KenH

That "H" design is good for a 16 ton press - much the same design as the Coal Iron 9 ton press they sell as a 12 ton (they use a 3" cylinder at 2550 PSI). I changed the 3" cylinder to a 4" cylinder so I could get an honest 12 ton. I do like how your dies are held in- I think that is a good design. Looking forward to seeing the next video showing the die installation and pressing some hot metal. A very good job with the build.

Since we've not heard from the OP anymore about this project I thought I'd add the following info I found today online for forklifts on the https://www.forkliftaction.com/forum/discussion-forums.aspx site. The main system relief valve pressure for lifting is 3,125 psi. This is adjusted at the relief valve on the bottom and toward the outside of the hydraulic control valve. Check pressure with the mast at maximum fork height and at full throttle. The secondary relief valve pressure for tilt and side shift is 2,250 psi. This is adjusted at the relief valve on the front of the hydraulic control valve. Just above the lift relief valve. Looks like the forklift pump should be just fine for a hydraulic press, depending on flow rate which I would suspect to be suitable since the forklift would need to operate reasonable fast.

Frosty's got it right - first of all decide what you've got, and how it will fit. Use the links in the "Press Calculations" to determine how many tons you'll have with the size of cylinder you've got. The forklift should have a control valve with "UP/DOWn" as well as the "Forward tilt/Rear tilt" functions. For a press all you'll need are the "UP/Down" controls. You might be able to plug the tilt port and use the control valve you've got. The pump on a forklift might well be a low pressure/high volume pump. With the size of the cylinder I doubt it would take much pressure to create the lift required for the forklift's load.

Frosty, I just realized you left a "0" off the end of your number of 7854 lbs - looks like a 10" cylinder with 1,000 psi give 78540 lbs of pressure - almost a 40 ton press! 10" is a huge cylinder. OR, did I miss something in my calculations?

Hello ya'll I've not posted much here, lurking more than anything and reading. I found these calculators that are handy for hydraulic press building; This one is good for determining tons from a cylinder. https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_calc.htm This one is good for speed of travel depending on ram size and GPM. The GPM used should be the low pressure GPM of the pump i.e. 13/4 gpm pump is usually 13 gpm at <600 or so PSI. Once the pressure goes about 600 or so the low speed of 4 gpm kicks in. https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_speed.htm This one is good for calculation of electric motor hp - this should be with the high pressure GPM, not the low pressure gpm for hp required. https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/motor_calc.htm I hope these are of benefit to some folks Ken H>

On the Coal Iron 12 ton (really only a 9 ton due to use of 3" cylinder) the reservoir is mounted so the oil outlet is perhaps 1/2" below the center of the hydraulic pumps inlet connector. This puts the oil level perhaps 6" to 8" above the pump inlet providing plenty of head for the pump.

I just now found this thread - GREAT job on that Sunfish, and even got the fish on the sail:) I'm an old boat bum myself, lived aboard 25+ years and raise the family on a 40 ft sailboat. I'm impressed (beyond impressed!) with your woodwork, and the hardware built from scratch. Isn't retirement great having time to do those "fun" things? My only gripe about retirement is the aches 'n pains of old age.

I'd LOVE to find a pump spec'd at 2,000 rpm or so to increase the flow rate of my press. If your pump is an 1800 rpm spec'd at 16 gpm with your 5" cylinder it would give you ~3 inches/sec travel speed which is pretty fast. My press with 4" cylinder calculates out to about 2"/sec which is "ok", but would admire to be a tad faster. A pump of 10 to 12 GPM would be just right. That wouldn't give any more tons, but faster travel. Since the die is usually not much more than 2" away from hot iron that's only 1 second travel time so it does work ok. I also wanted a small mobile press since my work area in in the backyard, and didn't wish to leave press outside all the time, so I opt'd for the Coal Iron 12 ton mounted on a cart that I roll outside when in use, and back inside when not used. You asked about cost - I purchased the Coal Iron 12 ton press so it was around $3200 shipped including the cart when I ordered a yr or so ago. I added pressure gauge and the 4" ram instead of the 3" ram it comes with, which only gives 9 ton at spec'd 2550 psi. I was only getting 8 ton since the pressure was set low at 2250 psi. I was amazed how well it worked for only 8 ton. With the 4" cylinder I'm comfortable with pushing the frame to 14 ton. Your cost of $1600 is about what I calculate cost to build a 16 to 20 ton press, especially if using the "H" frame style. I've got all the steel to build a copy of the Coal Iron "H" frame press using 3" angle rather than the 2" angle they use. I'd be very comfortable with 16 ton (maybe 18?) {g} with the new frame. This would require purchasing a new pump, motor, and control valve along with the various hoses 'n fittings. I'm thinking around another $800 to $1K to have a complete new press. BUT - that would weight a good bit more than the current press and be harder for me to roll in 'n out of storage is why I've not done it..... yet {g}. Had I known half of what I know now I would have built the press, but didn't know anything at the time. The press has been a good learning experience for me. Bubba, I've enjoyed chatting with you on this thread and exchanging ideas and knowledge.

Yep, it's amazing - but looks like crainpress.com is now for sale. That is one fancy control panel for a press.

With a 5" cylinder and 5hp motor you've got PLENTY of power for sure. What RPM is the motor? What RPM is the pump rated at 16 GPM? The "12 ton" Coal Iron press I've got has a pump spec'd at 13 GPM, but that's at 3600 rpm. Since it's got an 1800 RPM motor that gives a 6.5 GPM pump at low pressure, then it kicks into low for a much less volume flow for high pressure which is normal for 2 stage pumps. I agree with you how useful the press is - I know some folks say you need both, power hammer and press. I do think my first choice by far is the press. I think it's ok to post these links here, they are VERY helpful for press calculations. To calculate the press tons: https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_calc.htm To calculate ram speed: https://www.baumhydraulics.com/images/calculators/cyl_speed.htm

Hello Nick, I know it's been a month since you asked the question, but I just now saw the thread with no other responses. I'm surprised with the lack of response - this forum is usually a very helpful bunch. I am NOT a press expert at all, not like some of the other folks here. I've seen other presses with dual cylinders, and I sorta like the idea. A bit more complex, but you've got them on hand already and that should more than offset the extra cost of hose 'n fittings. From what I remember (very poor memory here) about the only thing you'd need to be concerned about is running the main high pressure hose close to cylinders, then have the "Y" split to be equal distance between the "Y" to each cylinder. Another point, your 16 gpm pump is "most likely" a 2 stage pump, it's rated 16 gpm at low pressure, up to around 500 to 700 psi, then it goes to low GPM, perhaps 3 or 4 gpm at high pressure. This allows the press (or log splitter) to move rapidly until resistance is met, then switch to low flow at high pressure. Good luck, and I'd like to hear how things are going with the press. I've got a Coal Iron press they call a "12 ton", but it's actually only a 9 ton since they're using a 3" cylinder at spec'd 2550 psi. When I got my press it was only 2250 psi giving 8 ton. While it did work "pretty good", I paid for 12 ton and really felt they shouldn't be false advertising like that. I wound up changing to a 4" cylinder and running at lower psi for safety to have 14 ton. Ken H>

Thanks for the replies - with the 1hp my slowest speed was around 1000 SFPM that I used for finish grinding and working on wood handles. All this is pretty new to me, and while I've done a LOT of reading/learning - I don't have much "hands on" experience so it's a real learning curve for me. I was surprised when changing the drive wheel only 1/2" changed the SFPM so much - quite a bit! Thanks to the whole group - always been very helpful to me. Ken H>

Hello all, I've got my KMG clone running pretty good on the 1hp motor - but that just is a bit on the weak side. I've got a 2hp 3450 RPM motor I'm planning to install. Running the numbers on belt speeds with a 4-step pulley, the normal 4"-3.5"-2.5"-2" size pulley. From my calculations it looks with with that type pulley (belt drive) and a 3" drive wheel, the speeds should be about 1016 FPM, 1443 FPM, 2845 FPM, and 4064 FPM. Do those calculations sound in the ball park? How do those speeds sound? Should I be trying for a different set of speeds? I know a VFD drive would be best, but that's not going to happen due to cost..... not yet anyway<:) Thank ya'll in advance for any guidance and suggestions. Ken H>

Tim, Thanks for the input - your comments agree pretty much with what I've found. As in writing sometimes, I didn't directly mention this was for heat treating - note the 1525ºF temperature mentioned. For forging I don't see any need for PID control, I just crank the forge as high as it'll go with 5 to 7 PSIG. Monitoring with the K type TC it seems about 2100ºF to 2200ºF is about max for my little forge, depending on if I've got both burners going, or just a single burner. I am wondering if the blade that's inside will see the fast swings in temp as would the bare open end of TC - I'd planned on blade lying on a nice heavy steel plate as a heatsink. I should be able to watch any slight color change of blade to see if it's holding fairly steady or swinging much as the burner is cycling off/on. I see what you mean by Dan Fogg's forge - as a blown forge it should be easier to use good PID control for. I've got most of the stuff required to add the blower to my forge, but I think I'll wait a bit. Today I used the PID control on a toaster oven I plan to use for tempering - held about ±2ºF - maybe 3 with the empty oven. Again, I think with some mass inside will help stabilize temps some. While I'm not a PID control expert, I've done a bit in chemical plants of yrs past using stand-alone controllers. For the last 15 yrs, this control has been with large DCS systems so I never got involved in that. Just amazes me that I've got a PID controller at home with the same stuff I tuned in chemical plants. Thanks again for the comments and ideas - this sure is a GREAT site. Ken H>

Answered my own question - I took a dremel tool with a fiber cutoff disk, slowly worked my way around outside cutting a shallow groove. By the time I got almost all the way around - just separated at groove. Clean break. Now I've got a 6" ceramic sharpening rod. Ken H>