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Don Shears

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About Don Shears

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    Trenton Ontario Canada

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  1. TJD; all the advice above is sound, use PP&E including apron (or welding jacket) and keep the guard on! Adding to the above, make sure that the disks/flap wheel, etc. you're installing has a maximum rpm that meets or better yet exceeds that of the angle grinder. I only have two angle grinders, so disks/wheels change as as tasks require. As a personal habit anytime when a new or partly used disk or wire wheel is (re)installed, with PP&E on, I turn on the AG and let it run without load for at least 30 seconds. If it's not properly installed, or there is a hidden flaw or crack in the disk or wheel it usually shows up as heavy vibration or dramatic failure (Note - keep by-standers at a distance.) I also follow this rule any time I'm away from the grinder for a while (out of sight, coffee/meal breaks, call of nature) or the AG having been in storage/transit for a period of time. Treated with respect, angle grinders are a great and versatile tool to have in one's kit.
  2. A quick question on this subject - how do you remove the valves? On the 20 pound tanks are the valves left or right hand threaded? How much force is needed to break the thread seal i.e. 18 inch pipe wrench or a 6 foot cheater bar on a pipe wrench? Cheers; Don
  3. JHCC - Thank you for the splicing instructions. I bought a 4 by 108 belt grinder last Oct. but no belts. Suppliers for that size are rare (also I'm minding my cash flow during the current situation.) Your instructions show that the splicing isn't as complex as I'd originally thought. I'd like to confirm the splice angle as 20 degrees (a protractor held onto the laptop screen is only so accurate.)
  4. After initially reading this thread a few weeks ago, I started keeping a mental record of activity and flue temps at my forge. My forge is coal/coke fueled, bottom draft. Chimney arrangement is a stainless steel 'super-sucker' side draft feeding a galvanized 10 inch HVAC duct going vertical 20 feet. Several years ago I installed a BBQ thermometer about 14 inches above the inlet. I made a SWAG that thermometer accuracy is +/_ 50 F. When working small stock (up to 5/8 inch) indication is between 100 and 150 F. For forge welding with me cranking the blower steadily I can hit around 400 F indicated.
  5. Well, like many I've been pretty much doing the isolation thing. And like so many with the warming weather spending more time in my (currently unheated) shop. I've put in time working on several projects. Handle for salvaged brass shovel head; matching poker for the shovel; flux spoon with attempt at brass inflow; repair of a fire poker; wedge for a post vise mount; fire steel; handle for a brush; hanger for bird feeders; and a sample 'S' hook for my wife to approve for her flower baskets. For scale the plywood sheet is about 28 inches wide. The repair of the poker was needed after making it during a demo, I missed seeing a hacksaw cut about mid length. That was last fall so I got over zealous filing the rust out of the cut making it too big to just fill with brazing rod. Solution was to slightly dovetail the notch and make a fill piece from a salvaged square nail for brazing into place. Makes an interesting piece to examine after cleaning up with a file. In early April I picked up as BS roadkill a new, but broken file. By it's condition it was brand new with no signs of use or rusting, but the tang and an inch or two of the teeth had snapped off. This is my first attempt at this style of fire steel, it's roughly 5 inches end to end. Flint, chert, and quartz all draw sparks easily. Even tried a golf ball size clinker and that drew sparks as well! I've several other WIP that I will post pictures of later. Don
  6. Swedefiddle (Neil), SLAG - I stand/sit corrected, not high carbon, but certainly enough to be hardened. There's been plenty of discussion threads here on IFI about these. Good for making hammers, struck and hardy tools. Quite a few need re-pointing and I haven't done a spark test yet. The idea of talking to a contractor has occurred to me, just haven't followed up. The pneumatic drill rods are cut-offs, of different lengths and flat to flat sizes. I will have to clean out the air/lube channels before doing any cutting/forging. I do not want any nasty surprises. Thomas - congrat's on getting work closer to home. As a sidebar, at another auction I met up with another fellow (a retired geologist) with a disreputable red hat (sans horns!)
  7. I had the winning bid on a lot of pavement breaker points and related items at a local auction last week. All up cost was just under CDN$180 (or under $2 a piece) The lot covered two standard (4 ft by 4 ft) pallets. Took me about ten minutes to hand load into my truck with help from one of the staff. The shanks are a mix of 2 1/8 inch and 2 1/4 inch flat to flat hex. There are 69 pyramid points, 13 with cut off ends, 9 chisel points, 5 wedges, 2 spade tips, a tamper, and what I believe to be a pipe or post driver. Also included were 3 pieces if pneumatic drill shaft, a 2 ft long (octagonal stock) chisel, 2 jack hammers, and 4 sections of air line. The challenge now is coming up with a way to store this before the snow arrives. But I now certainly have enough high carbon stock to last me a long time.
  8. If you can find a copy of "IRON MENAGERIE" by the Guild of Metalsmiths, the Introduction pages (all two of them) give the shapes and dimensions for the various basic tools* used in shaping decorative animal heads and figurines. * - eye and other punches, fullers, and chisels. Which certainly can be used on other projects.
  9. My non-scientific guess with no measurements and only one picture (though the pink coffee cup in the background gives some scale) is the moving jaw of a vise, more likely a machinists then woodworkers.
  10. I haven't used files for fire steels. Instead I use (horse drawn) dump rake tines for making both fire steels and small knives/letter openers. Junk yard steel chart lists them as 1090. Can draw decent sparks using chert after a quench in water from orange heat and no tempering. But having read dickb's post, go with the magnet test (more accurate then eye) and quench. Attached are a couple of images. The tines are 5/16 inch dia. Styles obviously differ with manufacturer. The square is 12 inches on the outside of the long arm.
  11. Assembled/fabricated a brass spool holder for my spouse's sewing machine. No blacksmithing, just some basic shop skills and time with polish and rags. Designed to hold the over-sized spools of specialty threads she likes to use. Made from odds and sods brass bits I've accumulated over the past decade or so. I also glued a piece of cork gasket sheet on the bottom to protect the table top. Picture on the wood table top has a Canadian one dollar (loonie) coin for scale; the other has the holder at the sewing table sitting on a cutting mat with a 1 inch grid. Total weight is just under 3.2 pounds. Merry Christmas all.
  12. My two cents (best guess) on this is a saw set for the teeth of two person cross cut saws. The teeth on those saws are usually about 2" long on a new saw.
  13. My NSWAG (Non-Scientific Wild A$$ Guesses) include (tool wise) a reamer for either a cooper or a wheelwright. Or a scraper/cleaning tool for a foundry. For a cooper - to clean up the bung holes on casks. Wheelwright - cleaning up the axle holes in wheel hubs. Foundry - cleaning of large castings with deep recesses. (Think of the wheels on the railroad steam engines, or larger castings for the flywheels on stationary steam engines. I'm more likely wrong then right on this. Don
  14. My 2 cents - Weather vane Mast/Support pole (?) The copper plating should tarnish to a nice green. Or use some as a trade item/Iron in the Hat offering at the local BS meeting(s). And just like here, ask those folks for suggestions.
  15. Last Sunday my wife and I went for a afternoon drive and a walk on the beach (North shore of Lake Ontario.) With the high water levels this year areas that had 20 to 30 feet of beach can be down to 6, leaving you the choice to either wade or take the obstacle course. Anyways with the heavy wave action on the shore quite a bit of the shore scree has been churned up. Came home with a piece of wrought iron about 42 by 1 1/4 by 1/4 inches. Either a runner from a sled or part of a buggy tire (two visible forge welds and there could be other welds that are not so visible. Also found a brace or bracket? 3 stamped clips and a cone of 1/8 inch sheet. For scale the pavers are roughly 8 1/4 by 6 3/4 inches. I do want to go back, there's about 30 plus feet of 1/2 inch steel cable washed with the remains of a boat dock. Don
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