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Don Shears

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About Don Shears

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    Trenton Ontario Canada

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    Trenton Ontario

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  1. That's a good deal for both of you. You didn't have to buy it and they didn't pay for someone to haul it away. Do be glad they're not a fish and chips place (raccoons will come from miles away) - Don
  2. Coming in late on this thread; I've noticed no mention of hearing protection (a high possibility I missed it.) Anyways, with my three (now not so young) children I made the point that PPE was to be worn for work in the shop and with power equipment (including when mowing the lawn.) For hearing protection they had the choice to use what they found comfortable, all three chose ear muff style (vice in-ear foam plugs, or the band types.) So give them the no exceptions rule on the PPE, but the choice of which type so long as it meets (your) requirements.
  3. These followed me home in the last 10 days: BS Road kill picked up just past a railway crossing - broken leaf spring is 5/16" by 2" stock still with factory paint. Various tools from the local Restore $2 each. As a curiosity the 6" adjustable wrench was made for a farrier supply business. Not shown, the $5 handled cold chisel, hand forged with ~2" wide cutting edge. Nor some the metal pieces from some horse drawn farm equipment I've been given permission to salvage.
  4. JHCC - check the National Film Board of Canada website, search for canoe - one film that comes up is "Cesar's Bark Canoe." Could that be the one you saw? Don
  5. Neil; I usually tell folks 'Blacksmiths measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with a chainsaw, and hammer to fit.' Don
  6. My best guess is an adjustable width hold-down for a carpenters bench. Cheers, Don
  7. Matt; the lower stamping reads to me as Stourbridge, a town in Black County, west of Birmingham (and near Dudley - a major center of anvil production in the UK.) I've done some internet searching and found a listing for an Eveson & Son's anvil on 'Worthpoint' (an antique price tracking site, possibly for ebay?) Anyways with what I can gleam from your pictures, the info on that site meshes with the manufacturer and location. Cheers, Don
  8. To answer "anyone got a Dudley anvil??"; I've got two anvils from Dudley, an Attwood and a Wilkinson. I personally don't have any old hooks. Here (in Ontario, Canada) the farmers and loggers would likely have repurposed those broken or damaged hooks, or tossed them into the scrap resource pile.
  9. TJD; all the advice above is sound, use PP&E including apron (or welding jacket) and keep the guard on! Adding to the above, make sure that the disks/flap wheel, etc. you're installing has a maximum rpm that meets or better yet exceeds that of the angle grinder. I only have two angle grinders, so disks/wheels change as as tasks require. As a personal habit anytime when a new or partly used disk or wire wheel is (re)installed, with PP&E on, I turn on the AG and let it run without load for at least 30 seconds. If it's not properly installed, or there is a hidden flaw or cr
  10. A quick question on this subject - how do you remove the valves? On the 20 pound tanks are the valves left or right hand threaded? How much force is needed to break the thread seal i.e. 18 inch pipe wrench or a 6 foot cheater bar on a pipe wrench? Cheers; Don
  11. JHCC - Thank you for the splicing instructions. I bought a 4 by 108 belt grinder last Oct. but no belts. Suppliers for that size are rare (also I'm minding my cash flow during the current situation.) Your instructions show that the splicing isn't as complex as I'd originally thought. I'd like to confirm the splice angle as 20 degrees (a protractor held onto the laptop screen is only so accurate.)
  12. After initially reading this thread a few weeks ago, I started keeping a mental record of activity and flue temps at my forge. My forge is coal/coke fueled, bottom draft. Chimney arrangement is a stainless steel 'super-sucker' side draft feeding a galvanized 10 inch HVAC duct going vertical 20 feet. Several years ago I installed a BBQ thermometer about 14 inches above the inlet. I made a SWAG that thermometer accuracy is +/_ 50 F. When working small stock (up to 5/8 inch) indication is between 100 and 150 F. For forge welding with me cranking the blower steadily I can hit around 400 F ind
  13. Well, like many I've been pretty much doing the isolation thing. And like so many with the warming weather spending more time in my (currently unheated) shop. I've put in time working on several projects. Handle for salvaged brass shovel head; matching poker for the shovel; flux spoon with attempt at brass inflow; repair of a fire poker; wedge for a post vise mount; fire steel; handle for a brush; hanger for bird feeders; and a sample 'S' hook for my wife to approve for her flower baskets. For scale the plywood sheet is about 28 inches wide. The repair of the poker was needed after m
  14. Swedefiddle (Neil), SLAG - I stand/sit corrected, not high carbon, but certainly enough to be hardened. There's been plenty of discussion threads here on IFI about these. Good for making hammers, struck and hardy tools. Quite a few need re-pointing and I haven't done a spark test yet. The idea of talking to a contractor has occurred to me, just haven't followed up. The pneumatic drill rods are cut-offs, of different lengths and flat to flat sizes. I will have to clean out the air/lube channels before doing any cutting/forging. I do not want any nasty surprises. Thomas - congrat's on g
  15. I had the winning bid on a lot of pavement breaker points and related items at a local auction last week. All up cost was just under CDN$180 (or under $2 a piece) The lot covered two standard (4 ft by 4 ft) pallets. Took me about ten minutes to hand load into my truck with help from one of the staff. The shanks are a mix of 2 1/8 inch and 2 1/4 inch flat to flat hex. There are 69 pyramid points, 13 with cut off ends, 9 chisel points, 5 wedges, 2 spade tips, a tamper, and what I believe to be a pipe or post driver. Also included were 3 pieces if pneumatic drill shaft, a 2 ft long
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