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I Forge Iron

Jarlberg

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    WV, USA
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    Knife making

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  1. That's for the info. I appreciate it. What would be the ideal sfm for fixed speed. Sort of a best compromise for both course grit and finer grit work? Around 2,000?
  2. Do any of you use a fixed speed AC setup on your 2x72's? As everyone predicted, I've run into motor problems with my DC treadmill build. I'm not exactly sure why the motor failed but it's likely do it being open and metal particles being introduced. I can see this happening over and over again and have begun to look into replacing with an sealed AC motor. I'm honestly thinking about going with a single phase 2hp motor and no VFD and keeping it single speed. I have a 4" drive wheel and would need to find the ideal sealed motor. Honestly I just can't afford to drop $650 on a VFD/motor setup. And I've found that I really don't vary the speed on the grinder much. Anyone use a fixed speed setup? Any suggestions on a economical sealed motor with a 5/8" arbor and an ideal time for a 4" drive wheel?
  3. Thanks for posting your grinder build. That's encouraging to see how well yours operates and tracks. Can you discuss the plastic shims you used? Does the plastic stay in their permanently or do you have to wedge it in each time you change belts? Without a belt in-place the riser has very minimal amount of movement. I will try cutting a strip of plastic from a milk jug and see but I don't think it would fit. Or maybe an aluminum shim from a strip cut out of a pop can. One thing I noticed is that my riser appears to be longer than yours. I cut mine to 13" just like it was mentioned in the plans I could try shortening it and compensating by extending the platen arm out from the vise. I still suspect it more of an alignment issue but I've been so busy I've not been able to sit down and retune it.
  4. Sorry about that. I overlooked the commercial link requirement. The manufacturer also lists all of their products on an auction sight where they include more information. They are definitely sold specifically with two crowned wheels in the set. The auction pictures are very clearly crowned. Regardless, I have some tweaking to do. Guess I could take the tracking wheel to a machinist and have them flatten it. But I'd rather use them as they are if I can correct the tracking through tuning the grinder.
  5. I'll have to measure the tension with the belt installed. It's a fair amount of effort to depress the tracking wheel. I would think it's close to 40 lbs. I'm still really surprised to hear that two crowned wheels are wrong. The ones I bought are shown here at grinder-2x72-wheel-section .Remove commercial link Origin Blade is one of the most popular grinder supply companies out there and all of their sets include crowned drive wheels and tracking wheels. And those kits are sold on eBay with near perfect reviews from thousands of purchasers. So ai don't think it's too uncommon to have two crowned wheels in a setup..
  6. It's 1/4" plate. The motor is bolted down on all 4 corners. Seems pretty solid and I can't see any flex or slippage.
  7. Really? Most of the wheels sets I see for sale have crowned drive wheels and tracking wheels in the same set. Including those from Origin Blade. Seems odd that they would sell complete sets like that if it wasn't an acceptable setup. As for the belt tension, it uses a 44lb compression spring inside the riser tube. To change belts you press down on the riser with the tracking wheel. Seems adequate but with this being my first grinder I don't have a feel for what the proper tension should be. The grinder is a very common design that many builders have used so its been battle tested by the knife making community. As for the rigidity, the grinder is build from 2" and 1.5" tubing that's .25" wall thickness and fully welded to a 12x24" .25" steel plate. It's very heavy. I don't think flex is an issue. It feels like a tank. I'll go back and read the sticky that was mentioned and see if I can learn anything. Maybe I'll get a laser out. Haha
  8. I've mostly completed my budget build except for a project box to house my controller and switches and some motor protection. I've run into a problem with the tracking. I bought a decent set of machined aluminum wheels. I've tried to be extra careful with alignments and although things appear to be aligned I'm still having tracking problems. Specifically inconsistency across multiple speed ranges. Meaning my tracking at wide open is different than my tracking at 50% speed. I'm not sure if this is normal or not as this is my first build. If I adjust the tracking to work in the mid ranges it will need readjusted at higher speeds. Typically as I increase speed the belt will tend to wander off the wheels and fly off unless uncorrected. Then when I tune for full speed the belt will move back toward the grinder and hit the tower arm when the speed is decreased. Its also inconsistent between belt types. If I tune for a Norton Blaze belt and then switch to a trizact belt the setting aren't correct. This may be normal but again I'm unsure. Lastly, I've noticed than if I really hog into a piece of steel the belt wants to wander off the platen. Anyone have any tips or advise on how to diagnose the tracking issues? I've used a square straight edge to try my best to get the wheels true. But obviously something is off.
  9. I'm in US. I have a few emails out to some suppliers in regards to 17mm drove wheels. There are some machinists around and I'll give them a shout and see what they can do. Otherwise I will get the file out and see what I can do. Yes the metal dust will be a problem. But I'll see what I can come up in terms of a filter system. I've seen a lot of people placing magnets all over their grinder in an attempt to intercept the metal particles. I could add those as well.
  10. I'm putting together my first 2x72 belt grinder build. Using the simplistic stacked tubing design with vertical compression belt adjuster. I sourced a 1.75hp DC motor from a treadmill as drive power for the time being. Can't really afford an AC motor with VFD at this moment. The DC motor works fine and the MC35 speed controller also works great. My problem is that after taking the flywheel off and measuring the arbor I found it to be 17mm (.669") instead of the standard 5/8" arbor. My intension was to purchase a machined aluminum wheel package to complete my build. Unfortunately it seems that 90% of all the drive wheels available are for 5/8". The other 10% is 3/4" drive. My thought was that maybe I would luck out and find a supplier that makes 17mm drive wheels. Or else maybe find a sleeve/shim that would allow me to use a 3/4" drive wheel on the 17mm arbor. Any ideas? I do not have the machining equipment to take off the required 44 thousandths to get the arbor down to 5/8". Guess I could go the risky route and use a file to decrease the arbor down during operation. But that's a stretch. Any ideas? Thanks.
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