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Showing results for tags 'knifemaking'.
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So I rarely post photos of my work as I'm pretty self critical and don't see much unique about my work making it worth posting. However I shot a few quick photos of some of the knives I still have here at the house while on lock down, and knowing how the group here loves photos, I thought I'd share a couple. Nothing spectacular, just wanted to show that I know a little bit about the trade. Here is a small (8" fighter), Joe Keesler inspired. Lousy photos, looks and feels better in real life. Here is a nice little paring knife that was inspired by an old knife my folks used to have in their kitchen drawer that I admired: How about a big bowie with hot blued, chased and filed mild steel fittings (~13" blade) Here is one with an integral bolster and thru tang loosely inspired by period side knives, with hand tooled sheath and forced patina: A large Bolo with integral guard and G10 & linen micarta handle:
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Hey everyone, As I'm in lockdown here down under for another month I recently decided to give blacksmithing a crack! Something I've always wanted to do but never had the time to. I've run into a lot of setbacks in my first 2 weeks or so and was hoping to get some advice on what I could do better / how to do things. I tried forging a knife from a billet of 1075 steel I purchased (dimensions 3.2 x 38 x 200mm (0.125 x 1.5 x 8″)). It is quite a thin piece and the idea was that I try draw out a tang and then go on to shape the rest of the blade (was aiming for a Tanto style blade). I'll provide pictures of what it ended up like but I initially began by just hitting a hammer directly downwards onto the metal and I believe that I created 'cold shuts' as the sides folded onto itself. I removed as much as I could with a file and read that to draw out metal, the hammer should hit the metal at an angle, so I started doing that (hitting the edge and then switching to the flat of the metal to prevent cold shuts). While I managed to draw the blade out a bit for the tang, the end is now completely destroyed. The edge of the bar where I worked it is quite thick but tapers to an extremely thin edge and an even thinner mid section (about 0.5mm /0.019685 inches or less). It was so thin I actually lost about 3cm of the bar as it was so thin I just snapped it off as it kept warping and folding whenever I struck the bar. I heated the bar up until orange however it would become a dull red in about 3-4 hits and I would have to put it back in the forge. Is the bar too thin to work with at 3.2mm or 0.125 inches? I currently am using a 3lbs machinist hammer / cross-peen hammer and my anvil is currently a flat mild steel bar attached securely to a roughly 20-25 kilo (44-55lbs) tree stump (proper anvil coming soon). I tried using both the flat face of the hammer and the cross-peen but it felt quite awkward to use the cross-peen, probably due to me doing it wrong. I'm guessing this bar is now a right off and I've got one more bar left and don't even want to touch it without having a bit more knowledge and practice. I would love any tips, advice or even how ya'll would work with the bar. Thanks in advance!
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so in socials i just dealt with the Alamo and James bowie so decided the project would be a bowie knife here is the draft of the knife will make with a piece of 3/8 leaf spring post more when have some done
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Hello I'm new to the whole knife making process and when I wached all the videos on knife making they always temper their knifes after quenching in an oven. And I currently don't have an oven and I wondered if its possible to temper a blade in a campfire forge and how hard would it be
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Hi guys! I've finished this knife quite a while back but never got around to edit the videos I took and post the photos here. I chose to go with 440C for a more maintenance friendly knife since I was going to be using it a lot. After using it for over a year, I'm very surprised and satisfied with the steel's performance. Good edge retention, easy to sharpen, does not scracth as easily as 5160, for example and didn't get a patina so far. Here is a video with most of the process I went though: https://youtu.be/ELHezsRhMa8 Let me know what you guys think and how I can improove on the process, geometry, heat treat, etc... Kydex stealth molding: Finished Knife and Stealth:
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Hi everyone, I'm new here. I'd like to jump in straight away with an issue I've been having for the last few weeks, and I'd like to request your feedback accordingly. I've started forging knives in my backyard since about a year now. I've been able to make about a dozen knives. I had to throw away a few, as they were mainly for practice in order to improve my skills. I Own a small propane forge (big enough for knives, too small for hammers), have a small anvil (15kg), and thoroughly enjoy the whack whack bit and the wood work finish for the handle. I do not own a proper belt grinder. I use files, a disc grinder and a small 300 rpm 910x100 mm belt grinder for the wood work. It's the finishing that I struggle with. Obviously I am not looking for a perfect shine, or a rediculously detailed finish (since I do not own a fancy belt grinder), though I'd like to be able to at least deliver a knife of which I can be happy with and cut things properly with. Until know, only one of my knives " sorta" fits here. While creating my most recent knife (see attachment) I was able to create proper bevels, and with it made my first hidden tang knife. Though achieving those bevels with lots of effort, sweat, and profanity, its achievement only feels minor compared to my thrive to improve. The biggest struggle is the sharpening. none of my knives cut properly (which is kinda their purpose), no matter what I do. I've been trying a converted bench grinder (MDF sharpening disc setup I found on youtube somewhere), sharpening stones, a kitchen knife sharpening rod, a buffing wheel, bench grinder stones, and in a whiff of dispair even one of those grindy things people use to sharpen their scizzors with. My hours of research browsing through forums have led to unsatisfying results. I am kind of lost here. Finishing my knives towards a final product loses its charm quite quickly, especially now I ruined my most recent knife (see att) desperately trying to sharpen the thing. the corresponding failures keep me from buying a proper belt grinder or expensive sharpening equipment, since I am honestly afraid to lose interest once the failures keep outweighing the achievements. Additionally, forging and finishing equipment is hard to come by in my country, whereas the investment is considerable when I'm going to up my game, and I'm not even sure if buying better equipment will do the trick in the first place. Am I being too ambitious, impatient, unskilled? I don't know. I can only find videos online of either very basic "how to use a hammer and coal" kinda videos or horribly complicating projects of people with years of experience which I one day hope to even come close to. I cannot seem to find anything that can help me proceed. This is where I'd like to ask for your expertise. Did you reach a point where I am now? How did you deal with it? any tips and tricks? let me know. thanks in advance!
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Here is an interpretation of the Musso Bowie. Completed 11-12-2017 -
This is a Hunter for a Fire Department Chief to commemorate his 20 years of service as a Fire Chief. -
so as a newbie if i was to go and try to forge a knife out of a leaf spring- after checking for cracks in the stock- what is the worst that could happen if i "forged it wrong" i really know nothing about this so please let me know what i am dealing with. cracking? shattering? also if this is already discussed in another thread then pls redirect me. thanks in advance i dont really care if my knife stinks, but what are the dangers of breaking etc.
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Hello all I am very interested in getting into bladesmithing and even posted a discussion awhile back about information on constructing a side draft forge but I have had an unfortunate lack of funds to do so. My current situationhas made me rethink my starter forge design. Since I still need to learn the hammering and heating techniques as well as heat treating I was looking for some info on brake drum forges and the pros and cons of using them as far as functionality I am mainly going to start out making knives. Any information and help would be appreciated. I know I intend to use a solid fuel forge probably making my own charcoal as well.
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5160 Hunter. Heat colored double guard and aged collar. Stabilized spalted Birch wood handle. -
336 Layer, Random pattern Damascus Hunter for Eddie Farms in Grandview WA Heat colored fittings, with Apple themed engraving on both collar, and buttplate. -
Damascus investment piece for a local orchard owner. -
9 7/8", 5160 blade. 15 1/4" O.A.L. Crusades Dagger. This is elegance at its finest ! -
I'm thinking about converting my Central Machinery (harbor freight) 6X48 belt sander into a 2X72 grinder. I think the motor is on its last leg because it's bogging down much faster than I remember, and I know there's a lot of work involved, but I don't have much money for the darn thing because I fund my shop through part time shop sales. I don't exactly know where to start on this project, but I figure y'all are the best group of people to ask. Seems like a bunch of you have done home-built 2X72 jobs, and I really think the conversion would increase my productivity and allow me to work to my fullest potential. What are your thoughts? Is this project going to be more expensive than it's worth, considering the crappy quality of Harbor Freight tools? Is there an economical way to do a weld-free build? (I don't have a welder). Any and all advice is welcome. -
Hello, and greetings from Greeley Colorado! My name's Ryan, and I've been making knives for about 13 years using purely stock removal methods, but got into blacksmithing about 6 years ago and learned most of what I know from reading books and experimentation. I'd love to get involved with a group of other knifemakers and/or smiths in the area for a hammer-in or just to work on some projects together. I like teaching what I know, as well as learning from more experienced hands so whether you're a "newbie" looking to learn from someone who's walked that road, or an old hat willing to share your knowledge, I'd love to meet up and beat some steel!
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This was the last knife I made for the 2014 year. This is a special piece because it is the first that I made using a handle material that I have long thought of, and finally made. This is a natural material that I resin treated, and then stabilized. This piece has a 96 layer, random pattern Damascus blade, Heat colored 304 stainless fittings, and stabilized horse manure, or Pasturewood handle. Yes, I said horse manure. -
Forged 5160 Utility. 4 1/2" blade, 9 1/2" overall length. This knife has stabilized Koa scales, and heat colored 304 stainless bolsters. -
September 2014 marked my 18th year in knifemaking. To celebrate I made something not from the normal. This is a Damascus "Steampunk" The handle has on both sides, fully functional gears. This was a great challenge, and super fun to make. -
Hey guys, I'm a newbie, but Theo Rock Nazz is NOT. Check out this video I did of him when he was heat-treating a blade I've seen him craft for months. It's at night in his own forge in the snow, it's kind of badass but not as much as he. Watch him and the energy he puts into his art, listen to the commentary he gives:
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4 3/8" Forged 5160 drop point utility hunter. Heat colored 304 Stainless guard, stabilized Birdseye Maple handle. It's home is Toronto Canada. -
4 5/8" Utility Hunter forged from 5160 carbon steel. The guard and collar are heat colored stainless. Handle material is stabilized Poplar wood. This is a knife for a client in Alaska. -
5 1/4" Brut De Forge knife forged from a Nicholson Farriers Rasp. -
Completed April 2, 2014 -
This is the set of knives that will be presented to the American Bladesmith Society judging board in San Antonio Texas on January 25, 2014. These knives are being judged for my advancement to Journeyman Smith. Each Knife is forged from 5160 carbon steel. Handle material varies between cocobolo wood and stabilized Koa. The guards are 416 stainless steel. The knife pictured at bottom is the performance knife. It passed all testing including the 90 degree flex test and did not crack ! The handle material is Blue G-10. I began making knives in September of 1996. The gentleman responsible for getting me started along is Billy Jo Brown of Live Oak Fla. His work at the time was simply astonishing to me at the age of only 16, and to see the process of making such a tool and forging it from a coil spring was enough to set the hook. These many years later I decided to take the steps and met my requirements to be judged for Journeyman Smith by the A.B.S. The days now I look back at my younger years and my early efforts in knifemaking and just have to smile. It's been a long road leading to this, but for all the knifemkers that I have met and the interesting projects I've done I must say that I wouldn't trade it for anything. Thank you Billy Jo Brown for setting the hook, Joel Stuart for his advise and help in my beginnings, he will be missed ! Randy Spanjer, John Davis, Gary House, Ed Schempp, and especially Tommy Morris for your friendship over the years.
