enough to make the 80cm dia hole in the front so lots of small holes with have to do for now. All that remains is to find a piece of tubing to connect the blower to the forge and then try it out. The blower seems to be providing a reasonable amount of airflow although I think it isn't recieving enough airflow from the holes in the front. Ill try to take a video when its working and post a link to this thread. This blower has probably cost me between £40-£50 and around 30-40 hours of time, I'm a pretty slower worker but when your doing something you enjoy the time really doesn't matter. Buying a hand cranked blower in okay condition would have most likely cost £60+ but I wouldn't have learned anywhere near as much as I did by doing it myself. My original inspiration came from this thread here: If anyone has any suggestions or advice, or wants to ask any questions then by all means feel free. Thanks for reading and hopefully there isn't too many pictures, I know how much you guys enjoy them. Tom
  9. Good evening ladies and gentlemen! Having read though a few of the previous threads in the gasser subsection I couldn't find information which would improve my understanding of the intricacies of constructing a forge. Ignoring which burner I would construct to heat my forge I was hoping I could list out the materials I would use to construct the forge and learn whether or not the items I intend to buy would work or be a waste of time and money? I aim to build my forge inside of an empty gas canister 500mm in diameter and about 700mm in height. For lining the forge I was going to use a two layer system of ceramic fibre blanket underneath castable refractory cement in order to speed up the heating of the forge and save fuel. I've read in other threads that where people had only used castable refractory it lead to increased heating times and fuel inefficiency while fibre only builds introduced the risks of breathing hazards and damage to the wool from the flame exposure. My only concern is that the fibre that I have singled out (being available by the metre as opposed to buying a whole whopping big roll of the stuff!) has a lower melting temp than my refractory. The temperature limits are 1260degC for the fibre and 1600degC for the cement. Would 25mm of cement be enough to protect the fibre from temperatures in excess of its melting point or would I need to go thicker, increasing heating time but not liquefying my fibre? I'll post links to the products I intended to use before happening upon iforgeiron and prepare myself to be schooled Ceramic: Fibre: Rigidiser: Many thanks in advance! Seph
  10. In one of his latest YouTube videos (seen here), Torbjörn Åhman makes an oil-fired forge using an old burner from a residential furnace. Has anyone here had experience with doing something similar?
  11. I was acquiring pieces for a forge and found this one at the local auction where I have been posting photos of abused anvils that have been showing up and selling for way to much... Its a buffalo Forge fire pot and electric blower . its in very good condition compared to most I've looks bigger in person then in the photos.. its 30" X 35" X 32" high... I think I got a good deal at $335.63 including fees and tax..
  12. Hey all, Let me preface with: 1) I am happy to find a cool forum like this, and 2) I am very new to the craft, as in, I've always wanted to, but have never done it. I have only watched about a hundred hours of video and read a bunch online. I know that does NOT take the place of actually doing it. So I have been wanting to make my own DIY homemade forge and started looking around at steel recycle, scrapyards, etc. I got turned away from a couple (they just didn't have what I needed), but they were both pointing me in the right direction. I finally, and with their help, found a place that was like, "yeah, go back and see what you can find and you can just have it." So I ended up walking away with an old brake rotor, a steel wheel (15"), and a leaf spring. "Awesome find for free!" I thought. It's a good thing I didn't bring a truck back there and didn't have to walk the 250 yards carrying everything. My question is: should I go ahead with the rotor to build my forge? Or a drum? Or the wheel? Rotor details: About 4" deep Inside diameter: 8" (mostly), 9.5" at the top 0.75" I plan on inserting it into a metal 4-wheel cart (w/ locking wheels! ) So would a brake drum be better? It would be bigger, so more coal, coke, etc. But is bigger better? I am not looking to do smaller knife stock at this point. I am looking for what would be better for all around blacksmithing; utilitarian, artistic, whatever. I don't have a drum to compare it to here, but for the wheel... Wheel details: 15" steel Many many holes Again, I plan on inserting it into a metal 4-wheel cart (w/ locking wheels!) I don't think I've ever seen a wheel forge before... My problem with the wheel, if I were to use it instead of the rotor or a drum, is that it has so many holes (side holes, not center) that are lower than what I would use for the blower section. I will include a picture and it won't probably show what I mean right here, but maybe you can see what I mean. I would have to weld in a circular plate for that part outside the hub that dips down. Here's the thing, I don't have a welder nor do I know how. I plan on get a starter welding set up in the next month so maybe this could be a good first project?? And if it's crap, oh well. Start over, no big deal. Local biz plug: a plug for the xxxxxxxx that gave me the free hardware? And not to mention the awesome customer service: xxxxxxxx link removed. xxxxxxx! I've gotten my tires there for seven years now and they xxxxxxx xxxxxxxx in not only their service, but prices! xxxx xxxx! Anyway, now they also gave me free xxxx so they definitely qualify as xxxxxxxx.... Other than being a customer, I have no affiliation with them, they just rock. What do you all think? Rotor, drum or wheel? Sorry, that was a lot longer post than I expected, but I hope it got most of my details across. IForgeIron is a G rated Family Forum. Inappropriate language will not be tolerated.
  13. For those that haven't seen my post about me acquiring an antique forge recently, the picture of it is below. I wanted your advice on how I could make a firepot about softball sized with extra flat space (I don't know the specific name of it, like a table) around it for holding coal. Since my forge is a rivet forge it did not come with a firepot and with the tuyere about half an inch above the bottom of the pan. My idea was putting dirt into the bottom of the pan so it would fill in that half an inch under the tuyere. Then I'd make the firepot out of sheet metal. The pan is 18" diameter. Thoughts on this idea or if you have another idea?
  14. Hello , I've been collecting parts to build my first coal / coke forge to get into blacksmithing as a hobby for now.. all items were preexisting and picked up cheaply.. right now I have $100.00 into everything including a blower ( not shown ) the forge stand is 53" X 37" made of 2" square 1/8" wall tubing... the blue rack is 40" X 20" and will be used to hold the fireplace insert of the same size. the opening of the insert will be closed down in the front to be used as a side draft hood.. I have a brake disc for a firepot but may buy a different one .. I am wondering what thickness steel to use as the floor of the forge ?? is 1/4" thick enough ?? or should it be thicker ?? any thoughts or advice about this set up would be appreciated and well taken.. thanks... JT
  15. So to start off hello everyone, I've been trying to start, but i'm having some worries about how i can build my forge, at the moment i was going to use the box forge that's pinned but i haven't had time to build it, so my father decided to do it but it seems like he went a bit overboard this thing is absurdly large something like 3ft x 3ft and a foot deep and he used what i think is treated wood (I know treated wood had arsenic in it and couldn't be burned im not sure if its still like this today, but is it safe to heat it? aka being the box? ) now in the last few days someone heard i was trying to start blacksmithing and gave me a whole bunch of firebrick he had from a chimney or something, so i'm wondering is the box safe to use, or should i just do something with the firebrick? or line the box with it? sadly i don't have access to many tools or cash or i would have probably just rebuilt it or made something else but im hoping someone can let me know what i should do or at least give me an idea of a direction to head
  16. Hello, I found this forum through underhill forge. I am interested in trying my hand at some bladsmithing and am currently looking into an affordable class in the lancaster/philly area. If that goes well i would be interested in continuing, but do not have the money or space for a forge of my own. Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a community forge or where you can rental space or time?
  17. Hey, folks. As a newbie who has only built a charcoal forge and box bellows from scrap so far, I've never done much research or looking into values of coal forges and blowers. So, I'm hoping y'all can give me some input on a fair general value of this forge and blower. Heck, or a "I wouldn't buy it because of..." even works. A family member is wanting to buy this set for me, and I want to make sure they aren't getting a bad deal (they won't tell me a price yet, so I was trying to get an idea of general fair-market value to tell them). If I were hunting for tools, I'd always go for as cheap as possible (and I know it depends on location and other variables), but any input just based on these photos on what you consider would be a fair price is appreciated. According to my family member, the blower (Champion No. 40) runs fairly smoothly & the forge table is approximately 24x40 inches. Looks like the counterweight is missing on the blower, and I can't quite tell if the clinker breaker is attached to the rod or not, but otherwise I'll have to wait to see it all in person. Honestly, I'm mainly interested in the blower since I wasn't planning on switching to coal/coke soon, but they're saying it's a package deal only. Thanks for any input.
  18. The following is a quick summery of the 55 Forge. More in depth design and discussion can be found on the site. The original 55 Forge was bottom blast. The fire shown is a little shallow, so if there is a question, just add more fuel. The tuyere was a piece of auto exhaust pipe with 1/4 inch holes to accept 1/4 inch round bar in a X pattern to form a grate. Lots of open room for air to move up and into the bottom of the fire. The next test modification was to put a brake drum into the 55 forge as a fire pot. You can see the cone shape to the ash and the rim of the fire pot. The bricks were added to give the fire more depth for the project at hand. Ash will build up to the top of the tuyere in the bottom blast in a fire or two. There is a T configuration below the bottom of the forge that is not shown. The T section is close to the bottom of the forge and the down pipe is 12 to 18 inches long (what ever you have on hand). Clinker is not really a problem due to the size of the tuyere. Just let the fire idle for a minute or two and the clinker will solid up and can be hooked out. Ash will at times fill the down pipe and need cleaned out. I have run this forge using coal dust or breeze. Once the fuel starts to coke ( a couple of minutes into the fire ) there is very little fuel that falls into the down pipe. The next modification was to make the 55 Forge a side blast forge. Just cut a slice in the side of the wall and add an air pipe. The depth of the slice was to the top of a house brick laid on its side. It was available. The fire shown is a little shallow, so if there is a question, just add more fuel. I like this design as it is so simple to build and works. That is an aluminum clothes dryer vent pipe being used to transfer air from the blower to the forge. With the side blast version the ash and any clinker builds up under the fire. On either 55 forge, the cut edges of the metal as they are sharp. You can roll them over, or cut a 2 inch piece of metal from the parent drum, fold it in half long ways, and place it over the cut edge of the metal pan. The 55 forge was developed so that any one in any third world country could have a forge with little or no cost. The forge runs on solid fuel, coal, coke, wood, charcoal, lumbar, pallets, etc. As has been stated many times before, Fuel does not make the fire hot, Air makes the fire hot. If there is a question about how hot, then add more fuel and more air. It can and has reached welding heat. It has also melted the metal if you do not pay attention to what your doing. ( Do not ask how I know this as I was not paying attention.) The 55 Forge is a great design that is simple and works. It is easily modified to adjust the size of the fire pot, the depth of the fire pot, different tuyere configurations, and the list goes on and on. Folks thought a brake drum was needed, so I tried both a brake drum and rotor. Each has advantages and disadvantages and in the end were not required. It simply adds a level of complexity to the system and overcomplicates simple. The fun part of the 55 Forge is make one, use it, modify it as you wish. When you finish there is another 55 Forge on the other end of the drum as a spare. The label on a drum is NOT accurate, it only means that is what the drum contained just before the label was applied. I found a empty drum at a auto repair shop. The label said 5W30 motor oil with a brand I immediately recognized. Somehow the top of the drum was hooved or domed a bit. When I removed the bung plug from the bung hole there was release of pressure and an overpowering aroma of gasoline and other very volatile materials. I ask the shop manager about the drum and he said "Oh that was the one they used for racing fuel last weekend." ALWAYS choose a drum that you can pronounce what it contained before you brought it home. NEVER use anything that throws off heat or sparks when you open a closed container or drum. If in doubt, have someone else cut the drum in half while you go get a burger and fries for the both of you for lunch. The 55 Forge is just a way to get you started quickly, so you can play in the fire while you research and plan on what your second forge design will look like.
  19. While carving a burner port in an insulating fire brick last night without any power tools, I got a particle embedded in my eye. No I was not wearing safety glasses and just using a hand file. I don't know how it happened exactly. The particle was on my iris and would not flush out no matter how much water I splashed or ran across my eyeball. Fortunately, several hours later it dislodged naturally. Just a word of warning for those that don't think they need safety glasses when using hand tools.
  20. Hello all, I'm currently working on building a gas forge using a helium tank as the shell. I was planning on lining with 2" kaowool, but by my calculations, that leaves me with a larger interior volume than I expected. So I'd likely need two burners. But when I set two inlet ports on the tank, it looks crowded. Am I doing something wrong? The tank is 14" tall and 12" in diameter. About 10" of the height is the full diameter, with 2" on each end forming the end caps, so to speak. Using just the 10" straight section, and assuming a 2" lining, I'm coming up with an inner volume of about 500 cubic inches. Am I correct in thinking I'd need 2 of most types of burners, or maybe a single T-rex? Should I go for 3 inches of lining to further reduce the chamber volume? Many thanks.
  21. I've been reading on techniques for using coal in forges and I read something on a beehive fire style setup. What is this? How do I do it? Do you recommend it?
  22. I have been told that this anvil is more than likely a Trenton Anvil sold by The Bostwick & Braun Company in Toledo, Ohio which was (and is) a large hardware supply house. The stamps on the anvil look like "Z 12" on the left and "A23812" on the right.
  23. Hello guys this is my first time ever writing a forum so go easy on me. However, after searching the internet for hours I cannot find a forum on my particular problem. I am running a homemade forge with a homemade fire pot and clinker breaker. Although I have burned bituminous before, it is hard to come by and I don't particularly care for how smoky and stinky it is! So after searching, I have found a local feed store that carries anthracite for a more than reasonable price of 5$ for 50lbs. I really like how hot and clean the anthracite burns and never seems to burn down as quickly as bituminous. However, I have a problem that occurs every time I run my Forge. It works beautifully for around an hour and I can easily reach welding heat, but after this first hour it is like a light switch is flipped. I can see a bunch of unburned, black coal at the bottom of my firepot and the fire cools down considerably. After about five minutes, my coal bed looks like checkered black and white. If I scoop the cold coal out of the center, there just seems to be more coal around cooling and falling down. I don't understand what the problem is seeing how well it works in the beginning of my fire. Apparently this isn't a common problem as i cant find a forum on it anywhere. It is very frustrating and is ruingin the forging experience for me. Anything would help, and thank you all.
  24. Hi. I built a gas forge from a paint can. A lot of shortcuts were taken to save time and money. Many things were not done quite right according to helpful posts in this subgroup. The forge was lined with a homemade refractory composed of fireclay, grog, perlite, wood ash, and concrete. When it was first built, it could barely weld mild steel. Since it was outside, it eventually rusted through and the refractory collapsed. Even after repairs, it wouldn't weld. Some colleagues wanted to use it, so it looked like time for a new one.
  25. I just built a furnace, I don't even have a fuel picked out yet (post answers pending), and I want to spend as little money as possible until I get into it and know that I'll enjoy it enough to put money into a proper bellows. At the moment, would a vacuum cleaner that blows work as a bellows when connected to a steel pipe? The pipe goes into the base of the furnace so the air is blowing directly onto the coal/charcoal (again, fuel question answers are pending - Coal vs. Charcoal) in the bottom of the furnace. I'm not just using the furnace to heat metals; I'm also using it (with a crucible) to melt soft metals to cast into jewelry.