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Found 37 results

  1. Greetings I. F. I. citizens, I just bumped into Mr. Nazz's & Mr. Kamamura's work shops. Check them out for a quick tour. http://www.history.com/shows/forged-in-fire/season-4/episode-21/bonus-tour-neil-and-theos-home-forges Two centers of great works, Regards, SLAG.
  2. Collaboration blanks round 4

    Heya guys, You know what time it is! Let me know if any of these blanks interest you and we'll get them into your hands. 80CrV2, already heat treated. Has a fun lanyard hole/loop that'll provide an extra challenge. A customer already has their eye on this one - I would need you to finish it and slap my provided micarta on. We will agree on how to divide profits privately. Email at [email protected] TheoRockNazz.com 1095 fighter, already heat treated. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics) 80CrV2 cleaver/chopper... clopper?..cheaver? Already head treated. Has inverted distal taper. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics) 1095 thick chef's knife, heat treated with temper line. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics)
  3. Alright so for my name I was going with JB Custom Knives. But that got taken so I went with JBowen knives but its taken too. I already have a touch mark with JB on it so I would like a new name that has JB in it or starts with that. Does anyone have a new name in mind?
  4. Hello, new member from near Wichita, Ks. I have only been playing with smithing for a few months but find it very rewarding and therapudic. Grandfather was a blacksmith but he passes when I was only 7 so I have always had an interest in the craft but been too busy with life until now. I admit the show forged in fire did respark my interest and bring me to where I am now. I built a modified version of the freon bottle mini forge, purchased a Oregon blade maker 2x72 belt grinder, and made a striking anvil from 2 - 60# blocks of steel. I have made 5 knives learning something with every one. Not looking to start a business just enjoying experimenting and learning something about how my forefathers made their tools.
  5. Well, I finished my tire hammer so it's on to the next project. I decided that I wanted a belt grinder more versatile than my old Grizzly 2x72. I started this project last Thursday. I am using a 2.25hp treadmill and mc-60 controller. I CAD drew the platen and attachments and had a local fab shop laser cut them for me. I also had them cut a straight platen for upright work. I bought the rollers from Oregon blade maker. Very nice quality. I plan on adding a ten inch contact wheel and arm.I should have everything finished and running tomorrow. Then to build some jigs for it......
  6. Hi everyone! I just started smithing literally days ago. Never hammered on steel or knew anything about it. Being obsessed with the show Forged in Fire I set out to build a propane forge and start practicing. This morning I lit the forge and placed in a piece of 3/4" round (no idea of the grade but it does weld easily???). Took me about 4hrs but I got a rough knife shaped object out of it. I kind of let steel do what it wanted too until a shape appeared. I found it fairly difficult to move the steel and make a flat from the round bar. Any suggestions to help improve? Maybe ways or places to strike that you have found to draw material out more easily (width I was able to figure out but lengthing was almost impossible). Many thanks and I hope to participate in this forum more often as I grow as a Smith.
  7. Collaboration blanks round 6

    This batch is half new stuff, half stuff I couldn't get rid of before... please take them off my hands, haha If you've already laid claim to one let me know and I'll finally put it in the mail lol
  8. Student knives

    I decided to just make a new topic for student work because they have been cranking them out lately! Usually their first knives are 1095 with some sort of micarta/G10/synthetic. Everyone has been so creative with even with that limitation - I think that's the nature of teaching youth, they are inventive! One of my more recent students said something that really stuck with me: "Some day I'm going to give this to my kid". That's what it's all about
  9. Today I finished the first of two Kelly Carlson blades I was given by two collectors to complete. Kelly passed several years ago, and his son recently started selling and giving away his father's unfinished blades, tools, materials, etc.. This bowie is very hard mystery stainless that was already buffed when I received it. I forged the guard from mild steel, and the pommel is a tapped mild steel ball that I did some shaping on - both were media blasted then sealed. I welded a threaded rod to the base of the blade and assembled the guard, caribou antler, and aluminum as if it was a take-down construction but used JB weld everywhere so it ain't coming apart. It was a bit strange working on another smith's blade. His grinds are perfect, but I have no clue what his plans were for the handle, so I am sure I ruined whatever the original flow was supposed to be haha. The customer/collector was very happy with my "rough" addition to an otherwise clean and crisp blade - he likes my brut de forge style. Comments and critique always welcome. I would be interested in hearing if anyone else ever worked on another smith's blade, especially if he/she had already passed.
  10. Stampede commission

    Ethan here, The last couple of months have kept me busy with and order a commission from the Calgary stampede. After making my first Damascus knife back in January, my mother had posted it on Facebook, which usually I'm not happy about but I no longer think that way... But s keen eye saw that post and took it to a committee at the Calgary stampede and they liked what they saw. Next thing you know I have a deal with them for 12, 9 inch long Damascus knives. Specifically, they are for the brand consignment, for the world auctioneer championships. This is my first "large" commission order and I'm pleasantly surprised with the outcome. They are a very simple drop point design, but I've been carrying a smaller one I made and I love it. I know y'all are going to be wondering what type of wood it is, and I'm sad to say I really don't know. I know that it is a very very hard "Rosewood quote that grows in Asia and I really like how it looks. I think the name also includes all 26 letters of the alphabet but I will try and find it out anyway looking forward to all of your experienced eyes to critique it ! I also have 12 steak Turner's to go with the knives, but I am putting them in the blacksmithing section of this for him to avoid combining topics:)
  11. Is it just me, or is this knife begging for a clip point?
  12. Hello all, new to this forum and I was hoping I could get some advice. I am really interested in Smithing and I would like to pick up this hobby, and I have some questions. I am going to start building my forge. I was thinking about welding two 20 pound propane tanks together. I plan on making knives and small swords/machetes and the likes. I plan on lining it with 2 inches of kaowool with firebrick on the bottom and adding a door and all that. It is going to be a propane forge. My first question is will this forge need 2 burners? Or just one? I know there are different kinds of burners. Am I going overkill on size? Should I just use one 20 pound tank? What size anvil should I be looking for? And I am aware that a belt grinder is the best tool for grinding the blades, but I'm trying to save money because I'm buying a pistol soon. Would a bench grinder suffice if I use a softer stone? Sorry for all of the questions I just want to do things right.
  13. Maker's Mark.... Registry?

    HI all, I have been putting off making or buying a maker's mark for some time now. My problem, which will lead to a question, is in the simplicity of the mark that I am leaning toward. Two letters SB in a "rune" style font that should be easy to make or have made. For obvious reasons I'm worried that someone else might be utilizing something close enough to this that they might take offense or, at the least, it could cause confusion. I'd rather not get in the business of calling people up to remove a mark or having to explain to someone why I didn't put a little time into confirming that my mark was actually my mark. Any help would be appreciated. Also, I am open to alternative suggestions for a mark. I am looking to keep it simple. I can provide more info about myself if someone just really enjoys designing marks.haha
  14. I have currently been working on two different blades since the "First Knife" post; one I've been working on since before this summer, and another I just started a couple weeks ago. NUMBER 1: I call it the backyard Bichaq, because the design was inspired by an Ottoman Bichaq I saw in a book on knives. As you can see, it is very close to finish: the only two processes left for the bladework are quenching and tempering. Given that this is effectively a first time father-son project, it's (in my mind) very good for a first time. What do any of the more seasoned bladesmiths here think? The Backyard Bichaq is partially double edged; the upper edge is much shorter that the lower edge. It already has holes drilled into the tang for brass pins, and I plan on fitting it with a walnut-scale handle and a brass guard. it is about 9.2-3in. long NUMBER 2: This one I call the Backyard Baselard. As you can see, it has been shaped in the forge extensively but is relatively fresh to filework. It has sustained some slight cracking and material loss as a result of its thinness, and is slightly warped towards the tip, but I have faith it will make for a great blade. If it breaks, I will just file it down shorter. Again, do any of the more seasoned bladesmiths want to share their opinions on this one? I have plans to fit it using a partial "Baselard" Hilt using two guards to produce the "I" shape that dagger type is famous for. One I have plans to fashion myself (out of copper) and the other I saw in a catalog from Jantz Supply. The rest of the handle will probably be either walnut, kirinite, or (if me and my dad are feeling ambitious) some African Blackwood we bought a while back at the same place we got the walnut (because it was on sale). The baselard is about 12.5in. long So, what do you think? Given that I jumped into the complex process of bladesmithing the first opportunity I got, did these turn out very well given the time, effort, and work I put into them?
  15. Hi there! This is my first post and I'm Looking to make a custom Yari spear. Although it's a pretty simple concept, I do not like the looks of mass produced spears online. And FULL custom spears from oustanding guys like Miller Bros Blades is really (really- really) expensive ...Therefore why not make a custom one. Goal: A really durable tactical fighting spear. my concept:***5ft ' 3in carbon fiber pole Diameter: 1 1/2" -filled with a wood pole thats 1.25'' in diameter I like carbon fiber and think it's a good material for practicing your forms while still being light and strong enough to hold its own against wood. Ofcourse not many recommend it since wood is proven true to be the best material (and theres a reason we still use wood bo staffs today folks). Good wood gives you Weight, sturdiness, flexibility in a staff. However, recently I got inspired by a thread i read at a different site about filling a carbon fiber pole (air tight) with a wood of some kind (like ash, wax, hickory,..etc.). Blade : Custom 9" z wear pm steel / double edge blade. Pretty tough steel.Overall Length: 6ft (I'm 5'11)Other custom ideas like a "Reinforced Steel end cap" and "steel braces" on each end will be worked on as the setup gos.What are y'all thoughts on this? Might turn out just as cool as it will be fun. Also could use some tips on how the blade can be secured in the tubing without looking Tarzan made lol. P.s. I'll attach images of what i want the spear to look very similar too. Its a full custom spear made by Miller Bros Blades. (The spear tubing from the photos attached are also carbon fiber but hollow.)
  16. Where is the best place to buy steel

    Good day, I have been making knives as a hobby to make a little bit of money, but I have always used materials like saw blades and things like that for my knives. I am wanting to get into making some out of stainless steel, as there have been a few who have asked for that. Now that leads me to the question of what steel would be best, I am wanting a not too expensive, but fairly good quality steel which is not too hard to machine. I work with very few tools, and my belt sander is only a hand belt sander mounted upside-down. For my customers it is a selling point, as they want to support the small guy. Thanks for your input! Seth Lancaster
  17. Making knives from old tools

    I have a collection of antique tools. I have some old ice block tongs and I was curious. If I make a k ife out of them will it harden they seem to be made of the same metal that old cotton scale balances and hooks were made of. Also I have some old monkey wrenches I want to make knives out of. I have no experience in metal working of any sort.
  18. So I have a little problem and I am kind of stymied... I bought a bundle of various sized 52100 round stock a few years ago at a blacksmithing event, can't remember the details at the moment. I just recently pulled it out and tested a small piece for a slipjoint knife build. I forged the shape, ground it to near the final thickness, normalized and hardened. Low and behold I barely get 50 HRC... Did it a second time and got virtually the same result---------so I see 3 possibilities: I got sold something that isn't 52100, my heat treat process was totally wrong, or I had massive decarb. I don't think decarb is really the issue because I ground away the surface steel and put a wash of satanite on before the hardening (the second round was done without the satanite just in case that had botched the quench, but results were the same). My heat treatment may have been a bit off, but I still wouldn't expect to get such low hardness. Here is the procedure I used: 2 normalizing cycles at about 1475, held for about 2-3 minutes then air cooled. Bring up to 1500 then hold for 10-15 minutes and quench in 125 degree cooking oil--------as quenched hardness was only 50 HRC. My temperature control should be pretty good, I use a thermocouple in my forge to monitor temp during heat treats. I also used a similar process to harden some W1 (with shorter soaking times) at the same time and I got a hardness of 65 HRC. So, any ideas what might be going wrong???
  19. Timeline of My Knives

    I'm a new member here and I thought this may be a good place to put a timeline of my blades for all to see and give input on. I've been a stock remover for about a year now but have only been a blacksmith for a month or two at this point in time. This first picture is the first blade I've forged. The only time I used the grinder was to clean up the grind some and sharpen it. This second picture is the next blade I forged. I made it out of some blister steel (that's a whole other story) an completely forged it, bevels and all. Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more! I usually can get a couple done per week so I'll try to stay as up to date as I can. Feel free to give me feedback! no this was not a good place, we have a knife section, I will relocate for you.
  20. Hey everybody, looking to start forging knives from Rebar/Railroad Spikes (At least until I feel comfortable to move up to proper materials) But i've a few questions and this place seems to be the best place to ask. First can I start by saying I'm from Ireland, I know this is an American forum but yous still know your stuff Now in general I know Rebar is a bit of a nono, but if I were to use it, is there anything that I should do with it to make it good for putting an edge on it etc? And about the railroad spikes, would they be found on old Tram Lines too? Also is an everyday Hammer okay to use for hammering a piece of Rebar (OR any steel) into a knife shape etc? And finally, I have no power tools but a drill, without any machinery to grind a sharp edge or clean the steel, whats my best bet? Is buying the machinery a must? I only want to do this as a hobby, not a business so I want to spend as little as possible . Any and all tips, links and advice would be VERY much appreciated, cheers!
  21. Some Recent WIP Knives

    Hello everyone, Now that the weather has been nicer than before (we've had a lot of rain on my few days off), I was able to fire up the forge and the grinder again to get rolling on some new (to me) bladesmithing projects! This was a knife I started earlier this year on my little Horrible Freight anvil and my one brick forge (heating by a plumber's torch). I'm surprised I was even able to get this far with it! It's changed a lot since this photo was taken back in January(see below). Three knives here, immediately after quenching in canola oil and before being thrown into the oven for heat treating. The top one is a bit of a joke that I made via stock removal after watching the trailer for Jurassic World too many times in theatres and remembering the opening scene of the first movie (my wife thinks it's more like a moustache, thus the angle for the photo). Made from W-2, original stock was 8" x 1.5" x 0.187". Since the blade is a bit of a joke, I might pick up some paracord and start using that for handles, just to try it out and learn how to make some handles via knots (at least until I get a more permanent shop with woodworking supplies). Anyone have any tips for knots/approaches? The middle one is my first attempt at a bush knife. Did a lot of tinkering with it and had to cut off the point (didn't get the right angles), but the rounded blade makes this one a bit more interesting (and a nice chopper to to blade-heavy balance). Made from the same W-2, measuring 8" x 1.5" x 0.187".Yes, I did hammer the 1.5 inches down to that little taper you see there. Some people think it's crazy, I thought it was a fun experiment. That, and I wanted to really test out the 134# Hay Budden I bought earlier this year, so what better way than with an awesome knife concept? The bottom knife is the blade I showed above, after some creative grinding. Before it was a little too odd shape-wise (big belly), so after chatting with JWS about it, I cut it down to this triangular-shaped kitchen knife. This one is made of 1084, originally measuring 8" x 1" x 0.187". This one I'm not really proud of, but I did learn from it. The goal of this was to practice making a double edged blade due to a sword class I'm taking next week (no, I do not have any delusions of leaving with a sword, just learning how to make one and possibly learn some transferable skills). Didn't really turn out as planned (especially the tip), but I learned from a few mistakes here and should be able to grind it into something useful at the very least. Not sure what I'm going to do with the handle yet due to lack of woodworking supplies, but I'm sure I'll think of something beyond a twist! I'll snap more photos after they are cleaned up/polished. If I luck out, I can start again on Wednesday. Otherwise, it's just a matter of when I can get outside around my work schedule and not be fined for noise as I set up in the yard ^^;
  22. Packaging and shipping knives

    Hello gents, So I've been working at this new lasercutting shop for about three months now, and have been taking advantage of their scrap material. Designed and cut some boxes for shipping finished knives. They use toothed dovetails that have to be soft-hammered together, but then never come apart. The big box needs serious work, I've got to make the spacing of the dovetails wider, it's too hard to hammer together without risking splintering. The folders are these guys http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/42242-patternwelded-bronze-beast-liner-lock-san-mai-razor/ and the other knife is just an old forging. Got me thinking, what other methods (besides the standard padded zipper-pouch) do you guys use? I've seen some beautiful boxes that are art themselves. I roll them with canvas, but there's probably a better option...? Comments and critique always appreciated, Theo
  23. I posted a message (here on I Forge Iron) asking for some insight when I was given some "to be discarded" wood planer blades. The responses were very helpful and encouraging. Since I cannot heat treat the metal (that seems to have been) used to make these blades, I have started making some quick little project knives to help me learn more about knife making and working with hardened steel. So far I have made two little knife like objects that are both even useful. The planer Blades are approximately 12.5 inches x 0.75 inches x 0.06 inches. The blades a laminated M2 Steel. As I understand so far, M2 steel is more hard than it is tough so I will avoid using it for applications requiring impact resistance -- or where failure is likely to lead to injury or death.
  24. I tempered my first knife a day ago at about 400 degrees( my toaster oven only goes by hundreds of degrees). I put it in the oven and left it there for two hours. When i pulled it out it came out looking like a rainbow.What did i do wrong? I've spent some time thinking about it and i've come up with a few ideas as to why that happened. I put the knife in the oven diagonally because that was the only way it would fit, the middle of the knife turned blue right where that knife rested, above the heating element, on the rack.The blue is interrupted by a bronze strip exactly where the knife rested above the heating element. The reason i'm wondering what happened is because i thought at 400 degrees the whole knife would take on a straw color not any other color let alone a rainbow of most of the oxidation colors. Can anyone help me understand what happened? Should i continue with another tempering cycle, or should i start over and re-harden the blade and try again?
  25. Question for you guys, I make keychains from old ornate ss butter knives. I cut the handle drill a hole polish it up and throw a key ring on it. I got the idea when I got my 51 dodge I ordered a knife from eBay that was made in 51 so it would match the year of my car. I also make knives from 01tool steel. So I was thinking can I hammer out the rest of the handle into a small blade? That way I could put a handle on the old butter end and make little wood carving blades. Can it be done? I would rather use this steel rather then pitch it.