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Found 13 results

  1. Well, I finished my tire hammer so it's on to the next project. I decided that I wanted a belt grinder more versatile than my old Grizzly 2x72. I started this project last Thursday. I am using a 2.25hp treadmill and mc-60 controller. I CAD drew the platen and attachments and had a local fab shop laser cut them for me. I also had them cut a straight platen for upright work. I bought the rollers from Oregon blade maker. Very nice quality. I plan on adding a ten inch contact wheel and arm.I should have everything finished and running tomorrow. Then to build some jigs for it......
  2. Hello, new member from near Wichita, Ks. I have only been playing with smithing for a few months but find it very rewarding and therapudic. Grandfather was a blacksmith but he passes when I was only 7 so I have always had an interest in the craft but been too busy with life until now. I admit the show forged in fire did respark my interest and bring me to where I am now. I built a modified version of the freon bottle mini forge, purchased a Oregon blade maker 2x72 belt grinder, and made a striking anvil from 2 - 60# blocks of steel. I have made 5 knives learning something with every one. Not looking to start a business just enjoying experimenting and learning something about how my forefathers made their tools.
  3. I am going to make my own belt grinder, but I need to know if a 3/4 hp motor with 1750 rpm will be sufficient? Can I connect two motors to increase load weight before shutdown?
  4. Bader BM-2

    I just got the aforementioned grinder. Is there anyone making aftermarket parts or adapters that would bring this grinder up to date with is younger brother the BIII? Any and all help is much appreciated and thank you in advance for your time. In addition what is the type of frame motor that Bader uses? Sérgio "Portugee" blacksmith wannabe Black Mutt Forge Altamonte Springs, Fl
  5. DIY 2x72 grinder

    I've been working on my own grinder for a week or so now, following Dan Comeau's BG272 plans. If I would of had more time with a CNC mill I would of built a KMG clone, but ohh well. I have one question. Due to my budget, I had to get the only used motor I could find locally. A 3HP US Motors. The only downside is that the shaft is 1-1/8" and no one sells a drive wheel with that bore. Unfortunately I do not have the stock to turn a wheel this size on the lathe. Any recommendations on how to get a drive wheel fitted on the 1-1/8" shaft? Thank you. Here's some progress.
  6. belt grinder

    a late merry Christmas to everyone on I forge iron! I am looking to get belt grinder, not a little knife sharpening one, but hopefully a big industrial one, something with maybe a 4" belt or so. if any one would have a link to a good one, a recommendation, or knows of a brand/maker, it would be greatly appreciated!
  7. I'm thinking about converting my Central Machinery (harbor freight) 6X48 belt sander into a 2X72 grinder. I think the motor is on its last leg because it's bogging down much faster than I remember, and I know there's a lot of work involved, but I don't have much money for the darn thing because I fund my shop through part time shop sales. I don't exactly know where to start on this project, but I figure y'all are the best group of people to ask. Seems like a bunch of you have done home-built 2X72 jobs, and I really think the conversion would increase my productivity and allow me to work to my fullest potential. What are your thoughts? Is this project going to be more expensive than it's worth, considering the crappy quality of Harbor Freight tools? Is there an economical way to do a weld-free build? (I don't have a welder). Any and all advice is welcome.
  8. Belt Grinder Info Rabbit Holes I have been spending a lot of time looking into what it would take to have a good 2 x 72 (inch) belt grinder (e.g. KMG). I am in Eagle River (AK). Just Buy One! Maybe Not... I found that companies do not ship here, or the cost is (not surprisingly) quite high. Before doing anything particularly foolish I am looking to you all for suggestions. Make or Buy? Is there a good option... I have not found sufficient info to be comfortable making a grinder, and in my ignorance I would likely get started and end up spending "a lot of money" and be the owner of a pile of parts -- particularly since I do not have access to a machine shop or the knowledge of where to get what and how to avoid issues that an experienced person could address easily. Avoiding Mistakes By Asking For Help I have looked at a lot of information on this topic, and what I am looking for now is regionally specific guidance. I Think I Missed A Sign On The Way In Please point me to a post that us noobs often need to be directed to since I doubt i am not asking something new. If you have a belt grinder that you like are you are relatively close-by, I would appreciate the opportunity to meet you and learn a bit about what you make/repair/etc. and what resources (vendors of parts, materials, services) you find helpful. Best Wishes
  9. Hand Cranked Forge Blower Build Here are the pictures of my Hand Cranked Forge Blower Build, made using a Mole Hand Grinder found on the internet (which has a 1 to 10 gear ratio), some old side pannels off a PC, a few small rivets, some protective steel corners that came with a kitchen worktop and some 12mm Aluminium angle iron. Here are the picture's of the grinder on its own. The back piece with the right angled brackets. Starting to rivet together the fan blade using 12mm aluminium angle iron. Cutting the brackets to size and drilling the holes for the rivets. After riveting the first part of the fan case together. I then ran out of rivets but decided to continue using cardboard to check everything would work alright. The rivets I needed arrived and so the rest of the fan surround went on as well as the bolts to hold the front panel on. Here is the fan blades and mounting disk, its not perfectly balanced so does 'wobble' abit but it should be fine for the amount I will be using it. And here is the 'almost' finished blower. I ran a line of bathroom chalk around the joins on the inside of the case to cover any small gaps and the bolts hold the front on tight. I don't own a hole saw large enough to make the 80cm dia hole in the front so lots of small holes with have to do for now. All that remains is to find a piece of tubing to connect the blower to the forge and then try it out. The blower seems to be providing a reasonable amount of airflow although I think it isn't recieving enough airflow from the holes in the front. Ill try to take a video when its working and post a link to this thread. This blower has probably cost me between £40-£50 and around 30-40 hours of time, I'm a pretty slower worker but when your doing something you enjoy the time really doesn't matter. Buying a hand cranked blower in okay condition would have most likely cost £60+ but I wouldn't have learned anywhere near as much as I did by doing it myself. My original inspiration came from this thread here: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/22816-home-built-hand-blower/ If anyone has any suggestions or advice, or wants to ask any questions then by all means feel free. Thanks for reading and hopefully there isn't too many pictures, I know how much you guys enjoy them. Tom
  10. Beveling

    Hi everyone, second day of smithing... Sort of. Can I get a short tutorial on how to hammer a bevel? I don't want to grind too much and lose density in the metal. Thanks!
  11. New Grinder WIP

    Well it is almost finished ! it is a custom build KMG type grinder that I have posted a ton of times when asked the question of what grinder should I get /build many will recognize it and yes custom ! as myself and a friend have changed many things to make it more worker friendly and easier to operate . with out due here are a few photos 7 attached at this location . http://imgur.com/epQNnMW,USXNl6L,SPcTmE5,ql1lbop,8OVubzB,nAFuyaa,cAxHFF4#0 Enjoy & Best Regards Sam
  12. Hello all, I do hope this is the correct place for this question. I'm in the process of building a 2"X72" belt grinder - doing as much as possible myself - my time is cheap since I'm retired. Question about the wheels used on the grinder - The motor drive wheel I built from a 4" aluminum rod - 2" wide and flat across the top. Is flat across the top normal? OR do they have a slight crown? If so, how much of a crown - 1/8"? The tracking wheel (this is the spring loaded wheel) - I'd plan to make it from 3" diameter aluminum rod with 1/2" ID roller bearings. Question, does this tracking wheel normally have a crown? If so, how much? The two platen wheels - I'd planned 2" aluminum rod for these, and from photos I've seen they look flat across the top - of course as the other wheels the edges are "broke over" with perhaps an 1/8" (or slightly less?) radius. Thank you all for any help or suggestions. Ken H>
  13. I just finished making a 130# granite rock anvil that I cut with a 15 amp angle grinder. It has a 1/4 inch thick steel band around the surface edge to help prevent the face from chipping. It took me about 45 minutes to cut the anvil and another hour to add the steel band. I posted a couple of videos of the finished project on youtube at... . I have not forged on the anvil yet, but it does have excellent hammer rebound. I am not the first to think of using granite for an anvil; Wayne Goddard briefly discussed using a granite slab as an anvil in his 2001 book "The $50 Knife Shop." There is also a couple of videos on youtube that show a guy using a granite rock to forge a knife from a railroad spike at... . I still have to build my forge before I can test the anvil. I'm going to use my old Webber barbeque for the forge and use a hair dryer for the blower and plug it into a dimmer switch box. Of course I would love to have a steel anvil but have not been able to find one for $150 or less. The rock was free and the steel band was $7. I can't wait to give it a try! I had initially thought about making a steel anvil using 1 inch thick plates of steel (12" x 12") with a slab of 1/2" thick tool steel welded on top and a horn made of 2" thick round steel bar plates that descend from 4" in diameter down to 1" (with the plates aligned level to one another at the top). Enclosed is a photo of the finished rock anvil product.