Don Shears

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About Don Shears

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    Trenton Ontario Canada

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  1. If you can find a copy of "IRON MENAGERIE" by the Guild of Metalsmiths, the Introduction pages (all two of them) give the shapes and dimensions for the various basic tools* used in shaping decorative animal heads and figurines. * - eye and other punches, fullers, and chisels. Which certainly can be used on other projects.
  2. My non-scientific guess with no measurements and only one picture (though the pink coffee cup in the background gives some scale) is the moving jaw of a vise, more likely a machinists then woodworkers.
  3. I haven't used files for fire steels. Instead I use (horse drawn) dump rake tines for making both fire steels and small knives/letter openers. Junk yard steel chart lists them as 1090. Can draw decent sparks using chert after a quench in water from orange heat and no tempering. But having read dickb's post, go with the magnet test (more accurate then eye) and quench. Attached are a couple of images. The tines are 5/16 inch dia. Styles obviously differ with manufacturer. The square is 12 inches on the outside of the long arm.
  4. Assembled/fabricated a brass spool holder for my spouse's sewing machine. No blacksmithing, just some basic shop skills and time with polish and rags. Designed to hold the over-sized spools of specialty threads she likes to use. Made from odds and sods brass bits I've accumulated over the past decade or so. I also glued a piece of cork gasket sheet on the bottom to protect the table top. Picture on the wood table top has a Canadian one dollar (loonie) coin for scale; the other has the holder at the sewing table sitting on a cutting mat with a 1 inch grid. Total weight is just under 3.2 pounds. Merry Christmas all.
  5. My two cents (best guess) on this is a saw set for the teeth of two person cross cut saws. The teeth on those saws are usually about 2" long on a new saw.
  6. My NSWAG (Non-Scientific Wild A$$ Guesses) include (tool wise) a reamer for either a cooper or a wheelwright. Or a scraper/cleaning tool for a foundry. For a cooper - to clean up the bung holes on casks. Wheelwright - cleaning up the axle holes in wheel hubs. Foundry - cleaning of large castings with deep recesses. (Think of the wheels on the railroad steam engines, or larger castings for the flywheels on stationary steam engines. I'm more likely wrong then right on this. Don
  7. My 2 cents - Weather vane Mast/Support pole (?) The copper plating should tarnish to a nice green. Or use some as a trade item/Iron in the Hat offering at the local BS meeting(s). And just like here, ask those folks for suggestions.
  8. Last Sunday my wife and I went for a afternoon drive and a walk on the beach (North shore of Lake Ontario.) With the high water levels this year areas that had 20 to 30 feet of beach can be down to 6, leaving you the choice to either wade or take the obstacle course. Anyways with the heavy wave action on the shore quite a bit of the shore scree has been churned up. Came home with a piece of wrought iron about 42 by 1 1/4 by 1/4 inches. Either a runner from a sled or part of a buggy tire (two visible forge welds and there could be other welds that are not so visible. Also found a brace or bracket? 3 stamped clips and a cone of 1/8 inch sheet. For scale the pavers are roughly 8 1/4 by 6 3/4 inches. I do want to go back, there's about 30 plus feet of 1/2 inch steel cable washed with the remains of a boat dock. Don
  9. Both tool are saw sets. I have several of other styles. Both have adjustments for length of the saw tooth and angle. If you take a close look at the cutting teeth of a traditional western wood workers saw you'll see that they lean out slightly past the sides of the blade. This is to prevent the saw blade from binding in the cut. I've never sharpened any of my own saws, just have a idea of the principles. Don
  10. In the summer of 2007 I was in Reims, France. Incredible variety of iron work styles all around the central part of the city. This is due to the reconstruction after WWI, where some folks had their homes/property (buildings) rebuilt as they looked before the war, or had (at that time) modern buildings put up to replace the destroyed or too damaged. So the styles range from Medieval to Art Deco. Plus the Notre-Dame de Reims Cathedral is a UN World Heritage site well worth looking at. In Paris, if your into armour, there's the Musée de l'Armée. Lots (and I do mean lots) of suits of armour. Plus ancient arms to very modern. There's also Guédelon Castle in Treigny, France. It's the site of the construction of a 13th century French castle using only techniques known at the time. This castle is the subject of the BBC TV series "Secrets of the Castle." There's also the Maison de l'Outil (House of Tools) in the city of Troyes (about 100 km) south of Reims. I haven't been there, but slightly regret the missed opportunity. Enjoy your trip where ever you decide to go. Don
  11. For the most part that's true; but they're great for heavy aircraft maintenance, as part of a group for pulling/installing major panels and floor boards. A couple of the crew starting removal/insertion with screwdrivers followed by others with the speeders. Saves time, wrists, and stripped screw-heads compared to air tools.
  12. Realistic Blacksmithing in a Movie - Smoothbore, in response to your question, check out the opening sequence of the Russell Crowe film (1993) "Hammers Over the Anvil." The camera view is primarily shot at about the height of the of the anvil face, and follows a farrier making a horseshoe from bar stock.
  13. ianinsa - I had to think a bit about potential uses for a while. I finally remembered the use of a lead bath for tempering blades, springs, chisels and punches. I saw this technique demonstrated over ten years ago by Lloyd Johnston, another smith who lives in my region of Ontario, Canada. Lloyd used a lead bath over his coal forge to temper a replacement spring he had made for a leg vice. It's difficult to maintain a low steady temp over a coal forge to keep the lead from fuming (definitely not healthy), so the electric temperature control is a bonus. The disadvantage of the pot you have is the small overall size and shape of the pot. Since the temperature is a known, as is the mass being tempered, time becomes a more predictable variable. Not an ideal repurposing of the tinning pot, but the best of what I've been coming up with. Cheers. Don
  14. Reminds me of a 'tinning' pot used for dip tinning of electronics wiring. A quantity of solder (63/37 lead/tin alloy usually) was melted in the pot. The insulation of circuit connection wires for solder cup connectors. Ends were pre-stripped to the correct amount of exposed conductor (either bare or tinned copper) needed, the end was dipped in liquid rosin flux followed by dipping in the liquid solder. Then the wiring harness was built up. It's an older style of labour intensive assembly technique that's pretty much phased out. Was shown and taught the technique in trade school 30 plus years ago and I've never used since. Don
  15. I have a similar style struck tool, they're used for sharpening/re-shaping the cutting bits of pneumatic drills, used in mining/rock quarrying. There was an example included as part of a display in the Royal British Columbia Museum, Victoria B.C. Canada. I do have pictures, but not on file in the laptop I'm currently using.